Des membres recréent l\'ascension de Bugaboo Spire

The Alpine Club of Canada  |  Le Club Alpin du Canada

Vol. 31,  No. 3 Winter | hiver 2016

ACCers re-create Kain’s 1916 Bugaboo Spire ascent Des membres recréent

l’ascension de Bugaboo Spire

publication

# 40009034

pages 6 – 9

To bring together, and give voice to, Canada’s mountaineering community.  |  Tous ensemble, bien représenter et faire apprécier la communauté canadienne des amateurs de montagne.

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What’s Inside... Adventures

Alpine Start: It comes down fast Des membres recréent l’ascension de Bugaboo Spire 14 Members visit Druk Yul—Land of the Thunder Dragon 18 Mont Blanc Massif delivers Royal Traverse 24 Camp a mountaineer makes

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Climbing Rocks! ACC crew digs into some dirt Programme de bourses du CAC ACC Grants Program

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Short Rope Members saddened by Smith’s passing Member conceives Vancouver Island Spine Trail Nominate a Volunteer Les chefs d’expédition qualifiés ont besoin de vous! Nommez un bénévole Donations help grow skilled trip leaders Open Air Classified ads and notices

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Cover photo / photo de couverture: Garry Reiss leads the team in his 1916-era hobnail boots up the Kain route on Bugaboo Spire, Snowpatch Spire to the left. Garry Reiss, en bottes cloutées façon 1916, mène l’équipe sur la route Kain du mont Bugaboo Spire, le Snowpatch Spire visible à gauche.  Photo: Ivan Petrov Left / À gauche: Team members hike the approach to the Bugaboos’ Applebee Dome Camp.  L’équipe s’approchent du camp Applebee Dome des Bugaboos.  Photo: Ivan Petrov Article: pages 6 – 9.

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Lynn wades through a very chilly creek in Kananaskis Country, Canadian Rockies.  photo: John McIsaac

Short Rope by Lynn

Martel

“I climb harder not for external recognition, although that can be nice, but because it’s fun to climb harder. Because climbing isn’t about getting to the top by the easiest route, it’s about climbing harder, cooler, wilder, more intense lines.”

T

hese words were written in a Facebook post by Canmore, Alberta’s Will Gadd, in response to an article pondering the value of climbing grades. Indeed, Gadd has spent his life pushing himself to climb—and fly his paraglider and paddle his kayak—harder,

faster and farther in some really cool places, including his own backyard. Along the way he’s inspired many. Of course, Gadd was speaking to his own motivation. As Alpine Club of Canada members, we pursue climbing adventures for as many different personal reasons and motivations as there are rocks on a scree slope. In their most practical sense, climbing grades alert the climber to the expected difficulty of a route. While a 5.12 rat‑ ing might serve as a mouth-watering enticement to some, it will be viewed as the equivalent of a skull and crossbones to at least as many others. For plenty of climbers, the act of moving on rock, ice, alpine slopes or polished boulders ignites a desire to try harder, to push personal limits. For many others (especially the 50+ crowd) the simple act of clipping bolts on a 5.8 or hiking to a modest sum‑ mit is sufficiently fulfilling without any further ambitions. Either way, it’s tough not to be excited about 23-year-old German phenom Alex Megos establishing Canada’s first 5.15 rock climb in August. The route, which he named Fightclub, is on Raven Crag, a mainly overhanging cliff of blue-streaked limestone near the Banff town site. Located within Canada’s first national park, and just above a protected wildlife corridor, the route also has a very

Canadian—from Megos’ European per‑ spective—approach, a “long” 45-minute uphill hike. From Squamish to Newfoundland to the Yukon, Canadians are blessed. We’ve got huge glaciated mountains, soaring cliffs, spectacular frozen waterfalls, Rockies choss and Baffin Island granite. We’ve got crags where you can practically belay from your tailgate, and remote giant peaks that require two days of rough forestry road driving followed by off-trail hiking with a multi-day pack just to see the mountain. We have state-of-the-art climbing gyms in the hippest of cities, and remote undeveloped landscapes that support the grizzly bears, wolves, wolverines and other wildlife that make Canada’s wild places the envy of more populated countries. In this issue, from the Bugaboos to Bhutan, to Mont Blanc, Fairy Meadow and Vancouver Island, you’ll read about ACC members exploring their ideal mountain environments and pushing themselves on long-dreamed of alp‑ ine challenges. Like ACC ambassador Nancy Hansen writes in this issue’s Open Air, mountain landscapes unite people and build a common bridge. And when it comes to climbing, Canadians have immeasurable riches to be proud of, and to share, at every grade.

Members saddened by Smith’s passing by Lynn

A

Martel

lpine Alpine Club of Canada members and the greater climb‑ ing community were saddened to learn of the passing of Canmore, Alberta’s Anna Smith, who died unexpectedly in her sleep while on expedition in the Indian Himalaya. Her climbing partner, Alison Criscitiello bravely worked with Indian officials and others to recover her body for repatriation. Smith and Criscitiello were awarded the ACC administered John Lauchlan Memorial Award to help support their expedition. Previously, Smith received the ACC’s Jen Higgins Memorial Fund for her expedition to Baffin Island in July 4  The Alpine Club of Canada

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2015 with Michelle Kadatz. They sum‑ mited two Baffin big walls, each in less than 24 hours, making only the second free ascent, and first all-female ascent of Mount Loki’s South Buttresses route, which Smith wrote about in the Spring 2016 Gazette. Well-known for her raucous belly laugh and bold determination while climbing cutting edge rock, ice and mixed routes, Smith, 31 was loved for her infec‑ tious energy and unbridled enthusiasm for adventure. At her family’s request, anyone wishing to remember her is encouraged to make a donation in her memory to

Anna Smith reflects during her Baffin Island expedition in 2015.  photo: Michelle K adatz

The Alpine Club of Canada. The ACC’s thoughts are with Smith’s family and friends.

Alpine Start: It comes down fast by Jeff

A

Bullock

s I walk through subalpine forest with its twisted golden larch trees and lofty peaks, new snow and cool north wind bring me to feel a changing perception and personality in mountains I know so well. The thin layer of snow draped over the ground cam‑ ouflages the surface, but also highlights lumps of trees and humps of rocks and boulders. This might become the base to this year’s snowpack, I think, and poten‑ tially this unassuming beautiful snowfall may become responsible for avalanches. Not thinking too much about it, I carry on up and through the pass. Is September too early to begin processing information? No. Is May late enough to forget about the snowpack and its deadly potential? No. Reflecting on years past, the ones that really stand out in my memory are those of either steep successful ski days or the scary really, really close calls. What are the reoccurring thought processes and/or snowpack character‑ istics? Human factors are maybe the more important details; clearly if we truly understood the snowpack and our place on it, accidents wouldn’t happen. As a professional I feel complacency or overconfidence plays a big part in near hit scenarios. For a recreational rider there may be many small details missed or mis‑ understood. But this does go for pros too! Persistent weak layers (PWLs) com‑ prise a variety of layers depending on the evolution of the snowpack, and they pose a very serious problem. These layers, as their name suggests, persist for long per‑ iods of time, allowing humans to become complacent or overconfident. Haven’t seen anything run on that Nov. 15 rain crust in a long time? It’s buried down 1.5 to 2 metres and is only at treeline eleva‑ tions and below. Well, how do we know if it is where we are? We dig a pit. That gives us very good information about the layers because we see them, feel them and can do some advanced tests, which maybe we understand, sometimes not. But is it realistic to dig two metres down, and where we think the layer may be? Well, truly it becomes a guessing game, which takes time and may give us a false sense of security if we don’t happen to find the suspect layer(s).

ACMG ski guides Kate Devine (left) and Corin Lohmann dig a pit to gain snowpack info. 

What’s a quick solution to PWL locations? Read the avalanche bulletin! The pros behind the Avalanche Canada public bulletins at www.avalanche.ca have our best interest in mind. They use ongoing snowpack analysis and informa‑ tion sharing drawn from a huge network and pull this together for a summarized to-the-point guideline. If there are PWLs or any other concerns the bulletins will talk about them. In our packs we have many tools available. I use my avalanche probe for quick hit reference of layers often, two to four times a day on average. It gives super quick deep analysis, takes 30 seconds and can be done at multiple locations. When it gives us positive feedback—yes, there is the Nov. 15 ice layer two metres down— now what? Avoid steep long slopes with high consequence run out zones. That’s not complicated until you throw in a few

photo: Lynn Martel

opinions and some ego! Where do we go from here? As a guide, decisions are ultimately up to me. As a group of friends, you may find your‑ selves in an uncomfortable situation. Start to think about your own risk tolerance and where you start to feel uncomfortable about a decision. Have an honest up front conversation with your friends about the objective for the day, the objective hazards and where the line should be drawn. Be sure to implement use of other techniques, such as the very simple action of spacing out across a slope. Remember, knowledge is power in the hills in so many ways. Become educated, speak with experienced people, check the bulletin, get out there and never be afraid to say NO. The mountains are not going anywhere, and you can always come back. ACMG Mountain Guide Jeff Bullock runs www.alpineairadventures.com.

Don’t miss the next

I K S TERY T O L

APRIL

2017

draw for Fairy Meadow and Kokanee Glacier Le Club Alpin du Canada

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In the story of Canadian mountain guiding, Conrad Kain earned the highest respect not only as leader of the most difficult ascents of his day, which he accomplished while leading clients, but also as a kind and gentle lover of nature, as shared in his biography Where the Clouds Can Go. Kain is credited with more than 60 first ascents and new routes in the Canadian Rockies and B.C.’s Purcell Range, and 25 first ascents over three seasons in New Zealand. His ascent of 3,204-metre Bugaboo Spire in 1916, among the most demanding climbs of the era, continues to inspire, as it did for a group of Alpine Club of Canada members this summer. —Ed.

ACCers re-create Kain’s 1916 Bugaboo Spire ascent story and photos by Ivan

C

Petrov

limbing Bugaboo Spire in the centennial year of its first ascent in century-old climbing gear is a project like no other! In July, this bold objective was tackled by four Alpine Club of Canada Toronto Section members—Rob LeBlanc, Natalia Danalachi, Garry Reiss and Bryan Thompson, who were supported by Josée Duckett, Greg Gransden, Ivan Petrov and David Ray. In this unique Canadian alp‑ ine project, the team came as close as was possible to experiencing what Conrad Kain’s expedition into British Columbia’s Bugaboos would have been like in 1916. To get off on the right foot, four rep‑ lica pairs of hobnail boots with tricouni edge nails similar to those worn by Kain in 1916 were custom ordered from New Zealand. Additional gear included four vintage mountaineering axes and a replica

Bryan Thompson cooks a highly anticipated goat stew on a century-old kerosene stove at Applebee Dome Camp.  |  Bryan Thompson prépare un ragoût de chèvre fort attendu sur un réchaud de kérosène centenaire au camp Applebee Dome.

hemp rope. Finally, thanks to a wealth of archival photographs and abundance of second-hand stores, the team was able to outfit themselves with full sets of per‑ iod clothes. After months of planning and gath‑ ering provisions, our team assembled in Wilmer, B.C., a hamlet nestled between the Kootenay and Purcell Mountains. It was in Wilmer that Conrad Kain estab‑ lished his Canadian home after arriving from Austria to work as the ACC’s first professional mountain guide. Today, his legacy is kept alive by a highly dedicated group of Conrad Kain Centennial Society volunteers, who hosted us with a very warm welcome. On July 8, we arrived in Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park. Having to carry multiple loads of both vintage and mod‑ ern clothing and equipment, camping gear, provisions, photography and video cameras, we endured a gruelling approach hike. A very rough estimate put our collective eight-person weight load at 1,000 pounds! A re-created 1916 base camp at Applebee Dome, perched high above the ACC’s Kain Hut, was a major project in itself—a heavy canvas tent supported with a long wooden pole, laid out with a four-person bed of spruce branches hauled from outside of the Bugaboo Park boundary. Each climber was allowed only two wool blankets to sleep on. The backcountry kitchen consisted of a hun‑ dred-year-old kerosene stove, kettle, pots, pans and a few mess kits. The camp menu included pheasant, pork and beans, pea soup, goat stew and NabWald Schmarren breakfast—foods that would have been available to Kain. By July 10, we enjoyed our first win‑ dow of promising weather. For our first summit attempt we woke up at 3:30 a.m. for an alpine start, allowing ourselves extra time due to inexperience with century-old mountaineering axes and hobnail boots, as well as our plans to photograph and film the ascent. Blessed

with a picture-perfect day, we experienced full views of the towering granite spires of the Bugaboos and appreciated a great vantage point to study the magnificent Howser Towers that Kain summited a few days prior to Bugaboo Spire. Climbing with hobnails was an experience unlike any other; the boots performed quite well on steep snow of Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col, but did not have nearly as much grip on rock. Morning frost and lichen patches added to the challenge of finding stable footing. The hemp rope was used on the less tech‑ nical pitches of the ridge. Modern ropes, helmets and protective gear were used near the summit to ensure safety of all climbers. For the first attempt, the team also included a Bugaboos devotee, ACMG Mountain Guide Tim McAllister. Shortly after 1 p.m. the decision was made to turn back in light of developing thunderstorm clouds. Over the next few days, intermittent showers and overcast skies forced us to stay put and explore the nearby Eastpost Spire and Crescent Towers. To our delight, another summit attempt became possible on July 14. We made good time and reached the top of Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col by 9 a.m.—the exact same time that Kain would have stood there on August 29, 1916 on his way to the summit. Encouraged by this coincidence and by clear skies, the team pushed on, looking more and more confi‑ dent in their hobnail boots. As we approached the decisive point of the climb—the gendarme—four of us made a decision to stay back in the face of more exposed pitches, letting a faster small party proceed to the summit. In 1916, it took Kain almost two hours to navigate around the gendarme! Led by highly skilled support team member David Ray, Natalia Danalachi and Rob LeBlanc tackled the crux of the climb and successfully attained the sum‑ mit of Bugaboo Spire at approximately 12:50 p.m. Standing on the summit

dressed in fine 1916 fashion, they bore close resemblance to Albert and Bess MacCarthy—two equally strong moun‑ taineers on Kain’s first ascent party who went on to scale many more peaks on their own and with Kain, with whom they remained life-long friends. With the added challenges of heavy gear, unexpected cold dinners and a mis‑ erable rainy night, our team gained full appreciation of what Kain’s expedition had achieved. Unbelievable endurance, courage and determination would have been required to summit Bugaboo Spire in 1916. Perhaps it is no surprise that to our knowledge no similar re-enactments have ever been attempted in North America. In essence, by undertaking the Bugaboo Spire Centennial Climb Project we achieved a first ascent of our own. As fellow mountaineers of the ACC, working through similar challenges one hundred years later, we too formed a strong friendship. Don’t miss a special exhibition of photographs from the

The 1916 re-enactment climbers (from left) Garry Reiss, Natalia Danalachi, Robert LeBlanc and Bryan Thompson retrace Conrad Kain’s first ascent route.  |  De la gauche : les grimpeurs de la reconstitution de 1916 Garry Reiss, Natalia Danalachi, Robert LeBlanc et Bryan Thompson refont l’itinéraire de la première ascenscion de Conrad Kain. 

project on display at the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies in Banff from November 23, 2016 to January 29, 2017. Follow our project and film announce‑ ments visit our Facebook / Instagram / Twitter: @hobnailsandhemp. And learn Secured by a replica 100-foot hemp rope tied around their waists, Bryan Thompson, Natalia Danalachi and Robert LeBlanc ascend the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire. | Protégés par 100 pieds d’une imitation de corde de chanvre attachée à leurs tailles, Bryan Thompson, Natalia Danalachi et Robert LeBlanc gravissent la route Kain du mont Bugaboo Spire.

more at http://conradkain.com. Team members: Bryan Thompson, Robert Le Blanc, Natalia Danalachi and Garry Reiss (Toronto Section), climbers; Greg Gransden (Toronto) film director, producer, cameraman; Ivan Petrov (Ottawa) cameraman, project publicist; David Ray (Vancouver Section) lead climber, camera support; Josée Duckett (Toronto) load carrying support, base camp/kitchen manager. The Bugaboos Spire Centennial Project, with support from the Canadian Geographical Society, included production of a 25-minute documentary film titled Hobnails and Hemp Rope. The team is actively seeking opportunities to screen the film and host talks/presentations across Canada. For more info or to donate to the project, contact Ivan Petrov at [email protected].

Glen Boles THE ALPINE ARTIST

glenboles.com | (403) 932-3702

Limited edition signed prints: • 18” x 24” Giclée on canvas for $340 • Small pen & pencil prints start at $25 • Large pen & pencil prints are $60 each or $50 for multiples. Other sizes available, check website. Le Club Alpin du Canada

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Dans l’histoire canadienne du guidage de montagne, Conrad Kain inspirait le plus grand respect, non seulement en tant que leader des ascensions les plus difficiles de son époque, qu’il accomplissait en guidant des clients, mais aussi comme un amoureux de la nature bon et doux, tel qu’exprimé dans sa biographie, Where the Clouds Can Go. Plus de 60 premières ascensions et nouvelles routes lui sont attribuées dans les Rocheuses canadiennes et la chaîne Purcell en Colombie-Britannique, et 25 premières ascensions en trois saisons en Nouvelle-Zélande. Son ascension des 3204 mètres du mont Bugaboo Spire en 1916, parmi les plus exigeantes de l’époque, continue d’inspirer, comme l’a prouvé un groupe de membres du Club alpin du Canada cet été. —Éd.

Des membres recréent l’ascension de Bugaboo Spire article et photos par Ivan

E

Petrov

scalader Bugaboo Spire pour l’année du centenaire de sa première ascension avec de l’équi‑ pement vieux d’un siècle est un projet sans équivalent! En juillet, quatre membres de la sec‑ tion de Toronto du Club alpin du Canada s’attaquaient à cet objectif ambitieux — Rob Le Blanc, Natalia Danalachi, Garry Reiss et Bryan Thompson, avec le soutien de Josée Duckett, Greg Gransden, Ivan Petrov et David Ray. Au cours de ce pro‑ jet canadien alpin unique, l’expérience de l’équipe s’est rapprochée le plus possible de ce qu’aurait été l’expédition de Conrad Kain dans les Bugaboos de ColombieBritannique en 1916. Pour partir du bon pied, quatre répliques de paires de bottes à semelles à

Expedition leader Bryan Thompson stands next to the team’s old canvas tent at Applebee Dome Camp hoping for good weather.  |  Le chef d’expédition Bryan Thompson, près de la vieille tente de toile du camp Applebee Dome, espère une météo favorable.

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clous Tricouni, similaires à celles portées par Kain en 1916 furent spécialement commandées de Nouvelle-Zélande. L’équipement additionnel comprenait quatre piolets d’époque et une réplique de corde de chanvre. Enfin, grâce à une abondance de photos d’archives et de magasins d’articles d’occasion, le groupe est parvenu à s’équiper avec des tenues complètes de vêtements d’époque. Après des mois de planification et d’approvisionnement, notre équipe se réunit à Wilmer, B.C., hameau niché entre les monts Kootenay et Purcell. C’est à Wilmer que Conrad Kain avait établi son foyer canadien après être arrivé d’Autriche pour travailler comme le premier guide de montagne professionnel du CAC. Aujourd’hui, son héritage est gardé en vie par les bénévoles hautement dévoués de la Conrad Kain Centennial Society, qui nous ont accueillis des plus chaleureusement. Nous sommes arrivés le 8 juillet au parc provincial Bugaboo Glacier. Ayant à transporter plusieurs charges d’équipe‑ ment et de vêtements (à la fois vintage et modernes), ainsi que de matériel de camping, de provisions, de matériel photographique et des caméras vidéo, il fallut endurer une randonnée d’ap‑ proche éreintante. Une estimation très approximative élevait le poids de notre charge collective, pour huit personnes, à plus de 450 kilos! Un camp de base de 1916 recréé au Applebee Dome, perché au-dessus du refuge Kain du CAC, était un grand projet en lui-même : une tente de toile lourde soutenue avec une longue perche de bois, aménagée avec un lit pour quatre personnes, fait de branches d’épinette transportées de l’extérieur de la frontière du parc Bugaboo. Chaque grimpeur n’avait le droit qu’à deux couvertures de laine pour dormir. L’équipement de cuisine consistait en un poêle de kérosène centenaire, une bouilloire, des chaudrons, des casseroles ainsi que quelques gamelles.

Le menu du camp incluait du faisan, du porc et des haricots, de la soupe aux pois, du ragoût de chèvre et des déjeuners NabWald Schmarren — des aliments que Kain aurait eus à sa disposition. Le 10 juillet nous a fait profiter d’une première fenêtre météo prometteuse. Pour notre première tentative au sommet, nous nous sommes réveillés à 3 h 30 du matin pour un démarrage alpin, nous accordant du temps additionnel compte tenu de notre inexpérience avec les piolets et les bottes cloutées centenaires et de notre intention de filmer et photograph‑ ier l’ascension. Bénis par une journée visuellement parfaite, nous avons pu pleinement apprécier les imposantes tours granitiques des Bugaboos et pro‑ fiter de la vue excellente pour étudier les magnifiques Howser Towers que Kain avait gravies quelques jours avant Bugaboo Spire. Grimper avec des chaussures à clous était une expérience incomparable; les bottes performaient plutôt bien sur la neige escarpée du Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col, mais étaient loin d’adhérer aussi bien sur la pierre. Le gel du matin et les plaques de lichen ajoutaient au défi d’assurer son équilibre. La corde de chanvre fut utilisée sur les parties moins techniques de la crête. Les cordes, les casques et l’équipement de protection modernes furent utilisés près du som‑ met pour assurer la sécurité de tous les grimpeurs. Pour la première tentative, l’équipe incluait aussi un passionné des Bugaboos, le guide de montagne AGMC Tim McAllister. Peu après 13 heures, la formation de nuages orageux nous décidait de faire demi-tour. Les jours suivants, des averses intermittentes et un ciel couvert nous ont forcés à rester sur place et explorer les Eastpost Spire et Croissant-Towers à proximité. Pour notre ravissement, une autre tentative d’ascension devint possible le 14 juillet. En commençant tôt, nous

avions atteint le dessus du BugabooSnowpatch Col dès 9 heures — la même heure à laquelle Kain s’y serait trouvé le 29 aout 1916, en chemin vers le sommet. Encouragée par cette coïncidence et par le ciel dégagé, l’équipe s’est poussée à continuer, de plus en plus assurée sur ses bottes à clous. Comme nous approchions le point décisif de la montée — le gendarme —, quatre d’entre nous ont décidé de rester en arrière face aux hauteurs plus exposées, laissant procéder un petit groupe plus rapide jusqu’au sommet. En 1916, il avait fallu presque deux heures à Kain pour frayer son chemin autour du gendarme! Dirigés par le membre hautement qualifié de l’équipe de soutien David Ray, Natalia Danalachi et Rob Le Blanc attaquèrent le point crucial de l’ascension pour atteindre le sommet de Bugaboo Spire avec succès à 12 h 50 environ. Debout sur le sommet et bellement vêtus à la mode de 1916, ils avaient une proche ressemblance avec Albert et Bess MacCarthy — deux alpinistes également forts qui étaient de l’équipage de Kain à la première ascension, et qui continu‑ eraient d’escalader beaucoup de sommets par eux-mêmes et avec Kain, de qui ils resteraient des amis pour la vie. Avec les épreuves ajoutées de l’équi‑ pement lourd, de la froideur inattendue de la nourriture et d’une nuit lament‑ ablement pluvieuse, notre équipe a pu apprécier pleinement ce que l’expédition de Kain avait accompli. Il avait fallu une endurance, un courage et une déter‑ mination incroyables pour arriver au faîte de Bugaboo Spire en 1916. Alors il

Hobnails and Hemp Rope film director and producer Greg Gransden documents Robert LeBlanc and Garry Reiss hiking the Bugaboos’ approach trail.  |  Greg Gransden, réalisateur et producteur du film « Hobnails and Hemp Rope », documente la randonnée d’approche de Robert LeBlanc et Garry Reiss vers les Bugaboos.

n’est peut-être pas surprenant qu’à notre connaissance, aucune reconstitution de ce genre n’ait été tentée en Amérique du Nord. En substance, entreprendre le projet Climb Bugaboo Spire Centennial, nous avons accompli une première ascen‑ sion bien à nous. En tant que compagnons d’alpinisme du CAC ayant affronté des défis sim‑ ilaires cent années plus tard, nous avons nous aussi formé une solide amitié. Ne manquez pas l’exposition de photog‑ raphies tirées du projet qui aura lieu au Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies de Banff, du 23 novembre 2016 au 29 janvier 2017. Suivez les annonces de notre projet et de son film en consultant nos pages Facebook / Instagram / Twitter : @hobnailsandhemp, et apprenez-en davantage à http://conradkain.com. Les membres de l’équipe :  Bryan Thompson, Robert Le Blanc, Natalia

Danalachi et Garry Reiss (section Toronto), grimpeurs; Greg Gransden (Toronto) réalisateur, producteur et cameraman; Ivan Petrov (Ottawa) cameraman et publicitaire du projet; David Ray (section Vancouver) grimpeur principal et support de caméra; Josée Duckett (Toronto) support de charge, gérante camp de base et cuisine. Le Bugaboo Spire Centennial Project, avec le soutien de la Société géographique royale du Canada, a inclus la production d’un courtmétrage documentaire de 25 minutes intitulé Hobnails and Hemp Rope. L’équipe cherche activement des occa‑ sions de présenter le film et d’animer des discussions à travers le Canada. Pour en savoir plus ou pour faire des dons au projet, contacter Ivan Petrov à [email protected].

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Le Club Alpin du Canada

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Climbing Rocks! by

Greg Ashcroft

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or me, climbing isn’t just a sport or a pastime. It’s a lifestyle, a culture, a classroom. My journey began two years ago at the University of Manitoba bouldering wall in Winnipeg. At the time, climbing was another physical activity to add to my routine. Now, climbing has become so much more. Climbing provides me a direct oppor‑ tunity for self-improvement. Physically, I discovered muscles I never knew I had, and I built strength and grace in movement. Mentally, climbing pushed me outside my comfort zone and created an environment where I felt fear, but learnt trust, perseverance, courage, joy and accomplishment. I will never forget my first time Greg Ashcroft improves his climbing skills on Funarama Crag at Squamish, B.C.’s Little Smoke Bluffs.  photo: Chantal Perron

top-roping in April 2015, climbing 10 metres with an auto-belay, palms sweat‑ ing fiercely. I was terrified of the height and haunted by the thought of plum‑ meting to the ground. So I stopped and asked myself, “Why am I doing this?” At the time I couldn’t find an answer, prob‑ ably because I was reeling in disbelief of what I was doing. After my head stopped spinning I settled on the only logical conclusion: climb on. I swallowed my fear and with my limbs feeling the rush of adrenaline, I reached up. Eventually made it to the top and took a moment to enjoy my accomplishment. I share this story with people who argue they can’t climb because of fear or lack of strength. Fear is a basic human response designed to keep us safe. Everyone feels it. I felt it and feel it. The important thing is to work through it, and not allow it to control you. Like strength, courage can be developed. If you remain persistent it is possible to over‑ come the mental and physical limits we set for ourselves. Climbing nourishes our fortitude and provides an environment that allows us to develop our strengths and overcome our weaknesses. It’s amazing what I have accom‑ plished and experienced through climbing. In July 2015, I went on my first outdoor climbing trip with The Alpine Club of Canada Manitoba Section to Jones Road, a crag north of Kenora, Ontario. I feel that’s when my climbing “career” truly began. After watching our trip leader place gear into the cliff ’s small awkward cracks and crevices, as he climbed I was inspired to learn trad‑ itional (trad) climbing. With a whole new tool box, I could climb safely and explore new areas. With trad climbing, you not only take the sharp end of the rope; you have to trust your gear, your abilities, make tough decisions in the moment and work with what you have. Driven by this newfound passion I returned to the gym to improve my climbing strength, abilities and know‑ ledge. The following year I onsighted trad routes graded 5.8. With each Club trip I grew a new appreciation for the outdoors and continued to explore the area’s multi‑ tude of crags. These trips also allowed me to discover a new community of outdoor

adventurers, enthusiasts and, of course, climbers. Ultimately, climbing has provided me the opportunity to create lasting friendships. It has created an environ‑ ment where another’s success is as valued as my own. It is where I learnt a deeper meaning of trust. As climbers, the rope represents a connection between two individuals, our lives literally held by this 10 millimetre-thick medium. We have to trust that our partners are capable and willing of being there if we fall. In winter 2016, I tasted my first ice climbing at Saint-Boniface’s tower. With crampons on my feet I slammed my axes into the towering ice wall while -30°C winds ripped into my face. The ice suc‑ cumbed to my assault and crashed to the ground. Later that summer I visited Squamish, B.C., twice, first for the Arc’tyerx climb‑ ing academy where I worked on my trad climbing skills taught by Will Stanhope and Hannah Preston, and I experienced the West Coast through climber’s eyes. In August I returned to Squamish, and also climbed at Skaha Bluffs near Penticton, B.C., and in Alberta at the Back of the Lake in Lake Louise, and Canmore’s Grassi Lakes. I have always loved trav‑ elling and experiencing new things; it’s wonderful that climbing helps fulfill this desire. Climbing has become so much more than the sum of its parts. With each climb or new adventure, I experience an opportunity to grow, to learn, to fail and to be a part of something bigger. ACC member Greg Ashcroft belongs to both the Manitoba and Saint Boniface sections. He’s aiming to climb 5.12, WI4 and begin alpine climbing.

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Member conceives Vancouver Island Spine Trail by

Andy Ogle

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lpine Club of Canada Life Member Gil Parker wasn’t on any spiritual quest when he walked most of the 4,300-kilometre Pacific Crest Trail between 1999 and 2004. But he did have a vision! Why not, he thought, create a similar long-distance trail on Vancouver Island from his home in Victoria to Cape Scott on its north‑ ern tip? Fast forward a dozen years, and his vision has become the Vancouver Island Spine Trail. The name came from Parker’s initial stab at drawing a line of the “spine” of the island, linking existing trails with new sections to create a 700-kilometre backcountry route. By 2009, Parker and some fellow hikers had come together to create the Vancouver Island Spine Trail Association (VISTA), with a Board that I joined two years later. In 2010, Parker and ACC member Andrew Pape-Salmon organized a relay that saw Andrew lead a handful of hardy runners, horseback riders and cyclists to complete much of the route. (Planned as a non-motorized trail, parts of it will be accessible to cyclists and equestrians as well as hikers.) Community meetings took place at seven centres along the route, drawing outdoor enthusiasts and local politicians to support the concept. As Parker originally envisioned it, the trail route passes near many of the island’s major peaks—Mount Becher, Mount Albert Edward, Alexandra Peak, Victoria Peak, Mount Schoen—mountains he has summited along with many others in India, Russia and Georgia, as well as closer to home in the United States and Canada. But practical considerations neces‑ sitated some route changes. Snowfall on the island’s alpine regions often exceeds four metres. The route now fol‑ lows more sub-alpine terrain for longer user accessibility. Other challenges have to be addressed. The route crosses the traditional lands of several First Nations who need to be consulted—an ongoing process. It also traverses six of the island’s seven regional districts and touches several towns and villages; all can benefit from the trail, but need to be consulted. Perhaps the biggest challenge 12  The Alpine Club of Canada

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Winter 2016

Hikers appreciate the bridge over Parsons Creek on the Runners' Trail to Alberni Inlet. 

lies in gaining access to private land owned by forestry companies, a legacy of 19th-century railway land grants. Negotiations for access are required in sections near Cowichan Lake, the Beaufort Range near Port Alberni, and Strathcona Dam. In our preliminary talks with landowners, we acknowledge the primacy of wood/fibre production and seek a cooperative land management approach, one that integrates the primary objective of the landowner with the out‑ door recreation objectives of the public. On the island, hikers and climbers know that access to their backcountry means logging roads—lots of them. They are not surprised to run across recently logged cutblocks, areas that have been replanted with conifers that might be Right: Gil Parker makes friends with the locals,  photo: Andy Ogle Trail volunteer Katrine Kaarsemaker takes in the view above Tuck Lake.  photo: Ross Collicut

photo:

Andy Ogle

chest high, as well as more mature, second growth forests. We consider these sections an opportunity for companies to show the best of “managed forests”. In several cases, the riparian sections that are dedicated along streams and rivers as protected zones afford us the opportunity to create our VI Spine Trail in the shade of old-growth giants.

Chic Scott In the south, the trail will get a major boost in 2017 when the two southern regional districts, Capital Region and Cowichan Valley, complete a section over the Malahat, resulting in a continuous, combined Trans-Canada Trail/VI Spine Trail from Victoria to Lake Cowichan. There, the TCT heads north to Nanaimo while the VI Spine Trail turns northwest to connect with Port Alberni. North from Alberni on the historical Log Train Trail, the VI Spine Trail winds along the crest of the Beaufort Range to Cumberland, where it will climb into Strathcona Park, then follow a ridge east of Buttle Lake and Upper Campbell Lake to Strathcona Dam west of Campbell River. Further north, the VI Spine Trail passes Schoen Lake near the village of Woss, then over the spectacular Bonanza/ Ashwood Ridge to Port McNeill and Port Hardy, finally reaching the North Coast Trail and popular Cape Scott. Led by VI Spine Operations Director, Terry Lewis, this year’s efforts focused on an area west of Campbell River, adding 63 kilometres of trail. Considering newlybuilt trail, plus existing trail and passable connectors, roughly half the VI Spine Trail’s length is now walkable. Funding efforts have raised roughly $100,000 to date, much of it coming from contributions by VISTA members. Much more is needed to complete the trail. VISTA is registered under the B.C. Societies Act, and Federal charitable regulations, allowing tax-deductible contributions. And we welcome financial support! The ACC’s Vancouver Island Section has been a big supporter, con‑ tributing $1,400 over past years, which helped build the Tuck Lake Trail west of Cowichan Lake. Mike Hubbard, VI Section Chair in 2014/15, met Parker in 1981 after mov‑ ing to Victoria from Invermere, B.C. Parker led Hubbard’s first ACC trip on the island, a six-day trek on the West Coast Trail. During his tenure as Chair, Hubbard and the VI Section’s treasurer, Colleen Kasting, attended the Vancouver Island Trails Network Conference put on by VISTA in 2014. “I was much impressed by the diverse participation from other outdoor groups and the scope of the proposed VI Spine

Patron of the 2016 Mountain Guides Ball

Chic Scott on an early attempt of the esat face of Babel. {Photo: Urs Kallen, from The Bold and Cold )

Thank you for your ongoing dedication to alpine culture and mountain literature.

Wilderness Trail, which was another of Gil’s enthusiasms,” Hubbard says. “As a result of that conference, our section made a financial contribution to VISTA and also joined as a member. Our section continues to be totally supportive of the trail and many members are participating in its development.” Current VI Section Chair, Catrin Brown, has known Parker for more than 20 years and recalls climbing Mount Shasta and some of the other West Coast volcanic peaks with him. “Creating a corridor that will give

people access to multi-day hikes on the island is a terrific idea,” Brown says. “Anything that promotes hiking on Vancouver Island and helps give access to some of our most beautiful areas is great.” Brown also feels if anyone can make such an ambitious project happen, it’s Parker, a former VI Section Chair. “Gil has an ability to turn visions into reality, whether it’s developing solar energy or leading climbing trips to Russia,” she says. To learn more or to donate, visit www.vispine.ca. Le Club Alpin du Canada

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2016  13

Members visit Druk Yul—Land of the Thunder Dragon story and photos by

Dean Albrecht

More people have summited Everest than completed the Snowman Trek.

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his statement was a tantaliz‑ ing advertisement for the epic Snowman Trek across the top of Bhutan. The route facts—360 kilometres in 28 days, crossing eight mountain passes mostly above 5,000 metres—seemed to reinforce its reputation as the world’s toughest trek. Recently retired, my spouse, Diane, and I were looking to celebrate with just such an ultimate challenge in an exotic location. The tiny Kingdom of Bhutan resides in the Himalayas between India and Tibet. We imagined it as the last Shangri-La, famous for measuring Gross National Happiness alongside Gross Domestic Production. The Royal Government of Bhutan recognizes trekking as a benefit to remote communities that may otherwise suffer during a period of rapid urbanization. To this end, they impose a minimum spend‑ ing requirement (currently $250 USD daily in the high season) to support local econ‑ omies. Included is a “sustainable tourism” tax that contributes to Bhutan’s free education and healthcare. Independent travel is forbidden and tourists must be accompanied by a licensed Bhutanese cul‑ tural guide provided through an approved tour company. It was late September when we flew from Edmonton to Kathmandu and then on to Bhutan’s only international airport at Paro where we met our guide from UK-based The Mountain Company, Laya village rests at 3,700 metres

A raven perches among strings of prayer flags on a chorten in Jangothang

as well as his three Bhutanese assistant guides and nine fellow trekkers. We were fully supported by ponies and occasion‑ ally yaks when the terrain warranted. With travel and rest days, plus time set aside for cultural tours, the entire trip was to occupy 35 days. Druk Yul is the traditional name for Bhutan, meaning Land of the Thunder Dragon in their native Dzongkha dia‑ lect. It always brought a smile to the face of those we greeted with a friendly “Kuzoozangpo” or joined in shouting “Largyalo!” from the high passes. A big anticipation was seeing the forbidden peaks of Bhutan, as the deeply Buddhist country has not allowed climbing for many years. A few of the giants we passed were Jomolhari (7,326 metres), a sacred mountain to Himalayan Buddhists; Jitchu Drake (6,990 metres); Gangchen Tag or Tiger Mountain (6,784 metres); Zongophu Kang or Table Mountain (7,094 metres); and Gangkar

Punsum (7,564 metres), the world’s tallest unclimbed mountain. We enjoyed the local cuisine prepared by our camp cook. Chillies are a national dish that, along with very potent rice liquor, amused the locals by their effect on foreigners. Nettle soup was a pleas‑ ant discovery. Our camp staff would use their spare time to gather wild herbs. The natural medicines of Bhutan are in such demand in Tibet, China and India that raiding parties are frequently discovered crossing the high passes during growing season. One coveted medicine is cordyceps sinensis or caterpillar fungus, which produces such riches on the black market that it has replaced the traditional livelihood of farm‑ ing and herding in some villages. Today you can spot the successful fungus pickers by their large houses with satellite dishes. While every day had its share of memories, those that remain most vivid are worth recounting. While descending a steep pass, we came upon a lone man struggling to haul a pair of heavy steel brick presses to his village for use in constructing a new school. As he had no money to contribute, his role was to bring the equipment and he’d been on the trail for two days! One afternoon we were entertained by a game played between our yak herders. A pop can was propped up some distance away and they proceeded to fling stones in an attempt to strike the can. There seemed to be money involved and a good deal of shouting accompanied each suc‑ cessful strike. In fact, this was essential practice for their occupation. The yak, being a very stubborn animal, can only be

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steered in a general fashion by striking it with a stone on the opposite flank. With a pocketful of smooth rocks, the skillful herder maintains orderly progress. Young men travelling between villages with bows reminded us that archery is the national sport of Bhutan. We were privileged to watch a competition where opposing teams attempt to hit a target from a 145-metre distance. The score was signalled by elaborate gestures and dances to inform both the other team and the appreciative audience. The ceremonies that occurred during harvest were very serious, as we found when hiking through the remote village of Chozo. Chanting and deep thrumming of trumpets drew us to the local monas‑ tery, but the door was quickly closed as we approached! This was quite a change from other Himalayan countries where they wait until tourists appear before starting the “show”. We enjoyed a rest day in splendid isolation at the natural hot springs of Dur Tsachu, soaking away our trail aches in one of several rock-lined pools renowned by locals for their healing properties. The PBS series Independent Lens

aired a one-hour documentary about the coming of electricity to a remote village in Bhutan. The program was called Happiness, and the village was Laya, where we spent two days. We camped in the pasture of the couple referred to in the program as Uncle and Aunt, and bought beer from them too! The amazing variety of landscapes was another highlight of the journey; from thick forests of bamboo and pine to alpine meadows and dusty mountain passes, all punctuated with the fragrance of rhodo‑ dendrons. The palette of colours remains vivid; blue pine cones, rust and verdigris valleys, bright prayer flags, elaborately

2016-09-07 decorated yak trains and ornately painted monasteries—a visual feast. Following our trek, we spent a few days touring the historical and cultural sights of Paro, Bumthang and Thimpu, the capital. Very memorable was the fairy-tale Taktsang monastery, a.k.a. Tiger’s Nest, recently visited by British royal couple Will and Kate. We were greeted at the trailhead by a sign that proclaimed; “Remember Nature is the Source of All Happiness”. In Bhutan, at least for now, we couldn’t agree more. ACC member Dean Albrecht lives in Edmonton.

Fellow trekker Christine ascends 4,650-metre Phorang La

1:36 AM

32 Backcountry

Home for the night on the Bow-Yoho Traverse: the Stanley Mitchell Hut glows all cozy and quiet in the Little Yoho Valley.  Photo: Leigh McClurg, Pebbleshoo.com

www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/huts

y Huts Find yours!

Mont Blanc Massif delivers Royal Traverse by Lida Frydrychova

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fter more than eight months of planning by Joad and me, our group began arriving in Chamonix, France. I had spent a week in the Czech Republic eating delicious food and visiting family. My parents generously lent me their vehicle to drive 13 hours to Switzerland where I picked up Brenden Nielsen. Brenden had already spent a month in Europe travelling and climbing; prior to that he completed an extensive skills course with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures. He’d turn out to be our team rope gun. I’d met Anja Voland and Peter Krohn last year at an Alpine Club of Canada Calgary Section camp. Rick Stack, our speed gun, arrived from Chicago where he trains by climbing skyscraper stair‑ cases. Having climbed in the Rockies several times, he thought joining the Calgary Section could be pretty cool— and it was! Joad, my good friend, speaks French— crucial for planning this trip. While I had previous knowledge of the area and solid mountain skills, Joad researched the trip logistics and together we dreamed up one of the coolest traverses the Alps have to offer. But, ambitious and prepared as always, Joad trained a bit too hard and injured himself running, ending up in the hospital with several stitches on his knee and elbow. The badly swollen and difficult-to-bend knee resulted in him

Lida Frydrychova and Rick Stack descend the exposed Bionnassay Ridge. 

withdrawing from the expedition.  Five of us prepared to tackle the Royal Traverse of the Mont Blanc Massif. We reviewed the route and various options depending on weather, ordered meals for our pre-booked huts, and sorted gear. Thankfully, ACC membership granted us discounts at several huts. With two 60-metre half ropes, a full rock rack, 12 draws, two emergency devices, two GPSs and the usual glacier gear, axes, one technical tool each and lots of clothing, our packs weighed 40 to 50 pounds.

Brenden Nielsen and Peter Krohn have a moment of fun on the Three Monts traverse. 

photo:

Anja Voland

photo by

Anja Voland

In the morning we drove 45 minutes to the village of Le Cugnon, southwest of Chamonix, then hiked 830 metres to the Refuge de Tré-la-Tête. As a trip leader I have learned to carry many different kinds of foot protection, and once again Leuko tape worked the best to solve vari‑ ous issues. Traversing on a good trail with the occasional rocky sections equipped with rope handrails we gained another 600 metres elevation, the highlight being a long suspension bridge crossing a couloir. At 3 p.m. we reached the large Conscrits hut (2,602 metres) and enjoyed sunshine and an excellent dinner. For €48 (including ACC discount) for lodging and dinner it was our best deal of the trip.  Our second day brought real moun‑ taineering with some steep snow climbs and exposed scrambling with crampons. We crossed four summits of the Dômes de Miage (3,673 metres). It was a beautiful ridge, but an afternoon storm approached. Ascending 1,200 metres in 9.5 hours, at 3 p.m. we hit the hut and almost instantly it began raining and hailing. The Durier hut (3,389 metres) was

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basic, and the custodian was a strict young lady with a lot of rules for her 20 guests—with capacity for only 12. It had three levels of bunk beds and a sketchy outhouse that required balance and good aiming. We squeezed ourselves into the tight bunks and stayed there all night as there was not much space to go elsewhere.  The third day promised to be the most challenging with a three-pitch rock step on possibly wet rock and very exposed ridge walking with potentially question‑ able weather. We anxiously listened to the weather update and learned it would be similar to the day before—good news, so we decided to continue. Waking to fog and low clouds slightly tempered our excitement. Some people began noticing the altitude, feeling nau‑ sea or headache. Trips to the “interesting” outhouse didn’t help. It was chilly and slow in the dark fog with no one close ahead of us. After two hours of crampon‑ ing we transitioned into rock climbing mode. The summit was an exposed snow ridge where we took an au cheval break for a few minutes to catch our breath at 4,052 meters with a huge drop-off on both sides. It was beautiful, exhilarating, sunny and a bit windy. We carefully stood up on the knife-edge ridge and started an airy descent, travelling slowly as a misstep would be deadly. It was exciting with stunning views. Next, ascending the Dôme du Goûter with altitude sucking our breath away we moved as quickly as possible as big clouds rolled in. Luckily the sky cleared and we took a beautiful break at 4,100 metres, surveying our route ahead. We then connected with the normal Mont Blanc route to the Goûter hut, ascending 1,100 metres, most of it above 4,000 metres. The new Goûter hut (3,817 metres) is a significant upgrade from the old dungeon I stayed at four years ago, beautifully situated on the edge of the glacier. The weather forecast for the next day called for clouds and snow, with the fol‑ lowing day supposed to be beautiful, but a bit windy. We enjoyed a rest day at the hut and prepared for Mont Blanc and the Trois Monts traverse the following day. Waking at 3 a.m. on day five—along with everyone else in the hut—revealed a

From left, Lida Frydrychova, Rick Stack, Brenden Nielsen, Peter Krohn and Anja Voland celebrate on Mont Blanc's 4,808-metre summit.

beautiful night with a full moon and only moderate wind. I was excited! Despite heavy packs, we made it to the Vallot hut in two hours, then separated a bit as everyone seemed to have their own rhythm for walking in the thin air. Two and a half hours later we all happily met at the top and enjoyed bluebird views from the highest peak in western Europe. The descent over Trois Monts was

exciting with lots of steep zig-zagging between crevasses and one rappel. We descended 1,300 metres, then climbed up another 300 metres to the Midi gondola where we joined crowds of tourists. We all felt satisfied with what we accom‑ plished and excited to return to the Alps in the future. Alpine Club of Canada trip leader Lida Frydrychova belongs to the Calgary Section.

Le Club Alpin du Canada

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2016  19

ACC crew digs into some dirt story and photos by

“D

Heather Mosher

id you bring your pulaski?” Willa asked me with a smile. It was on the “optional” gear list for the day’s event, and the unfamiliar word had sparked some interest and confusion from the group members. “What is a pulaski?” someone shouted. Around us was the buzz of people gathering in the morning: meeting each other, stretching, tossing snacks into daypacks, and car doors slamming against a backdrop of the naked green ski runs of Cypress Mountain and the lush tem‑ perate rainforest of Vancouver’s North Shore mountains. As the group gathered, we compared and selected tools for the day from the back of a B.C. Parks truck. The tool names read like a packing list for a Russian labour camp: pulaskis, mat‑ tocks and other associated grub hoes, heavy-handled shovels for serious dig‑ ging, and steely rakes. The right tools, the right people. The mission for the day was trail maintenance—or, as I’d sold it to the group of volunteers organized through The Alpine Club of Canada’s Vancouver Section—to hang out in the forest and dig in the dirt for an afternoon. “It’s a bit like being a kid in a sandbox all over again!” I’d written in the event description, and the selling worked—we had plenty of hands there to get dirty. After a quick briefing from B.C. Parks

Susan Vickers, Georg Meseck, Karine Poliquin and Doug Mcleod take a short dance break.  photo by Heather Mosher

ranger Andrew Simpson, we shouldered our digging tools and marched a short distance up the wide, gravelled path that marks the start of the Howe Sound Crest Trail. This classic Vancouver trail, often tackled as an overnight or an ambitious day trip, stretches 29 kilometres from Cypress Bowl in North Vancouver up to Porteau Cove, a scenic bay sandwiched between Howe Sound and Highway 99. On this day, our work was to dig ditches and clear culverts on the easily-accessed,

well-built and extremely popular south‑ ern portion of the trail. The digging was fun and we wielded the pulaskis with enthusiasm. We learned to watch the terrain for signs of storm water flow, anticipating where the trail might flood and digging out clogged ditches. We dragged branches and organic debris out of culverts to route water downhill, and carefully shored up

Above: Paul and Willa Geddes become acquainted with their pulaskis.  photo: Heather Mosher Left: Susan Vickers gets down in the dirt.  photo by Heather Mosher

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Nominate a Volunteer our freshly-dug ditches with large, flat rocks. The work was satisfying. This trail in particular has seen sig‑ nificant upgrades in recent years, and has been built to last. It has withstood weather, rainfall and the thousands of feet, which tread on it each month. However, erosion from heavy use and copious rainfall will inevitably take their toll, and the trail needs annual cleanups to help prevent debris from accumulating and causing blowouts during heavy win‑ ter rains. Volunteer power is critical to keeping trails such as the Howe Sound Crest Trail in good shape, and simply through the power of numbers even an inexperienced group on a short, fun day can accomplish a surprisingly significant amount of work. If 12 volunteers put in a four-hour day, that alone means 48 person-hours of trail work—a huge amount of labour, and an effort which is greatly appreciated by B.C. Parks. At the end of the day, and to

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very year, the members of The Alpine Club of Canada’s Awards Committee volunteer their time to sift through numerous nominations to determine the recipients of the Club’s Volunteer Awards. Nominations are now open for outstanding Alpine Club of Canada volunteers. The following awards recognize and celebrate ACC volunteers for their contributions to the Club and its members:

●● ●● ●● ●●

A.O. Wheeler Legacy Award Honorary Membership President’s Award Silver Rope for Leadership Award

●● ●● ●●

Distinguished Service Award Don Forest Service Award Eric Brooks Leader Award

For details on how to nominate a volunteer and nomination forms, visit www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/awards or call the ACC National Office at (403) 678-3200 ext. 108 to receive the information by mail. Deadline for nominations is December 31.

surprising enthusiasm from the group, I entertained the idea of hiking back up the Howe Sound Crest Trail in the winter to admire our handiwork and watch our freshly-dug ditches in action. In reality, the rainy, cold hike might be a hard sell, but there was a warming feeling of satis‑ faction knowing that our small efforts

will make a visible difference in the trail over time. Besides, it’s just plain fun to spend a day with good people getting muddy, figuring out how to get the water to go where we want it to go, and using our hands and tools to build something out of rocks and dirt.

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Classic mountaineering camp that targets the must-do giant peaks in the beautiful Lake O’Hara area.

July 31 - August 4 | $1895

Learn to Lead: Sport + Trad Various weekend options | $350 Build confidence and skills to start lead climbing.

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Donjek Glacier Backpacking Dates: late August | Price: TBD A challenging backpacking wilderness route in the pristine wilderness of Kluane National Park. Photo: Sonja Findlater

Les chefs d’expédition qualifiés ont besoin de vous! par Lynn

I

Martel

l y a toujours quelque chose à apprendre des autres aux voyages du Club alpin du Canada. Voilà ce qui a inspiré Ambre McMinn, membre de la section Vancouver, de s’inscrire au cours de leadership North Face (été). Le cours avait lieu au sein du groupe Sorcerer dans le nord de Selkirk en Colombie-Britannique pendant le Camp général d’alpinisme du CAC (GMC), en août. McMinn dit qu’elle voulait par‑ ticulièrement renforcer sa confiance dans ses compétences générales techniques pour se débrouiller en terrain alpin en dirigeant groupes aux expéditions du Club. « Je voulais vraiment développer mes compétences techniques en voyageant sur les pentes de neige et de glaciers escarpées, et acquérir des compétences humaines avancées, » dit-elle. « Je voulais particulièrement améliorer mes capacités à me mesurer aux différents niveaux de tolérance au risque et à la résolution de conflits dans les groupes qui voyagent en arrière-pays. » Or si faire progresser ses compétences et ses connaissances est décisif pour participer à un cours de leadership du CAC, partager ses connaissances est tout aussi important. C’est pour quoi McMinn dirige aussi des voyages du Club où le niveau d’expérience des participants varie. Elle aide aussi à organiser et participe comme de formatrice au programme de mentorat alpin de la section Vancouver. Elle se sent particulièrement

reconnaissante envers le cours de leader‑ ship North Face ainsi qu’envers le CAC et aux guides professionnels de l’AGMC et les chefs amateurs expérimentés qui ont donné le cours. « C’était une semaine de croissance et d’apprentissage magnifique, » ditelle. « Les autres participants étaient de formidables compagnons d’escalade, et les guides étaient incroyables. Ils nous permettaient de repousser nos limites physiques et émotionnelles et d’ap‑ prendre, et savaient précisément quand nous retenir pour maintenir la sécurité du groupe. » Bien que les membres du CAC n’aient pas tous envie de suivre des cours pour devenir des chefs d’expédition, chaque membre qui participe aux voyages et aux

camps dirigés par les bénévoles de leur section bénéficie de la planification et de l’exécution des cours de leadership du CAC. Et tout le monde, chefs d’ex‑ pédition et participants, profite des dons essentiels que fournissent des membres généreux du Club pour organiser et faire fonctionner des cours en leadership de haute qualité. La possibilité de participer à des formations professionnellement ensei‑ gnées est un avantage exceptionnel pour les membres du CAC, mais les seuls frais ne sont pas suffisants pour répondre aux demandes de notre club en expansion. Pour aider à encourager et faciliter ces cours, le CAC a créé en 1997 le Fonds en développement de leadership (Leadership Development Fund). Ce

Nommez un bénévole

C

haque année, les membres du Comité des prix du Club Alpin du Canada consacrent de leur temps libre à passer au crible de nombreuses nominations pour déterminer les lauréats des Prix de bénévolat du Club. Les candidatures sont maintenant ouvertes pour les bénévoles exceptionnels du Club Alpin du Canada. Les prix suivants reconnaissent et célèbrent les bénévoles du CAC pour leurs contributions au Club et à ses membres :

●● ●● ●● ●●

Prix A.O. Wheeler Legacy Membre honoraire Prix du président Prix Silver Rope du leadership

●● ●● ●●

Prix pour le service remarquable Prix de service Don Forest Prix leader Eric Brooks

Pour plus de détails sur les formulaires de candidature et la façon de nommer un bénévole, visitez www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/awards ou appelez le Bureau national du CAC au (403) 678-3200 ext. 108 pour recevoir l’information par la poste. La date de tombée des candidatures est le 31 décembre.

Programme de bourses du CAC

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râce à la générosité de nombreux donateurs, le Club Alpin du Canada a établi des fonds pour soutenir des projets et des initiatives liés à l’alpinisme. La date limite pour la soumission des demandes de bourse est le 31 janvier. Les lauréats seront annoncés à la mi-mars.

La Bourse Environnement fournit un soutien qui contribue à la protection et la préservation de la flore et la faune alpines dans leur habitat naturel. L’objectif de la subvention est la conservation des régions sauvages. La Bourse Jen Higgins promeut les activités créatives et énergiques poursuivies par les jeunes femmes en contexte alpin. Ces pro‑ jets devraient faire preuve d’initiative, de créativité, d’énergie et d’ingéniosité; mettre l’accent sur le voyage automoteur en milieu sauvage, et fournir de la valeur et de l’intérêt à la communauté. La Bourse Jim Colpitts favorise la participation des jeunes grimpeurs de 17 à 24 ans à des cours et des programmes associés à la montagne, comme le secourisme en milieu sauvage, la sécurité en cas d’avalanche, le sauvetage en crevasses et rochers, et des formations en leadership de montagne. Visiter : www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/grants ou appelez le Bureau national du CAC au (403) 678-3200 ext. 108 pour s’informer et accéder aux demandes de candidature.

22  The Alpine Club of Canada

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Kilimanjaro  Africa’s Highest Mountain  5895 m / 19340 ft.

DIK DIK H o t e l & To u r s Individual safaris in Tanzania Kilimanjaro climb & Safari Specialist Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara Holidays in Zanzibar [email protected] www.dikdik.ch It is the Swiss family’s Vision & Commitment to provide top quality accommodation, food and service in a friendly atmosphere.

Déterminer comment nous pourrions travailler comme une équipe soudée qui peut organiser des expéditions en toute confiance et en toute sécurité, puis voyager ensemble dans les montagnes en continuant d’avoir du plaisir », dit-elle. Pour faciliter le développement de chefs d’expédition enthousiastes et qualifiés, contactez Jolene Livingston [email protected] ou visitez www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/donations pour faire un don au fonds de leadership ou à tout autre fonds du CAC.

Summer Leadership Course for ACC Volunteers Twice a year, ACC sections from across the country send their leaders to

The North Face – ACC Leadership Course

Photo: Amber McMinn

fonds est soutenu grâce aux contributions incluant le Leadership Fund. généreuses de membres du CAC et « C’est une bonne idée d’aider les gens grâce à leur investissement, vingt chefs à se lancer dans les montagnes quand d’expédition bénévoles ont pu assister aux ils sont débutants, » dit-elle. « C’est une cours de North Face : dix chacun pour responsabilité des dirigeants de les faire l’été et l’hiver. sortir et il est bon de les aider. » Tandis que l’adhésion au Club évolue Même si elle n’a pas grimpé en pour inclure des activités de montagne de montagne « depuis des lustres », Molson plus en plus variées (de l’escalade de glace dit devoir au CAC beaucoup de beaux à la randonnée et le ski hors-piste), de souvenirs et d’amitiés, comme celle de nouvelles occasions son amie de longue et de nouveaux cours chaque membre qui participe date, Elizabeth se préparent pour Walker. Les deux aux voyages et aux camps former des leaders femmes se sont dans des disciplines rencontrées par dirigés par les bénévoles de spécifiques. Pour l’entremise du Club leur section bénéficie de la offrir du soutien durant les années planification et de l’exécution 1950 et sont restées à ces cours, un programme de des cours de leadership du CAC proches depuis lors. développement (le Walker a assisté à Trip Leader Development Program) 10 camps du CAC au cours des années, a été créé pour permettre de réduire le où elle a appris à apprécier les aptitudes ratio de participants par chef d’excur‑ des leaders expérimentés qui dirigeaient sion et développer une base étendue de ses escalades. leaders qui connaissent les itinéraires, les « Je crois que c’est tout un talent endroits locaux et les compétences néces‑ d’avoir des qualités en leadership et saires pour faire de chaque voyage une qu’elles devraient être encouragées », a expérience mémorable et amusante aux dit Walker. participants. Pour encourager la prochaine généra‑ Créé en 2010 et inspiré par le dévoue‑ tion de chefs d’excursion, Molson et ment de la membre à vie Louise Guy Walker étaient toutes deux parmi les aux Camps généraux du CAC (GMC), membres du CAC à avoir contribué à le Louise Guy Commemorative Fund divers fonds du CAC en 2016, incluant le apporte un financement continu à fonds de leadership. l’entraînement des chefs d’excursion Être la bénéficiaire de leur générosité, GMC bénévoles. Pour avoir longtemps a dit McMinn, est quelque chose dont fréquenté ces camps, Guy comprenait que elle sera toujours reconnaissante en diri‑ les programmes de leadership ne pou‑ geant ses futures expéditions du CAC. vaient pas marcher sans la générosité des « Dans l’ensemble, je pense que la membres du club. meilleure chose que j’ai apprise pendant Parmi ces membres contributeurs se la North Face Leadership Week était de trouve Jean Molson, membre à vie de la savoir comment coopérer avec un groupe section Vancouver, qui a donné à divers de personnes qui ont toutes un niveau fonds et initiatives du Club au fil des ans, d’expérience et de confort différent.

2017 Location: Albert Icefields Date: GMC Week 4, July 29 – August 5 Price: $995 Deadline for applications: April 28

www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/tnf Le Club Alpin du Canada

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ACC Toronto Section Camp participants survey their options en route from Bill Putnam (Fairy Meadow) Hut to Echo Glacier. 

photo by

Brian Cauley

Camp a mountaineer makes by

I

Andrea Wrobel

often ponder the choices we make over the course of our lives; the ones that leave a lasting impact or change our paths almost immediately. I think about the choices that take us to unexpected places, the ones where we find ourselves planted at the base of some‑ thing great with the will, the yearning, and the knowledge to climb it. I fell in love with mountaineering two years ago when I agreed to produce a mountaineering web series called The Peakbaggers. The project awoke feelings of adrenaline, fear, solitude and success that had been buried in me since child‑ hood. I knew if I was going to succeed, I must dedicate the time and energy to learn in an alpine environment. This was big, and there was no way around it. 

Like anyone (quite literally) delving into new territory, with one foot trudging ahead of the other, I moved forward on the advice of friends, fellow Alpine Club of Canada members, and the feeling that you can only learn so much from a book. I registered for week one of the ACC Toronto Section’s mountaineering camp.  July was a month I will never forget. The Adamants and Bill Putman (Fairy Meadow) Hut provided a safe space for me to explore the rawest adrenaline, fear, solitude and success I could have imagined, and the ACC provided an incredible support system to explore such feelings. Under a brightly positive light, I became a mountaineer. On Friday, under a bright blue and cirrus sky we ascended the southeast

Heather Allen belays Brian Cauley as he scrambles up loose rock on the northwest ridge of Mount Quadrant; Jim Lundy follows.  photo: Andrea Wrobel

slope of Mount Damon from Friendship Col. The clouds were stretched thin like tissue paper and, in some directions, grew cumulous as we summited. It was a long moment of many firsts for me: first time that high, in that place, on that terrain, in that headspace. First time so wholly cap‑ tivated by a planet I’d now given myself to completely.  “What are you willing to risk for these mountains?” The words of our ACMG guide Mark Klassen echoed in my head. “Are you willing to risk your life for this?” This question was one of my greatest fears before going to the mountains. I couldn’t answer it. But what the Adamants taught me about myself in one long moment climbing Mount Damon is that I am, actually, not afraid at all. The most memorable question Klassen asked me wasn’t about what I was willing to risk or whether I knew that I was wearing the wrong boots for alpin‑ ism. He said, “If you’re so afraid, why do you do this?”  We were stopped at the top of Friendship Col between Pythias and Damon, a couple of hours away from “home”. On the climb up I’d audibly gasped under every boulder movement along the moraine. With every slip of snow underfoot I let out a small cry. Mark stopped, trying to understand my fear. My gasps were throwing my team off—Mark and my partner, Brian—and were preventing me from truly enjoying it all. I’ll admit, I felt real fear. But when Mark asked me this, I wondered if I was actually afraid.  He asked about my relationship with

marmot.com

Photo: Gabe Rogel

Brian. I mentioned our three-year rela‑ tionship and fairly new engagement. He pointed out how many people are afraid of commitment. “You aren’t afraid of that,” he said, adding, “so this is nothing to be afraid of.” I kept saying I wasn’t actually afraid; that I was making the fearful noises out of habit. But I was scared. I’d only ever read about alpine terrain—studied it like my life depended on it—and now I was in the middle of a glacier crossing a snow bridge wondering if it was my turn to practice prussiking at the bottom of a crevasse. It was as though I spent months reading about Alice in Wonderland and now I was doing all I could to avoid the rabbit hole. I wasn’t actually afraid; I just wasn’t willing to give up control.  I pondered my fear; I defined it and found it in the “what ifs” of all the books I read. I gasped less and I stepped more sure-footedly. Post-holing became less scary. Boulders shifted, and I let them. Cracks in the snow-topped glaciers existed, and I crossed them. I still gasped, but only once or twice. I began communi‑ cating with the terrain. It was our last full day at the camp

and our first summit in a place I never thought I’d be two summers prior. On our last morning, trip leader Ron Rusk and ACC Toronto Activities Chair Bryan Thompson inquired about whether I’d actually had a good week in the hills. The sky was so clear I could almost hear the helicopter coming to pick us up. I didn’t want to leave. My biggest fear had been that, as a green climber, I wouldn’t be taken under a wing, shown any ropes (pun intended), and that I would be a burden to people whose time was precious in the moun‑ tains. But Ron and Bryan’s faces lit up when I joked that I was newly addicted to the territory, and that shocked me. “Maybe you could lead a trip up here in a few years,” they said. “Yeah!” I laughed, thinking they were kidding.  This small moment allowed me to feel like I could be something, like I could succeed at this. It made me feel like I could be a mountaineer, and that I was, maybe, even one now. Was I? The week opened the door to a life‑ time of learning and opportunity. To be in a place where you can learn, feel, and

Athlete: Brenton Reagan

face adrenaline, fear, solitude and success is almost an unbelievable gift. To learn wholly that mountains are about being at the mercy of the earth; that Earth chooses for you to summit and that you must communicate with it to do so.  How do you learn anything? With one foot trudging ahead of the other you learn to cross a crevasse. Maybe you find the rabbit hole. Maybe you don’t. ACC Toronto Section camp week 1 climbers gather on the Bill Putnam (Fairy Meadow) Hut deck.  photo: Andrea Wrobel

Donations help grow skilled trip leaders by Lynn

O

Martel

n every Alpine Club of Canada trip, there is always something to learn from someone. Knowing that provided impetus for ACC Vancouver Section member Amber McMinn to apply to participate in The North Face Summer Leadership Course. The course took place in the Sorcerer Group in B.C.’s Northern Selkirk Mountains during the Club’s General

Mountaineering Camp (GMC) in August. McMinn said she specifically wanted to build confidence in both her soft skills of leading groups in the mountains, and her technical skills of negotiating alpine terrain while leading others on Club trips. “I really wanted to build my technical skills while travelling on steep snow and glacier ice, and to learn advanced soft

The Alpine Club of Canada - Toronto Section

26  The Alpine Club of Canada

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skills,” she said. “Particularly, I wanted to improve my ability to deal with varying risk tolerance and conflict resolution within a group of people travelling in the backcountry together.” While improving her own skills and knowledge is a key motivator to participate in ACC leadership courses, McMinn said, sharing her knowledge with others is equally important. As such, she passes on her skills by leading Club trips with participants with a range of experience levels, and also by helping to organize trips, and by participating as a mentor in the Vancouver Section’s Alpine Mentorship Program. She feels especially grateful to The North Face Leadership Course, she said, and also to the ACC and the professional ACMG guides and experienced amateur leaders who instructed the course. “It was a wonderful week of growth and learning,” McMinn said. “The fellow participants were awesome to climb with and the guides were amazing—letting us take it right to the edge both physically and emotionally, allowing us to push personal limits and learn, but knowing exactly when to reel us back in to keep the group safe.” While not all ACC members are motivated to become trip leaders or to enroll in leadership courses, every mem‑ ber who participates in volunteer-led section trips and camps benefits from the planning and execution of ACC leadership courses. And everyone, both leaders and non-leading participants, benefits from the donations made by generous Club members that are essential to organizing and running high-quality leadership courses. The opportunity to participate in professionally taught skills courses is an outstanding benefit of ACC membership. To help encourage and facilitate leader‑ ship courses, in 1997 the ACC created the Leadership Development Fund. Through the Fund, 20 volunteer trip leaders were able to attend The North Face courses in 2016, 10 each in summer and winter. As the Club’s membership evolves to include those with increasingly varied mountain interests, from ice climbing to hiking to backcountry skiing, new courses are being designed to help train leaders

ACC Grants Program

T

hrough the generosity of many donors, The Alpine Club of Canada has estab‑ lished funds to support mountaineering related projects and initiatives. The deadline for submission of grant applications is January 31 each year. Grant recipients will be announced mid-March.

ng festiv al a nd c o m pe

ti ti o

n

The Environment Grant provides support that contributes to the protection and preservation of alpine flora and fauna in their natural habitat. The focus of the grant is wilderness conservation. The Jen Higgins Grant promotes creative and energetic alpine related outdoor pursuits by young women. These projects should demonstrate initiative, creativ‑ ity, energy and resourcefulness with an emphasis on self-propelled wilderness travel, and should provide value and interest to the community. Jim Colpitts Grant e ncourages young climbers between the ages of 17 and 24 to participate in mountain related courses and programs such as wilderness first aid, avalanche training, rock/crevasse rescue and mountain leadership training.

For info and application forms visit: www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/grants or call the ACC National Office at 403-678-3200 ext. 108.

Festival et c

om

pé

ti ti o

n d’escalade su rg

l a c e | I c e c li m b i

in specific disciplines. To support these the 1950s and have been close friends ever courses, the Trip Leader Development since. Walker attended ten ACC camps over the years, and said that’s where she Program was recently created to allow learned to appreciate the abilities of the lower leader-to-participant ratios, and skilled leaders who led her on climbs. develop an expanded base of leaders who “I think it’s quite a talent to have have knowledge of local routes and loca‑ leadership qualities, and they should be tions, as well as the people and leadership encouraged,” Walker said. skills to make every trip fun and memor‑ To help encourage able for participants. the next generation of Created in 2010 every member who leaders, both Molson and inspired by Life participates in volunteer- and Walker were Member Louise Guy’s dedication to led section trips and camps among a number of ACC members the GMC, the Louise Guy Commemorative benefits from the planning who donated to the Leadership and other Fund is used to pro‑ and execution of ACC ACC funds in 2016. vide ongoing funding leadership courses Being a recipient for training GMC of their generosity, volunteer leaders. A McMinn said, is something she’ll always long-time attendee of the GMC, Guy be grateful for as she leads ACC trips in fully understood how leadership pro‑ the future. grams couldn’t run without donations “Overall, I think the best thing from Club members. I learned during The North Face Among such members is Vancouver Leadership week was how to engage with Section Life Member Jean Molson who a group of people who all have varying has donated to various Club funds and experience levels and comfort levels, initiatives over the years, including the and figuring out how we could all work Leadership Fund. together as a cohesive team that could “It’s a good idea to help people get confidently and safely organize trips and started in the mountains when they’re travel in the mountains together, all while neophytes,” Molson said. “It’s a respons‑ still having fun,” McMinn said. ibility for the leaders to take people out, To help facilitate the developand it’s good to help them.” ment of enthusiastic, skilled trips Although it’s been “ages” since she leaders, contact Jolene Livingston at climbed a mountain, Molson said she [email protected] credited the ACC with many great mem‑ or to donate to the Leadership ories and friendships, including knowing Fund, or any other ACC fund, visit her long-time friend, Elizabeth Walker. www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/donations. The two women met through the ACC in

de Saint-Boniface Festival et compétition d’escalade sur glace Ice climbing festival and competition

February 25 & 26 février 2017

www.cesb.net Section Saint-Boniface du Club Alpin du Canada

The Bookpack by Lynn

Martel

Surviving Logan  by Erik Bjarnason and Cathi Shaw

In May 2005, eight members of British Columbia’s respected North Shore Rescue organized an expedition to Canada’s highest peak in celebration of the group’s 40th anniversary. While their ascent progressed relatively smoothly, a vicious storm trapped three members at 5,500 metres at Prospector Col. Surviving Logan is the story of one of those men, Erik Bjarnason’s ordeal and ultimate survival as they endured 140-kilometre-per-hour winds and extreme cold after their tent was destroyed, leaving them to the ravages of the elements. Thanks to the efforts of North Shore Rescue, the Alaskan Air Guard and others, the men were rescued, but not before Bjarnason lost all his fingers and one thumb to frostbite. Remarkably, he fought his way back to his job as a firefighter, and to climbing. Published by Rocky Mountain Books www.rmbooks.com.

The 11,000ers of the Canadian Rockies 2nd Edition  by Bill Corbett

It’s bigger, beefier and loaded with brilliant photos, plus four more peaks, bringing the number of Rockies’ 11,000ers to 58. In addition to its terrific larger size, the new edition of this must-have guidebook provides delightful reading for dedicated peak-baggers and armchairs mountaineers alike. It features thoroughly updated route information, particularly for glaciated mountains that are undergoing significant changes as a result of the planet’s warming temperatures, and for access routes through terrain where glacial retreat has significantly reshaped the landscape. Like the original edition, which was a Banff Mountain Book Festival award winner, Corbett relates captivating accounts of the pioneering climbers’ ascents and their original routes, as well as detailed descriptions of moderate to intermediate routes as well as ski descents, plus access and approach information. Published by Rocky Mountain Books www.rmbooks.com.

The Columbia Icefield – 3rd Edition  by Robert William Sandford

The Columbia Icefield is the largest accumulation of glacial ice that straddles 223 square kilometres along the Great Divide, which marks the boundary between British Columbia and Alberta. The icefield also straddles Banff and Jasper national parks, contributing significantly to their designations as United Nations World Heritage Sites. And while mountaineers have been exploring its reaches for more than a century, and scientists have been studying it for decades, much remains to be learned about this constantly changing body of ice. In this 3rd edition of his popular guide to the Columbia Icefield, Sandford provides not just stunning photos and the latest scientific facts about North America’s most visited glacier, but insights into how water has shaped landscapes in the past and how melting glaciers will shape civilization in the future. Published by Rocky Mountain Books www.rmbooks.com.

Nine Would Not Do: The Life of Leo Grillmair, Mountaineer  by David Goldsmith

“Luck needs a lot of help,” says Leo Grillmair. “To have a little fear is healthy. I’m not saying I was never scared. I was scared many times.” Business partner and long-time friend of Hans Gmoser, Leo Grillmair arrived in Canada from Austria with Gmoser in 1951 seeking a new life in the austere shadow of the Second World War. From his youth in Austria, to establishing bold and difficult new climbing routes, to running ski touring camps in Little Yoho Valley, to his role as a pioneer ski guide and lodge manager for the world’s first heliskiing company, Canadian Mountain Holidays, Grillmair has lived a life of adventure, excitement and difficulties. In this film Goldsmith captures Grillmair’s stories in his own entertaining, captivating and colourful words. Produced by David Goldsmith, [email protected].

28  The Alpine Club of Canada

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Winter 2016

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he world might be small, but the planet is enormous. Since I was the Interim Executive Director of the ACC a year and a half ago, I’ve had the great fortune of visiting different mountain ranges, climbing areas, and mountain cultures around the world. It feels like I’ve only scratched the surface with visits to Nepal, Thailand, Laos, Pakistan, Greece, northern Spain, eastern France, European Alps, U.S.A., and, of course, our very own Canadian mountains. The experience is different every‑ where. Some areas are rugged, remote and untouched, others are pure fun and developed with conveniences. In some mountain regions, the people are extremely poor, and in others they are exceptionally wealthy. In all places, I have found that the people love their moun‑ tains. On a spectacular blue sky day, with 8,000-metre peaks towering above us, a Balti porter in Pakistan jokingly asked me, “Why do you come here? It’s just snow and rocks.” I joked back to him, “What—you’d rather be in Karachi right now?” (Karachi is Pakistan’s biggest city with more than 25 million people). We were worlds apart in almost every way, but we shared an enormous appreciation for the mountain landscape around us. Whether you are a mountaineer or a trekker, I highly recommend visiting Nepal and Pakistan. Their mountains are indescribably spectacular and their people are the friendliest you will find. If you are worried about the political situation, I can honestly say that I felt safer in those two countries than in many others I’ve visited.

Nancy Hansen and Ralf Dujmovits enjoy the views and comfortable seating on top of Hannibal Tower at Furka Pass in Switzerland. Only in Switzerland can you find a “bus stop” bolted to the top of a 250-metre granite spire. A bus can’t actually go there, but the bus stop (complete with current schedule) is a fun surprise for climbers when they reach the summit. 

The European Alps cover an area a bit larger than the Canadian Rockies and a bit smaller than our Coast Range, yet somehow they feel much bigger than either. Because the Alps are amply developed with roads, trains, cable cars and huts, hikers and climbers can access many more nooks, crannies and hard-toreach places in the mountains. The Europeans love their Alps. The German Alpine Club has almost one mil‑ lion members, 325 huts and 180 climbing gyms. The Austrian Alpine Club has half a million members, almost 250 huts and it maintains 26,000 kilometres of trails. I thought it might feel crowded in the Alps, but, because you can easily get to

so many more places, people tend to be spread out. Of course, as in Canada and the U.S.A., the most popular mountains, trails and climbing routes have crowds at certain times of the year. A visit to the Alps is also highly recommended! I’ve come to realize that no matter where we are in the world, no matter how different our cultures and histories, the love of mountains immediately gives us something in common and builds a bridge. Members of The Alpine Club of Canada are part of a worldwide mountain community that is varied and interesting. We bring our own unique mountain culture to the table, and it is something we can be proud of.

Read about more of Nancy’s adventures on the ACC blog at www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/blog and check out potential member benefits at theuiaa.org/Member-Mountain-Hut-Exchange.html

La Via Del Sale – The Salt Path

A very ancient trail in Northern Italy, used since ancient times to carry salt to the rich interior plains. Choose between an 8 or 9 day journey into history, civilization and, of course, food—the base of the trail’s very existence. Travellers will enjoy beautiful scenery, unforgettable views, silence, and uncontaminated nature during the walk from Piedmont towards the Ligurian Sea. Small groups of 6 or 7 people to better enjoy the experience, enhanced by comfortable typical accommodations and supported by van.

www.letswalkitaly.com

30  The Alpine Club of Canada

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Winter 2016

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Himalaya, Aconcagua, Africa & Seattle Glacier School Climbing and walking trips for men and women with Dan Mazur. All ages and abilities, expert to novice. Everest summit climbs, training climbs and treks. Mount Elbrus, Ama Dablam, Cho Oyu, Baruntse, North Col, Lhotse, Everest Glacier School, Island Peak, Muztagh Ata, Mera Peak, Shishapangma, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya. Charity Service Walks near Everest, Seattle Glacier School during summer and Canada-USA Friendship winter climbing school (free, no charge). www.SummitClimb.com Facebook.com/SummitClimbers [email protected] Follow our progress on current expedi‑ tions updated daily on our blog at: www.SummitClimbNews.com Interested in becoming a mountain guide? Checkout: www.leaderintraining.com !

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NOTICES STAY ON TOP OF THE NEWS Subscribe to the ACC NewsNet, our weekly e-bulletin, to receive ACC national and regional news, mountain highlights and much more. Subscribe at www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/newsnet

CANADIAN ALPINE JOURNAL SUBMISSIONS Deadline for submitting articles for the upcoming CAJ is February 1, 2017. For more information, visit: www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/caj

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Le Club Alpin du Canada

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