Eighteen Years in the Khyber I 879 1898
October 30, 2017 | Author: Anonymous | Category: N/A
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E I G H T EE N YE A RS I N
KH YB E R
TH E
1 87 9
1
898
BY C OL ONE L
WARBURTON
,
WIT H
P O RT RAIT S ,
M AP
,
AND
IL L U ST RAT IO NS
L OND ON
JOH N
M U RRAY
,
ALB E MARL E 1 900
S T RE E Tx
TO
RE A D E R
TH E
even the m a nuscript of these p a ges could be m a de re a dy for press by the AUTHOR the pen droppe d for ever from the we a ried h a nd which held it M ar ve l l o u s men ta l a ctivity a n d a firm powerful will ha d helped to sust a in the W ell knit but slender fra me of ROBERT WARBURT ON through ne a rly thirty seven ye a rs of Indi an service the l a tter h alf of which w a s p a ssed in the a lmost d a ily worry c a re a n d a nxiety insep a ra ble from the gu a rdi a nship of the import a nt post which ha d been intrusted to his ch a rge—th a t of the f a mous an d once dre a ded Khyber P a ss H OW well he fulfi lled th a t trust is on offi ci a l record a n d Will h a ve its l a sting pl a ce in the history of British rule in India These p a ges give in his ow n simple l a ngu a ge the modest story during ye a rs of lonely exile of duty done under m a ny diffi culties a n d often under m a n y depressing influences SIR ROBE RT WARBURTON never thought of writing a book until the ide a w a s a roused in his mind by a kin dl y hint given by His Roy a l Highness the P RINCE OF WALE S BEF ORE
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TO THE REA D ER
gr a ciously permitted this volume to b e dedic a ted to himself The w ork w a s then com m en ce d with SIR RoBERT s ch a r a cteristic energy of will but the insidious dise a se from which a t times he ha d su ffered in Indi a a n d which bec a me i mten s ifi e d during the tr ying m a rches a n d l a bours of the Tir a h c a mp aign ha d a lre a dy begun its f a t a l inro a ds and the end quickly c a me Returning from the E a st in full hope of future employme n t either in Engl a nd or a s he would h a ve preferred it on the Frontier a g a in a mongst the wild tribesmen w ho obeyed a n d loved him he c a me home only to die His s a d untimely f a te ha s brought to his widow m a ny friends Whom she would desire to th a nk here for their expressio n s of condolence a n d their kindly efforts to lighten the burden of her sorrow & a bove a ll she would humbly express her gr a titude to th a t A ugust L a dy in whose service her husb a n d died the Q UEEN E M P RE S S OF I ND IA w ho from her o w n widowed he a rt sent w ords of tenderest symp a thy to
w ho
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I N T ROD U C T ORY
work is presented a s the AUTH OR wrote it ret a ining his o w n m ethod of a rr a ngement a s reg a rds the Ch a pters a n d the spelling of Orient a l n a mes of men a n d pl a ces If the person a l element ha s been kept much in the b a ckground a n d little beyond records of public or o ffi ci a l incidents a re given of the lonely a n d trying life led by him a mongst the wild men of the Frontier the expl a n a tion is th a t SIR R OBE RT WARB U RT ON did not wish to write merely his reminiscences but of his pr a ctic a l work a s W a rden of the Khyber for ne a rly eighteen ye a rs He desired to give a n a ccount of th a t Stewa rdship Before he w a s a ppointed to its ch a rge the Khyber P a ss w a s the most d a ngerous pl a ce on the N W Frontier of Indi a — dre a ded by even A fgh a n tr a ders a n d closed to a ll others The st a te of the rel a tions between the Government of Indi a a n d the tr a ns frontier tribes w a s described in April 18 7 7 in a Minute by L ORD LYTT ON then Viceroy a n d Governor Gener a l to the Secret a ry of St a te for Indi a a s follows I believe th a t our North Western Frontier presents a t this m oment a spect a cle unique in the world ; a t le a s t I THIS
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[8]
IN TROD U CTORY
know of no other spot where a fter twenty fi v e ye a rs of pe a ceful occup a tion a gre a t civilised Power ha s obt a ined so little influence over its semi s a v a ge neighbours a n d a cquired so little knowledge of them th a t the country within a d a y s ride of its most im port a nt g a rrison ( Pesh a wa r) is a n a bsolute term in cog m m a n d th a t there is a bsolutely no security for British life a mile or two beyond our border From the da te of his fi rst a ppointment on the Frontier C OL ONEL WARBURT ON set himself to remedy this st a te of things a n d during the whole period of his control of the Khyber th a t dre a ded P a ss w a s kept open for tra ffic or tra vel without a single E u rope a n soldier or Sepoy being st a tioned in it beyond Ja mrud a n d when he g a ve over ch a rge it w a s a s s a fe a highwa y a s a ny in Indi a The c a uses which brought a bout the trib a l rising in August 1897 a n d necessit a ted the Tir a h c a mp a ign need not be referred to here beyond mentioning th a t it w a s C OL ONEL WARBU RT ON S fi rm belief th a t no a tt a ck on the posts of the Khyber would h a ve been success ful ha d his services been utilised a t once immedi a tely a fter he ha d expressed to the Govern m ent his rea d i ness to return to duty in reply to the offi ci al telegr am t o which he refers in his ch a pter on The Khyber D é b ac le a s h a ving been received a n d a nswered by him on August 1 3 1897 He ha d in the month of June previous written to one of the Secret a ries of Government th a t a strong w a ve of M a homm ed a n f a n a tici s m w a s p a ssing over the Frontier a n d he w a s -
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I NTROD U CTORY
[ 9]
informed in reply th a t our politic a l success in the M a l a kha n d in Sw a t a n d Dir ha s broken the b a ck of Mull a h fa n a ticism for ever 1 Nevertheless when the storm burst in A ugust a nd he w a s re a dy a n d most st a y the evil a n xious to return to the Khyber to Mull a h influence which he knew would be exerted t here his services were not c a lled for until ten d a ys It w a s then a fter he ha d tendered the o fi e r of them too l a te On August 2 3 the Khyber posts were a d a y not in a ptly described a s a tt a cked a n d t a ken one of sh a me a n d humili a tion for the British a u t ho How bitterly the old W a rden of the Khyber rit ie s felt th a t blow m a y be g a thered from an extr a ct from a priv a te letter which he then wrote to a friend in Engl a nd & My mind is very he a vy over this hideous di s a ster which I feel could h ave been st a ved off even up to the d a y of mischief It m a kes me quite s a d to think ho w e a sily the l a bour of ye a rs —of a lifetime —c a n be ruined a n d destroyed in a few da ys The h a rd work of the Tir a h c a mp a ign which followed the exposure a n d fa tigue coupled with unce a sing a tt a ck s of dysentery m a y be s a id to h a ve undermined his bodily strength a n d fi n a lly to h a ve c a used his de a th—but the loss of the Khyber a fter his fa ithful gu a rdi a nship of so m a ny ye a rs preyed most he a vily upon his mind It is no ex a ggera tion to s a y th a t it broke his he a rt ,
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C H AP TE R I
FAT H ER
MY
18 3 0 1 86 3 -
M y fa he —H is a p po m tm e n t t o B e n a l A ll e , 183 0—A a ched t o Sha h Shuj a h s C o n n e n , 1839—M a 1e s n ec e o f D os M u ha m m a d ha n—I n su ec on a t C a u b u l , 1 84 1—B ecom es o n e o f t he ho s a e s t o t he Af ha n S a d a s — M y m o he s d a n e s a n d es c a es — M l s —Sc hoo l a t M u s s oo ie a n d Ke n d e a a y s n on —Addis com b e a n d ool w ch—G a e e d t o Ro a l Ar i l l e i an d o s e d t o P a n a b —M y fa he s d e a h
t r
’
gt p t
K tg
p
ry
g
ti g t rr ti g y W
j
rti ry rr i
r r
i t r
t
’
tt
t r r
z tt
t
gr
’
t ry
y
.
C H AP TE R I I AB Y S
S INI A —P A N JAB 186 3 —1 87 0
i l tr b l —Tr f rr d t B g l St ff C rp — P t d t 2 l t P j b I f try—Ab y m i m p ig —Tr p rt d —I v l id d t E gl d —M ri g C mm ri t p ri h S k h —App i t d t R t r t I d i —With 15 t h L d i P j b C mm i i —A i t t C m m i i r tP hw r
F i n a nc
ou
a
o
iss a
e u n
an a
o
e
n an
an a
s
a ns e
es
a
n
o
ex
e
en
o
an
ss
e n ces
n
a
u
a
s s on
s s s an
a
a
ca
e
n
a
i
os e
an
ar
a
es
a
o
an
o
o n e
s
s s on e
o
s
an s
n
o
an a
o
a
e
o
a
C H AP TE R III
I
CR M E
IN
T HE
P A NJAB
1 87 0
tt p i i g
C a le
o s on n
r
A
son
—M ur d e r C HAP TE R I V PE
S H AWAR
18 7 0—18 7 2
Lif
P e sha w a r —H u nti n g s hooti ng C a v a gn a ri~ V is it o f M r W H
e at
to
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ha w k n — In Sm i h, M P , t o
a nd
t
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tr
od uc
ti
Jamru d
on
CONTENT S
r r f M j r M d ld —C l l S dy—F t d t —C ri f t lity f ll w i g Shri K p r —F r d ri k M k —A d d m i dd l m Jirg f b w r thi v —D i pp r d t —H r M u de
o
en
ac
a o
ou s
u
a a
a s an
a
a
o
es
e
sa
n
o
en
e
o on e
on a
on
e
c
ea a nc e o
a
e
ne
an
ee
e son
ac
pl i pr ph y ity f P h t li g
a al
oa
’
e
u
rn a s er
s
ac
o o
o
a cc
ec
es
o
n
o se s ea
C H AP TE R V
N
M ARD A
—
18 7 2 187 9
i ti g t Y fz i—Th C rp f G i d —Aj b Kh —Bri f l y lty —Th r r—Z id ll Kh h t ry f hi S t rm y p tr l f th fr ti r Pl d i p rm t h rg f f B Y fz i— A ziz Kh W d w —R i d w l S d m i t h P h w r V ll y —Aj b Kh il l g C m pli t i tri l d m ti t d th d ti —E p d iti g i t Mi R k f S pri — f I khak t d p i hm t f S rpri f Th k th Kh l — f G v r m t—C h r t ri ti U tm
Offi c
n
a
is o
o
e
o
e
a
a
es
,
ca e e
s
’
an s
co n u
a
e
na
e
on
o
u o
a
u
an
e s
an
o
n
e
an
,
se
s
a
a
x
e n
o
o
a
u
an
’
an s
on
a ns
a
en
un s
en
u
a
e
o
e
on
e
a
o
c
a s
e
‘
e
on
s
o
a
un e r
e x e cu
o
an
a
a n en
o
es
e
ea
an s
a
o
n
es
’
a ce
i
on s
ca
o
m
u
a
-
e
o
s
u
a
on
e
o
e
a
a
usu
v
us u
a
a ac e
s
o
cs o
C a va g na ri
C H AP TE R VI
K HYBE R
AND
JE L AL L ABAD
1 87 9—1 882
ith Afgh i t —Wigr m B tty —Tr ty f G d m l; M r f C g i d M i i —Am ir Y k b Kh —R i d d m r d r —P itiv p d iti —Si k l v t E gl d
Wa r
w
an s an
as s a c e
an
u
o
n ar
a va
un
e
an
e ex
s
a
a
ea
s s on
a
on
e
c
ea
an
o
o
e
a
a
an
u
n
a
an
C H AP TE R VII RE T
U RN
To
T HE
K
—
H Y BE R
1 882 1884
Khyb r R g —Ab d ll tr g —M A i t t —F r b t r I m pr v m t i t h Khyb r —Th k il l i g f M l ik N r ll i
M a l ks
of
t he
s s s an
o
n
e
o
an e
e
ee
n
en s
ou
oo e
Nur
a
ur d e
es
a
e
u u
a
u
e
e
r
Am
—Tr of
ir
e a c he
pt i d Shi
Ca
an
ry
a n
Fu
nw a
tiv lf r d Na
of
e
o
ri —Th s
e
a
C H AP TE R VI II T HE
DU
K
E
A ND
AND
D ucHE s s
T HE
AM
’
OF C ONNAU G H T S
IR S VI S IT S ’
1 884 4 885
i K
vr
j t
—Thr
t t h t Li t t G v r r i g Am ir thr gh t h Khyb r Th k f
I n s ol e n ce of Am n ha n —Ta k n o f t he P a n a b G o e n m en
e a en s
o s
ou
oo
e u en a n
e
e
-
-
o
e no
an
s
o
P AG E
13 [ ]
C ONTE NTS C H AP TE R I X H H .
ABD
.
RAH M AN
UR
K H AN
1 88 5
H is
t t w ith Ay b Kh —Ri i g b l d r hi rul
C au
un
u
an
u
c on es s
e
s
s n
i
Sh nw a
s of
ri
G hil
s an d
P AGE
zi
a s
e
C H A P TE R X
K HYB E R
IN T H E
—
18 86 1888
ri i vill g r —D i p l f th ir w id w —Sh ti g t p f th r b y L r d R b rt — M lit ry Th Am ir l ph t— I p ti rv y ~— ti f w t r pply—D b r t P h w r—L r d Q vi it D ff i
Af d
e s
a
’
e
e
su
s
’
o
osa
n s ec
on o
a e
n
oo
s
o
e
an
e e
ue s
s
er n s
u
s
on
o
o
ar a
-s u
a s e e
a
s
e
i
a
a
a
es
a
-
o
s
C H AP TE R X I T HE
UR
K HYBE R
I K S AND C AM P A I G N
OF T H E
TO
M AL
K
T HE BL AC
U NT AIN
MO
1 888
J r ydw try—Sight i g t C l tt —T l gr ph pri —B mb y—F ir t vi w f th —R t r id K r hi I r d l ity f fri d — M lik Khw Kh —Th U ll W ll m p ig —G ll tr y ti Bl k M f Khy b r ifi m Vi it f G r l d Si Ch rl D ilk t L d i K t l —A h w ki g p ty ou n e
coun
n
o
o
se s
u
nc e
a
s
n
a
an
an
an
a
r
e e
e
a
a ac
e
e
r
’
e
en
e
an
o
s ur
us
o
es
a
a
e u n C
sea
as
n
a
a cu
a
e
o
a
ca
en e a s
o
s
e
en s
o
oun a n
ac
se e n
o a
ar
C H AP TE R X II
SH IL M A N
T HE
ROU T E
1889
i g—Khw Kh pri r—L if t L d i d hild r — L rd L K t l — i ri d w i th Khyb r— r p r —Fighti g m g t Shi w ri —G z tt d
D i fficulti e s o a
e
C SI O
J
r
in oa d -m a k n Sh nw a w om en G and a ad e
an a
as
an
s one
en
c
n
a ns
o
n
on s
a
e a
a
o
an
ne
s
n
e
a e
e
.
C H AP TE R XIII T HE V
The
Prin ce
at
I S IT
INC E
Jamrud —D ecor
1890 a
ti
p t—Cr ti g Zi r t—Gr S pri l t Ay b Kh — Gri f t t h f th Sh h w s
ea
o
sa u es
e
a
n
u
e ne
a
an
s o
e
on of e
se an
a
za
Na
tiv
—An hi t ri Pi d i — Pri
e ofi cers
s o
r vi w t R w l d d l ight f th Khy b r M lik d d th
and
a a
ur
I
AL BE RT V C TOR
OF P R
e
e
’
a s
a
o
ea
a
e
a
n e
c
nce
a
s
C H AP TE R X IV T HE
CA
U B U L RI VE R S U RV E Y 1 890 1 891
tr ty f G d m k—T k i d H li i —Opp iti t v y p rty—Ad v t g f T S pp r—Of fi f t h Riv r R il y S rv y —D ily tri b l it r —Sh hi d M i —L lw —T b Mi t Att k C m p f E r i —C m m d r C hi f d Q t rm t r G r l id thr gh t h Khyb r ith t rt—M ir z i m p ig ~ F t l i d t r Ab mm B t h ffi r fi r d t —Khyb r Rifl d
T he
ea
s ur
e
a
an
ri i s
as e
an
e
ce s
o
o
oc
ua r e
e s co
za s an
a
e s ni e n a
ri
ou
es
a
e
u
e
a ra
an a
a na
w
a
a
-
wa
a
an
o
a
o r-
a
Vis
o s
a
o
e
a ra
an
o
ou
e
-
ih
e
a cc
e s co
o
e
ana
e
a a
e
a
ce rs
x e c se
r
on
os
a
n
a
ca
a
o
en e a
-
ni z a s
a
en
an
e
n ea
u
.
C H AP TER X V AM
IN KH AN
’
S
R
I S IN G
K k i Kh l f ti r ffi —Am i Kh d H y d r Kh —S rk i ir Kh —Tir h M ll h —I trig d b l d f d —M r d r f A m tr b l —Am i Kh tt k—R p l d r tr t—F r i tl E r p bt i i t t —F i d lity f Khyb r d v r t — M l ik d Jirg V it r t T S pp r d L mb K t l L rd R b t fi l it t h Khyb r u
eu
oo
ou
en
a
O
u
e
ou s
o
an
s
ea n
V is
o s
o
to
e
u
u se
e
an
e
ue a n u
ea
e
e ss
e
o
an
a
a
a
a
n
s
a
a ss s an
or -
an
e
a
ac
u o
is
na
o er s s
a
a n
as
’
o
an
o
an s
o
an a n
n
c e rs
’
n
e
ea
e
ro n
e
a
o a
e
C H AP TE R X VI ON L EAV E
IND IA
IN
1 893 — 1894
t k l v t E r p —At M rr —Afr d fri m r d r v g d —V d M i i —A k b r Kh Th D r d r m y r l v pp i tm S m l — S rr d r Khyb r—E tr r d i ry p l m ti —M C j r rt him thr gh th P —L rd E lgi b l— E C N gl t d l tt r i ity
I na b l
to
e
s co
ec e
e
e
’
ea
na
u
’
an s
a
o ne
e
ao
x
u
au e
en
u
a
i
u o
o
s s on
u an
e
e
ea
e
a
e
ea
s
roc a
esu
r
i
en
a
e
an
e
e
o n
a
u rz o n s
.
e nd s
i
’
a ss
e
ou
u
on
a
ee
it t t yt it
o
en
in
ou n e
o
’
n s
o
is
Vi s
e s
C H AP TE R X VI I
Y E ARS
FIN AL
IN T HE
KH Y B ER
1895 1897 -
Kh —M d r f Kh i d Am i gh t th Khyb r— C pt B rt Kh —I m pr v m t th — — h r t i k T Vi it f W L pp r S S Th m t m t pp hi g r t r m t B M i i —M y ppr d r y D m r ti t k m y p l —G d b y l—Om i l ffi r t E r p N my r t m t tifi ti itr l tr
Ch
a
ou b l e s o
an
en
o
a
a
O
u o
ca
en s
e
ea n
on s o n
a ca
o
an
r
.
ss on
on
ce
ou
ro u
o
s
e
oun
no
—Na srul l a
o
e i re
a
en
e
ur e
o
e
oc
e
a t
a
ac e
an
a ra
o
oa c
n
ai n
a
a
or -
a
n
e i e
oo
-
e
'
on s
a
e
en
c a
1 [ 5]
C ONTENTS
CH A P TE R XVIII
KHYB E R
T HE
D EB AC L E
1897
Khyb e in M a y 1 897 —No eal Afr di r e an ce ur s en a t C a u b ul —Pre ac hin o f a Glmz w Sa ya d Ak b a r—The ‘ Ha d da M ull a h M ull ah an d t he M a d A a ck on Sha h Ka dda r Q u e s o n o f m y re -e m l oym e n t A o n te d t o Pol t c al S ta ff of Sir W L o ckha t A t ac ks on D arg a —The Tirah ma d e n—W h em s t e s B ig a d e C ol d ca m aig n n —D e a h o f Sir H H a el o ck All an F a hful Afr di o de l es
ti f t y diti f th g i v —T k i h Ag t
Sa
s ac o r
co n
on o
r
e
g
— ti
ii
i
p ig r ri
.
p
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I LL U TRA TION S
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PRINC E AL BE RT VI C T O R S C O RT EGE AL I M A S JID JAN 3 1 ’
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1890
O BERT W
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ID L O RD RO R S H ON M I SS RO N P R Y H ON F R D RI C K RO R S CO A S M KH N S R RO B R WAR U R ON L I U SO WARS KH Y ER RIFL S AF RIDI S F O RT J M RUD KH FB R RIFL E S E
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2
M Y FA THER
CE
I
for his children an d took his fa mily to the south of Fr a nce pl a cing my f a ther a n d his brother at the College of Angers Here both boys succeeded in a cquiring a complete comm a nd of the French l a n gu a ge a n d they rem a ined perfect m a sters of th a t tongue during their lifetime But their e a rly tra in ing or wa nt of it ra ther a n d their wild Irish n a tures m a de them a terror to the French students a n d much of a trouble to the kind homely p a stors a n d t utors who ha d to look a fter their intellectu a l a n d mora l tra ining Getting a nomin a tion to Ad dis c om b e my fa ther a fter a course of t w o ye a rs study there w a s a ppointed to the Beng a l Artillery in 183 0 In those d a ys a voya ge to In di a w a s not a light undert a king a n d the vessel in which m y fa ther set s a il occupied 14 3 da ys on the p a ss a ge from London to C a lcutt a The B eng a l A rtillery he a dqu a rters were then loc a ted a t Dum Dum a n d my fa ther rem a ined there for a considera ble time But h aving left no record of his priv a te life a n d a ll hi s a ssoci a tes of those e a rly d a ys h avi ng long a g o p a ssed a w a y I know nothing of his life for severa l y e a rs except th a t he p a ssed the Interpreter s test in Hindust a ni which secured for him one or two offi ci a ting a ppointments a n d g a ve hi m a n incre a se of p ay Wh en the a rmy of the Indus w a s formed in 183 9 for the purpose of pl a cing Sh a h Shu j a h u l Mulk on the throne of Afgh a nist a n my fa ther w a s a tt a ched to the a rtillery of the Sh a h s contingent a n d took p a rt in all the opera tions of the c a mp a ign inclu di ng the storming of Ghu z ni for which he received the m eda l a n d cl a sp After the ev a cu a tion of Afgh a nist a n on the close ,
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M Y F A TH ER S ’
1830 50 -
M A RRI A GE
3
of the c am p aign only the troops which were thought suffic ient to support Sh a h Shuj a h s c a use were left in th a t country My f a ther rem a ined in ch a rge of the Sh a h s a rtillery a n d w a s const a ntly eng aged with his guns in fighting rebels a n d keeping order in the Kohi st a n an d other hill tra cts But all w a s where the wives of a pp a rently pe a ceful a t C a ubul the English o fficers a n d soldi ers rem a inin g in Afgh a n ist a n ha d a rrived to j oin their husb a nds In November 184 0 my fa ther fell in love with a niece of the a n d m a rried a noble Af gh a n l a dy Am ir Dost Muh a mm a d the witnesses t o the m ar riag e ceremony being Sir A Burnes Colonels Sturt The m a rri a ge certifi c a te cont aining a n d Jenkins their sign a tures a n d which is in my possession now is a curious document M a tters contin u ed seemingly quiet a t C a ubul an d Sh ah Shuj ah fi rmly pl a ced until September 1841 when di squieting rumours of plots a n d dis a ffection beg an to be circul a ted Muh a mm a d Akb a r Kh a n Amin ull a Kh a n Ab d ull a Kh a n a n d other Afgh a n chiefs were then in fa ct prep a ring their countrymen for the outburst of th a t storm whi ch in the end destroyed of our fi ghting men an d followers between C a ubul a n d F ut t ehab a d le a ving only on e solit ary Englishma n — Dr Brydon —t o esc a pe to tell the story to the bele a guered g a rrison of Jel all ab a d On Septem ber 28 Colonel Oliver, co m m a n di ng the 5 t h N I , w a s sent w ith a l a rge force from C a ub ul into Turm a t to punish a robber chief n a med Ak ram Kh an My fa ther with his guns a ccomp a nied this force Akra m Kh a n w a s secured a n d executed But troubles bre a king ou t in the vicinity of the c a pit a l ,
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Colonel O liver a nd his troops were h a stily rec alled by Sir W M a cn a ght en ; a n d in re a lity it w as time for them to be b a ck to C a ubul where events were ripening On the night of Nov with the gre a test celerity ember 1 184 1 a respect a ble Afgh a n n a med T aj Muh a mm a d went in person to the house of Sir Al ex a nder B urnes who w a s living in the city of C a ubul a n d w a rned him th a t insurrection w a s a bout to bre a k out ; but his report w a s not credited an d the m a n went a w a y hurt a n d disgusted The next d a y wh a t w a s considered incre d ible re al ly h a ppened A bout three hundred men a tt a cked the dwellings of Sir A Burnes of C a pt a in Johnson p a ym a ster to the Sh a h s force of C a pt a in Troup a n d the residence occupied by my fa ther Finding Sir A Burnes unwilling t o fi re on the mob when they fi rst a ppe a red on the scene the numbers soon incre a sed an d their violence a lso Sir A Burnes his brother Lieuten a nt B urnes of the Bomb a y a rmy Lieuten a nt Willi a m B ro a dfoot of the Beng a l Europe a n Regim ent with a n d every m a n wom a n a n d chil d a ll their escort found on the premises were m a ss a cred Rs of the public money were plundered a n d the houses mentioned were burnt to the groun d C a pt a ins Johnson a n d T roup a n d m y fa ther h a ppened to be in C a ntonments on the mornin g of this insurrection an d lost everything ; my mother esc aped a n d took refuge with her friends an d people The story of th a t dis a strous time need not be more th a n referred to here Before G enera l Elphin soldiers a n d s tone a n d hi s a rmy of c a mp followers were permitted by the Afgh a n chiefs t o le a ve C a ntonments an d proceed from C a ubul towa rds J el all ab a d six host a ges ha d to be delivered over to .
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M OTHER S
MY
1880 6 0
D A NC ERS A ND E
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S C APES
5
the Afgh a n S a rd ars for the fulfi lment of cert a in pledges on the p a rt of the Eng lish ofiicia l s These host a ges were C a pt a ins Airey Conolly Drummond , Wa lsh Webb an d my f a ther My fa ther 8 house w a s burnt down on November 2 184 1 a n d my mother ha d to t a ke refuge with her friends a n d rel a tions For months the troopers of S a rd a r Muh amm a d Akb a r Kh a n followed in pursuit of her They se a rched houses a n d qu a rters where she w a s supposed to be sheltered thrusting in a ll di rections with their l a nces a n d swords trying to fin d out her hi ding pl a ce She ha d often to run a wa y from one house thus tre a ted to t a ke shelter in a nother but a merciful Providence a ssisted the young wife in esc a ping from a ll the se d a ngers If the pursuit w a s strong a n d the a nimosity of Akb a r Kh a n gre a t th a t Providence produced friends who helped a n d sheltere d her through a ll her tri a ls a n d vicissitudes r a nging from November 2 1 8 4 1 to September 2 0 184 2 when she w a s at length a ble to j oin her husb a nd with her son myself born in a Ghilz a i fort between J a g d a ll a k a n d Gan d a m a k on Jul y 11 184 2 Few w ives a n d m others h a ve ever experienced such a terrible eleven m onths of d a ngers .
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On returning to India a fter the close of the fi rst Afgh an w a r my f a ther s b a ttery w as st a tioned a t Sipri where he w a s j oined by my m other wi th her infa nt son—myself I w a s too young to ret a in a n y recollections Of Sip ri except of two episodes one of my being ne a rly killed by a fa ll from m y pony— a ’
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sc a r three qu a rters of a n inch in length over my left eye still m a rks the res ul t of th a t d a y s ride a n d the other of m y setting fi re to our bung a low by dis ch a rging a mini a ture bra ss gun which ha d been presented to m y f a ther a fter the b a ttle of M a h a r a j pore by his old friend a n d brother o ffi cer the l a te Sir Vincent Eyre A bit of lighted ch a rco a l used for fi ring this toy we a pon w a s blown upon the dry th a tched roof which immedi a tely burst into fl a me a n d in spite of a ll ende a vours to extinguish the fi re the house w a s burned down a n d h a rdly a nyt hing s a ved From Sipri the b a ttery w a s moved to Mora r a nce Gw lior n there I m de the cqu int of a d a a a a ( ) sever a l o fficers of the B eng a l Artillery only one of whom is now a live —the g a ll a nt honoured a n d popul a r Sir Willi a m Olp hert s V C My pl a ym a tes a t Gw a lior were the Hennessys whose fa ther comm a nded a regiment of the Con tingent The sons h a ve a ll turned out splendid sol di ers On e of them — George— comm a nded the 15 th Sikhs during the A fgh a n w a r of 18 7 8—80 a n d He is still h a le w a s their chief a t M c Ne ill s z a reb a a n d he a rty a n d quite fi t to comm a nd a brig a de or a division in a n y c amp a ign In 185 0 my f a ther a fter a gre a t de a l of oppo s it io n on my mother s p a rt pl a ced me a t a school a t Mussoorie which school ha d just been st a rted by the Rev Robert North M a ddock a n excellent cl a ssic Such a school w a s then a n d a strict disciplin a ri a n gre a tly wa nted in the Hills a n d m a n y officers gl a dly a v a iled themselves of it a n d sent their sons to be tra ined under M a ddock His method of enforcing discipline w a s a very pra ctic a l one Ne a r the school -
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SCH OOL
1850-6 8
AT
7
MU SS OORIE
house there grew clumps of fin e thin young b a mboo s c alled by the n a tives ring a l ls a n d these when pro perly trimmed a n d shorte n ed m a de most excellent which when l a id on a boy s a n d flexible r a tt a ns person with j udgme n t a n d strength ( a n d Ma ddock possessed both) cre a ted a sensible impression Our worthy m a ster considered th a t a mora l impression w a s further produced by sending out the o ffender knife in h a nd to cut a n d bring in the s a mple for hi s I ha d a n experience of seven ye a rs o w n fi a g e ll a t io n of de a r old M a ddock a n d his impressive ring a lls but I c a n look b a ck with a ffection a n d respect upon his memory He w as returning to Engl a nd a fter m a ny ye a rs of h a rd a n d p a tient school work a t Mussoorie when a n a tt a ck of sm a llpox brought his useful life to a n end From Gw a lior my fa ther w a s ordered to Amrits a r to t a ke comm a nd of a n a tive fi eld b a ttery The P a nj a b ha d been l a tely a nnexed a n d it w a s con s id e re d desir a ble to loc a te a g a rrison a t Am rits a r In those d a ys John Comp a ny pitched upon a c a n t o n m en t fi xed its g a rrison but the o ffi cers ha d to build their own h a bit a tions Our house a t Am rits a r ha d j ust been fi nished a t a gre a t expense a n d a l a rge sized g a rden well l a id ou t when a n order c a me for the b a ttery to m a rch to Nu s s ira b a d My fa ther who ha d then spent twenty six ye a rs continuous service in the E a st without a single d a y s le a ve to Europe resolved to a pply for two ye a rs furlough a n d to t a ke me with him to Engl a nd t o complete my educ a tion On December 1 185 6 I b a de a dieu to the Rev R N M a ddock a n d his school at Gr a nt Lodge Mussoorie an d w a s t a ken by my f a ithful old be a rer to L u d ia n a h to a w a it my fa ther s ,
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8 a
M Y F A TH ER
rriva l
a
fter he
Nus sira b a d
ha d
on
delivered over his b a ttery
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the loc a lity where the sons of Sh a h whose Shuj ah ul Mulk ex Amir of A fgh a nist a n a rtillery contingent my f a ther ha d been a tt a ched to ha d t a ken shelter a ft er their retre at from C a ubul subsequent to the dis a sters of the Afgh a n w ar of Wh a tever m a y h a ve been their public 42 183 9— fa ilings I w as not old enough to j udge in those d a ys , but the kindn ess of some of them to me c a rried over a series of ye a rs w a s a lwa ys of the s a me uniform ch a ra cter I w a s not deb a rred from going inside their ha re m s em is a n d my knowledge of the Persi an spoken by the S a d d oz ai a n d B a r a kz a i rulers of A fgh a nist a n permitted me to converse with the wives Of a ll the Sha hz a d a s with the gre a test e a se a n d fluency There were t w o brothers Sh a hz a d a Sh ahp ur a n d Sh a hz a d a N a dir the y oungest sons of the nn for t un a t e Sh a h Shuj a h ul Mulk who p a rticul a rly took my fa ncy For resign a tion in the midst of their troubles for gentleness to a ll who were brought in cont a ct with them a n d for a lofty reg a rd for the feelings a n d wishes of others I h a ve seldom seen fi ner types Of the true gentlem a n th a n those two brothers The elder w a s in receipt of a pension of Rs 500 a n d the younger of Rs 100 a month from the Indi a n Government—sm a ll sums indeed with whi ch to bring up their f a milies a nd support the number of a ncient servitors w ho ha d been driven out of house a nd home a t C a ubul a n d ha d followed the fortunes of this roy a l f ami ly into the he a t a n d pl a ins of In di a At Agr a I b a de f a rewell to my mother a n d all our old ret a iners an d proceeded with my fa ther in a L u di an ah w a s -
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M Y FA TH ER
on
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comp a nion in those e arly esc a p a des which were the terror a n d sorrow of the French p a stors a n d tutors They now met a fter a sep a r a tion of twenty seven ye a rs a n d were un a ble to recognise e a ch other & Within a fe w d a ys a fter our a rriv a l in London I w a s sent t o the Kensington Gra mm a r School then under the c a re a n d ch a rge of the Rev G Frost At th a t time Kensington Gra mm a r School bore a gre a t a n d wide reput a tion a mongst p a rents in Indi a It ha d a speci a l cl a ss for the sons of civili a ns a n d milit a ry offi cers o ffering a sound an d technic a l educ a tion very suit able for the w a nts of both services in the country under the control of John Comp a ny B a h a dur It ha d a splen di d m a them a tici a n in the Rev G Frost It ha d produced some fi n e schol a rs including the g a ll a nt a n d bra ve Quintin B a t t ye whose young life w a s brought to a glorious close in the ch a rge of the Guides before Delhi Dulce e t de corum est pro p a tri a mori ha s ever been the motto of the B at t ye fa mily There w a s a good he a lthy tone a bout the boys who were fond of a ll m a nl y sports One of the directors of the school w a s Sir Henry Willock a lso a director of the E a st In di a Comp a ny who every ye a r generously g a ve a c a detship to be competed for with the obj ect no doubt of m a king the school more a ttr a ctive B efore my fa ther re turned to Indi a a t the beginning of the ye a r 186 0 he ha d the s a tisf a ction of knowing th a t his son ha d m a n a ged to secure the very l a st of these Willock c a detships But being a n old Artillerym a n he w a s m ost a nxious th a t I should j oin the s a me service a s himself a n d two months a fter my fi rst success I tried my luck a t the Open competition for the R A My fi rst venture w a s a fa ilure a n d R E for Indi a .
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A PPOI NTED TO ROY A L A RTI LLERY
1850-6 3
in both events in this wise & I fa iled to secure the proper number of m a rks in French for the R A a n d R E a n d Professor C a pe who ha d given me full m a rks for my m a them a tics a t the Willock competi tion a t Kensington plucked me for a very e a sy bit in L a tin when I a ppe a red before him a t A d dis com b e However in the second a ttempt I w a s successful in both issues but w a s not permitted to give a wa y the Willock c a detship which l a psed a n d w a s of no e a rthly use to a nyone After one term a t Add is c om b e a n d two a t the Roy a l Milit a ry A c a demy Woolwich I received my commission in the Roy a l Regiment of Artill ery on December 18 186 1 ; an d a fter fiv e months duty a t Sheerness three weeks of which were spent a t the A rmstrong gunnery course Shoeburyness I received orders t o s a il with dra fts for the E a st Indies My new comm a nder w as C a pt a in Sir Willi a m H a milton B art of the l a te B eng al Artillery an d the fi rs t sub a ltern Lieuten a nt M a ckie j ust three ye a rs senior to me There were a bout 15 0 men a n d three o fii cers We were emb a rked a t Gra vesend on bo a rd the s a il ~ ing ship S t L a w rence a very fi n e vessel comm a nded by one of the best men of the d a y Comm a nder Joseph Toynbee In due time we a nchored in T a ble B a y a n d s a w the s a d h a voc c a used by a sou wester which ha d wrecked sever a l l a rge ships on the tre a cherous shore a sho rt time before our a rriv a l Within two d a ys we ourselves were driven out by a sou e a ster a n d for the next forty eight hours ha d to br a ve the fury of an exceedingly severe hurric a ne but the S t L a w ren ce being a n ew vessel with one of the most skilful of c a pt a ins a n d a good set of o fficers we were soon all right Within 9 3 d a ys of our dep a rture ,
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M Y F A TH ER
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from Gr a vesend our vessel a nchored in the H ug hli fa cing the Eden G a rdens My det a chment w a s destined for the Pa nj a b a n d moving by r a il a n d ro a d a n d river I a t length found myself a t Am rits a r where my fa t her w a s comm a nd ing a n d where a lso a fter a sep a r a tion of six ye a rs I met my mother a g a in I ha d to m a rch my men on to Mi a n Mir but th a nks to Colonel M oir of the Roya l Ar tillery I w a s there relieved a n d posted to the 1 s t B a ttery 24 t h Brig a de st a tioned a t Fort Govind ghur the fortress of Amrits a r getting permission a t the s a me time to reside with my fa ther My fa ther ha d ch a nged much in a ppe a r a nce since he ha d left Engl a nd a t the commencement of 186 0 A severe ill ness of a p a inful n a ture ha d worried him for t w o ye a rs or more but so reticent w a s he reg a rd ing a ll person a l m a tters th a t he ha d never bre a thed a word of this in a n w a s his of his letters to me I y only son a n d y et I never he a rd from his lips a single a necdote of his e a rly l ife The m a rch from Feroze pore to C a nd a h a r the a ss a ult a n d c a pture of Ghu z n i the numerous fi ghts in the Kohist a n in which he w a s eng a ged ; the burn ing of his house a n d the loss of his property a t C a ubul ; his o ffer of him self a s a host a ge in Afgh a nist a n the d a ngers which he incurred during his c a ptivit y from December 2 8 184 1 to September 2 0 184 2 when his life w a s h a rdly worth a moment s purch a se the tribul a tions which his young wife went through ; his sh a re in the b a ttle of M a harajp ore— oi a l l these m a tters whi ch I w a s so a n x ious to le a rn He a bout he never would touch upon a singl e one never verb a lly compl a ined of a ny m an or of a n y cir The only compla int ever m a de by him c um st an c e w a s a written one discovered a fter his de a th in which ,
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13
M Y FA TH ER S D EA TH ’
185 0 6 3 -
he grieved th a t his p a y during the se a son of his c a p M a ny friends t iv it y ha d been det a ined for two ye a rs whom he ha d a ssisted with lo a ns of money even when he w a s a lieuten a nt testi fi ed to the help they ha d received but my fa ther s lips were a s se a led on this topic a s on everyt hing connected with hi s life He never m a de a n enemy It w as h a rd to believe th a t this w a s the s a me m a n who a s a boy ha d kept the holy fa thers a t the college of Angers on the hop for severa l ye a rs A ch a nge whi ch my fa ther disliked c a me within He w a s t w o a n d a h a lf months of our meeting ordered off to comm a nd the 19t h Brig a de R A whose he a dqu a rters were a t Pesh a wa r inclusive of the comm a nd of the R A in the Pesh a w a r Division He ha d no wish to a ppro a ch Af gh a nist a n a g a in but he never bre a thed a word of this to the a uthorities or to me He went to Pesh a wa r a n d d a y by d a y his he a lth bec a me we a ker yet in his letters no mention w a s m a de of the ch a nge On November 11 186 3 two telegra ms were pl a ced in my h a nds a t the s a me moment in Fort Gov in d g hu r The fi rst desp atched forty eight hours in a dv a nce of the second w a rned me to h a sten up to Pesh a wa r a s my fa ther w a s d a ngerously ill The second st a ted th a t there w a s no need to hurry a s a ll w a s over The second w a s opened fi rst .
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C H AP TE R A B YS S I N I A
—P
II A N JA B
1 863 18 7 0 -
on November 10 1 8 6 3 a ged onl y In his usu a l t a citurn w a y he ha d kept even the fa ct of his m a rri a ge conce a led from a ll his fa mily at home a n d for some re a sons of his own he ha d declined to j oin the Indi a n Pension Funds Possibly he thought th a t his duty w a s to provide for his widow from his own purse a n d being a m a n of s av ing h a bits a n d well p a id in his younger d a ys for the v a rious a ppointments held b y him he ha d left suffi cient money invested in c a ntonment house propert y a n d in sh a res of a flourishing b a nk in In di a to secure in rents a n d di vidends a n income of a bout 1 5 00l a y e a r for my mother~ the result of the p a tient econom y of twenty— seven ye a rs of isol a tion a n d of thirty ye a rs of service in In di a B eing one of the executors to his will I forw a rded a ll his p a pers in connection with investments a n d his m a rri a ge certifi c a te to the other executor my uncle Arthur a n d everything w a s soon a dj usted by the l a wy ers in C a lcutt a a n d London In August 18 6 4 I exch a nged into F B a ttery 1 9t h B rig a de R A then comm a nded b y Ma j or D a vid New a ll a n d st a tioned a t Mi a n Mir June a n d July 186 5 I spent a t Siml a a n d life for me went on ple a The s a n t l y a n d smoothly for ne a rly a nother ye a r winter ha d p a ssed a n d the hot we a ther of 186 6 w a s M Y fa ther died fift y one ye a rs
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15
FI NA NCIA L TROUBLE S
1 86 3 -7 0
j ust setting in when I with m a ny others throughout In di a w a s overwhelm ed by a terrible c al am ity The Agr a an d M a st erm a n s B a nk in which a ll my f a ther s money ha d been invested in sh a res suspended p ay ment A few m onths previously the st a tion of Amrits a r ha d been broken up a s a milit a ry c a nton ment a n d our houses there were lying ten antless A The provis ion m a de for my mother w as all gone lieuten a nt of four a n d a h a lf ye ars service in the Artillery m y p ay of Rs 2 96 a n d a few a nn a s per month w a s al l I ha d on whi ch t o support my mother a n d myself a n d m a int a in us in sep a r a te est a blish ments Further during the tim e of our a ffluence I ha d proposed to a nd ha d been a ccepted by , a young l a dy in Engl and who knew nothi ng of m y me a ns but who refused to throw me over now when she ‘ le a rnt th a t I w a s exceeding poor Luckily j ust before the suspension of the b a nk I ha d dra wn out rupees which would l a st my mother for some time a n d all my ingenui ty w a s t a xed to m a ke those rupees go a s fa r a s possible But it w a s m a ni fe s t ly im possible for me to rem a in a ny longer in the Roya l Regim ent of Ar till ery an d the onl y other service open to m e w a s th a t of the Beng a l St a ff Corps My first a pplic a tion for tra nsfer w a s not successful—why , I know not ; but in the second I w a s m ore fortun a te I then a sked to be a ppointed to the Pa nj a b Commission a request which the Lieuten a nt Governor whose priv a te secret ary w a s a Gunn er an d friend of mine kindl y prom ised to sup port With a j oyous he a rt I j ourneyed down to Fort Will i am C a lcutt a to p a ss the ex a min a tion in Hindu st a ni which I did in my fi rst a ttempt I then stu di ed for three m onths for the High Profi ciency in U rdu ,
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A BY
16
SS IN I A
ca
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11
but before the ex a min a tion c a me o ff I w a s posted t o the 2 1s t P a nj a b Infa ntry then under orders for the Abyssini a n c a mp a ign It w a s a gre a t ple a sure to me to fi n d myself posted to so fi n e a regiment ; besides all the offi cers were kno w n to me a n d sever a l w ere friends of mine a s we ha d been st a tioned together for some time a t Mia n Mir At C a lcutt a the he a dqu a rters a n d four comp a nies were emb a rked on the B eng a l the s a me P a n d O ste a mer which ha d t a ken my fa t her a n d myself from C a lcutt a to Suez in A pril 185 7 two comp a nies were a llotted to a sm a ller ste a mer a n d I t w o comp a nies to the old s a iling vessel A la b a m a went with these l a st le a ving our moorings a t C a lcutt a in tow of the B eng a l on Christm a s D a y 186 7 Zoul a w a s re a ched on J a nu a ry 2 7 but it w a s not until Febru a ry 1 th a t w e were s a fely l a nded a n d enc a mped wi th the rest of the regiment My fi rst duty a t Zoul a w a s in connection with the w a ter supply We ha d to depend entirely upon the condensed wa ter sent on shore from the di fferent ste a mers a s not a drop of fresh wa ter w a s obt a in a ble from the l a nd side for m a n y a mile I w a s put in ch a rge of troughs from which the tr a nsport a nim a ls were d a ily wa tered a n d I ha d to st a nd from 8 A M to 6 P M a t this work which w a s not a little trying with a burning sun overhe a d a n d neither se a t nor shelter a va il a ble The tricks of the n a tives to obt a in wa ter for the purpose of merch a ndise were m a ny a n d A Som a li would come with the a nim a ls a musing a n d pl a cing his mouth in the trough would drink like one of them If not c a refully wa tched he would produce a l a rge le a ther w ater bottle which he would ra pi dl y fi ll a n d then dis a ppe a r with his loot Re a ch ,
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A BY
18
SSI N IA
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persu a de them to furnish men a n d a nim als for c a rrying S tores to the troops I w a s fortun a tely suc luckily m a king gre a t friends c e s s ful in doing this who helped me in every w a y a n d when Colonel Gra nt w ho ha d gone to L a ke A s hang i returned a ll difficulties were over So friendly ha d my intercourse with the n a tives been th a t I w a s a ble to go out for fi v e or six miles in a ll directions a lone or a ttended by only one un a rmed mutineer Supplies were brought in d a ily to the commiss a ri a t a n d on S a turd a ys w e ha d a b a z a a r which used to be a ttended by a bout six or seven thous a nd people Sir Robert N a pier on his return a fter the c a pture of M a gd a l a g a ve h a nd some presents to e a ch chief a n d w a s kind enough to th a nk me for my services during the c a mp a ign But m y he a lth ha d broken down a n d on re a ching Zoul a a g a in a medic a l bo a rd inv a lided me to Engl a nd B efore s a iling I c a lled upon Colonel Dillon Lord N a pier s milit a ry secret a ry a n d a sked him to ende a vour to get me recommended by His Excellency for the P a nj ab Commission telling him the circumst a nces of my c a se Whe n I c am e a wa y from the interview I w a s not very s a nguine a s to m y petition receiving I ha d no cl a im to the con a n y p a rticul a r a ttention sider a tion of either o fficer a n d a lthough my loss of fortune w a s a crushing blow to me it w a s not a m a tter which would a ffect a n ybody else But I little knew then of the gre a tness of he a rt of m y C om m a n der in Chief Lord N a pier or of the kindl y n a ture of his secret a ry Lord N a pier never fa iled to the d a y of his de a th to give me encoura gement a n d a helping h a nd a n d for over thirty ye a rs Sir M a rtin Dillon ha s been my friend a n d benefa ctor on innumera ble occ a s ions a nd
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REJOI N
18 6 3 -7 0
STA FF
19
C ORP S
I ha d h a r dl y been a week in Engl a nd when I received a copy of a letter which Lord N a pier of Ma gd a la a s Comm a nder in Chief of the Abyssini a n Forces ha d written to the Lieuten a nt Governor of the P a nj a b on my beh a lf recommen di ng me for employment in the Pa nj a b p a rticul a rly on the fron tier where he thought I might ultim a tely prove a very v a lu a ble offi c er H a ving left Indi a before I ha d completed the oblig a tory ye a r s prob a tion for the St a ff Corps I w a s sent b a ck to the Roy a l Artillery but on my ret urn to Indi a I w a s a llowed to rej oin the St a ff Corps a n d w a s a lso permitted to count my former service in it towa rds the required twelve months prob a tion On August 2 9 186 8 I w a s m a rried to M a ry sole surviving d a ughter of Willi a m Cecil E s q l a te of The D yffrin a n d Ll a nover in the county of Mon mouth but owing to the very delic a te st a te of her he a lth my wife w a s compelled to rem a in in Engl a nd with her p a rents an d did not j oin me in In di a until 18 7 0 a fter a sep a ra tion of over twenty months E a rly in April 186 9 I w a s b a ck a t Am b a l a The Viceroy the Comm a nder in — Chi ef a n d a ll the pro vin c ia l governors a n d high o ffi ci a ls who could a ttend were there to receive the Am ir Sher Ali Kh a n W a li of Af gh a nist a n who with his son the W a li Ah a d S a rd a r Abdull a Ja n a n d cert a in of hi s gre a t dig h i t aries of st a te ha d j ourneyed from C a ubul to Am b a l a for the occ a sion The gre a t fra tricid a l w a r which ha d wa ged in Afgh a nist a n for over four ye a rs ha d ended in fa vour of Sher Al i Kh a n a n d he ha d now come a s the honoured guest of the Government of Indi a I w a s a tt a ched a s a prob a tioner to the 15 t h L u dian a h Sikhs but before j oining them a t Feroze -
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2
P A NJAB
20
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pore I h a stened to wa it on the Lieuten a nt Governor of the P a nj a b then a t Amb a l a a rmed with a copy of Lord N a pier s letter trusting th a t this a n d the hope s a n d promises held out to me two ye a rs previously a t L ahore might ensure m y speedy a ppoin tment to the P a n j a b Commission B ut th a t good luck w a s not yet on my Side so I a g a in m a de m y w a y to Lord N a pier of M a gd a l a s c a mp to solicit his good o ffices through my friend Colonel Dillon I w a s received with the gre a test kindness a n d introduced to M a j or O w en Tudor Burne then priva te secret a ry to the Viceroy who told me to send in my a pplic a tion di rect to t he Gov ern m e n t of Indi a which I did In August I p a ssed my exa min a tion for the St a ff Corps a n d in December a ccomp a nied the 15 t h L u d ia n a h Sikhs from F erozepore to Pesh a w a r where m y old school fellow a n d friend G eorge Robertso n Hennessy who w a s in the s a me regiment kno w ing m y purse to be a sc a nty one insisted upon my h a ving a room under his roof a t a mere nomin a l rent a l But Hennessy would h a ve given his l a st shirt o ff his b a ck if he thought th a t a friend w a s in need of it In the month of July 18 7 0 m y a n xiously looked for a ppointment to the P a nj a b Commission a rrived The notifi c a tion c a me to me with a letter from the priv a te secret a ry to the Vicero y st a ting th a t His Excellency ha d given me the fi rst v a c a ncy which ha d a risen since Lord M a yo ha d become Viceroy of Indi a I w a s very gl a d a n d gra teful but I knew th a t I owed my good fortune to the recommend a tion of Lord N a pier of M a gd a l a a n d to the kindl y influence of Sir M a rtin Dillon a n d Sir Owen Tudor B urne I w a s immedi a tel y a tt a ched to the Pesh a w a r Division a s A ssist ant Commissioner -
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C H AP T E R TH E
IN
C RI M E
III P A NJA B
a fi duties now g ve me my rst experiences of a MY c a tegory of crimes a n d w a ys of c a rryi ng them out which would h a ve seemed m a rvellous in a ny other loc ality These crimes were & c a ttle poisoning setting fi re to crops which ha d been re a ped a n d he a ped up for threshing purposes ; murders for revenge or on za n or z a m in ( we a lth wom a n ea r a ccount of l a nd) Poisoning c a ttle w a s a cruel a ct a n d a lthough it w a s very difi c u lt to o n e of frequent occurrence tra ce the crime to the re a l o ffenders The method of poisoning w a s to mix a rsenic a n d flour together a n d wra p the mixture round with ha y so a s to a ttr a ct the notice of the p a ssing a nim a l ; or the mixture w ould be pl a ced in the hollow of a n e a r of Indi a n corn a n d bound round with gr a ss a n d thrown on the ground where a n enemy s c at tle were known to be t a ken out to gra ze The l a ds in ch a rge of the a nim als would be seen m a rching in front picking up a n d ex a mining every suspicious bun dl e th a t they noticed but even with thi s prec a ution m a ny c a ttle were poisoned a n d died Sometimes the poisonous mixture w a s introduced into a feeding trough but this w as a d angerous experiment a n d more e a sy of .
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C RIM E
I N THE PA NJA B
ca
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detection There were inst ances however when the crime w a s rather boldly executed yet not w it hs t a n d ing the risk of detection run the proof of guilt could not be leg a lly brought home On one occ a sion in a crowded thoroughfa re a fruit seller s aw his enemy s buffa lo coming a long The a ttend ant thinkin g th a t the a nim al w a s s afe from h a rm in such a pl a ce l a gged a few ya rds behi nd hi s ch arge to t a lk to a st a ll keeper To t a ke a slice of melon peel it a n d pl a ster it with a mixture of a rsenic al dough throw it in front of the bu ffa lo a n d w a tch it t a ken down with a t w irl of the tongue w a s for the frui t seller the work of a n inst ant The c a reless keeper of the a nim a l suspecting no d a nger saw nothing of this ; but the b u fi alo died a n d the owner ch a rged the frui t seller w ith the o ffence When I put the questio n to him Why do you ch a rge this fruit seller wit h h a ving poisoned your buffa lo the immedi a te a nswer B ec ause I h a ve no other enemy in the worl d w as who would do m e this h a rm People in the Pesha w a r Va ll ey counted their enemies a n d knew them well Burning cut crops w a s a nother infa mous proceed ing for a t one fell stroke the se a son s produce belonging to one m an or to h a lf a vill age wou l d be destroyed in a few minutes The civil a uthoritie s used to a dvise the villa ge he a dmen to pl a ce e a rthen vessels fill ed with w a ter close to their ricks a n d t o keep men on w a tch a n d wa rd until the h a rvest g ra in ha d been g a thered in ; but the P a th a n is a l a zy indi vidu a l a n d c a reless to a degree The consequence w a s th a t gre a t an d frequent losses occu rred from these incen di a ry fires —losses which might e a sily h a ve been a voided if the owners of the ricks ha d only displ a yed .
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23
C ROP BU RNING
1870
at h d n a l ttle ore ttention to their property w a m a i c fulness a g ainst their known enemi es It w a s di ffi cul t otherwise to preve nt these burni ngs or to detect the culp rit for a n enemy determined to h ave hi s revenge ha d often a dust storm or the da rkness of night to a ssist him in his nefa rious design One system of c a rrying out this o ffence which c am e to m y notice a s a m ag istr a te deserves a p a ss ing word In India a wa y from the forest tra cts sc a rcity of fuel presses he avily on the poor To meet this gre a t w a nt droppings of bullocks cows a n d bu ffa loes a re c a refull y collected mi xed with stra w m a de into c a kes a bout ten inches in di ameter dried in the sun A bit a n d used for coo king an d dome s tic purposes of t hi s c a ke when lit a cts a s a slow m a tch giving out the le a st modicum of sm oke whi ch is h a rdly notice d even if openly c a rried by h a nd in bro a d d a ylight To pl a ce a good pinch of gunpowder into a hollow m a de in a piece of thi s c a ke to cover it over to prevent the powder from falling ou t to light it at one end creep on all fours pl a ce it in the st a cks of whe a t b a rley or millet a t the close of the spring or in those of Indi a n corn at the close of the a utumn h a rvest w a s a very simple process The slow m atch h a rdl y giving any smoke burnt until it re a ched the powder then there w a s a sudden bla ze a n d the whole h a rvest col le c t e d at th a t spot w a s destroyed Of course the re al c ul prit w a s never seen for he is fa r aw a y by the tim e the fire bre aks out but the compl ain ant knows his enemy an d when the deputy inspector of police arri ves to m a ke inquiries , he is a ssured th a t no one but Din Muh amm a d the compl a in ant s e nemy could h a ve done it He ha d been seen an d wa tched creep ing tow a rds the st a cks an d on re a ching them he ha d .
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24
CRI ME
I N TH E PA NJA B
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t a ken a m a tch box lit a m a tch set fi re to the crops a n d then fled Further the bl a ze ha d reve a led his fe a tures a n d So a n d s o could swe a r on the Kora n th a t they ha d identifi ed him B ut Din Muh a mm a d on his p a rt is quite equ al to the occ a sion Wa s he not a t the very hour of the c on fla g ra t io n a t a wedding in a neighbouring vill a g e ; a n d did not A a n d B meet him a s he w a s going there ? Did not C a n d D see him a s he stood a t the corner of the vill a ge guest house ; a n d did he not h a ve a smoke with E a n d F a t their well a s he w a s returning homewa rds ? Din Muha mm a d ha s t a ken the pre c a ution to secure his witnesses a n d to rehe a rse his defence for d a ys before he ventures to m a ke the a ttempt on his enemy s collected crops A fter m a ny ye a rs experience of crime in the Pesh a w a r Va lley it is m y full belief th a t in the c a rrying out of a delibera te murder the perpetra tors previousl y rehe a rse the whole line of defence for d a ys a n d weeks a n d not until they think th a t they a re quite perfect in their p a rt s is the murder a ttempted No wonder th a t some of the crimin a l c a ses whi ch h a ve come up for inquiry in the Pesh a wa r Va lley would h a ve puzzled a modern Solomon Here is a c a se in point which w a s reported to me by the Deputy Commissioner of Koh a t A B a ng a sh l a ndowner ha d fa llen in love with a neighbour s w ife a n d t a ken her a cross the border a mongst the inde pendent tribes w ho g a ve him shelter a n d food Nothing in the world would induce them to surrender him a live but they ha d no hesit a tion in ofle rin g to kill him or to get him murdered whilst in their country A fter some trouble the husb a nd a n d brothers of the wom a n induced an a gent to go to the -
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CRI ME
26
i N THE
PA NJA B
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a n d sup or secret ry n l l his friends a a d a ( ) porters knew who these hired a ss a ssins were ; but not a word of this di d the y or would they reve a l to the a uthorities who c a me to m a ke inquiries Two ne a r rel a tions of the Kh a n innocent men who ha d been foremost in contesting his cl a im to l a nds in di spute were ch a rged with the murder a n d committed to sessions but a fter a c a reful inquiry they were a cquitted
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C H AP T E R P E SH A
IV
WA R
187 0 18 7 2 -
AT
the time of my a ppointment to the P a nj a b Com mission a n d of j oining it at Pesh a wa r in the month of July 18 70 C a pt a in ( a fterw a rds Colonel) W G Wa t erfi el d w a s Deputy Commissioner of the district C a pt a in M a cpherson w a s the senior a ssist a nt the d istrict st a ff especi a lly the Europe a n element being ra ther we a k owing to o fficers h a ving been l a id up from press of work an d the unhe a lthiness of the pl a ce Pesh a wa r ha d at th a t time a very e vil reput a tion in every w a y & life a n d property were by no m e a ns s a fe the cholera se a son of 1 86 9 ha d been a n exception a lly de a dl y one a n d the troops a n d residents in the entire di strict were being decim a ted by a very trying typ e of fever which seemed to b a ffle a ll the e fforts of the doctors a n d which resembled choler a in some respects The ra ilwa y from R a w a l Pin di to Pesh a w a r ha d not then been S t a rted a n d t he hundred miles of j ourney by d ak gh a rry during the m onths of June July a n d August m a n a ged to give the coup cl e g race to more th a n one a iling cre a ture trying to get a wa y to the cool breezes of Murree It w a s a st a tion to be a voided a n d dre a ded in 18 7 0 a n d when a comm a nd c a me for a regiment to m a rch from some a ttra ctive down country c a ntonment to this fa r a wa y de a dl y hole a p a ng of regret w a s felt by those who coul d ,
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PE SH A WA R
28
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not eva de the order ; a n d a s for the n a tive serv a nt s they by some me a ns or other frequently m an a ged to le a ve their m a sters in the lurch a n d contented them selves by keepin g a wa y from the Pesh a wa r Va lley In spite of a ll this I liked Pesh a wa r an d soon le a rnt th a t m any of its evil s were m a gnifi ed Therefore when a note from the Priva te Secret a ry to the Viceroy intim a ted th a t I ha d been selected for a n a ppoint ment to the Pa nj a b Commission I resolved to a sk permission to be a ll owed to j oin it by rem a ining a t Pesh aw ar It w a s some time however before the m ilit a ry a uthorities perm itted me to le a ve my regi m ent a t Pesh a w a r to j oin the Commission a t the s a me pl a ce a n d those d a ys of del a y a ppe a red to m e so m a ny ch a nces of hopes being destroyed But a t length the order for my j oining a rrived a n d my suspense w a s a t a n end The Commissioner of the Pesh a wa r Division w a s then Colonel ( now M aj or Genera l Sir Frederick Rich a rd) Pollock In the e a rly p a rt of the spring a three d ays i nvit a tion ha d t a ken me to Koh a t a s the guest of a n old friend who ha d been with me throughout the Abyssini a n c amp a ign Alfred Ga s e l e e formerly of the 9 3rd Highl anders a n d a t th a t period Qua rterm a ster of the 4 t h now Ma j or Genera l Sir Al fred Ga s el ee Whilst a t Koh a t I ha d the ple a sure of KC B being introduced to Pierre Louis N a poleon C av a g n a ri Deputy Commissioner of th a t district then one of the a blest a n d most promi sing ofi cers on the North Western Frontier of the P a nj ab a n d w ith whom it w a s my good fortune to be a fterw a rds a ssoci a ted in duty an d to e a rn his confi dence a n d friendship Pesh a wa r could be enj oya ble in spite of its execr able clim ate during the hot w e a ther , provided ,
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SPORT
187 0- 7 2
AT PE H AW AR
29
S
your he a lth rem ained good There w a s a p a ck of b o u n d s a n d hunting the wily j a ck al twice a week during the cold se a son a fforded excellent sport Geese duck s nipe ub a ra s a nd grouse qu ail could be shot in the gre a test profusion a nd without a sking a ny one s permission Those who c a red for h a wk ing deer could enj oy th a t ra re ple a sure by going over to Hoti M a rd a n where the g a ll a nt Corps of Guides could give this sport to their friends The h a wks ha d to be tra ined in a peculi a r w ay They were t a ken young from their nests in some p a rt of Northern Af gh a nist a n a n d when perfected they used to be sent down to the offi cer comm a nding the regi ment by a n old fri endly B a ra kz a i S a rd a r With his de a th somewhere a bout 18 7 2 or 18 7 3 the supply ce a sed At le a st thi s w a s the expl a n a tion Of the cess a tion of the sport given t o me when I a fterwa rds w a s st a tioned a t Hoti M a rd a n Bl a ck a n d grey p a rtridge sisi r a vine deer uri a l a n d m a rkhor could a lso be ha d in the surrounding hills But the wild m en of the hills a n d a bout their skirts prevented the shik a rring of the l a st two a n d the rul es a n d prohibitions of the civil a uthorities b a rre d the rest except to a very fa voured few such a s the officers of the G uides who co ul d a rr a nge a week s excellent sport in the Sudum Va ll ey tow a rds Rust am B a ring a n Pirs ai P a ll odh e ri ; an d in the K a tl a ng qu a rter tow a rds the vill a ges of S a ng a o M ia Kh a n B a buz a i Sh a moz ai Polo w a s pl a yed in the centre of C a ntonments , there w a s a n excell ent cricket ground ne a r the Residency buildings a n d one of the prettiest r a cecourses in the world on the site of a n a ncient j heel below the fort where a few ye a rs before fi fteen to twenty couple of snipe could be secured by the oflfic ers on duty inside the fort w ho were pre .
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30
P E HA WA R
S
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IV
sumed to h a ve the sole right of shooting on th a t ground There were further ple a s a nt rides in the di rection of the Sh a hi B a gh ( King s G a rden) B a gh — i W a zir ( the Vizier s G a rden) a n d in a n d out of the pe a ch g a rdens It w a s a pretty sight to go round of a n e a rly spring morning a n d see hundr eds of a cres of pe a ch plum quince intermixed a ll out in bloom In those d a ys o ffi cers were forbidden going beyond B u rj i H a rri Singh which lies a bout four miles from Pesh a w a r Church tow a rds J a mrud On ce I w a s permitted to go a s far a s J a mrud with the l a te Mr W H Smith when speci a l a rra ngements ha d been m a de for conducting a n d escorting him from Pesh a w a r to this ruined fort on his visit to the Pesh a w a r Va lley On a l a ter occ a sion I recei ved a kin dl y w ig ging for h aving t a ken out a h a wking p a rty to the left of the Pesh a wa r J a mrud ro a d under the guid a nce a n d prot ection of a n old Kh a lil Ar b a b of T a i K al B al a B oth sides of the ro a d from Burj i H a rri — Singh to the Khyber ( more especi a lly th a t portion to the left tow a rds the Bes a i spur) were well covered with j ungle a bout this time a n d I s a w good S ized herds of ra vi ne deer ten to fourteen in number on the occ a sion th a t I fi rst j ourneyed in th a t direction How ever since the Af gh a n w ar of 1878 the residents of the Pesh a w a r District emboldened b y our holding the Khyber P a ss h a ve gra du a lly cle a red a wa y a ll t his wood a n d with the w a nt of cover the g a me ha s dis a ppe a red a lso A s m a gistr a tes there w a s one duty w hich we were one a n d a ll bound to c a rry out in rot a tion highly odious a n d obj ection a ble a s it w a s to us This oblig a tion chiefly fell on the j unior m a gistra tes A ssist a nt Commissioners at the he a dqu a rters of the .
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PE SH A W AR
32
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spot where it issues from the hills a n d about twenty eight from Pesh a wa r C a ntonments The o fli c ers n a med were often seen a t Pesh a w a r a n d were much liked for their hospit a lity a n d gener al good fellow ship to a ll w ho ha d to go out to these fo rts on ple a sure or duty Ma j or M a cdon a ld w a s murdered in the spring of 18 7 3 by B ahra m Kh a n Mohm and of L a lpura a ssisted by a number of his followers a sho rt di st a nce out of Fort M ichni in the direction of the hills Wh a t w a s the motive for this cowardl y outra ge I never ex a ctly le a rnt a s a t the time of the event I ha d gone to C a lcutt a with the Obj ect of p a ssing the High Profi ciency test in Persi a n But wh a t I he a rd on my return w as this Ma j or Ma cdon ald w a s the owner of a very fi ne bull dog a n d whilst walking out one d ay followed by the a nim al he met B a hr a m Kh a n a n d some of his men a ccomp a nied by some vill a ge curs of the commonest type These a tt a cked the bull dog an d M a cdon a ld losing his temper spoke in severe tones to the le a der of the c a va lc a de not knowing th a t he w a s rel a ted to the fa mily of Mohm a nd chiefs of L a lpura The p a rties a fter this went their w ay an d the B ritish Offi cer thought no more of the incident Not so the Mohm a nd who ha d the comm and a nt of Fort M ichni w a tched a n d le a rnt th a t he w a s in the h a bit of w alking to a cert a in qu a rter ne a rly every d a y quite un armed One d a y M a j or M a cdon a ld a n d C a pt ain Clifford com m a n ding the det a chment from Pesh a wa r a c c om by the s ame bul l dog were out for their i d n e a p usua l stroll when they were att a cked by B a hra m Kh a n a n d his g ang The M aj or w a s killed a n d the dog trying to s ave his m a ster s body fro m m util a tion .
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C OLONEL
187 0- 7 2
33
SOA D Y
b a dl y ou t a bout with either swords or long hill knives whi lst C a pt a in Clifford m a n a ged with diffi culty to esc a pe A S you enter the Pesh a w a r Church by the door fa cing the Club grounds M a cdon a ld s monument erected by public subscription is on the right h a nd S ide a n d the inscription tells the re a der th a t he w a s murdered by Mohm a nd Afri di s A stra nge error a fter twenty four ye a rs experience of two tribes entirely di fferent fr om e a ch other Colonel So a d y Governor of Fort Ab a z a i w a s a n o flic e r much fe a red a n d respected by the vill a gers living outside his comm a nd To a muse hi mself he cultiv a ted some of the fort l a nds a n d in the pro duction of his b a rley whe a t must a rd a n d sug a r c a ne crops he ha d to indent on the w a ter cuts for irrig a ting his fi elds Whether he indented too freely or whether the vill a gers ha d a n ide a th a t the fa ct of the com m a nda nt t a king to cultiv a tion w a s tresp a ssing on a n ill feeling spra ng up a g a inst him t heir rights whi ch l a sted for ye a rs They secured hi s English plough a n d threw it into the river ; they used to cut down his crops a t night a n d he often ha d to st a nd in defensive a ttitude for the protection of his property rifle in h a nd He ha d his own w a ys of ret a lia tion however One night to prevent a high offici a l from using his enc a mping ground he let loose the floo d g a tes a n d next morning when the offi cial s b a gg a ge a n d tents a rrived there were two feet of st a nding wa ter on wh a t some hours before ha d been dry ground The stories of Colonel Soa d y s eccentric doings a n d s a yings were m a ny but the people a dm ired his fr a nk fe a rless deme a nour for he ha d no conception of wh a t fe a r or d a nger me a nt A s a d a ccident a t polo lost me a very old friend
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34
PESH A W AR
a nd
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schoolfellow an d put a stop to this g a me being pl a yed a t Pesh a wa r for a period C a pt a in Anderson A dj ut a nt of the 5 t h Beng a l C a v a lry then st a tioned a t N a ushehr a w a s a r a re good rider a n d a n excellent exponent of the g a me a s it used to be pl a yed in those d ays He w a s on the b a ll his pony going a t the utmost stretch of speed when a nother schoolfellow mounted on a l a rger pony a n d closely following collided with him a n d sent the sm aller pony a n d rider to the ground A nderson w a s picked up sense less never r a llied an d died in the house of hi s brother in l a w then comm a nding a c a v a lry regiment st a tioned at Pesh a w a r He w a s buried in the cemetery on the J a mrud ro a d A curious f a t a lity a ttended three o fficers of this corps the fi rst v ictim being my friend a n d school comp a nion Anderson I repe a t the n a rr a tive a s recounted to me by m a ny more especi a lly by a n a t iv e o fficer of high fa mily belonging to the regiment C a pt a in Anderson Lieuten a nt Willi a mson a n d Dr P a lmer ha d l a tely come to be st a tioned a t N a ushehr a Houses were very sc a rce there in 186 9—7 0 a n d these three resolved to build one suit a ble for their w a nts a s A site w a s selected ne a r the a j oint stock concern right b a nk of the C a ubul River not very far from the bridge of bo a ts in a tope of s his ha m trees a n d a bout the greenest spot th a t could be found in the neigh Now in a ll C a ntonments where l a nd ha s b o urhoo d been t a ken up for milit a ry purposes from a M uham m a d a n community you often see a n old tomb whi ch i s presumed to be a el a r a t or shrine the resting pl a ce of some dep a rted s a int Such a shrine ha s a lw a ys a keeper a tt a ched to it who lights the evening chira g h or oil l amp of e a rth a bout 6 P M every Thursd a y ,
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TH E DE V OTEE
187 0 7 2 a nd
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C U RSE
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35
ccepts a n y o fferings h a nded over by devotees who put their fa ith a n d trust in the s a cred ch a ra cter of the buried Numbers of such gr a ves a re to be seen in Pesh a wa r C a ntonments a n d a t N a ushehra which a re lit up every Thursd a y evening possibly not a single keeper knowing the n a me of the holy m a n whose interests he is gu a rding in his own peculi a r w ay It is s a id th a t on the site selected for their house a n d enclosure a t N a ushehr a the three o fficers n a med c a me a cross a gr ave of the n a ture described For some re a son or other the keeper of thi s shrine w a s not ple a sed a n d prophesied th a t evil a n d misfortune wo ul d follow a n d overt a ke them a n d their house withi n a fi xed period The fa te of one ha s a lre a dy been described Some months a fterw a rds the second officer whilst h a wking a fter r a v ine deer with the h a wks a n d hounds of the Guides a cross the C a ubul River tow a rds M a r d a n w a s killed in a simil a r m a nner by his horse colliding with th a t of a nother rider The third o ffi cer L a stly a n unusu a ll y w a s drowned in the G a nges he a vy flood in the C a ubul S tre a m swept a wa y every tra ce of the house a n d of the serv a nts buil di ngs within the compound a re a Wh ether the story of the devotee s curse be true or not the other f a cts are Time a fter time h a ve I p a ssed by a n d w a lked round the site where those b uil di ngs once stood without noticing a n y rem a ins th a t ha d been s a ved from the flood An d no one ha s a ttempted to buil d a nother house on the s a me site The work with the tribes living beyond our bound a ry used to be a rr a nged a n d m a n a ged through cert a in n a tive Kh a ns a n d middlemen of the Pesh a wa r District who h a ppene d to be living in close proximi ty D2 a
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36
P E H A W AR
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to th a t p a rticul a r border or whose fa milies ha d been in friendl y intercourse with men of note belonging to the border tribe concerned Our represent a tive genera lly w a s a m a n of good fa mily whom ou r system wished to m a ke much of The j irg a or council of the tribe inva ri a bly consisted of men e a ch of whom by some deed of d a ring or some a c t of s a v a ge tre a cherous murder ha d brought himself to the front in his own proper section of the tribe to which the whole Council belonged Our middlem a n ha d to see the independent j irg a a n d bring them up before the Dep uty Commissioner of the district to settle a ll disputes th a t might spring up between British sub j e c t s a n d the tribesmen beyond the border In fa ct he a cted a s a n envo y or a mb a ss a dor on beh a lf of the Deputy Commissioner to the p a rticul a r tribe he w a s in touch with a n d every other B ritish subj ect in the di strict w a s b a rred from interfering in a n y w a y with his ch a rge In those ye a rs Ibr a him Kh a n of Z a id a w a s in ch a rge of the G a d u n a n d Khudu Khel tribes Am ir Kha n of Shew a looked to N a rinj i a n d Ch a ml a Aj a b Kh a n ha d control of a rr a ngements with a ll the sections of the powerful B un erw a l s mustering The Kh a ns of Hoti a n d fi ghting men a bout M a rd a n were riv a l c a n di d a tes for Swa t a n d lower Raniz ai Mir H a ss a n Kh a n of T a ngi a n d the M ia hs of Ab a a z i ha d their eyes on the U tm a n Khel s The M ohm an d s were m a n a ged through the Kh a n of Ma tt a Mughul Khel a n d the Tehsild ar of D a o d z ai Arb a b A bdul M a j id Kh a n Kh alil of J a ikal B a l a threw his influenti a l m a ntle over the M ull a g o ris whilst a n d the six A fri di tribes of the Khyber R a nge Ar b a b S a rf a r a z Kh a n Mohm a nd of L a ndi Yarghaj o ch a peroned the Ak a Khel a n d the Ad a m Khel Afri di s ,
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M ID D LE M EN
A RBAB s A ND
1870-7 2
37
This syste m which w a s a most pernicious one w as in existence from the con fi nes of Agror in the H a z a r a D istrict right through to the extrem e southern limits of the North Western Frontier , under the control of the P a nj a b Government After Spending twenty nine ye a rs of my serv ice on the a bout Pesh a wa r Frontier inclu di ng eighteen ye a rs in cha rge of the Khyber P a ss —where by living a mongst S hi nwa ris M ohm a n d s &c for severa l Afridi s months at a time I ha d opportunities of le a rning person ally from men who ha d come to pl a ce c onfi dence in me—m y fi rm a n d solem n convi ction is th a t the m a j ority of the wa rs a n d fi ghts between the British Government a n d the independent tribes of the P a nj a b Border were due entirely to the evil intrigues a n d m a c hi n ations of the Ar b ab s a n d m id dl e m en who ha d been employed by us to do our work with the tribesmen I sh a ll refer to this subj ect a g ain further on Every Englishm a n w ho p a ys a visit to Pesh a wa r C a ntonments shoul d stop a n d ex a mine a sm all monument whi ch st a nds on the M a ll a short di st a nce west of the Civil buil di ngs a n d fa cing W h a t used to be known a s the R oya l Ar till ery Hospit a l It is impossible to miss it The ground an d surroundings are extre m ely pretty a n d ni cely kept The t ablet re a ds thus H E RE L I S T H B OD Y ,
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FRE D E RI C K M A CKE SON
I U TENAN T C O L ONEL -
L E
OF
THE BAT H , AND
WH O WAS
B ORN
TE M BE R
D E
L
Y
B M BA
C O M P ANION P E S H AWU R
ARM Y,
E R OF
S E P T E M BE R
I D S EP WOUND INF IC TE D AND
OF A
O C O M M I SS ION T HE
2 ND 1807
14 T R 185 3
BY A REL
I GIOU S
N
F A AT
IC
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OF
38
P E S HA W A R
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repu t ation of L ieu t en an t C o lonel M ac ke son a s a so ld ie r is k n o wn t o a n d ho n o u red b H is v a lu e a s a y a ll p o lit ic a l s e rv a n t of t he S t a t e is k n ow n t o n on e b ett e r t han t he G overn o r G e n e r a l him s e lf w ho in a d iffic u l t a n d e ven t ful t im e ha d c a u s e t o m a r k his gre a t ab ility a n d t he d is c re t ion a n d t em pe r w hic h a d d e d a d mira b l e p r u d e n c e t e n fo ld valu e t o t he s old ie rlike qu alit ie s of his cha r act e r The l oss o f C ol on e l M a ck e so n w ou l d ha v e d im m e d a vic t o ry ‘
The
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T o l o s e him hu s b y t he ha n d o f a foul fo un e o i t he he avie s g loom for t he c o un e d him a m o n g it s b ra e s a n d b e s
rt
t
t
v t
t
a s s a s s in
Gove r
is
n m en
t
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m is w hich
a
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This gra nd tribute to the de a d a ppe a red in the orders of the M a rquis of D a lhousie then Viceroy an d Governor Genera l of In di a Who knew ho w to a ppre ci a te a n d v a lue services rendered to the St a te The monument w a s erected by priva te subscription a n d a few y a rds a w a y from it a well w a s exc a v a ted W hi ch w a s to provide pure drinking w a ter for rich a n d poor T a ke c a re you fetch my drin king w a ter from Ma ckeson S a hib s well w a s a comm a nd inv a ri a bly given to your w a ter c a rrier in Pesh a w a r thirty ye a rs ,
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n a me fi rst a ppe a rs in notice when a s a politic a l a ssist a nt he is found collecting supplies for the a rmy of the Indus then a bout to m a rch from Ferozepore to B h a wa lpur in the fi rst Afgh a n w ar of When his t a sk w a s completed a n d the 42 183 8— a rmy ha d p a ssed Bh a w a lpur towa rds the Bol a n P a ss he c a me b a ck to Ferozepore a n d moved to Pesh a w a r t o t a ke up his duties in the Khyber an d keep the p a ss open The difficulties he ha d to fa ce for ye a rs a n d the indomit a ble pl u ck he displ a yed in c a rrying out his work single h a nded in such a pl a ce a n d few c an underst a nd w ho h a ve a mongst such people not ha d the experience of working single h a nded with ’
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IV
occurred over 4 5 ye a rs a g o there must h a ve been something in the ch a ra cter deeds a n d life of this m a n to h a ve kept his memory still fresh a n d de a r to the s a va ges of the Khyber R a nge In Pesh a wa r during 1870 a s n o w necessity forced every o fficer to h a ve a w a tchm a n to keep gu a rd over his horses goods a n d ch a ttels from a bout 5 R M to s a y 7 A M the next morning This gentlem a n w ho w a s genera lly a thief himself c a me to the house a s the sun w a s setting a n d cle a red out the next morning when he went a wa y to his own home a n d kept to his own business until evening a g a in a ppro a ched when he re a ppe a red a t his m a ster s house He ha d no hesit a tion in getting his m a ster s neighbour robbed or if two offi cers lived in the s a me house a n d Only one kept a night w a tchm a n the other o ffi cer w a s unless he consented a lmost cert a in to be robbed to p a y bl a ckm a il to the tune of Rs 5 a month by entert a ining a nother sc amp of a chow l ncl a r or wa tch When I w a s living with my friend Colonel m an Hennessy the Kotwa l of the C a ntonm ent Police supplied me with a r a gged ruffia n we a ring S hoes m a de from the dwa rf p a lm with a useless pistol stuck in his w a ist b a nd a s my gu a rdi a n He w as a B a ssi Khel A fri di a sub division of the Ak a Khel number ing a bout 300 a rmed men every one of whom w a s a thief by birth instinct a n d profession ; but in those d a ys I w a s ignor a nt of these m a tters My gu a rdi a n took fa ir c a re of me until one night he ha d a portion of my tent removed from my vera nd a h The police however h a ving tr a ced his footsteps my wa tchm a n s security a mounting to Rs 30 w a s h a nded over to m a ke good my loss a n d the B a ssi Khel m a de him self sc a rce When I went to live with the He a d of ,
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PE SH A W A R THIEVE S
187 0-7 2
41
the Police in the m onth of Ju ly 18 7 0 my old rooms at Colonel Hennessy s were given over to a brother He ofii cer who ha d returned from le a ve in K a sh mi r refused to keep a wa tchm a n a n d so one evening a fter mess on returning to hi s qu a rters he found hi s room s entirely cle ared out Poor fell ow he w a s a n officer exceedingly p a rticul a r a bout hi s a lwa ys ne a t a n d a n d hi s loss w a s close upon a ppe a r a nce a n d dr ess 3o0l sterling in v a lue h a rdl y a ny of whi ch w a s ever recouped to him The a ud a city with whi ch thi eves in the Pesh a wa r Va ll ey broke into houses a n d b a rr a cks in C a nton ments a n d c arried off property chiefly rifles b a ffles This a pplies not onl y to the old a ll description d a ys of our occup a tion but to very recent d a tes In the spring of 1897 a thi ef shot a Dogra sentry of the 2 oth P anj a b Inf a ntry de a d not far from their m a in gu a rd an d m a n a ged to esc ape w ith his rifle During M a rch 1898 a s the He a dqu a rter c a mp of the Tira h Expe di tion a ry Force w a s enc amped at Pesh a w a r on the p a ra de ground of the 35 t h Sikhs a sentry of thi s regim ent w a s shot de a d a n d hi s M a rtini t a ken a wa y The more v a lu a ble the a rm is the more d a ring a n d the more venturesome will the thief be to get hold of the we a pon But the boldn ess of thes e thi eves is not only pra ctised in the C a ntonment s of Pesh a wa r an d N a ushehra ; it is exemplifi ed a t T arn N a ushehra Ak ora Khyra b a d the fo ur m a rchi ng st ages between Pesh a wa r a n d Attock I do not know whi ch of these st a ges ha s the worst reput a tion but from my experience of it T a ru wo ul d be h a rd to be a t A re gim ent of the P a nj a b Frontier Force m a rchi ng from Koh a t through the Koh a t P a ss to the R a wa l Pindi da rb a r in the spring of 1885 ha d a ll their ’
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CH
PE HA WA R
42
S
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Iv
night sentries rifles lo a ded with buckshot c a rtridges Nothing w a s lost on the j ourney a n d R a w a l Pindi Here thinking th a t they were w a s re a ched in s a fety out of the region of rifle thieves a n order w a s issued to discontinue the use of buckshot c a rtridges by sentries pl a ced on duty round the c a m p between sun set a n d sunrise The very fi rst night of the di scon t in u an c e two M a rtini Henry rifles wer e c a rried o ff Rifle thieves ha d followed the regiment over every inch of their m a rch from Koh a t a n d ha d a ccepted the very fi rst opportunity a n d ch a nce given them of c a rrying a wa y the we a pons whi ch we a pons I recovered for the regiment some y e a rs a fterw a rds Inst a nces h a ve occurred in which profession a l thieves h a ve followed a regiment on the m a rch from Pesh a w a r to some down country st a tion for a month or more wa iting for the cha nce of getting a good loot a n d they seldom returned empty h a nded I believe there is h a rdly a st ation or enc a mping ground in Northern Indi a a n d the Pa nj a b where these men h ave not one or more friends a n d a llies who house a n d feed the thieves a n d help them in secreting a n d removing receiving in turn a sh a re from a rms a n d rifles stolen the s a le a n d di spos a l of the s ame Honour a mongst thieves is exemplifi ed in the w a y in which the a bove custom is a lwa ys respected a n d thoroughly c a rried out wh a tever be the n a tion a lity or religion of the thief a n d his helper On e morning in the seventies it w a s whi spered a bout Pesh a w a r C a ntonments th a t the b a ndm a ster of a distinguished regiment ha d d is a ppe a red The secret of his where a bouts w a s well kept for two or three d a ys a n d then it le a ked out th a t he ha d been c a rried o ff a n d w a s a prisoner a mon gst the Z a kh a ’
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KI DNA PP I N G A BA ND S MA N
187 0-7 2
43
Khel Afridis of the Khyber Pa ss by whom he w a s well fed a n d kin dl y tre a ted The civ il a uthorities c a lled upon Arb a b Ma j id Kh a n Kh a lil of T a ik a l B a l a to recover the b a ndm a ster a n d within a week or ten d ays he w a s brought b a ck s a fe a n d sound to his regiment at Pesh a wa r Some ye a rs a fterwa rds when I ha d be en for a long period in ch a rge of the Khyber Pa ss a n d ha d become well a cqu a inted with the Z a kh a Khel I remembered the a necdote of the b a ndm a ster a n d a sked his c a ptors to tell me wh a t ha d occurred on th a t occ a sion They s a id th a t a b a nd of Nikki Khel Z akh a Khel s of the Khyber st a rted on a n expedition towa rds Pesh a w a r a n d p a ssing the cemetery on the J a mrud ro a d they descended into the ra vine which commences a t the Brig a de p a ra de ground a n d goes round the whole of the C a nton ments on th a t side p a st the second cemetery by the ro a d th a t le a ds from Pesh a w a r to M ic hni where it j oins the Sheikh k a K a th a a n d the Budni stre a m through the Milit a ry Works Dep a rtment b rickfi el d s On the night in question they ha d not gone far ha d not even re a ched the lower cemetery when they noticed a lighted l a ntern in the r a vine a n d a Europe a n lying on the ground close beside it They sc a ttered a t once thinking it w a s some tra p l a id by Mr Nyx a t th a t period Inspector of C a ntonment Police but cr a wling round a n d round the light they gra du a lly a ppro a ched it until they c a me upon the fi gure of a Europe a n f a st a sleep Extinguishing the l a ntern they r a ised the sleeper on their shoul ders a n d c a rried him for a di st a nce of four miles until they ha d p a ssed the police st a tion of Burj H a rri Singh where they pl a ced him on his feet a n d supporting him m a de him wa lk towa rds J a mrud Fort ,
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44
PE SHA W A R
and
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the Khyber It must h a ve been a powerful n a rcotic th a t ha d been a dm ini stered t o him th a t evening for he walked eight mil es a n d ha d re a ched the entra nce to the p a ss before the da wn beg a n to a ppe a r a n d the cool morning breeze brought him to his senses M aking use of a friendl y expression he a ttempted to bre a k a w a y from his c a ptors but they immedia tely drew their long Afri di knives c a ll ed c hara s a n d g a ve him to underst a nd by visible signs th a t they ha d no intention of being t rifle d with A fter thi s he went quietly with them t o their Z a kha Khel settlements an d rem a ined there until brought b a ck to Pesh a wa r The Z a kh a Khel spoke well of the beh a viour of the b a n dm a ster to the effect th a t during the week or ten d a ys he w a s under their ch a rge he di spl a yed no fe a r One other incident to illustra te the boldness of A fgh a n thieves One morning the men of the Corps of Guides whilst a t their t a rget pra ctice a t M a rd a n were a stonished to see a P a th a n mounted on a horse with a milit a ry s a ddl e going a wa y a t full speed towa rds Guj a r G a rlic ( a Vill a ge two m ile s from the c a ntonment of Hoti — M a rd a n) foll owed by a police sowa r with a dra wn sword mounted on a horse with C oming up to the run awa y the a hunting s a ddle sowa r fetched him down with a c ut an d pursuer a n d pursued moved on to the civil lines where the m a tter The Sessions Judge of Pesh a w a r w a s thus expl a ined Division followed by his police orderly sowa r ha d ridden into the compound of Mr Beckett A ssist a nt Commissioner a n d di smo un ting m a de a Sign to his orderly to hold his a ni m a l pending the a rriva l of his syce or g roo m The orderly seeing a P a th a n se a ted in the co mpound c a lled to him to hold his horse .
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S TE A L I N G
H ORS E
1870-7 2
45
whilst he took ch a rge of the a nim a l ridden by the Sessions Judge The P a th a n did so a n d getting into the s a ddle m a de off a s h a rd a s his mount could go ; the sow a r seeing how the l a nd l a y j umped on to the j udge s horse g a ve ch a se a n d m a n a ged to cut down the thief a n d secure his own horse It a ppe a rs th a t this s a me P a th a n ha d previously pl a yed a si m il a r trick on a g room in the service of the Executive Engineer who w a s t aking his m a ster s horse from Ma rd a n to K a tl a ng Meeting the P a th a n on the ro a d he a sked him to hold the a nim a l for a moment whilst he di smounted The Pa th a n di d so but immedi a tely went OH with his prize which he pro d u ce d before the Akhund of Sw a t S a y a d A bdul Gh a ffur a t S aidu in Swa t But the Ak hund— o r B a b a ji a s he w a s reverenti a lly c a ll ed by his follo w ers sent the a nim a l b a ck to the A ssist a nt Commissioner a t M a rd a n The P a th a n who w a s committed for tri a l to the sessions court ende a voured to m a ke him self out ins a ne At th a t st a ge I w a s sent to offic ia t e for Mr Beckett a n d ha d to record the medic a l evidence which subst a nti a ted the fa ct th a t the culprit w a s entirely free from a ny sym ptoms of ins a nity .
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C H AP T E R
V
M A RD A N 1 8 7 2 18 7 9 -
the end of September 18 7 2 orders c a me th a t I w a s to Offic ia t e for one month in ch a rge of the sub d istrict of Yusufz a i in pl a ce of Mr Beckett proceed ing on short le a ve a n d on the 3 oth of th a t month I found myself a t the sm a ll st a tion of Hoti M a rd a n the he a dqu a rters of th a t gra nd regiment the Corps of Guides This w a s my fi rst meeting with a regi ment with which I ha d the honour a n d ple a sure of being a ssoci a ted off a n d on for the seven ye a rs th a t I w a s in ch a rge of the sub di strict With them I took p a rt in the expeditions a g a inst I s khakot a n d the U tm a n Khe l s of Na w e d a n d Buch a a n d R a ng Mi a n a a n d we were together in the Afgh a n w a r of 18 7 9 — 8 1 subsequent to the de a th of my much l a mented friend C av a g n ari From the period of my fi rst meeting this regiment on October 1 18 7 2 to the d a te of my le a ving Indi a in 1898 I w a s tre a ted by the o fficers with a kindness whi ch could not h a ve been exceeded ha d I re a lly belonged to the corps itself In a ll respect s a n d in a ll m a tters they looked upon me a s one of their own body The n a mes of Sir J M c Q u een Sir Fra ncis H Jenkins C a mpbell Ch a rlie Hunter George Stewa rt Wigr a m B att ye Hutchinson Fred B at t ye W a lter H a milton AB OU T
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M A RDAN
48
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Aj a b did
not seem to mind whether he w as under a cloud or not At th at time my chief a nxiety w a s th a t he sho ul d not during my short ten ure of thirty offi ce do a n y ac t or commi t an y offence On e d a ys which I could not dispose of myself but h a ve to le ave to my successor to settle I h a ve used the words rem a rk a ble m an in con j unction with Aj a b Kh a n s n a me a n d the following brief hi story of his c a reer m a de out by me m a ny ye a rs a g o will show th a t the words are not out of pl a ce Mir B a bu the f a ther of thi s fa mil y w a s a strong l a ndowner in the Sudum Va lley at the time th a t F u tt eh Kh a n of P a njt a r a n d S a ya d Ah m a d Sh a h Chief of the Hindust a ni fa n a tics were a t the zenith of their power a bout the ye a r 182 7 Mir B a bu j oined their combin a tion but did not fa ll with them when the P a th a ns rose up an d m a ss a cred S a ya d When the Sikhs Ahm a d s Hindust a ni followers bec a me the rulers Mir B a bu w a s a ppointed a farmer of revenue on their beh a lf but the da te of his de a th He left several sons all ha s not been rightly noted of whom I knew except Aziz Kh a n who died before I took ch a rge of Yus ufz a i Just before the commencement of the Am b eyl a c a mp a ign in October 186 3 the two brothers Aziz Kh a n a n d Aj a b Kh a n were all powerful in the Sudum Va ll ey a n d wh a t a dded to their influence w a s th a t they were connected by m a rri a ge w ith N a w a b Kh a n of B a gra a n d Z aid ull a Kh a n of D a gg a r the t w o f amilies which g ave heredit ary Kh a ns to the whole of Buner Through them all Buner co ul d be induced to side with or a g a inst the British For some re a son the m ilit a ry stra tegic movem ent on our side of October 1 9 186 3 fro m Now a Kill a to Surkha w i a nd through .
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THE B UNERWA L
1872 -79
S
the Am b eyl a P a ss into the Ch aml a Va lley w a s not reve al ed to the brothers Aj a b a n d Az iz They con s id ere d th a t they ha d been deceived a n d the s a me ide a c ame into the minds of the chiefs a nd people of Buner strongly a git a ted a s they a lre a dy were by the letters a n d exhort a tions of the he a ds of the Hindust a ni colony at M alka If you do not do som ething now your Bun erp a rd a ha s gone for ever w a s the mess a ge sent by Aj a b Kh a n by the mouth of his most trusted henchm a n to his friend a n d a lly N a sir Kh a n of B a rkilli then a t Ka nga a Vill a ge in the Ch aml a Va lley N a sir Kh a n a lthough he ha d but a sm a ll contingent of fourteen to fi ft een men w ith him commenced his a tt a ck well knowing th a t the fi rst few shots fi red b y him a nd the C ha m l aw al s woul d bring the whole of Buner down on the left fl ank of the inv a ding force An d it h a ppened ex a ctly as he ha d a nticip a ted This fa ct a n d Aj a b Kha n s mess a ge were told to me in 187 7 by the very s a me henchm a n in whom he ha d reposed so much trust fourteen ye a rs before ; but in 18 7 7 cruelty ha d turned the fa ithful serva nt into a de a dl y enemy a n d it w a s his aid an d evidence which brought Aj a b Kh a n t o execution in the spring of 187 8 Aft er the termin ation of the Amb eyla c a mp a ign Aj a b Kh a n w a s not punished A fe w ye ars l a ter the sm all h amlet of Pirs ai w a s burnt by the B un e rw al s a n d the two brothers Aziz a n d Aj a b being suspected , of having a h a nd in the business , were brought into Pesha w a r pen di ng inquiry A s usu al no a ction w a s t a ken a g a inst them possibly on the grounds th a t sufficient evidence could not be produced to w a rra nt a conviction Aziz Kh a n di ed between 1 8 6 9 a n d 18 7 2 , when Aj a b fled with all hi s f a mil y into Buner .
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50
CH v
M ARD A N
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le a ving sever a l sons the eldest being Ibra him Kh a n of H amz a k ot During the s a me October 18 7 2 I ha d a visit from Hukm a t Kh a n son of th a t fi n e old B uner chief Z a id ull a Kh a n of D a gg a r A fter the b a ttle of L a lu on December 15 18 6 3 when the combined forces of the confeder a te tribesmen were defe a ted by our troops opera ting in the Ch a ml a Va lley it w a s a greed with the Buner chiefs th a t they should go a n d destroy M a lk a the Hindust a ni outpost in the Am a z a i country on the M a h a b a n R a nge ; a n d th a t Colonel R T a ylor a n d severa l other o fficers escort ed by the Guide Infa ntry comm a nded by C a pt a in Jenkins a n d loc a l levi es under A ziz Kh a n of Sudum shoul d a c c om p a ny to see the comp a ct c a rried out It w a s a ticklish undert a king a n d looked a s if the Guides were being sent to their destruction for the surrounding hills a n d the Ch a ml a V a lley sw a rmed with portions of the to men th a t ha d j ust been defe a ted a t L a lu a n d more were coming from di st a nt hills But there w a s no fe a r or hesit a tion in a single m a n of th a t splendid regiment Wh a t I a m rel a ting here w a s told to me by o ffi cers of the Guides w ho sh a red A s they moved into the in this undert a king Ch a ml a Va lle y ( December 19 186 3 ) the tribesmen g a thered round them occupying posts of a dva nt a ge But out rushed a n d re a dy to a tt a ck the regiment a n old Buner chief h a ving only one a rm a n d deprived of the sight of one eye who shouted to the tribesmen t h a t the Buner j irg a ha d given their word to destroy M a lk a a n d to t a ke the English p a rty there a n d bring them b a ck s a fe a n d sound a n d they me a nt to c a rry out their comp a ct a n d if a n y wished to inter fere they must fi rst of a ll fi ght the united strength ,
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FA N A TI C S
III ND U STA NI
187 2 - 7 9
51
of B uner This scene w a s a cted a n d re a cted time even with the Am a z a is a n d in every a fter time inst a nce the one a rmed chief w a s successful until M a lk a w a s destroyed a n d the English o ffi cers with the Guides Infa ntry conducted b a ck to Am b e yl a The one eyed a n d one a rmed chief ( December w a s Z a id u l l a Kh a n of D a gg a r At the commencement of 186 8 a l a rge b a nd of the Hindust a ni fa n a tics ha d come to B a jk a t ha in the D a ul a tz a i section of the B uner country T hey ha d been invited t o strengthe n the p a rty opposed to the Akhund of Sw a t he a ded b y Z a id u ll a Kh a n a n d others Z a id ull a m a de the fi rst move b y seizing some Sw a t tra ders p a ssing through his l a nds The Ak hu n d replied by mustering his followers a n d directing the B uner chiefs to kill the refra ctory Kh a ns a n d turn the Hindust a nis out of Buner The S a l a rz a i a n d A s ha z a i sections a t once a tt a cked D a gg a r an d Z a id ull a Kh a n w a s cut down b y a n in dividu a l n a med Z a bt a Kh a n Aya Khel of the A s ha z ais who w a s introduced to me a t M a rd a n during 18 75 I h a ve dwelt on the f a te of Z aid u ll a Kh a n in remembr a nce of his a ction fi v e ye a rs before a n d on his a ccount a w a rm welcome w a s given by me to his son Hukm a t Kh a n In 18 7 3 I o ffi ci a ted for sever a l months a t M a rd a n a n d with e a ch experience m y a dmir a tion of Aj a b Kh a n s str a tegy incre a sed a s well a s my dislike Pirs a i P a llo d heri H a mz a kot Beroch were the pro perty of his brother Az iz Kh a n now repl a ced by his son Ibra him The fi rst comm a nded the Pirs a i P a ss le a ding to the S a l a rz a i Bu n e rw a l s which Aj a b ha d secured through the medium of the civil a uthorities on the ground th a t his nephew w a s not strong enough .
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2
MARDA N
52
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to hold it He w a s trying h a rd to get a footing into Beroch which ha d two outlets into B uner a n d a s a fe p a ss a ge to the M a la ndri P a ss His m a n oeuvres ha d frightened his nephew Ibr a him Kh a n out of his wits He tried to oust a nother brother of his Pir Muh amm a d from B aring a n a s it l ay directly on the ro a d to the M a l a ndri Pa ss h a lf a mile from the B uner Border a n d a mile south of B eroch N y am a t Kh a n of Su rkha w i a vill a ge comm a nding the western outlet of the Am b eyl a P a ss w a s not in his good books He p a rticul a rly obj ected to the Deputy Inspector of Police a t Rust a m He wished to get complete control of the Pirs a i M a l a ndri a n d Am b eyl a P a sses B esides some thirty outl a ws under feigned n a mes were sheltered in his vill a ge a n d h a mlets a n d when a w a rr a nt w a s served for the a rrest of a n y in di vidu a l the usu al reply w a s There is no m a n of th a t n a me living here However knowing th a t for the time being I w a s only a bird of p a ss a ge Aj a b Kh a n did not a ttempt to crush me entirely till the ye a r 1 8 7 7 Muk a rr a b Kh a n of P a nj t a r ex chief of the Khudu Khe l s st yled by the o ffi ci a ls a t L a hore a s th a t stormy petrel of the frontier w a s a nother ple a sing ch a r a cter connected with Yusufz a i politics The Khudu Khel j irg a we a ried out by twent y ye a rs of incess a nt trouble a t his h a nds in vited him to a meet ing trusting to get rid of him in some w a y Muk a rr a b Kh a n however w a s not to be c a ught n a pping a n d m a n a ged to m a ss a cre more th a n h a lf the Council a t this very interv iew H a ving ofli c ia t e d fi v e times during three ye a rs a t Ma rd a n I w a s in hopes of getting the post per m an e n t l y when it bec a me v a c a nt but this w a s not to .
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187 2 - 7 9
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be Every ye a r the tension with Aj a b Kh a n ha d become worse but the clim a x ha d not been re a ched a n d luck ha d en a bled me to smooth over a ll the troubles r a ised by him In December 18 7 6 I w a s a ppointed perm a nently to the ch a rge of the Sub di strict of Yusufz a i but before I co uld st a rt from Pesh a w a r to t a ke up the berth a n event h a ppened a t Ab a z a i with which I ha d nothing to do in a n y w ay Works ha d been commenced on the Sw a t River c a n a l a short di st a nce a bove the fort ( three miles) an d one night whilst the coolies were resting a fter their l a bours a n d were sound a sleep a b a nd of ra iders c a me down a n d killed some thirty or more of these poor cre a tures A short time previous to this Lord Lytton Viceroy a n d Governor G enera l of Indi a ha d p a id a visit to the Pesh a w a r Va lley Returning to the Ma rd a n it seemed a pp a rent th a t Aj a b Kh a n ha d pl a y ed his l a st trump c a rd since my incumbenc y to ruin his nephew Ibra him Kh a n He ha d induced Ibra him s stepmother to run a wa y fr om his keeping a n d with her two sons t a ke shelter with her brother Hukm a t Kh a n a t D a gg a r No g re a ter disgr a ce could h a ve been o ffered by one P a th a n to a nother Rememberin g my ki ndness to him on former occ a sions Hukm a t Kh a n sent his priv a te scribe a n d pl a ced his Sister s c a se entirely in my h a nds B y the beginni ng of July 187 7 the c a se ha d been settled to her entire s a tisfa ction a n d she ha d been loc a ted a t P a ll o dhe ri a t her own request a n d her brother s a gent ha d been sent b a ck to report the result to Hukm a t The settlement w a s duly notifi ed to M a j or C a v a g n ari who fortun a tely for a ll ha d come from Koh a t to t a ke up the duties of Deputy Commissioner of Pesh a w a r an d he wrote on .
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54
CH v
M ARDA N
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July 12 I ful ly a pprove of a ll th a t you h a ve don e in e ffecting the return of Aziz Kh a n s wi dow a n d consider th a t you h a ve m a n a ged the a ffa ir with gre a t t a ct a n d j udgment I w a s rej oicing over thi s settle ment a n d trusting for quieter times w a s h a ving c ho t a ha z im w ith the o fficers of the Guides in their g a rden when a trooper g a lloped in from Rust a m with the report th a t the B u n erw a l s ha d a tt a cked the Sudum villa ges H a nding the report to t he o ffi cer comm a nding the Guides a n d a sking his a id a det a ch ment of c a va lry under the g a ll a nt Wigr a m B a t t ye were soon on their w a y to Rust a m followed b y a wing of the infa ntry It w a s a d a y to be remembered for the overpowering he a t of July a n d not a p a rticle of sh a de in the eighteen mile ride to Rust a m B ut wh a t m a de it more trying w a s th a t our ow n subj ects should be a llowed to pl a y these pr a nks without a ny punishment ever overt a king them A s w e rode u p the incline to the police st a tion a t Rust a m Aj a b Kh a n st a n di ng with a long st a ff in his h a nds closely sc a nned our fa ces I must h a ve reve a led b y mine wh a t w a s p a ssing in my mind for the District Super in t e n d e n t of Police coming up a lmost imme di a tel y th a t a fter us le a rnt from one of his police o ffi ci a ls Aj a b w a s prep a ring for a flight a s the S a hib ha d looked b a dl y a t him It w a s true He ha d pl a ced three of his sons in the towers at Pirs a i seven miles where they could not be touched He a n d a wa y a nother son were a t Rust a m a n d orders ha d gone t o get the fa mily a t C ha rg u ll a i re a dy for a speedy flight into Buner It w a s a time to disguise one s in t e n tions so sending for Aj a b I did my best to solicit hi s an d a dvice a n d to a scert a in the re a son of this r a id who could possibly h a ve c a rried it out He s a id he ’
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56
M ARD A N
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of the P e shaw a r V a lle y— ( l ) the murder a n d w ou n d in g of the coolies a t Ab a z a i ; ( 2 ) j ust before my t a king perm a nent ch a rge of Hoti M a rd a n the strong Ra niz ai vill a ge of I s khak o t ha d some of its men implic a ted in a murder c a rried out in ra ther a high h a nded m a nn er in a border vill a ge close to L a ndkhwa r ( l a n d a wet khw a r ra vine implying a r a vine with running wa ter in it) ; ( 3) this Buner r a id L uckily we ha d C av a g n a ri a s Deputy Commissioner of Pesh a w a r a t this period Withi n two d a ys we ha d a mple evidence to prove th a t the r a id w a s the sole h andiwork of Aj a b Kh a n a n d a telegr a phic report w a s m a de of this to Pesh a w a r a n d C a v a g n a ri c a me out to M a rd a n a n d desired to interview the Kh a n of C ha rg ull a i Aj a b by this time w a s h a ppy in the belief th a t an y suspicions th a t ha d been origin a lly cre a ted in our minds reg a rding his complicity in this a ffa ir ha d long been removed a n d he w a s now ch a rging every impossible m a n a s being the prim a ry mover a n d c a use of B uner w als pouring down for the destruction of our pe a ceful vill a gers When he w a s c a lled up a n d told th a t C a v a g n ari w ished to see him a t Hoti Ma rd a n hi s fa ce fell a t once a n d he m a de every possible excuse to ev a de obeying the order However it w a s getting l a te in the d a y a n d a s night would fa ll in a bout three hours a n d it w a s hopeless to keep him in s a fety Rust a m he w a s sent in w ith Ib ra him Kh a n of at M a rd a n Inspector of Pesh a wa r Police an d a s uffi cient escort to prevent his being rescued by his ret a iners of C ha rg ull a i a n d fortun a tely M a rd a n w a s re a ched without an y mish a p His son A kr a m a t Rust a m w a s secured an d the Deputy I nspector of Police w a s sent to bring in K a ra m A sl a m a n d a -
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57
TRI A L OF A JA B K HA N
187 2 - 7 9
third son w ho were hol di ng Pirs a i K a ra m w a s met o n the ro a d a n d g a ve himself up a n d w a s sent into Rust a m A sl a m from the towers of Pirs a i fi red on the police a n d drove them b a ck a n d th a t s a me night he set fi re to Pirs a i a n d fled to C horb a n d a in the Buner country Next morning he c a me down a n d burnt a nother sm a ll h a mlet went b a ck to C horb an d a a n d retired into the he a rt of the Buner country K a r a m a n d Ak ra m sons of Aj a b Kh a n were escorted into Hoti M a rd a n a n d the whole va lley we a ried out by the a nnoy a nces they ha d received a t the h a nds of this fa mily turned out to see the spect a cle B eing directed to m a ke a full in q uiry into the c a se I w a s fortun a te enough to secure the services of t h a t trusted follower w ho in October 186 3 ha d been s ent by Aj a b Kh a n with a mess a ge to N a sir Kh a n of B a rkilli a sking him to a tt a ck our troops for the s a ke of the B uner p a r d a All his former servi ces ha d been forgotten a n d a long period of persecution ha d turned him into a bitter enemy of Aj a b Kh a n s and from hints given by him evidence w a s forth coming which left no doubt of Aj a b s guilt A fter a long a n d c a reful in quiry for the prosecution a n d defence recorded in presence of the a ccu sed Aj a b Kh a n w a s committed to t a ke his tri a l before the Court of Session an d he w a s brought before Mr ( now Sir Don a ld) M a cn a bb Commissioner of the R a w a l Pindi d ivision w ho w a s speci all y deputed to Pesh a w a r to undert a ke the tri a l It l a sted twenty two d a ys a n d Aj a b w a s sentenced to s u ffer the extreme pen a lty of the l a w subj ect to the confi rm a tion of the order by the Chief Court of the P a nj a b In a j udgment of 1 50 p a ges Mr ( now Sir H M ) Justice Plowden con fi rmed the order of the Sessions Court a n d in .
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M ARDA N
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spite of the utmost e fforts of the b a rrister who took up the a ppe a l not a fl a w could be di scovered in the evidence given in proof of the guilt of the a ccused W hen the result of his a ppe a l w a s expl a ined to Aj a b in his solit a ry cell in the Pesh a wa r J a il a n d he w a s told th a t on a cert a in morning he w a s to be t a ken out a n d h a nged he a dmitted th a t he ha d brought the r a id down hoping to he a d it a t the border stop a n d force the B u n erw a l s to return t o their country a n d in this w a y reg a in the f a vour of the British o ffici a ls which he ha d lost b y his conduct He su ffered the extreme pen a lty of the l a w in pre sence of a very l a rge a ssembly of he a dmen of the Pesh a w a r District to whom in a few sho rt impres sive words he a dmitted the j ustice of his punish ment a n d w a rned them to a void the w a ys which ha d brought him i n to trouble The expe di tion into the country of the Ja w a ki Afridis during the winter of 18 7 7 —7 8 ha d kept C av ag n a ri fully occupied but he never left out of his mind th a t the Ab a z a i outra ge ha d to be punished a n d th a t I s k hak o t a n d B uner ha d to be de a lt with for their misdeeds The Gener a l Offi cer comm a n di ng men a n d the a ssist a nce a t Pesh a w a r re q uired of the he a vy b a ttery a t th a t st a tion to punish the U tm a n Khe l s but it w a s di ffi cult to a ssemble so l a rge a force j ust then C a v a g n ari proposed a nother pl a n of c a mp a ign There w a s a holy m a n n a med Rukn u d din M ia ( genera lly known a s M ia Rukn) w ho ha d his home a t a pl a ce c a lled S a pri consisting of two or three h a mlets of twenty to thirty houses e a ch loc a ted in the hills a bout four to fi v e miles in the interior a n d a bout the s a me dist a nce from the works on the new c a n al This tra ct lying between ,
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EXPEDITI ON To
187 2 - 7 9
SA P RI
59
the M ohm an d s a n d U tm a n Khe l s w a s inh a bited by Mull a gori ha m sa yahs ( ha m s a ya h me a ns a person or persons livi ng under the sh a dow or protection of M ia Rukn w a s supposed to h a ve so m eone else) brought down the r a id which c a used such fa t a l execution a mongst the coolies He ha d a n e vil reput a tion bec a use he ha d sever a l unholy sons w ho were h a nd a n d glove with all the c a ttle thieves a sso c ia t e d w ith the Pesh a w a r Dist ri ct a n d every a nim a l stolen fr om cert a in qu a rters w a s brought to S a pri a n d either sold or r a nsomed through their me a ns they securing a cert a in sh a re in e a ch a n d every tr a ns a ction It w a s thought th a t by c a pturing M ia Rukn the settlement of the U tm a n Khel questio n would be rendered much e a sier B ut how w a s this to be done ? C av a g n a ri pl a nned out the d a ring scheme himself a n d received s a nction to c a rry it out He a ppe a red a t Hoti M a rd a n one morning in Febru a ry 18 7 8 a ccomp a nied by G hol a m Muh a yuddin Kh a n Tehsild a r of D a udz a i M a hbub Kh a n of M a tt a Mogh a l Khel a n d a M ia of A b a z a i ow n cousin to th a t of S a pri but a gre a t enem y of hi s the l a st t w o being told th a t they were required to a ssist me in di sposing of a loc a l di spute M a hbub a n d the Ab a z a i M ia c a me to see me before I co ul d get a n intervi ew with C av a g n ari an d I ne a rly let the c a t out of the b a g not knowing a t th a t time th a t t hey were not in the secret One look a t the Mi a s fa ce wa rned me of my d a nger in time a n d I w a s en a bled to turn the convers a tion a n d obt a in the re a son of their coming to Hoti Ma rd a n The secret w a s well kept a n d a t sunset a bout 2 00 of the Guides c a v a lry a n d 30 infa ntry mounted on gr a ss cutters ponies St a rted from Hoti Ma rd a n a n d took the ro a d through the ,
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MARDA N
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desol a te m a ira for the hill s north of Ab a z a i som e thirty seven miles off in a be a d line Here they dis mounted from their a nim a ls a n d le a ving them in ch a rge of some thi rty men cl ambered up the difficult m ount a in side an d by 3 A M were on the hi ll a bove S a pri T he difficulty w a s to fin d out the house occupied by M ia Rukn First one vill a ge w a s t ri ed then a nother a n d at l a st c a me the cert a in news th a t he occupied a house ne a r the mosque in the fi rst h amlet Everyt hi ng depended on his c a pture a live or de a d C avag n a ri Wigra m B e ttye the Tehsild a r a n d a sm a ll p a rty got to the house a n d desired M ia Rukn t o come out By this time the a l a rm ha d S pre a d a n d the fi ring w a s ve ry brisk whilst frien dl ies c a me pour ing in to the a id of the residents of S a pri M ia Rukn fi n di ng th a t there w a s no esc a pe a sked for the Tehsild a r to come ne a r him a s he ha d a r equest to m a ke When Ghol a m Muh ayuddin Kh a n got quite close to him the holy m an suddenly whipped out a sm a ll d a gger an d struck h a rd a n d stra ight at the wa ist of the Tehsild a r but the point of the da gger gl a nced off a pocket book of Maj or C a v a g n a ri s which he ha d a sked him to c a rry for him It w a s a lucky esc a pe As the M ia moved to further a ction he w a s shot down by Duffa d a r Torrab az Kh a n Kuki Khel Afri di of the Guides c a va lry Killing some fiv e or six of the enemy which now numbered some 300 persons the g a ll a nt Gui des fought their w ay leisurely to the level country removing their wounded got to their horses a n d went into Fort A b a z a i for th a t d ay the o fficer comm anding the fort h aving received orders from the Brig a d ier Gener a l comm a nding the Pesh a wa r Dist ri ct to give them every aid an d help in hi s power ,
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1 87 2 - 7 9
S URPRI SED
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would not let me t a ke p a rt in t hi s S a pri w a s too fa r from my ch a rge He a ffair as received gre a t a n d deserved pra ise from the aut hori ties for hi s l ittle c a mp a ig n c a rried out with the re test d a sh a n d br a ve ry ; but it did not bring the a g U tm an Khel to their senses a n d it requir ed a nother little brush to bring the m down on their knees By the close of Febru a ry 18 7 8 the J a wa ki w ar w a s over a n d the G ui des infa nt ry were b a ck a t Hoti Ma rda n a n d on a ccount of the mora l effect it woul d produce a b a tt ery of mo un t a in guns w a s loc a ted wi th us for a period C a v a g n a ri being too busy a t Pesh a w ar di rected me to a rr a nge for the surprise of I s khak ot in consul t a tion wi th the Comm and a nt of the Gui des M a ny were the consul t a tions we held secretly a s to how thi s w a s to be done an d a bove a ll it w a s necess a ry th a t not a bre a th of our intentions should be reve a led to a n y one sin ce B aniz ai spies swa rmed in numbers a t M a rd a n a n d in every vil l a ge to the Sw a t Border It w a s a h a rd nut to cr a ck for the foll owing re as ons It w a s a strong vil l age n um bering 5 00 a rmed men It w a s situ a ted on a r av in e wi th perpen di cul a r b a nk s fi fty to sixty feet in height with onl y t w o p a ss a ges t hr ough it The vill a ges ne a r to I s khak ot co ul d supply some men irre s pe c t ive of a ny aid th a t mi ght come from Swa t A short tim e previous thi s Vill a ge ha d defi ed the Kh a n of D ir a n d thous a nds of hi s g a thering w ho ha d been compelled to retire in di sg ra ce I n M a y 1 85 2 a force of r a nk a n d fi l e with eight guns under com m and of Sir Colin C a mpbell ha d defe a ted these Rani z ais a n d Sw a tis a t thi s very spot burnt I s kha kot to the gr ound with a loss of eleven kil led an d twenty ni ne wounded on our side C av a gn a ri
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MA RDAN
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We went to the T a kht i B a hi hill one d a y no mi n a lly to inspect the ruins a n d h a ve a picnic but in re a lity to ex a mine the I s khak ot position with our telescopes a n d fi eld gl a sses We c a me to the con c l u s io n th a t the venture w a s risky with our sm a ll force of Guides infa ntry a n d c a v a lry a bout 700 strong but possible of success if we could only get without a l a rming the residents to a hill on the opposite side of the vill a ge which hill comm a nded I s khak ot At l a st the eventful d a y a rrived a n d C a v ag n a ri c a me over from Pesh a w a r At sunset the Guides infa ntry c a v a lry a n d guns of the mount a in b a ttery st a rted from Hoti M a rd a n on this expedition the secret of which ha d been c a refully kept so much so th a t even the guides to di rect us through th a t tremendous r a vine a t night time ha d to be secured a t the l a st moment Luckily one of them a M a lik of Sherg a rh knew every inch of the country a n d besides w a s a n enemy of the I s k hak ot M aliks The pl a n of c a mp a ign w a s a s follows M aj or (now M a j or Genera l) G Stewa rt with two comp a nies of the Guides infa ntry a n d led b y the M a lik of Sherg a rh w a s to go on in a dva nce a n d get t o the top of the hill on the other side without The rem a ining six comp a nies a ttr a cting a ttention were to cross the r a vine by the s ame ford a n d move The in a north e a sterly di rection on the vill a ge gun s under a suit a ble escort were to rem a in on our side of the r a vine a bout three qu a rters of a mile a bove our ford a n d help us with their fi re when the time c a me M a j or Wigr a m B at t ye w a s to rem a in with the guns until d a wn a n d then trot up by the northern ford a n d t a ke up his position on the north of the vill a ge to prevent the residents from esc a ping -
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MA RD A N
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he a rd on inform ation which I believe th a t a t the very moment we were there the huj ra cont a ined rupees being a t a x of four rupees per house collected for the Kh a ns of Al a d a n d a n d Th a n a h It w a s a kind w a y of showi ng to me th a t my estim a ted fi n e of three rupees per house w a s not a n excessive one The U tm a n Khel s h a ving fa iled to su rrender the s a me force which ha d oper a ted a g a inst I skhak ot w a s moved up to Z am ne a r T a ngi some three mile s north e a st of Ab a z a i a n d enc amped there for the night No one expected a fi ght for reports ha d been brought in th a t on our a ppe a ra nce the people would a t once gi ve in The bugles sounded a t 3 A M on a Ma rch morning a n d we a dva nced inside the zone of low hills le a di ng into the southern U tm a n Khel coun try Bundl es of dw a rf p a lm dry wood a n d gr a ss lying a bout here a n d there showed th a t the m e n of the hills ha d t a ke n the a l a rm an d me a nt fi ghting Na w e d an d l ay on our left but not a S ig n of m a n wom a n child or vill a ge c a ttle One com p a n y under H ammond w a s sent to the right a n d I We c ame a cross more w a s deputed to go wi t h it lo a ds recently thrown down then to the vill a ge of R a ng M a ma a n d two Buch a h a mlets still not a sign of a n y hum a n being or a nim a ls The third B uch a l a y close to an incline th at led up gra du ally to high loft y hills a n d here a ll the a ble bodied m a les some Even then we di d 3 00 in number were collected not expect a n a tt a ck a lthough circumst a nces a ll looked the other w ay Suddenl y three men st a rted fro m the group an d c a me ra pidl y in our di rection c a lling out Come & come & in P a shtu Ma hbub Kh a n of M a tt a Mughul Khel a g a in h a ppened to be ,
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U TMAN
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18 7 2 - 7 9
65
K HE L S
me a n d ha d evidently been employed by the Tehsild a r in negoti a tions with the U tm a n Khel s for he never expected an y opposition a nd replied to the opposite side in P a shtu a lso Come on ; don t be a fr a id We were st a nding on a hillock sc a ttered a bout but not under shelter when H a mmond putting up his fi e l d gl a ss to ex a mine the a dv a ncing p a rty c a lled Look out They are going to fi re By this time the le a ding m a n ha d a ppro a ched to withi n eighty y a rds or less when he ra ised his rifle a n d fi red at a Sikh soldier st a nding ne a r me the bullet entering at one e a r a n d p a ssing out at the other the rifles of the other t w o men cra cking a lmost Then the three turned a n d fled S imult a neousl y whilst the Sikh comp a ny opened fi re on them The fi rst m a n a ttra cted a ttention most a n d a s he ra n the bullets c a st up the dust in front of him a n d below his legs a n d his esc a pe w a s m a rvellous Just ho w ever a s he w a s re a ching the door le a ding into the vi ll a ge a n d whe n a nother two steps would h a ve brought him into a pl a ce of s a fety a bullet c a ught him in the middle of the b a ck a n d knocked hi m over The m a in body then a dv a nced the guns opened fi re a n d a t l a st the U tm a n Khe l s h a ving lost sixteen killed a n d fe a ring th a t their vill a ges would be burnt down g a ve in We m a rched b a ck to Z a m enc a mped there for the night a n d the next morning re a ched our qu a rters a t Hoti Ma rd a n We ha d only one m a n killed the Sikh a fores a id who di ed within twenty four hours of his being wounded Nothing would or could induce the Pa nj a b Govern ment to t a ke a ctive me a sures by force a g a inst the B u nerw a l s The Am b eyl a c a mp a ign w a s still re membered a n d twenty ye a rs more were to p a s s
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66
MARD A N
on
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v
w a y before the hollowness of the Buner bubble w a s to be exposed by the events of 1898 When at l a st the Hindus of Buner tired of a blocka de th a t w a s m i nin g them an d w a s not touching the P a th a n ele ment forced the whole Buner j irg a to com e in a n d m a ke terms the As ha z ai Ma liks ( the strongest section in Buner) S a a d a t N a wa b a n d K adir old men w ho ha d fought a g a inst us a t Am b eyl a c a me before me with the j irg a an d s a id S a hib up to an d a fter the fi ght a t L alu every combin a tion th a t w e ha d formed a g a inst you ha d been defe a ted a n d routed There w a s nothi ng to stop yo u r troops entering the Buner country Why did you not go there ? T hi s w a s a question to which I co ul d gi ve no a nswer Th a nks to my kind c hi ef Maj or C av a g n a ri w ho never fa iled to remember my sm a ll servi ces I w as fi v e times complimented by the Government of the P a nj ab on three occ a sions by the Secret a ry of St a te for I n di a a n d the a ccomp a nying telegra m d a ted M a rch 2 7 187 8 w a s received from the Commi ssioner The Lieuten a nt Governor telegra phs th a t his Excel l en c y the Viceroy desires congr a t ul a tions an d w a rmest th a nks to be conveyed t o you a n d a ll concerned for the successful issue of concluding U tm a n Khel a ffa ir C av ag n a ri w a s the be a u ide a l of a chief a n d it w a s a tre a t a n d honour to serve under such a m a n DO yo u r best a n d I will b a ck you through thick a n d thin Never m ind reporting but act ; when a m a n a lly t a kes to reporting ets into f fi culties he gener di g were phra ses th a t C av a g n ari in his geni al w ay im He never forgot a j unior w ho p l a nted in my mind ha d once served him well but would do a ll in hi s m h i ower to push on whenever the ch ance c a me in p a
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67
C A VA GNA RI
1 872 -7 9
his w ay In this wise he m a de himself loved by his subordin ates a n d his memory is de a rly cherished by those who ha d the privilege of being connected in offi ci al life with him He w a s in a d di t ion to other m atters gifted wi th one qu ality which I h ave never seen or m et with in a n y other o ffici al He would g a llop off forty mil es or so go through som e such expe di tion three of which I h a ve described hurry b a ck to he a d qu a rters ; then without h aving t aken or m a de a ny notes he woul d sit down a n d w rite his report of ten fi ft een twenty p a ges of foolsc a p all in the best English in a most be a utiful cle a r h a nd without a single blot or era sure then post it off himself an d the thing w a s done The m orning a fter our fift y mile trip to I s khak o t a bout seven of us were in Wigr a m B att ye s room t a lking an d m a king a hideous noise whilst se a ted at a t a ble in the s ame room w a s C av ag n a ri writing out his report cle ar , full and in the most be a utiful penm a nsh ip utterly in di fferent to the din going on round a bo ut him H a d his precious life been sp a red for another ye a r or t w o he would h a ve a sked the Government of Indi a to bestow the frontier med a l on those troops whi ch ha d served with him in these three expeditions , an d they richl y deserved it .
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C H AP T E R
VI
KH YBE R A ND JE L AL L A BA D 187 9—1882
F AI z M UHAMM AD KH AN, AB ABAK KAR KHEL GHIL z AI , son of th a t Muh a mm a d Sh a h Kh a n w ho ha d custody of L a dy M a cn ag ht e n , L a dy S a le , Genera l Elphinstone ,
our host a ges a t B a di a b a d given on the occ a sion of the d is a strous retre a t from C a ubul in 1 84 2 ha d stopped Genera l Sir Neville Ch amberl a in s mis sion a dv a ncing beyond Al i Ma sj id towa rds D a kk a At t hi s period he ha d been m a de e n rou t e to C a ubul Civil Governor of Al i M a sj id by Am ir Sher Al i Kh an a n d the intervi ew between him a n d C a v a g n a ri when the progress of the mission w a s b a rred took pl a ce on September 21 187 8 a t a sm a ll wa termill on the right b a nk of the stre a m between L a l a Chen a a n d When w a r ha d been decl a red a g ainst Ali M a sjid Am ir Sher Ali Kh a n in the beginnin g of November C av a gn ari w a s enc a mped a t J a mrud with the c a v a lry a n d infa ntry of the Guides l s t Sikhs P a nj a b Field Force a b a ttery of mount a in guns while other troops were collecting I j ourneyed from Hoti M a rd a n to see him I h ave worked well for you I s a id on the Yusufz a i Frontier ; t a ke me with you a s your a ssist a nt in this coming c a mp aign C av a g n ari reflected a n d then In wh a t w a y could I utilise your servi ces ? a sked My answer w as Persi a n a n d P a shtu a re a s fa mili a r t o me a s English I could be useful at D akk a J e l all an d
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70
KH Y BER A ND JEL A LL A BA D
on
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v1
cut off A few words will expla in how this body of British troops got behind the enemy s position at Ali M a sj id The m a in ro a d from Pesh a wa r to C a ubul p a sses through J a mrud going a lmost due e a st t o west After le a ving J a mrud it p a sses through a n e a sy country h a ving low hill s on the left h a nd side at a n a n d a bout the third mile it enters the hills opening c a lled Sh a di B a gi a r A ridge from the lofty Ghund gh a r on the left runs down to the ro a d a n d f a ces a simil a r ridge coming down from a prolong a tion of the Rhot a s R a nge The hi ghwa y runs for a short di st a nce through the bed of a r a vine a n d then 42 j oins the ro a d m a de by Colonel M a ckeson in 18 3 9— unt il it a scends to the Sh a g a i pla te a u on the left h a nd side a n d here Al i M a sj id is seen for the fi rst time Still going westw a rd the ro a d turns to the right an d by a n e a sy zigz a g descends to the stre a m a n d below Ali M sjid runs long its side A l i a a n d a ) ( M a sj id goes up the wa terwa y The new ro a d a long the cli ff w a s m a de by us in 187 9—80 a n d here is t he n a rrowest p a ss of the Khyber not more th a n 15 feet bro a d with the Rhot a s hill on the right h a nd fully feet overhe a d Still progres sing a t a bout 4 00 y a rds from Al i M a sj id on the left h a nd side three or four l a rge springs issuing from the rock give the whole wa ter supply to this qu a rter Between t w o a n d three miles comes the M a lik din Khel h a mlet of K a tt a Kushti a ; soo n a fter Gurg urra is re a ched a n d then we a re in Z a kh a Khel l imits in the re a l Khyber proper until we come to the Shinwa ris of L a ndi Kot a l or more properly L o arg i The v a lley now widens out an d on either side lie the h a mlets some sixty forts of the Z a kh a Khel Afri di s and Here there is no stre a m an d the residents h a ve to
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MA CP HE RSON S
1879 82
71
BRI GADE
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depend on r a inw a ter collected in t a nks The L o a rg i Shinw a ri pl a te a u is some seven mile s in length a n d three in its wi d est p a rt Just here a bove L a n di Kh a n a the old ro a d w a s a very n a sty bit After L a n di Kh a n a the gre a t C a ubul highw a y p a sses b e tween low hills until it debouches on the C a ubul River From Sh a di B a gi a r to L a n di a n d le a ds to D a kk a Kh an a the p a ss c a nnot be more th a n twenty miles in a di rect line When the fi rst det a chment of our troops returned from C a ubul they m a rched from Ali Ma sj id a long the bed of the stre a m by L a l a Chen a Jab b ag a i G a gri K a dda m a n d Jam vill a ges of the Kuki Khel Afr i di s to J a mrud ; but Colonel M a ckeson , fi n ding this w a y extremely difficult a n d unsuit a ble for guns a n d wheeled tr affi c m a de a n excellent ro a d from Al i Ma sj id to Fort J a mrud through the hills the s a me th a t we now use St a rting from Fort J a mrud a footp ath over the s t on y c ou n t ry goes in a north west di rection to Gud a r a sm a ll h a mlet the birthpl a ce a n d home of th a t gra nd old soldier Sub a of the 2 ot h d a r M a j or M a ul a d a d Kha n P a nj a b Infa ntry a n d p a ssing round the e a stern bend of the h a mlet crosses a fa irly good perenni a l stre a m winds through the L a shor a Va lley a n d S a pr a i belong ing to the Kuki Khel Afridi s p a sses between Rhot a s L a kk a a n d the highest pe a k of the T a rt a rra r a nge Sa r an d descends into the Khyber ro a d a t K a tt a Kushti a It w a s a most diffi cult ro a d to tra verse in those d a ys especi a lly a t night time At 4 p m on the evening of November 2 0 Gener a l Ma cpherson s brig a de commenced a turning move ment a n d a bout 4 p m on the 2 l s t a fter a m a rch of twenty four hours the Guides infa ntry a n d l s t Sikh s found themselves a t K a tt a Kushti a an d prep a red to .
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72
KH Y BER A ND JEL AL L ABA D
on
.
v
&
close the P a ss a g a inst the retre a t of the Af gh a n troops in Ali M a sj id This a rriv a l a t K a tt a Kushti a w a s soon communic a ted to F a iz Muh a mm a d Kh a n The Afridis ha d not then thrown in their lot with the A fgh a ns a n d in re ality never did but there w a s one good m a n with them in Al i M a sj id w ith a few of his cl a nsmen n a mely Ma lik W a lli Muh a mm a d Kh a n , Z a kh a Khel Duri ng the night of November 2 1 he removed the whole g a rrison by a ro a d known to hi m le a ding due South of Ali M a sj id a n d every Af ridi thence to the B a z ar Va lley an d by the Sa s s ob a i P a ss into Jel all a b a d The ra sc a lly Z a kh a Khel de priv e d the Afgh a n troops of a bout 800 of their rifles on the morning of November 2 2 18 7 8 Ali and M a sj id w a s found v a c a ted a n d w a s occupied by our troops Re a ching D a kk a a n d requiring a nother a ssist a nt to go on with him a s Cunningh a m a n d Tucker were posted between J a mrud a n d D a kk a C a v ag n ari m a de The reply w as a second a pp l ic a tion for m y services couched in simil a r terms to the fi rst telegra m We c a nnot sp a re Wa rburton but you c a n h a ve J e n kyn s At th a t time J e n kyn s w a s o ffi ci a ting a s Deputy Commissioner of Pesh a wa r a n d to en a ble him to go on thi s ne w duty he w a s relieved by M aj or H a stings then c a rrying out the Koh a t Settlement A short time a fter this Cunningh a m went b a ck to the P a nj ab Secret a ri a t a n d a v a c a ncy a rising C av a g n ari m a de a third a pplic a tion on my beh a lf ; but the result w a s the s a me a s before so fa r a s I w a s concerned but M a j or Conolly Judici a l Assist a nt from di st a nt Dera Ism a il Kh a n w a s sent up by the P a nj a b Government The division under comm a nd of Genera l Sir Sa m Browne a dv a nced secured J el all ab a d a n d there .
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WI GRA M
1879- 82
BA TTYE KI LLED
73
it ha d a short rest C a v a g n a ri wrote to me st a ting th a t he ha d ma de severa l a ttempts to get me em ployed under him all of which ha d f a iled but th a t he intended continuing to a pply whenever a n y further ch a nce occurred I a lso he a rd from the g a lla nt Wigra m B a t t ye — the only letter I ever received from him a n d which ha s been tre a sured ever since— to the s a me e ffect regretting th a t I ha d been stopped from going up but s a ying th a t C av a g n a ri ha d one other ide a which he me a nt to c a rry out with a view to get me Going in to see Mr (now Sir Don a ld) Ma cn a bb Commissioner of the Division a t Pesh a w a r I a ccident a lly c a me upon C a v a g n ari w ho ha d j ust ridden down from J e la lla b a d a n d w a s proceeding to interview his E x c ell e n c yL ord L ytt on Vic eroy a n d Governor Gener a l of In d i a then shortly expected a t L a hore C a v a g n a ri a ssured me th a t he ha d not forgotten me B a d news however now c a me pouring in & g a lla nt Wigr a m B a t t ye ha d been killed a t F u t t eha b a d ch a rgi ng a t the he a d of his c a v a lry a n d so beloved w a s he by his men tha t his troopers c a rried the dooly th a t con t ain e d his body a l l the w a y to J el a ll a b a d a bout fourteen miles A squ a dron of the l 0t h Huss a rs in crossing the C a ubul River ha d some forty six men a n d one o ffi cer drowned Living with Wigr a m B att ye a n d sh a ring his qu a rters during the winter of 18 7 7 — 7 8 I ha d a good opportunity of seeing the w a y he tre a ted a n d w a s beloved by his men The most troublesome troop in t he Guides c a v al ry w a s the F a rs iw an troop & trouble some in this w a y only—th a t they were a very sm a rt a n d peppery lot a n d on a n y griev a nce which they felt individu als would come forwa rd a n d a s k to h a ve ,
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74
K H YBER A ND JEL AL L ABA D
on
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v
&
t heir n a mes removed from the regiment , 73e they wa nted their disch arge A fe w words from Wigra m a n d the most discontented m a n went a w a y thoroughl y h a ppy One night a s we were a t dinner news w a s brought to mess th a t a Sikh ris s ald ar who w a s dying from a long a n d lingering illness wished to see B att ye w ho went a n d we followed him to the dying m a n s bedside He w a s one of the old school who ha d fought for the Kh a ls a a g a inst the British between 184 5 a n d 184 8 a n d h a ving t a ken service with us on the bre a k up of the Sikh power ha d fought equ a lly g a ll a ntly for the Queen Empress of Indi a With his long white be a rd falling over his chest the dying soldi er seized Wig ram s h a nds a n d s a id S a hib if a t a n y time th a t I h a ve been serving under you I h a ve committed a n y fa ult or m a de a ny mist a ke ple a se forgive me now A telegr a m c a me from M a j or C a v a g n ari a t L a hore di recting me to meet him a t N a ushehr a th a t s a me evening a s he ha d a t l a st obt a ined s a nction to my being employed under him So riding to N a ushehra I ha d my dinner a n d retired to rest a s I knew C a v a g n a ri could not possibly be there before 3 or He a rrived a bout the fi rst hour an d rousing 4 AM me g a ve me instructions reg a r d ing my new duties under him a n d told me to hurry up from Hoti M a rd a n a s soon a s possible He then s a id I must st a rt now a s I h a ve to re a ch Pesh a wa r a n d go o ff a t once to G a n d a m a k where I a m shortly expecting the Going up to his d ak gh a rry to Am ir Ya kub Kh a n see him m a ke his st a rt I found Ibr a him Kh a n of Z a id a perched on the se a t by the co a chm a n After bre a kf a st I went b a ck to Hoti M a rd a n p a cked up my things a n d received the usu a l P a nj ab notifi c a tion .
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KHYBER
76
A ND JEL ALL A BAD
t r
on
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v1
in c o m m a n d o f hem have n o l ocal e x p erie n ce T he rem ov al o f C a p a in Wa b ur on w ill he efore l ea ve Yu suf z a i w i ho u a n y o ffi cer— civil o r m ili a r — w ho kn ow s a n d is k n o w n b h h a d m en o f t he t a n s -b ord e r rib e s t e e y This b ein g t he c a s e , t he w i hdraw a l o f t he on l o ffic er a va il a b l e w i h c o m p e en l o c a l k n owl e d e is t o b e se i o u s l g a nd
t he
o ffic e rs
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W arb urt on —I s en d you t his ex t ra c t from a l et t er s en t t o m e b y G over n m e n t as I t hin k it will s a t isfy you t ha t i t is n ot fro m a n y w a n t o f a pprec ia ti on of your m erit s or from a n y in t en tion of hin d er in g you r s uc ce ss in your pr ofes sion a l care e r t ha t t he P anj ab Gove rn m en t have pr event e d you r g oin g t o C a v a gn ari N o w t ha t t he hot w e a t her is co m in g on you shoul d b e m ore re c on c ile d t o s t a y M y d e ar
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( Si g n e d )
Yo urs ,
D C M A C NAB B .
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M aj or C av a g n a ri then urged th a t the control of the Khyber P a ss portion from Fort Ja mrud to L a n di Kh a n a should be m a n a ged by the Government of the Pa nj a b a n d in this wise the Khyber Pa ss w a s tra nsferred from the Government of Indi a to th a t of the P a nj a b in A pril 18 7 9 Ma j or H a stings w a s sent up to L a ndi Kot a l a s Politic a l O fficer of the Khyber Mr W R Merk going a s his a ssist a nt to Ali Ma sj id whilst Mr H B Beckett Deputy Com missioner Der a Gh a zi Kh a n w a s tra nsferred in the s a me c a p a city to t a ke H a stings s pl a ce a t Pesh a wa r The Afridi s urged on by m ul l a hs a n d a gents of Am ir Sher Al i Kh a n ha d brought down a la s hka r or a rmy a s they c a lled it on Al i M a sj id a bout three d a ys a fter it ha d f a ll en into our h a nds ( a bout November 2 5 They a tt a cked our troops one night fi red into our c a mp a n d then went b a ck to their homes a s they ha d no he a rt for fi ghting a g a inst us All the ,
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TREAT Y
187 9-82
77
OF GA NDA M A K
m ischief
th at w as being done w as the work of the Z akh a Khel m a r a uders living at Il a ch a K a ramn a B arg an d in the B a z ar Va lley This will be de a lt with l a ter on when I come to my m a n a gement of the Khyber ch a rge The Tre a ty of Ga n d a m a k w a s signed towa rds the end of M ay 18 7 9 a n d a ll the troops —British a n d n ative —were hurried b a ck out of the Jel al l a b a d Va lley towa rds Pesh a wa r Choler a followed in their footsteps a n d t a inted every enc a mpment from Jel a ll a b a d to Ab b ot ab a d to Murree a n d p a st R a wa l Pindi towa rds L a hore The Guides c a va lry a n d infa ntry returned to Hoti Ma rd a n Jen kyn s who a s S enior A ssist a nt to Sir L C av ag n a ri ha d come to m ake a rr a ngements for the m arch of the m ission to C a ubul from Hoti M a rd a n via Pesh a wa r Koh a t a n d Kurra m s a id to me in the kindest m anner I h a ve got the berth C av a g n ari me a nt for you ; a s I served under him an d you were not a llowed to come he could not throw me over It w a s impossible to resist th a nking hi m Besides a a n d I wished him every good fortune friend ha d wri tten to me from Siml a an d imp a rted to me as a secret th a t C a v a gn ari ha d a sked for me to go w ith him to C a ubul a s his priv a te secret ary I ha d therefore still h 0 pe of j oining their p a rty—a hope which now rec a lled in the l ight of a fter events w a s fortun a tely perh a ps not ful fil led The m onth of July c a me round a n d Mr Ma cn a bb , our Comm issioner ha d gone a w a y to R aw al Pin di a n d his pl a ce ha d been t a ken by Colonel W G W a ter fi eld j ust returned from Kurra m I received a letter from the l a tter a sking me into Pesh a w a r he s a id The a n d when I a ppe a red before him ,
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KH YBER
78
A ND JE LAL LA BA D
011
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v1
Lieuten a nt Governor of the P a nj a b o ffers you the ? ost of Politic a l O f fi cer Khyber Will you a ccept it p I of course s a id Y es I then le a rnt th a t Mr M erk ha d left Al i M a sj id a n d ha d gone a w a y stricken down by a b a d a tt a ck of fever a n d th a t M a j or H a stings w a s a nxious to t a ke furlough to Europe a n d hence the ch a nce of my t a king over his work On July 3 1 18 79 I re a ched Fort Ja mrud a n d duties in the evening an d met M a j or H a stings who ha d I c ome down from L a ndi Kot a l e a rly th a t morning ha d not been inside the fort since my one visit some M P e rs before with Mr W H Smith But wh at a y In every direction a ch a nge w a s now going on & qu a rters a n d b a rr a cks were being put up o ffic e rs with lightning ra pi di ty We were entert a ined by the o fficers of the l ot h Beng a l L a ncers a n d the he a t in t he ver a nd a h a s we ha d our evening me a l w a s some t hing to be remembered but I felt it more a s it w a s my fi rst d ay of initi a tion E a rly next morning we rode to Al i Ma sj id ha d lunch a n d in the a fternoon j ourneyed on to L a ndi Kot a l which w a s re a ched At th a t time there August 1 18 7 9 a bout 6 P M w ere two British a n d three N a tive Inf a ntry regiments t hree mount a in b a tteries two comp a nies of S a ppers a n d Miners a tr 0 0 p of the 10t h Beng a l L a ncers two c omp a nies of Khy ber Je z a il c hie s a n d a goodly st a ff with o fficers of the Commiss a ri a t a n d Ordn a nce De loc The dre ded a ted a t the pl a te a u rtm e n t s a a p c holer a w a s in c a mp a n d every morning a n d evening o n e or two victims were consigned to the cemetery ; a n d the funer a l procession from the time it left the hospit a l mortu a ry to the time the body w a s consigned to e a rth w a s cle a rly visible to a ll But wh a t ha d m a de the pl a ce so unhe althy ? Irrespective of other -
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KH YBER
80
A ND JEL ALL ABAD
on
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v1
In spite of the l a rge g a rrison a t L a n di Kot a l a n d the a bunda nce of picquets an d sentries thrown out every ni ght nothi ng w as s a fe from the depred a tions of Shinwa ri Shilm ani a n d Z a kh a Khel thi eves Ne a rl y every ni ght some tent w a s entered a n d property c a rried ofi Firing a s might be expected w a s brisk but the bu llets seemed to c a use more a nnoy a nce to the sleeping g a rrison th an to the sne a k ing thief w ho esc a ped in the d a rkness The Govern m ent of the P a nj a b urged on us to h a sten down a ll the M aliks who ha d thrown in their lot with the British Government a s well a s those who ha d sh a red the fort unes of the Amir of Af gh a ni st a n together with full complete j irga s from every tribe sh a ring in the a llowa nces of the Khyber R a nge a n d h a ving brought them down to Pesh a wa r to see whether some a rr a ngement could not be m a de w ith them by which pe a ce could be a ssured throughout the Khyber from one end to the other a t a ll se a sons of the ye a r Four of the most import a nt M aliks —Ahm a d Kh a n Sip a h S a rfa ra z Kh a n Ma likdin Khel Abdull a Nur Kuki Khel a n d Wa lli Muh a mm a d Kh a n Z ak h a Khel—ha d thrown in their lot from the very beginn ing with the Am ir s p a rt y bec a use it w a s from th a t qu a rter th at they ha d been getting their Khyber a t r a re interv a ls were a llow a nces whenever these doled out to the tribesmen a n d bec a use they ha d no f a ith in the continu ance of a n y British policy The C a ub ul a llowa nces were cert a inly sm a ll but the tribes men got something in the end ; on the other h a nd they di d not know how long the w ar woul d l a st a n d whether a t its close the British S ark a r would not throw them over if it suited t he Government to do so The lessons of the first and second Afgh a n ,
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M A S SA C RE OF C A VA GNA RI S ’
1879 82 -
MI SSION
81
wa rs were fi rmly impl a nted in their minds a n d After a good de a l of needful pushing memories every M ali k or chief a n d every t rib a l a n d urging j irg a fully represented m a rched down to Pesh a w a r a n d by September 6 18 7 9 H a stings fi rst a n d then I j oined them a n d the work of a rr a ngement com .
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Just then c a me the terrible news from Al i Khel in the form of a telegr a m telling us th a t on Sep tember 3 18 7 9 the Residency a t C a ubul ha d been a tt a cked a n d th a t Sir L C av a g n a ri J e n kyn s W a lter H a milton Ambrose Kelly with a ll the escort of Guides c a v a lry a n d infa ntry serva nts etc ha d been m a ss a cred an d the buildings destroyed by fi re a fter being plundered by Y a kub Kh a n s sol d iery a n d the C a ubul mob This crushing c a l a mity fell like a thunderbolt on the In di a n world a n d every one deplored the de a th of our bra ve a n d gifted Envoy of g a ll a nt Wa lter H a milton (j ust a ged twenty one) a n d of those com p a ni ons who ha d m a de a defence a g a inst overwhelm ing numbers—a defence never to be forgotten so long a s Englishmen know how to a dmire a n d reverence such fe a ts a s the Guides performed on th a t s a dly to be remembered d a y To me person a lly I ha d the gre a test C a v a g n a ri s loss w a s irrep a r a ble splendid a bilities a d m ir a tion for the m a n a n d his a s a public serv a nt of the St a te ; but on person a l grounds I ha d every re a son to deplore the de a th of one who ha d a lwa ys stood my friend a n d ha d helped me whenever opportunity o ffered in his w a y H a stings ha d been a ppointed to the Politic a l St a ff of Gener a l Roberts comm a nding the troops in Kurr a m a n d a s they were to move a s e a rly a s po s ,
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G
KHYBER
82
A ND
JEL AL L A BA D
011
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v
sible in a dva nce of the J el a ll a b a d Field Force he left a t once for Koh a t en rou t e to Kurr a m to j o in there For twent y two d a ys a fter his dep a rture the a rra nge ments with the Afri di s were left in my h a nds a n d on September 2 8 1 8 7 9 I sent up my fi n a l report to the Commissioner for the inform a tion of Government My friend M a lik Wa lli Muh a mm a d Kh a n Z a kh a Khel ha d got wh a t he w a nted a n d wh a t w a s his right viz the Ma liki ( or chieft a inship) of h a lf the Z a kh a Khel Afri di s the most import a nt tribe in the Khyber R a nge mustering some a rmed men every individu a l being a thief ra ider an d robber by birth inclin a tion an d h a bit c a rried down for m a ny centuries The riv a l c hi ef w a s M a lik Khwa s Kh a n Ye a rs a fter this a rrangement with the Khyber Afri di s which w a s the best th a t could be m a de under the circumst a nces W a lli Muh a mm a d Kh a n when ever ch a rged by me w ith a n y neglect of my orders would s a y When I w a s in w a nt a n d trying to get my M a liki did you not bring out a b a g of rupees a n d Here is money for you to spend a n d strengthen s ay An d did you your p a rty if you are in w a nt of c a sh not secure for me my M a liki ? An d a m I going to work a g a inst you a fter wh a t you h a ve done for me ? Af ter an experience of this in di vidu a l extending over eighteen ye a rs I c a n s a y he w a s a lwa ys a good a n d st a unch friend to me I w a s a ppointed Chief Politic a l O fficer with Gener a l Sir R 0 B right comm a nding the J el a ll a b a d Field Force but a s we were not expected to a dva nce until c a rri a ge a n d tra nsport ha d been secured we were not much hurried in our movements H a ving completed my work a t Pesh a w a r I went up to L a ndi Kot a l Mr Merk h a ving been sent to me a s a ssist a nt ,
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KH YBER
84
A ND JEL AL L A BA D
011
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v1
kicking a n d the s a nction being received the money w a s m a de over to them a n d this m a de them h a ppy Mr Cunningh a m from the P a nj a b Secret a ri a t the s ame who ha d been a ppointed under Sir L C av a g n a ri in November 18 78—h a ving a rrived a t L a ndi Kot a l to t a ke m y pl a ce I g a ve over ch a rge a bout October 10 1 8 7 9 a n d j oined Gener a l Bright s c a mp then pitched a t the s a me loc a lity A tele gra m from the Foreign Secret a ry h a stened my dep a r ture in a dv a nce to J e l all a b a d for the purpose of m a king a n inquiry into the revenue returns of th a t district a n d when I re a ched Je l a ll ab a d I found Gener a l ( now Sir Ch a rles) G ough with portions of his comm a nd inclu d ing the Guides c a v a lry a n d infa ntry enc amped there I pitched my tent ne a r the c a mp of the Guides a n d w a s m a de a t home a t their mess Colonel ( now Sir Fr a n c is H ) Jenki ns in t ro d u c e d me to S a rd a r Abdul Kh a lik Kh a n B a r a kz a i of the Of Besud ( brother Of S a rd a r M a d d a t Kh a n s a me pl a ce) who j ust a t th a t moment h a ppened to be in his c a mp Both these brothers ha d done good service for Sir L C a v a g n a ri in the previous spring e a ch a wri tten a cknowledgment ha d been a n d to given recommending him to the good gra ces of a ll Englishmen The B esud fa m ily consisted Of four brothers ; of these S a rd a r M a d d a t Kh a n w a s the senior then c a me S a rd a r Abdul Kh a lik ( Kh a lo) Kh a n both these being extremely h a ndsome men a bout six feet high a n d of splendid appe ara nce Next d a y the Genera l with the Guides a n d other troops then pre sent a t J e l a ll a b a d moved a wa y towa rds G a n d a m a k their pl a ces being t a ken by other troops from the re a r My work a bout a scert a ining the revenues of the ,
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M UHA MMAD HA SSAN KH AN
1879- 82
85
di strict w a s
lightened by discovering th a t a good sized volume ha d a lre a dy been l a tely written by Je n k yn s who w a s killed a t C a ubul giving a com pl et e list of everything th a t one could wish for This work ha d been printed a t the Foreign O ffi ce Press a n d a ll th a t I ha d to do w a s to dr a w the a ttention of the Foreign Secret a ry to it a n d to a s k th a t sever a l copies should be sent down for our use In a few d a ys Gener a l Bright a n d his St a ff a ppe a red a t J e l a ll a b a d a l a rge c a mp w a s formed there a n d we were looking forwa rd to a merry Christm a s a n d dre ami ng of h a ppy times little thinking of wh a t wo ul d a ctu a lly t ake pl a ce before December 2 5 c ame round S a rd a r Muh a mm a d H a ss a n Kh a n (the s a me w ho c a me to Engl a nd with Sh a hz a d a N a srull a Kh a n in gra ndson of S a rd a r F ut t e h Kh a n w a s then Governor Of J e l a ll a b a d on beh a lf Of Am ir Ya kub Kh a n to whom he w a s deeply a n d devotedly a tt a ched An d with some re a son They ha d been brought up together in their chil dh ood a t Hera t When Am ir Ya kub Kh a n trusting to his fa ther s word c a me from Hera t to C a ubul a n d w a s thrown into a cell to undergo ne a rly six ye a rs imprison m ent t he cell a d j oining his ha d been a llotted to Muh a mm a d Ha ss a n Kh a n w ho w a s sen t in ch a ins from M a sh a d to Hera t Am ir Sher Ali Kh a n s flight t o a n d thence to C a ubul M a z a r i Sherif in 18 7 8 w a s the imme di a te c a use of the rele a se of Amir Y a kub Kh a n a n d of S a rd a r M uha m m a d H a ss a n Kh a n w ho w a s then a ppointed Governor Of Ghu z ni After the sign a ture of the tre a ty of Ga n d a m a k Am ir Ya kub Kh a n tra nsferred him in the s a me c a p a city to J e la ll a b a d a n d he rode on one horse from Ghuz ni to C a ubul interviewed his m a ster, ,
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KHYBER
86
AND JE L AL L ABAD
on
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rem a ining some d a ys there a n d then rode the s a m e a ni m a l in twenty four hours to J el al l ab a d Feeling a ssured th a t if Am ir Y a kub Kh a n w as to rem a in Ami r of A fgh a nist a n hi s Governor of J el a ll ab a d wo ul d be a better m an a n d far more useful th a n a n y nominee th at we coul d a ppoint it w as urged on the Genera l to a ccept him a s Governor a n d receive him under a gu a rd of honour a t a public durb a r— which w a s done But S a rd a r Muh a mm a d H a ss a n Kh a n s feelings were too much tied up in his m a ster s c a use in which he ha d fought a n d suffered so much for m a ny ye a rs ; an d a lthough he bec a me exceedingly friendl y with me a n d opened hi s mind freely to m e on every subj ect he still wa tched closely every move th a t w a s going on a t C a ubul with feverish a nxiety He worked h a rd for us in every w ay hoping th a t Am ir Y a kub Kh an might yet rem a in a s Am ir of Af gh a nist a n a n d he would thus h ave ple a sed both his m a ster a n d us I will quote one speci a l inst a nc e where his servi ces were extremely useful to us A l a rge c a ra v a n of c a mels belongi ng to the Ka k a Khel s of the Zia ra t Ka k a S a hi b ne a r N a ushehr a were c a rrying wa rm clothing from Pesh a wa r for Lord Rob ert s s troops a t C a ubul ; the winter w a s coming on a n d the clothing w a s urgently required there The c a r a v an re a ching D a kka would not t a ke shelter inside our fort under the gu a rd of our soldiery but went on to Girdi S a rka ni a sm a ll h amlet on the right b a nk of the C a ubul River a n d three mil es further west The Ka ka Khel s being looked upon a s holy men deeply reverenced by all Mussulm a ns felt they would be quite s a fe a nyw here especi a lly at Girdi S a rk a ni Th a t s am e night however a b a nd of S a ngu Khel Shinw a ri r aiders c a me down secured the c amels ,
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KHYBER
88
A ND JEL A LL A BAD
on
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v1
l a rge qu a ntity of stolen clothing in their far a wa y hills merely on the m a nd a te Of the Governor Of J el a ll aba d At the request of the G enera l the Governor a n d I went a w a y from Je l a ll a b a d to see where a n d in wh a t qu a rters fora ge could be procured As w e left the city by the g a te th a t fa ces C a ubul the he a d priest of the Hindu community met us a n d presented me with three to four c a rda mums For three d a ys a n d three nights I w a s the guest of S a rd a r Muh a mm a d H a ss a n Kh a n in a Ghilz a i fort ne a r Ro s a b a d an d entirely in his power I went one evening to see the Genera l w ho ha d j ust come to Ros a b a d a n d the next d a y we purposed returning to J el all a b a d A s the Gover nor a n d I rode into our fort the messenger from C a ubul followed in behind us The S a rd a r w a s in d a ily communic a tion with C a ubul a n d it is very stra nge th a t he w a s not a pprised of Amir Y a kub Kh a n s coming down to Jel all ab a d which a ctu a lly h a ppened the next d a y More curious still w a s it th a t knowing I w a s in S a rd a r Muh a mm a d H a ss a n s power without a single m a n to protect me I w a s not told of wh a t w a s going to h a ppen on the morrow If on the other h a nd S a rd a r Muh a mm a d H a ss a n Kh a n knew the evening before when we went together to Ro s ab a d th a t his m a ster a n d friend w a s being brought down a s a prisoner he cert a inly dissembled hi s feelings in a wonderful w a y Aft er dinner we pl a yed chess a n d when I retired to rest his m a nners never showed the a gony th a t must h a ve been gn a wing at his he a rt He might h a ve ha d me c a rried off or killed whilst in this lone Ghilz a i fort surrounded by his followers but he trusted a n d tre a ted me a s a n honoured g u est whose s a fety must be a ssured -
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I NTERVIE W
187 9 82 -
W ITH
YA
KU B KH AN
89
The next morning S a rda r Muh a mm a d H a ss a n Kh a n a n d I with a few Of his follo w ers rode up to the b attlefi eld of F u tt ehab a d a n d ex a mined the spot where Wigra m B a tt ye ha d ch a rged a t the he a d of his squ a dron to s a ve the guns Coming b a ck I s a w a n escort of the C a r a biniers a n d 2 4 t h P a nj a b Inf a ntry o u t a n d le a rnt th a t they were w a iting for A mir Y a kub Kha n who w a s being brought down from C a ubul under a n escort This forced me to hurry our movements a n d the Governor w a nting to return to J e l a ll ab a d by Sult a npur turned o ff the ro a d to C a n t o n m en t s whilst I kept to the m a in route an d got in a dva nce of the c a va lc a de escort ing the ex A mir Turner of the 2 n d P a nj a b Infa ntry w a s in ch a rge o f the p a rty a n d sundry dem a nds ha d to be m a de for the comfort Of the roy a l c a ptive a n d curious to rela te the Governor of J e l all a b a d ha d it in his power to let him h a ve a whiff from a k a li a n th a t once belonged to him in the Old d a y s when he w a s ruler o ver the Her a t province A fter being introduced to Amir Ya kub Kh a n a n d seeing th a t a ll his wa nts were s a tisfi ed I ventured to a s k a question h a rk ing b a ck to the time when Arminius V a mb e ry a fter h a ving seen Khiv a a n d Bokha r a a rrived a t Her a t a n d a ppe a red in S a rd a r M u h a mm a d Ya kub Kh a n s presence Mr V a m b ery in his book st a tes th a t h a ving given the benediction he s a t down next to the S a rda r a n d pushed his w a zir to one side with a The young S a rd a r peering g ood de a l of violence into his fa ce s a id Wa lla a n b il la F a ring hi ha s ti T hi s Va m b e ry denied a n d the convers a tion w a s then ch a nged H a ving reminded Amir Y a kub Kh a n of the a bove circumst a nce I a sked him if he ha d iden t ifi e d Mr Va m b ery a s a Europe a n a n d on wh a t ,
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90
KH YBER A ND JELA LL ABA D
on
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v1
grounds The ex Am ir s aid I w a s se a ted in a n upper ch a mber w a tching a p a r a de of my troops a n d the b a nd w a s pl a ying on the Open ground in front of my window I n oticed a m a n he a t in g time to the music of the b a nd with his foot I knew a t once th a t he must be a Europe a n a s A si a tics are not in the h a bit of doing this L a ter on when this m a n c a me into my d a rb a r I ch a rged him with being a F ering hi whi ch he denied However I did not press the m a tter being a fr a id th at if suspicions ha d been roused a g a inst him his life might not h a ve been s a fe The s a me circumst a nces ha d been told to me by S a rd a r M u h a mm a d H a ss a n Kh a n six weeks before Amir Ya kub Kh a n s a rriv a l at J e l alla b a d It m a y be noted th a t S a rd a r Muh a mm a d Ya kub Kh a n a n d he were both a t Hera t when Mr A V a m b e ry j ourneyed there a fter his wonderful a dventures a n d v icissit udes in Centr a l A si a Str a nge it must seem to h a ve a ssoci ated hourly for months throughout his d a ngerous tra vels in Khiv a a n d Bokha r a w ith his d a rwesh comp a nions to h a ve sh a red in a ll their me a ls a n d j oin ed in a ll their pra yers a n d y et to h a ve defi ed a ll detection ; a n d then to h a ve been discovered by one keen eyed observer for be a ting time with his foot to the music Of a n improvised Europe a n b a nd pl a ying on the gl a cis of the fortress of Her a t Amir Ya kub Kh a n went a wa y the next morning towa rds Pesh a wa r a n d a fter this it seemed cert a in th a t nothing would keep S a rd a r Muh amm a d H a ss a n Kh a n with us He swore on the holy book th a t he w a s going to rem a in true but this w a s only to g a in time In a friendly w ay he w as told th a t if he found his duties irksome a n d intoler a ble I would represent his c a se to the Gener a l a n d a s k him to let the S a rd a r -
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KHYBER
92
A ND JEL A L L A RA D
on
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v1
during the hours of da rkness Nothing could or would move the ka ka rs a n d there they rem a ined A s b a d luck would h a ve it a b a nd of M a ndez a i Shinwa ri ra iders c a me down th a t very night a n d cut up these unfortun a te men the tidings of the s a d event re a ching us a bout 9 A M on Christm a s morn A p a rty of c a v a lry w a s sent out to m a ke ing inquiries a n d the inform a tion brought b a ck w a s th a t the Ma ndez a i r aiders from the hill s ha d p a ssed the nig ht of the 2 3rd a t a vill a ge c a lled B a nd a K a ddi R ogh ani the residents of which ha d fed a n d sheltered the g a ng knowing the purpose for which they ha d le ft their homes at the b a se of the S a fed Koh moun t a ins This w a s the vill age to punish for there were n o troops a va il a ble to go a g a inst the M a n d ez a is in the hills who mustered I w as fi ghting men c a lled up a n d in my presence the reporting Officer told Genera l Bright th a t the Offending vill a ge w a s some seven to eight miles a wa y a n d ha d no defences I w a s then a sked my opini on a s to the force necess a ry to surround a n d t a ke the vill a ge a n d I s a id If the pl a ce is situ a ted a s ha s j ust been reported a couple of guns 2 00 infa ntry a n d some c a v a lry would be enough I ha d not been out myself so knew nothi ng a bout the vill a ge or its c a p a bilities It w a s deemed necess a ry to strike a t once for o ffence or defence With considera ble difficulty 100 Euro pe a ns a n d 100 N a tive infa ntry with t w o guns a n d under comm a nd Of Colo nel a troop of C a r a biniers M a ckenzie comm a nda nt of the 3rd Beng a l C a v a lry were collected a t B a rika b in a bout two d a ys We took S a rda r Kh a lo Kh a n with us a n d disclosed to him th a t we were ordered to go to B a nd a K a ddi Rogh a ni th a t night surround it a n d bring so m a ny of the .
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PU NITI VE
187 9- 82
93
E XPEDI T I ON
he a dm en a wa y pri soners bec a use they ha d fed a n d sheltered a b a nd of Shinwa ri ra iders w ho ha d cut up our doolie be a rers The Old gentlem a n w a s very a ngry s a id our force w a s fa r too we a k a n d th a t we were going on a fool s business We replied th a t orders ha d to be c a rried out At 1 A M with a troop of C a r a biniers two guns of M a g in n is s b a ttery 2 00 infa ntry a n d a troop of 1 7t h Beng a l C a v a lry w e commenced our m a rch from B a rik a b a n d j ust before sunrise our sm a ll force w a s dr a wn up on the rounded pl a te a u to the west of a n d comm a n ding the v a lley where the vill a ge w a s presumed to be A thick impenetr a ble fog hid every As the sun s h a mlet in the Rud — i Hiss a r a k V a lley ra ys gra du a lly di spelled the mist a n d portions of the v a lley in our neighbourhood bec a me visible the troop of N a tive c a v a lry w a s sent to get behind the vill a ge a n d prevent the residents from esc a ping to the hi lls Soon the whole v a lle y l a y exposed to our view a n d my he a rt m a de a gre a t j ump at seeing the tra p we B a nd a K a ddi — Rogh a ni consisted of ha d got into three vill a ges e a ch with high thick wa lls a n d two towers a n d a s fa r a s the eye could see towa rds the S a fed Koh the whole v a lley w a s closely p a cked with strong defensible forts B y the route we ha d come from B a rika b l ay three or four l a rge Open vill a ges with no towers or high w a lls but in c a se of a retre a t before the enemy the residents could h a ve m a de it very hot for us in such a broken country full of ra vines a n d wa ter ch a nnels S a rd a r Kh a lo Kh a n sent his speci a l a gent with a few of his men to tell the vill a gers th a t we ha d come with men a n d if ten of the he a dmen did not come in to us a t once their vill a ges would be levelled with the ground ,
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KH YBER
94
A ND JEL A L L A BA D
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They found the residents in their houses mostly in their beds a n d pointing to our a rra y on the hillside the guns brought into a ction levelled a t their towers a n d the c a v a lry in their re a r they delivered our mes s a ge a n d dem a nded a speedy a nswer With my fi el d gla ss I c a refully wa tched the proceedings First Of a ll there w a s intense excitement a mongst the community one or two swords were dra wn a few rifles h a ndled then they a ll s a t down ne a r the fi re for a conference a n d one m a n brought a hook a h which w a s p a ssed r ound a n d every one took a whiff in turn I closed my g l a sses with a sigh of intense relief ; for I then knew th a t the g a me w a s up The ten c a ptives soon a ppe a red a n d w e st a rted on the return j ourney to B a rik a b Gra du a lly the district bec a me more pe a ceful a n d the influence Of S a rd a r M a d d a t Kh a n a n d his friends in the v a lley beg a n to be exercised in the right direc tion The B a ra kz a i S a rd a r w a s a well me a ning m a n e ntirely in the h a nds of his more a ble a n d cleverer brother w ho knew a s well a s a ny m a n in the world It w a s S a rd a r h ow t o look a fter number one Kh a lo Kh a n s own folly th a t in the end ruined hi mself a n d a ll hi s brothers Orders n o w c a me from C a ubul for a brig a de to move into the L a ghm a n Va ll ey a n d see wh a t coul d be done with the residents of th a t turbulent di strict a n d our m a rch commenced e a rly in the beginning of Gener a l B right a n d some of his St a ff c a me on 1 8 80 a s spect a tors a n d I w a s directe d to Open up com m u nic a t ion s with the people of the country a n d see wh a t supplies an d for a ge could be obt a ined for our troops a n d tr a nsports We crossed from the right to the left b a nk of the C a ubul River by the D a rout a ford a n d a fter going for a bout h alf a mile recrossed ,
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KH YBER
96
A ND
JEL A LLA BAD
an
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v1
lso s a w the tomb of Muh a mm a d Sh a h Kh a n a t one time lord of B a di a b a d w ho ha d tre a ted our l a dies a n d other prisoners with gre a t ha rshness B a di a b a d ha d been destroyed by order of Amir Dost Muh a mm a d Kh a n ; a n d when the g re a t Ghi lz a i chief died a n d w a s buried in this zi a r a t so h a ted w a s his n a me a n d so powerful were the enemies th a t he ha d m a de th a t twice his body w a s exhumed out of the precincts of the most s a cred shrine in Afgh a nist a n a n d thrown into the open He w a s buried for the third time a n d a gu a rd pl a ced over the tomb night a n d d a y to pro te e t his rem a ins from further insul t On my repre s e n t a t io n s the Gener a l ha d sp a red F a iz Muh a mm a d Kh a n s villa ges whi ch lie ne a r B a dia b a d ( Muh a mm a d Sh a h Kh a n w a s fa ther to F a iz Muh a mm a d Kha n who ha d the interview with C ava g n ari n ea r Al i M a sj id in the Khyber on September 2 1 an d l a ter F a iz Muh a mm a d sent in a verb al mess a ge to me th a t he would never a ft er this r aise his h ands A s S a rd a r A s a f a g a inst the British Government Kh a n a n d I were le a ving the shrine the he a d keeper rushed up to us in g re a t a la rm an d s a id Here is a S a hib t a king a picture Of the zi a ra t a n d he ha s only t w o men with him This is Thursd a y wil l come a n d s a y their a n d hundreds Of T a lib s pr a yers here t his d ay ; they m a y mob the gentlem a n Ple ase t a ke a n d then you will come a n d h a ng m e him a w a y We found the intruder to be Mr M cNa ir of the Survey Dep a rtment quietly sketching with two troopers of the 1 7 th Beng a l C a valry behi nd hi m but w e persu a ded him to come a wa y with us Some d ays a fterwa rds I sent a few men with Mr M c N a ir to conduct him over the A dr a k B a dr a k P a ss an d h a ving e ffected this with s a fety he a
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E XPED I TION A
187 9- 82
97
SU CCESS
ppe a red before the Gener a l comm a nding the G a nd a m a k Brig a de then on tour ne a r Seh B a b a much to th a t offi cer s a stonishment who would h a r dl y cre di t th a t he ha d a ccomplished such a d a ngerous trip without a l a rge escort Mr M c Na ir some few ye a rs l a ter disguised himself a s a n a tive doctor a n d went with Huss a in Sh a h M ia K a ka Khel through Sw a t to Dir a n d the confi nes of Kafi ris t a n a n d c a me b a ck a fter m a ny h a irbre a dth esc a pes A r a sc a lly K a k a Khel enemy of H u s s a in s disclosed to the people who he re a lly w a s a n d it required a ll Shu B a b a s influence to shelter his life When I s aw him l a st a t Pesh a w a r h a ving esc a ped a ll d a ngers in Sw a t a n d Dir he w a s trying to induce the P a nj a b Government to puni sh R a h a t Sh a h M ia the K a ka Khel referred to ; but before he could succeed in his Obj ect I think he died from a severe a tt a ck of fever Our expedition into L a ghm a n w a s presumed to h a ve been a gre a t success insomuch th a t it ha d a ttr a cted a ll the chiefs a n d S a rd a rs to us a n d cer t a in ly they a n d the people bec a me very frien dl y tow a rds our Government When the troops c a me b a ck to J el all a b a d a n d were withdra wn from L a gh m a n most of the he a dm en followed us a n d we tried to rep a y them in a me a sure for their a ttention to us In M a y 1885 when I went down to L a ndi Kh an a to h a nd over the he a vy guns presented to Amir Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n by the Government I w a s brought f a ce to f a ce with S a rtip Muha mm a d Ha ss a n Kh a n the comm a nd a nt of the K ha sa d a rs a t D a kk a This m a n s home w a s in a vill a ge j ust a bove Tigri in the L a ghm a n V a lley a n d he w a s one of the few men w ho kept a loof from us when w e went up there in 1880 This he reve a led to me a
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KH YBER
98
A ND JEL A LL A BA D
on
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VI
in a bold o ffensive w a y ; then a fter a p a use he s a id The Amirs of Afgh a nist a n never could get their revenues from L a ghm a n without sen ding a l a rge force to over a we its residents how w a s it then th a t y ou m a n a ged to go a ll over th a t district a n d secure a ll th a t you required without any opposition ? I left the S a rtip to a nswer the question himself A severe a tt a ck of dysentery a n d bre a kdown of system compelled me to go before a me di c a l bo a rd which sent me b a ck to Pesh a wa r in the month of April 18 80 But before this h a ppened most of the not a bles in the J el a ll a b a d Va lley more especi a lly Al i Kh a n Dehg a n of Pesh B ol a k ha d Opened their minds to me on the subj ect of our policy in Afgh a ni st a n in gener a l a n d a t J el all a b a d in p a rticul a r The l a ngu a ge used b y one a n d a ll w as of this n a ture & S ahib when Ma j or C av a g n a ri fi rst c a me here w e j oined him a n d threw in our lot with the B ritish Govern ment thinki ng y ou were going to rem a in here for good B ut you cle a red out on the fi rst opportunity For six months we lived a n d left us to our f a te with rifles in our h a nds dre a ding every moment th a t our l a st d a y ha d come— not th a t Amir Ya kub Kh a n oppressed us but th a t our re a l enemies our cousins heirs to our l a nded propert y were b o u n ding on the Mul l a hs to a tt a ck a n d kill us bec a use we ha d been friends to the F e ring hi so th a t our cousins might get hold of our houses l a nds a n d possessions Y ou h a ve come a g a in a n d we h a ve once more j oined our fortunes to yours Tell us now wh a t your Govern ment intends to do in the future Are you going to fors a ke us once more a n d le a ve us in the h a nds of o u r enemies ? My reply w a s—a n d I could give no other—th a t I ,
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KHYBER
1 00
A ND
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Folkestone The d a y a fter my a rriv a l in London I w a s t a ken before the l a te Sir Rich a rd Qu a in who c a refully ex a mined me for ne a rly a n hour On my Offering a fee Sir Rich a rd a ccepted one guine a a n d refused to t a ke a penny more on the ground th a t I ha d been fi ghting the b a ttles of my country Next d ay he c a me to see me a s I w a s l a id up with a touch o f Pesh a w a r fever a n d on my wife Offering a fee he shook his he a d a n d p a ssed downst a irs I t is right th a t such a cts should be remembered a n d noted down Extreme h a rd work an d exposure in J el a ll a b a d a n d L a ghm a n brought on a n ill ness which kept me ten months in the h a nds of v a riou s medic a l a dvisers an d confi ned m e for eleven weeks to my bed in the home hospit a l at Fitzroy House Fitzroy S qu a re Time a fter time news c a me from the direction Of J el a ll ab a d th a t a fter m y dep a rture troubles ha d recommenced in th a t qu a rter Of Afgh a n ist a n proving once more th a t to de a l with Afgh a ns Offi cers must be employed who h a ve knowledge of their l a ngu a ges customs an d wa ys ,
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CHAPTER VII RE T U RN
T O TH E K H YBE R
—
1 882 1884
ON Febru a ry 16 , 1882 , I
b a ck a g ain in ch a rge of the Khyber P a ss a rra ngements But wh a t a ch a nge it w a s from the old d a ys when the Pa ss w a s British a n d n a tive troops when o ccupied by s m a ll loc a l convoys went up a n d down at st a ted periods under a regul a r gu a rd a n d no a rm ed Af ri di not in our service w a s permitted to be seen in the defile Kafil a s or c a ra v a ns worked regul arly between Pesh aw a r a n d C a ubul the m od u s op era nd i in enter ing an d going out of the Khyber P a ss limits being a s follows The c a ra va ns from the di rection of C a ubul were escorted by the Am ir s kha s a d a rs from D akk a to L a ndi Khan a every Mond a y a n d Thursd a y m orn ing in the week a n d were met there by a p a rty of our Khyber Rifles who brought them to L an di Kot a l by the evening , a n d they the re p a ssed two nights H H the Am ir s limit s ended a t Tor Kh am a bout ya rds from L a ndi Kh a n a on the ro a d to D akk a ; but a s there w a s no wa ter to be ha d at Tor Kh am an d there were ga llons a v ail able every twenty four hours at L a ndi Kh a n a the Am ir s levies ha d been allowed to exch a nge the c ar av a ns a t L a ndi Kh an a before they went b a ck to D akk a The c onvoys proceeding to C a ubul left the city of Pesh a w a r every Mond a y an d Thursd a y , a n d by sunset w as
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RETURN
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coll e cted a t J a mrud p aid their tolls a n d p a s s ed those nights there Every Tuesd a y a n d F rid a y the c a ra va n collected a t L a ndi Kot a l c ame dow n with its gu a rd to Al i Ma sj id a n d h a lted there until the c a ra v a n from J a mrud c a me up with its escort ; t he n the c a ra v a ns ch a nged h ands a n d the L a ndi Kot a l e s cort t a king ch a rge of the J a mrud lot took them up to L a ndi Kot a l kept them there duri n g t he n ights of Tuesd a y a n d Frid a y a n d on the m o rning s o f Wod ne s d ay a nd S a turd a y took them down to L a ndi Kh a n a a n d delivered them over to the s a fe cu s tody of the Amir s levies w ho m a rched them a wa y to D a kk a In a s imil a r w a y the C a ubul c a ra va n w a s brought down to J a mr ud on Tue s da ys a nd Fri d a y s a n d went on to Pesh a wa r City o n t he morn i n gs o f Wedn esd a y a nd S a turd a y These a rr a ngement s were the best th a t could h a ve been org a nised a n d the s a fest One thing however seemed to me to be highly Obj ection a ble a n d th a t w a s tha t a fter t he troops were withdra wn from the Khyber in 188 ] no Europe a ns were permitted to go beyond Ja mrud in the direction of the P a ss A few words a re nece ss a ry reg a rding the Khyber st a ff a nd some of the most notori o u s m alik s or chiefs of the tribes of the Khyber R a nge A n Ora kz ai gentlem a n n amed Ak b a r Kh a n sci o n of a good f amil y w ho ha d fo r merly been in the Pesh a w a r Police a n d in 18 7 9 ha d been sent up to a id Ma j or H a sting s w a s Assist a nt Politic a l in the Khyber S a rd a r M A sl a m Kh a n ( no w Lieut Col As l a m Kha n w as in comm a nd of the Khybe r Jo z a ilc his When he took ch a rge th e y were a n u n tidy unke m pt b a nd of excellent men very g o od m a teri a l for w a rfa re in a ny count ry but without a n y di s cipli ne or esp rit ,
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A BDUL
1882-84
LA
1 03
NU R
The tribesmen c a lled them Sur L a kkais or red t a ils from a piece of red t a g stuck in their turb a ns to di stinguish them from the rest of their brethren By dint of p a tience a n d contra ry to the a dvice of cert a in people who obj ected to seeing the Khyber levies either properly dressed or f a irly drilled w e persevered in the course we ha d a dopted know ing for cert a in from long experience th a t the Afridi recruit w a s j ust a s proud of a good well disciplined corps a s e ither Goorkha P a th a n or Sikh a ll th a t he obj ected to being interferenc e with his a ncestr a l trib a l custo m s We were rewa rded in the end when the Khyber Rifles beh a ved splendidl y in the Bl a ck Mount ain expe di tions of 18 88 189 1 an d when they fought a nd kin brother a g ainst a g a inst their own kith brother in th a t fa t a l month Of August 1897 killing a n d wounding 180 of the Af ridi l a shk a r until h aving no he a d to look to or to guide them tre a che ry a n d discord ensued a n d the L a ndi Kot a l ser a i w a s delivered over to the Mull a h g a thering Abdul l a Nur Kuki Khel w a s the Oldest m alik amongst the Afridi chiefs a n d a bout t hi s period he In 18 6 1 he w a s close upon eighty four ye a rs of ag e had p a id a thous a nd rupees to h a ve M a lik Ghol a m K a dir killed in hi s fort a bout two m iles e a st of Ali M a sj id a n d in thi s w ay not only did he secure the chieft a insh ip of the whole tribe but he m a rried a t the s a me tim e the mother a n d the widow of the By the fi rst he ha d his eldest son m urdered m a n Hyder ; a n d from the second were born to him three or four l a ds the senior being Amin Kh a n the next Z a m a n Kh a n whose n a mes will a ppe a r further on in one or two troublesome episodes Abdull a Nur de
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lw a ys been hostile to the B ritish Government He w a s the only Af ri di senior w ho w a s or tried to be rude to Sir L C av a g n ari when he ha d his interview with F a iz Muh a mm a d Kh a n a t L a l a Chen a on Sep tember 2 1 18 7 8 a n d he w a s the l a st m a lik to come in to us in September 187 9 a n d then only did so when he w a s distinctly a n d emph a tic a lly told by Am ir Y a kub Kha n a t C a ubul th a t he must expect nothing from him or from Afgh a nist a n in the future He wor shipped rupees a n d w a s in the full belief th a t the In di a n Government could be squeezed a t all times a n d on a ll occ a sions He w a s a lwa ys a ccomp a nied by his fa vourite son Amin Kh a n whom he ha d tr a ined a ccording to his own principles The most clever chief w a s M a lik Khw a s Kh a n Z a kh a Khel The most honest a n d most true w a s my friend Wa lli Muh a mm a d Kh a n a n d for ye a rs p art of my work w a s to prevent him from f a lling into the clutches Of Lt he f a te which a ctu a ll y Khw a s a n d ruining himself— h a ppened to him within fiv e weeks of my giving up ch a rge of the Khyber on July 1 1 1897 Just a t this period Pesh a w a r w a s swa rming w ith Af gh a n refugees w ho ha d c a st their lot with us when our troops entered Afgh a nist a n a n d who ha d been compelled to cle a r out of their country le a ving homes a n d a ncestr a l property when our forces retr a ced their steps tow a rds Indi a M a ny things c a me b a ck to my mind when I remembered J el a l l a b a d in the ye a rs 18 79 a n d 1880 a n d thought of wh a t the chiefs a n d s a rd a rs ha d then s a id to me On e morni ng a t J el a ll a b a d I h a ppened to be w a tching work in the commiss a ri a t y a rd in comp a ny wi th S a rd a r Kh alo Kh a n An energetic C a shmiri contra ctor by n a me H a bbo w a s working like a sl a ve seeing his gr a in duly weighed ha d
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1 06
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KH YBER
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should be bestowed on M a lik Abdull a Nur When t he whole g a ng a ppe a red before Mr Cordery the Commissioner they unfortun a tely for themselves produced in origin a l the letter written by the A ssist a nt Politic a l ; but on its being re a d o ut they decl a red th a t they ha d come to a s k a bout the Regi l a nds a n d knew nothing of the plot a g ainst S a rd a r Asl a m Kh a n Just before Febru a ry 2 2 188 2 inform a tion w a s received a t J a m rud th a t the Ann a i Z a kh a Khe l s intended r a iding into the Khyber P a ss bec a use their M a lik Khwa s Kh a n would not give them their prope r sh a re of the Khyber a llow a nces We received timely wa rning Of wh a t w a s going to h a ppen a n d the r a iders c a ught in a tr a p lost fi v e killed a n d a bout nine wounded Four other sections of the Z a kha s who could not be m a n a ged by their chiefs ha d their a llowa nces t a ken a wa y from their m a liks a n d p a id direct to them by me In this m a nner a very serious trouble w a s removed bec a use these men respected neither m a lik nor chief nor a n y hum a n being outside their own communit y If a ny indi vidu a l thought th a t he w a s wrongfully deprived of hi s rights by m a lik or chief he a t once committed some outr a ge on the residents of the Pesh a wa r District a n d in this w a y drew the a ttentio n of the a uthorities to his griev a nce a n d expected us to right him However they took the prec a ution of selecting a very we a k set of elders to receive their a llow a nce s from me on the grounds th a t the we a k men would be un a ble to deprive the others Of their l a wful rights in the proper sh a re of the Khyber a llow a nces The M alik di n Khel freebooter Ka m a ] w a s a nother gentlem a n who continu a lly kept Pesh a w a r .
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OU TRA GEs BY
1882-84
KA MAL
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FREEBOOTER
107
Koh a t on the qni r ive H a ving once upon a tim e served in one Of our n a tive regiments loc a ted in Pesh a wa r he w as well a cqu a inted with a ll the rul es by whi ch sentries ch allenged strangers a ppro a chi n g their posts a t night a n d the replies th a t should be given He w a s further well a w a re of the con di tion of the v arious ro a ds an d regim ent a l lines in C a nton One night without any wa rni ng he stole m ents out an d cut up the c av a lry picquet of the 19th Beng a l L a ncers st a tioned on the Cir cul a r Ro a d j ust by the highwa y th a t le a ds from Pesh a wa r C a ntonments to J amrud All were killed or wounded except on e m a n who w a s s a ying his pr a yers on the Circ u l a r Ro a d some twenty ya rds a w a y from the picquet building Some ni ghts l a ter he m a de a swoop on a c a va lry p icquet a t Koh a t , where he w a s not so successful One of his g a ng w a s ki lled a n d the rest were ch a sed to the frontier by the c a v a lry scouts a n d esc a ped with For these t w o outra ges the M a lik di n a n d di fficulty K amb a r Khel Afridis were c a lled upon to p a y a fin e a n d to turn K a m a l out of their lim its of Rs A fter consider a ble pressure the he a dmen a n d trib al j irg a went to Tira h burnt his house a n d did so When they c a me b a ck K a m a l returned to his own a n d , by the a id of the Mull a hs rebuilt hi s house Twice ag a in w a s hi s pl a ce destroyed a n d twic e a g a in rebuilt But he ha d some m ore a dventures in h a nd a n d enj oyed a j oke in his own fa shion The Co mm issioner w a s proceeding to Koh a t on duty a n d hi s horses under escort of a police trooper were sent Ofl to Ma t a nni to rem a in there one ni ght a n d then to j ourney through the P a ss to Koh a t on the following morning This news w a s conveyed to K a m al by some friend a n d he an d severa l of his a nd
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comp anions a rmed to the teeth s a t down a short w ay from the s ide of the ro a d le a di ng fro m Pesh aw a r to M at a nni a t a spot from which no hu m a n h a bit a tion w a s Visible for miles a n d a wa ited events Soon the escort , a n d horses with the groom s an d m ul es c a rrying lo a ds a ppe a red ; a n d noticing a fi re a n d the frien dl y pipe going round the men were attra cted to the spot without kn owing the qu a lity of the p a rty they were a bout to j oin Ka m a l removed every a nim a l a n d took them a w a y to Tir a h The Malikdin a n d K a mb a r Khel Af ri di s were a g a in fi ned for not c ontroll in g K a m a l but th a t in dividu al did not mind thi s in the le a st a s he ha d numerous qu arters where he coul d be sheltered when his t rib esm en f u m e d a g a inst him In this inst a nce he received Rs 900 from Muh amm a d S a rfa r a z Kh an Arb a b of the M ohm a n d s w ho w a s most a nxi ous to recover the Commissioner s horses a n d re a dily p aid this sum to g et them b a ck One morning a bout 2 A M I w a s c a lled up by the Deputy Commissioner of Pesh a w a r w ho ha d d ri ven over to my house to tell me th a t a report ha d j ust been brought to him th a t Ka m a l ha d a tt a cked a n d c u t up the whole Of the picquet st a tions on the ro a d le a ding to Fort B a ra a n d he a sked me to come out A w a y w e went but a n d investig a te the m a tter le a rnt th a t a ffa irs were not so b a d a s ha d been reported ; only a sentry of the S a ppers a n d Miners A s we ha d been wounded a n d his rifle c a rried o ff moved in the direction of the S a pper a n d Miner l ines we met a n Afgh an Kuchi driving a bout fi fty to sixty c a mels through the centre Of the Pesh awa r C antonments in the de a d Of night with no one to interfere w ith him ,
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RET URN
1 10
To THE
KH YBER
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d iffi cult m atter , to begin with Then you will try him w ith all the intric a cies of your l aw , a n d if he i s sentenced to de a th , a n d the j udgment upheld , K a m a l will be h a nged My w ay a n d yours both me a n de a th t o the m a n , but mine is the sim er, .
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s ur er in the end Wh y not rewa rd me for working in my own fa shion A fter sever al interviews he went a wa y to h a tch his own scheme of revenge for he w a s very a nxious to kill Ka m a l on his own a ccount a n d at length he s ucceeded in his obj ect a fter so m e ye a rs of p a tient w a iting Ka m a l a n d his cousin lived in the B aira mi s ection of the M a likdin Khel country in Tir a h the forts of the two fa mi l ies being ne a r to one a nother K a m al fi n ding th a t he w a s supported by the priest hood bec a me a little c a reless in looking a fter his own s a fety his prec a utions lessened a n d he w a s in the h a bit of t a king walks behind the vill a ge mosque feeling a ssured in his own mind th at no spot w a s s o s a fe a s one in close proxi mi ty to the holy pl a ce But he ha d a vigil a nt enemy w ho wa tched him a n d One d ay in Febru a ry hi s movements very closely 1888 t hi s cousin conce a lin g hi s rifle entered the m osque rem a ined there for hours without letting people know wh a t Obj ect he ha d in View With a n iron spike he m a de a good sized hole in the b a ck mud wa ll of the building a nd kept his eye on the gr ound in front of it K a m a l a ccording to his h a bit c a me out for a stroll a n d the cousin putting his rifle through the hole took c areful a im a n d shot his kinsm a n de a d He then hurried dow n to Pesh a w a r to cl aim the rewa rd Of course no rewa rd w a s given for the murder an d the cousin s own end c am e soon Ak b a r brother of K a m a l a an d
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ROBBERIE S EA SY AT PE SHA W A R
1882- 84
111
young m a n known a mongst the Af ridis a s a cha u l a k s a ra i—ie a n extre m ely a ctive a n d s m a rt fellow m a n a ged to ki ll him a n d in this w ay revenged K a m a l s de a th No more w a s he a rd of Ak b a r a fter t hi s ; he m a y h a ve been kill ed in a feud or he m a y h a ve t a ken to a useful life a n d gi ven up hi s thi evish r a i di ng h a bits but so fa r a s we were concerned he dis a ppe a red entirely NO c a n tonment or st a tion th a t I h ave seen in In di a is so open to a tt a ck from thieves an d robbers a s Pesh a w a r an d none so di fficult to protect by me a ns of gu a rds or sentinels The st a tion is in the form of a l a rge ell ipse the western end touching the ro a d th a t comes from the B a r a Va lley by Fort B a ra a n d j oins the Ma ll by the c a v a lry line s the e a stern end on a dj oining the Pesh a w a r J a il whilst further e a st the Gra nd Trunk Ro a d lies the fort of Pesh a w a r A ro a d c al led the Circul a r a lmost touching the city Ro a d goes round the st a tion From the B a r a Ro a d there is a succession of sm a ll h a mlets a n d l a rge pe a ch g a rdens to the south of the C a ntonm ents quite close to this Circul a r Ro a d is the S a dd a r B a z a r right up to the city Three or four vil lainous vill a ges full of thieves fa ce the st a tion in the di rection of the Khyber Al l Afri di s coming from the direction of the B a ra Va lley or the Khyber Hills or M ohm a n d s j ourneying by the M ichn i Ro a d must enter a n d p a ss through the he a rt of the C a ntonments But the worst evil of all is the loc a tion of the C ivil Courts in the very centre of the st a tion close t o the cricket Here thous a nds of the best a n d worst g round ch a r a cters of the district a ssembled for hours every d ay a n d w a tched the n a kedness of the l a nd m a king their a rr a ngements by d a y for visiting the houses at .
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112
TH E
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night It is impossible to a lter these circu m st a nces now but the ev ils a re observa ble even to the c a su a l Visitor to Pesh a w a r to d ay a n d the number of sentries th a t h a ve to be pla ced in C a ntonments a t night time m a ke night duty he a vy on the g a rrison a n d on this a ccount Pesh a w a r is not beloved by the soldiery Owing to the recommend a tion of my predecessor between 1 880 a n d 188 1 a sum of rupees ha d been s a nctioned for the rep a ir of the Old T a rt a rra Ro a d but no one ha d m a de a ny a ttempt to c a rry out these rep a irs To those w ho a re not a cqu a int ed wi th this highw a y I m a y expl a in th a t formerly the Khyber P a ss th a nks to the qu arrels a n d ex a ctions of the Afridis w a s a lw a ys closed to c a r a va ns tr a de an d tr a vellers except when some strong m an forced them to keep it Open for the time being a n d when he p a ssed a wa y or the whim left him the Pa ss w a s closed a g a in On this a ccount the rulers of C a ubul preferred to negoti a te for t he opening out of the T a rt arra route which w a s a much more di ffi cult ro a d but fa r e a sier to a rr a nge with the tribesmen there th a n with those of the historic a l P a ss Le av ing Fort D a kk a this route goes through Loe D a kk a L rger or Gre a ter D a kk a ) K a m ( Lesser) D a kk a a n d a ( a scending the Shilm a n Gh a kha ( P a ss or Fork) p a sses through the country of Loe ( Gre a ter) Shilm a n a scends a n d descends the D a br a i Hill p a sses through the Mull a gori country a n d descends into the pl a ins of the Pesh a wa r Va lley close to the police st a tion of M a thr a the fi rst h a lting st a ge in the Pesh a w a r Va lley The Shilm a n is were a bout 700 a rmed men a ll M ohm a n d s under the Kh a n of L a lpur a w ho w a s a ble to keep them in thorou gh order by me a ns of the .
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RET URN
1 14
TO TH E
KHYBER
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Kh a n with the nine Shinw a ri he a dmen met me a n d the fi rst s a id Welcome S ahi b we thought you ha d forgotten us for ever A d a y w as spent here to ex amine a few loc al ities It w a s p a inful to see all the qu a rters for the Genera l his st a ff a n d the lines for the British an d n a tive regiments ruined a n d roofless our ow n h a ndiwork the result Of our ow n policy The look out post a t P iz g a h a n d others were all in ruins their timbers a n d r a fters h a ving been given over to the Shinw a ris The m a sonry ducts a n d drinking pl a ces all wa nted rep a irs The c a ra v a n inclosure a n Open piece of ground w as ankl e deep in fil th a n d m a nure The two comp a ny b arr a cks a t L a ndi Kot a l every building down the Khyber Pa ss a n d the ro a d a ll required m ending nothing h a ving been spent on rep a irs for upwa rds of a ye a r Af ter this I went down the P a ss to Pesh a wa r a rriving there on M ay 2 1 1882 The four troublesome sections of the Z a kh a Khel s ha d been settled w ith but t hi s summer proved To protect the Pesh awa r vill a gers a n d a trying one their c a ttle whi ch wo ul d insist on str a ying into independent limits a gu a rd of one comp a ny of the Khyber Rifles w a s pl a ced d a y an d night on the Bes a i Hill to keep w a tch in the Kaj ourie pl a in This comp a ny w a s ch a nged monthly its food a n d w a ter being sent out from J a mrud a n d a big d rum a n d rockets &c supplied to it to give a l a rm in c a se of Twice a week our men a n y a tt a ck by r aiders p a trolled the Kajourie Va lley a nd in thi s w a y by t a king these prec a utions we a voided giving the S a rd a r Afz a b Kh a n Afridi robbers a single ch a nce brother to S a rd a r A sl am Kh a n being a p pointed British Agent a t the Court of Amir Abdur ,
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—
MURDER OF C AP TAIN F ULFORD
1882 84
115
R a hm a n Kh a n left for C a ubul a long with his suite a n d we s a w him s a fely through the Khyber P a ss a n d in the pl a ins of J e l a llab a d en rou te for his new a n d troublesome post A sh a rp a tt a ck of illness in the month of Sep tember 1882 forced me to proceed to the hills ne a r Murree on ten d a ys le a ve This event would not be mentioned except for a curious incident th a t Occurred on the j ourney when the tr a in stopped a t N a ushehra I h a ppened to notice on the pl a tform a m a n dressed in the g a rb of a fa kir w ho recognised me without m y thinking or dre a mi ng of his identity This m a n w a s S a rd a r Muh a mm a d H a ss a n Kh a n Governor of J e l a ll a ba d who ha d fled from us in December 18 7 9 Dressed in the g a rments of a begg a r he ha d got so far when seeing me a t N a ushehra he thought th a t he w a s recognised a n d so turned Off to Hoti Ma rd a n j ourneyed through H asht n a g a r into the Mohm a nd country a n d then m a de his w a y to Kuner with the obj ect of ra ising the country a g a inst Amir Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n In the spring of 1883 the Shin wa ris of the J e l a ll a b a d District revolted a g a inst Amir A bdur R a hm an Kh a n a n d on this S a rd a r Muh a mm a d H a ss a n Kh a n slipped one night from Kuner into the Shinwa ri hills a n d helped the insurgents to d a m a ge the c a use of their l a wful ruler I sh a ll refer to him a g a in when rel a ting the vicissitudes of his e x t ra o rd i n a ry c a reer A s a d c a se Of Gh a zi outr a ge occurred in the Pesh a w a r M a ll in which the victim w a s a n old friend of mine C a pt a in Fulford w ho ha d been a ppointed A ssist a nt Qu a rterm a ster Gener a l to the Pesh a w a r Brig a de a rrived a n d took up his residence in a house a dj oining the Roy a l Artillery mess a n d a lmost ,
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11 6
KH YBER
TO TH E
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touching the nine y a rd shrine fa cing the Mission House Every T hursd a y evening a cloth is pl a ced which in the a long the whole length of this tomb e a rlier d a ys of our rule in the Pesh a w a r Va lley used to incre a se in length every ye a r until a clever F e rin ghi stopped it s further growth by buil ding a mud w a ll round it Flowers a re pl a ced a n d sc a ttered a ll over the cloth a n d a few e a rthen l a mps or chira g hs lighted On e or more sweetme a t sellers come a n d sit on the ground a n d displ a y their s a le a ble a rticles re a dy to do a good business A crowd of children t a ke their st a nd on either side of the tomb Then come the devotees not Mussulm a n but Hindu women w ho spend a few pice in the purch a se of sweets which are di stributed amongst the children a pice or t w o given to the shrine a n d in a n hour or so the crowd di sperses Few fa n a tics a s a rule visit the pl a ce but on this fa t a l Thursd a y evening an d a few d a ys a fter F u lfo rd s a rriv a l one did so seeing Fulford p a ssing by the shrine followed him Turning b a ck homewa rds F ul ford ha d re a ched the empty sp a ce behind the Roya l Ar tillery b a z a a r when the f a n a tic crept up quietly behind a n d shot him in the b a ck with a pistol which he ha d kept conce a led in his g a rments C a pt a in Fulford lingered for a few d a ys a n d then succumbed to his inj uries My own troubles in the Kh yber were plen t i ful enough in those e a rly d a ys From the month of October 187 8 to the spring of 188 1 the troops st a tioned a t J a mrud ha d d a ily a ppropri a ted twelve hours of the entire Kuki Khel w a ter supply out of the twenty four After four ye a rs del a y the P a nj a b Government ha d a w a rded Rs compens a tion to the tribesmen for the losses incurred by them on ’
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118
To THE
KHYBER
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an d a
sked him to t a ke up a ll the Kuki Khel s with their ploughs a n d y okes of oxen to plough this s ha d d a l plot Nurull a c a me a n d a sked me wh a t he w a s to do a n d w a s directed to rem a in quietly a t home but to communic a te to Abdull a Nur the orders he ha d received from me The M a lik di n a n d K a mb a i Khel Afridis are descended from one stock a n d between them c an turn out excellent fi ghting men a n d in this qu a rrel they ha d combined a g a inst the Kuki Khel The M a likdin chiefs lived a t Chor a some ten miles due south of Ali M a sj id a n d a t this j uncture the M a likdin Khel comp a ny Of the Khyber Rifles h a ppened to be st ationed in F ort Al i Ma sjid Both the n a tive Officers were ne a r rel a tions Of the chiefs Both went round with Kor a ns in their h a nds urging their men not to v a c a te the fort wh a tever orders c a me from J a mrud However when the hour of tri a l c a me the two h a vild a rs or serge a nts brought the comp a ny down to J a mrud le a ving the Sub a d a r and J em a d a r to their own devices B oth these h a vi ld a rs were promoted In this w a y a very trouble some question w a s di spose d Of for the time being a n d when a ll the Afridi j irg a s a ppe a red a t Pesh a w a r in November 188 2 it w a s settled for good by the a id There is Of the M a liks of the Z a kh a Khel Afri di s a n Old Persi a n s a ying .
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T he
Ja c k a l t ha t
C an
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t he w ld s
t b y t he h
ou n d s
e c a u gh
M a z in d ara n o f M a z in d a ra n
of
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Cert a inly the Z a kh a chiefs c a ught Abdull a Nur fi rmly in their clutches this time a n d for sixteen ye a rs the s ha d d a l l a nd dispute ha s not been opened up a g a in In the spring of 1883 on the recommend a tion of ,
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1882-84
V MENTS
I M PRO E
I N THE
KH YBER
11 9
the C ommissioner my s a l a ry w a s reduced This w a s done in the f a ce Of a promise m a de to me in July 18 7 9 before I took up the Khyber a ppointment Egerton s Govern a n d Of a letter sent by Sir R ment in October 187 9 fi xing my p ay This w a s my rew a rd for serving the Government of the P a nj ab for thirteen ye a rs during a fa irly troublesome period Improvements were being m a de in the Khyber gr a du a lly but surely A sm all conserv a ncy est a b lis hm e n t w a s s a nctioned for L a n di Kot a l a n d the c a r a v a n inclosure cle a nsed of the fi lth which ha d been a llowed to a ccumul a te there for a ges The ro a d w a s being rep a ired a n d put in order under gre a t opposition a t fi rst but gra du a lly by p a tient w a iting we ha d our own w a y One or two of the m a liks especi a lly Khw a s Kh a n Z a kh a Khel were Opponents to the bitter end a n d did their utmost to prevent the Khyber ro a d being improved or a n y work t a ken in h a nd ; but the tribesmen h a ppily would not a ccept th a t view The following procedure w a s therefore a dopted From J a mrud to Ali M a sj id the ro a d w a s worked by men supplied by the Kuki Khe l s Ali M a sjid to ne a r Gu rg urra belonged to the M a likdin Khel Gu rg urra to Ma lik Khw a s Kh a n s house to his section Of the Z a kha s Fro m Khw a s Kh a n s fort to the Shinw a ri limits w a s the sh a re of Ma lik Wa lli Muh a mm a d Kh a n s p a rty a mongst the Z a kh a Khel s The l a st bit to L a ndi Kh a n a an d Tor Kh a m w a s a llotted to the Shinw a ris Some m a n a ble to m an a ge his p a rticul a r tribe w a s selected a n d a sked to bring men to work on the ro a d a t four a nn a s a d a y ; a n d a s this me a nt money put into the h a nds of the tribe smen direct they were quite willi ng to set a side t he wishes of their chiefs where their priv a te interests .
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RETU RN
1 20
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were concerned The s a me d ifli c u lt y ha d to be encountered when rep a iring the milit a ry posts between Fort J a mr ud a n d L a n di Kh a n a but once a move w a s m a de the friction ye a r by ye a r decre a sed in in tensit y M a lik Abdul l a Nur ha d fe a thered his nest pretty well in spite Of h a ving been in const a nt Opposition to the British Govern ment a ll his li fe He ha d received something like Rs in v a lue for injury to crops a n d d a m a ge to wa ter mill s a t Al i M a sj id dur ing its occup a tion by our troops He w a s gr a nted a speci a l pension Of Rs 1 5 0 a month for lif e on a ccount of some cl a ims to l a nds a t R a gi L a ll a m He ha d robbed hi s tribesmen of their sh a re of the Khyber a llow a nces during 1880 188 1 188 2 a n d in one w a y or a nother he ha d a ccum ul a ted between or rupees whi ch he ha d c a rried off secretly to hi s fo rt a t the w estern l imit of the B a r a V a ll e y T hi s ho a rd w a s of gre a t use to his son in troubling me for the sp a ce of eight ye a rs The incident will be rel a ted in its proper pl a ce A bdull a Nur in the spring of 1 88 3 ha d secured a ll his own a n d the trib a l a ll ow a n c e s a n d w a nted to fly secretl y to hi s summer home in the B a r a V a ll ey where w ith the support of the Tira h or B aj g al Kuk i Kh el s he co ul d defy hi s brethren who lived in the t i ll a ges between J a mrud But these l a st were quite equ al to the a n d Ali M a sj id oc c a sion a n d surroun di n g hi s fort they ha d it out with him for severa l hour s in rifle pr a ctice a n d m a de hi m p a y up a f a ir proportion of their sh a re of a llow a n c e s but not the full portion before they permi tted him to t a ke his dep a rture The S hi nw a ris Of the J el a ll a b a d District c l a imed cert a in posts on the ro a d between Tor Kh a m an d .
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RET URN
12 2
To THE
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sisters a n d widows of the tribesmen killed in the s pring of 1 88 3 In September 188 3 C a pt a in Nixon Of the Pesh a w a r police S a rd a r A sl a m Kh a n a n d I undertook a trip from J a mrud Fort to the top Of L a kk a Sa r the highest pe a k of the T art a rra R a nge We st a rted from J a mrud a s our route went by Gud a r through the L a shora V a lley up the S a pr a i Hill an d so far we went by the ro a d t a ken b y Genera l M ac phers on s turning column on the evening a n d nigh t of November 2 0 18 7 8 After this we ha d to wheel a bit to the right a n d go up a very steep a scent which our tired a nim a ls could not m a n a ge The j ourney w a s both long a n d trying the ro a d very b a d a n d the tr a nsport extremely indi fferent so w e m a de for K a mbel a the summer qu a rters of the Mull a gori tribe a n d h a lted here for the night The ridge to the e a st in the di rection of Pesh a w a r a n d the hills to the west would h a ve m a de excellent summer qu a rter s for troops It w a s quite cool a t K a mbel a a n d the M ull a g oris ha d sc a ttered for their winter settlements but he a ring of our a rriv a l m a ny Of their he a dmen hurried up to render a ny a id they could give The j ourney to L a kk a S a r being impossible n o w w e turned to Lwa ra Mi a n a the next morning h a lted for the d ay a n d w ent to Pesh a w a r the follo w ing morning The ye a r 1884 promised b a d ly a s I thought a t the beginning but in the end m a tters improved a n d I look upon th a t ye a r a s the one when our trips to the Kh yber Hills re ally took a t a ngible form a n d gr a du a lly in course of time produced th a t good fellowship with the tribes which m a de us he a rtily welcomed a t every pla ce we went to Abdull a Nur a n d his son owing to some c a use or other di d not ,
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1882 - 84
NU
R U LLA
ABD ULL A
A ND
NU R
M URDERED
12 3
come down to his w inter qu a rters a t Ja m till the month of J a nu a ry 1884 He went a t once to see S a rd a r Asl a m Kh a n whose qu a rters were then in the b a rra cks of the Khyber Rifles a n d the two ha d a very cordi a l meeting The next d ay fa ther a n d son went into Pesh a wa r a n d ha d a n interview with the N a tive Assist a nt Politic a l O ffi cer Akb a r Kh a n living a suburb of the city of Pesh a w a r a t Bh a n a M a ri Wh a t a ctu a lly tr a nspired a t this meeting w a s never cle a rly reve a led but Ab d ul l a Nur a n d his son turned b a ck to Jam a n d the fo llowing morning Am in Kh a n went to old Ma lik Nuru ll a s house a ccomp a ni ed by a few of the b a d lot th a t a lwa ys were with him a n d murdered Nurull a a n d two Of his sons without a ny wa rning or a pp a rent c a use At the funer a l of thes e men Abdull a Nur decl a red th a t he w a s guiltless of the deed but everyone knew th a t his son a n d hi s own ret a iners would never h a ve committed so d a rk Within a n d tre a cherous a n ac t without his orders forty eight hours of the murder of Nurull a he himself w a s shot in his own guest ch a mber se a ted in the midst of his rel a tions a n d ret a iners a n d died in s t a n t a n e o u s ly The murderer fire d upon repe a te dl y a s he ra n ha d a wonderful esc a pe a n d took shelter in the house of Akb a r a le a di ng m a n of Ja m living a t the western limit of the vill a ge I w a s c a lled upon to m a ke a long inquiry into this m a tter whi c h w a s futile in the end a s the events occurred a cross the border a n d necessit a ted no interference on our p a rt But the result went fa r to show th a t the N a tive A ssist a nt Politic a l w a s a t the bottom o f the business In the month of July 1 884 S a rd a r A sl a m Kh a n a n d lived in l a rge a n d I went up to L a ndi Kot a l .
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TO TH E
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tents t a ken up from J a mrud The mornings even ings a n d nights were cool but the gre a t force of the sun s r a ys m a de the tents very w a rm between mid d ay a n d 3 P M ; still it w a s a gre a t improvement on the Pesh a w a r V a lley During the mornings w e t ook our w a lk discussed m a tters with a l l the he a d men a n d visitors till bre a kfa st when the tribesmen went a w a y for their morning me a l From 10 A M to 5 P M w a s reserved for work ; in the evenings the people a ssembled once more an d we a g a in ha d a w a lk a n d a t a lk Often whilst we were out the time when the hillmen would c a me round for pr a yers spre a d their cloths turn their fa ces tow a rds the supposed correct qu a rter an d proceed w ith their devotions whilst I w a ited se a ted on a rock ne a r a t h a nd We then w a lked b a ck to c a mp a n d sep a r a ted for the night In this w a y two weeks were spent a t L a ndi Kot a l when we moved to Kurre Na o a sm a ll v a lley in the T a rt arra R ange a bout feet in height The we a ther here w a s glorious the only o bj ectio n to the pl a ce being th a t the v a lley w a s ra ther n a rrow being open tow a rds the west a n d the To the e a st fi erce wind a t times very a nno ying rose the spur of the T art arra R a nge which ends in feet a bove L a kk a S ar a huge b a rrier towering us Its e a stern a n d southern fa ces form huge pre feet ; but c ipic es with sheer drops in pl a ces of o n the western qu a rter where we were the a scent to L a kk a Sa r though steep ha d gentle slopes down to the ra vine where our c a mp w a s In this a mphi the a tre were a bout two hundred deep snow wells a n d the system of filling them in w a s a s follows When t he snow fell commencing gener a ll y in November Shinwa ris c a me a n d continuing till Febru a ry the ,
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To TH E
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tents t a ken up from J a mrud The mornings even ings a n d nights were cool but the gre a t force of the sun s r a ys m a de the tents very w a rm between mid d ay and 3 R M still it w a s a gre a t improvement on the Pesh a w a r Va lley During the mornings we t ook our w a lk di scussed m a tters with a ll the he a d men a n d visitors till bre a kfa st when the tribesmen went a wa y for their morning me a l From 10 A M to 5 R M w a s reserved for work ; in the evenings the people a ssembled once more a n d we a g a in ha d a w a lk a n d a t a lk Often whilst we were out the time c a me round for pr a yers when the hillmen would spre a d their cloths turn their fa ces tow a rds the supposed correct qu a rter a n d proceed with their devotions whilst I wa ited se a ted on a rock ne a r a t h a nd We then w a lked b a ck to c a mp a n d sep a ra ted for the night In this w a y two weeks were S pent a t L a ndi Kot a l when w e moved to Kurre Na o a sm a ll v a lley in the T a rt arra R a nge a bout feet in height The we a ther here w a s glorious the o nl y o bj ectio n to the pl a ce being th a t the v a lley w a s r a ther n a rrow being open towa rds the west a n d the To the e a st fi erce wind a t times very a nno ying rose the spur of the T a rt arra R a nge which ends in L a kka S ar a huge b a rrier towering feet a bove us Its e a stern a n d southern fa ces form huge pre feet ; but c ip ice s with sheer drops in pl a ces of o n the western qu a rter where w e were the a scent to L a kk a Sar though steep ha d gentle S lopes down to In this a mphi t he r a vine where our c a mp w a s the a tre were a bout two hundred deep snow wells a n d the system of filling them in w a s a s follows When t he snow fell commencing gener a lly in November the Shinwa ris c a me a n d continuing till Febru a ry ,
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A
1882 -84
S C E NT
L A KKA
OF
12 5
SA R
up , collected it a n d be a t it into the wells If the drain age w as good a n d the se a son a prosperous one this snow would keep well into the m onth of October following It w a s conveyed on m ules into the city of Pesh aw ar commencing with the m onth of Febru a ry , when the price w a s two rupees a lo a d an d l a sting through the hot se a son into October , when a m ule lo a d would fetch sometimes eight rupees There is a gre a t dem a nd for s ha r b a t fa la d a a n d ices a mongst the Mussulm a n residents of Pesh a wa r One morning S a rd a r A sl a m Kha n an d I st a rted at By fa ir good luck the 4 A H to a scend L a kka Sa r Pesh a wa r Vall ey w a s free from a dust storm a s w e re a ched the crest of the pe a k a sm all pl a ce not more th an ten or twelve feet in di a meter A ridge ran westwards not quite so high a s the spot we were on In the centre w a s a sm all inclosure three to four feet in di a meter s a id to be a very holy shrine a n d he or she w ho wished hi s or her desires to be fulfilled ha d to cut a sm all stick from the br a nch of the ne arest tree point it at one end limi t the length to four or five inches an d then peg it down close to the shrine I conform ed to the rule fourteen ye a rs ag o a n d more but somehow my wi shes h a ve not yet been fulfi lled The p a noram a from here w a s g ra nd to a degree Just below us nestled Fort J a mrud Pesh a wa r with its church and double storeyed b a rr a cks a n d its m a ss of trees occupied the fore g round To the left l ay the C a ubul River an d further north could be seen the Swa t stre am with the pl a ins of Yusufz a i the Mor a a nd Ill am R a nges with the Indus in full flood running due south at the e a stern extremity of the Pesh a w a r I went up a g a in to helio with cert a in V alley st ations from L a kk a S a r a few d a ys l a ter but the .
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TO THE
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west wind w a s blowing a n d a storm r a ged over the Pesh a w a r Va lley le a v ing nothing visible I re m a ined the whole night there w a nting to try if a m ess a ge could not be delivered by l a mp ; but the dust storm m a de it hopeless a n d it continued thus for a whole week H a ving spent two weeks here we broke up c a mp a n d moved to Tor S a pp a r due north of L a n di Kot a l its highest a ltitude being feet This w a s the best pl a ce we ha d yet di scovered a n d l a ter on it w a s the pl a te a u where we spent m a ny h a ppy months in cert a in se a sons during the ye a rs w e went up to the Khyber Hills A s the Afgh a n Bound a ry Commission w a s a bo ut to move down to Quett a a n d a s S a rd a r A sl a m Kh a n ha d been selected a s one of its members we ha d to return to Pesh a w a r a n d in this w a y our fi rst seven weeks trip to the Khyber Hills c a me to an end Before concluding this ch a pter I m a y note th a t it w a s understood by the tribesmen th a t wherever my c a mp w a s in their hills the gre a test enemies might resort to it with perfect s a fety NO priva te public or trib a l feuds were to be c a rried out on a ny condition Hence for six or seven weeks my c a mp w a s full of men h a ving de a dl y blood feuds with one e a ch m a n h a ving his a rmed to the teeth a n other lo a ded rifle yet no outra ge w a s ever committed ; a n d I m a y s a y th a t this rule w a s implicitly c a rried out by me for more th a n fi fteen ye a rs During a ll th a t time there never w a s a n a ttempt m a de to ste a l a f a rthing s worth of property from our tents or c a mp except on one occ a sion when a few trifling items belonging to one of our Khyber c a v a lry sowa rs w ere c arried o ff fro m the lines a t L a ndi Kot a l ,
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CHAP TER VIII TH E D U KE A ND D U C H E S S
THE] ?
i l l l l t fl
r
C ONNA U GH T ’ S A ND ICLSI ZT?
OF
1884—1 885
in September 1884 it w a s notifi ed th a t their Roy a l Highn esses the Duke a n d Duchess of Con n a ught wo ul d p ay a vi sit to Pesh a wa r an d it w a s thought th a t possibly they might extend their tour to the Khyber P a ss a s fa r a s Al i Ma sjid Thi s w a s the fi rst occ a sion of Pesh a w a r being honoured with a roy a l Visit for when H E H the Prince of Wa les w a s in In di a his j ourney to the North West Frontier w a s limited to a trip to J a mmu a n d a fterw a rds to the Chen a b River to Open the g re a t Al ex a ndra ra ilwa y bridge Pesh a wa r ha d not a n opportunity of showin g its welcome to the Prince in 18 7 5 —76 an d therefore the present vi sit of the Duke a n d Duchess of Con n a ught w a s doubly welcome A bountiful progra mme w a s a rr a nged which a ccounted for ne a rly every hour of their st ay in the Pesh a w a r Valley It w a s shown to me an d I w a s a sked if I could suggest a nything to fill in a two hours g ap whi ch a ppe a red to be the onl y bl a nk in time left I suggested th a t a two hours rest might possibly be needful a n d appreci a ted But the ceremoni a l programme w a s ve ry strictly c a rried out The roy al Visitors a rrived on the morn ing of S eptember 30 a n d were received at the r a ilwa y EARL Y
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13 0
VISIT
THE AM IR’ S
on
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gr andest p art of the Khyber a fter j ourneying so far an d I ha d m a de every prep a r a tion for such a visit The Commissioner however did not like visits to the Khyber an d w a s a pprehensive th at by going beyond Fort J a mrud some d a nger might be incurred a n d therefore he directed th a t a s far a s possible vi sitors should not be permitted to j ourney much to the west of J a mrud My own Opini on w as th at the most d angerous Spot on the whole ro a d w a s the ground in the vicinity of tha t fort bec a use the ne a r Kuki Khel vill ages ha d living a mongst them a num ber of mur d erers thieves a n d housebre a kers w ho ha d run aw ay from the Pesh a wa r District a n d t a ken shelter with the Kuki Khel These outl a ws m a ny of them with rew a rds on their he a ds— a n d w ho if c aptured might be executed —were the individu als who were to be dre a ded an d gu a rded a g a inst The further you got a w a y from Fort J a mrud the s a fer the ro a d a n d loc a lity a n d the more ple a sed the people were to see Euro pe a ns I a lwa ys on this a ccount encour aged such trips an d in time Al i M a sj id on Tuesda ys w a s turned into a ple a s a nt picnic ground There were severa l c a ses of Gha zi outr a ges in Pesha wa r C a ntonments during 1882 to Jul y 11 189 7 a n d not a house w a s a ctu all y s a fe from the prowling thi eves during the da rk nights of every month but the lives an d property of Europe a n visitors to the Khyber were a s s a fe a s in the streets of London The n ame Fo rt J a mrud which w e ha d given to this Sikh fort ress bui lt by H a rri Singh in the ye ar 1 8 36 — 37 ha s a lwa ys been a puzzle to me Ja m is t he n ame of the Kuki Khel vill a ge which lies ne a rest t o the fort on the left b a nk of the r a vine which form s Ra d in t he e a stern entr ance of the Khyber P a ss an d
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I NSOLENC E OF A MIN KHAN
18847 85
13 1
Persi a n me a ns stre a m or rivul et The stre a m th a t flows down by Ali Ma sjid a n d is j oined at J a b b a g ai by the w a ters of the Chora rivul et irrig a tes a fter thi s meeting the l a nds of sever a l Kuk i Khel vill a ges the l a rgest of whi ch is n a med Ka dda m The correct n a me for thi s very tiny river might be Rud i Khyber i Al i M a sj id Rud i Kuki Khel but no O ri ent a l Rud — wo ul d style it J a mrud However once upon a time someone g a ve thi s n ame to the fort a n d Fort J a mrud it w ill now rem a in E a rly in the ye a r 1 885 Amin Kh a n Kuki Kh el comm enced to pl a y pr a nks w hi ch a fter seven a n d a h alf ye a rs of const a nt a n d incess a nt trouble on hi s p a rt ul tim a tely ended in brin g in g him to g rief He ha d a f a irly full tre a sury if one could a pply such a term to the thirty to forty thous a nd rupees collected by his fa ther duri ng hi s four ye a rs Of m aliki but this sum w a s a very l a rge a mount in the eyes Of Afri di s The young l a d ha d a number Of evil a dvisers but his tra ini ng under his fa ther s eyes a n d a ccor di ng to his f a ther s principles w a s hi s gre a test mi sfortune He ha d been brought up to believe th a t w e co ul d be squeezed to a ny extent a n d tha t to prevent rupture the a uthorities would g ive in to a ny dem a nd a s much a s it w a s possible to surrender a n d t hi s mist a ke on his p a rt he di d not di scover un til it w a s too l a te to rectify it He wrote a n a ngry letter (his fa ther ha d ha d him t a ught to re a d a n d write Persi a n) a sh n g th a t the speci a l all owa nce of Rs 15 0 a month he stowed On hi s fa ther shoul d be continued to hi m It w a s pointed out to him in reply th a t the condition under which the gra nt w a s m a de to Ma lik A bdul l a Nur The Lieut Governor w a s th a t it w a s o nl y for his life Of the P a nj a b Sir C Ai tcheson ha d a rrived a t Pesh a .
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1 32
V ISIT
THE A M IR S ’
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being a bout to hold a d a rb a r ha d expressed a wish to see the Khyber ro a d a s fa r a s Al i M a sj id S a rd a r A sl a m Kh a n h a ving gone a w a y on the Afgha n B ounda ry Commission his pl a ce w a s tempora rily fill ed b y S a y a d B a dsh a h B a nuri of G erm a in the Koh a t District a gentlem an well known on the frontier a n d who ha d done good service under me a t Hoti M a rd a n a n d J e l all ab a d Amin Kh a n informed S a y a d B a dsh a h th a t if this S peci a l a llowa nce w a s not given to him a t once a n d before the Lieut G overnor s visit to Al i M a sjid he would fi re on Sir C Aitcheson a n d suite if they ventured into the P a ss I strongly urged th a t he Should be turned out of his m a liki forthwith a n d th a t the tribe be informed a t the d a rb a r which w a s to be held th a t morning th a t they must select a nother represen t a tive a s w e could not possibly The Lieut Governor a ccept this m a n a s their chief thought otherwise a n d preferred w a rning the Kuki Kh el j irg a a t the d a rb a r th a t he m a de them a nswer a ble for the beh a viour of their selected chief He put Off his j ourney to Al i M a sj id a lso a n d limited his trip to J a mrud Reports were a flo a t imme di a tely a fter this d a rb a r th a t a n Imperi a l d a rb a r w a s shortly to be held a t R a w a l Pin di a n d th a t H H Am ir Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n w a s coming down from C a ubul to a ttend in person to seek a person a l interview w ith H E the Viceroy Governor Gener a l of Indi a These reports an d proved correct a n d my business w a s to supply the Amir a n d a ll his retinue with food wood gr a ss a n d everything the y required a t L a ndi Kot al Sh a g a i ( ne a r At L a ndi Kot a l the o nl y Al i M a sjid) a n d J a mrud commodities procur a ble were wood a n d gra ss even w a ter ha d to be brought from L a n di Kh a n a Sh a g a i ,
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1 34
TH E A
MI RS VISIT ’
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sent men to point out to him the ground cle a red a n d portioned off for the Afgh a n c a mp I le a rnt l a ter on th a t this individu a l w a s the he a d executioner of the ruler of the God gra nted kingdom a n d so I g a ve him a wide berth a fterwa rds Next morning w e were to meet His Highness a t our bound a ry line Tor Kh am a n d proceeding there e a rly we w a ited in review order for fully two hours before His High ness s c a v a lc a de c a me up The custom a ry intro d u c t ion s h aving t a ken pl a ce w e ha d time to look a t the Amir who w a s surrounded by a crowd of a ttend a nts ( p es h khid m a t s ) on foot Just behi nd him rode the D a b ir u l Mulk Ghol a m Na b b i his Comm a nder in Chief Sip a r S a l a r Ghol a m Hyder Kh a n Ch a rkhi our British Agent S a rd a r Afz a l Kh a n a n d one or two l a ds mounted on good horses Our c a v a lry w a s directed to go in front a s the Amir preferred h a ving his o w n men ne a r a n d round him The c a rrier pigeons be a ring a mess a ge to Pesh a w a r of his a rriva l were now let go whilst the Amir w a s ch a ng ing his mount a ve ry strong pony a bout in height Another a nim a l of the s a me height a n d build w a s brought up close to the one he w a s riding fa cing in the opposite di rection His Highness took his left foot out of his stirrup a n d pl a ced it inside the ne a r stirrup o f the s a ddle on the fresh mount ; h a ving done this the right foot with the support of severa l a ttend a nts w a s brought over the neck of the a nim a l he ha d a lre a dy ridden a n d swung over the s a ddl e of the fresh mount In this w a y the a n d he w a s then re a dy for a st a rt tr ouble of dismounting to the ground a n d then m ounting a g a in w a s a v oided One Of the Af gh a n a young l a d of some twenty ye a rs of a g e c o r teg e a ttempte d to show Off his own wonderful equestri a n .
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THE
1884 -85
A
MI R S C AVAL C ADE
13 5
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bility in the n a rrow r a vine an d his horse letting out inj ured three anim a ls belonging to the Beng a l C a v a lry One excit a ble comm a nd a nt of infa ntry cra cked his whip repe a tedl y a n d m a de his foot sol di ers st a mp their feet violently a s they m a rched up the sloping ro a d le a di ng to L a n di Kot a l Behind the in ia n try c a me the roy a l drum if one m a y c a ll it so which boomed out a t interva ls then H H the Am ir s c a v a l c a de followed by the Durra ni horse then the moun t a in guns the re a r being brought up by the U z Beg c a va lry ( them House Bugs a s the British sol di ers a t R a w a l Pin di c a ll ed them ) The Am ir s Offi ci a ls hi ghl y tra ined kept perfectly silent throughout this a n d every other ride a n d reg a rded us like im a ges of stone The pla te a u of L a ndi Kot a l w a s re a ched a t l a st a n d ne a r the c a ra v a n sera i a n d lines of the Khyber Rifles a crowd of some hillmen most ly a rmed some se a ted some st a n ding were wa iting expect a ntly the a rriva l of the Amir Then followed The Am ir a scene whi ch I could not underst a nd looked round a n d one of t he mounted a ttenda nts rode up whom he a d dr essed in Persi a n I onl y c a ught the words Do your duty The a ttenda nt g a ve some instructions to h a lf a dozen mounted men a n d a s the Amir s c a va lc a de a ppro a ched a group of a rmed men one of the a ttenda nts rode up a n d h a lted his horse in front of them until His Highness ha d p a ssed All the w a y down the P a ss a n d on the return j ourney thi s scene w a s repe a te dl y en a cted no m a tter whether the a rmed Af ri di s were st a n d ing on the level ground or perched on a rock twenty feet a bove the Khyber ro a d Ar riv ing a t his c a mp Abdur R a hm a n dismounted a n d took his se a t in his d a rb a r tent a t the he a d whi lst some a
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136
’ M H E A I R S T
V I SIT
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V II I
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four or fiv e of us following the Commissioner were supplied with ch a irs the Af gh a n st aff sta nding out side Te a in the Russi a n fa shi on w a s brought round in gl a sses whilst w e w ho ha d been up since 4 A M a n d were fa mi shed with hunger longed for the enter t a in m e nt to bre a k up so th a t w e might go to our bre a kfa sts at the mess tent of the l s t Beng a l C a v a lry There being a di ffi culty in commencing a convers a tion the C ommissioner turned to His Highness a n d a sked him if he ha d seen the pigeons th a t ha d been let loose a t Tor Kh am The Amir s a id th a t he ha d not noticed them a n d a sked w hy a n d with wh a t obj ect they ha d been brought The Commi ssioner a tte m pted to expl a in the m a tter a n d inquired if c a rrier pigeons were ever employed in Afgh a nist a n His Highness then told him th a t 4 00 were flown d a ily between C a ubul a n d Hera t There w a s a silence for a minute a fter this when S a rd ar Muh a mm a d Om a r Kh a n , brother of S a rd a r Muh a mm a d Afz a l Kh a n the British Envoy a t the court of the A mi r a sked His Highn ess wh a t the di st a nce might be bet ween C a ub ul an d Hera t His Highn ess ex pl a ined the geogra phy of Afgha nist a n in a m a nn er which exemplifi ed the proverb th a t silence w a s golden especi a lly in the presence Of Am irs In 1884 the Amir s Offi ci a ls ha d desired to build their post a t L a n di Kh a n a , but were w a rned th a t their bound a ry di d not co m e e a st of Tor Kh a m a n d on this a ccount w e ha d st a rted very e a rly to meet His Highness a t the ex a ct spot where our limits ended a nd those of It w a s a m a tter of n e c e s Afgh a nist a n commenced s it y for us to be on t hi s ground before His Highn ess The Ami r s retinue consisted of a rrived there men ponies a n d horses besides n umerous ,
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TH E A
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Pesh a w a r thundered forth a s a lute a n d the 12 t h Beng a l C a v a lry were dra wn up to t a ke their sh a re of escort duty from J a mrud to Pesh a wa r The guns a n d horses of the fi eld b a ttery h a ving re a ched Fort J a mrud on the evening of M a rch 2 8 ha d been house d in the inclosure fa cing west During the d a rk night some ra sc a lly Kuki Khel Afridi or wh a t is more likely some Pesh a wa ri outl a w living in their vill a ges crept up to the t a nks th a t a dj oin this enclosure mounted one of the pill a rs of the g a tew a y a n d fire d his rifle lo a ded with three or four Slugs in the dire c tion of the horses a n d then slunk a w a y It w a s a stupid trick a s two horses were slightly wounded a n d the Kuki Khel A fridis suffered to the extent of PM the RS 6 00 fi n e T h a t evening a bout Commissioner spoke severely to M a lik Amin Kh a n a n d the Kuki Khel elders who ha d been collected for this purpose a n d s a id th a t they ought to look better In this p a r a fter the b a d ch a r a cters of their tribe t ic u l a r c a se Amin Kh a n w a s innocent a s he w a s with us a t Sh a g a i when the shot w a s fi red The 1 2 th B eng a l C a v a lry occupying the northern inclosure of the fort kindly a sked me to di nner a n d to h a ve my morning me a l with them a s the l s t B eng a l C a v a lry ha d pitched their c a mp a good dist a nce from the fort in the direction of Pesh a wa r It w a s a bout 10 P M our dinner w a s over a n d we ha d dr a wn ne a r the fi re for a smoke whilst the r a in w a s coming gently down outside —when three shots in quick succession ra ng out They a re a t the horses of the l s t B eng a l C a v a lry I cried an d rose up to go to my qu a rters but I w a s deceived by the direction of the sound When I got to my qu a rters some 2 00 y a rds a w a y a messenger told me th a t the ,
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ARRI VA L
1884- 85
R AWAL PINDI
AT
13 9
Commissioner wished to see m e a s his tent ha d been fi red into However a fter due inquiry it turne d out not so b a d a s th a t A Mull a gori sentry over his c a mp h a ving been relieved off duty ha d wa lke d tow a rds a couple of thieves who were m a king their Thinking they were dis w a y to the Amir s c a mp covered they fi red over the sentry s he a d a n d fled up the r a vine whilst he disch a rged his rifle a t them S a tisfi ed with this expl an a tion which w a s correct we retired to rest The next d a y in pouring r a in we continued our m a rch to Pesh a w a r From there it w a s my l ot to t a ke the fi rst b a tch of the Amir s infa ntry by ra il to R a wa l Pindi a n d a g a in in he a vy showers w e re a ched our destin a tion a bout 1 1 P M I w as most lucky in fi nding severa l n a tive o ffi cers of the B eng a l an d P a nj a b c a v a lry on the pl atform re a dy to help me with det a chments of their men All were Muh a mm a d a ns a n d convers a nt with Persi a n a n d Pushtu so their a id w a s of the gre a test v a lue The Officer in ch a rge of the a rra ngements for H H the Amir s c a mp w a s my friend Turner of t he Pa nj a b Frontier Force w ho in 187 9 ha d come down from C a ubul in ch a rge of ex Am ir Muh amm a d Ya kub Kh a n Re a ching his tent I w a s wa rmly welcomed a n d provided with food a fter h a vin g ha d a nine hours f a st between Pesh a w a r a n d Ra w ul Pindi I ha d to go two or three times before H is Highness on some duty a n d Amir Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n a lw a ys g a ve me a kin dl y welcome but spoke to me a s if I ha d j ust a rrived from the Khyber a lthough I a ssured him th a t I ha d been a ll the time in his c amp a t R a w a l Pindi The d a rb a r a n d ,
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14 0
THE A
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p a r a des being over Gener a l T Gordon one morning d irected me to a ccomp a ny him a s the Am ir intended visiting the fort a t R a w a l Pindi a n d ex a mining a ll th a t w a s to be seen there The Gener a l comm a nd ing the R a w a l Pin d i Division with his full st a ff w a s there to receive the Amir who c a me wi t h his Sip a h S a l a r a n d a selected few We were fi rst t a ken down into the powder m a g azine in which were stored pounds of gu npowder The Am ir w a lking with some difficulty w a s next conducted through the v a rious wa rds fi lled with rifles A model of the l a test 16 pounder fi eld gun which w a s being built a t Woolwich w a s st a nding in the centre of the a rsen a l I believe th a t a t th a t period it w a s the only model in Indi a a n d not a single fi eld b a ttery outside of Engl a nd w a s then supplied with this a rm The we a pon w a s bro u ght to the Amir s notice upon which His Highne ss told us th a t he ha d a lre a dy three b a tteries of fi eld a rtillery equipped with this gun a t C a ubul Then correcting himself he replied No onl y t w o b a tteries a s the gun c a rri a ges of the third a re not yet re a dy A scending the st a irs to the r a mp a rt His Highness rested on the slopes of one of the gun redoubts j ust the c a poniere fa cing the p a rk a n d com a bove m en c e d m a king inquiries a bout the cost Of the fort the time it took to build a n d wh a t the c a poniere T hen looking a t a hillock in the w a s me a nt for midst of the p a rk a n d not very far Off he a sked wh a t w a s its use He m a de the s a me a pplic a tion Then rising up from the r eg a rding a nother mound sw a rd he s a id in sh a rp quick sentences It is a good fort it must h a ve cost a lot of money to build but it is comm a nded ,
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1 42
THE A
M
IR S ’
V IS IT
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His Highness an d c a me awa y from his tent a bout 1 A H in the morning Then it took a nother hour to write down all th a t His Highness ha d s a id to us A pril 18 found us j ourneying westwa rds tow a rds L a n di Kh a n a A Z a kh a Kh el thief ha d been secured a t D a kk a in the very a c t of house bre a king a n d now his Ol d mother running a longside the c a v a lc a de solicited his p a rdon a n d rele a se from Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n But in such m a tters His Highness w a s very You must h ave brought your son up very fi rm b a dl y a s a mother for him to be a thief n ow w a s the reply given to the Ol d l a dy s solicit a tions by one w ho ha d cle a red m a ny thi eves out of his own country with a strong h and Just then the Am ir reigned in his horse a n d c a lled out Does a nyone know which is M a du Kwa la an d Tor Kh a m ? On this the c a v a lc a de h a lted an d I expl ained a n d pointed out e a ch loc ality The Am ir w a s m a king inqui ries a bout the spot where the bounda ries Of Afgh a nist an a n d the Khyber Ch a rge met on this ro a d U rging hi s pony up a little hillock on the right h a nd side a n d followed by a nd some of his own a ll the Europe a n o ffi ci a ls st a ff the Am ir directed his Comm a nder in Chief to build his Afgh a n post on the crest of th a t hillock This post ha s not been built yet a n d a lthough fourteen ye a rs h a ve el a psed since th a t morning of A pril 18 1885 the di spute between the Am ir s o ffi ci als a n d our own reg a r di ng the Af gh a n bound a ry line being a t Tor Kh a m or L a ndi Kh a n a ha s not been A s a m a tter of much im di sposed of up to d a te port a nce Tor Kh a m w a s m a de our bound a ry limit immedi a tely a fter the sign a ture of the tre a ty of
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TA KING LE AV E
1 884 - 85
G a n d a m ak
A MIR
OF
14 3
B ut in those da ys the present Ruler of
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A fgh a nist a n w a s a t The time ha d
S a m a rc a nd now come to bid a di eu to our Roy a l guest Wishing us fa rewell Am ir Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n followed by a ll his dignit a ries of st a te his troops p es h lchid m a ts a n d the Z a kh a Khel l a dy a sking p a rdon for her son moved on into the limits of his own God gr a nted Government ( The Am ir a n d a ll his Offi ci a ls in their corre i K hod a d a d s p on d e n c e c a ll Afgh a nist a n the S a l tin a t — i e the God gr a nted Governmen t ) We a ll di s mounted to t a ke a few minutes rest before returning to L a ndi Kot a l a n d in this interva l the Com missioner busied himself in writing his desp a tch a nnounci n g the dep a rture of the A mir a n d pl a cing it in the usu a l w ay rele a sed the only p a ir of c a rrier pigeons th a t we ha d brought with us to st a rt on their risky j ourney to Pesh a w a r There a re some very high cliffs a t Tor Kh a m on the le ft h a nd side of the ro a d a n d before the c a rrier pigeons ha d m a de a couple of circles one of them w a s sn a pped up by a peregrine The second pigeon g a ve a longer flight a n d w e wa tched the ch a se a nxiously ; the pursued bird a ctu a lly flew inside a huge hollow in the rock but w a s ch a sed out a g a in At l a st it w a s secured both the peregrine a n d the pigeon coming down to the ground within 100 y a rds of the line of the 1s t Beng a l C a v a lry who dismounted were a nxiously wa tching the flight A rush w a s a t once m a de towa rds the birds a n d the peregrine cle a ring Off permitted the men to secure the pigeon It w a s the bird th a t c a rried the quill conveying the mess a ge Its feet were much torn by the t a lons of the h a wk a n d it w a s of course in gre a t terror We .
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144
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returned to L a ndi Kot a l rem a ined there th a t d a y a n d on the 1 9t h j ourneyed to Pesh a w a r our kind hosts the l s t Beng a l C a val ry bre a king their j ourney a t J a mr ud The Am ir s vi sit through the Khyber P a ss t a king up six da ys coming an d going ha d been no sinecur e A S I h a ve noted before to the Khyber offi ci a ls every item of food a n d a ll suppli es ha d to be brought from Pesh a w a r The c a mps ha d to be c a refully gu a rded both by night a n d d a y There w a s the fe a r of some Afgh a n stri king a n Afridi a n d the l a tter using in return his rifle or his long knife There w a s even the gre a ter d a nger of some evil minded person a scen di ng a hi ll top a n d fi ring into the Amir s c a mp At Ali Ma sjid I s a w a couple of U z — beg c a v a lry d a sh their horses into the stre a m a n d a ttempt to spe a r a couple Of t a me ducks belonging to a Kuki Khel Af ri di householder Then at J a mrud the two thieves m aking their w ay towa rds the Am ir s c amp on a d a rk r a iny night were interf ered But h a ppily nothing w ith by the Mull a gori sentry occurred during t hi s week of a nx iety to a d d to our troubles a n d w e rej oiced tha t our guests ha d j ourne y ed s a fely through the Khyber The fi rst night however th a t His Highness enc a mped a t D a kk a a fter p a rting with us thieves broke into his c a mp a n d removed Six M a rtini Henry rifles from the c a re of hi s sol di ery The r a in a n d the cool we a ther still continued a n d it w as very fortun a te for us th a t we were so luckil y situ a ted For a bout the end of M ay we ha d to dra g up the six he a vy guns whi ch the Government of Indi a ha d presented to the Am ir A good de a l of del a y ha d been incurred in forw a r di ng these he a vy o b s o ,
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1 46
THE A
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the Kh a ib a r Politic a l Di a ry from the 15 t h to the 2 l s t April a n d t o s a y His Honor fully endorses your rem a rks reg a rding the services of Ma j or W a rburton , the Kha ib a r Rifles a n d the Kh a ib a r m a liks an d tribes on the occ a sion of the p a ss a ge of His High ness the Amir a n d his retinue through the P a ss I a m to request th a t you will convey to M a j or W a r burton a n expression of His Honor s a ppreci a tion of the excellent a rr a ngements m a de by him on this occ a sion Ag a in a letter d a ted L a hore June 2 6 1885 from the Secret a ry to Government P a nj a b to the Com missioner a n d Superintendent Pesh a wa r Division noted I am now to a d d tha t the Lieuten a nt Governor is much obliged to M aj or Wa rburton for his exertions which were highl y credit a ble to him But those who deserved most cre dit of all were t he o fli c ers a n d men of the Khyber Rifles w ho u n fli n c hin g ly through cold a n d r a in c a rried out al l t heir diffi cult duties without a murmur ,
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CHAPTER IX E H .
NO
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A M I R AB D U R RA HM A N K H AN
ttempt will be m a de here to de a l with a n y politic a l be a rings touching the life a n d reign of the rem a rk a ble m a n w ho ha s been Ruler of Afgh a nist a n for now more th a n nineteen ye a rs The history of th a t country from the time of the de a th Of the gre a t Am ir Dost Muh a mm a d Kh a n to the period which m a de S a rd a r Abdur R a hm a n a fugitive a n d a pen is well kn own to a ll re a ders s ion er a t S a m a rc a nd of Centr a l A si a n history a n d they must be equ a lly fa mili a r with the a ttempts m a de to concili a te Am ir Sher Al i Kh a n from 1 869 to the time th a t our troops a dv a nced on November 2 1 18 7 8 to inv a de Wh a tever m a y h a ve been the c a uses Afgh a nist a n which prevented our winning the a ffection of the Afgh a n ruler his s a rd a rs a n d his people must be left to the j udgment of those experts a t C a lcutt a Siml a or the In di a O ffice in whose h a nds lie the destinies of Indi a I sh all only de a l here with the m a rvellous luck a n d good fortune th a t h a ve a lwa ys a ttended Abdur R a hm a n from the time he st a rted from S a m a rc a nd in the e a rly p a rt Of 1880 to win for himself the rul ership of th a t troublesome country known to us a s the l a nd of the Afgh a ns In the spring of 1880 we were holding C a nd a h a r Kurr a m C a ubul an d the line via J el a lla b a d a n d the a
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E H .
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A MIR
A BDU R
RAH MAN KHAN
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1x
Khyber P a ss to Pesh a w a r The very powerful co a li tion formed by Muh a mm a d Ja n Kh a n Mushki Al a m a n d the s a rd a rs a n d chiefs of the Sher Al i Kh a n fac tion ha d been defe a ted in their a tt a ck on Sherpur but the y were not crushed a n d their power w a s still very gre a t Westwa rds from C a nd a h a r to Her a t the whole country w a s Virtu a lly in the h a nds Of S a rd a r Muh a mm a d Ayub Kh a n a n d wh a t is known to us a s Afgh a n Turkest a n including B a da khsh a n w a s held for the Sher Al i Kha n dyn a st y by Gener a l Ghol a m Hyder Kh a n Wa rd a k a trusted soldier of Amir Sher This w a s the condition Of the country when Ali s the present Amir with his sm a ll following left S a m a r c a nd a n d m a de for the north e a st qu a rter of Afgh a n Turkest a n a n d crossing the Oxus entered B a d a kh sh a n The fi rst notice we ha d of his a rriv a l on A fgh a n soil w a s sent to me by S a y a d M a hmud B a dsh a h of Kuner a n d delivered a t J e l all a b a d a bout the very d a y th a t Mr Lepel Gri ffin ha d a rrived there Although in a demi Offic ia l letter en r ou t e to C a ubul to the Foreign Dep a rtment some time before this I ha d expl a ined the a dv a nt a ges of pl a cing Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n on the throne y et the C h a n ces Of his being permitted to get a n entry into Af gh a nist a n were S O remote th a t it seemed a positive cert a inty of one of the l a te Am ir Sher Al i Kh a n s fa mily being a ccepted a s Amir when our troops withdrew from the country S a rda r M Ayub Kh a n w a s p a r a mount a t Her a t a n d nothing th a t the Opposite fa ction could do would h a ve sh a ken his a uthority in th a t province for one S ingle second ; a n d he further knew or must h a ve surmised th a t sooner or l a ter the B ritish troops would be withdr a wn from C a ubul a n d th a t the only individu a l he a n d his dyn a sty ha d to fe a r a s a .
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1 50
E H .
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A MIR
RAH MAN KH AN
A BD U R
on
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m
Gh a zis w a s a rr a nging to strike In this w ay M u h a mm a d Ja n Kh a n w a s secured a n d sent a w a y in the direction of Afgh a n Turkest a n under ch a rge of one of the Am ir s much trusted p es h khid m a ts a n d he ha s not yet returned to his f a ithful friends a t C a ubul Whilst Muh a mm a d Jan Kh a n s c a reer w a s being thus cut S hort S a rd a r Muh a mm a d Ayub Kh a n w ho ha d returned to Her a t a fter his defe a t a t B a b a W a lli w a s r a ising up a nother a rmy a n d getting together a nother fi eld a rtillery a n d when his pl a ns were re a dy he a g a in m a rched tow a rds C a nd a h a r a n d on this occ a sion w a s lucky enough to defe a t Am ir Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n s genera l a n d secure C a nd a h a r Friends urged him time a fter time to a dv a nce upon C a ubul His n a me w a s then high in fa vour ; the powerful Ghilz a i tribe who revolted a fterw a rds were wa vering a n d might h a ve j oined him His presence a t C a nd a h a r w a s inj urious t o him bec a use the peopl e there knew we were supporting Amir Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n a n d Ayub s followers decl a red a fterwa rds th a t it w a s this sup port which ruined their m a ster s c a use a n d not a nythin g which Amir A bdur Ra h B ut Ayub lingered a t C a nda h a r m a n Kh a n di d a n d permitted his riv a l to m a rch down through t he Ghilz a i country incre a sing his own influence there by crushing the fa ction of his enemy a n d in the end winning a t C a nd a h a r whilst his gener a l S a rd a r A bdul Kudus Kh a n m a rching from Afgh a n Turkest a n by w a y of M a im e n a w a s fortun a te enough to secure Hera t city a n d district S a rd a r M Ayub Kh a n ha d no further resource left but to s a ve himself by An d in this w ay Amir Abdur flight into Persi a R a hm a n w a s a ble to tide over the most d a ngerous .
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W ARIS
SH IN
A ND GH I
LZA I S
crisis of his c a reer Since he bec a me the recognised Am ir of Afgh a nist a n The next incident w a s the rising of the Al i Sher Khel M a ndez a i S a n gu Khel a n d Sip a h S hi nwa ris of Ning raha r in the Je l a ll ab a d Dist ri ct the fi rst of whom a re rel a ted to a n d a re a bra nch of the Shin w a ris of L o arg i (from L w a ra highl a nd) a n d some times known a s L a ndi Kot a l (L a n d or Short Kot a l) w ho h a ve come under u S by the tre a ty of G a n d am a k These four Shinw a ri cl a ns cl a imed cert a in posts between L a ndi Kh a n a a n d D a kk a on the Pesh a w a r J e l all a b a d ro a d a n d since His Highness ha d opened his portion of the ro a d to c a ra v a ns an d w a s t a king tolls from tra vellers a n d merch a nts these hi ll men thought they ha d a right to m a ke some dem a nd for their sh a re a lso But inste a d of ple a di ng their c a use in a gentle suit a ble m a nner they a ttempted to S ecure it by force of a rms an d this w a s a very d a ngerous g a me to pl a y with His Highness Troops were imme di a tely l a unched into the Shinwa ri country a n d during the sixteen ye a rs th a t h a ve el a psed Since the fi rst commencement of this trouble the power of the four cl a ns ha s been entirely crushed a n d they h a ve been compelled to become revenue p a ying sub j ects of the Am ir About the s a me time the Ma ng a ls a n d the people of Kuner bec a me fr a ctious but their resist a nce w a s not of SO persistent or ten a cious a n a ture a s th a t Of the Shins The gre a t Ghilz a i tribe were now a bout to try their luck a g a inst the fortun a te ruler of Afgh a nist a n a n d a lthough a t the outset some sp a rk of success a ttended their exertions and one or two of the A mir s gener a ls were h a rd pressed still in the end the gre a ter un a nimity in the councils a n d the .
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152
HH .
AMIR
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RAHM A N KHAN
A BDU R
on
IX
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gre a ter resources of the Afgh a n G overnment m a de victory a ssured a n d cert a in The Ghi lz a is were compelled to bow the knee an d forced to surrender a ll their a rms Just a bout this time S a rd a r M Ayub Kh a n m a de his venture from Tehera n in the direc tion of Hera t but on a rriving a t the confi nes of th a t province he le a rnt th a t a ll his friends were de a d a nd buried a n d th a t the new genera tion knew him not S a rd a r Muh a mm a d Ish a k Kh a n cousin of the Am ir s a n d son of Amir Azim Kh a n who ha d for eight ye a rs ruled Afgh a n— Turkest a n a s Governor on beh a lf of Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n selected the ye a r 1888 for r a ising the st a nd a rd of revolt a g a inst His Highness The comm a nd of the C a ubul a rmy w a s entrusted to Ghol a m Hyder Kh a n Ora kz a i ( known a s L a nd a i on a ccount of his Short st a ture) a n d the b a ttle of Gha z nig ha k whi ch should h a ve been a victory for Ish a k Kh an w a s turned into a defe a t by his conduct a n d the bra ve energy of Ghol a m Hyder S a rd a r M Ish a k Kh a n with a ll his fam ily crossed the Oxus a n d he is now loc a ted a t S am a rc a nd wa it ing p a tiently for the time when he m a y be once more c a lled to m a ke a bid for the throne of C a ubul The c a mp a ign a g a inst the H a z a r a s w a s a long but in the end His Highness w a s a n d trying one victorious a n d the H a z a ra power w a s broken It m a y be resuscit a ted some d ay when Russi a occupies Her a t a n d Afgh a n Turkest a n a n d feels it worth her whi le to secure the people of the H a z a ra j a t a s a ll ies in a n y movement towa rds Kel a t i Ghilz i Ghu z ni or C a nd a h a r But this is not a subj ect which S hould be a llowed a pl a ce here The overthrow of the Ka firs th a t r a ce which ha d held its own a g a inst a ll the gre a t conquerors of Asi a — Sult a n M a hmud of Ghu z ni .
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CHAPTER IN
TH E
X
K H YB E R
1886 — 18 88
SAYAD
BAD SHAH ,
o ffici a ting Comm a nd a nt Khyber Rifles di ed suddenly of he a rt dise a se during Sep tember 1885 a n d his pl a ce w a s t a ken by Ma lik Afridi Kh a n second in comm a nd pending the return Of S a rd a r Muh a mm a d A sl a m Kh a n a bsent with the Af gh a n Bound a ry Commission One d a y in the winter Af ridi Kh a n a n d I ha d to go to the Sip a h vill a ge of Il a m gud a r which lies a bout t w o miles in a south westerly direction in the bed Of the stre a m from Fort B a r a The Vill a ge is on the left b a nk of the B a ra River a n d consists of a succession of h a mlets e a ch with a tower or t w o to defend the Site a n d crops exten di ng for a dist a nce of three to three and a h a lf miles towa rds the hills Until you a ctu a lly come on to the b a nk a n d look down on the houses nothing but the st a nding towers a re Visible Once upon a time during the Sikh rule a Kuki Khel Afridi led the Sikhs on a n d helped them to surprise the vill a ge a n d the residents ha d a very hot time Of it In spite Of the strong hostility th a t pre v a iled between the Ak a Khel w ho mustered a bout a n d the Sip a h Afridis whose numbers h a rdl y c a me up to h a lf this the Il a m gud a r Sip a hs were S plit up into two p a rties h a ving a deep rooted blood feud one a g a inst the other a n d they ne a rly c a me to ,
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AF RIDI VI LL A GERS
1 886 -88
155
blows in my presence Arriving a t the tower which l ay ne a rest to Fort B a r a a n d h a ving t a ken seven or eight of their men we went in a direction due west through the open pl ain keeping a wa y from the river a n d its h a bit a tions H a ving completed the purpose for which we ha d gone out w e returned a long the left b ank tow a rds Fort B a ra p a ssing a ll the buil di ngs a n d towers It w a s a good Old custom once genera l throughout In di a but which ha s dis a ppe a red in these d a ys th a t whenever a n English o fficer c a me to a h a mlet the vill a ge he a dm a n would come out an d which he merely touched a n d Offer him a rupee politel y returned This good custom I a m gl a d to s a y S till holds good in the Khyber R a nge a n d if the people know the Sa hib they produce a sheep a n d a h a ndful of rupees an d Offer them to the English guest The custom is to put your h a nd on the rupees th a nk the donor an d a s k him to keep them for you until required On this occ a sion we ha d c a rried out our duty with the inh a bit a nts Of two towers a n d their h a mlets w ho h a ppened to be friendly to the Sip ahs w ho formed our p a rty from the st a rt Coming towa rds the third tower we s a w nine or ten a rmed men st a n ding to receive us a n d I suddenly he a rd the click click of the rifles of the men with me e a ch individu a l pl a cing his piece a t full cock for inst a nt a ction This w a rned me th a t we were on d a ngerous ground S a hib there will be bloodshed if we do not look out cried Ma lik Afridi Kh a n ; so we stopped for a n inst a nt to see wh a t could be done a s the ri v a l p a rties were now only thirty y a rds a p a rt a n d up to th a t moment I ha d not been w a rned of the two sides being enemies Send ing Afridi Kh a n to m a ke a d etou r to our left wit h .
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15 6
K HYBER
IN TH E
on
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our p a rty I a ppro a ched those who ha d j ust come out to receive me a n d the usu a l form a lities were gone through I rem a ined t a lking with them until Afri di Kh a n ha d got some two or three hundred y a rds a w a y with his following I a sked al l to return quietly to their homes which they did whilst I rode a fter a n d rej oined A fridi Kh a n It w a s to me a lwa ys but there a ple a sure to go to these A fridi vill a ges w a s a n occ a sion a l dr a wb a ck when some Pesh a w a ri outl a w w a s produced a n d you were a sked to Obta in his p a rdon However when they le a rnt th a t this procedure w a s di st a steful to me they g a ve it up I m a de it cle a r to them th a t no ple a di ng on my p a rt could secure a p a rdon for the Offender S a rd a r Muh a mm a d H a ss a n Kh a n ex— Governor Of Jel all a b a d ha d been in Afridi a n d Or a kz a i Tir a h ever since the commencement of the Shinw a ri re volt in 1883 a n d ha d done his best to stir up the Owing to our former Am ir s subj ects a g a inst him a cqu a int a nce he opened up communic a tions with me a n d a sked me to obt a in permission for hi m to j ourney in s a fety through In di a to Persi a I did so a n d ple a ded his c a use to the best of my a bility a n d in time the s a nction c a me but with a reserva tion th a t on no a ccount would the s a rd a r receive a n y a llow These a nce or pension from the revenues of Indi a orders I communic a ted to him a n d intim a ted th a t if he c a me to me I would see th a t he w a s not interfered with However he preferred to c a rry out his own wa ys Of procedure a n d riding quietly into the city of Pesh a w a r he got into the tra in a n d left without giving me an y notice of his movements The next morning his horse w a s recognised a s it w a s being t a ken by Il a m gud a r a n d I w a s a pprised of wh a t he ,
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158
ha d
KH YBER
IN THE
on
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rrived there with the fi rst b a tch Of S a rd a r Muh a mm a d Ayub Kha n s friends an d w a s in receipt of RS 1OO a month from us I c a lled a n d p a id hi m a visit a n d ha d a long interview with him He left Indi a a g a in for some re a son unknown to me a n d in 18 95 he went to Engl a nd in S a rd a r N a srul l a Kh a n s suite a n d is now one of H H Am ir Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n s most devoted serva nts a t C a ubul Stra nge events occur in the history of these frontier tribes Outsiders will h a rdly credit some of the stories told but numbers of reli a ble witnesses c a n testify to the ver a city of the following one Amongst Afridis a n d P a th a ns the di spos a l of a widow lies in the h a nds of the ne a rest m a le rel a tion to her dece a sed husb a nd If the son is of a g e Of course he is the fi rst consulted ; but a n Afri di mother w ith a grown up son is not often of much c a sh v a lue in the Khyber m a rket If on the other h a nd the wom a n is a ttr a ctive a n d the son very young the dece a sed husb a nd s brother should he be the gu a rdi a n either m a rries her himself or sells her to someone else The widow of a Z a kh a Khel Afridi living a t K a r a mn a in the B a z ar Va lley found herself in this unha ppy predic a ment ; she ha d a young son an d a n excee di ngly obj ection a ble brother of her de a d husb a nd to cla im her in m a rri a ge or to di spose Of her for c a sh She therefore took the m a tter into her own h a nds a n d fled to the country of the M ull a g oris a n d m a rried a m an of her o w n choice There is a very strong enmity between the Z a kha Khel a n d the Mull a gori a n d a ll the ye a rs th a t I h a ve ha d the m a n a gement Of the Khyber P a ss a rra ngements I h a ve never known them to be on frien dl y terms with e a ch other Some time before a
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S HOOTIN G
1886 -88
A
STE P FA THER
1 59
fem a les from the house of Ma lik Khw a s Kh a n went to fetch wa ter from the spring at Shipola in the Khyber a n d whilst there were surprised by a b a nd of Mull a gori raiders who c a rried the m off Am ongst the c a ptives w as a wife of the then Kh a n of L al pura an d her sister m a rried to Khwa s Kh a n It took the utmost influence of the Kh a n of L a lpur a w ho ha d then control over the M ull a g oris to secure the rele a se of these l a di es This incident m ay h ave intensifi ed the feud between the two tribes Coming b a ck however to my t ale ; the Mulla gori who m a rried the widow fro m Ka ra mn a ha d no ide a th a t She ha d left a young son on going to him or if he ha d the re c ol lection ha d p a ssed out of hi s mind The son on the other h a nd grew up a n d nourishing hi s wra th looked forwa rd to a meeting with his stepfa ther h a ving t a ken c a re to m a ke himself a cqu a inted with his a ppe a r a nce He w a s in the Khyber Jez a il c hie s a t L a ndi Kot al when one d ay he s aw the m an who ha d m a rried his m other a n d he followed him ri fle in h a nd The Mulla gori seeing th a t he w a s foll owed a sked the young m a n where he w as going a n d in reply the l a tter pointed to a Shinwari vill a ge not very far a wa y The Older m a n w as put Off his gu a rd , a n d a s he w a s p a ssing over so m e rough ground the younger individu al knelt down an d fi red his piece a t Dr a wing out him inflicting a slight flesh wound hi s long Afridi knife the wounded m a n ch a sed the tre a cherous l a d w ho w a s un a ble to relo a d into the Shinwa ri vill a ge whose residents secured both per sons a n d prevented further d am a ge being done The Mul l a gori compla ined th a t without any j ust c a use or re a son the young m a n ha d tried to m urder him close to the Shinwa ri vill a ge H a ving he a rd the ch a rge 187 8 the ,
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1 60
I N TH E K H YRER
on
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the Z a kh a Kh el shouted No c a use or re a son & Did you not wed my mother w ithout my permission The S hi nwa ris took c a re to let one dep a rt a good time before the other so a s to preven t an y further a ttempts on the life of the stepfa ther by his a n ry g stepson The g a tewa y of Fort Al i M a sj i d fa ces due south tow a rds the hills a bove Chor a The g a tewa y is genera lly closed the wicket onl y being kept open a n d the sentry w a lks up a n d down the short p a ss a ge th a t shelters him from the west wind whi ch blows Exa ctly north w ith such violence down the P a ss lies the stupendous Rhot a s R a nge which on the m a p is m a rked over feet The side fa cing Al i Ma sjid rises up in sheer cliffs to feet overhe a d To the n a ked eye there is no p a th visible which c a n t a ke a hum a n being to the highest crest of this ridge When a Viceroy of In di a or other im port a nt person a ge p a id a visit to Ali M a sjid a p a rty of six or seven men of the Khyber Rifles were sent up to thi s crest to hold it a n d ha d to rem a in there until the visitor moved a wa y It w a s a bout the spri ng of 1886 th a t a p a rty of the Khyber Rifles were se a ted on the ground sunn ing themselves b y the g a tewa y of Ali Ma sjid a n d lookin g in the direction of Rhot as The men ha d their own rifles a ll muzzle lo a ders with a few E nfi eld s an d commenced a rg ui ng whether a bullet fi red from a rifle on the top of Rhot a s would re a ch the g a tew ay One s a id to Go up with your rifle to the a nother of the p a rt y & top an d fi re it in thi s di rection an d we sh a l l see where the bullet goes The m an a ddressed took up his fi fle a nd a fter a l a borious cli m b got to the crest The bullet of the first Shot w a s not tra ced The ,
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TH E A
1886 88 -
M
IR S ’
ELEPHAN T
16 1
second by the merest a ccident c a ught one of the lookers on in the forehe a d an d killed him on the spot There w a s no possibility of communic a ting between the two p a rties by voice so when the m a rksm a n c a me down he w a s a stonished to see wh a t he ha d done and more a stonished still to fi n d himself m a de a prisoner S ome of the gu a rd however connived a t his esc a pe a n d he m a n a ged to get a w a y There w a s no occ a sion for this a s there w a s no l a w or rule by which he could h a ve been punished In the spring of 1886 I ha d a rra nged to move our c a mp up to Tor S a pp a r which lies a bout seven or eight miles due north of our enc a mping ground a t L a ndi Kot a l which w a s nomin a lly the Old c a ra v a n ground roofless exposed to the sun a n d r a in a n d storms at a ll se a sons of the ye a r We ha d stopped but a t Tor S a pp a r for two to three weeks in 1884 this visit w a s curt a iled owing to S a rd a r A sl a m Kha n h a ving been selected to go with the Afgh a n Bound a ry Co m mission towa rds Hera t a n d P a nj d e h a n d v a rious p arts of th a t qu a rter of Afgh a nist a n Pesh a wa r is very ple a s a nt up to the end of A pril a n d it is not till a bout the end of the third week in M ay th a t the he a t m a kes a ch a nge to cooler climes necess a ry The Government of In di a ha d sent up a splendi d eleph a nt a s a present for H H the Am ir of Af gh a nist a n a n d shortly a fter its a rriv a l a t Pesh a m a st He w a r the be a st S howed S igns of being m a n a ged to bre a k a w a y from his keeper an d ch a ins a n d ro a med a t l a rge for two or three d a ys until he w a s c a ptured somewhere in Yusufz a i a n d brought b a ck Then his M a h a ut refused to put his foot inside the precincts of Afgh anist a n a n d the Amir s ha d to send post h a ste t o Offi ci a ls a t Pesh a w a r ,
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162
I N THE
KH YBER
on
x
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C a ubul a n d get one or two men down who were a ccustomed to tr a in eleph a nts In a short time these men a rrived a n d the huge a nim a l a ppe a ring to be docil e w a s t a ken up to J a mrud then to L a n di Kot a l a n d m a rched to J el all ab a d where His Highness ha d gone to in Febru a ry to esc a pe the rigours of a winter a t C a ubul On the j ourney the keeper fed the eleph a nt on such qu a ntities of he a ting food th a t the d a y a ft er its a rriv a l a t J el all a b a d the a ni m a l bec a me more m a st th a n ever a n d te a ring through the c a mp destroyed one or two lives a n d c a used a n immense de a l of d a m a ge Some time a fterw a rds I met the A mir s Offi ci a l who ha d been in ch a rge of the p a rty with thi s a nim a l a n d in the most solemn m a nner he a ffi rmed th a t it w a s a mercy of Providence th a t the brute ha d gone m a d the d ay a fter he ha d given up ch a rge of it for if his ins a nity ha d come on twenty four hours e a rlier his he a d mi ght h ave a nswered for the incident Lord Roberts w ho ha d been a ppointed Com m a nder in C hi ef of the Army in Indi a du ring November 1885 vi sited Pesh a w a r thi s spring a n d j ourneyed up to L a ndi Kot al where a fter a d a y s h a lt a trip w a s m a de to P iz g a h As w e were re turni ng to c amp a very violent storm of ra in c a me on an d poured in torrents for hours a n d l a te into the It h a ppened to be a c a r a v a n d a y a n d l a rge ni ght numbers of Ghilz a i Kuchi fa milies were go ing b a ck from Pesh a w a r to their homes in Af gh a ni st a n a n d during the twenty mile m a rch from J a mrud to L a ndi K ot a l in this pelting r a in their women girls a nd The next little chi ldren su ffered very severely morning we returned to Pesh a wa r I w a s gre a tly le for in Lord Roberts I found a a sed a t this trip p .
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164
I N TH E
KHYBER
on
.
x
M a lik Wa lli Muh a mm a d Kh a n and two troopers st a rted a t 4 A M to do this j ourney During the occup a tion of the Khyber by mi lit a ry troops one survey p a rty composed of three comp a nies of regul a rs ( n a tives) ha d c arried on their oper a tions through the Shilm a n an d a second p a rty a ccomp ani ed by a gu a rd of Simil a r strength went through the Mull a gori country I w a s therefore a nxious to see whether the feelings of the residents towa rds us had undergon e a n y ch a nge We were received with a very kin dl y welcome throughout our j ourney In other respects w e ha d a very di stressing d a y as the clouds di s a n d a fi erce sun c a me out a n d a ppe a red by 10 A H be a t down on our he a ds w ith g re at severity Severa l times I di smounted an d di pped my he a d into w a ter wherever it w a s to be found M a lik Afridi Kh a n ha d By 3 P M w e re a ched a slight touch Of he at a poplexy the house of M a lik K amr a n in the Kam Shilm an Va lley a n d took shelter in his g a rden but it w as not till 8 P M th a t we found ourselves b a ck a t Tor S a pp a r The month of September found me a g a in a t Pesh a wa r but I ha d to t a ke Mr Bensley our Civil Engineer to see L a n di Kot a l a n d to a rra nge for the rep a irs to the v a rious posts whi ch were now being c a rried on regul arly every y e a r There ha d a lso been a simil a r provision m a de for the ro a d which w a s now kept in excellent order a lthough the sum s anctioned for twenty fiv e miles Of a ro a d in the hills c a me only to £ 2 00 in English money Our gre a test enemy w a s the flood which swept down the Pa ss a fter every very he avy r a in c arrying a wa y hundreds of ya rds of the ro a dwa y Ag ainst this enemy we ha d no remedy a n d could only exercise p a tience an d begin the work ,
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—
KH YBER C ADET C ORP S
A
1886 88
16 5
f esh The Opposition of the m a liks by thi s time ha d ce a sed M a lik Khwa s Kh a n w a s the only culprit who still c arried out a tortuous policy but only a t r a re interva ls now He m a de one fi n al a ttempt in 1888 f a iled , a n d a fter th a t coll a psed for good The Foreign Secret ary a n d M a j or Ev a ns Gordon went up the P a ss an d rem a ined two nights at L a n di Kot a l Mr ( now Sir S alter) Pyne a lso went through to C a ubul to l ay the found a tion Of H H the Amir s An d so in m any w a ys a rsen a l workshops and progress w a s being m a de in the Khyber In the lines of the 1 s t comp any Khyber Rifles a t L a ndi Kot al there w a s a sm a rt good looking boy of a bout twelve , whose n a me w a s H athi He w a s a n orph a n , who m a de his living by going on err a nds for the men a n d except a sister a bout a ye a r younger th a n himself livin g in one of the Z a kh a Khel h a mlets he ha d no other rel a tive in the whole of He ha d a very h a ndsome t a king f a ce Af ridi l a nd a n d a ll were kind to the orph a n l a d for he seemed then to h a ve no mi schief in him When Lord Roberts c a me up to L a ndi Kot a l for the first time t hi s young m an on his own initi a tive , collected a num ber of young boys tra ined them a ccording to hi s fa shion in presentin g a rms a nd , dividing them into three groups at interva ls on the Khyber Ro a d met the Comm a nder in Chief with a genera l s alute This h a ppy custom thus st a rted by young H a thi w a s a lw a ys c a rried out w hen a ny illustrious visitors j ourneyed up to L a ndi Kot a l When the Khyber Rifles were told off to a tt a ck the Gora Ph a r Hill in the Bl a ck Mount ain expe di tion Of 1888 this young boy who ha d gone through the c amp a ign un a rmed beh a ved in the m ost g a ll a nt m a nner He helped a r
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16 6
IN THE
KH YBER
on
.
x
S a rd a r M A sl a m Kh a n to a scend the hill helping him a t e a ch step Get a wa y boy ; you will be killed w a s the S a rd a r s w a rning to him Never mind if I a m killed y ou c a n throw my body into the ne a rest ra vine replied the l a d an d he stuck to his work a n d a scended th a t terrible hill w i th the best of them The boy never knew wh a t fe a r w a s L a ter on he enlisted in the Khyber Rifles but w a s killed in a br a wl whilst a bsent on le a ve from his corps The period ha d now a rrived when a rra ngements were a bout to be m a de for doing something in the Khyber both a s reg a rds its defence a n d for the purpose of improving its w a ter supply The I n spector — Gener a l of Milit a ry Works a ccomp a nied b y the Superinten di ng Engineer Milit a ry Comm a nd R a w a l Pindi proceeded up to L a ndi Kot a l a n d ha d a c a reful look over the whole pl a te a u m a king most minute ex amin a tion of its defensi v e a c a p a bilities There a re few positions so strong a s the L a ndi Kot a l pl a te a u looking westw a rd in the It w a s from here th a t di rection of Je l all a b a d N a di r Sh a h a dva ncing a t the he a d of a v ictorious strong w a s kept a t b a y for six weeks a rmy enc a mped below L a ndi Kh a n a whilst a j oint force of Afridis a n d Or a kz a is b arred his p a ss a ge through t he Khyber P a ss In these d a ys we a re a pt to compl a in of the di ffi culties th a t a n a rm y will h ave to e x p e rie n c e in the w a y of food tr a nsport if it steps into the l a nd of the Afgh a ns ; but if history is to be credited N a dir Sh a h a dv a ncing from the direction of Persi a a t the he a d of a n a rmy pre s um b l y strong chiefly c a v alry besieged a n d took Hera t He then a dv a nced on C a nd a h a r a n d it took him a full ye a r to conquer th a t strong fortress A move w a s .
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168
I N THE
KH YB ER
on . x
the residents a ch a nce of telling their women to keep a w a y from the pre sence of str a ngers To wh a tever c a use this con tr etemp s w a s due M a cdon a ld ha d to give up the trip a n d c a me a wa y much a nnoyed L a ter on the jirg a a pologised for the rudeness of their young men a n d brought sheep a n d money a s a pe a ce Offering to M a cdon a ld Al l this work in the Khyber a t L a ndi Kot al a n d in the Afri di country ha d to be c a rried out without a ny a id fr om the Government of the P a nj a b a n d if a n y rebuff or stopp a ge occurred one ha d to t a ke it cheer fully a n d a fter exercising p a tience m a ke a nother a ttempt l a ter on An in dividu a l c a lled Khaya s t a Kh a n Of S a rka i one of the Kuki Khel Af ridis ha d received severa l a cts of kindness which he rep a id by interfering with some workm en employed on the wa ter duct ne a r hi s house Either on the d a y of his contum a cious beh a viour or some twenty four hours l a ter he w a s wa lking a bout his fi elds which l ay in the r a vine below his fort T w o of his enemies issued out of Sub a d a r Am ir Kh a n s fo rt which w a s some 6 00 to 7 00 y a rds up the ra vine a n d creeping into the wa ter course dr a gged themselves to within some 4 00 y a rds from Kha ya s t a Kh a n who ha d no ide a of wh a t w a s in store for him T a king aim both rifles cra cked together Khya st a Kh a n fell with a broken leg a n d the women of his family rushing out c a rried him into his house Sub a d a r Amir s men were now in a perilous position They l a y flat in the not very deep w a ter course whilst m a rksmen from Kha ya s t a Kh a n s fort a n d from Ja m sent bul let There they rem a ined until a fter b ul let a t them sunset when d a rkn ess en a bled them to esc a pe L ater on I sh all rel a te how Khayas t a Kh a n w a s .
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QU
1886 - 88
ESTION
OF
W ATER
S UPPL Y
169
revenged I on m y p a rt told him th a t his broken leg w a s a punishment for his b a d conduct a fter h a ving received S O m a ny a cts of kindness from us After this his beh a viour w a s a lwa ys excellent an d in 1889 H E Lord L a nsdowne seeing him a t Al i M a sj id o n the occ a sion of the Vicereg a l visit to the Khyber very kin dl y directed him to be presented with a wooden leg to repl a ce th a t which ha d been a mput a ted In the summer of 1887 the Inspector Genera l of Milit a ry Works Gener a l S a ndford a n d the Super intending Engineer Milit a ry W orks R a wa l Pindi Comm a nd Colonel (now M aj or Genera l) Lovett a n d Colonel R M Stew a rt went up to L a ndi Kot a l with me a n d there w a s a nother long consult a tion over Mr M a cdon a ld a n d w h a t w a s required to be done a nother RE officer were a lso there m a king pl a ns for a fortifi ed ser a i a t the pl a te a u The former offi cer w a s a lso directed to m a ke a c a reful inquiry into the w a ter supply question a t L o a rg i a n d in the Whole of the Khyber R a nge northwa rds towa rds the C a ubul River inclu ding the Shilm a n a n d Mulla gori countries My portion of the duty w a s to see th a t Mr Ma cdon a ld w a s protected whilst busy a t thi s work a n d th a t no friction or unple a s a ntness should occur between the tribesmen a n d ourselves SO fa r a s I co u ld j udge a ll suspicion a s to our intentions ha d dis a ppe a red a n d if we required a nythi ng done a good cle a r a n d true expl a n a tion of our purpose at the commencement w a s a lwa ys implicitly a ccepted Le a ving Mr M a cdon ald a n d his a ssist a nt to do their work a t L a n di Kot a l the other o fficers j ourneyed down to Pesh a w a r a n d the three who ha d come from Siml a a n d R a w al Pindi returned to their st ations .
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17 0
KH YBER
I N TH E
on. x
But a m atter of fa r gre a ter interest w a s n ow to be c arried out a n d I fon dl y believed th a t it would be re a lly a n a ccomplished fa ct On July 12 1887 Mr B a ker Engineer of the N W St a te R a ilwa y c a me to my house a n d expl a ined to me th a t he ha d been busy on the survey of the ra ilwa y extension from Pesh a wa r to J a mrud Commencing at the C a nton ment st a tion the line w a s to be c a rried behind the S a dd a r B a z ar round by the c ava lry lines through the southern portion of the B rig a de P a ra de Ground a n d then going westwa rd would cross the J a mrud ro a d ne a r Burj i H a rri Singh an d so p a ss on to the north of Fo rt J a mrud I m a y s ay tha t fiv e to six surveys from the C a ntonment a n d City st a tions were m a de in a s m a ny ye a rs but on the l a st occ a sion Mr M a ckinnon a ssured me th a t he ha d come to l a y down the line a n d a sked my a ssist a nce in the w ay of escorts He lived for a month or more a t my qu a rters a t Burj i H a rri Singh a n d then suddenly dep arted Nee dl ess to rem a rk the Pesh a wa r J amrud R ail wa y w a s not in existence when the A fri di w a r of 1 8 98 broke out 18 9 7 — A str a nge episode occurred close to my house a n d on the ro a d le a di ng from the cricket ground p a ss ing in front Of the m ilit a ry prison in the direction of I ha d occ a sion to Visit J a mrud an d h a ving M ic hni been out the entire d ay ha d returned l a te in t he eveni ng to Pesh a wa r I ha d not got up very e a rly the next morning but m y a ttend a nt c a lled me s a y ing th a t a rough rider of the b a ttery under comm a nd R A ha d been fi red a t by a Of M a j or Dunn a ge P a th a n on the ro a d whilst exercising his horse Fortun a tely the Gh a zi f a n a tic a lthough he fired two shots missed his aim an d ra n a w a y He w a s how ,
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172
IN THE
KH YBER
on
.
x
on November 2 5 and like a ll such functions w a s an excee di ngly brillia nt a ffa ir represent a tives from a ll the different tribes on the borders of H a z ar a Pesh a w a r Koh a t being in a ttend a nce a n d they were e a ch in turn brought up a n d introduced to Lord D u fi e rin I h a ve often wondered wh a t the tra ns border hill m a n thought of these d a rb a rs an d in wh a t light he considered them when the p a ge a nt w a s over A d a rb a r a s we h ave m a de it a n d as it is and a s it w as understood in old Orient a l Governments a re two d i fferent thi ngs The monotonous present a tions a t l a st c am e to a n end There were two or three l a ughing incidents in the m a rch p a st when the young son Of Muh am m a d Sherif Kh a n the present Kha n of Dir insisted on forcing his gold pieces on the Governor Gener a l Then the Ma dd a Khel jirg a trooping by the Viceroy a ll suddenl y squ a tted down On the c a rpet much to the ch a grin of the Deputy Commissioner w ho w a s in ch a rge of the p arty L a st of a ll the Assist a nt in the Koh a t settlement w ho looked upon his l a rge printed presenta tion c a rd a s a Vicereg a l heirloom to be preserved by his f a mily for a ll time to come a n d to be produced here a ft er a s fa ithful services would a record of his good a n d S hout out for his c a rd ( m ir a ticket) a s we wheeled him into his proper pl a ce in presence of Her M a j esty the Queen E mpress of Indi a s represent a tive his l a st cry being Mira ticket a s he w as pushed out The d a rb a r over the b y the door of the tent crowd soon dispersed when the Viceroy a n d the r nd Offici a ls cle a red out of the gre a t tent a n d the a g only lot who lingered were some hundreds of tra ns border men , whose chap lis or shoes , m a de from the l e a f of the dwarf p alm ha d been t aken off when they ,
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LORD
1886 88 -
VISIT
BU FF ERI N S ’
173
were ushered inside the tent a n d were now j umbled up in a huge he a p where it w a s impossible for a ny in d ividu a l to recognise wh a t re a lly belonged to him Wh a t of course interested me most w a s the Vicereg a l visit to the Khyber which c a me off immedi a tely a fter the d a rb a r The Viceroy an d L a dy Dufferin the Lieuten a nt Governor of the P a nj a b a n d L a dy Lya ll drove in c a rri a ges from Pesh a wa r a s fa r a s Ali Ma sj id Lord Roberts a n d others rode from J a mrud to the middl e of the P a ss Whilst L a dy Dufferin a n d L a dy Ly a ll stopped a t Al i M a sj id to ex a mine the fort the Viceroy a n d the rest of us mounting our horses m a de for L a ndi Kot a l A s I rode on the left of His Excellency the Com m a nder in Chief w ho w a s on the right of the Viceroy s a id to Lord Dufferin W a rburton is most a nxious to h a ve a ro a d m a de from the L a ndi Kot a l pl a te a u which will go through the hills to the north of the Khyber P a ss a n d debouch into the Pesh a wa r Va lley The Viceroy turning to me a sked wh a t wo ul d be the a dv a nt a ges of this ro a d I rep li ed th a t if by a ny misfortune or dis a ster the Af ri di s a ttempted to close the Khyber Pa ss the route from L a ndi Kot al through the Shilm a n a n d Mull a gori country to Pesh a w a r would a lwa ys rem a in open a n d co ul d never be closed a s those two tribe s were fa r too we a k to m a ke a ny a ttempt of the sort An d even if the Khyber P a ss did rem a in Open it would a lwa ys in c a se of w a r westwa rds give us two routes from Pesh a wa r to the L a ndi Kot a l pl a te a u a n d vice c ers d I sh a ll touch upon this ro a d question a g a in when I come to the ye a r 1889 We ha d a bout thirty fiv e riding in this c av a lc a de His Excellency being t a ken to the Genera l s c a mp a t L a n di Kot a l to ,
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I N TH E
KH YBER
OH
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K
h ave a look down tow a rds L a ndi Kh a n a we t hen retr a ced our steps to Al i M a sj id The dust however , w as S O gre a t on the ride up a n d down th a t it w a s h ard to distinguish the fe a tures of the horsemen a s they di smounted a t Al i M a sj id to p a rt a ke Of lunch The Vicereg al c a rri a ge a n d escort turned into the Pesh a wa r Ma ll by the club a s it w as getting d ark It ha d been a ple a s a nt visit w ithout a single b it ch a n d I rej oiced th a t under my gui d a nce a Viceroy of India ha d been a ble to traverse up an d down the whole length of the Khyber welcomed by its people When the Khyber m a lik s ha d the honour of being introduced to Lord Dufferin a t Ali Ma sj id they a sked to be permi tted to see C alcutt a an d some of the wonders of In di a a n d His Excellency promised to a ccede to their request I sh all describe this visit in the next ch a pter .
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176
TOUR
THE
OF THE
friend,
KH YBER M ALI K S
on
.
x 1
K a zi S a ya d Ah m a d Att a ché at the Foreign O ffice who m a de al l the a rr angements for housing my people under hi s roof during their st a y a t C a lcutt a This w a s a n excellent pl a n a s the K a zi w a s a n a tive of Pesh a w a r City a n d understood the l a ngu a ge custom s a n d religious views of his visitors Being a Mussulm a n himself he knew wh at their wa nts were in the w a y of food a nd l a stly he could w a tch a n d be c a reful th a t they s aw no sights during their st a y at C a lcutt a whi ch would bring into odium the white m a n a n d his people I was A ssist a nt Priv a te sheltered by Mr P a ni o t y Secret a ry to H E the Viceroy a gentlem a n of gre a t a bilities w ho ha d held t hi s post under sever a l succes sive Viceroys a n d whose hospit a ble house w a s a lwa ys The situ a tion too suited m e ex a ctly Open to m e Government House w a s close at h and the as Foreign O ffice w as a cross the street a n d the Priv a te Secret ary s o ffi ce w a s in the building occupied by my host A d ay or two a ft er our a rriv al at C a lcutt a there w a s a g a rden p a rty a t Government House a n d the Khyber m a liks were hono ur ed with a n invit a tion H E Lord Dufferin received them with extreme kindness an d m a king c a reful inquiries a ft er their comfort an d he alth introduced them to the Governor of Bom b a y a n d then conducting them person ally to the refreshment tent di rected the t able attend a nts to supply them with ices a n d c a kes I felt som e a nx iety a s to the result Of this a n d a s we were w a lking down I whispered in P a shtu to the Sip a h chief T a ke c a re you do not obj ect to p artaking of a nything th a t is o ffered to you bec ause nothing th a t is obj ection a ble will be presented to you ; for this I will be a nswer ,
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SI GH T SEEING
1888
AT
C AL C U TTA
17 7
ble S a hib replied the Sip a h m a lik if you give us poison a t this j uncture we will e a t it An immense crowd ha d by this time collected round us a n d w a tched the Khyb eris with interest The refreshments over the men a sked pe rmission to s a y their pra yers a n d l a ying their lu ng is down on the ground there a n d then looked in the di rection of Mecc a knelt a n d pra yed During their st a y in C a lcutt a they were t a ken to see every pl a ce a n d obj ect worth V isiting In this w a y a d a y w a s spent a t the Howr a h workshops a nother a t the Mint a third a t the B a nk of Beng a l Then a visit to the sm a ll a rm a n d c a rtridge m a n ufa c tory a t Dum Dum followed by a trip down the river in a l a unch to the Bot a nic a l G a rdens fi nishing Off with a lunch a t the King of O n de s P a l a ce given by his son in l a w The A d m ira l a lso kindly per m it t e d them to see a n English m a n of w a r They were invited by the le a ding Mussulm a ns of C a lcutt a to a grea t fe a st The he a d of the Telegra ph Dep a rt ment receive d them in his p a l a ti a l Offi ces a n d per m it t e d them to send a n d receive a few mess a ges from their friends a n d rel a tions a t Pesh a wa r The fi rst mess a ges were of a hum drum n a ture a n d it seemed to m e a s if the Af ridis thought w e were trying to humbug them There w a s one m a n c a lled Feroz Kh a n M a likdin Khel who a lwa ys looked a s if in gre a t p a in Whenever a sked wh a t w a s the m a tter with him he only a nswered I do not feel well He requested th a t a mess a ge might be sent direct from himself a s king who a t th a t moment were in the telegr a ph Office a t Pesh a wa r The reply c a me a lmost inst a ntly th a t with others his m a tern al uncle M a lik S a rfa ra z Kh a n w a s a t the Ofii c e The ’
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178
THE
TO UR OF
THE
KH YBER MAL IK S
on
x 1
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next mess age w a s H ow is my u ncle n ow ? The a nswer c a me Q uite well n ow ; the fever ha s gone How is your boil ? Thi s mess a ge c a used a muse ment a s well a s extreme surprise The uncle ha d been ill at his home in Chora when the nephew left him on this trip The nephew w a s a lso su ffering from a very p a inful boil a bout which he did not wish to spe a k either to his Af ridi C omp anions or to a n y one An d when the telegra phic mess age from Pesh a w a r reve aled both the uncle s recovery a n d the nephew s di sorder the reput a tion Of the ta r b a rki ( telegra ph) w a s est a blished a t o n c e a n d never doubted a fterwa rds The d ay of our dep a rture c a me a t l a st a n d H E the Viceroy h a ving seen a ll the Khyber m aliks a t a fi n a l interview at Government House we le ft Howra h b y the evening tr a in for Bomb a y Ne a r J ub b ulp ore the m a liks ha d a n a rrow esc a pe the wheel of their c a rri a ge h a ving in some w a y been inj ured j ust before we re a ched th a t st a tion It w a s then 10 P M a n d the c a rri a ge ha d to be t a ken off a nd repla ced by The gu a rd s a id it w a s most lucky th a t a nother the origin a l c a rri a ge ha d not coll a psed or h a lf the How Khyb e ris would h a ve been killed or inj ured ever w e re a ched Bomb a y in the morning without meeting with any more d angerous a dventures a n d pl a ced ourselves under the guid a nce a nd m a n a ge ment Of the l ate Sir Fra nk Sout a r Commissioner of Police A m agnifi cent residence ha d been provided a n d from the roof of this buil di ng my wild men of the Khyber for the fi rst time c a ught a glimpse of the Wh at is th a t S a hi b ? a sked Ma lik Walli sea Muh a m m a d Kh a n , Z a kh a Khel pointing to the oce a n Th at is the K a l a Pa ni [ Tor 0 60 i e ‘
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1 80
THE
TO UR
KH YBER M ALIK S
OF THE
on
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p a ssengers I went to comfort the unh a ppy Afridis for a few minutes but w e were a ll delighted when K a r a chi w a s re a ched a nd w e ha d g l ided into its h a rbour s a fe from a ll furt her tribula tions from the sea We rem a ined four d a y s at K a ra chi a n d the a uthorities kin dl y a llowed the m a liks to see M a nor a Point where they ha d expl a ined to them the system of h a rbour defences by the a gency of sub m arine mines The terrors of the s ea voya ge from Bomb a y to Ka ra chi however were too much for Ol d M a lik Sul t a n Muhamm a d M a lik d e n Khel a n d nothing would induce him to go ne a r the s ea a g a in Y ou m a y k ill m e S a hi b but I will never go ne a r th a t Ka l a P a ni a g a in so he w a s the o nl y one of our p a rty w ho did not see the wonders of Ma nora Point Le a ving K a r a chi by the night tra in we j ourneyed up through Sind a n d by the H a rn a i route a rrived a t Quett a where Sir Robert S a ndem a n m a de us a t home for four d a ys The we a ther w a s dre a dful he a vy snow l a y on the mount a ins a n d the gre a ter p a rt of the Peshin Va lley w a s whi te whi lst a n icy cold wind blew from the direction of the snow covered Khoj ak S a ndem a n ha d served in the Pesh a wa r Va ll ey p ri or to a n d during the Am b eyl a c amp a ign of 186 3 a n d m a ny of the Khyber m a liks were person all y known to him a n d he a sked m a ny questions as to wh a t ha d occurred in their midst a n d towa rds their country during the qu a rter of a century he ha d turned his b a ck on Afridi l a nd We left Quetta on a splen did m orning a n d j ourneying thi s time by the B ol a n r a il Sukkur M ontgomery w a y we re a ched J ac ob a b a d L a hore an d fin ally l a nde d on the pl atform of the Pesh a w a r C antonm ent St a tion N W R on As h Wednesd a y , Febru ary 15 1888 S a rd ar Asl a m Kh an .
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I
1888
N CRED ULIT Y
OF
FRI ENDS
1 81
host of rel ations an d friends of the Af ridi The m a liks m a liks were there to welcome us b a ck were dismissed to their homes at a n e a rly d a te in o rder to vi sit their rel a tions a n d tell them of a ll the wonders a n d stra nge sights they ha d seen in their tour of six weeks through Indi a Some three weeks a ft er thi s Mal ik T ar Muh a mm a d Kh a n returned fro m Chora a n d appe ared in my o ffi ce , looking very gra ve Well h a ve you told your people a ll th a t you h a ve seen ? I a sked him Yes S a hi b but they will not believe a word I tell them so I h a ve stopped a nswering their questions and
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I h a ve described the circumst a nce of the youthful son of Muh amm a d Sherif Kh a n Kh a n of Dir being present at the Vicereg a l d a rb a r held a t Pesh a w a r on November when the l a d wished in hi s childi sh w a y to force his gold pieces upon the Viceroy His fa ther ha d not come into Pesh a wa r upon th a t occ a sion But during the spring of 1888 H H Am ir A bdur R ahm a n Kh a n c a me once more down to J ela ll ab a d to esc a pe the rigours of the C a ubul winter whi ch gene ra lly begins to be exceedingly severe about the month of Febru a ry Muh amm a d Sherif Kh a n a nxious to secure the support of the Government of Afgh a nist a n Or thinking the j ourney would in some w ay b e bene fi c ial to himself moved in to J el all a b a d a n d a ppe a red before His Highness U mra Kh a n of B arwa promptly stopped his return an d in this w a y Muha mm a d Sherif Kha n ha d to come to L a ndi Kot a l a n d m a rch down to J a mrud an d Pesh a wa r to en able him to get b a ck to Sw a t a n d m ake a strike for his country which ha d been secured by the ra p a cious U mra Kh a n Thi s ,
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1 82
L
THE B A C
K MOU NTA IN
CH
EXP EDI TI ON
.
x 1
incident is mentioned merely to show the re a sons o f the Kh a n of Dir coming down the Khyber P a ss The month of August 1888 I a lwa ys reg a rd with speci a l respect a s this w a s the month in which the fortifi ed sera i a t L a ndi Kot a l w a s commenced C a p t a in Ma cdon a ld whose work a t L a ndi Kot a l during the ye a r 188 7 ha s a lre a dy been notifi ed m a de a ll his pl a ns surveys collected a ll his d a t a a n d then went up to Simla to la y them before the Defence Com m itt e e a n d the Inspector Gener a l of Milit a ry Works His progra mme w a s now re ady a n d he w a s comin g down to introduce it H a rdl y w a s it circul a ted a mongst the contr a ctors a t Pesh a w a r th a t works were to be commenced a t the L o arg i pl a te a u when Ma lik Khwa s Kh a n Z a kh a Khel who w a s chief over h a lf the Z a kh a Khel Afri di s a n d ha d a strong fort on t he Khyber Ro a d m a de up his mind to give trouble a n d prevent the works being st a rted He ha d no speci a l obj ection to such works being built a nywhere in t he Khyber provided the y brought some money into his purse an d money he loved beyond everything in thi s world He ha d collected something like to rupees chiefly b y depriving his tribesmen of their sh a re of the Khyber a llowa nces for a series of ye a rs which a llowa nces ha d been p a id to him for distribution to them but the most of which he ha d pl a ced to his own credit His brethren a ccor di ng t o their s a v a ge fa shion ha d worried a n d h a rried us in every direction bec a use they were C he a ted b y their chiefs until a t l a st Ma lik Khw a s Kh a n a n d his riv al fi nding they could not control the a ction of their powerful cl a nsmen in the B a z ar V a lley ha d a sked for their a llow a nces to be h a nded over direct to their own selected trib a l represent a tives a n d then these Z a kh a .
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1 84
B L ACK
TH E
MO UNTA IN
EX P ED I T I ON
on
.
in
chief with his p a rty to combine with him in Opposing the building of the fortifi ed sera i a t L a ndi Kot a l the g a me would be in their h a nds However a t this j unc ture M a lik W a lli Muh a mm a d Kh a n a n d the elders of both Sides rem a ined true to me a n d the works were commenced a n d completed without a hitch On A ugust 7 1888 C a pt a in M a cdon a ld S a rd a r A sl a m Kh a n a n d I j ourneyed up to L a ndi Kot a l a n d pitched our tents ne a r the site where the sera i w a s to be erected It w a s not a site which I should h a ve selected ha d the choice rem a ined entirely in my h a nds There w a s a cemetery to the south a n d a zia ra t with a second gra veya rd to the north of it which necessit a ted reducing the bre a dth of the western portion of the ser a i by a bout fi fty ya rds ; a n d there were other obj ections which should h a ve been considered when choosing this spot for such a b ui ld ing However the selection ha d been m a de a n d w e ha d to c a rry out orders The extent of ground required w a s me a sured Off a n d its v a lue fi xed by the maliks of the L o arg i Shinw a ris a n d the pr ice p a id to the owners C a pt a in Pringle of th e Roya l En gi n ee rs c am e up to do the building whilst C a pt a in M a c don a ld under directions from Siml a w a s to c a rry out o ther speci a l duties a n d wh a t w a s of the highest import a nce both for us a n d the L o arg i pl a te a u to m a ke a survey Of a ro a d from the L andi Kot a l sera i through the Shilm a n a n d Mull a gori countries to the Pesh a w a r District a n d l a y it down S ix feet bro a d At fi rst our work rem a ined a t a st a ndstill from n atur a l c a uses a s there w a s not wa ter in the l a rge t a nk for us to m a ke bricks from a n d secondly our work ha d j ust been st a r ted a t the U llu s Well for bringing down w a ter to our c amp a n d a s this ent a iled l a ying ,
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1 86
THE BL A C
K MOU NTAI N
CH
E XPEDI TI ON
NOW further ch a nges were in store for us
.
x 1
When the B l a ck Mount a in expe di tion ha d been discussed in the Indi a n p a pers a s likely to come o ff during the a utumn of 1888 subsequent to the de a ths Of M a j or Richmond B a t t ye a n d C a pt a in U rmston the corps of Khyber Rifles ha d volunteered for service a n d sub m it t e d their a pplic a tion on June 30 to be employed in the coming c a mp a ign Nothing more w a s he a rd of this a pplic a tion until September 1 6 when a telegr a m w a s received from Siml a di recting 350 men of the Khyber Rifles to be sent to the front Ma j or A sl am Kh a n ha d left on the 1 3t h on a visit to his f a mily in the city of Pesh a w a r an d a wa rning in a ccord a nce with the Siml a telegra m w a s forw a rded to him Ten tents 1 35 men a n d Officers of the Khyber Rifles with 100 mules were required from L a ndi Kot al a n d h a ving m a de the necess a ry selection the men were p a r a ded a n d I a ddressed a few words to them to this e ffect & D O nothing th a t will bring disgr a ce or dis credit ou the Khyber Rifles a n d myself They were then m a rched down the Khy ber P a ss to J a mrud where they were to j oin the rest of the corps selected to c o Opera te with the B ritish a n d n a tive troops On September 2 1 they left Pesh a w a r b y tra in for H a ss a n Abd al a n d m a rched thence to rendez vous a t Ab b ot ab a d Telegra ms were a lso received reg a rding the movements of a B ritish mission from Siml a towa rds C a ubul a n d I w a s a sked to a rr a nge Shinwa ri mules to a ccomp a ny the British a bout o ffi cers from Pesh a wa r westw a rds Just then w a r broke out between H H Amir Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n cousin S a rda r Muh a mm a d Ish a k Kh a n a n d his Governor of Afgh a n Turkest a n when the l a tter s troops were defe a ted a t the b a ttle of Gh a znig a k a n d .
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KH YB ER
THE
1888
RIFLES
1 87
Ish a k Kh a n com pelled t o cross the Oxus took shelter in Russi an limits This unfortun ate w a r Afgh a n a ppro a ching j ourney to a n d the Am ir s Turkest an which he ha d not seen since the spring of 1880 are s aid to h a ve prevented our miss ion going to C a ubul in the ye a r 1888 According t o inform a tion brought down by the C a ubul c a r a v a ns E H Am ir Abdur R a hm a n Kha n left his c a pit al on October 2 5 to m a rch towa rds Ma z a r i Sherif in Afgh a n Turkest a n I w a s compelled to j ourney down from L a ndi Kot a l to Pesh a wa r on October 1 a n d my pla ce w a s t a ken up by my n a tive a ssist a nt Ak b a r Kh a n a s there w a s still a ch a n ce of some friction with the tribesm en However we ha d been exceedingly fortun a te a n d lucky so fa r a n d there w a s no re a son why friction Should come a bout now when every thing w a s m a king such excellent progress During October the c a mp a ign in the Bl a ck Mount a ins pro g res se d a n d both from the p a pers an d letters new s c a me to h a nd th a t the men of the Khyber Rifles ha d beh a ved well in the va rious fi ghts a n d skirmishe s Khund Kunh a r T ha kot a n d Gora phar a t Ab u Colonel Om m a nney Commissioner of the Pesh a w a r Division who w a s with Genera l Sir J M c Qu een in the B l a ck Mount ain expe di tion wrote to me & Your Khyber Rifles h a ve beh a ved a dmir a bly a n d h a ve won the respect a n d confi dence of the Gener a l a n d a ll the troops you m ay well feel proud of the good work done by you in the Khyber in m a n a ging the Afridis so a s to h ave led to their volunteering a n d a cquitting themselves so well But Not a nother incident g a ve me even gre a ter ple a sure a m an of the Khyber Rifles ha d been killed in the ,
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1 88
B L ACK
THE
MO UNTA IN
EX P ED ITION
on
.
in
v a rious fi ghts a n d only fi v e wounded These men were sent down to the hospit a l of the 3ot h P I a t Pesh a wa r a n d when I went to see them an d a sked how they were getting on a n d Whether they were in need of a nything one of them turned round a n d s a id We Khyber Rifles h a ve not disgr a ced you S a hib h a ve we ? This w a s with reference to the little speech I ha d m a de to them a t L a n di Kot a l on September 1 7 when they were being S ent down to j oin their comra des a t J amrud a n d it w as a tre a t to he a r this a n d to know th a t the words ha d been remembered The Khyber Rifles returned to Pesh a wa r on November 2 6 a n d h a lted there o n e d ay a n d under Colonel Omm a n n e y s instructions the Municip a lity of the city of Pesh a w a r supplied them with a dinner A kind thoughtful a c t like this w a s gre a tly appre c ia t e d a n d dr ew the sol di ers to the m a n who ha d considered their comfort a n d welfa re on the ev e of their returning from service to their homes On November 2 8 they went on to J a mrud The following n a tive Offi cers a n d men of the Khyber corps were rewa rded with the Order Of Merit for their services in the Bl a ck Mount a in expe di tion Su b a da r Ma j or Mir Ak b a r Kh an for conspicuous g a lla ntry on the following occ a sions 1 On October 8 1888 a t the a tt a ck on Ab u villa ge Bl a ck Mount a in in h a ving single h a nded ch a rged fi v e or six of the enemy a n d s a ved the life of a wounded Sepoy 2 On October 2 4 1888 a t the a tt a ck on the vil l a ge of Ghori when he w a s the fi rst m a n to enter the vill a ge under a he a vy fire 3 On November 1 1888 a t the c a pture of t he ,
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L ACK MO U NTAIN
1 90
TH E B
EXPED ITI ON
on
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x 1
tt a cks on the re a rgu a rd been the l a st to le a ve his position on e a ch occ a sion a llowing the enemy to c ome to close qu a rters a n d thus secu ring the retire m ent of his men N a ick H a bib for conspicuous g a lla ntry on October 2 8 1888 in the vicinity of Tha kot B l a ck Mount a in Ha z a ra in h a ving w ith three S epoys c a ptured a s a ng a r occupied b y the ene m y Sepoy Akht ar Sh a h for conspicuous g all a ntry on O ctober 8 1888 in h aving in the a tt a ck on the Ab u vill a ge been the fi rst m an to re a ch the Villa ge under a he avy fi re On this occ a sion he w as severely wounded No 2 9 Sepoy Mir Abb a s a n d No 583 Sepoy Aj a r Din for conspicuous g a ll a ntry on November 1 1888 in h aving at the storming of the Ghora phor P a ss Bl a ck Mount a in H a z a r a been the fi rst of the Khyber Rifles to re a ch the crest On the morning of November 2 9 1888 H E the Comm a nder in C hi ef in Indi a with a ll hi s st aff a rrived a t Pesh a w a r but u nf ort un a tely a n a tt a ck of fever comi ng on Lord Roberts w a s un a ble to j ourney to L a n d i Kot a l on December 1 On th a t d a te G ener al s Elles a n d Ch a pm a n a n d s t afi a ccomp a nied by Sir Ch a rles Dilke rode there a n d ex a mined the progress th a t ha d been m a de in c a rrying out the works commenced in the month of August It w a s a gre a t source of s a tisfa ction th a t so much ha d been done under the m a n a gement Of C a pt ain Pringle who ha d besides m a de himself gre a tly liked by the S hi nwa ris of the pl a te a u A few d a ys l ater on December 6 C a pt a in M ac don a ld who ha d returned from the Bl a ck Mount a in e xp edition , w a s desirous of ex a mining the T a ngi a
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1 888
H A W K IN G
A
PART Y
1 91
wa ter supply which is situ a ted a bout two miles a bove K a dd a m In fa ct he wished to go to the s a me S pot to which he w a s j ourneying in 188 7 w ith Af ridi Kh a n when the youngsters of K a dd a m prevented him On this occ a sion a long w a rning w a s given to the Kuki We were Khe l s a s to wh a t our intentions were going to T a ngi an d when the wa ter supply ha d been c a refully inspected by the Engineer offi cer we were to h a ve our lunch on the b a nks of the stre a m a n d then go b a ck towa rds Pesh a wa r through the desert stony pl a in between Burj H a rri Singh a n d the inde pendent Khyber Hills a n d see whether we could not secure a n Ob a ra with the h a wks belonging to S a rd a r A sl a m Kh a n a n d his second in comm a nd A l a rge c a v a lc a de st a rted on this trip consisting of S a rd a r ( now M a j or) M Asl a m Kh a n C a pt a in M a cdon a ld R E C a pt a in Trevor 1 5 t h Sikhs a n d myself with Afridi Kh a n a n escort of a bout fi fty of the Khyber Rifles a n d a few troopers with the haw k s m e n besides some 2 00 of the Kuki Khel elders T a lking a n d la ughing the Whole p a rty re a ched the n a rrow gorge T a ngi through which the uni ted wa ters of the Chora a n d Al i M a sj id stre a ms d a sh before the w a ter is t a ken into irrig a tion ch a nnels a n d distributed into the fi elds of the Kuki Khel s ; but a very la rge proportion sinks into the ground a n d p a ssing under s a nd a n d stone forms a f a ir sized sw a mp some twelve miles down on the Pesh a wa r M ichn i ro a d The ex a min a tion of the ground a n d the discussion with the j irg a a s to wh a t Sho ul d be done with the bed of the stre a m to a ugment its w a ter supply being over lunch w a s di scussed a n d w e prep a red to j ourney b a ck Ou r ro a d to the stony ,
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LA CK MO UNTA IN
192
THE B
EXPED I TI ON
on
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x x
pl ain p a ssed up the right b ank of the ra vine j ust below the V ill age of U ccb a ( Dry) G a gri so p a rting with the Kuk i Khel j irg a we rode up the b a nk a n d j oined our troopers an d the men in ch a rge of t he h a wks A line some 5 00 ya rds bro a d w as fo rmed w e di viding it a t cert a in interv a ls a n d with our fa ces tow ards Pesh a wa r w e st a rted to look out for the bust a rd Just then Ma j or A sl a m Kh a n c a lled out th a t a shot ha d been fi red a t us a s he ha d he a rd the whiz of the bullet Looking at the crest of the high conic a l hill a bove T a ngi from which the shot w a s thought to h ave been fi red t he dist a nce seemed to me ful ly to ya rds We g a ve ch a se a nd fi red som e shot s towa rds the top of the mount ain he a ring which disturb ance all the Kuki Khel jirg a c ame rus hi ng to our a ssist a nce But it w as impossible a n d hopeless to c a pture a n Afri di on a hill top ya rds besides night w a s coming on r apidly an d we a way had to ride twelve miles to re a ch our homes Within two d ays the n ames of two oflen d ers were di sclosed to me both belonging to the vill age of K a dd a m One w a s a son of a very venera ble looking elder M ull a Dost a i by n a me a n d the other w a s his both culprits were l a ds of a ha m s a ya h of eighteen to ni neteen ye a rs of ag e The Kuki Khel j irg a were told th a t in their a ttenda nce a n d presence thi s outr a ge ha d been committed a n d th a t they must punish the o ffenders The j irg a fined Mul l a Dost a i Rs 1 000 an d brought the money in a n d burnt the house of the ha m sa ya h Some months a fterw ards when I h a ppened to be stopping at L a n di Kot al both Mull a D ost ai s son r om the top a d fi the young h h red on us f w o n a m n d a of the hill c ame to see me on a fri endly visit ,
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1 94
THE
S H ILM AN RO UTE
on
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x n
estim a te a n d to reduce this the ro a d w a s to be m a de twelve feet Wide inste a d of fourteen until further funds were a v a il a ble when the a d di tion a l two feet width could be a rr a nged for Colonels Hildebr a nd a n d G a rwood c a me up to Pesh a w a r a n d we j ourne y ed to L a ndi Kot al a ccomp a nied by Ma j or A sl a m Kh a n A fter a short rest there w e tr a velled a long the new ro a d which ha d been m a de by C a pt ain M a cdon a ld with a gr a di ent Of l in 5 0 With the gre a test e a se we w a lked a long this a lignment a cross the L oa rg i pl a te a u a n d dipped into the Ka m Shilm a n Va lley h a lting the fi rst night a t a ruin e d h a mlet between the vill a ges of Ma lik K a mra n a n d M alik J a m a l The second d a y I crossed the D a br a i Kot a l but Colonel Hildebr a nd obj ecting to the numerous zig z a gs th a t ha d to be m a de up a n d down th a t h a teful hill went round the bend over the C a ubul River with his a ssis t a nts the precipices there being too much for me M a j or A sl a m Kh a n a n d I were in c a mp a t Sh a hid Mi a n a when the four offi cers c a me in a n d I could see from their fa ces th a t they ha d fa iled C a pt a in M a cdon a ld s a id to me If we c a nnot fi n d a w a y round by the river they will never s a nction a ro a d with these numerous zig— z a gs over the Dobr a i Kot a l Old M a lik P a pino Of Sh a hid Mi a n a w a s wa tching us with interest a n d his fi n e st a lwa rt son w a s st a nding b y his side I s a id to the boy I will give you a lu n g i worth 3 08 if y ou will S how Ma cdon a ld S a hib a ro a d round th a t hill The l a d s a id he would try a n d P a pino who ha d seen M a cdon a ld repe a tedly Old pl a ce lighted m a tches inside his mouth a n d close his lips fi rmly believed th a t he w a s g ifted with super n a t ura l powers a n d grinned in response to his son s reply I did not like to st a y a n hour longer th a n w a s ,
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RO AD MA KI NG STO PPED
1 889
1 95
ctu a lly necess a ry in this pl a ce bec a use the vill a ge cultiva tion did not look more th a n three or foura cres in extent a n d the old m a n w a s cutting down his b a rley with a n ungrudging h a nd for our horses but w e were compelled to w a it a nother twenty four hours a n d m a ke one more a ttempt to circumvent the hill The next d a y the four Officers m a de a n e a rly st a rt a n d were b a ck in time for lunch a n d from the look on the fa ce Of P a pin o s son I felt sure he ha d succeeded a n d so it proved The third h a lt w a s a t Lw a ra Mi a n a whi ch ha d been twice visited before ; a n d on the fourth d a y which w a s Ma rch we descended into the pl a ins of the Pesh a wa r District The tour ha d commenced on the 1 1t h a n d ended on the 1 9t h With reg a rd to the ro a d so fa r a s I w a s a ble to j udge a fter seeing every portion of it except the quot a a bout a mile in length round the bend of the river it w a s even n ow six to eight feet in width p a ssing through sh a ley hills which rendered the working on them light a n d e a sy ; the gra dient w a s excellent a n d a ll th a t w a s required w a s to incre a se the present width to twelve or fourteen feet to permit tong a s ekk a s a n d country c a rts moving up a n d down Everything w a s re a dy the coolies a va il a ble for c a rrying on the work ; there w a s no friction or trouble with the tribesmen a bout m a king the ro a d through their country or a ppropri a ting l a nd for this purpose a n d a ll t h a t w a s necess a ry w a s for a com m a nd to come directing us to renew Opera tions a n d complete the work which ha d been a lre a dy commenced a n d continued so far with success A comm a nd did come—to st a y a ll further proceedings a n d under this m a n d a te a most useful a n d necess a ry work w a s stopped a n d the a rra ngements for completing the a
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2
1 96
SH ILM AN RO UTE
THE
on . x x x
ro a d sc a ttered to the winds We ha d c ause to regret t his a ct a fterwa rds especi a lly in 189 7 Le a ving J a mrud a t 10 P M on M a y 3 1 1889 M a j or A sla m Kh a n an d I re a ched L a n d i Kot a l at 6 A H the following morning We rode a t a w a lk the whole w a y the d arkness preventing our moving fa ster Our escort consisted of but two troopers a n d t he ride w a s weird in the extreme Arriving a t M a lik Khwa s Kh a n s fort we sent a m a n to Obt a in a drink of wa ter an d soon the in di vidu a l himself roused from his Sleep a ppe a red wi thout a nything on his he a d He a n d his sons ha d committed some outra ge a g a inst a section Of the Z a kh a Khel A fridi s living in the Khyber a n d they ha d turned on him a n d m a de close prisoners of himself a n d hi s fa mily An d for severa l months a fterw a rds when I desired to see the intriguing gentlem a n I ha d to send a p a rty to the opposite S ide to let hi m out except on Tuesda ys an d Frid a ys which were c a r a v a n d a ys a n d then he co ul d j ourney out Of his own a ccord At fi rst I ha d a gre a t d re a d of these fi ghts fe a ring th a t they might interfere with the c a r a v a ns ; but I a ltered my mind on the Let a dvice of a friendl y Shinw a ri chief who s a id them fi ght S a hi b ; they will soon get tired of it a n d a s k you to l a y the stones ( m a ke pe a ce ) between them A n d so it proved The men kept up their use of a rms a n d got expert w ith their rifles but they husb a nded their a mmunition a n d a fter every petty fi ght their deme a nour w a s more concili a tory bec a use money ha d to be m a de a n d s a ved for a fresh supply of a m m uni tion purch a sed from wherever it w a s obt a in a ble The m alik h a ving to supply a ll his own following w a s sometimes a loser to the extent of 3 00 to 4 00 rupees for a couple of d a ys a musement a s his t ag .
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1 98
SH ILM AN ROU TE
TH E
CH
.
x xx
pinion or a sking for a n expl an a tion from those w ho were a ble to give it When the morni ng me a l w a s a nnounced the people di spersed for their food a n d then the regul a r work Of the d ay w a s c a rried out till 5 PM Then c a me a w alk very often to a n d through Vill a ges where a ll the people turned out to welcome us a n d produced cots for our p a rty to rest on Our w a rmest welcome c a me from the children who a lwa ys shouted out the Afgh a n greeting M a y you not be tired when w e a ppro a ched them To which the proper reply w a s M a y you become gre a t or M a y you never be poor If the y s aw our pro cession coming a nywhere ne a r to their Vill a ge or resting on a n y ridge close to their h a mlets the little folk a lwa ys ra n down to meet us A s our a c qu ain t a nce improved we a rra nged little fe a sts for them one a t the time Of going to a n d the other on returning from L a n di Kot a l Two to three hundred childr en chiefly boys ( they would not bring girls over Six to seven ye a rs a wa y from their h a bit a tions) a n d a few l a ssies would be collected a n d twenty Shi llings worth Of n a tive sweets would m a ke them perfectly h a ppy an d ple a se the mothers a t home The lives of the grown u p girls a n d ma rried w o m en a mongst the Shinw a ris might be t a ken a s a s a mple of the customs a n d h a bits a mongst the fa ir sex in the tr a ns border independent l a nd During the eighteen ye a rs I w a s connected with these people in the Kh yber R a nge I h a rdl y spoke to a wom a n on more th a n three or four occ a sions A wom a n or girl a bove ten ye a rs Ol d is never permitted to a ddress a n y m a le not connected with her by rel a tionship A stra nger ha s a lwa ys to be a voided a n d if by a ny ch a nce a wom a n comes a cross one in a n arrow O
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SIII NW A RI
1889
W OMEN
1 99
l a ne or ro a d she gener ally covers up her fa ce a n d st a nds with her b a ck tow a rds him until he ha s p a ssed At L a ndi Kot a l a ll the women living in the vill a ges towa rds our ser a i used to collect in the e a rly morni ng a n d proceed in a body to the hills in the di rection of the B a z ar Va lley a n d rem a in out cut ting gr a ss a n d wood until 3 P M when th ey returned homew a rds If the Shinw a ris were at w a r with the Z a kh a Khel of the B a z ar Va lley which w a s usu a lly the c a se gu a rds a rmed with rifles would go a he a d Of the girls a n d women a n d t a ke up positions most suit These outings were looked a ble for protecting them forw a rd to with gre a t interest a n d a t these fem a le pic nics they pl a yed their n a tion a l g a mes ; but woe betide the m an w ho ventured into their h a unts for then the m a les of the whole tribe ha d to sit in j udgment on the culprit w ho w a s most lucky if he When the e sc a ped with only a he a vy fi n e in money girls a n d women ha d fi nished their work a n d wended their w a y homew a rds with their lo a ds of gra ss a n d wood the gu a rds would follow in re a r of the p a rty until they got out of the hills a n d sep a r a ted for their homes The Shinwa ris would sometimes tire of this gu a rd duty a n d become neglectful a fter being on it for severa l weeks It w a s then th a t the s a va ge Z a kh a who ha d been on the look out for his C h a nce a fter months Of p a tient w a iting would pounce down on the defenceless women a n d c a rry Off some h a lf dozen or m ore If the women got a fa ir st a rt they were more th a n a m a tch for the men in running but the Z a kha s us ua lly a l a rmed them by a displ a y of rifles a n d through fe a r of being fi red a t severa l would a llow themselves to be c a ptured Then the Shin ,
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2 00
TH E
SHILMAN RO UTE
CH
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x xx
w a ri world w a s stirred up a n d ra ised a hue a n d cry but it w a s genera lly too l a te an d m a ny hundreds of good rupees ha d to be p a id ere the Z a kh a Khel rele a sed the c a ptured women On the night of August 3 1 I st a rted b y the midnight tr a in from Pesh a w a r a n d re a ched Siml a a t PM on September 2 a fter a n a bsence Of ne a rly twenty fi ve ye a rs from tha t fa voured hill st a tion The l a st time I went down the ro a d to Ka lka w a s a bout the close Of July 1 8 6 5 My present trip w a s undert a ken with the speci al obj ect of fi nding out whether there w a s a n y prospect of completing t he L oa rg i Shilm a n — Mull a gori ro a d which w a s a lre a dy more th a n one third fi nished Al so to a scert a in the re a son of the inexplic a ble beh a viour of the r a ilwa y a uthorities with reg a rd to the extension of the line from Pesh a w a r to J a mrud wh y S O m a ny surveys ha d been c a rried out in the p a st fi v e or six ye a rs a n d on wh a t grounds a r a ilwa y engineer ha d l a tely been to Pesh a wa r a n d a ssured me th a t he ha d received defi nite a n d fi n a l orders to l a y down the r a ils t o J a mrud but a fter rem a ining a bout fourteen d a y s ha d cle a red a wa y suddenl y without sending me a word in expl a n a tion Of his hurried dep a rture On Sep tember 4 I w a s invited to the Vicereg a l Lodge a n d honoured with a n interview by H E the Viceroy Lord Roberts w a s a lso kind enough to gr a nt me t w o interviews a n d I w a s permitted to discuss the frontier question Al l I could le a rn w a s th a t Lord L a ns downe intended Visiting Pesh aw a r a n d the Khyber a n d th a t a n y m a tters which ha d to b e decided would be settled on the spot a n d th a t I w a s to be in a tten da nce a t Pesh a w a r when His Excellency would m ake the Khyber trip a bout the end of October 1889 ,
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2 02
SH ILMA N RO UTE
THE
OH
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x xx
L ansdowne stood by the wounded m a n s cot m aking inquiries a fter his inj ury I s m at u ll a s a id it w a s nothing an d b a ring his left arm showed His Excel l en cy where t w o bullets ha d a lre a dy left their m arks on him The Viceroy shook the wounded m an by the h and a n d directed th a t every c a re should be t a ken of him The inj ured m an however died on the t hi rd d ay Mounting our horses a st a rt w a s m a de for L a n di Kota l an d on re a ching the Z a kh a Khel Khyber the riv a l fa ctions lined their side of the ro a d a n d respect fully s aluted the represent a tive oi Her Ma j esty the Queen Empress of In di a L a n di Kot a l w a s re a ched a n d the m a liks of the Shinw a ris a n d of Shilm a n were in a ttend a nce to do their S h a re of simil a r duty I then took His Excellen cy t w o miles higher to the point of Pisg a h where a glorious p a nor am a l ay reve a led before us On our left commencing with the lofty pe a k forming the western limits of B ajg al the snowy S a fed Koh extended westw a rds for over one hundred miles To our right w a s the white m a ss of Ka firis t an mount a ins exten di ng northwa rds into a s e a of s n ow c l a d tops representing ranges in T O our right front B aj a w a r a n d tow a rds C hitra l a n d far a w a y below flowed the C a ub ul River p a st the Koh i B e d aul at going west to e a st m a king its no rthern bend a t Ka m D a kk a The da rk a ren a below us w a s the Va lle y of J ela llab a d bounded on the extreme e a st by the Karka t cha R a nge a n d the mount a ins of L a ghm a n I would not willingly h ave m issed this His Excell ency excl a imed in a dm ir a tion of the View Turning b a ck to L a ndi Kot al it w as a good ride of thirteen miles down the P a ss before w e re a ched Ali M a sj id where we found the M a rchioness ’
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GR AND PA RA DE
1889
2 03
of L a nsdowne a ttended by Colonel Om m a nn ey the Commissioner a n d C a pt a in Bra zier Cre a gh After lunch His Excellency went down the line of the Khyber m a liks a n d a sked the n a me a n d history of e a ch Bid ding a dieu to a ll the Vicereg a l p a rty j ourneyed towa rds Pesh a wa r which w a s re a ched a t PM I m a y note th a t a ll the excellent a rr a ngements for their Excellencies Visit to the Khyber were m a de a n d c a rried out by C a pt a in Inglis a n d M a j or A sl a m Kh a n My le a ve ha d not expired a n d a lthough in obedience to orders I ha d to a ttend it w a s merely a s a spect a tor The whole credit Of doing everything th a t helped to m a ke this trip so comfort a ble a n d ple a s a nt for the illustrious V isitors w a s due solely to the exertions of these t w o offi cers a n d the n a tive Ofii c e rs a n d men of the Khyber Rifles A gr a nd p a r a de w a s to be held on the gre a t Brig a de ground f a cing the Khyber Hills a t 11 A M the next d a y ( October a n d His Excellency t he Viceroy ha d kindly expressed a wish to person a lly di stribute the orders of merit to the six men of the Khyber Rifles whose n a mes h a ve a lre a dy been given for their g a ll a nt conduct during the Bl a ck Mount a in expe di tion of 1888 The Khyber Rifles a bout 3 5 0 strong under comm a nd of M aj or A sl a m Kh a n were to t a ke p a rt in the ceremony with the regul a r troops They were dr a wn up on the left of the line in open order when the Viceroy a n d Comm a nder in Chief in Indi a rode on to the ground a n d a fter the usu a l inspection w a s over an d the Governor Genera l with a ll the st a ff ha d t a ken up their positions a t the s a luting point there c a me the m a rch p a st the infa ntry going by in gr a nd comp a nies returning in close column a n d then going p a st a t the double ,
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2 04
TH E
SH ILMAN ROUTE
ox
x xx
.
This w a s the orde a l I dre a ded for the Khyber Rifles in the fa ce of a critic a l a udience for the men ha d ha d no experience of drill of thi s n a ture for being sc a ttered over a length of twenty fi v es mi les an d employed six times i n the week on c a ra v a n duty it w a s di ffi cult if not impossible ever to get a suffi cient number together for orn a ment a l p a ra de movements But the Khyb eris under their g all a nt comm a nder did right well a n d I rej oiced to see them go p a st a s the Regul a rs did in correct dressing a n d di st a nce with he a ds erect an d eyes looking straight b efore An Afridi a ccustomed to we a ring shoes them m a de of the dwa rf p a lm inva ri a bly keeps his eye fi xed on the g round a s he w a lks a n d it requires a good bit of tra ining an d correction to bre a k him of this h a bit After the m a rch p a st the Khyber Rifles were brought b a ck an d h a lted in front of the Viceroy Lord L a nsdowne pinned the Order of Merit to the bre a st of e a ch m an entitled to receive th a t rewa rd for hi s bra very a n d then a ddressed a kin dl y speech to His Excellency the Comm a nder in Chief reg a rding the conduct of the Khybe r corps a n d their service s in the B l a ck Mount a in whi ch Lord Roberts di rected m e to tr a nsl a te to the Comm a nd ant which I did in Persi a n a n d Maj or Asl a m Kh a n repe a ted it in P a shtu By a piece of good luck we ha d been relieved from When the c a se cont a ining the a serious d ilemm a six Orders of Me rit a rrived a t Pesh a wa r it w a s not Opened a n d ex a mined but pl a ced for s a fe keeping in the Pesh a w a r Tre a sury On October 3 0 when Opened we found th a t by some mist a ke no ribbons Here w a s a dilemm a & The p a ra de ha d been sent w a s a t 1 1 A M the next d a y a n d no possible ch a nce ,
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FI GH TING A MONG ST SHI NWARIS
1889
2 05
of purch a sing the ribbon required either a t Pesh a w ar R a wa l Pin di or L a hore Fortun a tely the n a tive orderly offi cer to Sir J Ly all he a ring of the trouble I w a s in , very kin d ly g a ve me enough for my w ants An d nothing would induce a n d relieved m y a nxiety the fin e Old Sikh to a ccept a nything in return for hi s goo dn ess It w a s enough rewa rd for him to know th a t I w as gra teful for his consider a te act Hi s Excellency Lord L a nsdowne w a s the second Viceroy I ha d the honour a n d privilege of t a king through the entire length of the Khyber P a ss withi n a period of two ye a rs The M a rquis a n d Ma rchi oness of L a nsdowne a n d the Comm ander in Chief with their respective st affs , left Pesh aw a r by speci a l tra in on Novem ber 1 and the Lieuten ant Governor P a nj a b with his secret a ries , dep a rted the s a me d a y for L a hore The Vicereg a l p a rty were to h a lt at Attock a n d then go down the Indus in bo a ts a n d do the whole frontier a s far a s Quett a before returning to C a lcutt a Me anwhile , a few d a ys fi ghting a mongst the Shinwa ri s a t L a ndi ‘ i n Kot a l interfered with the work g of the U llu s well ; but this w a s s a tisfa ctorily a rra nged for by our t a king up the question a n d tell ing the people th a t they m ight fi ght if they liked but the working of the well w a s not to be interfered with T hi s order ha d the desired efle c t for in ne a rly every c a se the s a va ge of the independent hill s w a s clever enough to inter rupt our work by his inter trib a l qu a rrel so a s to force us to interfere between them a n d by our influence an d power decide the question which ha d c a used the upro a r A piece of very b a d ne w s c a me to h a nd this m onth , a n d th a t w a s th a t the completion of the ,
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TH E
SHI LMAN RO UTE
CH
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x II
L a ndi Kot a l Shilm a n — Mull a gori ro a d w a s to be shelved for the time being bec a use the Government desired to h a ve fi rst of all a survey c a rried out for a r a ilwa y from Pesh a w a r to the right b ank of the C a ubul River fa cing Fort M ichn i a n d then up the stre a m Within our limits only towa rds D a kka I felt cert a in th a t this ro a d—Which w as of Vit a l impor t a nce for the defence of the L a ndi Kot a l pl a te a u ; a n d which w a s a bsolutely necess a ry whether the C a ubul River r a ilw a y w a s m a de or not—w a s now doomed to be set a side a ltogether a n d so it w a s The months of November a n d December p a ssed a w a y without producing a nything of extr a ordin a ry notice or import ance The new ye a r c a me round a n d it w a s my good fortune to fi n d my n a me in the Honours G a zette a s a Comp anion of the St a r of Indi a I knew to whom my th a nks were chiefly due for this recognition Of my humble services—n amely to his Excellency Lord Roberts Comm a nder in Chief of the Army in Indi a -
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CHAPTER XIII T H E VI SI T OF P RI N C E AL BE RT VI C T OR
IN
the e a rly p a rt of J a nu a ry 1890 rumours re a ched Pesh a wa r th a t there w a s a ch a nce of H H H Prince Al bert Victor Duke of Cl a rence a n d Avond a le visiting the Pesh a wa r Va lley which rum ours bec a me cert a inty on the morning of the 3ot h of th a t month when His Roya l Highness a c c omp a ni ed by Colonel Sir E Br a df ord C a pt a ins Holford E dw ardes a n d others of his suite a rrived at the Pesh a w a r C a ntonment S t a tion of the N W St a te ra ilwa y He w a s received by Colonel Om m an n ey Commissioner of the d ivision the Genera l O fficer comm a n di ng the di strict a n d the le a di ng loc a l o fficia ls Af ter the usu a l form a l intro d u c t ion s H is Roy a l Highness drove with Colonel Om mann e y to the Commissioner s bung a low , where he w a s to st a y during his brief visit of two d a ys There w a s a luncheon a n d g a rden p a rty a fterwa rds a t the Comm issioner s to whi ch the whole world of Pesh a w a r w a s invited a n d went I ha d then the honour of ne a rly a n hour s interview with the Prince who a sked me m a ny m inute questions reg a r ding the a ffa irs of the Khyber P a ss a n d the frontier tribes , telling me th a t it w a s his wish t o go through the P a ss on the following d a y when he a dded I sh a ll h a ve more t ime to enter further into these m a tters Th a t evening the Roya l Irish Regim ent entert a ined .
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2 08
THE
VI SIT
OF PRINC E AL B ERT VI CTOR
on
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J un
His Roy al Highness a n d his St a ff a t dinner ; a n d a lthough the p a rty did not bre ak up until p a st mid night the st art for the Khyber w a s m a de shortly a fter d a yl ight At 6 A H the Prince took his se a t on the Roy al Artillery dra g an d we proceeded to J a mrud Here the Prince ha d a greed to receive a n d decor a te cert a in N ative offi cers who ha d distinguished themselves in the Bl a ck Mount a in expedition The ceremony w as briefly but effectively gone through His Roy a l Highness pinning the med als on the bre a sts of the recipients a n d a fterwa rds m a king a short com h i li m n speech to them w ch I interpreted T hi s r e t a p y a d dr ess from the Prince w a s repe a ted by my deputy Colonel Asl a m Kh an to the whole body of the Khyber Rifles copied into the regiment a l order book a n d The kind a n d a g a in re a d at two sep a r a te p a r a des gra ceful m anner Of His Roya l Highness w a s gre a tly a ppreci a ted an d much t a lked of a fterw a rds by the N a tive officers and men A s it w as considered a dvis able th at the Prince should get through the Pa ss a nd b a ck before sunset we moved on quickly to Al i Ma sj id Thi s w a s not from a ny a pprehension of d a nger from the tribes but the most trying time of the d ay in the Pesh a wa r Va lley being j ust a t sun set when owin g to the ra pid f a ll of t he tem per a ture there is li a bility to sudden chills it w a s only a wise prec a ution t aken for he a lth s s a ke During our progress His Roya l Highness ques t ion e d me frequently desiring me to point out to him a ny fa mous spots in the once dre a ded P a ss He a sked to be shown where the fi ght ha d commenced on November 2 1 187 8 when the troops under Sir S am Browne proceeded to a tt a ck Al i M a sj id This with the position t aken up by the he a vy guns when they ,
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H
AN
1890
ISTORI C S POT
2 09
pened fi re a g a inst the fort w a s shewn to him As we c a me down the ro a d from the Sh a g a i ridge where it fi rst touches the bed of the Ali M a sj id stre a m the sm a ll wa ter mill on the right b a nk fa cing the ro a d w a s a lso pointed out Hundreds of vi sitors p a ss a n d re p a ss this tumbledown Ol d w a ter mill with its two or three stunted mulberry trees without knowing or heedin g th a t it is a spot of historic interest so fa r a s British Indi a a n d Afgh a nist a n a re concerned For it w a s there under those stunted mulberry trees th a t the meeting took pl a ce between C av a g n a ri a s the Envoy of the Viceroy a n d F a iz Muh a mm a d Kh a n Sher Al i s Governor of Ali M a sj id when the request th a t the British mission to C a ubul should be a llowed to a dv a nce w a s refused ; a refu s a l which brought on the w ar with Afgh a nist a n—a w a r which ent a iled the s a crifi ce of so m a ny lives on both sides a n d which c a used an expenditure Of two hundred millions of rupees from the revenues of Indi a It w a s a moment ous meeting a n d C av ag n a ri knowing how gre a t were the issues which hung on every syll a ble of his did a ll th a t t a ct forbe a ra nce a n d courte sy could do to w in over the stubborn represent a tive of the Amir But this w a s not to be You are setting Af ri di s a g a inst A fri dis to c a use s t I ife a n d bloodshed in this country yet you c a ll yourselves friends shouted F a iz Muh a mm a d as he closed the interview a n d decl a red th a t his m a ster w a s prep a red to t a ke the co u se They were not long in coming TW O qu e n c e s months to the very d ay on which th a t interview took pl a ce Ali M a sj id w a s a b a ndoned before the a dv a nce of the British troops F a iz Muh a mm a d a fugitive But s a ddest a n d his m a ster qu a king on his throne of a ll the reminiscences connected with th a t meeting O
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2 10
TH E VISI T OF
PRINCE
ALBERT
V I CTOR CH
.
XII I
is the recollection th a t it w a s the prelude to the tra gedy which closed t he life an d promising c a reer of the bra ve a n d brilli a nt diplom atist Louis C avag n a ri At Al i M a sj id the Prince a n d p a rty h a lted for bre a kf a st a n d w e then st a rted for L a ndi Kot a l a long the n ew ro a d by the cliff intending to return by the the n ar Old route through the bed of the stre a m ro w e s t a n d most be a utiful p a rt of the Khyber P a ss K a tt a Kushti a where the turning movement w a s m a de by the Guides an d l st Sikhs of Genera l M a c p hers o n s Brig a de when a fter a m a rch Of twenty four hours their a ppe a ra nce c a used the ev a cu a tion of Al i M a sjid a n d the sm a ll bend round the rock where some three hundred of the Amir s troops were then m a de prisoners were shown to His Roya l High ness Then p a ssing on to the Zi a ra t of Gu rg urra ( S loe tree) where the Z a kh a Khel bound a ry begins a gu a rd from the tribesmen holding the blockhouse on the right h a nd side—the Prince w a s S hown the lonely S hrine a bout which were he a ped lo a ds of wood a n d other things a ll ungu a rded for no true M u s s u l m a n would think o i ste a ling even a str a w fro m the precincts of a s a cred shrine But the story of this shrine is a curious one T he Z a kh a Khel Afri di s be a r a most unenvi a ble n a me a s being the gre a test thieves ho u sebre a kers robbers a n d ra iders a mongst their word or promise never a ll the Khyber cl a ns being believed or trusted by their Afridi brethren w ithout a subst a nti a l security being t a ken for its fulfi lment N a tur a lly a r a ce so little trusted were not fortun a te enough to possess a holy m an whose tom b would h a ve served a s a s a nctu a ry to swe a r by a n d thus s a ve the necessity of the subst a nti a l security One d a y however a K ak a Khel M ia c ame into their .
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C RE ATING
1890
A
Z
I ARAT
2 11
limits with the Obj ect of seeking s a fe conduct through their territory to the next tribe They received him with a ll politeness but fi nding in the course of con vers a tion th a t he w a s of s a intly ch a r a cter—a holy Ka ka Khel M ia—they c a me to the conclusion th a t he w a s j ust the individu a l wa nted to put their ch a ra cter for truthfulness on a better footing They therefore killed him a n d buried him m a king his tomb a shrine for a ll true believers to reverence and a security for themselves to swe a r by & The Z a kh a Khel chiefs of the present d a y d o not a dmit th a t the holy m a n w a s murdered in the m a nner described but s ay th a t he w a s a tt a cked by some Shinw a ri ra iders a n d died of his wounds However there st a nds the shrine Le a ving it the j ourney through the Pa ss w a s continued At M a lik Kh a n s fort a n d on the ro a d to the south of M a lik Wa lli Muh a mm a d Kh a n s the riv a l fa ctions stood to s a lute a n d welcome His Roy a l Highness The Prince w as p a rticul a rly struck with the three young sons of the l a tter—la ds a ged fi v e seven a n d eleven ye a rs w ho w a lked spoke a n d beh a ved with th a t quiet refi ned dignity which seems inherent in high born Orient a l youths At L a n di Kot a l the Khyber Rifles were formed up a s a gu a rd of honour a n d the Shinw a ri chiefs were presented Here we rested for a short time a n d the Prince m a de me point out to him all the pl a ces of loc a l import a nce or interest He ha d evidently well re a d up the history of the Khyber a n d showed by his intelligent questioning th a t he simply wi shed to be corrected concerning a n y points or det a ils which he w a s not quite cert a in a bout We then rode b a ck to Ali M a sjid t a king the route through the w a tercourse .
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2
21 2
V ISIT
TH E
OF PRIN C E A LB ERT V I CTOR
ox
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x x xx
an d
the n a rrow ch a nnel immedi a tely below the fo rt which I a lwa ys reg a rd a s the fi nest a n d gra ndest p a rt of the P a ss After lunch a n d the present a tion of severa l A fridi m a liks a n d jirg a hs a st a rt w a s a g a in m a de a n d a t sunset w e were a t Pesh a wa r Thus this a nxiously looked for a n d interesting trip of His Roy a l Highness through the Khyber P a s s of such evil fa me of old w a s successfully m a de a nd concluded Th a t evening the Prince dined with the Gener a l a n d st a rted a t midnight by speci a l tr a in for R a w a l Pindi to witness next d a y a gra nd review a nd m a rch p a st of a l l the troops at th a t st a tion I w a s given a se a t in the s a me tr a in a n d my friend Ma lik Wa lli Muh a mm a d Kh a n w ho ha d hurried down from the Khyber in our w a ke went to Pindi by the ord in a ry night tr a in to see the t a m ash a a lso I ha d a good position a t the revi ew c lo s e to the fla g s t a ff—Lord Roberts the C omm a nder in Chief h aving kin dl y c alled me up to the c a rri a ge in which he a n d L a dy Roberts were se a ted ; His Excellency w a s inc a p a cit a ted th a t d a y from mounting a horse owing to a stra in in the leg which he ha d met with tent gging The Prince M u rid ki c a mp of exercise t a e p pl a ced a fter being received with the usu a l s a lute himself on the other side of the Chief s c a rri a ge a n d the m a rch p a st took pla ce At its conclusion it w a s noticed th a t in the sp a ce a llotted to N a tive spect a tors were Muh a mm a d Ayub Kh a n a n d some of the Afgh a n S a rd a rs a n d C hiefs who ha d followed his fortunes a n d who were n ow closely wa tching the sol di ers a g a inst whom they ha d l a tely fought a n d been defe a ted by A few words which I did not he a r p a ssed between His Roy al Highness a nd the Comm a nder in Chief ,
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2 14
THE
VISIT
OF
PRINCE AL B ERT VI C TOR
CH
.
x xxx
everything fa il he ha s been brought to Pindi a n d kept there a s a pensioner of this Government An d now I h a ve seen the future King of Engl a nd a n d ruler of India go forwa rd a n d in my presence a n d sight s a lut e his own c a ptive It w a s a noble a c t 1 It shows th a t you English are fi t to be rulers of thi s country .
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Withi n less th a n two ye a rs a fter this the telegra ph wire fl a shed the fa t a l news to Pesh a w a r tha t Prince Al be rt Victor w a s no more C a rried into the d efile s of the Khyber the s a v a ge residents of th a t r a nge sym p a t his e d too with the Englishmen who mourned H aving seen with their own eyes his kin dl y courteou s deme a nour his fe a rlessness in mixing a mongs t their a n d h a ving he a rd of the incident a rmed throngs a t R a w a l Pindi there w a s g e n uin e re g ret a mongs t my stern unemotion a l wild men a n d the pr a yer Would th a t the Almighty ha d sp a red the Sh a h z a d a w a s echoed by m a ny in an d a bout the Khyber Pa ss .
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2 16
RI VER SU RVE Y
THE C A U BU L
CH
x xv
through their l a nds a n d h a nd him over s a fely to the c a re of the Shilm a n elders when he entered their territory Two hundred men of the Khyber Rifles under comm a n d of one of our best n a tive o fli c e rs Sub a d a r Ghalli—the s a me w ho ha d received the Order of Merit for distinguished br a very on six different occ a sions —were to j oin C a pt a in M a cdon a ld s p a rty a t W a rs a k My a dvice to him w a s under no consider a tion or tempt a tion to cross over to the left b a nk of the C a ubul River or to enter a n y territory belonging to the Government of the A mir A bdur R a hm a n Kh a n bec a use then complic a tions would most cert a inly a rise To enter into the country of the God gr a nted Government or to cross the river to the left b a nk would be foolish It is necess a ry to diverge a little to expl a in the mist a kes th a t followed By the tre a ty of G a n d a m a k S igned on M a y 2 6 18 7 9 by Muh a mm a d Y a kub Kh a n Amir of Af gh a n ist a n on his own p a rt a n d by M a j or P L N on the p a rt of the British Govern C a v a g n ari ment the control of the Khyber a n d M ic hn i P a sses which lie between the Pesh a wa r a n d J el a ll a b a d Dis t ric t s a n d of a ll rel a tions with the independent tribes of the territory connected with these p a sses w a s to be ret a ined in the h a nds of the British Govern ment In a ccord a nce w ith the a bove tre a ty the right b a nk of the C a ubul River from S a ms a i to the spot where it touched the Kh a lil l a nds in the Pesh a wa r District ha d been t a ken over by our Government a n d formed a portion of the Khyber politic a l ch a rge For eleven ye a rs the terms of this tre a ty ha d been fully c a rried out a nd ha d been a ccepted by Y a kub Kh a n when Am ir a n d a fter him ,
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91 18 90—
2 17
TA RA KZA IS A ND H A LI MZAIS
by Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n but n ow two petty sections of the M ohm and s living on the left b ank of the C a ubul River an d w ho h a ve l a rge possessions in the Pesh a w a r District c a me forw a rd to contest our right of a ction both in the Mull a gori a n d the Shilm a n limits on the grounds th a t they ha d a right to S h a re in a ny benefits which might a ccrue from our survey ing for a n d m a king a r a ilwa y up the right b a nk of the C a ubul River within British rights I t m a y further be noted th a t the deep C a ubul stre a m entirely s ep a r a ted these cl a im a nts from the Va lley of Shilm a n a n d the upl a nds of the Mull a gori country These tribes were the T a ra kz a i an d H alim z ai sections of the M o hm a n d s w ho live in the country outside of a n d to the west of the Pesh a wa r District from the C a ubul River to Fort Ab a z a i The T ara kz ais live in the qu a rter due west of Fort M ichn i a n d north of the C a ubul River a n d are presumed to h a ve a n a rmed strength of some men but they h a ve fourteen Vil l a ges w ithin the Pesh a wa r District covering a bout a cres The H alim z a is come n ext with a n a rmed strength of men but they ha ve o nl y one vill a ge of a cres outside their own country in British territory Contr a ry to a ll represent a tions the j irg a s of the T a ra kz ais were fi rst per m it t e d to cross the river a n d a tt a ch themselves to C a pt a in Ma cdon ald s c a mp on the right b a nk with which these people ha d no conce rn To those w ho s a w this procedure in a nother light the best w a y to h a ve prevented the T a ra kz a is from interfering wi th C a pt a in Ma cdon a ld s movement s w a s to h a ve w a rned them th a t if a single S hot w a s fi red from the left shore of the C a ubul River a ll their free gra nts in the fourteen vill a ges would be a tt a ched Or if they ,
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218
C AU B U L
THE
RIV ER S UR VE Y
on
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x IV
desired to show their ze a l they could lo ca te their jirg a on their left b a nk until such time a s the British survey p a rt y on the right b a nk ha d fi nished work a n d p a ssed a w a y from the country f a cing their b a nk For it could not be doubted for a moment th at the T a ra kz a i j I rg a by rem a ining on their own shore were in a better position for controlling the unruly mem bers of their section th a n by crossing a deep ri ver a n d going to the Opposite b a nk C a pt a in M a cdon a ld left Pesha wa r on Febru a ry 7 a n d four d a ys l a ter news c a me to h a nd th a t Mull a h Kh a lil a regul a r fi re bra nd of the Afgh a n w a r of 18 7 8—80 who w a s in receipt of a pension of RS from the Afgh a n Government a n d w a s living in the Mohm a nd country a t this period w a s stirring up the M ohm a n d s to resist the survey p a rty Represen t a tions were a g a in m a de by the Khyber Offi ci a ls th a t the proper w a y to prevent the M ohm a n d s w ho were supposed to be under the Am ir s rule from a tt a cking our p a rty w a s to write to the Sip a h S a l a r a n d expl a in to him the whole posi tion a n d a s k him to do wh a t w a s needful in prevent ing Mull a h Kh a lil a n d his M o hm a n d s from interfering with us in our own country This w a s done l a ter on a fter much del a y but in the me a nwhile there w a s a good de a l of fi ghting between C a pt a in Ma cdon a ld s gu a rd a fter p a ssing the K am Shilm a n ra vine a n d the M ohm a n d s on the other b a nk a n d for ten or eleven d a ys the fi ring from both sides w a s brisk Then the in — order c a me from the Afgh a n Comm a nder— Chief the Mohm and opposition v a nished a t once an d When the fighting w a s a ll over a n d four d a ys a ft er the l a st shot w a s fi red the H a lim z a i jirg a wa lked into C a pt a in Ma cdon a ld s c amp At Pesh a w a r six weeks l a ter these men threw down a t the Deputy Com ,
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THE
C AU B UL
RIVER SU RVEY
CH
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x xv
p a tience a n d some three or four Khyber m a liks were sent out to a rgue with a n d try to bring the young m a n to re a son But when he a ttempted to stop the Pesh a wa r khafil a on the c a ra va n d ay a n d his t a g ra g ha d to be brushed a side by the Khyber Rifle e scort the m a tter a ssumed a different a spect The whole united Khyber j irg a fi ned the Kuki Khel s rupees a n d owing to the const a nt trouble a n d fi ghting a bout the distribution of their a llowa nces ha d it h a nded over in their presence to selected eld e rs representing e a ch section An d in this fa shion this troublesome j ob c a me to a n end ; how troublesome it w a s will be described when I come to the ch a pter on Am i n Kh a n a n d his fi n a l esc a p a de in 18 92 Some 12 0 M ohm a n d s c a me ste althily one night from the vill a ge of L alpur a during April 18 90 a n d tried to S ecure the person of Arm ia Kh a n M a lik of the M a ndez a i Shinwa ris w ho ha d t aken shelter in a Shinw a ri fort at L an di Kot a l j ust below Pisg a h the furthest enclosure in the di rection of Afgh a ni st a n The gu a rd in the fortress not kn owing wh a t this g a ng ha d come for fi red a t a n d ki lled one of the M o hm a n d s on which the rest sc a mpered do w n the hill side A d ay or so l a ter tra vellers coming up from D a kk a a n d L alpura expl a ined w hy a n d for wh a t purpose these M ohm a n d s ha d come into our limits It w a s useless to m a ke an y represent a tions for re d ress On M ay 2 3 1890 Ma j or A sl a m Kha n Mr B a rr a t a ssist a nt engineer a n d I re a ched Tor S a pp a r whi ch w a s to be our home for the next three or four months Tor S a pp a r to my mind w a s a pl a ce of very gre a t It w a s a n a tural hill fortress a dv a nt a ge t o us soldiers ( Europe a ns) with c a p a ble of holding ,
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S IR
R O BE R T
W A R BU R T O N
A ND
L IE U T
COL
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AS L AM
KH A N
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C l E .
2 22
THE
C AUBU L
RI V E R S UR V E Y
CH
.
x xv
presence they had gone a wa y down the Khyber Pa ss to Pesh a wa r an d left us to our own resources Sub a d a r M aj or M a ul a d a d Kh a n w ho ha d n ow retired on a pension from his regim ent the 2 ot h Duke of C onn a ug ht s Own Pa nj ab Infa ntry ha d been with us from the very fi rst d ay of our re a chin g Tor S a pp a r a n d ha d rem ained till the d a y of our dep a rture We ha d our d a ily visitors in m a liks an d j irg a s from the Afridi s Shinwa ris Shilm anis a n d M ull ag oris the l a st three pre d om i n a ting a s w e were ne a rer to their countries We ha d re a ched our summer home for 1890 on M a y 2 3 a n d on the morning of September 15 we m a de our st a rt for the L oargi pl a te a u a n d then d escended into the K a m Shilm a n Va lley a descent of a bout feet a n d h a lted for the night a t the V ill a ge of Ma li k K a mra n This w a s the l a st time we ha d the ple a sure of a ccepting this kind good m a n s hospit alit y for when our p a rty went to Kam Shilm a n a g a in my friend ha d been c arried off by fever He w a s a gre a t loss to me for in all the ye a rs I knew hi m he ha d never once t ried to deceive me a nd wh a t little he ha d to give he bestowed with a generous , ungrudging he a rt a n d for the s a ke of the S a rka r F rom the cold of Tor S a pp ar w e ha d suddenly j umped into the he a t of a confined v alley ; however it w a s very ple a s a nt in the sh a de a n d the nights were cool The next morning w e a scended the D a bra i Hill a n d descended into the Sh a hi d Mi a n a Valley which w a s to be our enc a mping ground for September 16 The D abra i Hill is a nother spot where Europe a ns could be well an d s a fely loc ated for the summer months in a clim a te fa r more suit able for them th a n either the Gullies Murree D a lhousie Siml a ,
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S H AH ID MIANA
1890-91
22 3
Mussoorie or L a n d o u r hill st a tions with which I a m well a cqu a inted Hitherto on a ll previous soj ourns at this dre a dful Sh ahid Mi a n a ( which me a ns the h am let of s pot those who ha d s a crifi ced their lives) our c amp ha d been pitched a longside the ro a d but on this occ a sion he a ring of the excellent sp rin g a bout a mile or more up the r a vine our p a rty went to invest ig a te pending the a rriv a l of our b a gg a ge Wh a t a ch a nge a s w e penetra ted the gorge for som e di st a nce & The hill sides were perfectly green with gra ss and very l a rge trees im port ed from Hindust a n for they did not belong to the Khyber R a nge a bounded showing th a t once upon a time some resident of these hills ha d m a de a good g a rden in this sheltered loc a lity An d wh a t w a s of even gre a ter interest a splendid spring giving g a llons of w a ter d a ily gushed out of the mount a in side The Springs issuing from the mount ains in the Khyber an d T art arra R a nges a re genera lly wa rmer in the a utumn w inter a n d spring se a sons th a n the w aters th a t lie on the surfa ce a n d on this but a ccount the residents n a me them hot springs during the sum mer se a son they a re cold Every drop of this a bund a nt spring s a nk into the s a nds a n d stones a nd flowing underground fell into the wa ters of the C a ubul River a bo ut a mile to the north e a st of Sha hid Mi a n a A very ple a s a nt h alt w a s m a de on the s ide of the r a vine fa cing the spring a nd when our b agg a ge a rrived w e m a de this spot our resting pl a ce for two entire d a ys On S eptember 18 we j ourn eyed to an d enc a mped a t Lw a r a Mi a n a In the tr a ct between these two st a tions there are pl a ce s su it a ble for loc a ting Europe a ns or even more ,
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22 4
C AU BU L
THE
RI VER S URVE Y
an
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x xv
during the hot months with a bund ance of w a ter The b a nd of the Khyber Rifles consisting of Afgh a n pipes a n d drums pl a yed during the d a ys of our S O j ourn for two hours e very a fternoon a n d a ttra cted some 300 l a ds round them whilst the housetops were dott ed with fi gures in bl a ck show ing th a t the Mull a gori l a dFBS were p a rti a l to music On the l a st night there w a s a huge bonfi re which lit up a burlesque perform a nce a ided by the pipes a n d dr ums a n d which l a sted some three hours witnessed by a l arge I expect th a t night of Sep a dmiring a udi ence tember 19 1890 will long be remembered by these simple people of the T a rt arra R a nge The next d a y I went into Pesh a wa r whilst the escort a n d b a nd of the Khyber Rifles m a rched into J a mrud The month of October p a ssed without a nything extr a ordi n a ry t a king pl a ce A l a rge c a mp of exercise w a s a bout to be formed a t Khyrab a d which w e were a s this would give me a a ll looking forw a rd to ch a nce of letting the Khyber m a liks a n d elders see a ll our three a rms a re a lly gr a nd m a rch p a st of in gre a t force His Excellency the Viceroy a n d Governor Genera l ha d kindly given permission to three n a tive Offi cers of the Khyber Rifles to go down to C a lcutt a a t the Government expense a n d I ha d hoped to t a ke privilege le a ve of a bsence a bout the s a me time a n d j ourney with them This le a ve however w a s refused by the P a nj a b Government on the ground th a t my services could not be sp a red B esides Mr O C a ll a g ha n Secret a ry to the Government of Indi a for St a te R a ilwa ys w a s expected very e a rly in November a n d I ha d to t a ke him up to L andi Kot a l a n d then down by the route which Lieuten a nt Colonel Asl a m Kh a n a n d I .
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22 6
TH E
C AU B U L
RI VER SURV EY
CH
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x xv
night there be close to the p a ra de ground a n d see the show next morning I w a s a lso summoned down by His Excellency who desired to see me with reference to his Visi t to L a n di Kot a l a n d Tor S a pp a r The m a rch p a st c a me Off in glorious we a ther Some of the fi nest troops in In di a went by in front of thous a nds of a dmiring spect a tors chiefly collected from the city an d most of the Vill a ges a n d h a mlets of the Pesh a w a r Va lley whilst mingled with them w a s a l a rge contingent from the hills of the inde pendent tribes When I met my Khyb eris a ft er my return from Tor S a pp a r they s a id & S a hib we h a ve seen your British a n d N a tive c a va lry your horse fi eld a n d eleph a nt b a tteries your Europe a n a n d c a n comprehend a ll such a n d n a tive inf a nt ry m a tters of p a r a de a n d m a rch p a st ; but w e c a nnot underst a nd why a l a rge white go a t w a s conducted in front of a B ritish regim ent T his w a s the white h o t of the Roy a l Welsh Fusiliers I a d dined a g with the regiment on St D a vid s night a n d e a ten my leek in proper style a s I stood upon my ch a ir a n d ha d he a rd from the colonel of the g a ll a nt corps the origin of the go a t being connected with the corps but j ust a t th a t moment do wh a t I could the story would not come b a ck to my mind S O in desp a ir I replied Bec a use those men come from a hilly country whose residents a re fond of drinking go a ts milk This stupid story w a s fully cre di ted a n d the men bent their he a ds a n d s a id Now w e under After the p a r a de w a s over I w a s permi tted s t a nd to j ourney in the Chief s speci a l tra in to Pesh a w a r which w a s re a ched on the evening of December 4 The next morning Lord Roberts Gener a l Sir J ames B ro w ne Q u a rterm a ster Gener a l in Indi a left Pesh a ,
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WAR
1890-9 1
C LO UDS
227
with me for Al i M a sm an d by evening w e were in the ser a i a t L a n di Kot a l a n d on the following d ay escorted by two troopers of the Khyber Rifles we rode to Tor S a pp a r On the w a y Sir J a mes Browne turning to His Excellency s a id Here a re the C om m a nder in Chief a n d the Qu a rt erm a ster— Genera l in Indi a with the Politic a l O ffi cer Khyber ri di ng in these hills with a n escort of onl y two troopers If this fa ct w a s repe a ted in Engl a nd or to a n y Offi cers Of the old P a nj a b school they woul d not credit the story The people c a me out in numbers to welcome His Excellency By 6 R M we were b a ck a t Pesh a w a r a n d a t 10 His Excellency w a s j ourneying to R a w a l Pindi en rou te for L a hore a n d C a lcutt a The w a r clouds ha d been collecting for a long time over the Mir a nz a i Va lley a n d S a m a n a a n d n ow a t the close of 1890 the Koh a t Border w a s to t a ste the fruits of the policy which ha s proved dis a strous in Whichever p a rt of the P a nj a b Frontier it ha s been tried—Le th a t of employing mid dl e men to de a l be tween the S a rka r a n d the tribes Of the independent hills In v a in did the l a te Sir John Coke a t one time Deputy Commissioner of Koh a t Obj ect to a B a ng a sh Kh a n being m a de Sub Coll ector of H a ngu a n d the Mir a nz a i Va lley a n d given power to de a l with the hill men a cross the border ; his Views were overruled a n d in 185 4 he resigned his berth a s Deputy Commissioner a n d preferred return ing to t a ke comm a nd of th a t fi n e regiment which I believe he r a ised a n d which is Still known on the Whole of the P anj ab Frontier a s Coke s Rifles An d now thirty seven ye a rs a fterw a rds Muz a ffa r Kh a n Of H a ngu a n d his fi rebr a nd son B a zgul Kh a n ha d to be secured by the P a nj a b Government a n d w ar
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2 28
THE
C AU B U L
RI VER SU RVE Y
CH
.
x 1V
deported to L a hore In the Bl a ck Mount a in fresh complic a tions were expected a n d the Khyber Rifles a g a in volunteered for servi ce The Kh yber m a liks a n d elders knowing th a t I w a s a nxious to go with the corps —not to supersede Lieut Colonel A sl a m Kh a n but to a ssist him in his work— sent in a written a ssur a nce th a t the pe a ce of the P a ss would not be disturbed if I were permitted by G overnment to go with the Khyber Rifles This document w a s forwa rded by me to the Government of the Pa nj a b with a n a pplic a tion from myself but the result w a s a refus a l The three Offi cers of the Khyber Rifles Sub a d a rs M u rs il a n d Muh a mm a d Gha lli a n d J em a d a r Ghol a m Muh a mm a d who ha d been permitted by the Govern ment of In d i a to j ourne y down to C a lcutt a a n d with whom I w a s not a llowed to go returned to Pesh a w a r on J a nu a ry 4 189 1 The Foreign Secret a ry an d the Offi ci a ls a n d people of C a lcutt a ha d been very kind to them The y ha d been t a ken over the mint ra ilwa y works a t Howr a h the B a nk of B eng a l the tele gr a ph Offic e Fort Willi a m m a ny shops &C The A dmir a l s a nctioned their being show n over a m a n o i w ar ; then they j ourneyed down the river in a l a unch s a w the shipping a n d Zoologic a l a n d Horti cul tur a l G a rdens an d l a st of a ll the Viceroy Lord L a nsdowne with th a t kindness of he a rt which a lwa ys m a rks the true gentlem a n very gra ciously a ccorded them a n interview a t Government House a ccepted their humble presents of A fgh a n knives a n d g a ve to e a ch a l a rge silver med a llion with his own a n d L a dy L a nsdowne s profi le engra ved thereon W ith te a rs in their eyes these men rela ted to me the kin dn esses they ha d received from our people a t C a lcutt a One .
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2 30
TH E
C AUB UL
RIV ER S URVE Y
CH
x 1V
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The m a l a dy which c a used this fi n e m a n s de a th could h a ve been cured e a sily if he ha d been t a ken before a n y medic a l Offi cer a t Pesh a wa r on J a nu a ry 3 Inste a d of a dopting this procedure his rel a tions put him on a c a rt a n d r a ttled him a ll the w a y to J a mrud ; then pl a cing him on a cot he w a s c a rried to his house a t Gud a r a n d a s no one there knew wh a t w a s the m a tter with him or wh a t w a s the possible remedy he w a s a llowed to die The month of J a nu a ry 189 1 w a s extremely cold ; he a vy r a in ha d f a llen during the previous week a n d of course this me a nt snow in the Khyber a n d Tir a h R a nges A he a vy f a ll c a me on J a nu a ry 15 an d a t L a n di Kot a l there w a s three feet depth Of snow on the ground It w a s during this inclement we a ther th a t the Mira nz a i fi eld force ha d to a dv a nce an d a scend the S a m a n a R a nge something like feet high to punish the Or a kz a i cl a ns for their b a d beh aviour c a rried on through a long series of ye a rs in pursu I a nce of the policy of our o w n B a ng a sh Kh a ns w a rned a ll the Af ridi m a liks a n d the elders a n d j irg a s of every section a s to wh a t the origin of this qu a rrel w a s a n d with which the y ha d nothing to do I told them th a t if in opposition to m y a dvice the y went to the a ssist a nce of the Ora kz a i cl a ns they wo ul d fi rst of a ll h ave to f a ce Genera l Sir Willi a m Lockh a rt s troops a n d would be shot down secondl y th a t their Khyber a llowa nces would be stopped ; a n d l a stly th a t they would be deb a rred from British territory Mir B a sh a r Gol un d a z Mull a h Idris a ll three men in the p a y of the Amir of Afgh a nist a n a n d a ll the Mull a hs in Tir a h including S a y a d A kb a r A khundz a d a of the Aka Khel s w ho w a s a nswera ble for all the troubles a mongst the Afri di s an d Or a kz a is ’
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A CCIDENT NE AR
1890-91
2 31
A BU
during the ye a r 1897 did their utm ost to induce the Afri di s to combine a n d a id the Or a kz a i cl a ns but with the exception of a bout 2 00 men they all refused ; a n d when Sir W Lockh art ha d m ov e d into the M a muz a i country which is quite close to Afridi Tir a h the Afri di s even then refrained from mixing themselves up in the qu a rrel an d kept their m en in h a nd a n d under proper control within their ow n bounda ry Those w ho believe or put a ny fa ith in the ide a th a t the Forw a rd policy ha d a nything to do with the Afri di rising of 1897 should inquire into the p articul a rs of this Mir a nz a i c a mp a ign of 1891 The Bl a ck Mount ain expe di tion of 1891 w as a lso a bout to com mence a n d the troops w ho were to p a rticip a te in th a t venture were concentrating in the required loc ali ties On Febru a ry 12 some 300 men of the Khyber Rifles under comm a nd of L ieut Colonel Asl a m Kh a n m a rched from J a mrud into Pesh awa r an d a s the we a ther w a s exceedingly cold an d inclement in the Bl a ck Mount a in they were ordered to rem a in a few da ys enc a mped a t Pesh a w a r Thirteen d a ys l a ter on Febru a ry 2 5 the Royal Welsh Fusiliers a n d the Khyber Rifles m a rched out together to sh a re in the vicissitudes of the coming c a mp a ign It w a s a n unl ucky business for the Khyber Rifles in thi s wise On Ma rch 2 1 some eighty of the enemy ha d m a de a bre a stwork on a hi ll ne a r Ab u a n d held it Lieut Colonel A sl a m Kh an with 140 of his men w a s ordered to turn them out H a ving in support 2 00 of the 5 t h Ghu rkha s this w a s e a sily done a n d the enemy were driven o fi a second hill where our men ha d to rem a in for the ni ght On this hi lltop were two very l a rge sheds in which the Bl a ck Mount a ineers put up their c a ttle ,
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2 32
C AU B U L
THE
RIV ER S URVE Y
OH
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x xv
when it r a ined or c ame on to snow One of these huge sheds w a s t a ken up by the Ghurkha s , an d the other h an ded over for the use of the Khyber Rifles Night w a s fa lling a n d it commenced to snow when Lieut Colonel Asl a m Kh a n turned out al l hi s men to collect wood an d light fi res to wa rm themselves There then rem ained inside the shed Asla m Kh a n his three orderlies his horse tied to the centre upright of the buil di ng a guide of the country a n d some doolie be a rers Suddenly the shed c ame down killing the horse four dooli e be a rers the guide a n d wounding two of the orderlies A sl a m Kh a n ha p pened to be st andi ng a t the right corner of the shed bene a th a be am which c a me down slowly dra ggi ng him to the ground but its end resting on a little two foot mud wa ll protected his body from the cert a in de a th which must otherwise h ave bef a llen him It w a s a mira culous esc a pe a n d he w as dug out with some diffi culty Wh a t the weight of the roof w a s m ay be j udged from the f a ct th a t it took twelve hours h a rd work to get the de a d a n d wounded out Asl a m Kh a n w a s c a rried in a doolie to Derbend a n d the Khyber Corps a n d removed to Pesh a wa r were left without an officer to comm a nd them who knew a n d understood their wa ys an d how they should be m a n a ged to produce the best results in a mount a in c amp a ign I ha d been prevented from going even a s a n Ai de to Lieut Colonel Asl a m Kh a n or three a n d my const ant a ppe a ls to Obt a in two Europe a n officers for the Khyber Rifles ha d been entirely ignored ; so here were my people in a n through no un expected an d unfortun a te di lemm a fa ul t of their own The he a dm a n of the Kuki Khel s s till continued to .
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2 34
THE
C AU B UL
RI VER SURVEY
ox
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x xv
towa rds Gud ar a scended the Rhot as Hill withou t being seen by the g a rrison Of Sh a di B a gi ar a hug e hill interveni ng Hi di ng himself behind a rock he wa ited there for severa l hours until he s aw the dog c a rt p a ss below him some 800 ya rds then fi ring three or four S hots he dec a mped a s the Sh a di B a gi a r g a rrison—al a rmed by the fi rst shot —were turni ng out in pursuit The sole Obj ect Of the youth w a s to get the Kuki Khel Afri di s fi ned bec a use they ha d obj ecte d to h a n ding over their a llowa nces to Am in Kh an The Khyber Afridi jirg a fi ned the Kuki Khel s rupees for this business a n d a s Ma lik Am in Kh a n declin ed to come in to receive his sh a re the whole of the Kuki Khel Khyber a llowa nces for a twelvemonth were h a nded over to the jirg a w ho were to divide their own portion a ccording to the distribution list fi xed in 1890 an d to de a l with the m alik s portion For the m a lik ha d been a s it ple a sed them best selected by them an d a ccepted by us Amin Kh a n lingered a t Ja m for some time a ft er this an d then went to N a thi a G a lli to a ppe a l to the Comm is s ion e r ( n ow Sir Rich a rd) U d n y fi n a ll y returnin g to hi s home a t the western limi t of the B a ra Va lley The ye a r 1892 reve a led his ch ar a cter in its true light H a ving secured three months pri vilege le a ve from August 3 1 I st a rted for Siml a a rriving there on September 2 Nothing h a ppened during the next two months but a t the end of October I w a s sum mo u ed to L a hore a s the Lieuten a nt Governor of the P a nj a b desired to see me a n d I a rrived there on the morning of November 5 There were two subj ects which I ha d been const a ntly urging a n d ple a ding The first w a s the necessity of giving me a a bout ,
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KH Y B ER
1890-91
RIFLES C OMMAND
235
B ritish milit a ry officer a s a ssist a nt w ho would l e a rn t he duties in the Khyber on the line s c a rri ed out by me a nd be qu a lifi ed to t a ke m y pl a ce when the tim e c a me for my dep a rt u re The second referred to the comm and of the Khyber Rifles As Asla m Kha n w as a dv a ncing in ye ars a n d his he a lth w as very b a d and a t a ll events a s he would h a ve to retire in t w o ye a rs I strongly recomm ended a Europe a n c a pt a in being m a de comm a nd a nt on his retirement with two Europe a n o ffi cers a s a ssist a nts I pointed out with a ll the a bility I could th a t it w a s a d a ngerous e x p eri m ent pl a cing the comm a nd of a corps like the Khyber Rifles in the h a nds of a n a tive gentlem an of th a t country a nd th a t a lthough we ha d been fortun a te in h avin g secured a n excellent m an in A sl am there w as not a nother n a tive ofiice r of the inf a ntry or c a v al ry I further urged th a t it w ho w a s fi t to t a ke his pl a ce w as utterly impossible for one m an to comm a nd 83 6 men a n d th a t if it w as desir a ble to m a ke the corps which w a s of the best m a teri a l in In dia —thoroughly useful an d efficient there should be a t the very lowest estim a te three Europe a n offi cers with it Further in view of the C a ubul River r a ilw a y being m a de I urged th a t two to three more comp a nies sho ul d be a dded to the Khyber corps a n d a couple of m oun t ain guns be given to it I ha d now the ch a nce of person ally m aking the s a me a ppe a l to Sir J am es Ly a ll a n d did so ag ain to the utmost of m y a bility Wh at the result w a s will be reve a led l a ter on Let the British public an d the P a nj ab Governm ent note What ha s been recomm ended for the Khyber Rifles in 1898 Since m y dep arture from Indi a In every respect it is wh at I ha d been urging for a long series of ye a rs ,
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C
HAPTER XV
AM I N
K H AN S
RI S I N G
’
EVERY Visitor
who ha s s a nc t ion from the Comm a nd ant to enter the inclosure which constitutes the Fort of J amrud should a scend to the Keep where the tele gra ph sign a llers used to h a ve their residence a n d going up the l a st eight or nine steps get to the highest pl a tform of the fortress The View from it will a mply rewa rd him It is a splen did look out especi a lly on a be a utiful winter s d a y Let himturn his b a ck on the Pesh a w a r Va lley a n d look due west tow a rds the mouth of the Khyber defi le in the dirce tion where the sun sets The a ren a immedi a tely below his g a ze bounded on the south by the ra vine which a s it a scends forms the re al Khyber on the west a n d north by a stony profi t l e s s hilly wa ste belongs to the Kuki Khel Afri di s The y own more l a nd tow a rds L a shora S a pri Al i Ma sj id L a l a Chen a a n d in the B a r a Va lley a n d B aj g a l ; but I will limit my observ a tions to the qu a rter I h a ve noticed On the north a n d to j ust three sm a ll h a mlets in it lies Gud a r the birth pl a ce of Sub a d a r M aj or Ma ul a d a d Kh a n with its two sm all forts an d its residents not more th a n eight persons c a p a ble of be a ring a rms A mile south of Guda r a n d a bout three hun dr ed y a rds south of the Khyber Ro a d is S a rk a i There is no mist aking the pl a ce one four w a lled high inclosure ,
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AM IN KHA N S RISING
2 38
CH
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g ive him three m ore in Ap ril 1898
l sps
C a
He
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h al e
and
.
x v
well
.
S u b a d a r A b b as K ha n , S u b a d a r A mir K ha n , S u b a d a r A sa d K ha n , 2 n d P a nj a b Infa ntry , a n d S u b a d a r M aj or M ir A la m K ha n , of the 2 8t h P a nj a b
Infa ntry
The l a st n a med a vetera n of the Chin a a n d Am b e l a c amp a igns a n d of every fi ght up to y 18 95 with his bre a st covered with m ed a ls well a nd fi t for much further ser vice Rissa ld a r K a d d a m K ha n 4 th Beng al C a v a lry w ho w a s sent to Engl a nd to a ttend a t Her M aj esty the Queen Empress s Jubilee in 1897 Jem a d a r Ja la l K ha n a n d three n a tive offi cers of the Khyber Rifles In spite of their fin e soldier like qu a lities an d the f a ct of their h a ving given us such first r ate n a tive the Kuki Khel s of the vill a ges in close o ffi cers proximity to Fort J a mrud were the worst beh a ved The gre a t m aj ority of them were o f a ll the Afridis men who ha d served severa l ye a rs in the army or in the police a n d ha d been compelled to t a ke their d ischa rge a n d return to their ho m es in pursu a nce of vendett a or herit a ge of revenge s ome blood feud which necessit a ted their presence in their own homes o r forts These old soldiers fa irly well a cqu a inted with l a w t a inted the rest a n d a s they knew how fa r they de a l c ould proceed without kicking over the tr a ces ings with them gener ally c a used more trouble th a n working with several times their number of Afridi s belonging to tribes living further a wa y from the Pesh a wa r District These were the men w ho ha d selected Ami n Kh a n a s their represent a tive chief on the de a th of Ab dulla Nur in the e a rly p a rt of 1884 The fi rst ye a r s Khyber a llowa nces seem to h a ve been f airly distributed a bout M ay 1 1884 by Ami n .
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AMI N KHA N
1892
A ND
H YDER KHA N
239
Kha n before the Kuki Khe l s disp ersed a n d migra ted to their ho m es in the B a ra Va lley an d B ajg a l But e ven then it m ust h a ve d a w ned on Am in Kh a n a n d the men who led him a stra y th at if thi s dis t ri b u t ion w a s to be c a rried out every y e a r on the s a me sc a le the trib a l a llowances would go only to the tribe a n d none of the plunder would fa ll to their sh a re a s w a s the c a se in the ti m e of Abdull a Nur during the ye a rs a n d 18 8 3 With this fe a r in View Am in Kh a n tried in 1885 to a ppropri a te a l a rge por tion of wh a t re all y belonged to the tribe a s well a s his m aliki sh a re and a t the s a me tim e he a ttempted to bul ly us into best owing on him the specia l a llow a nce of Rs 15 0 a m onth whi ch ha d been bestowed on Abdul l a Nur for his lifetime only As Am in Kh a n w a s now fully bent on ste a ling a s m uch belonging to the Kuki Khel s a s he possibly c ould they were equ all y determined to C hec km a te his m a n oeuvres a n d looked round to see whom they could pla ce in Opposition to him By selecting a c a p a ble m an they coul d r a lly round an d suppor t him whilst without such a he a d the p arty wo uld fa ll to pieces a t once First of a ll they looked to Ak b a r Kh a n but just a t th a t time there w a s no re a l feud between Akb ar an d Amin a n d on this a ccount Akb a r di d not c a re to end a nger his life a n d spend hi s money in a profit le s s c a use The people then turned to Hyder a n elder brother of Amin Kh a n s a n d for a time Hyder rem ained firm a n d g a ve considera ble trouble to his younger brother So m uch so th a t one evening in the month of Decem ber 1886 when Lord Rosebery w a s going fro m Fort J a mrud up the Khyber Ro a d with Lieut C olonel Asl a m Kh a n Mr Munro Ferguson a n d myself a ccomp a nied by ,
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AM IN KHAN S RISING
2 40
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Kh a n an d a sm a ll escort of c a v a lry we c am e upon Hyder Kh a n m a rching dow n the ro a d with a bout twenty to thirty of his friends a rmed with lo a ded rifles A sl a m Kh an a dv a nced to Hyder Kh a n a n d a ddressing him expl a ined who our p a rty consisted of where w e were going to a n d when w e intended returning In this w a y w e p a rted Hyder Kh a n going on to Ja m with hi s l a rge escort whilst we rode on in the direction of Ali M a sj id I did not m yself believe th a t Hyder Kh a n in our presence would t a ke the l a w into hi s ow n h a nds a n d murder t h a ving usurped his brother on the Khyber Ro a d fo r hi s post whi ch by right he felt b dio n g e d to him self a s the eldest son of Abdull a Nur But Am in Kh a n who w a s thoroughly a l a rmed a n d frightened a t this ren co ntre w a s not going to risk hi s life a second time or to tempt Provi dence a fresh ; so when our c av a lc a de were a bout to retra ce their steps towa rds Fort J a mrud he a sked permission to dep a rt for L a l a Chen a the V ill a ge quite close to Al i Ma sj id where he ha d m a ny friends a mongst t he F a rid Khel Kuki Khels an d in whose comp a ny he felt himself s afe Hyder Kh a n who w a s gre a tly wa nting in c a p a city a n d w a s looked upon a s h a lf witted soon tired of opposing hi s younger a n d more a mbitious brother an d w a s further bought OH with a pension suffi cient to feed himself a nd fa mily so he retired from the contest Amin Kh a n s fortunes would n ow h ave brightened a little ha d he not in a moment of folly cruelly a n d tre a cherously murdered C an d a ha ri brother of Ris s ald ar K a dd a m Kh a n of the 4 th Beng a l C av a lry an d cou s in to Akb a r Kh a n of Ja m Ami n Kh a n a nd Ak b a r Kh a n were both rel a tions belonging to the s am e section Of the Sher Kh an Khel s and Whilst ,
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A MIN KH AN S RISI NG
2 42
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men ha d ventu red into his a bode to murder him a n d th a t he ha d s a ved his ow n life by putting them out of the w a y Wh a tever m a y h a ve been the c a use of this cruel a c t the result in the end w a s f a t a l to Amir who w a s a fi rm a n d devoted a lly of Amin Kh a n s In the vill a ge of K a dd a m which is situ a ted a bout a m ile or less further up the r a vine a n d on the s a me left b a nk the fa ction opposed to Amin Kh a n ha d g a ined the upper h a nd a n d were by fa r the stronger p a rty in th a t loc a lity When the re a l fi ght bet w een A min a n d A kb a r com m enced the l a tter w a s sup ported by S a rka i a n d Kha ya s t a Kh a n s fort whilst Amin Kh a n could onl y rely on Amir whose in closure w a s ne a rly nine hundred y a rds a w a y a n d g a rrisoned by a we a k p a rty of eight persons Wh a t m a de Amir s lot so much h a rder w a s th a t from M a y to December every ye a r Amin Kh a n used to retire to the B a r a V a lley a n d le a ve him a n d his sm a ll g a ng to fi ght the whole co a lition Opposed to them Know ing Sub a d a r Amir s life w a s never s a fe I ha d him t r a nsferred to the Koh a t Border Police a n d a ccepted a pensioned Sub a d a r Muh a mm a d Z a m a n in h is pl a ce In the me a nwhile the enemy comm a nded b y their fi re the north a n d west of his fort a n d by erecting a bre a stwork on the right b a nk of the ra vine fa cing the fort they secured control of the e a stern qu a rter a lso An d S O when Amir Kh a n a n d Sub a d a r M a j or Z a m a n K h a n went on le a ve to their homes the y could only d o the j ourney under cover of the d a rkness of the a n d during the rest Of their st a y they were n ight I Often c lose prisoners inside their ow n inclosure went to see this fi n e Old m a n Sub a d a r M aj or Z am a n Kh a n a t his home a n d he compl a ined bitterly of cursed misfortune th a t ha d l a unched him t he ,
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MURDER
1 892
A MIR KH A N
OF
24 3
into the misera ble feud a n d m a de him a c aptive in his own home for months whenever he returned to it o n le a ve He w a s suffering for Sub a d ar Am ir s folly but the time w a s fa st a ppro a ching when punishment w a s to fa ll on Ami r himself I h a ve alre a dy expl a ined the woun ding of K ha ya s t a Kh a n in a former ch a pter a nd now I will rel a te how Amir c a me to his end Just before the loss o f his leg Kha ya s t a Kh a n rose up e a rly one morning a n d fi el d g l a ss in h a nd c a refully sc a nned his enem y s double towered inclosure It w a s b a rely light a n d yet he coul d see a fi gure under the mul berry tree f a cing the o nl y entra nce the inclosure ha d wa shing hi s h a nds a little outside the cover of the tower w a ll He looked very c a refully a n d in the incre a sing light he discovered the figure to be th a t of his a rch enemy Putting down the fi el d gl a ss a n d t a king Am ir Kh a n up his M a rtini Henry he took a im a n d fi red The bul let j ust touched Amir s be a rd who throwing him self b a ck under cover ha d a n a rrow esc a pe tha t time Inste a d of t a king wa rning Sub a d a r Am ir g a ve up hi s a ppointment in the Koh a t police a n d went to live in his own fort As three sides of it were under control of the fi re of the enemy s rifles he ha d a deep covered w a y dug out to the south of his building with a s q u a re piece of level ground a t the end where he used to go a n d s ay his pra yers without being seen or fi red B ut a t from the three qu a rters held by the enemy in his c a ution he committed one error I went al ong t hi s covered w a y a fter his de a th a n d s a w th a t a m a n st a nding str a ight up w a s perfectly s a fe ; but once you got to the squ a re bit of ground where Am ir s a t a n d s a id his pr a yers no w a ll or cover ha d been r a ised a n d a person w a s fully exposed to the fi re of ,
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R
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2 44
KH AN S RI SIN G
A Ml N
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nyone w ho could get a shot a t hi m from 50 to 3 00 ya rds on the southern side of the inclosure The d ifii c ult y w a s to get to within 5 0 to 300 y a rds of Am ir without being seen a n d discovered by the w a tchmen on the two towers of the buil ding However spies possibly l a dies of Amir s household who were rel a te d to Kha ya s t a Kh an an d A s a d Kha n s fami lies— mus t h a ve re v e a l e d t he conditio n of a ffa irs a n d the want of protection of Am ir s pra yer house One night in the hot we a ther t w o sm a rt men of Khaya s t a Kh a n s side st a rted a t 10 P M a n d took up their position 15 0 to 2 00 ya rds to the south Of the squ a re spot a n d con ce al ed themselves There w a s h a rdl y a ny cover s a ve a stone here or the re a n d the sum mer sun risin g would reve a l to the wa tchmen a ny movement or obj ect of suspicion in th a t qu a rt er The two must h ave kept very close on th a t fe a rful hot summer s d ay exposed to the fi erce r a ys of a tropic a l sun un a ble to move or stir lest their situ a tion should be exposed to the enemy s rifle m en a n d their own wa tch rew a rded by a volley whi ch at such close qu a rters would be cert ain de a th to them Mid d a y two o clock fi v e P M no sign of Ami r Kh a n but just a s the sun w a s dipping down behind the Khyber Hills their p a tient wa tch of twenty hours w a s rew a rded for he c a me through the covered w a y a n d stood on his pra yer ground looking a t the brown burn t p a rched u p hills The two rifles ra ng out a t the s a me moment a n d Sub a d a r Ami r fell de a d Amin Kh a n s a ction from 1884 to 1891 has a lre a dy been recorded in these p a ges He thre a tened a s I h a ve a lre a dy mentioned to fi re on the Lieut Gover nor of the P a nj ab in 1885 if he ventured to j ourney up the Khyber unless Abdull a Nur s speci a l pension a
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A MIN KHA N S RISING
246
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There were numbers of others in the v a rious section s of the Afridi a n d Ora kz a i cla ns but the a bove thre e were c a lled by the Afri di s m a u z oo n s men who were permitted to pre a ch a n d give a dvice a t the gre a t g a therings held a t the mosque of B a gh every Frid a y S a y a d Ak b a r w a s young in ye a rs a v a ricious a n d energetic but his whole energy w a s spent in tryin g to force the Sip a hs to h a nd over to his tribe the Ak a Khe l s a sh a re of their Khyber a llow a nce He w a s a lso bribed by M a lik Sher Muh a mm a d Sip a h to forc e the Sip ahs to let him distribute their a llow a nces —two me a sures th a t I opposed might a n d m a in H is w a ys did not ple a se the A fridis The M a likdin Khel Mull a h w a s a n Ol d God fe a ring m a n full of good an d highly loved a n d respected a dvice to others The K a mb a r Khel Mull a h w a s of lesser note but he Irrespective Of the re a l Mull a hs a lso w a s not V icious there were in every mosque throughou t Afridi a n d Or a kz a i l a nd during the summer se a son three or fou r t a li b e ( religious s t u d e n t s ) v a g ra n t r a sc a ls who lived on ch a rity who never did a n honest d a y s work a n d w ho were a t the bottom of every mischief th at required h a tching or circul a ting These men used to collec t a t B a gh in hundreds every week to s a y their Frid a y s pra yers Presuming th a t the Mull a hs wi shed to secure a n Afridi rising a g a inst the B ritish Government thi s w a s how the pl a n w a s a rra nged a n d c a rried out A notice w a s circul a ted inviting a ll the A fridi cl a n s to a ttend a t B a gh on a cert a in Frid a y to s a y their pr a yers On the d a y fi xed jirg a s from a ll the sec tions of the A fridis possibly to the number of three to four thous a nd men would a ttend a n d a fterthe usu a l pr a yers ha d been s a id the business which ha d brought them together would be entered into Now a mongs t ’
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TRO U BLE
I NTRI GU E A ND
1892
247
P a th a n tribes a m a n s de a dl iest enemie s a re those cousins outside his ow n fa mily who a re heirs to his l a nded property The Mull a hs h a ving di scussed the subj ect would a s k if a ll were a greed to a dopt a n a ggressive policy a g a inst the B ritish Govern ment If a strong p a rty w a s Opposed to fi ghting a s w a s the c a se during the Mir a nz a i expe di tions the subj ect w a s dropped a t once ; but if only one indi vidu a l obj ected the Mull a hs would c a ll him a wa h abi a n d invite his cousins a n d the t a li b s to burn down his house He w a s thus forced to a cquiesce a ll a n d the s a me procedure w a s a dopted tow a rds until complete un a nimity prev a iled From 1884 to 1 892 Amin Kh a n ha d done his best to get the Mull a hs to secure a n Afridi rising but so fa r a ll his exertions B ut in 1889 his brother ha d ended in f a ilure Z am a n K ha n t o ok service with Sip a h S a l a r Ghol a m Hyder Kh a n the Amir s Comm a nder ih Chi ef in the Jel a ll a b a d District a n d a fresh item of disturb a nce w a s a dded to the fi re b ra n d s a lre a dy a t work a mongst the Kuki Khel s M a y 1 1892 a rrived a n d in a ccord a nce with orders received h a lf the m a liki a llow a nce w a s given to Ami n Kh a n a n d h a lf to Akb a r Kh a n a n d the trib a l di stribution a rr a nged for in 1 890 w a s c a rried out Everything w a s going on extremely well w hen on M a y 6 Z am a n Kh a n brother of Am in w ho ha d received a n a dv a nce Of Rs from the Sip a h S a l a r a n d Obt a ined le a ve of a bsence from A sm a r in B a j a w a r re a ched Pesh a w a r with 100 men His presence produced a lot of intrigue a n d trouble but the j irg a s insisted on seeing their orders c a rried out a n d the Kuki Kh e l s were di smissed to their homes There w a s a fter this one secret meeting a t the house
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A M I N KH A N S RISIN G
248
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Khw a s Kh a n in the Cit y of Pesh a wa r at which were present the follo w ing m aliks & Khwa s Kh a n Z a kh a Khel Feroz Kha n M a likdin Khel Sher Muh a mm a d Sip a h a n d Amin Kh a n Kuki Khel Wh a t p a ssed a t the interview no one would reve a l but when these four men c a me out an d Am in Kh a n went a w a y Kh w a s Kh a n w a s he a rd to s a y & We h a ve given him a long pole to cross a deep stre a m a n d he will either p a ss over in s a fety or drown in the venture On M a y 2 4 Lieut Colonel A sl a m Kh a n a n d I went up to L a ndi Kot a l where we found Mr T a ylor C E h a rd a t work over the T a ngi wa ter By this time Am in Kh a n a n d the B a j g a l s upply Kuk i Khe l s ha d re a ched their homes Amin Kh a n a t once set to work a g a in to win the Mull a hs over to his c a use a n d this time he spent his c a sh freely His fi rst venture w a s to w a yl a y m y d a k c a rried by two men Of the Khyber Rifles T he a ttempt w a s m a de a t 1 0 P M ne a r Fort M a ud by some fi fteen of hi s fol lowers They secured the snider of one of the escort but the other m a n fi ring his piece into the thick of the g a ng helped his comr a de to esc a pe with him towa rds Fort Ma ud s a ving his o w n rifle a n d the m a il b a g which w a s sent up in the morning to L a ndi Kot a l with a report of wh a t ha d occurred Another sm a ll r a i di ng p a rty w a s sent by Amin Kh a n down the B a ra Va lley towa rds the Ak a Khel m a ira but by this time news c a me to me a s to wh a t w a s going on in Tira h a n d every d a y I w a s kept fully informed Kh a n s a ction The d a k w a s then a s to Amin brought up by d a y in pl a ce of a t night ; the g a rri sons of Sh a di B a gi a r Fort M a ud a n d Ali M a sjid were incre a sed a n d w a ter vessels provided for them The Mull a h of the M a likdin Khel s w a s written to Of
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A MI N K
2 50
HA N S ’
RISING
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ing the Pesh a wa r District who w a s then a t Chera t Th a t d a y t w o comp a nies of the 14 th Sikhs were sent to J a mrud a n d the next d a y two fi eld guns under a n escort of two comp a nies of the Ro y a l Scots Fusili ers a rrived l a te a t On July 4 which w a s a night Mond a y so m e 2 00 men of the M u ll a g oris summoned by me c a me to my a id At mid d a y the Kuki Khel j irg a belonging to the vill a ges round a bout Fort J a mrud w a s co llected a n d posts a ssigned to them a n d they were sent Off to secure a n d hold them Those told Off for Sh a di B a gi a r Jeh a ngir a a n d Fort Ma ud re a ched their posts before the a tt a ck w a s developed Close upon sunset men were seen in l a rge numbers c a rrying fl a gs 0 11 the high hilltop to the left of the Khyber Ro a d wa ving their Swords whilst the r a ttle Of musketry told th a t the three posts held b y the Kh yber Rifles a n d Kuki Khel Soon a reddish gl a re a llies were being a tt a cked a rose in the d irection of the Khyber which incre a sed in intensit y a s the night grew d a rker there being n o moon T he fi re which w a s a l a rge one kept on till the e a rly hours of the morning Lying down on a cot in the Open ground w e tried to secure some rest a s our m a rch w a s to comme n ce a t 4 A M a n d I w a s we a ried out with eighteen hours a nxiety a n d work July 5 w a s a Tuesd a y a n d the Muh a mm a da n festiv a l of the B a kr a I d h the holiest in their c a lend a r a n d besides it w a s our c a ra v a n d a y a n d Amin Kh a n ha d vowed th a t on this d a y he would close the Khyber Ro a d A s I w a s a bout to get up a t 4 A M Ris s a ld a r K a dd a m Kh a n c a me a n d Whispered in my e ar th a t he ha d he a rd c a su a lly th a t Amin Kh a n ha d fled but the news w a s too good to be relied upon SO we .
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A MIN KH A N S RETREA T
251
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1892
dv a nced with the Khyber Rifles in skirmishing order with our sm a ll force re a dy for a ny contingency Fortun a tely the news brought down to K a dd a m Kh a n w a s correct We found Amin Kh a n a n d his g athering ha d re ally gone When w e got to the spot where the p a thwa y turns on the left to Fort M a ud we s a w the m ischief which ha d been c a used by the a tt a ck Two l a rge outhouses to the south of the fort ha d been burnt a n d entirely destroyed Within three to fou r y a rds of the wa lls we found bundles of gra ss sc a ttered here a n d there which showed beyond an y doubt wh a t the fa te of the fort would h a ve been ha d the Mull a h la s hka r got in If the Kuki Khel a n d other Af ridis ha d a tt a cked on the a fter noon oi the 3 rd or on the morning of the 4 th of July nothing could h a ve s a ved the three posts Of Sh a di B a gi a r Jeh a ngir a a n d Fort M a ud Their c a pture a n d c on fl a g rat ion would h a ve cre a ted so gre a t a mor a l impression th a t there would h a ve been a cert a inty of Al i M a sj id a n d L a n di Kot a l then su ffering the f a te th a t befell them a fterw a rds in 189 7 For it m ust b e remembered th a t the bitterness reg arding the o cc u p a tio u of the S a m a n a the incre a se of the s a lt t ax the influence of Am in Kha n s money the a ction of the three m aliks in a ssisting him an d our utter u n prep a re d ness were fa ctors of fa r gre a ter import a nce in 1892 th a n they were fi v e ye a rs l a ter Fortun a tely Am in Kh a n a tt a cked a t sunset a n d in the d arknes s he w as repulsed He a n d hi s brother Z a m an Kh a n , were wa tching the fi ght from a m ound j ust ne a r J ehangira Just a fter the repulse news re a ched him th at M a lik Ya r M uh a mm a d Kh a n , of Chora ha d secured a ll Amin Kh a n s Hindus with the mules bringing down supplies for his la s hka r He a ls o
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A MIN K HA N S RISING
2 52
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le a rnt th a t w e were a dv a ncing in the morning These three events combined induced him a n d his g a thering to m a ke a retrogr a de m ovement to Tira h a n d they never stopped once the retre a t commenced until they re a ched their homes P a ssing the c a ra v a n on to Al i M a sj id w e turned b a ck to Fort J a mrud a s a ll d a nger w a s p a st a n d o u r Z a kh a Khel a llies were holding the ridge by Al i M a sj id whilst the Khyber Rifles occupied the fort It m ay be c a lled a Providenti a l esc a pe At the s a me time I fi rmly believe th a t the Afridi la s hka r a s in 18 7 9 onl y w a nted a good excuse to get b a ck to their c ountry and ha d no desire or wish to fi ght the British Government B y this time the Commissioner ha d a rri ved a t Pesh a wa r from his summer home a t N a thi a G a lli a n d the Gener a l a n d his A A G ha d hurried down from Cher a t ; a t the confere n ce held a t the former s house Sir Henry Collett M a j or D a vies a n d I strongly a dvoc a ted a ssisting the Khyber Rifles with regul a r troops if the posts in the Khyber were ever a tt a cked a g a in Am in Kh a n w a s deprived of the h a lf m a liki which ha d rem a ined to him a n d h aving spent a ll his a ccumul a ted we a lth in this one plunge he lost his prestige with his defe a t an d w a s un a ble to do a n y further mischief B ut this result might h a ve been secured eight ye a rs before if the P a nj a b a uthorities ha d only understood th a t a n Af ridi m a lik w a s not a B a luch T u m a n d ar On July 8 Lieut Colonel A sl a m Kh a n a n d I re turned to L a ndi Kot a l The Europe a n troops a n d guns were then withdr a wn to Pesh a w a r a n d the Sikhs B y th a t time a ll d a nger w a s over an d a week l a ter .
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2 54
A
KH AN S RISING
MI N
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but they declined to h a nd them over to a nyone e xcept myself On A ugust 3 1 twenty t w o Sip a hs a rmed excellently a ppe a red L a ndi Kot a l a n d at delivered over the t w o rifles About 1 A H on the morni ng of September 1 some four or fi ve shots were fir ed a t the g a te of the ser a i where I slept At da wn I le a rnt th a t twenty fi v e Kuki Khel s he a ded by Am in Kh a n ha d given ch a se to the Sipa hs a n d fi nding them too strong to t a ckle ha d revenged themselves by fi ring at the iron bound doors of the ser a i On their flight to L a ndi Kh a n a they ha d exch a nged shots in the d a rkn ess with the g a rrison o f Fort Tytler There w a s no further a nx iety a bout Am in Kh a n bec a use a t the close of July a ll the Khyber m a liks a n d j irg a s ha d sworn to support us a g a inst Am in Kh a n a n d every Mull a h in Tira h The word of the j irg a w a s far more reli a ble th a n the o a ths of the three deceiving m a liks w ho ha d led the Kuki Khel We rem a ined a t Am in Kh a n to hi s destruction L a ndi Kot a l till October 2 8 a n d during the months subsequent to July 4 when the Afri di s a tt a cked the three Khyber posts the a ttitude of the people towa rds us bec a me more friendly every d a y An y t hing we w a nted either o n beh a lf of Government or of ourselves w a s cheerfully gra nted Even English m a rried offi cers c ame up a n d took their wive s to see Tor — S a pp a r a n d enj oyed the rides over the pl a te a u His Excellency the Comm a nder ih Chief ha d expressed a wish for Mr Spenser Wilkinson to be a llowed to see a s much of the Khyber a s he c a red t o inspect a n d in c a rrying out Lord Rob ert s s w ish Mr Wilkinson j ourneyed with me to L a ndi Kot a l on December 5 an d w e ha d the ple a sure of the society -
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P OI SONOU S
1892
FE VER
AT
PES H AW AR
255
lso of Mr Joseph W a lton now M P for B a rnsley Division W R Y orks w ho ha d a rrived at Pesh a w a r A fter w ith the intention of seeing the frontier inspecting everythi ng especi a lly the J el all ab a d Va lley from Pisg a h which reve a ls fully the wonderful excel lence of the L oa rgi position we returned to Pesh a wa r The Pesh a w a r District ha d been m ore th a n usu a lly u nh e a lthy th a t se a son a n d w a s now thre a tened with description Of poisonous fever which ha d been a de a dl y some twenty ye a rs before It commenced to r a in on July 2 9 1892 a n d poured incess a ntly for sixteen to seventeen d a y s ; this turn ed the v a lle y into swa mp an d the he a t Of the sun f a lling on this a cre a ted a mi a sm a which proved fa t a l to m a ny Euro pe a ns a s well a s to n a tives Of the di strict Thi s extr a ordin a ry unhe a lthiness extended to the skirts of the surrounding mount a ins a n d w a s fa t a l even to sever a l resident s of L a ndi Kot a l which I reg a rd a s one of the he a lthi est pl a ces I h a ve ever lived a t a n d this a fter m a ny ye a rs experience Of the loc a lity L ord a n d L a dy Robert s a n d fa mily c a me up to Pesh a wa r an d Lord Roberts a ccomp a nied by his son the Hon Frederick Robert s a n d by his eldest d a ughter p a id his fa rewell v isit to Ali Ma sj id He ha d for eight ye a rs t a ken the gre atest interest in the Khyber Pa ss an d ha d a lw a ys given his strongest support to a ny me a sure th a t benefi ted our hold on the Khyber R a nge a n d ha d a ided a ny m e a sure likely to produce a good underst a nding with its residents The n a me of Lord Robert s will alwa ys be cherished a n d loved by the N a tive a rmy a n d by the peoples of Indi a The Kuki Khel s g a ve no further trouble Settling their a ffa irs an d re a lising a ll the fi nes due on a ccount a
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A MIN KH AN S RISING
2 56
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of Amin Kh a n s misdeeds I went on two ye a rs le ave from M a y 1 1 1893 The represent a tions th a t I ha d m a de for ye a rs to be a llowed a mi lit ary Offi cer a s a ssist a nt w ho would le a rn the work in the Kh y ber a n d c a rry on the duties on the s a me grounds th a t I ha d been working on a n d who would t a ke m y pl a c e on my dep a rture ha d not been successful Sir J a me s Lya ll in November a n d a g a in in December 189 1 ha d f a ithfully promised me th a t he would support my a pplic a tion for a milit a ry a ssist a nt but th a t the question of a ppointing a c a pt a in a n d two lieuten a nts to the Khyber Rifles wo ul d be deferred until such time a s Lieuten a nt Colonel A sl a m Kh a n me a nt to retire on pension The documents went to Engl a nd an d the a ppointment of my a ssist a nt w a s a pproved of by the Secret a ry of St a te for Indi a an d the fi l e But it w a s sent b a ck to Indi a some time in 1892 w a s not till April 1 5 189 3 th a t C a pt a in C Minchin j oined the Khyber st a ff a t Pesh a w a r M a ny v a lu a ble ye a rs ha d been wa sted in securing this a ppointment but a s C a pt ain Minchin w a s new to the work he w a s not put in politic a l ch a rge Of the Khyber when I took my dep a rture ’
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CHAPTER XVI ON L E A VE
IN
I ND I A
1893 —1894
BEF ORE
giving over my Khyber ch a rge I wrote a courteous letter to the Priv a te Secret a ry of the Lieu ten a nt Governor of the P a nj a b expl a ining the pro c e d u re th a t ha d been a dopte d tow a rds me whi ch ha d ent a iled gre a t loss in p ay to one not over blessed with the world s riches a n d I a sked him to bring my letter to the notice of Sir Dennis Fitzp a trick I ret a ined a copy Of this document a n d h a ve it now but no reply w a s ever sent or vouchs a fed to me A furlough income of Rs 7 00 a month or £5 4 0 a ye a r service did not permit Of a fter t hi rty t w o ye a rs my going with my fa mily to Europe a s I wa nted to do so w e m a de up our minds to spend the summer months a t Murree a n d ret u rn for the Winter to Pesh a w a r where a mongst Old scenes a n d Ol d friends the quiet a n d rest which I w a s in se a rch of might be secured On the evening of our dep a rture the ra ilwa y st a tion sw a rmed with Afridi s who ha d come to bid me fa rewell It w a s h a rd p a rting with people with whom I ha d been in d a ily touch for eleven ye a rs ; still there w a s the consol a tion th a t in fi ve months w e should be b a ck in Pesh a w a r a n d th a t the twenty t w o weeks would quickly p a ss a w a y when these old a cqu a int a nces a n d friends would be seen a g a in With this e a rnest hope a nd ,
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258
ON
LEAV E
kind good— bye to our
I NDI A
IN
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people a n d a Khod a H a fi z a n d S a l am to the dwellers in the v a lley a n d on the independent hills our tr a in ste a med out of the Pesh a w a r st a tion Murree I a m devotedly a tt a ched to a n d fond of It lies thirty eight miles from R a wa l Pindi a n d c a n be re a ched in fi v e to six hours by Mr D a n j e b o y s excellent tong a service St a rting from Pesh a w a r by the evening tra in I h a ve dismounted from the tong a e a rly next morning on the ro a d to K a shmir which p a ssed bene a th my g a rden To Mr D a nj e b o y I a m indebted for m a ny a cts of courtes y during our of twenty three ye a rs H aving a cqu a int a nceship seen Murree D a lhousie Siml a Mussoorie L a n d ou r the p a lm for be a ut y of scenery m u st in my humble be given to the fi rst With y our he a d Opinion qu a rters a t the rooms ne a r the tong a offi ces imme d ia t e l y below the club you could a rr a nge for tours into K a shmir or to the Gullies en rou te to A b b ot ab a d or to Th a ndi a ni a n d nothing could be more enj oy a ble Or glorious th a n those trips through the be a utiful Gullies before a n d a fter the ra iny se a son House Owners w ho ha d to m a ke their incomes b y letting their houses a n d merch ants w ho ha d to secure their g a ins by s a le of goods bemo a ned the d a y when the P a nj a b Government removed its summer se a t to Siml a a n d Mr D a n je b oy opened out his tong a service tow a rds K a shmir Former visitors to Murree were then dra wn a w a y to Siml a a n d Srin a g a r ; but in my Opini on thi s w a s a g a in to Murree by pre venting it from being overcrowded One dra wb a ck to Murree ho w ever w a s its red cl a y soil into which y ou s a nk when the he a vy r a ins were on but which when dry bec a me a s h a rd a s iron The
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ON LEAV E
2 60 Of
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the P a nj a b Government th a t I w a s to give up a ye a r of my furlough a n d return to my Khyber ch a rge on M a y 1 1 1894 It w a s the l a st se a son of Lord L a nsdowne s Viceroya lt y a n d there w a s univers a l sorrow a n d regret a t the prospect of his a n d L a dy L a nsdowne s a ppro a ching dep a rture from Indi a in the coming spring C a lcutt a would still h a ve them for the winter se a son but it w a s a fa r cry to C a lcutt a from Pesh a w a r I w a s b a ck a t Murree by 6 A M on Wednesd a y November 1 The j ourney by tong a from R a w a l Pin di w a s very cold especi a lly a s one w a s clothed in g a rments suit a ble for K a lk a L a hore R a wa l Pindi a n d not for a hill st a tion feet high ; besides the wind blowing down the Murree R a w a l Pindi ro a d a bout 3 A M on a November morning told severely a s the tong a m a de its w a y r a pidly up hill A few d a ys to p a ck up a n d desp a tch boxes to R a w a l Pindi m a de us re a dy for our return to the Pesh a wa r Va ll ey We experienced a n exceedingly severe shock of e a rthqu a ke which c a me on a bout on the morning of Sund a y November 5 a n d the m a rvel w a s th a t no d a m a ge w a s c a used to the stone built w a lls of the house or to a ny of the houses in the st a tion The we a ther in the sunshine w a s delightful but exceedingly cold in Kuld a nn a Cott a ge which fa cing the K a shmir Hills ha s a northern a spect a n d is in no w a y protected from the wind which blows in the winter se a son from the snow covered mount a ins We found th a t no a mount Of wood fi res would w a rm the rooms S O it w a s with considera ble s a tisfa ction th a t we stepped into our tong a on November l oth A M on the 1 2 t h h a ving a n d re a ched Pesh a w a r a t m a de one d a y s h a lt a t R a w a l Pindi to permit our ,
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G O VERNMENT
1893 -94
STORES B URNT
261
serv a nts a n d he a vy lugg a ge to come up with us a n d j ourney in our tra in westwa rds The v a lley ha d in no Wise ch a nged since our dep a rture but the he a lth of the troops w a s much better th a n it ha d been twelve months before there h aving been little fever in 189 3 Owing to some c a use or other the v a lu a ble stores collected a t the mobilis a tion g O downs Of the 1 s t A rmy Corps loc a ted to the e a st of the city st a tion were burnt down a fe w d a y s before m y return involving a loss to Government of something like It w a s never discovered ho w the fi re origi wh ether it w a s due to a ccident or w a s the h a ted h a n di work of some person or persons who ha d something to g a in by the destruction of these com .
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The Dur a nd mission a rrived a t Pesh a wa r from C a ubul on November 2 2 Sir Mortimer a n d Sur geon Lieut Colonel Fenn left the s a me d a y a n d the rest of the p a rty moved a wa y on the 2 3rd except C a pt a in M a nners Smith who rem a ined behind to squ a re up a ccounts The mission Offi cers were full Of the kind w a y in which they ha d been tre a ted by the Amir Abdur R a hm a n a n d one of them w ho ha d seen him in 1880 a n d a g a in in 1884 a n d for the third time in 1893 a ssured me th a t the Amir w a s now a ch a nged m a n to wh a t he w a s some thirteen ye a rs before Th a t this mission ha d m a de Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n h a ppy a n d cle a red a w a y from his mind a ll suspicions w a s good news a n d w e a ll hoped th a t it might turn out to be true in the end a lthough there were one or t w o disbelievers in Indi a who were not quite so s a nguine Imm edi a tely a fter my return to Pesh a w a r a ll my .
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262
ON
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Khyber friends c a me d a ily to see me but some of them were under the i m pression th a t I w a s bound to interfere in cert a in m a tters which ha d been c a rried out during my a bsence To these com pl a ints I never a ttended a ssuring them th a t wh a tever ha d been done by the o ffi cer a cting for me I could not possibly interfere with whether it coincided with my ow n views or not During my brief a bsence severa l ch a nges ha d t a ken pl a ce M a lik Amin Kh a n whose hostility to the B ritish Government commencing with the spring of 1 884 culmin a ted in the expedi tion from Tir a h to close the Khyber in 189 2 which ended in his ruin a n d the depriv a tion of his m a liki ha d been p a rdoned a n d w a s to get b a ck the h a lf chieft a inship which he ha d been in possession of a t the end of M ay 189 2 I w a s w a rned not to interfere with this resolution in a n y A mi n Kh a n w a s to be introduced to me before w ay I retook ch a rge on M a y 11 1894 The procedure w a s str a nge a n d in no w a y likely to bene fi t Govern ment still a s it ha d been decided to c a rry out this step without a sking or consulting me there w a s nothing to do but to Obey orders T he trouble would in the immedi a te present come on my shoulders but in the future it would h a ve to be c a rried by the P a n Government a n d those w ho ha d given this a dvice a b j On Febru a ry 2 2 1894 M a lik Akb a r Kh a n Kuki Khel w a s shot a s he w a s s a ying his pr a yers a t his mosque inside the inclosure of his house The miscre ant who committed this a c t w a s a ne a r rel a tion one of the four sons of a m a n whose house a dj oined Akb a r Kh a n s a n d whose fa mily ha d been a ided a n d a ssisted by hi m with a rms a n d money a g a inst a powerful riv a l Akb ar Kh a n I regret to s a y died from the ,
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ON LEA V E
26 4
IN
I NDI A
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the spot ploughed up Only t w o of the fa mily J em a d ar Jel a l Kh a n a n d his brother Chen a r esc a ped a n d they ha d to go to the other side of the vill a ge a n d cl a im shelter from the f a ction w ho ha d been inimic a l to their f a ther Ahm a d Sh a h during his life a n d to the whole f amily a fter his de a th On April 9 189 4 Mr a n d Mrs Clements an d son Mr a n d Mrs Ma rtin two l a dy doctors a n d p a rty went to J a mrud intending to j ourne y westw a rds t ow a rds the c a pit a l of Afgh a nist a n This w a s the fi rst time since the d a ys of L a dy M a c n a g ht en L a dy S a le a n d the d a rk period of 184 1—4 2 th a t a ny English l a dies ha d ventured to a ttempt this j ourney I went to Siml a to spend the l a st month of my ye a r s le a ve a n d took up my f a mil y with me le a ving Pesh a wa r on April 1 3 a n d a rriving a t Siml a two d a ys l a ter I ha d a meeting with Sir M Dur a nd on the 1 6 t h During my st a y a t Siml a I w a s presented to the new Viceroy the E a rl of Elgin My fi rst a ppe a r a nce a t a l ev ee in Indi a w a s a t Government House C a lcutt a in November 18 6 2 when his fa ther There w a s no w a s Vicero y a n d Governor Gener a l o ffi ci a l mention m a de of a n y Vicereg a l Visit to the frontier during the a ppro a ching Winter se a son there w a s every a lthough Lord Elgin s a id th a t prospect—n ay a lmost cert a inty—of his p a ying a visit to D h a rms a l a where his fa ther lies buried From wh a t I w a s told b y his st a ff it seemed th a t a frontier tour ha d been di scussed a t the Vicereg a l Lodge a lthough nothing ha d been definitely resolved upon I ha d a couple of meetings with a n d m a de the a cqu a int a nce of Mr B a bington Smith Priv a te Secret a ry to the Governor Gener a l .
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L oss OF P A Y
1893 -94
There w a s some uncert a inty a bout the d a te on which the P a nj a b Government desired me to resum e my a ppoint m ent in the Khyber However, not hi n g c a me in the w ay of a ltering my form er pl a ns a n d so le aving Siml a on the morning of M ay 7 I w a s a ble to re a ch Pesh a wa r on the 9th a nd begin work on the forenoon of the 11t h h a ving been a bsent ex a ctly one ye a r on le a ve in Indi a During my short st a y a t Siml a in September a n d October 189 3 I ha d seen Mr F a nsh a we Secret a ry to the Pa nj ab Government a n d when bro a ching the subj ect of my being per m itt e d to gi ve up a ye a r of my le a ve a n d return to duty I a sked him to represent to Sir D Fitzp a trick th a t I w a s losing a very gre a t de a l in p a y by rem a in ing on in the Khyber a n d if my m an a gement Of the P a ss ha d been a successful one could he not b e induced to recommend a n increment ? The S ecre t a ry replied th a t he would bring the m a tter to t he n otice of the Lieut Governor who would consult the Commissioner Mr U dn y on the subj ect Thi s decision soon c ame I w a s told th a t my request ha d been neg a tived A min Kh a n Kuki Khel who ha d come into Pesh a w a r w as introduced to me by Mr C G H a s tings C I E ( who ha d been Offici a ting for me during the previous twelve m onths) a t his house a n d such portion of the Government orders th a t were necess a ry th a t he should kn ow were expl ained t o him by Mr H a stings He w a s p a rtic ul a rly wa rned not to g o ne a r Ja m in coming to or going a wa y from Pesh a wa r S a rd a r H a b ib ulla Kh a n— who w a s the eldest son of the Amir an d ha d been spending Febru a ry M a rch a n d April in the J el a ll ab a d District —now resolved t o return to C a ubul , a s his presence w as required there .
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in c a rrying out some urgent soci al St a te religious ceremonies ; a n d the Sip a h S a l a r w ho ha d been to see His Highness on cert a in Offici a l m a tters pos s ib l y the coming Mohm a nd B a j a w a r dem a rc a tion retra ced his steps towa rds his comm a nd T he month of M a y p a ssed a n d beyond he a ring rumours of w h a t w a s going on in E a stern Afgh a nist a n —which rumours were c a rried down by men belonging to the b i weekly c a r a v a ns or by informers sent by us to gle a n inform a tion —nothing w a s known for cert a in a s to the feeling a mongst the B aj a w a ris a n d M ohm a n d s reg a rding the new dem a rc a tion On our side the Com missioner of Pesh a w a r Mr (now Sir Rich a rd) U d n y who ha d been a ppointed a s he a d of this Mohm a nd B a j a w a r B ound a ry Commission ha d S igned a n d circula ted a procl a m a tion d a ted the 7t h of the Muh a mm a d a n month of Zu l hij j a h 1 3 11 June 12 1 894 a tr a nsl a tion of which is herewith given ,
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t r tr t r r tr r ry B r it is h G o v r nm n t n d
ib e s in ha b i in g B aja w ari, M o hm a n d , a n d o he o w a d s t he I n d ia n E m p i e , f o m t he C a ub u l t he s ou he n lim i of C hi al , f o m t he b o un d a
a ll
c ou n
r
U d n y, C o m m is s ion e an d S up e P e s ha w a D i i s ion
r
To
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try t
t
e e a pon b e twe e n t he r of Afg hanis t an ( 1 ) Whe r e a s c e rt ain qu e s t ion s w ere rais e d r e g a r d in g t he b ou n d a ry b e t w een Afg han i s t an a n d I n d i a a n d a s H H t he Am ir a s w e ll a s t he I n d ia n G o v e r nm en t d es i r e d t o ha v e t hes e qu e s t ion s d isp o s ed of in a n a m ic ab le a n d frie nd ly m a nn e r so t ha t for t he fu t ure t he r e m ay n ot b e a d iffere n ce o f opin i o n a n d t hou g ht re g ard in g t he a b ov e m a t t er b e t w e e n thes e t w o king d om s w ho ha v e tr e atie s an d e n g a g em e nt s T he G ove r n m en t of Gre a t B r i t a in b etw een t hem s e lves wit h t he c ons ent of H H t he Am ir of Afg hanis t a n d urin g
lin e n o w t he Am i
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268
LE A VE
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I NDI A
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x vx
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p t o Ku n e , a n d a t a d is a n c e o f a fe w E n g li s h m ile s f o m t he b a n k Of t he Ku n e R i e F rom o w a d s B a a w ar j K un e t he b o u n d a l in e g o e s s o u hw a d s , a n d , a kin g a b en d a sc e n d s t he hill s c l o s e t o S a a l a S ar, w hich hill s d i id e t he w a e s he d b e w e e n t he Ku n e a n d P a n j k o a Ri e s F om S a a l a S ar t he b ou n d a l in e p a s s e s o e t he c e s o f t he hill , on o n e s i d e Of w h1c h t he w a e s fl ow in g f o m t he D a g H ill s fa ll in o t he P a n j k o a R i er, w hil s t he w a e s o n t he o he s id e , p a s s in g hro u g h t he S a a l a V a ll e , fa ll in t o t he C au b u l Ri e An d in t he c e n e o f his hill lie s t he Ko a l o f S a a l a T he e x e m e e n d o f t he b o u n d a o u c he s t he C a u b u l R i e in t he V i c i n i of P ol o si ( 6 ) F o m a e ie w o f t he a b o e d e a il s yo u w ill un d e r s an d ha ih a dd i io n t o t he co u n ie s w a e e d b y t he Ku n er Ri e w hic h lie o w a d s t he lim i s o f t he I n d i an D om in io n s , H H t he Am i ha s a gre e d n o t t o in e fe e in a ll ha t c o u n t he e a s e n w a e s o f w h1c h fa ll in o t he P a n j -ko a Ri e ; n o r t o in e fe e o r s e c h his h a n d in ha ua e o f t he t he w a e s o f w hic h fa l l in o t he C a u b u l M o hm a n d c ou n R i e b e l ow P o l o s i
u
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v r ty r r v v t t t t t tr tr v r t r t r t r r t try tr t r t r v r t r r tr t t t q rt r try tr t v r u t yo u r fu t u r co r s an d r l ti n ( 7 ) On t hi l ly w it h t h B r it h G v r n m e n t a n d hip w ill li on e l d I h v ho p t h t b y d g r t h r w ill b t h nd f fr i d hip b t w n you on t h o n p a rt b on d s m f t h B r it i h G v r n m n t d t he fr o t i r ffi r m y lf i t d b t w n t h s id t h o t h r p rt w hich h r d th r trib w h r id u t d t h lim t f t he o ffi t f th P h w r D i t b ou n d a r i t t ha t you hou ld fi r m ly b li ve ( 8) Th l a t r q v ry u r n e d ti s a n d o n t hi p oi t I w il l g iv yo f t i on t h t t h G v r n m n t o i I n d i ha n in t e t i n o f h y w i ch fo r m t h p r sen t b u n d r i e s n d t h se l im i t i b o o g g n d t h t i t has d r t o m i it lf o f t h I d i n E m pir ff ir s o f you r ou try W r itt en on ny w y w it h t h n .
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Z u l hijj a h 13 11
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Ju n e
-
an
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sa
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12 ,
This procl a m a tion written in the Persi a n l a ngu a ge a n d ch a r a cter a n d S igned R U d n y w a s distributed a cross the British border a mongst the tribes concerned ,
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1893 -94
MIR
OFFENDED
26 9
imm ediately the f a ct bec a me known the Sip a h S al a r issued orders an d sent messengers to h a ve all the copies secured an d brought to him an d they were either destroyed or sent on to the Am ir a t C a ubul T hi s inform ation w a s conveyed from the Mohm and country and it w a s hinted th a t the Amir a n d the S ip ah S al ar were very much ofi en d e d at such a document h aving been c ircul a ted a mongst the Amir s people a t a time when a British mission w a s going a s a guest of His Highness into his dominions a n d w a s to be escorted by his troops a n d Comm a nder ih — Chief over the country to be mutu ally dem a rc a ted B ut like a ll rumours coming from Afgh a nist an no one ha d the me a ns of proving this one to be a ltogether correct Why should the Amir a n d his C om m a nder in Chief h a ve reve a led such thoughts if they ever ent ert a ined them to the common public of A fgh a nist an At the commence m ent of July 18 94 H E Lord Elgin s frontier tour w a s a nnounced to the public The Viceroy w a s to visit Pesh a wa r in the month of November , go up the Khyber P a ss then proceed by ra il to Quett a a n d returning to L a hore hold a d a rb a r there but l a ter on this tour w a s a ltered Two mem bers of the Mohm a nd B aj a w ar B oun d a ry Commission Mr U d n y a n d Surgeon C a pt ain M a cn a bb a rrived a t Pesh a wa r on Au gust 12 a n d went on to h a ve a n interview with the Sip a h S al a r Ghol a m Hyder Kh a n a t J el all ab a d a n d on this m eeting depended the future fa te of the Bound a ry C o m mission Very little occurred during the next three months th at requires p a rticul a r mention My a ssist a nt C a pt a in Minchin who ha d j oined the Khyber st aff
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2 70
IN
INDI A
cu
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x vx
April 15 , 1893 , w a s not s a tis fi ed with his position a n d st a tus under the P a nj a b Government , a n d ha d m a de up hi s mi nd to return to his former a ppoin tment in the Politic a l Dep a rtment under the Government of In di a I w as sorry a t this , but not surprised
on
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Sorry bec a use I felt sure th a t once he left me ( a n d I ha d be gun to like hi m a n d the W illing w a y he under took a n y duty or work th a t w a s entrusted to him) it would t a ke months perh a ps ye a rs to get a successor to him sent t o me I might thi nk myself lucky if a ny a ssist an t like C a pt a in Minchin were sent to repl a ce him but it w a s just possible th a t the Govern ment a t L a hore would a lter this a rra ngement which ha d been supported by one Lieut Governor Sir J a mes Lya ll a n d ha d received the s a nction of the Secret a ry of St a te for In di a in Council It m a de me j e a lous to look at the list Of milit a ry ofli d e rs lent by the Government of Indi a to the Gilgit a n d Chitr a l Agencies some twenty or more figuring in the Qu a rterly Pa nj a b Civil List supplied from the A ccount a nt Gener a l s Offi ce a t L a hore an d to fin d such diffi culty in my getting even one m a n a s a help to the Khyber st a ff I w as not surprised a t C a pt ain Minchin fors a king the Khyber a n d the Pa nj a b Government for his prospects under the Government Of Indi a were fa r better an d more rose a te On November 9 1894 Mr Curzon n ow Lord Curzon of Kedle ston Viceroy a n d Governor Gener a l Of Indi a a rrived a t Pesh a w a r a n d I ha d the ple a sure He w a s then tra vel Of meeting him the next d a y ling for ple a sure a trip which ha d for its Obj ect a j ourney on horseb a ck from Pesh aw a r to C a ubul where he w a s to be the guest of Am ir Abdur Ra h m a n Kh an ; a fter th a t he might undert a ke a ride to ,
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2 72
ON
LE AVE
INDI A
IN
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t his
trip singly without a ny Europe a n comp a nion After bidding our illustrious tr a veller good bye C olonel the Hon M Curzon a n d I returned to Pesh a wa r The Z a kh a Khel children in the Khyber now regul a rly turned out to greet us whenever we j ourneyed up a n d down the P a ss His Excellency Lord Elgin re a ched Pesh a wa r o n the morning of November 19 a n d two d a ys l a ter with the Comm a nder in Chief the Lieuten a nt Governor of the P a nj a b a n d a l a rge a n d brilli a nt following proceeded up the Khyber Ro a d a s fa r a s Al i M a sj id a n d ha d lunch in the fort a Visit which I ha d n o w the extreme s a tis w a s much enj oyed f a ction of h a ving t a ken three Viceroys Of Indi a in s uccession into the d e fi l e s of the historic a l P a ss a n d not one of these trips ha d been m a rred or spoilt by a n y hitch or a ccident It is a gre a t gra tifi c a tion to look b a ck on this a n d I w a s extremel y th a nkful th a t such good fortune ha d a ttended my humble e fforts a n d the work of the Khyber st a ff a n d Khyber Rifles who l a boured he a rt a n d soul to a ssist me Wh a tever s uccess w a s secured w a s entirely due to their e x e r t ions a n d to them must be a ssigned all the credit In a previous ch a pter on A min Kh a n 189 2 I h a ve pointed out th a t circumst a nces of St a te ha d necessit a ted getting rid of m y n a tive a ssist a nt w ho w a s a n Or a kz a i gentlem a n Of good f a mil y but w ho c ould not keep a loof from intriguing with the re pre s e n t a t iv e s of the independent tribes a n d he ha d been I tried my utmost p ermitted to retire on a pension t o get him repl a ced by a Europe a n extr a a ssist a nt bec a use in my Opinion it w a s better s a fer a n d w iser to h a ve a n honest Englishm a n to de a l with t he tr a ns border tribes th a n to seek the medium of .
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E GLECTED LETTERS
273
N
1893 -94
n a tive mid dl em a n w ho would most cert a inly bring us into complic a tions in the end a n d c a use Govern ment a l a rge expenditure in money in punishing some tribe for the fa ults of our own Agent There w a s no extra expense to be incurred a n d the a d v a n t a ges would be cert a in in a dopting the rec omm e n d a tion submitted by m e But a s I h a ve a lre a dy st a ted I received no a nswer to my m a ny letters The fi le seems to h a ve been lost in the pigeon holes Of the Offi ce of the Commissioner of the Pesh a w a r Division Ne a rly four ye a rs a fter the retirement of this n a tive a ssist a nt his pl a ce w a s given on my recommend a tion to Abdul Kerim Kh a n my he a d clerk w ho ha d served well in the Khyber o ffice for ne a rly fourteen ye a rs If I ha d del a yed much longer in w a iting for the Europe a n a ssist a nt there w a s the d a nger of seeing this a ppointment struck o ff our list a s being no longer required a
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CHAPTER XVI I F I NAL
YE ARS I N T HE KH YBE R 1 895 — 189 7
I N the very centre of the Khyber , which belongs to t he Z a kh a Khel Afri di s , but a bout a mile due nort h of t he Khyber Ro a d , is a spring known to the residents ” In a good se a son its wa ter supply m ay as Slip ol a .
h a ve re a ched g a l lons a d ay ; in a se a son of drought the limit w a s reduced to a bout The spring w a s high up the side of the mount a in in a deep cliff a n d by a pplying your ear to the rock a noise w a s he a rd of a l a rger volume of wa ter d a shing within th a n wh a t trickled out into the open Bl a sting t he rock might h a ve incre a sed the volum e of w a ter whi ch w a s of such immense v a lue to men a n d a nim a ls in this region but the n a tives were a verse to a n y s uch a ction a s they were a fr a id th a t it might dr y up During the period of our o c c u t he S pring entirely p a t ion by a l a rge milit a r y force in 18 7 9 the two M a liks a n d their people were quite a verse to giving up this w a ter for the use Of tr a vellers an d others ; however in the end I persu a ded them to a dopt my scheme A t a nk w a s m a de a t the he a d of the spring co vered to form a reservoir The wa ter w a s a nd b rought to the foot of the hill in exposed pipes w hilst from here to the Khyber Ro a d they were l a id underground the l a nd h a ving been willingly given p yment o ver by the owners without a sking for a n a y ,
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276
FI NAL YEARS
KH YBER
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CH
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XVI I
seemed to h a ve forgotten th a t under a rra ngements m a de by the British G overnment with the tribes of the Khyber Ra n g e t he P a ss w a s Open to c a r a v a ns on Tues d a y s a n d Frida ys in every week for of this circum st a nce she ha d been m a de a wa re when going up to C a ubul from Pesh a w a r S a rd a r N a srull a Kh a n a n d not his elder brother S a rd a r H a b ib ul l a the presumed heir a pp a rent to the throne of Afgh a nist a n ha d been selected to t a ke up the coveted invit a tion a n d I ha d a g a in the troublesome duty Of supplying the w a nts Of the A fgh a n p a rty a s I ha d to do in 188 5 when H H Amir Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n j ourne y ed down to the R a wa l Pin di d a rb a r We were fi rst told th a t the S a rd a r would re a ch Pesh a w a r on April 6 1895 ; the second intim a tion w a s th a t he would be a t L a n di Kot a l on the 1 l t h a n d re a ch Pesh a w a r two d a ys l a ter with a retinue of seventy nine persons So Lieuten a nt Colonel A sl a m Kh a n a n d I tra velled to L a ndi Kot a l on the 9t h a n d were there j oined by Lieutenant Colonel T a lbot a n d Surgeon M a j or Le a hy who ha d come up to meet S a rd a r N a srull a Kh a n a n d a ccomp a ny him to Engl a nd on Frid a y April 12 D a y a fter d a y w e w a ited ; a ll the supplies of fruit brought up from Bomb a y a n d Pesh a w a r bec a me spoilt a n d ha d to be thrown a wa y On the 15 th for the fi rst time w e received reli a ble inform a tion th a t the S a rd a r would a rrive on the 1 7 th a n d th a t his suite would con sist not of seventy nine but of 3 00 persons 6 00 horses mules a n d ponies SO fresh a rr a ngements ha d to be m a de for nothing extr a Wa s obt a in a ble ne a rer th a n Pesh a w a r—thirty one miles a wa y At l a st the morning of April 18 found us with a s qu a dron of the 1 3 t h D C O Beng a l L a ncers w a it ,
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G UARDI NG
1 895 -97
NA SRU LL A KHAN
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ing a t Tor Kh a m to receive N a srull a w ho with hi s suite a rrived a bout One m a n I knew well a n d th a t w as S a rd a r Muh a mm a d H a ss a n Kh a n the Governor of J el all ab a d in 18 7 9 whose c a reer I h a ve Our st a y a t L a ndi Kot a l a lre a dy fully describe d a n d the h a lt a t J a mrud the next d ay we re periods of g re a t anxiety a n d the c a mp a t the l a st pl a ce w a s s urrounded by three circles of w a tchmen & ( 1) in the o uter circle c a me posts of the Kuki Khel tribesmen ; ( 2 ) then c a me sentries of the Khyber Rifles ; ( 3) sentries from the regul a r regiments of N a tive c a va lry l a st of a ll c a me the S a rd a r s o w n a n d infa ntry ; Fortun a tely g u a rds w ho kept to their own c a mp both nights were p a ssed pe a ce fully an d it w a s with extreme j oy th a t w e found ourselves within the C a ntonments of Pesh a w a r on the morning of April 2 0 C a pt a in Minchin in a ccord a nce with his w ishes ha d gone b a ck to his origin a l dep a rtment under the Government of India a n d the Khyber w a s deprived of his services Wh a t I ha d a nticip a ted a n d fe a red His pl a ce w a s not fi lled up in a ctu a lly occurred Why or wherefore a ll 18 95 nor until October 18 96 this gre a t del a y occu rred need not be entered into here beyond st a ting th a t it w a s needless a n d posi In the me a nwhile the t iv e ly wrong in principle Chitr a l w ar progressed ; Surgeon Ma j or Robertson ha d been rele a sed a n d the g a therings of Sher Af z a l But the Chitr a l problem a n d U m r a Kh a n di spersed rem a ined to be gra sped Pe a ce an d quiet reigned in the Khyber Hills during the whole of 1895 a n d the Civil Engineer w as busy a t L a ndi Kot a l improving the T a n gi w ater supply scheme S o m any trips ha d t o ,
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FINA L YEARS
27 8
I N TH E
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be m a de up a n d down the Khyber th a t I ha d little time to m ake a c a reful inspection of the buildings huge reservoir a n d enormous t a nks a n d troughs for wa tering a nim a ls which ha d been brought into existence by the energy of the Engineer Dep a rt ment The return of Amin Kh a n a n d his re a ppoint ment a s Ma lik of h a lf the Kuki Khel Af ridis by the P a nj a b Government ha d c a used much discontent a mongst the p a rty who ha d been on the side of the British Government during the period when this young m a n w a s viciously opposed to us a n d doing his best to ruin himself I could see th a t there w a s a n inclin a tion to constitute him sole M a lik a n d turn out K a mb a r the son of M a lik Akb a r Kha n dece a sed However the m atter w a s not a ttempted with a strong h a nd j ust then an d it would h a ve been a c a use of deep bitter regret ha d it succeeded a t a n y time more so during my incumbency of the Khyber a rr ange ments The p a rty in Ja m a n d S a rk a i who belonged to K a m b a r s side were however guilty of a very serious a n d extremely foolish o ffence in the northern hornwork of Fort J a mrud which o ffence the y wished to pl a ce on the shoulders of Ma lik Amin Kh a n a n d his a llies For this the tribe were he a vily fi ned a n d it w a s expl a ined to M a lik K a mb a r th a t me a sures of this n a ture would only ruin his c a use a n d ej ect him from the h a lf M a liki he w a s now enj oying In a me a sure He ha d Am in Kh a n w a s to bl a me for this him self been w a rned by Mr H a stings a n d a g ain repe a tedly by myself not to go to Ja m on a ny a ccount w ithout fi rst obt a ining the s a nction of the Politic a l O ffi cer of Khyber He fa iled to obey these orders which in the fi rst inst ance c a me from the Government of the ,
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FIN AL YEARS
2 80
IN THE
KH YBER
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be a r on them until their remov a l to a pl a ce of s a fety But Amin Kh a n s d a ys were numbered He ha d lost his lef t eye some ye ars before in trying to ram down a Sni der bullet into a M a rtini Henry rifle n ow hi s right a rm w a s rendered completely and useless On August 17 1897 he rushed into J am rud a n d w a rned Sir Rich a rd U d n y an d the British a uthorities th a t an Afridi l a shk a r strong with Mull a hs from Ning rahar, w a s moving to a tt a ck a ll the Khyber pos t s from L a n di Kot a l down w a rds When I c ame from Tir a h by the B a ra V a lley a n d w a s ordered by Sir Willi a m Lockh a rt to t a ckle the Afri di question a t the comm encement of J a nu a ry 1898 Amin Kh a n w a s worked with the other Af ridi M a liks an d j irg a s p a rt Of th a t month a n d the whole of Febru a ry a n d M a rch by the end of which time ne a rly the whole Afridi fin e in rifles a n d c a sh ha d been p aid up Ill he a lth forced me to le a ve J a mrud on April 5 1898 a n d I never sa w him a g a in He w a s murdered at Ja m on December 6 1898 No p a rticul a rs re a ched me a s to w ho did this a ct but Amin Kh a n ha d w a ded knee deep through blood a n d murder a n d it seemed cert a in th a t venge a nce woul d overt a ke him sooner or l a ter He could not h a ve been more th a n thirty four ye a rs Ol d at the time of his de a th The month of August 189 6 sa w me once more a t L a ndi Kot al a n d Lieuten a nt Colonel A sl a m Kh a n m a de the j ourney with me a t the c ommencement of the month The hundr eds of pe a ch mulberry a n d a lmond trees pl a nted in the ser a i were m a king splen did progre ss but wh a t w a s more gl a ddening w a s to go down towa rds L a ndi Kh a n a for about ya rds by the m ain ro a d an d see the gra nd reservoir a n d .
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C AP TA I N
1895 97 -
APP OINTMENT
B A RTON S ’
2 81
the three immense Open t a nks a ll full to the brim with excellent wa ter whilst on the ro a d were l a id open troughs for wa tering all a nim a ls j ourneying up Al l a n d down the Khyber Ro a d to or from D a kk a this work the l a bour of ye a rs ha d been c a rried out with the frien dl y a ssist a nce a n d c o Oper a tion of the S hi nwa ri tribesmen without h a ving c a used a second s a nxiety to Government a n d without invoking a n y out side a id A splendid sera i for k a fil a s an d c a ra va ns ha d a lso been built a n d now poor tr a vellers could h a ve the me a ns Of securing shelter a n d cover from the r a in a n d storms of wind th a t often swept with gre a t Violence over the pl a te a u The repro a ch of l a ck of shelter for these poor tra vellers ha d a t l a st been wiped a w a y M aj or a n d Mrs Chesney c a me up to L a n di Kot a l for a couple of weeks The former w a s our Engineer in Chief a n d looked to all the rep a irs a n d requirements from L a ndi Kh a n a to the c a r a v a n ser a i a t J a m rud where a splen di d hospit a l ha d been built for the men Of the Khyber Rifles a n d a dispens a ry org a nised for the use Of those men an d women of the independent tribes a n d k a fila s who c a red to pl a ce themselves under the c a re of our worthy n a tive doctor K a zi Imra n The little folks boys a n d girls Of the L a ndi Kot a l pl a te a u ha d their two or three tre a ts a n d then I went down to Pesh a w a r a n d my l a st summer st a y in the Khyber Hills c a me to a close At the commencement Of November 18 96 C a pt a in B a rton of the Corps of Guides c a me to me a s a ssist a nt a n d he w a s to t a ke up the comm a nd Of the Khyber Rifles when L ieu t en an t ~C olon e l Asl a m Kh a n retired on pension This n a tive gentlem a n would h a ve been retired some three ye a rs previously under the a g e cl a use ha d I not recommended his further retention ,
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FI NAL YEARS
2 82
KH YB ER
IN THE
CH
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x vII
for the Old m a n s s a ke a n d further bec a use no a rra ngements ha d been m a de until then to Obt a in a successor to him Sir Willi a m Lockh a rt a rrived a t Pesh a w a r on November 2 6 but his intended trip to L a ndi Kot a l a n d Tor S a pp a r w a s set a side on a ccount of torrents of ra in The Lieuten a nt Governor of the P a nj a b Sir D Fitzp a trick w ho ha d been inter vi ew ing the T a r a kz a i H alim z ai Burh a n Khel Is akhel D a w e z a i a n d U tm a nz a i the Six cl a ns of the M ohm an d s a ffected by the Dur a nd bound a ry line at a d a rb a r held ne a r Sha b k a d d ar a lso j ourneyed into Pesh a wa r when the ceremony w a s over I w a s fortun a te enough a t l a st in being a ble to c arry out a gre a t wish of mine which w a s to t a ke Genera l Sir W Lockh a rt to see Tor S a pp a r U nder a rr a ngement Sir Willi a m a n d C a pt a in H a ld a ne left Pesh a wa r with me very e a rly on the morning of Febru a ry 2 2 a n d h aving spent a good hour a t Tor S a pp a r we were b a ck in Pesh a wa r the s ame evening by 7 P M h a ving done our seventy eight miles since morning On M a rch 10 I took up Mr (now Sir R ) U d ny a n d two members of the Mohm a nd Bound a ry Commission to L a n di Kot a l a n d the next morning they went to interview Sip a h S a l a r G hol a m Hyder Kh a n Ch a rkhi a t L a ndi Kh a n a a n d there w as a con ference extending over severa l hours When they PM returned a t in the evening it seemed evident from wh a t one could pick up th a t the Bound a ry Mission w a s doomed I w a s compelled to go b a ck to Pesh a wa r on M a rch 12 a n d a few d a ys l a ter these three gentlemen returned a lso a n d in this w a y the Bound a ry Dem a rc a tion Mission c a me to an end Three d ays l a ter—Le on April 7 — M a j or Genera l Sir E Collen C a pt a ins Dick an d B a rton ’
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FINA L YEARS
2 84
KH YBER
I N THE
CH
.
x vx x
rep a id Government in the end But other people knew better a n d now when the d a y of my dep a rture a rrived there w a s no Europe a n o fficer to t a ke my pl a ce a n d the Kh yber ch a rge w a s entrusted to Lieuten a nt Colonel A sl a m Kh a n whose pension p a pers were a lre a dy before the P a nj a b Government the comm a nd of the Khyber corps being t a ken over by C a pt a in B a rton For d a ys Pesh a w a r sw a rmed with Afridis w ho ha d come for their a llow a nces a n d purch a ses before migr a ting to their su m mer qu a rters in B a ra Tir a h B a j g a l a n d the B a z ar Va lley for the hot we a ther w a s r a pidly coming on There w a s no single question troubling their minds seriously which w a s likely to induce them to t a ke up a rms a g a inst the British Government The incre a se in the s a lt t a x however repugn a nt it might h a ve been to them some ye a rs before ha d now been a lmost forgotten The S a m a n a question even in 1891 a n d 1892 ha d no interest for them when they le a rnt th a t their o w n Afridi country w a s not to be inv a ded provided they a bst a ined from interfering with the troops opera ting a g a inst the Or a kz a i cl a ns in the Mir a nz a i c a mp a ign With the a n d I a m con a ffa irs of Sw a t they ha d no concern v in ce d th a t the Khyber Rifles would h a ve willingly sh a red in the Chitr a l Swa t c a mp a ign if they ha d been a llowed to go T he Dura nd B ound a ry Line c a used them no a l a rm a n d its settlement w a s lo o ked forw a rd to by our Shinwa ris a s they hoped to get b a ck the h a mlet of Derbend a n d some gr a zing l a nds then held b y the Amir s people which they cl a imed Reg a rding the restora tion Of their women there were in some c a ses j ust c a use of com pl a int a g a inst us ; but since the number of fem a les w ho were concerned .
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EX P I RA T ION OF
1895 - 9 7
2 85
SER I C E
so few s a y two or three in the ye a r the m a ss Of the people di d not c a re to trouble themselves much over it When the husb a nd or ne a r rel a tion of the wom a n worried a M alik or a j irg a to ple a d his cl a im they did so a s trib a l custom forced them to do it H a ving once m a de the a ppe a l these retired a n d left the subj ect a lone for the future until worried by the husb a nd to m a ke a second a ppe a l With the ex c e pt ion of this griev a nce a n d a compl a int of Pesh a wa ris going sometimes into Afridi l a nd a n d cutting wood a n d dwa rf p a lm belonging to others I c a n honestly a ffirm th a t I knew of no other griev a nce which the Afridis could h a ve ha d a g a inst us An d on th a t a fternoon of M a y 10 189 7 when some English friends c a me to bid me good bye there were hundreds of Afri di s— M a liks elders a n d jirg a s— crowding the r a ilwa y pl a tform to t a ke a l a st look a t one who ha d been a ssoci a ted with them Off a n d on for nigh eighteen ye a rs It w a s with a very sorrowful he a rt th a t I s aw the la st of them th a t evening a s the 5 R M tra in ste a med out of the Pesh a wa r C a ntonment st a tion towa rds R a wa l Pindi I little dre a mt then th a t the Khyber D e b acle of A ugust 189 7 would c a rry me through every qu a rter of Af ri di l a nd in the toughest a n d h a rdest fought c a mp a ign I ever ha d the mi sfortune or honour of being a ssoci a ted with Two months were spent ple a s a ntly a t Murree a n d then July 11 18 9 7 c a me round a n d my time of service in the Kh yber expired a n d Lieuten a nt Colonel A sl a m Kh a n w a s confi rmed I n the o ffi ci a ting post of Politic a l O fficer Khyber P a ss The a ccomp a nying letter from the Government of the P a nj a b w a s forwa rded to me by Sir R U d n y Commissioner a n d Superintendent Pesh a wa r Division w as
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FINA L YEARS
2 86
KHYBER
I N TH E
ex
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x vx x
L et t er , No 8 7 4 , d a t ed S im la , Ju ly 2 3 , 1897 , from L W D a n e , E s qu ire, Ofiicia l C hief S ecret a ry t o t he Gov ernm en t P a nj a b , t o t he C ommissioner a n d S up erin ten d en t , P es ha w a r D ivision
C op y of
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I n forw ard in g for c om m unic a io n t o C olon el R War b u rt on , t he a ccom p a n in g c o p of Pa n j ab overn m ent a zet t e , Not ifi ca io n No 834 S of his d a t e , repla cin g his s ervi ces a t t he disp o s al o f t he M il it ar D ep artm ent , I am d e sired t o conve t he foll ow in g re m ark s C olon el W a rb ur o n ha s b een in c ha rg e of the Kh b er a lm ost ever sin ce t he B ri is h o ernm en t t ook over char e g o f t he a rra ng e m e n s c onn ec e d w i h t he P a ss in 1 879, an d pra ct ic all c ont inu ou s l s in ce 1 882 , a n d t he cred it for t he ing out t he arra ng e s u cc ess whi ch ha s b een Ob a in e d in c a m ent s in iti a t e d b y t he l a e C o lon e l H a st ing s , a n d t hereb o f t he o a d a n d t he e s ab lishm en t o f s ec urin g t he s a fe fairl frien dl rela io n s w i h t he Kh b e r Af rid is , m u st l arg el b e a tt rib uted t o his e ffo t s T hes e e ffort s have b e en re cognised b y t he confe m en on him on Ja nuar 1, 1890, of t he b ut a s he is n ow leavin g ci il e mp lo , t he t hanks overn m en t are d u e t o him for his s ervices , whic h in o f thi s t he e arlier d a s o f our m a n a g em en t of the P a ss a t any ra t e involved c on sid erab le p e s on a l risk a nd e x p osure The t ask w hic h C ol on el Wa rb ur on a n d his a b l e As sis t an t C ol one l ha d t o perform w a s n ove l M ahomm a d Asla m Khan , a n d t he fa c ha t he Kh b er on a a n d o f u n u su al diffi cul t Ka fil a d ay is n ow a s s a fe a s a hig h o a d in I n dia , a nd t ha t t he Kh b er Rifles ha ve b e e n d e el op e d f om a b od of ru d e Jez ailchie s in t o a fine C orp s ke en for a c tive s ervice und er e v e n o u t o f he ir o w n t ri b al lim it s , o ernm e n t he British w ill b e a l a s t in g m em orial o f t he g oo d w ork which C ol on el W a rb ur on has p erfo m e d in t he s e vice of overnm ent
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A c opy W arb urt on
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b e furni shed t o C ol on e l
CHAPTER XVIII TH E
I
HAVE
‘
D EBA C L E
K HYBE R
lre a dy noted in the previous ch apter th a t a t the time of m y le aving Pesh a w a r on the a fternoon of M a y 10 1897 , the hori zon Of Khyber politics w a s unclouded a n d bright Aft er ye ars of p a tient w ork a n d without a n y aid in force from Govern m ent the ro a ds se a son a fter se a son ha d been re p a ired the milit a ry posts kept in excellent service a ble order a l a rge fortifi ed sera i an d a ka fil a one ha d been built up a t L a n di Kot a l a nd the wa ter supply in the Khyber a n d a t L an di Kot al ha d been s a tisfa ctorily provided for A reservoir ha d been to ga llons w a s m a de a t Ya kh Chen a the da ily supply given out by this me a ns in the excee dingly d ry se a son of 1888 when me a sured by Lieuten a nt (now Lieuten a nt Colonel) Ma cdon a ld M a lik Am in Kh a n s movement ha d been RE crushed in 1892 but he ha d been given a nother ch a nce to do us mischief if the Sniders of his victims The M aliks who ha d ha d not m a imed him for ever helped in hi s ruin were themselves sufferers by the course of events I knew th a t a British Offi cer could h a ve been t a ken to Chora the B a z ar a n d B a ra Va lleys and even up to Tira h but the Commis si c h er of the Pesh a w a r Division ha d written th a t neither I nor my subordin a tes were to go to either a
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1897
No
RE AL AFRIDI GRIE VA NC E
2 89
ide of the Khyber Ro a d without permission obt a ined from cert a in a utho rities Anything th at we wa nte d done on the Khyber Ro a d or from ten to fifteen mi le s on the North towa rds the C a ubul River could h a ve been a ccomplished a n d c a rried out with a s much e a se a s if in the Pesh a w a r Va lley British an d Indi an life a n d property were a s s a fe in the Khyber a s in When the Afridis a ny p a rt of the P a nj a b Province I p a rted on the r a ilwa y pl a tform th a t a fter a nd noon the s alt t a x the S a m a n a occup ation were m a tters unhe a rd of An d it w a s a question which never troubled the Afridi mind once he ha d re alised the fa ct th a t we held the S a m a na in order to prevent Ora kz a i thi eves a n d ra iders ste a ling a n d c a rrying a w a y B a ng a sh property a n d not with the sinister obj ect of inva di ng an d a nnexing his beloved Tir a h The compl aint reg arding their women still r a nkled in some minds but the numbers were so few th a t pressure in this m a tter w a s by no me a ns gre a t Af ri di s in the service There were about of the British Govern ment d istributed a mongst the v arious regiments corps an d police w ho were perm itted to enlist men of this cl a ss I believe th a t in this lot the men of the Khyber Rifles w ho were Af ridis were not in cluded Then there were severa l hundreds who enj oyed monthl y pensions for long ye a rs of good a n d meritorious se rvice an d l a st of all c a me the Khyber a llowa nces The re a der m ay then ask since the A fridis ha d been lo a ded with kindness an d ha d no re a l griev ance a g ainst the British an d Indi a n Governments how c a me it th a t they were induced to rise a n d a tt a ck the posts in the Khyber P a ss a n d by their ow n volunt a ry a ct brin g on the unequ a l w ar whi ch ended in the inv a sion S
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2 90
TH E
K H Y BER
DEB ACLE
x viII
CH
of their l a nds the destruction of their forts a n d the ruin of their country s prestige ? The Afridi bo a st th a t no conqueror ha d ever d a red to force his w a y into T ira h c a nnot n ow be m a int a ined I give the c a use of the revolt a s I he a rd it a n d a s it w a s c om m u n ic a t e d to me in writing but whether it is correct a n d right in ever y det a il I sh a ll not discuss here The circumst a nces which ha d plunged Greece into a w ar a g a inst Turkey a n d the a buse showered in Engl a nd on the Sult a n of Turkey ha d c a used deep a nnoy a nce an d indign a tion in the he a rt of m a ny Muh a mm a da ns but this indign a tion w a s centred a t Const a ntinople an d in those cities where the Sunni fa ith w a s in the a scend a nt a n d to which pl a ces news w a s conveyed r a pidly a s to wh a t w a s s a id a n d done in cert a in c a pit a ls of Europe The wild m a n of the dependent hills on the Pesh a wa r Border w a s ill informe d on such m a tters a n d wh a t w a s more he did not in the le a st c a re His d a ily life w a s one of ce a seless l a bour to provide for the wa nts of his fa mily a n d to s a ve enough money to buy some d ay a M a rtini Henry rifle ; a n d this life he w a s perfectly The wise men s a tis fi ed with a n d content to live then sm a rting under the a buse o f Const a ntinople he a ped on the successor of the Prophet looked round t o see Wh a t countries they could turn a g a inst for this wrong an d whichever w a y they Viewed the m a tter t here were only three Governments th a t ha d M u s s u l m a n neighbours a n d subj ects a n d in this c a se the sole o ffender w a s th a t Power which ha s the gre a test An d so a t the n umber of Muh a mm a d a n s ubj ects e n d of M a y 189 7 reports were circul a ted a t Pesh a w a r t h a t a n a g ent from Const a ntinople ha d re a ched C a ubul ha d interviewed the ruler of the God gra nted ,
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2 92
THE
KH YBER
D EBAC LE
CH
x vx x x
.
ney ; whether he w a s invited by written or verb a l in v it a t ion All th a t he g a ve out w a s th a t he w a s bound on a pilgrim a ge to the zi a ra t of Meht a r L am in the L a ghm a n Val ley j ust t w o or three miles south of Tig ri The Sip a h S a l a r tre a ted the S a ya d for thr ee d a ys w ith gre a t hospit a lity a n d kindness an d a t the time of his dep a rture presented him with 300 rupees When S a ya d Akb a r a fter doing his pilg rim a ge re turned to J el allab a d en rou te to his ow n country he found th a t Ghol a m Hyder Kh a n ha d been forced to hurry a wa y to Asm a r on a ccount of the fi ght between the t w o regiments of the Am ir s a rmy So he j ourneyed b a ck to the B a ra Va lley to his home in Wa ran without h a ving a second in terview or meeting w ith the Sip a h S a la r But there w a s nothing to prevent his being in d aily or weekly com m u n ic a t ion with the Sip a h S a l a r the Mull a h of H a dd a or the M a d F a kir of Sw a t during the Whole o f June July a n d the gre ater p a rt of August There were hundreds of T a lib s a v a il a ble 1897 quite re a dy to go on this or a ny service under the orders of their he a d ; the service might h a ve been merely to c a rry a verb a l mess a ge a n d food a n d S helter were a v a il a ble for them a t a n y pl a ce where there h a ppened to be a mosque In th a t q u a rter of the world mess ages of import are gener ally sent by word of mouth A m a n will write to his de a rest friend in word s like these & I a m sen di ng this by h a nd of SO a n d s o who will tell you verb a ll y wh a t I wa nt you to do Thi s sort of procedure le a ves no evidence to gra pple with once a gre a t mischi ef ha s been produced It is the system which ha s been a dopted on a ll occ a sions by the Arb a b a n d middle m a n of the P a nj a b N W Frontier .
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M ULL A H S AYAD A KBAR
1897
2 93
It is impossible to note here on wh a t grounds a n d by whom S a y a d A kb a r w a s selected for this speci a l ru le of r a ising up the Afridis a n d Or a kz a is a g a inst the Of the three chief Mull a hs B ritish Governm ent a mongst the Af ridis he r a nked lowest in every w a y in the estim a tion of the tribesm en He w a s kno w n to be gr a sping a n d fond Of money a n d ha d t a ken a n a ctive p a rt in trying to unite the Ak a Khel so a s to e xtr a ct from the numeric a lly we a k Sip a h A fridis a Ak a Khel ortion of their Khyber llow the a nces a p themselves h a ving no sh a re in th a t a rra ngement He ha d t a ken the side of M a lik Sher Muh a mm a d S ip a h who w a s trying to put into his own pocket the sh a re which he should h a ve given entirely to his It w a s a n Open secret in the B a r a fellow tribesmen Va lley th a t he ha d committed these two a cts not for the s a ke of religion but to gr a b good solid rupees The building of a m a gnifi cent house for himself in W a r an which took three ye a rs in its completion w a s a nother proof of his sel fi sh n a ture He only troubled himself with worldl y m a tters le a ving the service of the Prophet a n d the progress of Isl a m to the other two spiritu a l le a ders These fa cts lost him a good de a l of s t a tu s a mongst the grey be a rds the wiser portion of the j irg a s which constitute the strength of a ny tribe A t the weekly pr a yers held in the simple unostent a tious mosque a t B a gh situ a ted in the M a lik di n Khel qu a rter Of the M a id a n of Tir a h which w a s the meeting pla ce Of seven tribes o f the Af ri di s representing a n a rmed popul a ce Of fi ghting men the m a n who comm a nded some the gre a test respect a n d w hose voice secured the c losest a ttention a n d obedience w as the vener a ble M ull a h ( M a u z oon ) of the M a likdin Khel A fridis He .
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2 94
THE
w a s a n Ol d
K HYBER DEBACLE
ex
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x vx x x
m an ,
whose life ha d been spent in pra yer a n d in telling the wild A fridi the w a y he should w a lk in this life a n d this Mull a h seldom or ever interfered in worl dl y m a tters At the period th a t Am in Kh a n spent all hi s money in 1892 to win the Mull ahs to his side a n d bribe them to get up a n Af ridi rising for Am in Kh a n s c a use a g a in st the British I w a s in communic a tion with the Old M alikdin Khel Mull a h a n d he wrote to me s a ying th a t he would neve r counten a nce Amin Kh a n s a ction in a n y w ay Aft er wa rds the old Mul la h s son used to Visit me a t Pesh a wa r a n d w e met for the l a st time j ust before my le a ving on M ay 10 1897 The fa mily were in terested in keeping up friendship with the S a rk a r so fa r a s a Mull a h coul d be depended on for doing S O At a ll events in c a se a n y re al trouble w as a bout t o be h a tched they ha d promised to wa rn me of it in So little w a s S a ya d Ak b a r liked a n d a mple time respected th a t a t th a t period in M ay 1897 an d for some ye a rs before it w a s never believed th a t he coul d secure a j oint rising of Afri di s an d Ora kz a is Al l th a t w a s recognised a bout him w a s th a t he w a s young in a g e excessively fond of money a n d power th a t the Af ri di s c all ed him behind his b a ck a an d Loe Sh a it a n It is not possible to s ay with a n y a mount o f cert a inty whether the pre a ching of the Gha za w a s to be c a rried out a t one a n d the s a me time in Wa zirista n in Tira h a mongst the M ohm a n d s a n d by the M a d F a kir in the Swa t Va lley so th a t the rising should be simult a neous from Ma iz ar in the Tochi Va lley to Ch a kd a rra an d M a l a k a nd It is believed th a t the Wa zir Mull a h P a w in d ah w a s a t C a ubul during M ay but a t the s a me time we knew ,
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2 96
K H Y BE R
TH E
DEBAC LE
cu
x v
m
m a de its a tt a ck on Sha b k a d d a r on August 9 A n d it w a s on the 2 2 n d ne a rly fourteen d a ys l a ter th a t the Afridi l a shk a r a ppe a red a t L a l a Chen a a n d commenced the a tt a ck on the posts of Sh a di B a gi a r Jeh a n gir a Fort M a ud on the followin g d a y When these posts ha d been secured a n d burn t then they moved westwa rds to concentr a te their a ttention on Fort Ali M a sj id It m ay be a ccepted therefore th a t there is no proof of a n y a ttempt h a ving been m a de to r a ise the border from M a iz a r round northwa rds to the Swa t Va lley in one combined movement a ga inst us The M a d Mull a h m a de his a tt a ck a n d when he found th a t he could not succeed he a pplied to the priest of H a dd a for help a n d th a t gentlem a n in his t urn sent messengers to S a y a d Akb a r a sking him to c o oper a te a n d m a ke a diversio n with a j oint l a shk a r of Afridis a n d Ora kz a is Whether S a y a d Ak b a r w a s in unison with the Sip a h S a l a r Ghol a m Hyder Kh a n or with a n y other Offici a l of the Af gh a n G overnment in bring ing up this Afridi Or a kz a i g a thering there is no proof of a reli a ble sort beyond intelligence brought down b y word of mouth but news of this n a ture c a n never be trusted Some m a y deny even his j ourn ey to the zi a r a t of Meht a r L a m in L a ghm a n a n d his meeting with G hol a m Hy der Kh a n a t J el a ll a b a d during the month of M a y 189 7 To this one a nswer might be given which is th a t unless the H a dd a Mull a h or some of his princip a l supporters ha d met or ha d been a n d seen S a y a d A kb a r in J e l a ll a b a d prev iously a cqua inted with him in some w ay there w a s no re a son why a n a ppe a l should h a ve b een m a de to the le a st influenti a l a n d we a kest of the three noted A fridi Mull a hs to pre a ch a religious w a r a mongst .
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Q U ESTION
1 897
Afridis
2 97
OF RE -EM PL OYMENT
Or akz ais an d induce them to combine a g a inst the powerful British Government I he a rd from frien d s w ho were in Pesh a wa r during th a t month of August 1897 th a t it w a s not until a fter the Shab ka d d ar incident of A ugust 9 th a t news c a me down from Tir a h of a git a tion by Mull ahs urging the Afridis a n d Ora kz ais to commence w ar But even with this a g a inst the B ritish Power a git a tion , our men on le a ve were a llowed to come a n d go freely to a n d from Tir a h a n d no vi sible pres sure w a s brought on them for being in the service of On August 13 I ha d been invited o ur Government t o the house of Gener a l Sir G Wolseley Comm a nding the Forces Pa nj a b who w a s a nxious to le a rn news from the direction Of the Khyber a n d returning home a t sunset I fo und a n urgent St a te telegr a m from the Foreign Secret a ry t o the Govern ment of Indi a worded thus & If Government pro posed to re —em ploy you speci a lly with reference to Af ri di a ffa irs would you be willing ? My a nswer w as Re a dy for any Government service if required An d to m a ke sure th a t my reply sho ul d be sent Off th a t very night I desp a tched it by the h a nds of my o rderly a n d received his report on his return th a t my instructions had been c a rried out a n d the receipt from the telegra ph Ofiic e delivered to me But a week or rather eight d a ys p a ssed a n d a ll ende a vours to g et news from Pesh a w a r or Fort J amru d ended in At l a st c a me the fa t a l August 22 when f a il ure the Afridi l a shk a r moving a long the s a me route a s the Afridi l a shka rs of 187 8 a n d 189 2 a ppe a red in the country to the south of L a l a Chen a It w a s then th a t the impertinent mess a ge w a s sent a sking th a t the British troops be cle a red out of the S a m a n a an d an d
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2 98
TH E
K HYBER
DEBACLE
ox
.
x vm
the Ma l a k a nd the s a lt t a x to be lowered a n d their women to be restored ; which conditions being c a rried Ou t the A fridi g a thering would return to their homes I believe this mess a ge never c a me from the Af ridis but w a s sent b y some ra sc a lly Mull a h a n d th a t the a ssembly were a fr a id to tell the truth a bout it I sh a ll s a y nothing here th a t m a y help to re open Ol d sores a n d cre a te fresh p a ngs A cert a in policy ha s been c a rried out by the Supreme Government a n d to th a t policy every serva nt Of St a te must how so long a s he rem a ins in the service of Government But there c a n be no Obj ection in writing wh a t I am now doing Before going to Tira h I ha d opportuni ties of seeing Afridi n a tive o ffi cers a t R a wa l Pin di a n d when w e c a me a n d in Tir a h itself a t Koh a t down to J a mr u d a ll the negoti a tions With the Afridis except those with the Akh a Khel s were entirel y in my h a nds from J a nu a ry 1 to April 5 1898 I ha d therefore Opportunities Of conversing w ith a n d inter view ing some thous a nds Of men Those th a t I questioned s a id their l a shk a r ha d not come down to fi ght the S a rk a r Then wh a t m a de you come Why down ? The Mull a hs brought us down did you Obey the Mull a hs a n d Why did you not turn them out of your country ? They were too powerful for us H a d you a n y re a l griev a nce a g a inst the British Government to induce you to Then why NO we ha d not fi ght a g a inst it ? The Mull ahs forced us di d you a tt a ck the posts ? This m a y a ppe a r ra nk f alsehood b ut knowing the power of the priestly cl a ss in a Muh a mm a d a n country I look to the report brought down by M a lik Amin Kh a n Kuki Khel on August 1 7 a n d it a ppe a rs worded in Sir R U d n y s telegr a m to Govern ,
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3 00
TH E
KH YB ER
DEBAC LE
on
.
x vx x x
the Tir a h expedition I a m convinced th a t without h is intervention on my beh a lf I should not h a ve s h a red in th a t c a mp a ign This telegra m re a ched me & Siml a September 2 9 from Foreign 3 6 97 F Gener a l Sir W illi a m Lockh a rt ha s a sked th a t y ou be a ppointed to his politic a l st a ff in the Tir a h Expedition on which Sir Rich a rd U d n y is chief politic a l o fficer If you a re willing to serve ple a se let Sir Willi a m Lockh a rt a n d me know a n d a rra nge directly with Sir Willi a m a s to j oining him I sh a ll then settle the question of p a y a n d of your re employ ment Sir Willi a m Lockh a rt a n d his Chief Of the St a ff Gener a l W G Nicholson ha d a rrived a couple Of d a ys before a t Murree from Siml a so I ha s t e n e d to Sir W illi a m a t once to th a nk him for his goodness a n d to a w a it his orders I a lso replied to the Foreign Dep a rtment a ccepting the position I j ourneyed to Koh a t which w a s re a ched on October 7 a n d I w a s a t K a hi on the 18t h of th a t m onth when the fi rst a tt a ck on D a rg a i took pl a ce We re a ched Shen a w a ri on the 1 9t h a n d the next d a y fi e ld gl a ss in h a nd I witnessed the Whole p a nor a m a of fi ght which me a nt the second a tt a ck on D a rg a i It w a s 1 0 A M a s the fi rst gun on our side opened fi re a n d fi v e minutes to 3 P M when the b a yonets of our men on the heights of D a rg a i told of the c a pture of th a t pl a ce a fter a stubborn fi ght of fi v e hours The comb a t a nts looked so ne a r a t h a nd th a t with a good powerful gl a ss the di fferent a tt a cks My a ttention c ould be pl a inly a n d e a sily discerned w a s often dr a wn to the left of the enemy s position ne a r Na rikh Sukka (to our right a s w e looked in th a t direction ) where a fi gure in white w a s seen st a nding on the ridge an d w a ving his lungi a t .
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TIRAH M A ID AN
THE
1897
3 01
interv a ls My ow n opini on w a s th a t this fi gure in white w a s a Mulla h who ha d pla ced him self in a prominent position to wa tch our a dv a nce a n d give wa rni ng when the rushes were m a de He w a s seen in the s ame position for a very long time by myself an d others a lthough he w a s not visible to the b a tteries firing from the pl a te a u Wha t bec a me of him eventu a lly none of us could tell His beha viour however w a s a dmir a ble a n d br a ve to a degree The S a mp a g a Pa ss w a s stormed on October 2 9 a n d the Arh a ng a c a ptured two d a ys l a ter a n d on the l a st d a y of October 189 7 three brig a des of the Tira h Expedition a ry Force were enc a mped in the Ma id a n of Tira h As we expected to rem a in for a few d a ys we did wh a t we could to m a ke ourselves comfort a ble by digging down a foot or so inside our tents to shelter ourselves from the Wind an d to secure a pl a ce where it w a s possible to ea t our me als under toler a ble cover The d ays were cert a inly fa irly w a rm but the nights a n d mornings were a n d sunshiny intensely cold The thermometer showed twenty one degrees of frost on some ni ghts a n d wa ter in the wa shing b a sins outside the tent w a s frozen to a thickness of two a n d a h a lf inches du ring the night If I w ho lived in very tolera ble comfort with a sm a ll tent over me an d s ufii c ien c y of clothing at night felt the intense cold Wh a t must h a ve been the con di tion of the Offi cer soldier Europe a n or n a tive w ho w a s out on night duty whether in c amp or on the heights surroun d ing us or the feeling of the c a m p followers from Centr a l an d E a stern Indi a w ho ha d never before felt such we a ther Luckily r ain which me a nt snow in those hi gh regions kept a w a y a n d du ring .
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3 02
KHYB E R D EB AC LE
TH E
ox
.
x vx x x
residence a t M a id a n a n d B a gh w e h a rdly ha d a cloudy d a y the foreru nner of wet we a ther on the North Western Fro n tier of In di a For a few d a ys the c a mp w a s a nnoyed by prowlers fi ring in di scrimin a tely into it On the 9t h a bout thirty one represent a tives from the Afridis c a m e in to interview us a n d I w e nt a cross the r a vine to a l a rge buil di ng which ha d been set a p a rt for their a ccommod a tion One Old m a n of a bout seventy w ho a t one period of his existence ha d been in the ra nks of some regi ment Of our n a tive With the a rmy w a s kind enough to s a y to me exception of your fi e ld guns which w e h a ve not But m a n to m a n w e are a s good a s a ny of you t here w a s no ex a lt a tion in the minds a n d a ppe a r a nce Of a n y Af ridis th a t it w a s my luck to intervie w a n d converse with during the c a mp a ign In the fi rst b a tch th a t c a me in w ere four to fi v e of our old pen s ion e rs e a ch m a n with three or four med a ls pinned on to his left shoulder or slung round his neck records of t w enty to twenty fi v e ye a rs of devotion a n d service to the S a r ka r in a ll p a rts of the world Egypt Tel el Kebir Su a kim Were these the men a g a inst a n A fri di w a r w a nted to bring on w ho Engl a nd ? Their sm a ll pensions w ere the st a nd b y of their homes in their old a g e to secure whi ch they j ourneyed twice a ye a r to Pesh a wa r a n d every Afridi envied these Old veter a ns Their f a ces showed p a in a n d sorrow for they a n d the whole n a tion were a bout to su ffer for the fa ult a n d mischief of a r a sc a lly Mull a h On November 1 3 Gener al Ke m pster s brig a de w a s sent into W a ran Tira h a n d I w a s di rected to proceed with it a n d did so t a king fi v e of the Ak a Khel Afridi jirg a Our route l a y by the foot of the o ur
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3 04
K H YBER
TH E
DE BAC LE
ox
x vII I
.
midd a y I w a s a t Tseri K and a o a n d he a rd Colonel Abbott comm a nding the 15 t h Sik hs t a lking with Gener a l Kempster W hen I j oined the l a st n a med Offi cer a t the spot where the Z a kh a Khel h a mlets commenced due south Of the gun tree position on the S a r an S ar a scent w e felt a ssured th a t the Af ridis me a nt business At interva ls of fi fteen y a rds or so never together m a n a fter m a n w a s seen coming down we a ring the fla t skull c a p the pyj am a s knotted at the knee a n d the rifle c a rried in the us u a l w a y a n d a ll dis a ppe a ring behind a proj ecting hillock fa r up on the a scent November 1 9 s a w the He a dqu a rter C a mp moved to B a gh a n d t w o d a ys l a ter a t 6 P M intim a tion w a s conveyed to me th a t I w a s to proceed on the morrow with Sir Willi a m a n d p a rt of the He a dqu a rter St a ff About 8 A M on a n d Fourth B rig a de to D w a Toe November 2 2 Sir Willi am with his st a ff st a rted down this defi le a n d a very ra w cold evening w a s setting in when a fter w a ding some seventy times through icy cold wa ter we a t length re a ched the tower on the right b a nk of the B a r a stre a m which m a rks a n d gives the n ame (d iva two toe stre a ms) to the j unc tion Of the B a ra a n d the overflow from B a gh We soon found our c amp but our kit did not a rrive till the next d a y A good S a m a rit a n in th a t 3 PM gra nd regiment the King s Own Scottish Borderers dr a gged me over to his mess a n d g a ve me a cup of coco a a n d some food The gu a rd of the 3 rd Sikhs cooked some bre a d a n d from their slender stock brought wh a t they could for the wa nts of the Officers of the He a dqu a rter St a ff All th a t night with the thermometer something like 2 0 below freezing point A nnesley a n d I l a y to the leewa rd of a ro a ring fi re -
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C OL D
1897
CA MPA I G NIN G
3 05
trying to w a rm ourselves from the icy cold wind blowing h a rd from the snow cl a d S a fed Koh There w a s no res t fo r a n y of u S th a t night a n d gra du a ll y one by one a ll c a me a n d s at round the fi re a n d wa ited there till d a ybre a k The o fficers of the g a ve me some bre a k fa st a n d by 3 P M our things were in a n d we ha d a good lunch B ut by evening time the enemy got possession of a pe a k from which they plumped three bull ets into our fi re which then ha d to be put out However the night of the 2 3 rd p a ssed under better circumst a nces th a n the previous one On the 2 4 t h we j ourneyed b a ck to B a gh a strong wind blowing down this detest a ble di a bolic a l de file ; a n d so cold w a s it th a t the rushing w a ter froze on my pony s feet a n d fl a nks wherever it touched the a nim a l It w a s with some difficulty th a t I co ul d induce him t o fa ce the w a ter If a strong h a rdy a nim a l sm a rted under this cold wh a t must h a ve been the feelings of the dooley be a rers a n d the drivers who ha d lived a ll their lives in a wa rm clim a te ? I myself w a s compelled to get Off a n d for wa rmth s s a ke t a ke to the p a th which went up the hill on the right h a nd side but the country a n d the p a th were on a p a r Just before le a ving D w a — Toe th a t morning Lord Methuen ha d kin dl y given me four or fi v e sm a ll biscuits an d told me to put them into my pocket a s they might be of use on the j ourney b a ck W a lking up th a t b a d ro a d I c a me upon two or three men Of the who were on b agg a ge g u a rd a n d o ffered the biscuit s to one who seemed to be in ch a rge of the p a rty Bre a king e a ch into four sm a ll portions he g a ve o n e bit ( h ar dl y a bite ) to e a ch Of the escort c alling up t he rest who were in front to sh a re It w a s a generous u h -
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3 06
KH YB ER
TH E
D EB ACLE
on
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x vx x x
selfi sh a c t on his p a rt for he might h a ve put the lot into his pocket no one being a bit the wiser The ro a d w a s a s I h a ve s a id very b a d but when I w a s in di ffi culties over a n a st y bit of ground these men c a me b a ck a hundred ya rds to give me a helping h a nd Sir W Lockh a rt returned to B a gh on December 6 from his trip to the Ch a mp K a nni country a n d orders were issued for the Second Divi sion to m a rch to D w a Toe a g a in on the 7 t h a n d rem a in there on December This time there w a s no Opposition until 8 an d 9 D w a Toe w a s re a ched a n d for three d a ys a n d two nights not a shot w a s fi red in the defi le The Kuki Khel w ho ha d promised to meet us a t D w a Toe with their jirg a a n d h a nd over a s much of their fi n e in rifles a n d c a sh a s they possibly could w ere led a str a y a t the l a st moment by emiss a ries from the S a ngu Khel Shin w a ri country So they met us a s enemies inste a d of a s friends a n d su ffered for it severely in consequence December 10 s a w us m a rching down the B a ra V a lley the Fourth Brig a de in a dva nce w hilst the third took up the role of re a r gu a rd a n d our h a lt w a s S a nd a n a in Sip a h A fridi B a r a Clouds ha d at g a thered round conce a ling the mount ain tops a n d S light r a in fell during the night m a king it extremely unple a s a nt for those w ho ha d no shelter The morn ing of the 1l t h sunless a n d chilly s a w us m a rching through the Z a kh a Khel country to Sher Khel Killi in the limits Of the Ak a Khel a n d here w e h a lted for the 1 1t h a n d 1 2 t h to en a ble the brig a de to come up My n a tive a ssist a nt S a y a d Sec un d e r Sh ah a s very ha d a very n a rrow esc a pe 0 11 the l ot h a n d I W a s he w a s the son of a m a n a n x ious a bout him ,
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308
THE
KHYBER
D EB AC LE
on
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x vn r
clung to the re a rgu a rd until it w a s cle a r of the hills Here we rem a ined resting on December 14 15 a n d 1 6 a n d on the morning of the 1 7 th I su ffered the fi rst loss Of property during my eighteen y e a rs experience in the Kh yber—m y b a gg a ge pony a ch a rger b e longing to Colonel B a rrow a pony of C a pt ain Swan stone s a n d some mules ridden by sign all ers h a ving been a ppropri a ted by some clever Afridi thieves On the 1 7 t h w e moved to B a r a a n d a fter a few d a ys gra ce the First Division w a s concentra ted a t Al i Ma sjid on December 2 4 I ha d there the ple a sure of bein g introduced to Gener a l Sir H H a velock All a n w ho a rrived a t L a l a Chen a th a t evening Sir W Lock h a rt w a s going with his st a ff a n d Gener a l Ga s e l e e s brig a de to Chor a whilst Genera l Symons a n d G enera l H a rt V C with the First Brig a de were to proceed b y Il a ch a a n d spend Christm a s D a y a t Ka ra mn a At the l a st moment I w a s directed to proceed with t he K a r a mn a colum n The j ourney to K a r amn a w a s a trying one a s the ro a d w a s very b a d a n d it w a s l a te in the evening when we re a ched our go a l Genera l H a rt with the re a rgu a rd however did not come in till midd a y on the 2 6 t h Luckil y the m a rch to B a rg down a diffi cult defi le w a s not more th a n three miles a n d by sunset of the 2 6 t h the whole brig a de w a s united Our enc a mping ground w a s a be a utiful S po t with a cle a r stre a m of running w a ter a n d well covere d hills to the e a st a n d south just the pl a ce suit a bl e for Afridi sh a rpshooters b ut h a ppily we were not much troubled by them We rem a ined a t B a rg till the morning of the 2 8t h when w e retr a ced our step s to K a r amn a a n d I p a ssed a n exceedingly trying d ay with fever a n d a gue on me The r a in too kept pour in g down till the time of our dep a rture for Al i M a sjid
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DEA TH
1 897
OF SI R HA
VEL OC K A LL AN
3 09
which w a s re a ched a bout 1 P M on the 2 9th The e nemy w a s a s a ctive a s ever a n d followed up our re a rgu a rd to within y a rds Of the c a mp The usu a l Ali M a sj id wind w as blowing a torn a do down t he P a ss a n d the fl a pping of the tent s m a de our but the next morning rep a id us for r est unple a s a nt with a cle ar sky overhe a d a n d no wind to trouble took up our a nyone we m a rched to J a mrud a n d qu a rters there until the Afridis complied with the Those who co ul d a n d were o rders of Government permitted to dep a rt b a de fa rewell to the regions of the Khyber R a nge I went into Pesh a wa r a bout m idda y on December 3 1 but ha d been b a rely there t w o hours when a n urgent St a te telegr a m w a s h a nded to me inform ing m e th a t Sir H a velock All a n w a s missing a n d th a t I w a s to proceed a t once to Al i Ma sj id to m a ke inquiries a s to wh a t ha d become of him a n d if found a live to bring him b a ck However before my tong a ha d p a ssed the limits Of Pesh a w a r C antonments en r ou te to J amrud I met a nother t ong a under a c av a lry escort c a rrying in the de a d body of the unfortun a te Gener a l I continued my j ourney to J a mrud whence in due time I reported for the inform a tion of Sir Willi a m Lockh a rt a ll th a t I could le a rn reg a rdi ng the de a th of the g a ll a nt officer I ha d done the whole of the Tira h c a mp a ign on foot ( except a bout three miles through w a ter on horse b a ck) a n d the result w a s th a t I enj oyed most excellent he alth Whilst we were on the move NOW my duties a t J a mrud confi ned me to a sm a ll room a n d the A fridi jirg a s There w a s no rest from 6 A H till 1 2 m idnight I di d my utmost to prevent a spring c a m p aig n for I knew th a t if one w a s necess a ry it would .
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3 10
TH E KH YBER D EBAC LE
on
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x vm
l a st to the following November costing millions in mone y a n d m a ny lives My whole tho u ghts a n d energies were therefore devoted to the est a blishment of a perm a nent pe a ce All the n a tive A fridi officers from the v a rious regiments who ha d come up to Ja mrud to a ssist me especi a lly Sub a d a r M a j or Y a sin Kh a n a ll the he a dm en a n d j irg a s of the v a riou s Afridi tribes C a pt a in B a rton my n a tive a ssist a nt S ec u n d e r Sh a h a ll worked might a n d m a in to give me a helping h a nd towa rds this obj ect Genera l Symons com m a nding the First Division Tira h Expedition a ry Force a n d Genera ls G a s el e e a n d H a rt comm a nding the Second a n d First B rig a des rendered every support Wh a t with thre a ts on the one h a nd a n d honest e a rnest exertions of the elders of the tribe on the other the wished for result ensued on April 2 1898 the A fri di fi n e in rifles a n d c a sh w a s p a id up a n d the spring c a mp a ign prevented j ust in I t w a s the exertions of other s the nick of time which produced this h a ppy result Without such exertions my work would h a ve been in v a in I h a ve no desire to write a word on the m ilit a ry portion of the Tir a h c a mp a ign for th a t is a subj ect I do not pretend to criticise B ut p a r a 2 of the Speci a l Order d a ted C a mp Pesh a wa r April 4 18 98 puts the m a tter a dmira bly ,
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1897
3 11
A FRID I ORDERL IES
FA I TH F U L
i n f c t li tt l e h w t t i t r l T r a i h d w n i n w o a and t o n am p n g h o l c f u a e c s h m t t e o r t F r r h o c e t fo e or n o ed e a sc m o f fi re n n r i r y p r r tt r n l o t o ll o e ng g e n e d b o u n g g g a c cu r a t e s m o t h e h i v i r wi t d t m e n k m e s m l in d d u a
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The Tira h c a mp a ign brought out the fi nest qu a li ties of the British o fficer a n d British soldier a n d of their comp a nions of the N a tive Army a n d Imperi a l Troops An d this c a mp a ign m a de me respect the Afridi gre a tly not only a s enemies but a s friends a lso I ha d good re a son to do so From the fi rst week in October 1897 to April 5 1898 I ha d with me four Afridi orderlies from the Khyber Rifles w ho a cted a lso a s guides or scouts a n d were continu a lly being requisitioned for th a t purpose Al l proved fa ithful a n d loy a l a lthough working a g a inst their own country men One of them broke down from pneumoni a but the others continued to do the trying an d perilous duties required of them They would often go out of their own a ccord to g a ther inform a tion a n d frequently returned with their clothes rid d led with bull et holes proofs of the wonderful esc a pes they ha d ha d When it is remembered th a t they were liter a lly c arrying their lives hourly in their h a nds an d knew the cruel cert a in fa te which a wa ited them if they were t a ken prisoners I do not think th a t I ex a gger a te in s aying th a t such loy a lty to the S a rk a r deserved recognition a n d th a t no men better e a rned the Victori a Cross or the Milit a ry Order of Merit th a n these But they got nothing The true politic a l history of the c a mp a ign co ul d only be written by one m an — Sir Willi a m Lockh a rt who comm a nded the Tir a h Expedition a ry Force Without his express s a nction I would not venture to ,
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3 12
THE
KH YBER
DEB AC L E
cu
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x vn r
tresp a ss on such ground I h a ve ha d the privilege of knowing m y chief for thirty one ye a rs since w e fi rst met in Abyssini a in 186 8 However much I respected a n d honoured him a s a soldier a n d a s a Gener a l this c a mp a ign of 189 7 — 1898 ha s in my mind doubly ende a red him to a ll who ha d the privi lege of closel y w a tching a n d knowing wh a t he di d a n d wh a t he ha d to go through With sincere th a nks t o him to Gener a l Sir W G Nicholson Colonel B a rrow C a pt a in H a ld a ne a n d a ll the He a dqu a rter St a ff w ho so helped me in my l a bours I close my c ontribution to the Khyber D é b d cl e a n d it s c o n s e .
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qu e n c e s
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FRONTIER
3 14
P OLI C Y
on
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x Ix
during the period of their rule under men like Genera l Av it a b ili a n d others is known only to the very fe w survivors of those d a y s but the e ffect of their h a rsh rule w a s to bring into the fi eld a g a inst them men like S y a d Ahm a d Sha h the he a d a n d founder of the Hindust a ni F a n a tics a n d to fi ll the independent hills in cert a in loc a lities with enemies men of influence a n d position—a round whom r a llied a ll the Mull a hs a n d dis a ffected r a sc a ls in the district The Sikhs on their p a rt l a ter on were compelled to employ Arb ab s or mid dl emen a s g o — betweens a n d f a rmers of revenue The l a st me a sure often s aved them from h a ving to move out a force when the h a rvests were being g a thered in in order to secure the quot a of revenue due from some dist a nt powerful rec a lcitr a nt vill a ge close to the independent and borderl a nd Of this A rb a b cl a ss w a s Mir B a bu of C ha rg u ll a i a le a ding m a n of the Sudum Va lle y bor d eri n g on the powerful Buner country— the f a ther of Aj a b Kh a n whose c a reer a n d ultim a te fa te ha s a lre a dy been described in a previous ch a pter When we broke the Sikh power a n d took from them the di stricts which constitute H a z a ra a n d those a cross the Indus we took a lso upon our shoulders for the time being a ll the herit a ge of a ntip a thy a n d h a tred which Sy a d Ahm a d Sh a h s descend a nts the Mull a h le a ders a n d refugee not a bles ha d for the cruel Sikh W e were on tri a l a n d the Afgh a n w a r of 1839—4 2 w a s not forgotten but hung in the b a l a nce a g a inst our record Fortun a tely for the P a nj a b a n d the North Western Frontier—b y which n a me I a lw a ys me a n here H a z a r a Pesh a wa r Koh a t B a nnu a n d the Tr a ns Indus portions of B a nnu a n d Der a Ism a il ,
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SI R H ENRY
1898
3 15
L AWRENC E
Khan also Der a Gh a zi Kh a n —there h a ppened t o a a d n be a t th at tim e alive a in c onsider ble power gre at and good m an known as Sir Henry L awr ence Not only w a s he person a lly an d priv ately good a n d m arvellous d h a f ci lly gre t but he the n m a a a o fi a instinct of selecting for pos itions of trust a n d impor t ance the most a ble a nd c a p a ble men a s subordin a tes f fi s a h ving m de his selection he g ve such o cer a a an d his very g re atest con fi dence a n d a dv a nced their interests with might an d m a in whenever a n d where ever he ha d a n opportunity of doing so No success however gre a t on the p a rt of a j unior oflfic er cre a ted ul a rly i a p ng of j e lousy in the he rt of th s sing a a any pure mind ed gentlem a n The g re a ter the succes s or repute the more did the he a rt of Sir Henry Law rence rej oice It w as to this w ise instinct of selection th at Frederick Ma ckeson Herbert Edw a rdes J a me s Abbott George L a wrence Jo hn Nicholson H a rry Lumsden an d others were pl a ced on duty on the fron tier a t a time when gre a t men were wa nted there in order to meet a nd to overcome diffi culties with a tight and yet a kindly h a nd M a c ke so n s reput a tion ha d been m a de during the first Af gh a n w ar a n d he w a s in fame perha ps the g re a test Englishm a n who ever serve d on th at frontier I go by n a tive evidence a n d opin ion which is a lwa ys a good st a nda rd to j udge by an d the n ame and ch a ra cter of M a ckeson a re a t this moment a s fresh on the Pesh a w a r Border a n d the Kh yber Range a s if he ha d p a ssed a wa y but yesterd a y Y et Frederick M a ckeson died over forty five ye ars a g o and his history has not been written either by one of hi s own countrym en or by a n A si a tic to rec a ll wh a t he did a n d how he a cted an d how he m a de himself love d ,
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FRONTIER POLIC Y
3 16
cx
a nd
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x xx
respected by the robber cl a ns a n d tribesmen of the K hyber J ames Abbott w a s a nother modest good , gre a t m an His control of the H a z a r a District at a p eriod when the Sikh power w a s up in a rms a g a inst the a uthority of John Comp a ny is well kn own In 18 5 7 the tribesmen of the B l a ck Mount ain a t the request of Colonel Beecher turned on the Sepoy mutineers w ho esc a ping from M a rd a n before the furious a tt a ck of Genera l John Nicholson ha d t a ken s helter in Sw a t in Bunnu a n d ha d crossed the river Indus to the left b a nk These Sepoys were either killed or driven b a ck a cross the river or h anded over a s p risoners to the B ri tish a uthorities J a mes Abbott s influence over the H a z a r a mount a ineers c a used them to a tt a ck our enemies a n d tre a t them in this fa shion Let a n y one now go a n d a sk whether the procedure an d rule of the l a ter P a nj a b school of Deputy Commissioners in H a z a r a could produce a simil a r result a mongst the tribes Of the Bl a ck M ount a in In 1897 a fter the f all of the Khyber P a ss into the h a nds Of the Mull a h Afridi l a shk ar a n d the burning a n d destruction of a ll our posts forts ser a is & c I ha p pened to be w a lking one morning from Kulda nn a to the post offi ce at Murree Two very old men were walking a he a d of me an d he a ring the n a me Abbott repe a ted time a fter time curiosity induced me to j oin in their convers a tion a n d a s k of whom they were t alking a n d They were both residents w ho they themselves were an d one ha d been in the o f the H a z a r a District police a t the time when J ames Abbott w a s Deputy Com missioner a n d the second m a n ha d also been in To my inquiries t he ser vice in some other c a p a city ‘ they both s aid Abbott S a hib w a s loved in the dis ,
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FRONTIER POLIC Y
3 18
ox
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x xx
and
middl emen whom they could supervise e ffec t u ally worked wonders in checking crime a n d bring i n g under proper co n trol their troublesome districts The h a rsh rule of the Sikh ha d been repl a ced by the kind j ust an d firm government of John Comp a ny c a rried out under the m a n a gement of most c a p a ble o flice rs a n d one of the best signs of the ch a nge w a s seen in some eleven hundred men of the Malik di n Khel Afri di s m a rching in to help one of our di strict The s am e good o fli cers a g a inst a common enemy sign w as noticed a t the commencement of our troubles in the gre a t In di a n Mutiny of 185 7 But from its fi rst institution the Arb a b or middlem a n system between the di strict o fficer a n d the tr a ns border tribesmen w a s a mist a ke a n d should never h a ve been continued It might h a ve a nswered for a period when the Europe an offi ci a l knew his work thoroughly a n d ha d time and power to control his a gent but this w a s not a lwa ys pos sible From its very origin it w a s a n error to h a ve a llowed it an d a s I go on I sh a ll try a n d prove in a few words th a t from Agror round the border to the southernmost p a rts of the Koh a t District the mid dl e m a n ha s been the c a use of ne a rly every di s a greement a n d of much of the bloodshed between the British Government a n d the s a va ges of the Independent Hills In the fi rst ye a rs of our rul e on the North West Frontier of the P a nj ab our district oflic e rs do not a ppe a r to h a ve compl a ined of overwork a n d w a nt of time to mix with the people a n d le a rn their customs The system of procedure in those d a ys a n d w a ys w a s exceedingly simple a n d brief a n d the work w a s done quickly s a tisfa ctorily to the people an d without ,
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LORD
1 898
MI NU TE
L YTTON S ’
3 19
those endl ess a ppe a ls which the n a tives reg a rd a s a n evil in these times Then c a me the Mutiny which unhinged for ye a rs the civ il system of the province When th a t c a t a strophe w a s tided over a n d more pe a ceful times c a me in then the l a wyers commenced to pour in codes en a ctments procedure rules &c to torment the he a rt a n d mind of the frontier offi ci a l ; a n d then c a me the fi rst growl from one of our a blest men ( there m a y h a ve been compl a ints before but I h ave ha d no opportunity of seeing them ) the l ate Maj or J a mes Commissioner of Pesh a wa r 186 4 which is given in p a r a 6 2 Of the a bout 186 1— Reorg a nis a tion of the Frontier Minute by the l a te Lord Lytton then Viceroy of Indi a It is d a ted April 22 18 7 7 a n d I give it here in full ,
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I n t he first pl a c e , t hen , I hin k it shou ld b e our a im t o c ul i a e m o e d i ec t an d fre u e n in t erc o ur s e t ha n a t p es en t e x is t s b e t w e e n o ur s e lve s a n d t he ib e s on o u r b o d e s I ha e al e a d ha d oc c a sion t o Ob s er e m ore ha n o n c e , wha t I c an n o t oo o f e n ep e a t in e fere n ce t o t his s u b j e c t t ha i is t o t he e fle c t of t he st raigh fo w a rd , up igh , a n d d is in e e s e d a c io n o f E n g lis h ge n l e m en , a n d t o t he in flu e n c e w hich highe m e n a l p o w e a n d c ul ur e n eve fa il t o e x e rt ove t hos e w ho are b ou gh m u c h in c on t a c wi h he m , ra he ha n t o s u p e i ori in fi gh in g p owe a n d a pplia n c e s , ha I a rib u e B i i s h s u p em a c in I n d i a , a s w e ll a s t he
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r t t t t rt r ty t r t t tt t r t r y e ptio na l u cce s o f B i ti sh rul in a ll qu a rt e rs o f t he I f p r s on l h r c t e r a n d influ en ce b e t he p ow e r fu l g l ob e ngine I b li ve t h m t o b e i t is d e i r a b l e t h t t hei r fo r c e hou ld b e e r ci se d a c on s t a n t ly a n d d ir c tly a s p o s ib l e F or t hi am on g o t he r r a on I prop o s t he app o i n t m en t o f a C hie f C om mi ss ion r t P e s h w r inve s t e d wi t h ex cept i on lly high p ow e r s w ho c n r ep s n t t o t he n t iv m in d m ore d irec t ly n d p r on lly t h n i t h r t he L i u t n n t Govern o r at L ho r e o the s till m o r d i t n t V i e r oy t C al u t t a t he e m b o d ie d p ow r n d d ig n ity of t h B r i t i h x ce
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FRONTIER POLIC Y
3 20
ex
x 1x
.
Go v rnm en t F thi r o l I p r pose t o in crea s e t h d m in i tr tive t ff o f d i v i i n n d d istr ic t s o tha t t he C m m i s io r nd D p ty C o m m i i r r li v d f m u h pu r ly r u t in w r k m y h v m o r tim fo v i it in g l ly a d b om in g p r q in t d w it h t h ir trou b l s m ig hb ou r b u t n t hop l ly u n m ag b le I h v b e fo r f r m r ly C m m i s i n e r m n ow m in u t b y M j r J m l t f t hi r t en y r fr n h w r i w hi h th r of P t i r pe ri n e h p r e s s him s lf m o t tro n gly t o t h p r oper in t r o u r s b lu t im p os sib il ity o f om b in in g r d in ry w i th t h cu t i w i t h t h b o r d r tr ib o f hi i v il d u ti t— Gove rn o r n d L r d T he t hen L i u t L w r n ce hin t d i d d t h t t hi in co m p t ib ility o f fu n t ion w s M j r J m e s o w n f u l t y t f om ll qu r t er I t an d m o t h r M j o r Ja m es p k n o f s of t h ab l t i r h k n w n n d on w h a d m ini tr t o r t h fr a c t iv r b fr hi u n t im ly d th h d b r illi n t b ut f e
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Here w e notice for the fi rst time a compl a int m a de by a n excee di ngly a ble m a n a most competent the gentlem a n who c a rried out a n d c a p a ble writer the fi rst summ a ry Revenue settlement of the Pesh a wa r Va lley a n d wrote a history of its residents a n d neighbours which will a lw a y s be a st a nd a rd work of reference M aj or J a mes Commissioner of the Pesh a wa r Division a t a very tryin g period solemnly a sserts th a t he could not c a rry on his ordin a ry civil duties a n d keep up a proper intercourse with the border tribes He wrote this evidently between 186 0 an d 186 4 In those ye a rs the Chief Court of the P a nj a b ha d not been est a blished a t L a hore The Civil a n d Crimin a l Procedure Codes the J a il M a nu a l a n d Prisons Ac t Municip a l L a ws a n d Regul a tions Revenue Ac t a n d Rules pert a ining to the s a me a n d the thous a nd a n d one other Act s Regul a tions a n d Rules which now cling ,
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FRONTIER POLIC Y
322
ex
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x xx
chose to produce before me Affa irs pert a ini n g to Swa t were in the ch a rge of a young Kh a n who m a n a ged them so well th a t in 18 7 7 th a nks to his exertio n s the Ottom a n represent a tives w ho went to see the Akhund a t S a idu were turned b a ck a n d stoned a n d t a unted with being spies of the B ritish Govern ment L a ter on when w e were on the verge of w ar with the l a te Amir Sher Ali Kh a n a letter w a s written by this young reprob a te to Sherdil Kh a n of Al a d a n d a sking the Sw a tis to cre a te a disturb a nce in their qu a rter This letter w a s secured a n d t a ken to the l a te M aj or Sir L C a v ag n a ri in 18 7 8 The s a me middlem a n a gency w a s emplo y ed in working the U tm a n Khe l s a n d the M ohm a n d s The Kh a lil Arb a b ha d politic a l ch a rge of the M u ll a g oris A fri di Shinwa ri tribe s of the Khyber R a nge T he an d Mohm a nd chief looked a fter the Ak a a n d A d a m Khel A fridis B a h a dur Sher Kh a n B a ng a sh ha d the Koh a t P a ss The Kh a ns of H a ngu p a id speci a l the Or a kz a i cl a ns on the Mira nz a i a ttention to Va lley Border This system w a s evidently a t the zenith Of its power whe n Lord Lytton wrote the minute to which I h a ve a lre a dy dra wn a ttention for p a r a 6 3 of the s a me desp a tch is thus worded .
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e a s on s g i e n a b o e I hin k ha t he Ag ain , fo r t he s ho u l d b e d i s c o n o f Ar b a b s o r m id d l e m e n e m p l o m en I d o n o t m s e lf b e lie e ha i t in u e d a s m u c h a s p o s s ib le hu s e n g he n s o u r ho l d e e n up o n t he s m a ll c l a s s w e s m a n g a ifi e d b y e m pl o m e n a ho s F or e e e m pl o him a n d o urs e l e s T he e I s o f j e a l o u s ie s a re a ise d a g a in s ha he s e p e s on a g e s a re n ot a l o g e he e a s on t o fe a s om e in c a p a b le o f p o ok in g or p om o in g d iffic ul ie s on t he f o n ie in t he hop e o f in c re a s in g hei o w n im p o a n c e a n d t he p olic e a u ho i ie s a t P e s ha w a ha e n o w a s c e ain e d u st ed b ov e n t ha t on e of t he Arb a b s m os y t he P a n j a b
y
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r t r
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v ry r t r t rt tt r r v r t t r t rt r v t tr
y v
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v t t t t t t r t t r rt G r
H EA
1 898
t
V Y W ORK
A ND
323
rryin g on a few m on t hs g with pers on s in C a ub u l w hi
t ha t fron t ier w as t re a s on a b l e c orre spon d en c e
m en
DIFFIC ULTIES
ca
on
a
o a
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ch
thing b ut the m an s d th e ab le d us t o d e tect I a d m it w e v r t hat t here are m n y oc c as ion s on whic h t he se rvic e s ’
no
n
ea
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a e , ho o f Arb ab s have b een , an d m a y a g a in b e , m o s t va lu ab l e t o u s , in Op ening co mm un ic a ion wit h front ier t rib es ; e spec ia ll he ir s e rvic e s c an b e d i s pe n se d b ut I t hink t hat when eve w i h, a n d d irec c om m u n ic a io n o p e n e d or m ain a in e d b y E ven if w e c ou ld ou r o wn a ut horit ie s , t hi s s ho u ld b e d o n e o f Arb a b s , he se m e n a lw a s d ep en d on t he a b s o l u t e l o a l t o t he n a ive t he s a m e c le a r i d e a o f o u r c o nve c ann o iew s an d charac er t hat he wo u l d g ain b y p ers on a l in e
y
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c o u se
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y ty
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i ish offic e r s
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I h a ve used the words hemmed in by he a vy work and it is no ex a gger a tion a n d immense d iffic u lt ie s When your work is of a n a ture th a t t o write so keeps you occupied from 10 A M to ne a rly 7 P M a n d often up to midnight there is little time left to interview an d mix with the people under your ch a rge or to a ssociate yourself with their feelings When o u t in c amp in the di strict the ch a nces of seeing the hea dmen of vill a ges an d l a ndowners were incre a sed but wh at prospect ha d the civil o fficer of le a rni ng the cha ra cters of these m en The tim e a t his di spos a l w a s limited His d aily routine work ha d to be c a rried out nolens volen s whether he intervi ewed people or not ; and by the t im e he beg a n t o know something of the district an d it s people ten to one th a t he found himself tra nsferred to some other ch a rge The s a me rem arks will a pply to interviewing the j irg a s ( council of elders) of the independent countries a n d hills a dj oin ing your ch a rge If the speci a l tribe concerned had com mitted some outra ge necessit a ting their council being summoned to your he a dqu a rters thi s work ha d to be c a rried out through the Kh a n ’
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FRONTIER POLI C Y
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politic a l m a n a gement of th a t border He selected a n d brought in those men whom it ple a sed him to produce before you They were genera lly in di vidu a ls w ho were tied to his fortunes in some w a y I c a n a nswer for myself th a t time a fter time a t Hoti M a rd a n the presence of these hill men w a s obnoxious to me ; they took up my time a n d in spite of m y comm a nd of the Persi a n a n d P a shtu l a ngu a ges I felt th a t I could do no good with them The ch ange a fter Aj a b Kh a n s dis a ppe a r a nce improved m a tters for then I got a cqu a inted with a n d w a s permitted t o kno w the le a ding men in Buner an d in October 187 8 they m a de overtures to help us a g a inst the then A mir of A fgh a nist a n With a ll m y desire to mix with the tr a ns border men however the Opportunit y a n d wh a t is more the time—to do so w a s w a nting It f a ct it w a s a n impossibilit y B etween the ye a rs 18 7 O a n d 18 7 9 when I j oine d the Khyber a ppointment I noticed no a ttempt m a de to do a w a y with the middlem a n a gency T a king over the Khyber R a nge a n d the tribe s concerned in its m a n a gement a n d pl a cing them directly under a B ritish o fi c er coupled with t he de a th of Arb a b M aj id Kh a n a n d his son Ar b a b F u t e h Muh a mm a d Kh a n a t this j uncture deprived the Khyber of a ll Kh a lil interference in its a ffa irs a n d up to Jul y 11 1897 no Kh a lil mid dl em a n w a s per The dr owning m it t e d to h a ve a ny voice in my work of Arb a b S a rfa ra z Kh a n in 1886 —8 7 took the Ak a a n d A d a m Khel A fri di s out of the h a nds of the Mohm a nd chiefs an d the de a th of B a h a dur Sher Kh a n B a ng a sh removed a nother Obst a cle from the Koh a t P a ss Then c a me the deport a tion of Muz a ffa r Kh a n of H a ngu a n d his son B a zgul Kh a n to L a hore .
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FRONTIER POLI C Y
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did excellent work in Koh a t a s Comm a nd a nt of B order Police a fter he ha d become a cqu a inted w ith the people a n d a fter m a ny ye a rs residence there but just when his st a y would h a ve been still more u s e fu l t o Government he w a s tr a nsferred to the Khyber The s a me ch a nges tr a nsfers &c occurred in other pl a ces but to dwell more on this subj ect would be t o u nd u ly lengthen this ch a pter render it more and tedious to the English re a der The P a nj a b policy then from 18 7 0 to the tim e of my dep a rture from Pesh a w a r on April 15 1898 is in principle the s a me policy which worked well enough on the North West Frontier when selected men were a ppointed to the H a z a ra a n d the Tr a ns In di a n districts It worked excellently so long a s the men were s elec ted a n d ha d time to c a rry on their ordin a ry civil duties a n d some leisure to cultiv a te more direct a n d frequent intercourse with British subj ects unde r their ch a rge a n d with the independent tribesmen But a time c a me when selection a cross the border —entire selection— w a s set a side a n d the enormous growth Of civil work tied the district Offi cer to his desk a l l d a y a n d b a rred his ch a nce of b e c o m ing a cqu a inted with the fi rst a n d prevented all intercourse wi th the second Lord Lytton a s Viceroy a n d Gov ernor Genera l of In di a ha d m a de up his mind to a ppl y the knife to this m a l a dy ha d fully determined to sep a r a te H a z a r a and P esh a w a r Koh a t B a nnu Der a Ism a il Kh a n Der a Gh a zi Kh a n with the exception Of the Cis Indus portions of B a n n u a n d Der a Ism a il Kh a n from the P a nj a b Province Everything w a s re a dy prep a red when the wretched Afgh a n c a mp a ign 1880 too k pl a ce ruined a ll ch a nces of of 187 8— ’
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1898
NTROD U CTION OF C H IE F C O U RT
32 7
progress a nd sent Lord Lytton b a ck t o Engl a nd Since then no ruler of Indi a ha s a ttem pted t o re open this very import a nt question The Old P a nj a b pol icy beg a n to totter in the Sixties an d a fi tting l a n dm a rk would be the ye a r which s aw the introduction of the Chief Court into the province A ye ar or so on this side or th a t of the period need not be t a ken into much a ccount The we a kness w a s di scovered a n d pointed out by a very a ble Frontier Com mi ssioner but the subj ect w a s pooh poohed set a side a n d the Pa nj a b o ffici als ha d little opportunity of le a rning Maj or Hugh J a mes s opinions on thi s im port a nt subj ect Another diffi culty beg a n gra du a lly to m a ke its a ppe a ra nce a n d t hi s w a s th a t two m a sters ha d now to be considered in the la nd of the fiv e rivers The Chief Court insisted on its j u di cial work being done promptly in a ccord a nce with the strict lines of procedure a n d rules l a id down by it whilst the pe a ce Of the frontier required the services of a good S trong a dm inistra tor who knew the people a nd their w a ys a n d a m an of thi s c a libre w as of fa r hi gher v a lue to Government th a n the frontier la wyer Moreover it w a s not a lwa ys possible to secure the a tt a inments of a good l a wyer a n d a good frontier o ffi cer being combined in one a n d the s ame person But both requirements ha d to be considered an d this a dded a fresh link of we a kness to the ch a in an d a s this we a kness incre a sed ye a r by ye ar so did the necessity for a ch a nge come more prominently into view An d H E Lord L yt ton w a s very ne a r the m a rk when he wa nted this frontier cha nge to be c a rried out in the ye a r 18 7 7 or 18 7 8 I would even prefer pl a cing the ye a r a s 18 7 9—Le a fter the sign ature of the Tre a ty of G an d a m a k — for .
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FRONTIER POLI CY
32 8
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then the B elu c his t a n Agency w a s secured The Khyber ha d been t a cked on to the P a nj a b ch a rge under circumst a nces a lre a dy rel a ted a n d the f a te Of Kurr a m t a ken a w a y from Afgh a nist a n ha d to be disposed of There w a s thus the cert a inty of a l a rge incre a se Of responsibility a n d work on the a lre a dy he a vily burdened Pa nj a b Province a n d then w a s the proper time to h a ve c a rried out the Frontier Sep a ra tion Scheme I am a gre a t opponent of the n a tive Arb a b or middl em a n a gency in de a ling wi th our tra ns border neighbours I h a ve the gre a test reg a rd for our A si a tic brethren a s sol di ers a n d in a ny c a p a city th a t it ple a ses Government to employ them except this one which I would prefer seeing in the h a nds of English men a lone wherever the y could be usefully an d s a fely employed An Englishm a n will never intrigue with the tra ns border tribesmen a g a inst his ow n Govern ment a n d my experience of the A si a tic is th a t he is cert a in to do so if he c a n better himself or inj ure an enemy or a riv a l by so doing The procedure in this is very e a sy to c a rry out a n d extremely difficult to detect an d punish therefore the s a fer side is to a void a ll risk a n d employ a n Englishm a n a lone keeping the n a tive the m an usu a lly worked in such di lemm a s If a n English o ffi cer ha d been fa r in the b a ckground a ppointed to do solely politic a l work in the di strict s of Ha z a ra Pesh a wa r Koh a t &c m a ny ye a rs a g o wh a t a number of frontier complic a tions a n d wa rs a n d c onsequent expenditure of blood a n d money , might h ave been a voided & I spe a k in the s a me l a ngu a ge of the middl em a n who a s chief or M a lik of the tribe is a ccepted by us a s the g O between with his people a n d the India n .
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M a iz a r in 1897 a n d l a ter on in the Afridi a n d Or a k z a i countries previous to the Oper a tions which led to a n a dv a nce into the he a rt of Tir a h There a re o fficers in the P a nj a b Government or serving under it w ho m a y s ay th a t the employment of English o fficers to do a ll the politic a l work on the frontier is Obj ection a ble on two grounds ( 1) expense ( 2 ) their incomp a tibilit y to mix with the tr a ns border m a n a n d underst a nd his w a ys There is no very gre a t d ifi c ult y in a nswering these questions First a s reg a rds expense this m a y be gre a ter th a n in emplo ying solely the Arb a b a n d mid dl em a n a gency but if w a r a n d bloodshed c a n be a voided by utilisin g the services Of selected English gentlemen wh a tever expenditure is i n curred is cert a inly well spent Wh a t ha s been the a ggreg a te cost of the w a rs on th a t P a nj a b Frontier ? Twenty millions thi rty milli ons sterling ? W ho c a n tell the full a mount a n d tot a l up the interest a lone on the full c a pit a l Of co s t in order to strike a profi t a n d loss a ccount But let me try a rough guess — work a vera ge from the l a te Af ridi Or a kz a i a n d Mohm a nd w a r to Show wh a t our losses in one di rection h a ve been The cost of keeping the Khyber P a ss Open deducting the g a in in octroi in the good ye a rs before H H the Am ir da m a ged the tra de of A fgh anist a n w a s ne a rly rupees—put it a t for a rgument s s a ke If the w a r cost one million sterling only the interest on this a t three per ru p e e s = t w 0 a n d a cent comes to qu a rter times the cost of keeping the Khyber open If the w a r expenditure w a s incre a sed to two or three millions sterling the interest would be a ugmented to rupees rupees a n d this would en a ble the P a nj a b Govern ,
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1898
WIT H
TRA NS B ORDER
3 31
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ment to m a inta in four a n d a h alf or six a n d thre e fourths Khyber Pa sses open a long their frontier on the interest a lone of the money spent on such w ar But sometimes a cts a re c a rri ed out which seem un a ccount a ble My n a tive a ssist a nt whose s anc t ion e d p a y w as 5 00 rupees a month ha d to be sent a wa y in 189 2 for const a nt intriguing with M a liks a ft er M a lik Am in Kh a n s esc a p a de ha d d a m a ged him for good But all my a ttempts to get him repla ced by a Europe a n a lthough his employment did not c ause a pennyworth s incre a se in the s a nctioned expen di ture met with the gre a test opposition I wrote for ne a rly a ye a r a n d never getting a reply I determined to do without the n a tive a ssist a nt for the time being I believe my p a pers never p a sse d Pesh a wa r towa rds L a hore Sim il a r rem a rks will apply to the milit a ry o fficer whose a ppointment w a s approved of a n d submitted by the P a nj a b Government either a t t he close of 189 1 or the commencement of 1892 a n d whi ch received the s a nction of the Govern ment of Indi a an d the S ecret a ry of St a te for Indi a in Council He w a s to h a ve le a rnt hi s work , a n d t aken my pl a ce when I retired in July 1897 But where w a s he when thi s period a rri ved I now co m e to the question of the incomp a tibility of the English Officer mixing with the tr a ns borde r I thi nk thi s sub man an d underst a nding hi s w a ys ject is not understood by the offi ci als w ho believe in th a t theory Mixing with the untr a ined S a v a ge of the hill s does not m e a n th a t you a re to live w ith the m an or sh a re the s a me house with him or p art a ke of food from the one pla tter Al l th a t the Englishm a n need do is to enc amp in his own tent w ith his o w n st a ff of serv a nts wherever he c a n do so .
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FRONTIER POLI C Y
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with perfect s a fety If he ha s qu a rters or a house to r eside in so much the better In the e a rly mornings before Office work ha s commenced or in the evenings when the d a y s work is over let him w a lk out or Sit o utside his qu a rters a n d a llow a n y a n d ever y s a v a ge to come a n d sit down in the a ssembly a n d j oin freely in the convers a tion th a t m a y be going on The s a me t hing c a n be done a t Pesh a wa r or a n y frontier C a n but I h a ve found it to a nswer best t on m e n t st a tion in the country of the independent hillm a n in his own home When some confi dence ha s been a ssured these men will spe a k of their customs their feuds or friendships a n d of wh a t is going on a mongst them inform a tion which is not only extremel y interesting but of gre a t service for the future to the Englishm a n The germs of confi dence once est a blished w ho listens a midst these people a lw a ys be a r fruit a n d incre a se a s I h a ve found out a n d the English o ffi ci a l is tre a te d with fa r gre a ter deference an d respect th a n by the British n a tive subj ect of Pesh a wa r R a w a l Pin di or of Af ter twenty nine ye a rs ex a n y other p a rt of Indi a p e rie n c e Of Pesh a w a r the B ritish n a tive subj ect would h a ve stolen the l a st co a t Off my b a ck if he ha d seen a ch a nce of doing it with s a fety In the Khyber Hills at L a n di Kot a l Tor S a pp a r Shilm a n v a lleys &c wherever my c a mp h a ppened to be it w a s a point of honour with the independent hillm a n th a t nothing An d the s a me security w a s ever removed from it w a s a ssured to a n d secured to every visitor Euro pe a n or n a tive I a d mit th a t there is a nother side to this picture which is not quite so rose a te To go a n d live in those hills for a ny length of time me a ns to the a ver a ge Englishm a n & consider a ble person a l d a nger an d risk .
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nly t a ke the frontier m a n a gement into its own h ands The P a nj ab system ha s f a iled a fter a tri a l o f ne a rly h a lf a century It is a m a tter for some wi se expert to decide when the term Forwa rd Policy fi rst c a me in to fa shi on a n d wh a t it re a lly me a ns Does it cover the period when the British power first went a cross the Indus in its tide of a nnex a tion a n d con quest a ft er the fa ll of Did it come into use between the ye a rs t he Sikhs 188 5 a n d April 189 3 when Lord Roberts w a s Comm a nder in Chief Of the a rmy in Indi a ? C an it be put down to the da te when Colonel Al gy Dur a nd Or w a s it w a s sent to re open the Gilgi t Agency ? fi rst m a de use of a fter Sir M Dura nd ha d m a de hi s Am ir Abdur R a hm a n Kh a n a greement with E H dem a rc a ting the Afgh a n a n d British spheres of influence in November 18 9 3 ? If the question were put to the British public a s to wh a t the Forwa rd Policy is a n d who in a ugur a ted it I doubt whether one m an out of a thous a nd could a nswer the ques It is e a sy n ow to l a y the bl a me of the Chitra l t ion mis a dventure on the events Of 1895 but it must be recollected th a t during the ye a rs 18 7 3 a n d 18 7 4 B ritish policy w a s exceedingly a ctive a n d energ etic in Ya r k a nd on the P a mirs an d constituted the fi rst Gilgit Ten ye a rs l a ter there w a s a nother politic a l Agency mission in the direction of Chitr a l Gilgit Hunz a M a stey a n d the Oxus An d l a stly Sir G Robertson w a s hovering a bout K a fi rist a n a n d Chitr a l between 18 90 a n d 1 898 two ye a rs previous to his being besieged in Chitra l during M a rch a n d April 1895 I sh a ll therefore try a n d point out the w a rs which in my opinion c a n be put down to the P a nj a b Policy sep a r a ting them from those for o
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1898
EX P E D I TI ONS
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which the Forwa rd S chool m a y be con sidered a nswer a ble Let me begin with H a z a ra Here t here ha s been no a ttempt to seize a n d secure the l a nds of it s inde pendent neighbours a n d therefore the expe di tion to K ag a n November the expedition a g ainst the H a s an z a is on the Bl a ck Mount a in 185 3 expe di tion a g ainst the Bl a ck Mount a in tribes expe di tion a g a inst the Bl a ck Mount a in tribes expe di tion a g a inst the Bl a ck Mount a in tribes B a io expedition c a nnot be pl a ced to a n d the t he credit or discredit of the Forw a rd school But t a ke the following expeditions & The a ffa ir with the Hindust a ni f an a tics in J a nu a ry the the a flairs at Sheikh J a n a a n d N a rinj i in expe di tion to Sitt a n a under M a j or Gener a l Sir S April the Am b eyl a c am C otton the coercion of the J a d un s a n d U tm a n p aig n z ais opera tions in B a iz a i Oper a tions in the Lund Khwa r Valley expedition a g a inst the Ran iz a is in M a rch punishment of the U tm an Khel in M ay second oper a tion in the Raniz ai Va lley M a y the three sm a ll expedi tions a g a inst I s khakot an d S a pri Oper a tions ag ainst the M ohm an d s a ffa ir a t P a n jp a o April a g a inst the M ic hni M o hm a n d s in 1 85 4 affa irs with the M ohm a n d s D ecember a n d J a nu a ry 1 86 3 and the Shab k a d d ar event Of 18 97 which brought on the inv a sion of Mohm a nd country the Khyber d éb cic le of 189 7 a n d the inv a sion of T ir a h 1897 Besides these there were of lesser note the expe di tion a g a inst the Koh a t P a ss Afri di s expedition a g a inst the B ori A fridis November 185 4 demon ag a inst the A k a Khel A fridis ’
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g a inst the H a ss a n Khel section of the A d a m Khel A fri di s closing Of the Koh a t Ja w a ki c a mp a ign 187 7 7 8 P a ss 18 7 5 If w e turn our a ttention to the Mira nz a i Va lley there Coke w a s the expedition under C a pt a in J second expedition under B rig a dier Ch a mberl a in a expe di tion into the Kura m Va lley 185 6 punishment of the Or a kz a i tribe in the a utumn of 18 55 by a force under Brig a dier Ch a mberl a in a ffa ir with the B a z o t is a t the U bl a n P a ss two Mir a n z a i expeditions in 1891 a n d a n d the We now go further south to the W a z iris a n d note expedition a g a inst the Um a rz a i fi rst of a ll the section of the Ahm a d z a is December a g a inst the C a ubul Khel section of the U t m a n z ais under B rig a di er Ch a mberl a in Decem ber demon the C a ubul Khel W a z iris s t ra t io n a g a ins t expedition a g a inst the M a hsud W a z iris April expedition into the D a w a r Va lley 18 7 the Shir a ni a g a inst the K a sr a ni tri b e expe di tion April the B ozda r expedition an d I need not go further south a mongst the Beluch tribes to compile a he a vier list of expeditions For P a n j a b Policy is solel y a nswer a ble a ll of these the I know th a t the ordin a ry English re a der w ill h a te w a ding through a long list of tedi ous c amp a igns a n d expeditions but it is right th a t truth even if tedious sho ul d be reve a led so th a t the people in Engl a nd m a y know th a t the Forw a rd Policy is not to bl a me for a ll the w a rs bloodshed expenditure an d ill feeling which h a ve t a ken pl a ce on the North Western Frontier of the P a nj a b The For w a rd Policy on the other h a nd is cert a inly a nswera ble for the events in Chitr a l a n d northw a rds of the s a me since a n d M a l a k a nd a
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FRONTIER POLI C Y
338
cx
.
x xx
quite la rge enough to require the entire c a pa b ili t ies Of the a blest Governor who could be got in the l a nd a n d he ha d determined on t a king a step which he knew would be benefi ci a l fi rst to the P a nj a b a n d s econdly a dv a nt a geous to B el u c his t a n to K a shmir t o the P a nj a b Frontier Force a n d to the P a nj a b Frontier districts in getting them a wa y from the L a hore control U nfortun a tely the Af gh a n w a r of 1 878 broke out a n d the frontier districts were left t o their f a te Since 186 0 enormous ch a nges h ave t a ken pla ce in t he P a nj a b A r a ilw a y now runs from Delhi to Pesh a w a r from L a hore to Ka ra c hi from L a ll a Mus a t owa rds the Indus a n d down its left b a nk to Mult a n The Chief Court ha s been introduced a n d numerous A cts a n d Rules rel a ting to m a tters civil crimi n a l revenue a n d to other e duc a tion a l municip a l police subj ects h a ve been en a cted Therefore t a king these m a tters a lone the work of the Lieuten a nt Governor ha s been now doubled if not trebled Al though the M a l ak a nd a n d Swa t h a ve been under the Foreign Offi ce of In di a since 1895 the Pa nj a b ch a rge ha s been incre a sed by h a ving the diffit Khyber a n d Kurra m a dded to it a n d since the settlement of the Dur a nd bound a ry there ha s been a further incre a se of diffi culties to the westwa rd of the Dura nd line The P a nj a b ha s a n a re a of s q u a re miles or squ a re miles less th a n the tot a l a re a of the U nited Kingdom Its popul a tion in a l a rger popul a tion th a n th a t of 189 1 w a s Portug a l a n d Sp a in together Besides the territory under British a dministra tion which is a s l a rge a s It a ly there is a n a re a of one third th a t size belong ing to thi rty four feud a tory n a tive St a tes with a w as
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FRONTIER A DMINISTRATION
1898
3 39
popul at ion of m ore th a n four a n d a qu a rter millions of who m the Lieuten a nt Governor of the P a nj a b m a y be considered the chief Surely this is an enormous ch a rge for one m a n to be a r the he at a n d burden of in these d a ys a n d it is impossible th at one in di vidu a l c an gr a sp a dequ a tely one h a lf of the questions whi ch h ave to come up to him for decision But there is still a third an d even more diffi cult ch a rge whi ch he is c a lled upon to underst a nd a n d gra pple with v iz the frontier tribes a cross his P a nj a b B order split u p into numerous cl a ns with di vergent interests a n d with a fighting strength estim a ted a t a rmed men How c a n one m an however a ble a n d competent underst a nd a ll the v a rious proble m s which a ri se from s o diffi cult a ch a rge M a ny frontier questions require an expert h a nd a n d speedy a ction to s a ve future complic a tions They often necessit a te an immedi a te visit to the loc a lity which the Lieuten ant Governor c a nnot a lw a ys undert a ke a n d a knowledge of the P a shtu l a ngu a ge which no Lieuten a nt Governor th a t I know of ha s yet a cquired I m a y be in error but to the best of my belief no Governor of the P a nj a b ha s ever been a ble to converse with the border people in both Persi a n an d P a shtu a n d without this collo m a n should be a llowe d to rem a in i l knowledge no u a q perm a nently in the Tra ns Indus districts or be chief over them An o ffici a l in those p a rts doe s not wa nt to see the Arb ab s a n d D arb a ris a n d city m a gn a tes only who come to him a n d t a lk fluent Hindust ani He ought t o see the l a ndowner in his o w n vill age a n d to h a ve the time a n d be a ble for himself to a s o er t ain how the revenue the a lien a tion of l and the cost of litig a tion a n d v a rious other m a tters a ffect e a ch vill ag e community ,
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FRONTIER POLIC Y
34 0
ex
.
x xx
The P a nj ab Province is incre a sing in import a nce every d ay with n ew c a n a ls growth of tra de a n d a development of we alth all over especi a lly in its c a pit a l L a hore It c an with e a se a n d credit c a rry out a politic a l H a ri K a ri a n d sever its future connection with its tr ans frontier distric ts This m ay be very p a inful a t fi rst but in the end the province will rej oice over the a ct a n d the frontier will be gl a d The only w a y to prevent future w a rs on the frontier a n d to c re a te a frien dl y impression on the wild m an of the independent hills , is to a lter the system which has proved useless for thirty fiv e ye a rs Repl a ce it by the scheme which His Excellency Lord Lytton intended c a rrying out when he w a s Viceroy of Indi a a n d which met w ith the a pprov a l of the Ma rquis Of S alisbury Let there be a a n d the Government then in power Chief Commissioner or o fficer on speci a l duty (no m a tter wh a t n a me he m ay be c a lled by) one well up in Persi a n a n d P a shtu a n d a ble to visit every spot wherever his presence is required Let him be sup plied with a suffi cient st a ff to c a rry on the hi gher civ il crimin a l a n d revenue det a ils so a s to g ive him Let Deput y s u fll c ie n t leisure for his border work Comm issioners Assist ant Commissioners &c do purely and solely the civil work of their districts An d l a stly h a ve politic a l a n d police o fficers to under t a ke the tr a ns border police duties Let all these be selected offi cers with fa ir p a y a n d prom otion p a ss ing their entire service on th a t frontier with n o d a nger of tra nsfer to a Cis Indus ch a rge Give this scheme whi ch ha s thus been briefly noticed a fa ir tri a l a n d there is every cert a inty of a va st improve ment in the rel a tions between the India n Govern ment an d the independent hillmen qui ckl y following ,
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3 42
TH E
TRI BES
OF
THE KHYBER
cxx
.
x x
Kh a n Timur i L a ng B aber N a dir Sh a h Ahm a d Sh a h a n d numerous other w a rrior chiefs p a ss a n d rep a ss through its f a mous rocky d e file s during a period of ye a rs ? M a ckeson writing of them s a ys & The Afridis a re desper a tely fond of money a most a v a ricious r a ce Their fi delity is me a sured by the length Of the purse of the seducer a n d they tra nsfer their Obedienc e a n d support from one p a rty to a nother of their own cl a nsmen a ccording to the comp a r a tive libera lity of the don a tion Another a uthority s a ys Ruthless cowa r dl y robbery cold blooded tre a cherous murder B rought up from his a re to a n A fridi the s a lt of life e a rliest childhood a mid scenes of a pp a lling tre a chery a n d merciless revenge not hi ng c a n ever ch a nge him cruel s a v a ge —s o he a s he ha s lived — a sh a meless dies One more a uthority & On the whole s a ys Elphinstone the y a re the gre a test robbers a mong the Afgh a ns a n d I im a gine h a ve no fa ith or sense o f honour ; for I never he a rd of a nybody hiring an escort of Khyb eris to secure his p a ss a ge through their country—a step which a lwa ys ensures a tr a veller s s a fety in the l a nds Of a ny other tribe To this let me a d d my little experience of ne a rly eighteen ye a rs secured a fter a longer insight of Af ridi ch a r a cter inside a n d out side their country th a n gene r a lly fa lls to the lot of a n y English Offi ci a l The Af ridi l a d from his e a rliest childh ood is t a ught by the cir c u m s t a n c e s of his existence a n d life to distrust a l l m a nkind a n d very often his ne a r rel a tions heirs t o his sm a ll plot of l a nd by right of inherit a nce a re his de a dliest enemies Distrust of a ll m a nkind a n d re a diness to strike the fi rst blow for the s a fety of his own life h a ve therefore become the m a xims of t he -
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3 44
THE
TRIBE S OF
TH E KHYBER
ex
.
x x
the burning of their homes built up with enormous l a bour a n d a fter sever a l ye ars of work for in Tirah forts a re not built by contra ct An d yet in th a t supreme hour of their distress they ha d a thought for the s a fety of the Ka fi r who ha d done nothing for them except to try to be their friend ,
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346
I ND E x
CK
DI
ATT O
i
t
C ol on el , 2 2 1 ; a cc d en t o, o n B l a ck M ou n a n , 23 1 ; e x en s on o f s e v c e , 2 81 A ock , ca m o f e x e c s e , 225 A ha n of Su d u m , 48 ; d ea h of, 49
ti
ri tt p ziz K
t i
ri
t
r
jr p C r v rr g m t i th Khy 102 h C ri r pig d 1 3 6 1 43 C hm iri tr t r 104 C b l E gl i h t i 184 3 3 4 ; m r f C g i Mi i t 81 im pr v m t i 15 3 C b l Riv r r ilw y 2 06 ; vy f 2 1 5 ; vi it f M r O C ll gh 22 5 t i Si L i 28 pp i t d C g D p ty C mm i i r f P h 56 J w ki p d iti w 58 tt k S pri 6 0 t 1 k b ak t 6 3 hi f 6 6 6 9 ppl i f W b t rvi 7 2 7 3 7 4 7 7 ; m r d r f 81 C w p r 9 C il W ll i m 19 C h m l V ll y p diti t 50 Ch y M j r 281 Chitr l r b l l i i 275 Ch l r 7 7 7 8 Ch r G lh m d r f k h t 91 Ch b d 57 Cl D k f vi it Khyb 207 t y t Ay b Kh 2 13 f hi d th 2 14 d M Cl m t M 264 C k Si J h 2 2 7 C ll S i E 2 82 C ll tt G r l Si H 249 C ght D k d D h f 12 0 12 8 ll y C pt i 5 C ll y M j r 7 2 C C rd ry M 106 Cr gh C pt i B r zi r 2 03 i gh m 84 C C z C l l th H M 271 C rz L rd vi it C b l 2 7 1
C a ll a n d e , M a o , 3 1 C a m b ell , Sir C olin , 6 1
r
K L K i g i r V y rr t rr rt pt i tty r i ti i Wi r t z r V y vi it tt y r r Lr W rt r ti y vi it K r r it ry t rg r r rig t r L g V iti ir r t Li t r J r r r pt i ry r V y r i i i r rri i g
p i
rpr
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p iti y r
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C
C AL UT TA, 17 5
vi it f Khyb r M s
o
e
alik s
to,
an
an a
a a
n
en s
e
e
er,
ar
eon s u se
e
c on
as
u
au
BAD IARAD F OR T , 9 5 B a h am ha n of al ur a , 3 2 B a n d a - a d d -Ro han , s u is e o f, 92 , 93 Ba nk fa lure , 15 B a a a ll e , 3 06 Ba a , M r , 22 0 B a o w , C ol on el , 3 12 B a on , C a a n , 2 81 Ba s , F ed , 46 B a t t ye , Q u n n , 10 B a t t ye , R chm on d , 186 Ba t tye , g a m , 4 6 , 6 0, 6 2 , 6 7 ; d e a h o f, 7 3 , 7 4 , 89 Ba a a ll e , s t o , 3 08 Be ck e , M r H , 44 , 7 6 B en s l e , M r , 1 6 4 Be e s fo d , o d 2 01 B e s u d b o he s , 84 B l a ck M oun a n ex ed on , 103 , 1 86 , 18 7 B om b a , s of h b e M alik s t o , 17 8 B o d e M il a Police, comm a n d a n o f, 32 5 Boy, a c ou a e ou s , 1 6 5 B a dfo d , Sir E , 2 07 B h , Ge n e a l Sir R 82 , 84 in t he a hm a n a ll e , 94 Br s h s ol d e , a ss a ul b y a , 83 B o a dfo o , eu ena n W , 4 B ow n e , Sir a m es , 2 01 , 2 19 B o w n e , Sir Sa m , 7 2 B unk e , C a a n , 14 5 B d on , D r , 3 Bu n e all e , 48 ; coura e o f old Bun e ch e f, 50 ; s u cces s of A ab Kha n in , 5 1 ; B un e a d , 5 4 , 5 5 ; s ub m ss o n o f, 6 6 Bu j -i-H a S n h, 3 0 Burn e , Sir Ow e n , 20 Burn es , Sir A , 3 , 4
CK
ac o
n
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a ss a c e o
a
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nar s
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s s on
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en s
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au
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s
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or a n
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ur
aren ce ,
o
e
c es ,
,
on
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c o ur es
n ew s o
an ,
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rs . ,
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en ,
r
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en e a
onn a u
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8
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or
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as
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ac
es
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ec
on
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s s on e
o
a r,
a
ou s ,
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an
uc
ess o
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on o
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ea
a o r
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u nn n
a n,
a
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a n
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ur
on ,
o on e
u
on ,
o
,
223
r rg i vi p ty r vt
e
s
222 ;
,
on .
e
s
,
D A BRAI H I LL
a
au
ad
u
,
v tg
an a es o
,
r
D arb a a t P e sha w a , 1 7 2 D a a , 3 00 D a es , M a o , 2 52 De u C o m mi s s one o f P e shaw a w o k of, 3 2 5 D e o ee ’ s c ur s e , a , 3 5 D ck , C a a n , 2 83
i
f
jr
pt
i
i r
r
,
347
INDEX
KARA CHI
B IL D EE
i i r i M rti ir K p Ky r i tri t r tM r r vi it vi it K y r t M rti r
B ld es , 17 D lk e , Sir Cha le s, 190 D ll on , Sir a n , 18 han a ss es h ou h D , of, h b e , 181 D s c ofiicers , w o k of, 3 21 D onald , M r , 326 D os uham m a d , 3 D uffe in , L o d , Pesha w a , s s 17 1 h b e , 17 4 s s D um D um , 2 b ull e s , 3 07 Duran d , Sir o m e , his m s s on , 26 1 D w a -Toe , 304 d efil e of, 305
tr g
’
r V
p
G iffin , Sir L e el , 14 8 Gui d e s , C o s of, 4 6 in the Cham l a a ll e , 60; 50 a ack Sa , s ur s e I s khak ot , 6 2 ; m a ssa c e a t C a u b ul , 8 1 Gurg urra ara , s o of, 2 10
rp
y
tt
pri
pri
r
Zi t t ry
.
H K pt i it i i it tr r r r ti g jr ti g p t r K r t d t Am ir 16 1 H 2 6 5 y G rg 2 0 N pr l gi iv l t Sim l 26 4 ; H il d b r d C l l6 1 L rd 94 r h P h w r 272 Hi d t i f ti 5 1 E l phi t G rl 4 rd C pt i 2 07 f ti r H tilf— th E gli h ffi r M rd G id H t 29 ; h r w rk f 3 30 t l i g t 44 t6 Ey r Si Vi H gh B n r 4 7 H t r C h rl 46 46 6 9 M KH N g v r r H t hi R H y d r Kh 240 f Ali M ji d 6 8 96 F h w M 26 5 F Li t C l 261 S g I C T N 203 F itzp tri k Si D i 2 6 5 2 82 r f 15 2 ; d I h k Kh b lli Fr ti r p l i y i th P h w r f t d b y Am ir 187 V ll y 86 ; vil f f rm r 3 7 ; I khak t tt k 6 1 ; fi d 64 i f 3 13 ; i ffi i y di ffi r fl t 3 16 ; f rm r y t m 317 R 5 J Fr ti r p l iti l ffi r w rk f J m M j r 319 3 21 3 24 J m r d 30 ; ri g i f m 130 ; Fr t R G 10 vi w f m 2 36 F l f rd C pt i 1 15 ; m rd r f J w k i p d iti 58 116 J k i Si F r i 4 6 5 0 F tt h b d b ttl fi l d f 89 J ky 7 7 ; m d r f 8 1 ; w rk J l ll b d r v 85 h J C pt i 4 tr ty f 77 G N G yhi h 1 K R T N vi it d b y M N i 97 G rw d C l l 194 K fi b j ti f 15 2 G l Si Al fr d 2 8 308 K j i V ll y tr b l i 114 Gh z i t r m i g f 2 K k Kh l r v f 86 Gh l m H yd r Sip r S l r 29 1 K m l t ry f fr b t r 107 Gl t r L i t t 221 r b b ry f C m mi i r h r G rd iv th Si T 13 7 ; r 108 ; d th f 1 10 Amir 140 14 1 K r hi vi i t f Khyb r M lik t G gh Si C h rl 84 1 80 l J m 17 Gr t C l LE P HA
esen e
T
n,
o
ea c
es
arr
,
es
n s one ,
n
s
o
o
e,
r
H AD D A M UL LA , 295 H a km u t ha n , 50, 5 3 H al d a n e , C a a n , 3 1 2 H a m l on , Sir W , 11 H am l on , Wal e , 4 6 m urd e of, 8 1 H a t , Ge n e al , 308 H a s n s , Ma o , 7 6 , 7 8, 8 1, 99 ; ac n hyb e , oli ical office in .
,
a
e nn es s
a,
n
en e a
u s an
r on
e
e
o
,
o
o
a
a n,
s ea
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a
un e
U HAMM AD as
ans
a
ur eon -
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o
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ce s ,
,
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o
ce s ,
,
a
es ,
a
u
e
a
a
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o
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o
,
a
ea
nc
arr
oo
a se e e ,
a n
,
o on e
,
r
o
n
s o
r
an
,
,
,
o
n o
,
an c s ,
ns,
ur e
a
n so n ,
e,
on ,
r
e a
na
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e
n s,
,
o
o
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e enu e ,
a
a n,
a
o
.
a a
a
,
ec e
,
a
a
,
es
e
a
o
r
o one
ec
a
a ac
es ,
a
es ,
e
s o
,
e
o
,
s
o
o
es
an o ee
n,
,
oo e
ss on e
o
o
,
ou
,
a r,
c
on o
a s , ca a
ea
a
e
s
,
rs , s u
a ou r
,
a
,
a
,
IS A
,
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on ,
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ex
AF I
,
eu en an
on ,
ou
ne
ac
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os e
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a o
a
en
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A DAM AK,
on o
e
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ro
on
a
a
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en
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e
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a
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AI
an ,
s
c en c
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ev .
o
es ,
ea e
e
ne
,
a
A GD AL L A
,
,
,
AP
a
s
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e
o se
,
an,
NGL I s ,
e
s
a e o
u
-
n
c
o
.
en s ,
r
o
on
e
a
e
eu
scuss on
e
es a
u
n so n ,
u c
o e no
,
,
,
cs,
r. ,
e,
enn ,
o
A
u
,
,
,
,
es -
,
a n,
a
,
,
o
a na
,
on
ncen
e,
o on e
,
,
u
AM
eo
,
an
e
a
ce s
o
o
a
a
r
’
s
,
o s es ,
,
e
a
s
o,
34 8
I NDEX
K ATTA
ME
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94 ; d a b ar in , 95 akk a Sa r P ea k , a s c e n o , alu , b a l e o f, 5 0 a o , ha n , Sub a d a aman a n di Kh a n a , w a e a t , 101 o al , oo s a t , in 1 87 9 , 78 an d h e e s a t , 80 ; u n of b a a ck s h of, 16 6 ; b uild a t , 114 ; s e n de to, b y in g of se a a t , 1 84 ; o d an s s of n h , 196 ; d ow n e , 2 02 ; w a e a nk s a t , 2 80
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INDEX
3 50
WARBURTON
S AN DEM AN
rt
Sand em an , Sir Rob e , 180 San dfo d , I n s ec o -Gen e al , 169 ack on , 59 Sa , 58 ; a S a ka , b l ood feu d , 24 1 han , uha m m a d H a s sa n Sa 97 Sa ssob a i Pa s s , es ca e o f Al i M a s d a son hr o u h, 7 2 S ee Akb a ul l a h S a a d Akb a S a ad Secun d er Shah, w oun d ed ,
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3 07 ; a s s s a n c e of, 3 10 Shab k a d d ar, 3 1 Shah Shuj ah, 2 ; s on of, 8 han of Hun d , mu d e S ha hd a d 0t 2 5 She Al i, Am , 19 ; w ar d ecl a e d h of, 85 a a ns , 6 8 ; b e , 112 ; a ll e , 164 ; S hil m a ni oa d hrou h, of c o n s ru c on a l 193 ; w o k s o e d , 1 95 ; w ay s u e e d h ou h, 2 17 S hin w a s , 7 1 ; d efe a e d b y t he Am , 1 5 1 S khs , 15th, 2 0 ; con a s e d w h Pa han s , 3 13 S ah Af d s , 15 4 S , 5 H B ab n t on , 2 6 4 Sm h, H 30 Sm h, Sn ow w ells , 12 5 S o a d y, C ol onel , 3 1, 33 S ou a , Sir F , 17 8 S ew a , C ol on el , 16 9 S ew ar , G eo e , 46 , 62 S o m P e rel of t he fron e , 52 S u , C ol on el , 3 Sudd um , a d on , 5 4
K
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.
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ti r
T AL B OT, L IE U T -C OL ONE L , 2 7 6 T a rt arra , e a r of oa d , 1 12 ; d e a s c en o f e ak , on of, 112 s cr 122 ; clim a e in , 12 4 T a u, ob b e es at , 41 T a l o , C o l o n el R , 5 0 a l o , M r , 2 48 T el e a h, w on d ers of, 17 7 T ah c a m a g n, 3 00 e t s eq G o e nm en o d e on , 3 10 l a eau , 12 6 ; clim a e T or-Sa a a h ll a d a n a es a s of, 16 3 s a on , 2 21 To n b ee , C om m and e J 11 T ou , C a a n, 4
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Tu m a , 3 T u n e , C ol on el , 89, 139
i ti
U D NE Y, M a , n ac on of, 2 49 ; re fuses a s s s a nce , 26 5 ; ocl am a on o f, 266 ; Ghol am s s H d e , 2 82 ; el egram t o Go e n m e n , 299 U llu s Well , 185 U m a ha n , 181 U rm s on , C a a n , 186 U m an Khel s , a a ck on , 6 4
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VAM B E RY,
PR OFE SSOR
89
WALKE R
SE ae E ANr,
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by
Af di s , 3 07 a ll M uha mm a d ha n , 72 ; l oy al o f, 7 9 ; ob a n s aliki of akha Khel s , 82 hones of, 104 , 113 s s Sh l m an a ll e , 16 4 his s on s , 2 11 ; a e c a on of D uk e of C l a en ce , 2 14 a l sh, C a a in , 5 a l on , M r os e h, 2 55 a an , e n of o o s n o , 3 03 a b ur on , A hu , 1 , 9, 14 a b ur o n , R cha d , 1 a b ur on , Ro b e oin ed t o , 1 ; a B en al Ar ll e , 2 ; s orm n of Ghu z n i, 2 ; m a a e, 3 ; es e e of, 12 ; d ea h o f, 1 3 a b ur on , Sir Rob e h of, 5 ; , b s c hool , 6 ; l e a es I n d a for E n g l an d , 9 ; a t e ns n on G am m ar S cho ol , 10 ; a t ool wich, 11 ; e urn s t o I nd a , 1 1 ; a t a n M ir, 14 ; p as s es in U rd u, 15 ; os e d t o 2 1s t Pa n a b I nfa n tr , 16 ; o ns Ab s s n a n ex e di ion , 16 ; m a ia e , 1 9 ; a oin e d t o Pan a b C omm s sion , 2 0 ; a p o in e d t o H o - a d a n, 4 6 ; ro u b l e w h A ab han , 52 ; a o in e d t o Yu suf a , 5 3 ; at t a ck s I s khak o t , 62 ; ece es han k s of Go e nm en , 6 6 ; a p l e s for a c e se ce, 7 2 , 7 4 Go e n m en of In d a on his s er v ces , 75 ; a Pol cal o n ed Ofli cer in the Kh b e , 7 8 ; ap
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I ND EX
351
WA RBURT ON
pit
Pol itical
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rt G l B right 82 ; mp i M h mm d H Kh 8 8 ; m t Y k b Kh 89 ; tt k d b y f v r 98 ; r iv G v r m t ppr v l 99 ; r t t i E gl d 99 th T t f R g 113 ; r d ti l ry 119 ; t L di K t l 12 4 ; rt Ab d R hm 134 ; th k f G v r m t i 154 14 6 ; i it Sip h Afri d i vi it Shilm try 16 4 rt L rd D ff ri 174 vi it K d 191 ; li f Shi w ri pl t 1 97 ; r t t S im l 2 00 ; g z tt d 206 ; m m d ti r i g Khyb r Rifl 23 5 r q tf i t f d 2 53 ; pp li f i r d gh t M rr p y 2 57 ; f rl 2 59 ; r m m d ti t ri d t 2 83 ; l t d y i Khyb r 284 ; d p t r fr m f G P h w r 2 85 ; th k m t 2 86 ; ff r d m pl ym t 297 pp i t d P liti l Offi i m p ig Afri d i 3 00 ; l hi b gg g 3 08 ; g ll try f hi rd rli 3 11 ; r m m d ti i fr ti r p li y 3 13 340 ; pi i f Afi id i h r t r 3 42 o n ed
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AN o f D a a , b a e Z AI D U L LA o f, 50 ; d e a h of, 5 1 h el , a b d u c o n o f b an d ak ha os o n in t he m a s e b y, 4 3 ; h b e , 7 0 ; m sch e f-m a kin b y, 7 7 ; n d e en d en ce of, 106 ; l a n d a d s u o n Shin d s u e , 1 18 ; wa w om en , fo m a on , 1 5 9 of a shr n e , 2 10 h a n , Sub a d a M aj or , 2 42 ; am a n Am n ha n s n , 2 4 7 ; s a es Am n han , 2 79 oul a , 1 6
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YA KUB AN b ou h n o Je l all a b a d , 89 Ya s n han , Sub a d a M a o , 3 10 Yu suf a , a o n m en o f W arb ur
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