thanksgiving

NEW! Canada’s Cooking Magazine

150

fall recipes, tips & ideas

thanksgiving at Ricardo’s

His stress-free menu planner

genius apple pies Try our speedy, no-fail crust

+ The ultimate chocolate chip cookie

Simple and delicious: roasted pork and fall vegetables

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IN THIS ISSUE Volume 1, Issue 1 Fall 2014

a word from ricardo 8 10 Behind the Scenes 13 Contributors News Feed 14 Amy Rosen dishes on all-things-food 17

Things we Love New finds you’ll enjoy as much as we do

18

Wine & Drink Great bottles and must-visit hot spots Wine notes 21 How to maximize your sommelier

102

22

On the road Visiting Prince Edward County 24

Top 10 10 facts about Greek yogurt

27

in season Cranberries

31

From garden to table How to grow fall garlic Food for thought 32 Healthy workday eating solutions the guide 37 The best cuts for grilling Weekday wonders 45 Leave the meal planning to us 58

72

126

Safe eats Diabetes-friendly muffin recipe

60

family recipe Larb: A lucky dish from Laos

65

Food Lab The truth about tofu In living colour 72 Vibrant vegetarian mains 82

Homegrown potatoes Elevating the humble spud

Friendsgiving 102 Ricardo celebrates Thanksgiving with friends

126

Sweet tooth Genius apple pies

146

The ultimate Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies

82 ON THE COVER ART DIRECTOR sonia bluteau photographeR DAVID DE STEFANO accessories stylist CAROLINE NAULT FOOD stylist ÉTIENNE MARQUIS

149

Test Kitchen Full food disclosure from our team

153

Ricardo for Kids Spooky Halloween fun

158 Menu planner 160 Recipe index 162 Last call Overcoming hosting jitters ricardocuisine.com

Fall 2014

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NIGHT AFTER NIGHT, A YOUNGER-LOOKING SKIN RISES.

Editorial Director Brigitte Coutu Publisher and Director of International Brand Development Marie-José Desmarais Creative Director and Art Director Sonia Bluteau Executive Chef Ricardo Larrivée

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Editor-in-Chief Catherine PerreaultLessard Managing Editor Christine Laroche Editor-at-Large Doug Wallace Production Coordinator Marisol Moquin L. Nutrition Advisor Sarah Lalanne

Test Kitchen Director Kareen Grondin Test Kitchen Team Danielle Bessette Lisa Birri Étienne Marquis

Art Director Lydia Moscato Associate Art Director Caroline Blanchette Designers Martine Bélanger Geneviève Larocque Graphic Artist Marianne Lapointe

Digital Media Director Bettie Beauregard Web Architect Jean-François Payant Senior Digital Manager Razak Malekan Digital Content Manager Cindy Barriault

Contributors Christina Blais, Pamela Cuthbert, Catherine Desforges, Alain Guyot, Rob Lee, Mary Luz Mejia, Corey Mintz, David Rollins, Robert Ronald, Amy Rosen, Rob Sproule, Jennifer Sygo, John Szabo

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Fall 2014

photographer Jean-françois bérubé HAIR AND MAKEUP nadia lavoie food stylists Kareen grondin and étienne marquis

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Welcome to my kitchen Dreams have always pushed me forward. As far back as I can remember, I dreamt about a wife to love. I could picture a dining table surrounded by children. I could even hear the chatter of friends in the kitchen. I have always wanted a family of my own. I grew up with 15 uncles and aunts, and something like 100 cousins. They taught me so much. Your family helps you discover your true self. It helps you build your self-esteem. In my family, food was part of every reunion, every occasion. I decided at a young age that I wanted to cook for a living and share this passion with as many people as possible. Soon, I was studying hotel management in Montreal, followed by broadcasting in Ottawa. I started my adult life in Regina, then moved on to Toronto, where I had the chance to reach out to Canadians through the Food Network. I will always have fond memories of Saskatchewan. Maybe because the plains are infinite, this land has pushed my limits even further. This is where I learned happiness. And this is where someone at the CBC believed in me enough to give me my first food segment. Thank you so much! You changed my life. The rest of my dreams came true, too. I met my wife Brigitte, a nutrition graduate who became the mother of our three beautiful daughters, aged 11, 14 and 16. Fifteen years ago, we created what is now a booming Canadian business in publishing, web and TV production, all dedicated to food and family values. A few years ago, our life collapsed when Brigitte—like too many wives, mothers, grandmothers, sisters and friends— had to face breast cancer. Not only did we survive as a family, but the ordeal suddenly gave our work a whole new purpose: to use food to bond people together, through good and bad times. Day after day, we create great recipes that bring families together, enable them to save time and money, teach people healthy eating habits, help build children’s confidence, and even contribute to the local economy. This new magazine is a turning point for us. Being able to speak to Canadians from coast-to-coast is something we have aspired to for many years. We’re thrilled to finally be able to share it with you! Welcome to my kitchen. This is where dreams come true.

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Fall 2014

9

behind

the sceneS

1.

2. 1. Visiting the lovely Tracy Moore at Cityline in Toronto. 2. Quality time with The Rush’s Fiona Forbes in Vancouver.

ricardo on-the-go Power couple

Wife. Business associate. Partner in crime. Brigitte Coutu (this magazine’s Editorial Director) is all that and so much more to Ricardo. Whenever she’s around, you can bet that he’s not too far behind!

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When Ricardo was working in Regina, he’d drive east to visit his family and west to visit friends, happily covering tens of thousands of kilometres in a rickety car. Today, he travels just as much–and still enjoys every moment of it. He even loves airports and somehow never suffers from jet lag. Because travelling is synonymous with eating out, his smartphone is a treasure trove of favourite restaurants from coast-to-coast. This way, no matter where he is, he can eat like a local (as seen above, at Toronto’s Union Restaurant). The sidebar at right highlights a few more of his must-visits across the country. Have a local spot to recommend? Tweet him at @ricardorecipes.

3 of Ricardo’s favourites THANKSGIVING THROWBACK A few of Ricardo’s high school classmates make an appearance in Friendsgiving (p. 102). The pals were proven food lovers even back in the day, often setting their cafeteria table (cloth, dishware and all) and enjoying memorable meals like chicken with molasses in Ricardo’s backyard.

IN THE TEST KITCHEN Here at Ricardo, the editorial staff tastes everything—and we mean everything! From cocktails in the morning to pancakes in the afternoon, the magazine’s dedicated team lends their taste buds to the cause to ensure every recipe and product in these pages is not merely satisfactory—but certified delicious. It’s a tough job, but somebody’s got to do it! When the aromas take over the office as they often do, the magazine staff, including four full-time cooks and Ricardo himself, gathers around to ensure that all the food we feature is perfect prior to publishing. No need to thank us. We love what we do!

1

1 Charcut Roast House, Calgary From house-butchered meats to reclaimed barn wood paneling, every aspect of this restaurant reflects an authentic, locavore vibe. Tasty, unfussy food with a focus on seasonality makes it a go-to when in The Stampede City. 101-899 Centre St. SW charcut.com

2 Rose and Sons, Toronto

ROSE AND SONS Connie Tsang CHARCUT ROADHOUSE John Cullen Photography

Years ago, Ricardo was introduced to this neighbourhood haunt by a Torontonian friend. He immediately adored the killer grilled cheese, inspired cocktails and laid-back ambiance, and hasn’t stopped visiting since. 176 Dupont St. roseandsons.ca

3 Meat & Bread, Vancouver This popular Gastown lunch spot often has line-ups, but it’s always worth waiting for what Ricardo deems the best porchetta sandwich in the country. On an extra-indulgent day, he’ll finish lunch with a bacon ice cream sandwich. 370 Cambie St. meatandbread.ca

Click to cook Love the recipes in this issue? There’s plenty more for you to discover! Visit ricardocuisine.com for over 4,000 perfect-every-single-time recipes, plus howto videos, special features and practical tools. Talk about bookmark-worthy…

2 ricardocuisine.com

3 Fall 2014

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Oil tO prOve yOur better half, and the father Of yOur children, just hOw much yOu lOve him, by preparing a special meal cOnsisting Of an appetizer Of ribs, a main cOurse Of ribs and a dessert featuring... ribs.

Products that simplify your life by indicating the most appropriate usage on each bottle. Master Oil Makers since 1983 - maisonorphee.com

Contributors Get to know our team of talented columnists Corey Mintz

John szabo

last call p. 162

When it comes to hosting the perfect dinner party, we could all learn a thing or two from Corey, a New York Times published writer.

Rob Sproule Amy Rosen News feed p. 14

After all, he pens a Toronto Star column where he interviews guests in his home over— you guessed it!—a home-cooked meal. Appropriately enough, his first book, published in 2013, is titled How to Host a Dinner Party. What is the best host(ess) gift? Always wine. No one ever complained that they had too much wine. Your dinner party pet peeve? Guests who try to dominate the conversation.

For the well-read foodie, awardwinning journalist Amy Rosen needs no introduction. Her latest endeavour? A third cookbook, Toronto Cooks, which will be released next month. Most memorable meal? I took a cooking class in Julia Child’s former summer home in Provence. We battered and lightly fried squash blossoms and ate them under Julia’s favourite huckleberry tree. Best food tip you’ve learned? Take the time to do it right.

from garden to table p. 31

As a child, Rob was passionate about plants and writing. Today, not much has changed: He’s the co-owner of Alberta’s Salisbury Greenhouse and an author/ media personality on a mission to educate and inspire Canadians about edible plants and their inherent vitality. Most valuable tip you’ve learned from a chef? Fresh ingredients are to a dish what a foundation is to a house. Best and worst food trends these days? The best is emphasis on local ingredients and the worst is fad diets and overemphasis on a few core ingredients, like corn and soy.

wine notes p. 20

Jennifer sygo Food for Thought p. 32

When pro athletes and Olympians need nutritional advice, they call Jennifer Sygo, a registered dietitian, seminar leader and author of Unmasking Superfoods.

Lucky for us, she’ll be offering sage advice to Ricardo readers in every issue. Guilty pleasure? I have always loved a good old-fashioned Twix bar. Worst food trend at the moment? This might sound odd, but I think superfoods are overrated.

Restaurant wine lists and trips to the wine store will be easier to navigate thanks to wisdom imparted by John Szabo, writer and critic for winealign.com, restaurant consultant and master sommelier. Best trick you’ve learned from a sommelier? How to carry a dozen wine glasses in one hand—like an inverted bouquet of flowers. Favourite eating destination? Piedmont, Italy. Especially in white truffle season.

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news feed by amy rosen

Croissant obsession

When I’m in Vancouver, my must-eat is a double-baked almond croissant from Thomas Haas; impossibly buttery, stuffed with perfect almond filling and coated with a crunchy almond shell. Then, of course, I buy some chocolates to go—because Mama didn’t raise no fool. They’re handmade from quality ingredients: oak-barrel aged Quebec maple syrup, loose-leaf teas, and organic herbs and spices. 2539 West Broadway Avenue, Vancouver thomashaas.com

Sprinkles, the Beverly Hills-based cupcake institution, has launched a handful of ATMs in the U.S. that are stocked with fresh, frosting-topped bestsellers, from red velvet to lemon meringue. Waaay better than money. sprinkles.com

NEW BEST FRIEND

Special glass, giant ice orb—potent and delish: It’s d|Bar’s Neo-Negroni at the Four Seasons Hotel Toronto, a warming blend of 1 oz Bombay Sapphire, 1 oz Campari, 1 oz white vermouth and ½ oz Green Chartreuse. Combine all in a shaker with ice, stir and strain, then follow with a winning twist of lemon. 60 Yorkville Avenue, Toronto fourseasons.com/toronto

big is big

It’s time to roll up your sleeves in preparation for the latest evolution of the shared-plates trend: Big meaty platters of everything from saucy ribs to fried chicken to a whole roasted piglet. Now that’s getting to the meat of the matter! 14

Fall 2014

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Blog to watch:

MY NAME IS YEH

Make that @MollyYeh, a talented baker and cook who recently quit Brooklyn to live on the North Dakota-Minnesota border with her farmer-boyfriend. Yeh’s enthusiasm for her new way of life, coupled with stunning photos, makes her blog infectious reading. mynameisyeh.com

Illustration: kanako photos: neo-negroni COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS RESORTS AND HOTELS my name is yeh MOLLY YEH FreshTap Devin Karringten of Devin K Photos s. lefkowitz jordan bibla

CHOCOLATE PIN NUMBER

JAVA JOLT

The Technivorm Moccamaster features the next-wave, drip brew method, making for a smooth, strong pot of coffee in just six minutes. I got mine from Edmonton’s Transcend, where they also roast (and ship) some of the best beans in the biz. Bonus: They even sell green, unroasted beans, should you choose to roast your own. $304, transcendcoffee.ca

CHEERS TO THAT! In Vancouver, wine on tap is becoming as commonplace as long pulls of pub lager thanks to FreshTAP, a new company that packages local wines in stainless steel kegs and distributes them to dozens of restaurants and bars. This reduces costs (wine by the glass means zero spoilage) and provides an ecofriendly alternative to buying by the bottle (less packaging). freshtap.com

HUMMUS HUBBUB

At the hundreds of hummus eateries dotting the Middle East, the simple recipe of chickpeas, olive oil, tahini, lemon, seasoning and spice has been a mainstay for generations. So it was only a matter of time before the urbanpeasant appeal of these snack spots made the leap to Canada. Toronto finally has its first hummuseria, Ezra Braves’ delectable S. Lefkowitz, home to plates of traditional house-made hummus with toppers that run from warm chickpeas and chopped egg to spiced beef. 913 Dundas Street West, Toronto slefkowitz.com

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things we love

by Mary Luz Mejia

New finds we think you’ll love as much as we do Tastes Like None Other

Scare Up Breakfast

Canada’s national cocktail gets a flavour boost from small-batch Walter Caesar mix. Free of unsavoury additives found in commercial brands, it is a veritable taste explosion, using premium ingredients like grated horseradish and real clam juice. From $8 (725 ml), waltercaesar.com

This FunnySide Up skull-shaped egg shaper is frightfully eggsellent any time of the year—for the young and the young at heart. $12, fredandfriends.com

Triple the Tomato Novel Indulgence Former Gourmet magazine editor-in-chief Ruth Reichl pens a beautiful, comingof-age novel featuring Billie Breslin, who faces love and loss, tackling both through the healing qualities of food. Delicious! is charming, thoughtful and inspiring. $29.95, randomhouse.ca

U.K.-based chef Laura Santtini’s Bomba XXX triple concentrated tomato purée is jam-packed with flavour-enhancing red wine and Italian vegetable soffritto. She calls it a replacement for canned tomato purée. We call it addictive magic. Add it to your favourite dishes or mix it into sauces for a hit of Italian soul. $4.89 (200 g), laurasanttini.com

Starter Knives Bonbon Binge Chocolatière Nadège Nourian creates sublime artisanal chocolates using cacao from around the world, paired with sophisticated flavours. From almond-flecked dark chocolate tablets to the yuzu fruit and cashew nut Grand Cru milk chocolate bar, you’ve got 26 options of monogrammed flavour odyssey. $9/bar, nadege-patisserie.com

For Salt Lovers Artisan-crafted Vancouver Island Salt Co. sea salts, including the fleur de sel (from $6 for 35 g), are made using seawater gathered at Cherry Point, B.C. Some are infused with flavours, one is smoked (from $5 for 227 g), and all are ideal. visaltco.com

The Le Petit Chef collection includes a roundedtip knife and an educational ring by Opinel to help position little fingers, so any oopses are safely avoided. $59.90, lacoutellerie.ca

Dash of the Exotic Arvinda’s spice blends are premium, gluten-free goodness for the discerning cook. We think the well-balanced garam masala blend and curry masala are the finest we’ve tried in quite a while. The organic black tea and chai spice blends also make ideal winter warmers. From $5.99 (70 g), arvindas.com ricardocuisine.com

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17

WINE & drink Hot spots to visit and great bottles to open

50 

Good aS gold •••

AuraGin Dry Gin from $55

Keeping it real

Natural wines, those made with little human (or chemical) intervention, have been gaining more and more fans lately. At cozy Toronto boîte Chantecler in the city’s cool Parkdale neighbourhood, co-owner Jacob Wharton-Shukster curates a succinct but eclectic list of wines made in more natural styles—ones that sit well with both the hipster patrons and the bold Asian flavours of chef Jonathan Poon. 1320 Queen Street West, Toronto restaurantchantecler.ca Fall 2014

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. This hearty wine has a bouquet of juicy blackberries, woodsmoke and just a hint of barnyard, followed by a rugged palate of assertive tannin and acidity. Perfect as the nights get colder. Try it with roasted game, duck sausage or our Lamb Stew › p. 98. Pierre Laplace Madiran AC France, from $17

2 WINES TO COZY UP TO •••

2

Smooth & rich

2. When the

dinner table turns to heartier fare, this works like a charm, exhibiting ripe, black plums and herbal nuances, with a soft and silky palate. Try it with osso bucco or anything stewed or braised like our Slow Cooker Beef › p. 54. Bodegas Castano, Hécula Spain, from $12

Wine word

Legs: The droplets of wine that stick to the inside of the glass. After you swirl, they ease down the sides.

restaurant chantecler karolyne ellacott

This new gin hails from an unexpected region of Canada: The Yukon. All of the ingredients also come from within this unique terroir, including a foundation of Yukon Gold potatoes rather than the usual russet. That base gets infused with locally sourced herbs, and the water comes from the mighty Yukon River.

beaus.ca

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1

American states produce wine, including Alaska and Hawaii. That’s a fine state of the union.

› OOM PAH-PAH! It’s like a little bit of Bavaria between Ottawa and Montreal. Beau’s All Natural Brewing Company in tiny Vankleek Hill, ON, throws an impossibly cool annual party: Beau’s Oktoberfest, October 3 and 4. Expect a fun and fashionable crowd throwing back craft beers and German food, heads bobbing to top-notch live music (including Tokyo Police Club).

Rugged & rustic

*Registered trademark of Agropur

WINE notes by John Szabo, MS

How to maximize your sommelier You don’t have to be a wine snob to chat with a sommelier. In fact, he or she is key to getting the most for your wine buck. First, put yourself in the shoes of a sommelier. Your day is spent unpacking and stocking bottles, entering data, reprinting wine lists, meeting with agents (or trying to dodge them) hoping to sell you wines that you don’t need, don’t like or can’t afford. You’re briefing disinterested service staff, interacting with customers who mostly don’t care what they drink so long as it’s wet and grapey, and counting inventory until the wee hours. It’s hardly the glamorous life of sniffing, swirling, sipping and spitting in centuries-old Châteaux wine cellars. That’s just in the movies… Now, if you’re a customer who does care and wants to discover sublime wines and unexpected pairings, give the sommelier the chance to do what she loves the most, yet does the least: sharing her passion—and making you happy. Assuming you’re dealing with a competent pro, here are five tips to help maximize your experience:

Don’t hold back The more information you can give about what you like, the more likely you are to get it. Even “I prefer red to white” is helpful. Also share what you don’t enjoy, as in “I don’t like dry wines or tart wines or high-alcohol wines.” Bottom line: Don’t be afraid

to say, “This wine list might as well be written in Esperanto for all I know.”

Be specific If wine-speak is like a nightmarish flashback to foreign language class, just give examples of what you usually drink. You can be as detailed as “I loved the 2009 Château X from Bordeaux” or as broad as “I’m into New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.” If specific regions or producers slip from your mind like wine through a leaky cork, or if trying to pronounce them is like chewing on marbles, snap photos of your favourite labels with your phone and show these to the sommelier. Even wine has entered the 21st century.

Pinpoint the passion Sommeliers love to be asked what they are excited about. They are like kids in a candy store in this regard, and love to talk about their latest finds: the new vintage, producer, region or grape that they like. This is your chance for a little free education and vicarious living. You may just find a new love of your own.

the wine list and the menu better? Sommeliers love to dazzle with their knowledge, and the chances of sublime pairings are much higher than if you go it alone. And as a reward for your interest, curiosity and confidence in her skills, you’re also more likely to get better service—and spend less. You also might get to taste bottles that aren’t usually available by the glass.

It’s OK to talk price Don’t forget: You’re paying the bill, so take control. The sommelier will secretly thank you. Knowing a guest’s price range avoids ambiguity and saves time. If you’re really shy about discussing money, especially in front of guests, subtly point to a couple of wines on the list within your range, being sure to run your finger over the price itself. A pro will pick up your cue and focus recommendations within your comfort zone. So the next time you find yourself squinting at a wine list that may as well be upside down, tap into the in-house expert—and have the legwork done for you.

Pass the buck Take full advantage of the sommelier by asking her to match wines with your food. After all, who knows

John Szabo knows wine. He is an author, journalist, wine critic and Canada’s first Master Sommelier.

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ON THE ROAD by amy rosen

Weekend in the County As Sonoma is to Napa, so Prince Edward County is to Niagara – a bit smaller, a little more rustic, and a perfect place to visit in the autumn. Treat yourself to a fabulous foodfocused weekend full of charming towns, bucolic vineyards and homespun goodies. ➔

Cool Canadiana

Toronto Chef Matty DeMille and his baker wife moved to the country to get away from the big-city hustle. Now at the new Drake Devonshire (from the team behind Toronto’s Drake Hotel and Drake One Fifty), they’re cooking up cool county comfort food on a patio cantilevered over the lake. 24 Wharf Street, Wellington drakedevonshire.ca

Tomato and Strawberry Salad ➔

Eat Your Vicki’s

Stop by Vicki’s Veggies to buy a mix-and-match basket of their ever-expanding variety of fall vegetables, from asparagus to zucchini. The late September carrots are as sweet as they come. The farmstead encourages customers to come and learn more about their local, sustainable, bee-friendly methods. 81 Morrison Point Road, Milford vickisveggies.com ➔

Last Licks

Slickers bakes apple pies using local produce and then churns them into vats of homemade ice cream. The ice cream shop also toasts marshmallows before stirring the sticky bits into another signature scoop, just two among dozens of dreamy seasonal flavours. 271 Main Street, Bloomfield slickersicecream.com

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➔ Hang at The Hubb Family-run Angeline’s Inn is also home to The Hubb, serving up seasonal done right, such as Ontario buratta with mostarda and hazelnuts, brown sugar-roasted pork belly, and semolina olive oil cake with spiced apple butter. Check in to check out their new The Walter lodgings, where Motor Inn meets Country Inn.

433 Main Street, Bloomfield angelines.ca

➔

Uncork the County

Take your love of food to the county with a hands-on food styling and photography workshop by FoodographyPEC, taught by some of the best in the biz. Bring your camera, tripod and culinary inspirations (and aspirations) for small group sessions packed with technique, creativity–and good eats ($475 for a 1-day workshop, 1 night accomodation double occupancy and 3 meals.)

1152 Greer Road, Wellington

Visit foodographypec.com for locations.

➔

If I had to choose one winery that best expresses both the terroir and the hospitality of the region, Norman Hardie Winery and Vineyard is it. The owner and winemaker creates some of Ontario’s best-loved Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, which benefit from an old world approach to fermentation and aging. Bonus: Dive into wood-fired pizzas and wine while overlooking the vineyard right up until mid-October.

Too Pretty to Eat (Almost)

normanhardie.com

➔

Free-Wheelin’

Most of the area wineries are accessible by bike, and a country ride on a sunny autumn day is the perfect mix of vibrant foliage and easy sipping. At the Bloomfield Bicycle Co., rentals are $35 for the day, including bike (options run from hybrid to mountain, road to recumbent), water bottle, helmet, lock, map, delivery and pick-up.

➔

Illustrations: map Rodolphe bike thinkstock photos: DRAKE DEVONSHIRE The drake hotel vicki's veggies Brent Gervais slickers Emily Materick/Good Food Revolution the hubb Evan Nash foodographyPEC (squash) Christopher gentile photography foodographyPEC (Behind the scene) stuart leslie blain photography Blo0mfield Bicycle Co. Thinkstock.

Norman Hardie Chardonnay Unfiltered, Niagara

Italian County Cooking

Wellington’s first authentic Italian trattoria is where the county meets rustic Italian. Chef Scott Kapitan uses local ingredients to offer up freshly made pastas, like bacon and green pea carbonara with garganelli, and spaghetti with grassfed beef meatballs. Start with the frito misto with wild leek aioli, and stay for the raspberry semi freddo. 280 Main Street, Wellington pomodoropec.ca

225 Main Street, Bloomfield bloomfieldbicycle.ca

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From zero to hero Greek yogurt was virtually unheard of in 2009. Four short years later, it was the top-selling product in its category in Canada, jumping from 0 to 24% of total sales. Its smooth texture, short ingredients list and high protein content explain why nutritionists and consumers alike can’t get enough.

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It’s alive! This staple of the Hellenic diet is packed with probiotic bacteria. Besides facilitating digestion, lactobacilli and bifidobacterium help boost the immune system by limiting the proliferation of bad bacteria.

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Worthy of the gods What exactly is Greek yogurt? Simple: It’s regular yogurt that has been strained. Thick and ultra-creamy, even in fat-free versions, it requires three times more milk to produce than regular yogurt, hence the steeper price tag. Enjoy it topped with honey and crushed pistachios for a treat worth of the gods… Greek or otherwise!

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Greek yogurt by Hélène Laurendeau nutritionist

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Protein powerhouse Some brands contain as much as 19 grams of protein per 175-gram (¾ cup) portion. That’s enough protein for one meal.

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Do it yourself Making Greek yogurt at home couldn’t be easier. All you need is a container of gelatin-free yogurt, a bowl, a coffee filter or cheesecloth and a little bit of patience, as straining the whey can take up to 12 hours. For a detailed how-to, visit ricardocuisine.com.

Calcium counts Calcium levels vary from one brand to the next, meeting anywhere from 15 to 50% of your recommended daily requirement. If calcium is a concern in your diet, check labels carefully.

10 facts about

Man on a mission If one person can be held accountable for our Greek yogurt obsession, it’s Hamdi Ulukaya, founder and CEO of Chobani. His mission? To bring high-quality, Mediterranean style strained yogurt to the American market. And consider it a job well done: today, Chobani is one of the most popular yogurt brands in the United States.

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Savoury superstar Think beyond sweet. Plain Greek yogurt is a wonderful base for homemade tzatziki (just add grated cucumber, chopped garlic and mint) or Indian-inspired raita (fresh cilantro, diced tomatoes, green onions, red peppers and a dollop of Dijon).

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Smooth stand-in Greek yogurt can also quite handily do double or even triple duty. It’s an excellent recipe substitute: In equal amounts, it easily replaces sour cream and cream cheese in dips, muffins and scones.

Shelf life The “best before” stamp doesn’t necessarily mean “bad after”—the manufacturer just can’t guarantee optimal taste and texture after that date. Yogurt can last quite a while in the refrigerator because of its natural acidity.

photographer Mathieu Lévesque

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In season

by Pamela Cuthbert

Berry Delicious

photos istockphoto

Ruby-red cranberries are as much a part of Canadian culinary culture as maple syrup and back bacon. Tart and delicious, versatile and colourful, they’re also really good for you—just don’t tell the kids.

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cranberry chutney preparation 35 minutes cooking 35 minutes makes 1 ¼ cup (310 ml)

1 1 1 tbsp ¾ cup ½ cup 3 cups

small onion, finely chopped clove garlic, finely chopped (15 ml) olive oil (180 ml) chicken broth (105 g) sugar (450 g) fresh or frozen cranberries Salt and pepper

1 In a saucepan over medium heat, soften the onion and garlic in the oil until the onion is translucent. Season with salt and pepper. Add the broth, sugar, and 2 cups (300 g) of the cranberries. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 15 minutes. 2 Add the remaining cranberries and continue cooking for 10 minutes. Let cool. Cover and refrigerate until completely chilled. Adjust the seasoning.

Photographer david de stefano Accessories stylist caroline nault Food stylist étienne Marquis

For classicists, this chutney is best served with roasted turkey (or any white meat, for that matter). For something exotic and unexpected, use it in place of mango chutney in Indian dishes.

these berries are Destined for greatness

Cranberries boast high levels of antioxidants. They have natural antifungal and antibacterial properties, too, which means it is possible (although not always practiced) for producers to use very low levels of pesticides. Little wonder that organic cranberries are on the rise. Their story is our story

Long ago, Canada’s Aboriginal peoples discovered cranberries thriving in bogs. As well as enjoying them fresh, they soon learned to dry cranberries and add them to preserved meat. Early settlers picked up on this knowledge and soon after, cranberry farms were popping up across the continent. Today, Canadians each consume almost one kilogram of fresh cranberries every year. A berry that takes care of itself

Cranberries preserve, dry and freeze extremely well. These lightweight berries float because they have a small air pocket in the middle, a bubble containing seeds. This is partly why they became a staple on ships in the 1800s: They would keep fresh, afloat in barrels of water for long journeys. What’s more, they last much longer than most fresh berries because of their chemical makeup, which is high in benzoic acid, a natural preservative. A high level of acidity helps, too. From coast to coast

In Canada, cranberries are farmed in wild lakes from the pristine lands of Haida Gwaii in British Columbia to the Atlantic provinces, and dozens of points in between. Quebec is Canada’s major producer—followed closely by B.C.—and ranks third worldwide. It’s also the top organic producer anywhere. Thanks to the cold climate, the bogs freeze each December and kill off pests so that little or no chemicals are required.

What’s in a name? Cranberries might be named for the cranes that love to eat them—but then they could also have been called bearberries. Some speculate the name comes from the shape of the plant’s pretty white flower, which resembles the silhouette of a crane.

Two harvest methods While the Canadian harvest conjures up images of golden fields of wheat, the cranberry harvest is equally dazzling. Imagine a lake deep red with millions of tiny bobbing berries glistening in the sun—this is called wet harvesting, of cranberries earmarked for sauces, jellies and juices. Cranberry fields are flooded in up to 18 inches of water the night before the harvest to help coax the berries from their branches. Dry harvesting is less common, generally employed for berries that are to be used fresh. These vines are trained in the same direction and the berries are combed with a rake.

Bring on the benefits, but beware of the sugar

Not only do cranberries pack a mouth-puckering taste but they are also loaded with vitamin C. The only real drawback is added sugar. Because cranberries are naturally sour, the dried ones can be sources of excess sugar. It’s the same for juice, which can be super-sweet at one teaspoon of sugar per ounce. Be sure to check labels and look for versions that use little processed sugar and only natural sweeteners such as honey. without them, Thanksgiving just wouldn’t be the same

Back in the 1600s, Pilgrims adopted the Aboriginal tradition of pairing cranberries with game and other meats, to perfectly balance the savoury with the sweet. This is now a time-honoured Thanksgiving tradition. Tinned cranberry jelly was conceived practically by fluke, just like so many great inventions. When a major cranberry processor was faced with a supply of damaged berries, he decided to cook and can them—a technique that continues today.

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From garden to table by Rob Sproule

Fall Garlic

plant now, smell later Growing your own garlic is well worth the required patience. Here are the rules of engagement in five easy steps.

1. Timing is everything

Cold-region gardeners (yep, that’s us, Canada) should plant in the fall for summer bounty. The best time to plant is mid-to-late October, which will give cloves time to establish a rudimentary root system before winter. Cloves may sprout if you plant too early—sprouts that the cold and wind will promptly nip off.

2. Size matters

Choose the largest bulbs you can find in the fall from the local garden centre. Like any other bulb, size matters. Avoid squishy ones or any showing signs of mould or fungus.

Bulbs With Benefits

Garlic is brimming with vitamin C and eating it will bolster your immune system during winter months. Reach for it at the first sign of cold, cough or chest infection. Studies have also shown that its iodine content may make it an effective treatment for hyperthyroid conditions.

photo thinkstockphotos

Legends of the fall

The Egyptians worshipped garlic and adorned Tutankhamen’s tomb with it. Garlic was hung on doors to keep werewolves out in Medieval Europe, left at crossroads for spiritual protection in ancient Greece and eaten by mountaineering Koreans in the hope that tigers didn’t like the smell.

3. Give it some me time

Select an area of your garden with well-drained, sandy soil (garlic hates wet feet) and as much sun as possible. Make sure the area is weed-free and mark it so you remember the cloves are there in the spring and don’t plant anything next to it. Garlic prefers to be alone.

4. Don’t touch that peel

Break the garlic bulb into cloves and resist the temptation to peel them. Each clove will grow into its own bulb by the next year, but it needs its protective papery covering.

5. The waiting game

Plant the cloves 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) apart, sprinkling a little bone meal into each hole as you go. Dig the holes so that the tops of the cloves are about 2 inches (5 cm) below the surface. After you plant, the waiting game begins. Spend the winter digging up recipes and ways to eat your aromatic treats, which will be ready for harvest in the summer, once a few of the bottom leaves have died.

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food for thought by Jennifer Sygo nutritionist

the CUBICLE

Challenge Because busy schedules demand some tight manoeuvring when it comes to eating right during the workweek, we’ve rounded up seven quick fixes to help you eat healthier and feel better during the day.

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If you work in an office, there’s a good chance that, at one point or another, you’ve pulled out your lunch, munched mindlessly while checking email or surfing the Internet—and completely forgotten what you have eaten five minutes later. Or maybe you’re more the type who rushes out, picks up a quick bite and swallows it whole on the way back to your desk. Or perhaps you’re all about the modern-day liquid lunch—a coffee or latte, possibly paired with a bagel, cookie or scone—looking for a boost to get you through the busy afternoon. You know you’re short-changing both your health and the pleasure of an unhurried lunch, but in a time-crunched world, quick fix options have become the norm. Because a two-hour lunch and siesta is out of the question, try one or more—or all—of these solid solutions to the most common bad habits. Problem #1: You eat at your desk. Solution: Try getting up and getting out.

Eating in front of your computer instead of taking a break not only lowers productivity, but it can also contribute to overeating and weight gain. In a study published in The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition in 2011, researchers who asked 44 people to play solitaire on the computer while eating a standard-sized lunch found that gamers not only snacked more in the afternoon, but they couldn’t fully recall what they had eaten just a half-hour later. So, instead of checking your inbox for the hundredth time (don’t worry—it will still be there when you get back), try heading to the lunchroom to grab a bite with colleagues, or better yet, get outside and enjoy a breath of fresh air while you eat. Problem #2: You rely on caffeine to get through the day. Solution: Power down electronics in the evening.

Odds are good that if you’re a java junkie, it’s at least partly to overcome a lack of sleep. While busy lifestyles and long commutes can leave us feeling run down, researchers are finding that our exposure to screen time could be part of the problem. Why? Because the light from laptops and smartphones disrupts our circadian rhythms, those natural internal cues that tell us when to sleep and when to wake up. In other words, shutting down an hour or two before bed could be all you need to get a better sleep—and that, in turn, can keep you off the joe (not to mention the cookie that goes with it). You might also consider an early afternoon cut-off point for caffeine: It can take seven hours or more to get a single cup of coffee entirely out of our system.

It’s been proven! Eating well at work helps to: › Lower stress › Reduce risk of disease › Boost energy › Improve mood › Optimize performance

The caffeine calculator For 1 cup (250 ml) Except when noted otherwise

Filter coffee

180

Percolated coffee

120

Instant coffee Illustrator marie mainguy

Caffeine content in milligrams

75 to 105

Short espresso (30 ml)

40

Black tea

50

Green tea

30

Decaf coffee

0 to 5

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Problem #3: You’re susceptible to sweets. Solution: Learn how to be a more balanced snacker.

Protein-rich foods For a good source of protein at breakfast or lunch, reach for these items. › Almonds or nuts ½ cup (85 g) › Cottage cheese ½ cup (127 g) › Legumes ¾ to 1 cup (110 to 155 g) › Chicken, ½ breast or 1 thigh (1 cup/150 g) › Two hard-boiled eggs › Two slices of cheese › Fish or seafood 2 ½ oz (170 g) › Salmon or tuna, ½ of a 170 g can, undrained › Tofu, ½ cup (110 g soft, 90 g firm) › Meat, 2 ½ oz (170 g) › Greek yogurt, ¾ cup (175 g)

Despite what you might have heard, carbohydrates are a great energy food. And the best kind of carbohydrates—those from whole fruits, fresh vegetables, oatmeal, wild rice, beans, quinoa and dense, whole-grain breads—provide both our body and brain with energy and important nutrients, such as fibre and folate. The problem? Even the best carbohydrates, when eaten alone, can cause blood sugar to rise and fall, triggering those dreaded cravings. Combat the crash by planning a morning and afternoon snack that includes both protein and carbohydrates, and plan to eat about a half-hour before those cravings usually kick in. Tasty and convenient options include Greek yogurt with berries, aged cheddar with whole-grain crackers, an apple with almond butter or sunflower seeds with raisins. The combination of protein and carbohydrates could keep you out of the mid-morning donut rut. Common culprits

Better options

In a meeting Cookies Donuts Oversized muffins Pastry platter

Fresh fruit High fibre cereal bar (look for at least 4 g fibre per bar) Yogurt and granola Fruit and cheese platter

During crunch time or long days at work Pepperoni and cheese pizza Club sandwich with fries Bacon cheeseburger Chips and dip Soft drink or energy drink Cookies Coffee, coffee, coffee!

Cheese pizza with extra vegetables Grilled chicken wrap or salad Sushi or Asian meal soup Tortillas and salsa Milk, soy milk or tomato/vegetable juice Milk or dark chocolate covered almonds Tea, tea, tea (2 to 6 times less caffeine)

Problem #4: You work late and come home starving. Solution: Keep a few mini-meals handy for the dinner hour.

If you regularly work late, chances are you’ve come home with a case of the “hangries”: that ugly point where your mood and your energy have crashed due to hunger, making you prone to eating the first thing you see or picking up something less-than-nourishing on the way home. If you tend to have late-afternoon meetings or frequently work through the dinner hour, try keeping some snacks in your desk, briefcase or car. Try mini cans of flavoured tuna with flatbread crackers, packages of unsweetened oatmeal and a container of raisins (add milk for protein) or even just a bag of almonds. They might not be gourmet dinners, but they can really take the edge off until you get home. See sidebar for more ideas.

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Problem #5: You can’t ignore the candy bowl. Solution: Keep goodies out of sight.

In a classic study, researcher Brian Wansink and associates at Cornell University examined the impact of the proximity of candy and our eating behaviours. The results were intriguing: When a group of 40 office workers were given free chocolates, they ate significantly more if the chocolates were in a clear bowl rather than an opaque one. They fared best, however, if the chocolates were placed three feet away—just enough to force them to get out of their chairs to get their fix. As well, subjects underestimated how many candies they ate when they were right in front of them and overestimated their intake if they had to get up to seek out the treat. It’s not that we are too weak to say no, it’s simply that the constant temptation of having sweets—actually, any food—right in front of us eventually wears us down. So, if you’re going to keep something in plain sight, make it veggie sticks, fresh fruits, sparkling water or herbal teas. These are hard to overdo and could help you overcome the urge to nosh on nutritionally empty foods. Problem #6: You eat breakfast at the office. Solution: Eat breakfast at home.

We all know breakfast is the most important meal of the day, yet many of us still struggle to actually eat it. The benefits of a regular breakfast can not only have a positive affect on your waistline, but also help you think more clearly and have faster recall. In a rush? Smoothies, yogurt and granola, or a whole-grain pita with peanut or almond butter are good options to get you well-fuelled in a hurry. If you must eat at work, however, try buying or bringing some oatmeal, preferably plain, so you can control the sugar you add in. Top with sliced almonds or walnuts, fresh berries or dried fruit, and some milk or soy beverage for protein. Problem #7: You buy lunch every day. Solution: Brown bag it once a week.

If you’re totally out of the habit of bringing your lunch, it’s probably not realistic to say you’ll bring it every day. So think big, but start small: One day per week is a great start—just try to make it the same day each week to encourage routine and make planning easier. A whole wheat wrap with last night’s leftover roast beef, grilled chicken or pork tenderloin is always delicious the next day. Toss in some arugula, sliced cherry tomatoes, avocado, Dijon mustard or a simple aioli (make a batch with ½ cup (125 ml) of mayo, combined with 2 tbsp (30 ml) of olive oil and 1 tbsp (15 ml) of lemon juice, seasoned with garlic and kosher salt to taste) and you’ll erase any and all memories of stale schoolyard sandwiches. You can also skip the wrap and use your favourite salad greens as a base, adding pumpkin seeds and dried cranberries, along with meat, tofu or a hard-boiled egg for protein. Dressings can either be kept at work or prepped at home with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, Dijon mustard and honey.

10 emergency snacks If you have a headache, are in a bad mood or are simply starving, don’t wait to go out for a bite. Instead, keep these essentials on hand at the office (or in your bag) to stave off hunger—and the dreaded vending machine. 1 › I nstant oatmeal packs (cook in the microwave with water or milk) 2 › B  reakfast cereal 3 › G  ranola bars or fruit and nuts bars (the shorter the ingredients list, the better) 4 › C  rackers (rye, multigrain, dried fruit and nut, sesame, rice cakes) 5 › Tomato juice 6 › Small cans of tuna 7 › Nuts (pistachios, pecans, peanuts, tamari almonds) 8 › Seeds (pumpkin, sunflower, sesame) 9 › Fruit compote (no sugar added) 10 › D  ried fruits (apricots, cranberries, dates, figs, pitted prunes)

THE BOTTOM LINE

It doesn’t take heroics to eat well at work, but it does take a bit of planning. By bringing a few balanced snacks, keeping an emergency stash for late nights, and prepping a quality breakfast or lunch at home, you can set yourself up to walk away from the donuts, coffee and bagels that have become the cornerstone of so many workdays. Not only will you feel better for it, but your taste buds will thank you for making their world more interesting. ricardocuisine.com

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The guide

by christina blais nutritionist

Know your Beef

top 10 cuts for grilling photographer david de stefano Food stylist étienne Marquis

The meat counter can be confusing. It’s usually heavy on choice but light on actual information. Here’s the scoop on our favourite grilling beef cuts—all delicious, and fit f0r every budget.

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The

classic cuts

1 Tenderloin

1/ Tenderloin › Other names : The French term filet mignon is widely used. It can also be referred to as filet steak, medallions or chateaubriand (especially in France). › Characteristics : The tenderloin is by far the most tender beef cut and because it is very lean, its flavour is quite delicate. The texture is almost buttery and very uniform, as it contains little connective tissue or fat. If you’re buying a chateaubriand, make sure that the meat actually comes from the filet. Also, be careful not to confuse tournedos with filet. The term tournedos can refer to any cut that has been tied with string into a round shape. They are typically made with inside or outside round steak from the thigh. Definitely less tender than tenderloin! › Best cooked : Rare or medium rare. This steak is prone to drying out, so be careful not to overcook it.

2 Top Sirloin

2/ Top Sirloin › Other names : Top sirloin butt, rump steak. › Characteristics : The top sirloin is less tender than the strip loin and rib-eye, but more affordable and just as delicious. And although it sounds similar to top sirloin, sirloin tip is cut closer to the animal’s thigh and is a much tougher cut of beef. › Best cooked: Rare or medium rare.

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3 Strip Loin

3/ Strip Loin › Other names : Contre-filet. On menus and in the U.S., it is often called New York strip, or Kansas strip (if the bone is left in). › Characteristics : The strip loin is a similar cut to the filet, but not quite as tender. It does, however, have much more marbling, so it’s juicy and flavourful. It also has a fairly fine and uniform grain. › Best cooked : Rare or medium rare.

4 Rib Steak

4/ Rib Steak & Rib-Eye › Other names : On menus in the U.S., they are often referred to as Cowboy (for the rib steak) or Delmonico (for the rib-eye). › Characteristics : A rib-eye is the term for a de-boned rib steak. Grill enthusiasts favour these cuts because they deliver bold beef aromas. The reason? They are well-marbled with a characteristic chunk of fat called a fat plug, which is where the flavour, tenderness and juiciness all come from. The size of the fat plug decreases from the front to the back of the animal. If you prefer something leaner, ask the butcher for steaks cut from the lower rib cage. › Best cooked : Rare or medium rare.

4 Rib-Eye

5/ T-bone › Other names : Porterhouse is the term for cuts with a greater amount of tenderloin. › Characteristics : With a T-bone steak, you have the best of both worlds: A bit of tenderloin and a generous portion of strip loin. The porterhouse is cut from the bottom of the loin (closer to the hip) and offers more filet meat than a T-bone, which is cut from the middle. Both are tender and delicious. › Best cooked : Rare or medium rare.

5 T-bone

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6/ Bottom sirloin tri-tip › Other names: Triangle, rump tail. In the U.S., it’s often called Santa Maria steak. › Characteristics: The tri-tip is a relatively unknown cut quickly gaining popularity. It’s lean, tender and offers great value. This muscle features a fine, uniform grain, little fat and no bone—so minimal trimming is required. The cut can be bought whole and cooked as a roast or sliced into steaks. As a roast, its uneven shape allows for two different levels of doneness: Rare in the thickest part and medium rare in the thinner portion. › Best cooked: Rare or medium rare. Avoid overcooking, which will dry out the meat. Must be sliced thinly against the grain. Leftovers are perfect in sandwiches.

The

up-and-comers

6 B  ottom sirloin tri-tip

7/ Flank › Characteristics: This flat and oblong muscle is easy to recognize because of its visible grain, formed by long muscle fibres running in parallel bands. It has a beautiful beefy flavour and is actually very tender—contrary to popular belief—as long as it is sliced thinly against the grain. › Best cooked: Rare or medium rare. Flank steak can be cooked whole or in thin strips. It is ideal for skewers, satays, fajitas and warm salads.

8/ Bottom Sirloin Flap › Other name: In France and Quebec, it is referred to as bavette. › Characteristics: This flavourful cut was popularized in French bistros with the classic Bavette à l’échalote, a seared flap steak served with a shallot sauce. Think of it as flank steak’s sophisticated cousin, with a slightly coarser grain. It is also more tender than flank (thanks to all the marbling) and just as tasty. › Best cooked: Rare or medium rare. It must be sliced against the grain. It is delicious as a steak, but also in strips in fajitas or warm salads.

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7 Flank

8 B  ottom Sirloin Flap

The

There are treasures waiting to be discovered behind your butcher’s counter. You probably won’t find these cuts in large supermarket chains. Instead, visit a butcher shop that still cuts meat from half carcasses or order them ahead of time from any meat counter. Price and availability will vary. Because of relatively low demand, they’re slightly less expensive than the classic cuts—for now.

two to discover 

9/ Skirt  › Other name: Plate steak in Western Canada. › Characteristics: This long, flat muscle surrounds the animal’s abdominal cavity. There are two skirts: inside and outside. Skirt steaks are fatty and have a very coarse grain with an obvious direction, giving them hearty flavour and a texture similar to that of the bottom sirloin flap. › Best cooked: Rare or medium rare. Must be sliced thinly against the grain. Commonly used in fajitas (and sometimes called fajita steak). To serve as a steak, choose an outside piece, which tends to be thicker with a more intense flavour.

10/ Hanger 10 Hanger

9 Skirt

› Other name: In France and Quebec, this is referred to as onglet. › Characteristics: The hanger connects the animal’s diaphragm to the area behind the last rib, near the kidneys. It is made up of two oblong muscles held together with elastic connective tissue. (A good butcher will separate the two muscles before selling them.) The hanger steak has a coarse, visible grain made of short transversal muscle fibres. It offers deep flavour and lovely tenderness (even better than bottom sirloin flap), making it a favourite among those in the know— including butchers, who often keep it for themselves. This is perhaps why it is sometimes nicknamed butcher’s steak. › Best cooked: Medium rare. Must be sliced thinly against the grain. Excellent enjoyed as a steak.

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How it’s done: Cutting against the grain Cuts like bottom sirloin flap, hanger, tri-tip and flank must always be sliced against the grain. This cuts their long bundles of muscle fibres into small, easy-to-chew pieces. Here’s the technique. 1. Determine the direction of the fibres and position the piece of meat on the cutting board so they run horizontally. 2. Slice across the grain, at a right angle.

d of irec th tio ef n ibr e

Tender vs. Tough Whether a steak is tender or tough all comes down to exercise. The more a muscle is used, the more firmly it is attached to the animal’s skeleton by tough and stretchy interwoven fibres called connective tissue (which supports and connects muscles together). The more tissue there is, the tougher the meat. Thus, tender cuts come from areas where the muscles are rarely exercised (like ribs, loin and sirloin). Another important factor when it comes to taste and tenderness is marbling, a term that refers to the presence of thin strands of intramuscular fat that lend the meat a marble pattern. This is what gives red meat its succulent flavour and melt-in-your-mouth texture. Always choose a cut of beef with plenty of marbling. The more, the better! Note that the layer of the fat surrounding a piece of meat isn’t a factor in its tenderness. In Canada and the U.S., one of four quality grades is assigned to beef depending on the amount of marbling: A (the least marbled), AA or AAA (the most marbled) and prime, which is even more marbled than AAA and primarily sold to restaurants. Less than 3% of all the beef sold in Canada earns the prime grade. Current regulations require that quality grades appear next to beef cuts advertised in sales flyers, but unfortunately, they aren’t always marked right on the packaging in the store. Large supermarket chains stock mostly A and AA beef in the regular meat display, but will carry AAA beef at a separate butcher counter or package them with special logos or brands highlighting the grade. Confused? Just ask the butcher for help.

The test Cut with the grain: Long, fibrous strips that are difficult to chew

A well-marbled cut (AAA) melts in your mouth

A cut with minimal marbling (A) can be less tasty

Name that meat Cut against the grain: Short fibres that are easy to chew

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To keep things simple, we have used the standardized names recommended by the Canadian Food Inspection Agency. Our kitchen team even went on a recon mission and found that although most major grocery stores abide by the same vernacular, that’s not always the case with independent shops. Your best bet? Learn the lingo, know what you want and strike up a conversation with the butcher.

WHY I LOVE IT › 3-Ply Stainless Steel Cookware The design is simply brilliant. The unique handle holds cooking tools firmly in place so food drips fall into the pan, not onto your stove. The 3-ply stainless steel construction distributes heat evenly right up to the rim, leaving no hot spots. Bonus: The oven-safe tempered-glass lid lets you check on what you’re cooking without letting the heat out.

For more information, visit our website at ricardocuisine.com/boutique or call 1 866-266-9222

WHERE FARM FOLLOWS FUNCTION Welcome to a hotel where nature meets sophistication. Design meets comfort. And rural meets urban. At Hôtel La Ferme, you can relax, explore, and indulge in a range of amenities in which the landscape becomes part of the experience.

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Weekday Wonders

Photographer Mathieu Lévesque Accessories stylist Sylvain riel Food stylist étienne Marquis

Meals are ready extra-quickly with these easy recipes

5 recipes

10 meals

One delicious week

These recipes do double duty, yielding dinner for four and leftovers for two, that, with a few simple tweaks, are barely recognizable as last night’s supper. Takeout? Not on our watch!

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Sunday

+ 46

Dinner veal kefta sandwiches › p. 52

Monday Lunch green salad with kefta and lemon vinaigrette › p. 52 Fall 2014

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Monday

+

Dinner asian style sheet pan chicken › p. 54

Tuesday Lunch leftover chicken fried rice › p. 52 ricardocuisine.com

Fall 2014

47

Tuesday

+ 48

Dinner slow cooker braised beef with anchovies (provençal broufado) › p. 54

Wednesday Lunch braised beef with anchovy pasta › p. 54 Fall 2014

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Wednesday

+

Dinner eggplant parmigiana › p. 56

Thursday Lunch eggplant parmigiana & garden salad › p. 56

Thursday

+ 50

Friday Lunch fish tacos › p. 56 Fall 2014

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Dinner pan-seared tilapia and sautéed vegetables › p. 56

5

Weekday

lunches

1Monday

1/ green salad with kefta and lemon vinaigrette Instead of just making a sandwich with leftover meat, try tossing it into a salad. Kefta, spicy Middle Eastern meat skewers, work perfectly because they’re tasty served warm or cold. 2/ leftover chicken fried rice Successfully repurposing leftovers is all about infusing them with new personality, using other cooking techniques and a few different ingredients. Here, the original dish is transformed into chicken fried rice by adding fish sauce, turmeric and peas. These new flavours underscore this dish’s Asian roots. 3/ braised beef with anchovy pasta Slow-cooked dishes reheat wonderfully. In fact, they’re often better the next day. Serve the braised beef over pasta instead of mashed potatoes. Add a few cherry tomatoes, some grated Parmesan cheese and you’ll feel like you’re eating an entirely new dish.

2 3 Wednesday

Tuesday

4 5 Friday

Thursday

4/ Eggplant Parmigiana & Garden Salad Eggplant Parmigiana can easily be reheated in the microwave for lunch. Serve as-is or, for a more complete meal, add a garden salad and a piece of bread. 5/ Fish Tacos Fish tends to dry out when it’s cooked twice, especially in the microwave. Avoid this by turning that tilapia and vegetable stir-fry into taco fixings, which can be eaten warm or cold. Simply add salsa, cilantro and sour cream, and you’ve got a delicious Mexican-inspired meal. ricardocuisine.com

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veal kefta sandwiches photo p. 46 preparation 30 minutes cooking 15 minutes servings 4 to 6

Kefta 1 ½ lb (675 g) ground veal onion, finely chopped 1 2 eggs cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 ¼ cup (32 g) bread crumbs (15 ml) harissa (see note) 1 tbsp or 1 tsp (5 ml) Tabasco sauce (5 ml) salt 1 tsp (2.5 ml) ground coriander ½ tsp ½ tsp (2.5 ml) ground fennel disposable sushi chopsticks or bamboo skewers, 12 about 7 inches (18 cm) long Pepper

Quick Coleslaw 3 cups cup

(300 g) shredded cabbage, store-bought (150 ml) tzatziki, store-bought

green salad with kefta and lemon vinaigrette photo p. 51 preparation servings 2

15 minutes

3 tbsp (45 ml) olive oil (15 ml) lemon juice 1 tbsp 4 cups (95 g) shredded Boston lettuce (or other) cherry tomatoes, halved 8 1 baby cucumber, sliced 2 green onions, thinly sliced Salt and pepper 4 veal kefta (see recipe at left) Tzatziki, to taste

1 In a bowl, whisk the oil and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. 2 Divide the lettuce, tomato, cucumber and green onion onto two plates or in two sealable lunch containers. Place the cold kefta over the salad. Drizzle with the vinaigrette just before serving. If desired, serve with a little tzatziki.

Toppings Harissa, to taste (optional) 8 whole-grain flatbreads or hot dog buns 8 large green olives, thinly sliced Mint leaves, to taste

Kefta 1 In a bowl, combine all the ingredients. Season with pepper. 2 With a ¼-cup (60 ml) ice cream scoop, form 12 balls. With your hands, shape the meat into a long sausage around each skewer. Set aside. 3 Preheat the grill, setting the burners to high. Oil the grate. 4 Grill the kefta skewers for about 4 minutes on each side or until the meat is cooked. Quickly toast the flatbreads or buns. Quick Coleslaw 5 Meanwhile, combine the cabbage with the tzatziki. Lightly season with salt (tzatziki is usually already seasoned) and pepper. Set aside. Assembly 6 Brush the kefta skewers with a little harissa. Fill the bread with coleslaw, a kefta, olives and mint leaves. note

Harissa is a paste made from hot peppers, garlic and spices. It is a popular condiment in North African cuisine.

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leftover chicken fried rice photo p. 51 preparation 10 minutes cooking 5 minutes servings 2

½ cup (70 g) frozen green peas 1 tbsp (15 ml) olive oil 1 ½ cups (255 g) leftover Asian Style Sheet Pan Chicken (see recipe p. 54) 1 ½ cups (225 g) leftover cooked rice 1 tbsp (15 ml) fish sauce (nuoc mam) ½ tsp (2.5 ml) turmeric

1 Place the frozen peas in a sieve and rinse under hot water until thawed, about 30 seconds. 2 In a non-stick skillet, combine the remaining ingredients. Add the peas. Cook over high heat for about 5 minutes or until the rice is warm.

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asian style sheet pan chicken photo p. 47 preparation 15 minutes cooking 20 minutes servings 6

Rice 4 cups 2 cups

(1 litre) chicken broth (400 g) parboiled rice

Chicken 6 skinless and boneless chicken thighs 2 cups (200 g) shredded green cabbage 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 red bell pepper, cut into strips 1 broccoli, cut into large florets ¼ lb (115 g) snow peas, trimmed and halved 3 tbsp (45 ml) olive oil cup (75 ml) hoisin sauce (see note) ½ tsp (2.5 ml) Tabasco sauce Salt and pepper

Rice 1 In a saucepan, bring the chicken broth to a boil. Add the rice. Cover, reduce the heat and simmer for about 18 minutes or until the liquid has been absorbed. Remove from the heat. Stir and let rest covered for 3 to 5 minutes, until the rice is tender. Chicken 2 With the rack in the highest position, preheat the oven’s broiler. 3 Place the chicken opened flat on one half of a baking sheet. Place the vegetables on the other half. Drizzle the oil over the vegetables and toss lightly. Season with salt and pepper. 4 Broil for about 15 minutes or until the chicken and vegetables are cooked. Remove from the oven. Cut the meat into thin strips. Combine the chicken and vegetables with the hoisin sauce and sambal oelek. Serve with the rice. If desired, keep 1 ½ cups of the rice and 1 ½ cups of the chicken for Leftover Chicken Fried Rice. note

Hoisin is a thick sauce typically made from soy, red chilies and garlic. It is commonly used in Chinese cuisine.

slow cooker braised beef with anchovies (provençal broufado) photo p. 48 preparation 15 minutes cooking 8 hours servings 6 to 8

SLOW COOKER RECIPE

2 ¼ cup ¼ cup 1 tsp 8 1 2 3 lb

large Spanish onions, thinly sliced (60 ml) olive oil (12 g) chopped flat-leaf parsley (5 ml) capers, drained and chopped anchovy fillets, chopped bay leaf whole cloves (1.5 kg) boneless beef blade, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes or 3 lb (1.5 kg) skirt or flap steaks, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) thick slices Salt and pepper

1 In a bowl, combine the onions, oil, parsley, capers, anchovies, bay leaf and cloves. Season with salt and pepper. 2 Spread one-third of the onion mixture in the slow cooker. Layer with half of the meat. Add another third of onions, then the rest of the meat. Top with the remaining onions. 3 Cover and cook on low for 8 hours. Serve with mashed potatoes and a green vegetable.

braised beef with anchovy pasta photo p. 51 preparation 10 minutes cooking 5 minutes servings 2

1 cup

Braised Beef with Anchovies (see recipe above) 1 cup (250 ml) Braised Beef with Anchovy cooking juices 2 cups (270 g) cooked short pasta (About 1 ¼ cups/125 g uncooked pasta) 1 cup (175 g) cherry tomatoes, halved ¼ cup (25 g) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Salt and pepper

1 Coarsely chop the braised beef and onion mixture. In a small saucepan, gently warm with the cooking juices. 2 In a large bowl, combine the warm beef with the remaining ingredients and toss well. Season with salt and pepper.

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THE ONE.

THE ONLY.

THE ULTIMATE COOKING CHEESE. Melting and stretching to perfection, Mozzarellissima is the only cheese you need for all your baked family favourites. With its buttery flavour and rich golden melt, it’s no wonder it’s the leading mozzarella chosen by Canadian pizza chefs since 1954.

The mozzarella that stretches as long as its name.TM Discover our recipes at saputo.ca

eggplant parmigiana

pan-seared tilapia and sautéed vegetables

photo p. 49

photo p. 50

preparation 20 minutes cooking 45 minutes servings 6 to 8 (as a side dish)

preparation 15 minutes cooking 15 minutes servings 4 to 6

Eggplant

2 stalks celery, thinly sliced red or yellow bell peppers, cut into strips 2 1 small onion, thinly sliced zucchini, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) thick half rings 1 ¼ lb (115 g) white mushrooms, cut into thick slices cup (75 ml) olive oil 19 oz (540 ml) red kidney beans, rinsed and drained 1 can ½ cup (125 ml) store-bought salsa ¼ cup (12 g) fresh cilantro 5 fresh tilapia (or haddock) fillets Salt and pepper

3 ¾ cup

large eggplants, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) thick slices (180 ml) olive oil

Tomato Sauce 1 2 2 tbsp 1 can

onion, finely chopped cloves garlic, finely chopped (30 ml) olive oil 28 oz (796 ml) crushed tomatoes

Toppings 12 leaves basil, torn (380 g) grated mozzarella cheese 13 oz ¾ cup (75 g) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Salt and pepper

Eggplant 1 Preheat the oven to 425°F (225°C). Place the first rack in the lowest position of the oven, and the second in the middle. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper. 2 Brush the eggplant slices with the oil on both sides. Season with salt and pepper. Place on the baking sheets and bake for about 15 minutes or until tender. Tomato Sauce 3 Meanwhile, in a saucepan over medium heat, soften the onion and garlic in the oil. Add the tomatoes and simmer, stirring occasionally for about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Assembly 4 At the bottom of a 13 x 9-inch (33 x 23 cm) baking dish, spread ½ cup (125 ml) of tomato sauce. Cover with one-third of the eggplant slices. Spread 1 cup (250 ml) of tomato sauce and sprinkle with one-third of the basil leaves. Sprinkle one-third of the mozzarella and Parmesan. Repeat with the remaining ingredients. 5 Bake for about 25 minutes or until the cheese is golden brown. Serve with grilled pork chops, pan-seared veal cutlets or a simple store-bought rotisserie chicken.

eggplant parmigiana & garden salad photo p. 51 The Eggplant Parmigiana reheats well in the microwave. Simply serve with a side of salad and fresh bread.

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1 In a large skillet over high heat, brown all the vegetables in 3 tbsp (45 ml) of the oil until al dente. Add the beans and salsa and continue cooking for about 2 minutes. Add the cilantro. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. 2 In a non-stick skillet, brown the fish on both sides in the remaining oil. Season with salt and pepper. Serve the fish with the sautéed vegetables.

fish tacos photo p. 51 Serve the cold fish and sautéed vegetables in taco shells and garnish with salsa, cilantro and sour cream.

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Photographer Christian Lacroix Accessories stylist Sylvain Riel Food stylist Heidi Bronstein

SAFE EATS

Low-sugar muffins for diabetics

freezes

well

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Although many store-bought muffins are just cupcakes in disguise, these are quite the opposite. In fact, they were designed to help those with diabetes stabilize blood sugar levels and have a nutritionists’ stamp of approval. Evidently, our Test Kitchen strikes again. Berry and Pistachio Muffins preparation 20 minutes cooking 20 to 22 minutes makes 12 freezes well

1 cup ½ cup ½ cup 6 tbsp ½ tsp ½ tsp 2 ½ cup ¼ cup 1 1 1 tbsp ¾ cup ¾ cup ¼ cup

(140 g) unbleached all-purpose flour (60 g) wheat germ (50 g) quick cooking rolled oats (90 g) lightly packed brown sugar (2.5 ml) baking powder (2.5 ml) baking soda eggs (125 g) Greek yogurt (60 ml) canola oil orange, grated zest only lemon, grated zest only (15 ml) lemon juice (98 g) fresh or frozen raspberries (see note) (113 g) fresh or frozen blueberries or blackberries (33 g) unsalted pistachios, finely chopped

1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line 12 muffin cups with paper or silicone liners. 2 In a bowl, combine the flour, wheat germ, oats, brown sugar, baking powder and baking soda. Set aside. 3 In a large bowl, combine the eggs, yogurt, oil, citrus zest and lemon juice with a whisk. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, stir in the dry ingredients until just combined. Gently stir in the berries. 4 Divide the batter into the muffin cups. Sprinkle the muffin tops with the pistachios. Bake for 20 to 22 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the centre of a muffin comes out clean. Let cool. noteS

If using frozen berries, do not thaw them before adding to the mixture, and bake for an additional 6 to 8 minutes.

striking the perfect balance

A balanced diet can have a huge positive impact on diabetes. For any diabetic, between-meal snacks can be precious allies to help maintain stable blood sugar levels throughout the day. However, it’s not always easy to find foods or recipes that won’t cause a spike: Some are too rich in carbohydrates, while others don’t contain enough fibre or protein. To address this important issue, the test kitchen took on the challenge of developing a recipe that will help in a pinch. The result? Surprisingly good muffins that will keep the blood sugar safe from roller-coaster ups and downs by offering the perfect balance of fibre and protein, but almost no sugar (24 g of carbs, 6 g of protein and 3 g of fibre). And they’re so tasty that even the team eats them for breakfast! — Sarah Lalanne, Nutritionist at Ricardo

3 more SNACK ideas

When hunger strikes and carbohydrate reserves are running low, reach for one of these snacks. They contain 5 grams of carbohydrates or fewer. 1. Movie-time treat 1 cup (250 g) of plain popcorn drizzled with a splash of olive oil and topped with a few dashes of herbes de Provence, paprika or mustard seeds. 2. Snack on a stick Just skewer one cherry tomato, one mini-bocconcini and a fresh basil leaf. Simple and so good. 3. Go for the crunch A crisp celery stick smothered in nut butter, topped with a few pecans and a dash of cinnamon.

The muffins will keep for 3 to 4 days in an airtight container.

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FAMILY RECIPE by David Rollins

Luck of the Lao

Larb, the national dish of Laos, is said to bring luck. We were treated to one prepared by Thimalay Sukhaseum and her family, who happily revealed the dish’s traditional roots. 60

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Larb is a dish that Thimalay (at right) learned from her mother Souk-daray. Now, she’s passing the tr adition on to the next generation: her daughter Laossa.

Larb › p. 62

photographer rob lee food STYLIST heidi bronstein

Sordi, seun seb. Good luck and bon appetit. It’s what you say at the beginning of a meal in Laos. And larb—a simple dish of spiced meat on lettuce leaves—is served to help bring this luck. “It’s made to celebrate births and marriages, and important turning points. I just served it at a goodbye party for a close friend who’s moving away,” says Thimalay, who made larb for us with the help of her mother Souk-daray, her husband Antoine and their children Loah, Lika and Laossa. More than 30 years ago, at age 2, Thimalay was carried across the Mekong River in her mother’s arms as they fled Laos in search of a better life. They lived three years in a Thai refugee camp before coming to Canada in 1984. “In the end, it was really just luck that brought us here,” her mother confides. She’s proud of her daughter’s success (Thimalay works at one of Canada’s leading ad agencies) and of the way she honours her roots. “The dish we’re sharing today comes from who I am, as both a girl from Laos and a woman from Canada,” Thimalay says. “It’s a dish I learned from my mother, who learned it from her grandmother.” Trying to mind our manners Tradition dictates that larb be eaten with your hands, which can be very entertaining. You yank off bits of rice—sticky and soft—and carefully roll them up with the flavoured meat. There are big rolls and baby rolls; spicy ones with chili sauce and sweet ones full of diced mango. The lettuce tears, the filling scatters, reaching across the table for a sprig of cilantro or a squeeze of lime is the norm. You try not to talk with your mouth full or to stuff food into it with both hands, but you can't help it: It's so good!

Southeast asian flavours

Bird’s-Eye Chilies They’re small in size but these peppers are big on heat! According to the Scoville scale, they have an intensity similar to habaneros or Scotch bonnets.

Lemongrass This amazing herb brings a light hint of lemony zest to Asian dishes like Thai soups and curries. ricardocuisine.com

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Sukhaseum Family Larb preparation 20 minutes resting 2 to 12 hours cooking 30 minutes servings 4 

Sticky Rice 1 ½ cups (300 g) glutinous rice (see note)

Beef

Rice is a staple in cuisines around the world but a preference for the sticky (or glutinous) variety is particular to Laos and northern Thailand. Although traditionally cooked in a Houat and served in a Tip Khao (both types of bamboo baskets), a regular steamer and bowl will do the trick.

2 2 tbsp 2 tbsp 2 tbsp 1 lb 3 tbsp 2 tbsp 3 tbsp 2 tbsp ½ cup 2 tbsp

cloves garlic, peeled and lightly crushed (30 ml) toasted sesame oil (26 g) sugar (30 ml) fish sauce (454 g) lean ground beef (45 ml) oyster sauce (30 ml) maple syrup (45 ml) lime juice (14 g) finely chopped lemongrass (about 1 stalk) (23 g) chopped fresh cilantro (6 g) chopped fresh mint



Chopped fresh chili, to taste

Toppings 1 ½

mango, peeled and diced English cucumber, sliced Boston lettuce leaves Cilantro leaves Lime wedges

Sticky Rice 1 In a large bowl, place the rice. Cover with a very large quantity of cold water. Let soak for 2 to 12 hours. Drain the rice.

There are as many versions of larb as there are cooks who prepare it; you can make it from chicken, duck, pork, fish, even mushrooms. But the essential character of the dish’s seasoning is the same everywhere: a balanced Southeast Asian mix of sweet, salty, sour and spicy flavours. And the rice? It is served in individual wicker baskets with tight-fitting lids. “Close the lid quickly after you take some rice,” Souk-daray says. “It’s very unlucky to leave it open too long. You’ll become a widow, or divorced!” The meat receives several critical samplings as it cooks. “You have to ask yourself what it needs,” Souk-daray says. “If it’s too spicy, add a little more fish sauce. Too sour? A pinch of sugar. Too salty? Add some water. It’s always a little different every time you make it.” When we question the authenticity of the maple syrup in the recipe it, we’re given the reason. “Tradition is in the hands of the second generation now and it’s natural for them to adapt it. That’s how traditions stay alive.”

2 In a steamer (bamboo or metal) placed on top of a pot of boiling water, place the rice. Cover and cook over medium-high heat for about 20 minutes or until the rice is soft. Remove from the heat. Let rest while preparing the meat. Beef 3 In a large skillet over high heat, brown the garlic in the oil with the sugar and fish sauce. 4 Add the meat and fry while breaking up with a wooden spoon. 5 Add the oyster sauce and maple syrup. Continue cooking over medium heat until the meat is caramelized and crispy and very little liquid remains in the skillet. At the end of cooking, add the lime juice and lemongrass. Sprinkle with the fresh herbs and chili pepper. 6 Serve the rice, meat and toppings at the centre of the table. Allow each guest to garnish their own lettuce roll. NOTE

You can find sticky rice, also called glutinous rice, in Asian grocery stores. 62

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This fish is totally off the hook! The next wave in high-quality seafood that is boneless, low in sodium and sustainably harvested by small-scale fisheries. At SEA DELIGHT, we’re seafood pioneers. With offices in Miami, Canada and the Canary Islands, we work hand-in-hand with WWF-Indonesia and WWF-Vietnam to promote local fisheries, avoid overfishing and to develop best practices for an industry that is sustainable and which respects the needs of generations to come. Ask for us at your local fish shop.

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Food Lab chimie alimentaire

Photographer Mathieu Lévesque Accessories stylist Sylvain riel Food stylist étienne Marquis

by christina par christina blais blais nutritionist nutritionniste

The truth about

tofu

Let’s not sugar-coat things: Tofu’s reputation is lacklustre at best. And yet, it is handy, healthy and downright cheap. Not convinced? Let us show you the light.

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Tofu and its uses There are two categories of tofu: soft, which is also called silken (left) and the firmer pressed varieties (right). The two are used differently and can’t be substituted one for the other in a recipe. The flavour and texture of tofu also varies from one brand to another. The best way to find one to love? Try them all.

Type

Texture

Uses

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Soft or silken

Medium, firm or extra firm

Plain or flavoured (mango, banana, coconut, almond).

Plain or flavoured (ginger, vegetables, seaweed, herbs).

Fine, smooth, very tender, moist and gelatinous, similar to firm yogurt. Very easy to purée.

Varies from brand to brand, from moist and soft to dry and brittle. Can be sliced or crumbled. Keeps its shape well.

› Puréed: Sauces, dips, salad dressings, soups, smoothies, cake frosting and creamy desserts. › Cubed: Miso soup. › Flavoured: Eat it by the spoonful, like a dessert.

›S  liced or cubed: Frying, grilling, sautéing, breading or simmering in sauces or ragouts. ›C  rumbled or shredded: Sandwich spread (like an egg salad) or for replacing ground meat in a spaghetti sauce, chili or shepherd’s pie. › Puréed: Makes a great dip or spread with a bit more presence than those made with silken tofu. Also, perfect for quiches or cheesecakes.

ricardocuisine.com

How it’s made Tofu production requires two steps: The first is to make soy “milk” from soybeans, and the second is to turn that milk into the solid curd that is tofu.

1. From soy milk… Soybean milk comes from dried soybeans. First, the beans are soaked for several hours to soften them, then ground with water. The result is a porridge-like mix that is gently heated, then filtered to separate the white milk from the soy pulp. The pulp is sold for livestock feed, while the milk moves on to Step 2.

2. …to tofu The process is pretty similar to making cheese: The idea is to turn the soy milk’s protein into a solid by adding a coagulant. Several different thickening agents are available. Whichever one is used will determine both the texture and the nutritional value of the resulting tofu. Here is how the two common types of tofu are normally produced. › For pressed, firm varieties: Magnesium chloride or calcium chloride is added to the soy milk. Then the mixture is gently heated until the proteins start to bind, forming a curd. Next, the mixture is filtered so that just the soft protein curd is left. The curd is then pressed into blocks in perforated moulds until the desired firmness is reached. Pressing squeezes out part of the remaining liquid, thereby concentrating and firming the protein in the curd. The duration and intensity of the pressing determines whether or not the final tofu is medium, firm or extra firm. It takes about 1.5 litres of soy milk to make 500 grams of firm pressed tofu. › For soft, silken varieties: The coagulant for soft tofu is usually calcium sulphate and/or glucono delta-lactone (GDL), a natural acid found in fruits, wine and honey. The soy milk and coagulant are mixed together right in the container the tofu is sold in, then gently heated until the proteins form a soft gel.

Rich in protein? Yes, but… It’s true that tofu can be a good protein replacement for meat, but you have to take a close look at what you’re buying to make sure you’re eating enough. Firmer pressed tofu varieties average 15 to 17 grams of good quality protein per 100-gram serving. That is about the same amount of protein as a 60-gram serving of chicken or 70 grams of cheddar cheese. However, for softer tofu, the protein content is much lower. Expect to get only 5 or 6 grams of protein per 100 grams of silken tofu. You can always check the protein content and nutritional info on the product label.

With coagulants like these, the mix doesn’t form a curd, but gels instead into a soft, silky-textured mass that resembles yogurt or gelatin. Soft tofu is not drained or pressed, which is where the tender, moist texture comes from—as well as the lower protein content. It takes about 1.5 litres of soy milk to make 1.5 kilograms of silken tofu.

The first step in making tofu is to extract “milk” from soybeans.

tips for cooking firm tofu With these tried-and-true techniques, plain tofu goes from ho-hum to awesome. Guaranteed.

› Marinate it Tofu is like a sponge. It will happily absorb any flavour you want, as long as you marinate it long enough (turn to p. 70 for our Experiment). Slice or cube the tofu, then marinate it in the fridge for at least an hour—or better yet overnight, if you’re the planning type.

Store it right Tofu is a perishable product that is sold refrigerated, with the exception of Tetra Pak versions that are shelf-stable. Keep your tofu in the fridge and use it by the best-before date. Once the package is opened, keep unused portions in a sealed container covered with cold water and change the water daily. Expect the tofu to keep for 3 or 4 days. When the surface goes slick or it starts to smell sour, the tofu has turned.

› Coat it Dry coatings will stick beautifully to the moist surface of firm tofu, giving it a big hit of flavour in almost no time. It’s easy, too. Just toss your slices or cubes in a zip-top bag along with a spice mix, or rub the tofu with a paste made from spices, minced garlic and oil. Then you can fry, bake or add the tofu to a stir-fry.

› Give it some crunch A slice of fried, baked or sautéed tofu is a lot more interesting if it’s a little crispy on the outside, and soft and moist on the inside. Try tossing the tofu slices in sesame seeds, bread crumbs or finely chopped nuts before frying them in a little oil or baking them.

› Amp it up with cornstarch Another great way to enhance your tofu is to generously coat cubes or slices in cornstarch before pan-frying them in a little oil. The starch will form a golden, crunchy surface but keep the centre soft and moist. You can follow this by tossing your cubes in a sauce, adding them to a stir-fry or just popping them into your mouth, accompanied by a tasty dip.

› Cook it right You can use any of our preparation suggestions above or you can dry off the tofu and sear it over a medium-high heat in a little oil without moving it, for 3 or 4 minutes per side, or until it’s a nice golden brown.

› Crumble or shred it Once it’s broken up, tofu’s texture is a lot like that of ground beef, and can easily go unnoticed in a dish. So why not try a 50/50 tofu and meat mix in your favourite chili, tacos or shepherd’s pie? Tofu can also be shredded with a cheese grater, just like in the vegetable taco recipe on our website. web

For a nice crunch, toss tofu slices in sesame seeds.

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Ricardo’s favourite tofu recipe: General Tao Tofu. It is quick and easy to make–even on weeknights! For the recipe, visit ricardocuisine.com.

Enjoy a Triscuit made with Brown Rice, Sweet Potato and the smokEy FLavour of Caramelized Onion. Only a true visionary could have discovered caramelized onion. Who else could have reduced the crisp tang of onion into something sweet, smokey and incredible? To create the perfect brown rice and wheat cracker, we knew the flavour of caramelized onion had to be paired with an equally special ingredient: delicious sweet potato. You’ve never tasted a Triscuit like this.

Snack on, food lovers

/ TriscuitCanada

The marinade experiment › with Fresh tofu 30 minutes

60 minutes

Tips for cooking firm tofu (continued)

› Press it Firm tofu still has water in it, which tends to give it a slightly wet texture. If you want it drier, just press the water out. To do so, cut the tofu into ½-inch (1-2 cm) thick slices, then lay them between several paper towels. Next, weigh the tofu down by placing something heavy on top, such as a few cans of beans. Let the tofu drain for about a half-hour, changing the paper towels as needed. Once dry, the tofu will absorb the flavours from your recipe or marinade better. Believe it or not, you can also press silken tofu. Since it is usually too soft to slice, leave the block whole, then press as above, changing the paper towels as needed, for one or two hours. The end result will have the texture of cream cheese.

› Freeze it before prepping

12 hours

› with Frozen tofu 30 minutes

60 minutes

12 hours

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Freezing tofu before using it is a popular technique in Asia. As ice crystals form, they break up the tofu’s inner structure, making it spongier and improving its flavour-absorbing qualities. The method is simple: Cut the block into ½-inch (1-2 cm) slices, then lay a single layer into a freezer bag and freeze until solid. It will keep for up to three months. To use, place the bag in a bowl of tepid water for a few minutes to defrost, then press the slices in a colander or between sheets of paper towel to remove excess water. You can use the slices as-is or cut them into cubes, and either marinate them or toss them into a sauce. The frozen tofu will soak up the marinade or sauce much better than fresh tofu (see our Experiment).

the Experiment This test follows the absorption rate of a marinade in slices of fresh tofu versus frozen, thawed and pressed pieces. We added food colouring to a soy sauce-and-rice vinegar marinade so we could easily see the differences between our samples. We then pulled one slice from each version after 30 minutes, 60 minutes and 12 hours of soaking. We cut the slices in half to see how far our marinade had penetrated. The Result: Fresh tofu really has to soak for at least 60 minutes to absorb a minimum amount of flavour from the marinade. An overnight (or all-day) soak is definitely better. But the champion of this test was definitely the frozen and thawed tofu: It drew in most of the marinade in just a half-hour.

in living

colour

vibrant vegetarian mains

Eggplant purple, cauliflower white, sweet potato orange—the prettiest plates are often the most palatable. When faced with these bright and flavourful vegetarian dishes, even the most hard core carnivore would be hard-pressed not to dig in. Photos David de Stefano

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purple reigns

Accessories stylist caroline nault Food stylist étienne Marquis

This is the colour of royalty, and with eggplant on the menu, you’re in for a regal feast. Although it is often prepared Italian-style with tomatoes and basil, we’re taking eggplant in an Asian direction with red onions and tofu.

Sweet & Sour Tofu with Eggplant › p. 78

Twice-baked sweet potatoes with cheddar cheese and pecans › p. 80

orange crush Twice-baked potatoes are a steakhouse staple, but this bright sweet potato upgrade brings a boost of nutrition—not to mention a pop of colour—to the plate.

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white magic GLUTEN

free

Think this rich off-white couscous is made from wheat semolina? Think again. It’s actually finely chopped cauliflower, a healthier (and gluten-free) alternative. It also happens to be a sneaky way to get kids to eat their vegetables. Make this your best-kept secret.

cauliflower couscous › p. 80

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Thousand-Herb Spaghetti

going green Don’t toss out those slightly wilted herbs: They can make a beautiful pesto. Here, we used basil, cilantro, arugula, parsley and chives, but watercress, mint or dill could easily have been thrown into the mix. If it’s green, go with it.

preparation  15 minutes cooking  10 minutes servings  4

¾ lb (375 g) spaghetti ¾ cup (75 g) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese ½ cup (24 g) chopped flat-leaf parsley ¼ cup (12 g) chopped fresh basil ¼ cup (12 g) chopped fresh cilantro ¼ cup (12 g) chopped chives or (15 g) green onion ¼ cup (12 g) chopped arugula ½ lemon, grated zest only 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped cup (75 ml) olive oil Espelette pepper or crushed red pepper flakes, to taste Salt and pepper

1 In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the spaghetti al dente. Keep ½ cup (125 ml) of the cooking water aside. Drain and oil lightly. Place in a large bowl. 2 Add the Parmesan cheese, herbs and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. 3 In the same pot used to cook the pasta, sauté the garlic in the oil. Pour over the pasta. Add the cooking water. Toss well. Adjust the seasoning. 4 If desired, sprinkle with more Parmesan. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Sweet & Sour Tofu with Eggplant photo p. 73 preparation 25 minutes freezing 2 hours marinating 30 minutes cooking 25 minutes servings 4

Sweet & Sour Tofu 1 lb ¼ cup 2 tbsp 2 tbsp 2 tsp

(454 g) firm tofu, cut into ¼-inch (0.5 cm) thick slices (60 ml) mirin (30 ml) fish sauce (nuoc mam) (30 ml) lime juice (10 ml) sambal oelek or hot pepper sauce

Eggplant 3

purple Chinese eggplants, cut into ½-inch (1 cm) thick slices OR 2 to 3 Italian eggplants (depending on their size), cut into wedges ½ cup (125 ml) canola oil red onion, thinly sliced 1 Salt and pepper

Toppings ½ lb ¼ cup

(225 g) rice vermicelli, cooked (see note) (30 g) roasted cashew nuts, crushed Thai basil leaves or cilantro

Beet Carpaccio with Grapes and Walnuts preparation 20 minutes cooking 1 hour and 15 minutes servings 4 appetizers

2

medium red beets, unpeeled

¼ cup (12 g) chopped arugula 1 tbsp (15 ml) chopped fresh chives (10 ml) chopped fresh dill 2 tsp 1 cup (130 g) seedless red grapes, halved Lemon juice, to taste Olive oil, to taste ¼ cup (25 g) red or regular walnuts, toasted and crushed (see note) Salt and pepper

1 Place the beets in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 1 hour or until the beets are tender. Drain and place in cold water until completely cooled. Peel and slice thinly with a mandolin. Set aside. 2 In a bowl, toss the arugula, chives and dill. Set aside. 3 Line four plates with the sliced beets. Garnish with the grapes. Drizzle with the lemon juice and olive oil. Sprinkle with the herb mixture and nuts. Season with salt and pepper. note 

Sweet & Sour Tofu 1 In a large sealable freezer bag, place the tofu in a single layer. Place in the freezer for at least 2 hours or until the tofu is completely frozen (see note).

Available in some supermarkets, red walnuts have a reddish kernel and are somewhat sweeter in taste. They are otherwise the same as any fresh walnuts.

2 In a bowl, combine the mirin, fish sauce, lime juice and sambal oelek. 3 Allow the tofu to thaw completely before using. Press and blot with paper towels to remove excess water. Place back in the freezer bag and add half of the marinade (keep the remaining marinade for the eggplant). Marinate for 30 minutes. Eggplant 4 In a large non-stick skillet over medium heat, brown half the eggplant in about 3 tbsp (45 ml) of the oil. Repeat with the remaining eggplant and oil. Set aside. 5 In the same skillet, soften the onion. Add the reserved eggplant and the remaining marinade and cook for 1 minute. 6 Meanwhile, lightly blot the tofu with paper towels. In another non-stick skillet over medium heat, brown the tofu in 2 tbsp (30 ml) of the oil. Toppings 7 Divide the vermicelli onto four plates. Top with the tofu, onion and eggplant. Drizzle with the pan juices. Sprinkle with the cashews and garnish with basil leaves.

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notes 

To cook the rice vermicelli, bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the vermicelli. Remove from the heat and let stand for about 3 minutes or until tender. Rinse under cold water and drain. The freeze/thaw technique will reduce marinating time: If you make the recipe with fresh tofu, it will need to marinate for at least 12 hours to fully absorb the flavour, whereas this freeze/thaw tofu method takes only 30 minutes.

red all over Red walnuts are a relatively new addition to supermarket shelves. Their gorgeous, all-natural hue is achieved by grafting Persian red-skinned varieties onto classic English walnut trees. The resulting taste is similar to regular walnuts, but a bit milder. Their colour is truly spectacular, especially when paired with beets and grapes.

beet carpaccio with grapes and walnuts

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Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoes with Cheddar Cheese and Pecans photo p. 74 preparation 20 minutes cooking 1 hour servings 4

2 cups (400 g) coarse salt (see note) large sweet potatoes, scrubbed clean 4 ¼ cup (60 ml) cream cheese, at room temperature (100 g) grated yellow cheddar cheese 1 cup ¼ cup (12 ml) chopped fresh chives ¾ cup (75 g) pecans, coarsely chopped Salt and pepper

1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). 2 In a cast iron skillet or baking dish, spread the salt. Press the sweet potatoes in the salt. Bake for 45 minutes or until very tender. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes. Make a slit in the top of each sweet potato and scoop out the flesh with a spoon, keeping about ½ inch (1 cm) of flesh at the bottom. 3 In a bowl, mash the cream cheese, half the cheddar (½ cup/50 g) and the chives. Add ½ cup (50 g) of the pecans and mix thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon back into the hollowed sweet potatoes. Sprinkle with the remaining cheddar (½ cup/50 g) and pecans (¼ cup/25 g). Bake for about 15 minutes or until the cheese is golden brown. If necessary, finish under the broiler. note

Coarse salt stabilizes the potatoes while baking and helps them retain some moisture. You can also bake them without the salt. To secure the potatoes in the dish, just cut a thin slice off each bottom to flatten the base.

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Cauliflower Couscous photo p. 75 preparation 25 minutes cooking 25 minutes servings 4 to 6

1 cauliflower, cut into small florets stalks celery, diced 2 1 onion, finely chopped cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 1 tsp (5 ml) ground cumin 1 tsp (5 ml) ground coriander 2 tbsp (28 g) butter 1 green apple, unpeeled, cored and diced 1 cup (250 ml) vegetable broth ½ cup (55 g) sliced almonds, toasted ¼ cup (40 g) dried apricots, diced 2 tbsp (30 ml) lemon juice Salt and pepper

1 In a food processor, pulse the cauliflower, about onethird at a time, until it is the size of large couscous grains (1 cauliflower should yield between 5 to 6 cups of “couscous”). Set aside. 2 In a large non-stick skillet over medium heat, soften the celery, onion and garlic with the spices in the butter, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add the apple, broth, almonds and apricots. Bring to a boil. Add the cauliflower, cover and simmer for 4 to 5 minutes or until the cauliflower is al dente. Add the lemon juice. Adjust the seasoning.

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Dermatologist-developed. Clinically proven results. Paraben free.

homegrown

potatoes Accessories stylist caroline nault Food stylist Heidi bronstein

Taking root in our plates

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Sausage Shepherd's Pie › p. 96

with a little creativity, spuds have the potential to be culinary stars. Thanks to these instant-classic recipes, you’ll never look at the humble potato in quite the same way again. Photos David de Stefano

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roasted potato salad Here's a fresh new take on the classic potato salad. Yellow potatoes are wonderfully creamy, while peppery arugula and spicy sausage pack a flavourful punch. Plus, no peeling: The potatoes are oven-roasted with their skins on for extra flavour and crispiness (p. 96).

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poutine-style stuffed potatoes Poutine may have been born in rural Quebec, but it has now managed to charm the whole country. We’ve upgraded this fast-food dish by swapping the traditional fries for a baked russet potato cut in half. The insides are fluffed with a fork, doused in homemade gravy (no cans or packets here) and topped with chicken, peas and cheese curds. Comfort food to the rescue!

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Poutine-Style Stuffed Potatoes preparation 20 minutes cooking 1 hour and 15 minutes servings 6

6

unpeeled russet potatoes, scrubbed clean

Sauce ¼ cup (57 g) butter ¼ cup (35 g) unbleached all-purpose flour 2 ½ cups (625 ml) veal stock (see note) slices bacon, chopped 2 onion, chopped 1 2 cloves garlic, chopped

Toppings 2 tbsp (28 g) butter 1 ½ cups (210 g) frozen peas 1 ½ cups (255 g) cooked chicken, diced 2 ½ cups (375 g) cheese curds Salt and pepper

Potatoes 1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). 2 Poke the potatoes repeatedly with a fork and place directly on the oven rack. Bake for about 45 minutes or until tender. Sauce 3 In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the flour and stir until the mixture is golden brown. Add the veal stock and bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Add the bacon, onion and garlic. Simmer for about 15 minutes or until the sauce has thickened. Strain and keep warm. Toppings 4 In a skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the peas and chicken and warm up gently. 5 Cut the potatoes in half lengthwise and remove some of the flesh from each half. With the tip of a knife, make incisions in the flesh to allow the sauce to sink in. Place onto six individual plates or on a large serving platter. Drizzle with some sauce. Top with the pea and chicken mixture and the cheese. Cover with the remaining sauce. note

Frozen veal stock is available at most supermarkets.

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Lamb stew with roasted peppers and fingerling potatoes This rustic dish is perfect for showcasing locally harvested fingerling potatoes, a variety that naturally grows small and narrow. With its tender lamb cubes, hearty tomato-based sauce and aromatic medley of fresh parsley, chives and basil, this main course serves up bold Mediterranean-inspired flavours (p. 99).

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pulled pork gnocchi Potatoes and pork. Few combinations have stood the test of time as well as this classic duo. Here, the russet potato is transformed into fluffy Italian-style gnocchi, while the pork is inspired by Mexican carnitas and by southern-style pulled pork sandwiches, for a roundthe-world trip in every bite. This showstopping dish is also a great option for entertaining, as the gnocchi can be made ahead of time (p. 99). ricardocuisine.com

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just out of the oven

potato and celeriac skillet cake When local produce supplies start to dwindle, we can always count on root vegetables, which pair beautifully with potatoes. While carrots and turnips are always top of mind, don’t forget about unsung heroes like Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips and celeriac. Thin slices of the latter lend rich and refined flavours to this dish (p. 100). 90

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inverted on a plate and ready to eat

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Their bluepurple colour is antioxidant-rich

1 A waxy flesh ensures this variety will keep its shape when cubed or sliced

5

No peeling required: Their skin is paper-thin

2 Because their sugar hasn’t turned to starch, they’re as sweet as can be

4

High starch content and mealy texture make this variety ideal for baking

3

PICK YOUR POTATO 1 › blue 2 › fingerling 3 › russet 4 › baby 5 › yellow

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mussel and potato casserole In Eastern Canada and British Columbia, locally farmed mussels are easy to find in grocery stores. They take centre stage in this skillet recipe, alongside large chunks of bacon and halved baby potatoes. Basically, this is a heartier, more rustic take on the clear-broth versions often found on restaurant menus (p. 100).

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Roasted Pork with fall vegetables It’s Ricardo’s favourite fall-time meal, and for good reason! Earthy juniper berries, rich cream and fresh tarragon bring out the terroir flavours of this juicy cut of pork. Better still, loaded with harvest vegetables and a hearty rack of meat, this haute-looking roast is guaranteed to wow dinner party guests while proving surprisingly easy to make any day of the week.

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Roasted Pork Loin with Tarragon Sauce preparation 15 minutes cooking 55 minutes servings 4 to 6

Roasted Onions and Fingerling Potatoes cover recipe

Pork Loin 1 rack pork loin, (4 bones) about 2.2 lb (1 kg) (2.5 ml) juniper berries, ground ½ tsp 2 tbsp (28 g) butter Salt and pepper

Sauce 2 cups ½ cup 3 1 1 tsp 1 tsp 2 tsp

(500 ml) chicken broth (125 ml) 35% cream sprigs fresh tarragon shallot, finely chopped (5 ml) cornstarch (5 ml) water (10 ml) chopped fresh tarragon

preparation 25 minutes cooking 40 minutes servings 4 to 6

16 fingerling potatoes, halved lengthwise 2 tbsp (30 ml) canola oil 18 cipollini onions, peeled sprigs fresh thyme 3 Salt and pepper

1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). 2 In an ovenproof skillet, brown the potatoes in the oil. Season with salt and pepper. Add the onions, and thyme, and mix thoroughly. Roast in the oven for about 40 minutes or until vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally. 3 To serve, spread around Roasted Pork Loin with Tarragon Sauce. note

Pork Loin 1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). 2 Rub the ground juniper berries on the pork loin. Season with salt and pepper. In a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat, brown the meat in the butter. 3 Roast in the oven for about 45 minutes or until a thermometer inserted in the centre of the meat reads 137°F (58°C). Place the meat on a serving platter and cover with aluminum foil. Let rest until the thermometer reads 145°F (63°C). Sauce 4 In a small saucepan over high heat, bring the broth, cream, tarragon sprigs and shallot to a boil and reduce by half. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in the water. Add to the reduced sauce, whisking constantly until thickened. Strain. Add the chopped fresh tarragon. 5 Drizzle the meat with the sauce. Serve with the Roasted Onions and Fingerling Potatoes and the Roasted Acorn Squash (see recipes at right).

Vegetables have the same cooking time as pork roast, but it is best to cook them separately so as not to overload the pan. Otherwise, there might be too much condensation and liquid in the bottom of the pan that may prevent food from roasting.

Roasted Acorn Squash preparation 15 minutes cooking 45 minutes servings 4 to 6

2

small orange or green acorn pepper squash, seeded and cut into wedges 2 tbsp (30 ml) olive oil 1 tbsp (15 ml) chopped flat-leaf parsley Salt and pepper

1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2 On the baking sheet, toss the squash with the oil. Spread evenly. Season with salt and pepper. 3 Bake for about 45 minutes or until the squash is tender and golden brown. Remove from the oven and sprinkle with the parsley.

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Sausage Shepherd's Pie

Roasted Potato Salad

photo p. 83

photo p. 85

preparation 25 minutes cooking 1 hour and 15 minutes servings 6 to 8 freezes well

preparation 20 minutes cooking 35 minutes servings 4 to 6

Mashed Potatoes 4 cups (740 g) peeled and cubed yellow potatoes ¼ cup (57 g) butter ½ cup (125 ml) milk 1 egg, lightly beaten 2 cups (200 g) grated sharp cheddar cheese Salt and pepper

Filling 1 ½ lb 3 tbsp 2 8 oz 2 cups 2 1 cup 1 cup

Salad 6 cups 2 1 tbsp 2 tbsp 3 ½ oz 4 cups

(1.1 kg) Yukon gold potatoes, unpeeled and cut into 1 ¼-inch (3 cm) cubes cloves garlic, finely chopped (6 g) rosemary, finely chopped (30 ml) canola oil (100 g) chorizo or other dry sausage, thinly sliced (95 g) arugula

Dressing (675 g) Toulouse or mild Italian sausage meat (5 to 6 sausages) (42 g) butter onions, thinly sliced (225 g) white button mushrooms, quartered (200 g) shredded green cabbage, firmly packed cloves garlic, finely chopped (250 ml) chicken broth (135 g) frozen peas

Mashed Potatoes

3 tbsp (45 ml) cider vinegar (15 ml) canola oil 1 tbsp (10 ml) whole-grain mustard 2 tsp (5 ml) honey 1 tsp green onions, thinly sliced 2 Salt and pepper

Salad 1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.

1 In a pot of salted boiling water, cook the potatoes until very tender. Drain. Mash with the butter. Add the milk and egg and combine until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Add half of the cheese. Set aside.

2 On the baking sheet, toss the potatoes, garlic, rosemary and oil. Season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 25 minutes or until the potatoes are cooked and golden brown. Finish cooking under the broiler for about 5 minutes. Add the sausage and cook for 2 minutes. Let cool.

Filling

Dressing

2 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

3 In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients with a whisk. Season with salt and pepper. Add the warm potatoes. Toss in the arugula. Serve immediately.

3 In a non-stick skillet over high heat, brown the sausage in 2 tbsp (28 g) of the butter, breaking the meat with a wooden spoon. Spread in an 11 x 8-inch (28 x 20 cm) baking dish. Set aside. 4 In the same skillet over medium-high heat, brown the onions and mushrooms with the remaining butter. Season with salt and pepper. Add the cabbage and garlic and soften for 2 minutes. Deglaze with the broth. Add the peas, spread over the sausage meat and press lightly. 5 Spread the mashed potatoes over the vegetables. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Bake for 45 minutes or until golden brown. Let cool for 10 minutes before serving. note

Visit the cheese counter to source a sharp, local cheddar, and the butcher for artisanal sausages.

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YOU JUST FOUND THAT PLACE. The one that takes a special space in your heart. The one you will daydream about. It is filled with enchanting landscapes, comforting retreats and a myriad of ways for you to escape. Masterful chefs await to seduce your palate with heartfelt delights, while welcoming shopkeepers carefully polish the art of savouring life. You’re in the Eastern Townships, the tastiest getaway in Quebec. Visit easterntownships.org today to book your getaway.

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Fast, Fresh, Family Food delicious recipes!

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Lamb Stew with Roasted Peppers and Fingerling Potatoes photo p. 88 preparation 20 minutes cooking 1 hour and 30 minutes servings 6 freezes well

Pulled Pork Gnocchi photo p. 89 preparation 45 minutes cooking 2 hours and 30 minutes servings 6

Pulled Pork

Roasted Peppers and Fingerling Potatoes

1 ½ lb ¼ cup 2 1 2 cups 1 tbsp ¼ cup

1 ½ lb

Gnocchi

Lamb Stew 2.2 lb 3 tbsp 4 1 can

(1 kg) lamb cubes (stewing meat) (42 g) butter cloves garlic, chopped 14 oz (398 ml) diced tomatoes

(675 g) small fingerling potatoes, whole (or halved, if large) red bell peppers, seeded and cubed 2 2 tbsp (28 g) melted butter ¼ cup (12 g) chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tbsp (6 g) chopped fresh chives 2 tbsp (6 g) chopped fresh basil Salt and pepper

Lamb Stew 1 In a large skillet over medium-high heat, brown the meat in the butter. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. 2 Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat for about 1 hour and 15 minutes or until the meat becomes tender. Remove the lid for the last 15 minutes if excess liquid needs to be reduced. Stir a few times. Season with salt and pepper. Roasted Peppers and Fingerling Potatoes 3 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). 4 In a large baking dish, combine the potatoes, bell peppers and melted butter. Season with salt and pepper. Roast for about 45 minutes or until the vegetables begin to brown. Sprinkle with the fresh herbs. Spoon the lamb stew over the vegetables. Toss and serve immediately.

(675 g) boneless pork shoulder (57 g) butter large onions, thinly sliced clove garlic, finely chopped (500 ml) chicken broth (15 ml) cider vinegar (12 g) flat-leaf parsley, chopped

3 russet potatoes, scrubbed clean egg, lightly beaten 1 ¾ cup (105 g) unbleached all-purpose flour Salt and pepper

Pulled Pork 1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). 2 In a large Dutch oven or oven-safe pan over medium-high heat, brown the meat in 2 tbsp (28 g) of the butter. Season with salt and pepper. Remove and set aside. Brown the onions in the hot pan with the remaining butter. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Deglaze the pan with the broth and vinegar. Add the meat. Bring to a boil and cover. Transfer to the oven and bake for 2 hours or until the meat is fork tender. Remove from the oven. Remove and discard most of the fat from the meat, shred and combine with the warm cooking juices. Set aside. Gnocchi 3 Meanwhile, poke the potatoes in several places with the tip of a knife, and place them directly on the oven rack. Bake for 1 hour (at the same time as the meat) or until very tender. Remove from the oven. 4 Peel the warm potatoes right out of the oven and purée in a potato ricer or with a potato masher to obtain 1 ½ cups of mashed potatoes. Place in a bowl. Season with salt. 5 Add the egg and ½ cup (70 g) of the flour. Mix thoroughly by hand. Stir in the remaining flour (¼ cup/35 g) and knead the warm dough on a floured work surface until it becomes soft and smooth. Add flour, if needed.

note

You can make gnocchi a few hours before cooking them; just keep them in the refrigerator on a lightly floured baking sheet or plate.

6 Divide the dough into four pieces. Form four ¾-inch (1.5 cm) diameter rolls. Immediately, cut the warm rolls into ¾-inch (1.5 cm) pieces. Sprinkle lightly with flour. Roll the dough pieces on the tines of a fork to give them a rounded shape and a ridged pattern. Place the gnocchi on a lightly floured baking sheet. 7 In a large pot of salted boiling water, cook the gnocchi for 2 to 3 minutes or until they rise to the surface of the water. Drain and toss with the warm pork and sauce. Add the parsley. Adjust the seasoning. ricardocuisine.com

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Potato and Celeriac Skillet Cake

Mussel and Potato Casserole

photo p. 90

photo p. 93

preparation 30 minutes cooking 1 hour servings 8

preparation 20 minutes cooking 30 minutes servings 4

6 tbsp (84 g) butter large russet potatoes, peeled 6 1 medium celeriac, peeled Salt and pepper

¼ lb (115 g) bacon, cut into chunks 2 tbsp (30 ml) canola oil 3 shallots, finely chopped clove garlic, finely chopped 1 1 cup (250 ml) apple cider or white wine 3 cups (600 g) baby potatoes, halved 2.2 lb (1 kg) fresh mussels, scrubbed 6 cups (142 g) baby spinach Salt and pepper

1 With the rack in the lowest position, preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). 2 In a saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter and cook until it just begins to brown. Strain. Set the clarified butter aside (see note). 3 With a mandolin, thinly slice the potatoes: two lengthwise (oblong-shaped) and four widthwise (round-shaped). Thinly slice the celeriac. Set aside.

1 In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, brown the bacon in the oil. Season with pepper. Add the shallots and garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Deglaze with the cider.

4 Generously brush a 9-inch (23 cm) non-stick skillet with clarified butter. Arrange a first layer of round potato slices at the bottom of the skillet, overlapping them to form a rosette.

2 Add the potatoes and bring to a boil, cover and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes or until the potatoes are tender.

5 Top with all of the oblong-shaped potato slices, making sure that they overlap and exlend up the side of the skillet. 6 Form layers of round potato slices and celeriac over the bottom. Brush with a little butter and season every other layer with salt and pepper. Lightly press each layer. Fold the potato sides toward the centre. Finish with a potato rosette. Brush with the remaining butter. 7 Bake for about 1 hour or until the outside of the potato cake is golden brown and crispy. Right out of the oven, run a spatula or knife between the edge of the skillet and the pancake to slightly loosen it. Flip onto a serving plate. Serve with a roasted chicken or beef prime rib. notes

Clarified butter is devoid of all water and milk solids, with only fat remaining. It does not burn as easily as regular butter, making it ideal for cooking at higher temperatures. You can keep peeled potatoes in water, but do not soak them once they are sliced, because they will lose their starch and won’t stick together during baking. Make sure you cut potatoes very thinly; you should be able to fold the slices without breaking them.

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3 Stir in the mussels, cover and cook for 5 minutes or until the mussels have opened. Discard the unopened mussels. Stir in the spinach and let wilt for 2 minutes, covered. Adjust the seasoning.

web New to cooking mussels? Visit ricardocuisine.com for our expert advice.

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TEXT Catherine Perreault-Lessard and janna zittrer accessories stylist Sylvain Riel food stylists anne Gagné and étienne marquis

Friendsgiving

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Pumpkin Spiced Cake › p. 120

Thanksgiving tends to be all about family, but this year, Ricardo and his wife, Brigitte, are inviting a few close childhood friends to celebrate with a special, all-hands-ondeck dinner party full of good food and fun. Photos Christian Lacroix

the menu Apple Cheddar Tart Oven Roasted Sweet Potatoes Spinach, Fennel and Red Pear Salad Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Bacon Dry Cured Roasted Turkey Wild Rice, Apple and Cranberry Stove-Top Stuffing Pumpkin Spiced Cake

Apple Cheddar Tart › p. 120

Too many cooks in the kitchen? No such thing for Ricardo and Brigitte! They love to entertain guests who are ready to roll up their sleeves, so Brigitte (pictured above, left) always sets the table in advance to save time and keep the focus on the food.

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The countdown To keep your party on schedule, prep the ingredients prior to your guests’ arrival, and make the dessert ahead of time, too. The rest can be done together, with a glass of wine in hand. Friends who cook together, stay together, after all.

T-Minus 24 hours Apply the salt rub to the turkey Bake the pumpkin cake 3:30 p.m. Guests arrive 4 p.m. Assemble the hors d'oeuvre and salad 4:15 p.m. Pop the savoury tart in the oven and serve immediately with a glass of wine 4:30 p.m. Roast the turkey 5 p.m. Cook the wild rice for the stuffing 5:30 p.m. Make the Brussels sprouts 6:30 p.m. Take the turkey out of the oven (it needs to rest for about 30 minutes), place the sweet potatoes in the oven and finish the stuffing 6:45 p.m. Dress the salad 7 p.m. Dinner is served

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Ricardo's hosting tips 1. To avoid forgetting any details, Ricardo always makes a list and starts to cross items off as soon as possible. 2. Assign tasks based on your guests’ skills. Entertaining an artist friend? Table design is their domain. A wine lover? Pairings are up to them. And don’t forget: There’s always dish duty. 3. Although not necessary, warm dishes are always a nice touch. Place them in the oven, or, if space is lacking, pop them in the microwave for a few seconds. 4. Speaking of critical oven space: Always plan your menu accordingly. 5. Make sure your dishwasher is empty before guests arrive. When the time comes to clean up, anyone who wants to help can simply load the dirty dishes and glasses inside.

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Apple Cheddar Tart › p. 120

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all about apps Assume your guests will arrive hungry and plan accordingly, especially if you’re asking them to help out. To avoid overcrowding the oven when Ricardo serves several appetizers, he prefers serving one hot and the rest at room temperature or cold. Our Apple Cheddar Tart is a nice option that’s quick and easy to make. For something fresh, visit ricardocuisine.com for ideas on refrigerator-friendly bites.

Wild Rice, Apple and Cranberry Stove-Top Stuffing › p. 115

For larger gatherings, Ricardo rarely serves a first course, preferring instead to skip straight from the appetizers to the main event. On most occasions, he opts to place everything on the table and dine family style. By the same token, the salad isn’t served as a starter but right alongside the turkey.

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Spinach, Fennel and Red Pear Salad preparation servings 6

20 minutes

3 tbsp 2 tbsp 1 tbsp ½ tsp 1

(45 ml) olive oil (30 ml) rice vinegar (15 ml) lemon juice (2.5 ml) honey unpeeled red pear, cored and cut into thin wedges (142 g) baby spinach 5 oz bulb fennel, thinly sliced 1 ¼ cup (40 g) pumpkin seeds, toasted Salt and pepper

1 In a large salad bowl, combine the oil, vinegar, lemon juice and honey. Season with salt and pepper. Add the pear and toss to coat. 2 Add the spinach and fennel. Sprinkle with the pumpkin seeds and toss well. Adjust the seasoning.

The main event Ricardo treated this big bird to a dry rub, which is not only easy to prepare ahead of time but also sure to keep the meat nice and moist. To learn all about turkey prep, turn to our Test Kitchen section on page 149.

Dry Cured Roasted Turkey › p. 122

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better with bacon Forget what you think you know about these cabbage greens. Brown them in a skillet to bring out their full flavour and top with diced bacon to turn the classic side dish into a crowd-pleaser that people can’t get enough of. Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Bacon › p. 122

Perfect pairing Brigitte and Ricardo are so passionate about wine, they’ve even collaborated with a winery in South Africa to create their very own Sauvignon and shiraz. You can always count on Ricardo to choose the perfect match for a meal. His first pick for turkey is a nice bottle of bubbly, but you can also choose an oak-aged Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. Either will pair just as well.

Wild Rice, Apple and Cranberry Stove-Top Stuffing preparation 25 minutes cooking 1 hour and 15 minutes servings 6 freezes well

½ cup 2 cups ½ tsp 1 ½ cups ¼ cup 1 1 1

(100 g) wild rice (500 ml) water (2.5 ml) salt (75 g) stale bread, diced (57 g) butter onion, chopped stalk celery, finely chopped small Cortland apple, peeled, cored and diced 1 Toulouse sausage, casing removed ¼ cup (38 g) dried cranberries, chopped 2 tbsp (6 g) flat-leaf parsley, chopped

1 In a saucepan, bring the rice, water and salt to a boil. Cover and simmer over medium low heat for about 50 minutes or until the rice is tender and split open. Drain and set aside. 2 In a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat, brown the bread dices in 2 tbsp (30 ml) of the butter. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside in a bowl. 3 In the same skillet, soften the onion and celery over medium-low heat in the remaining butter (2 tbsp/30 ml) for about 10 minutes or until translucent. Add the apple and sausage. Brown over high heat, crumbling the sausage with a wooden spoon. Stir in the rice, cranberries, parsley and bread. Adjust the seasoning. note

Delicious with Dry Cured Roasted Turkey (p. 122)

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Sharing is caring! Add some gratitude to the fun by asking guests to jot down what they’re most thankful for on a piece of paper and place the lot in a bowl. Then, draw the papers one by one and have everyone guess which answer belongs to which guest.

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To keep sweet potatoes from veering into cloying territory, Ricardo tosses his wedges in some chili powder for an unexpected (but absolutely welcome) hit of spice.

On a sweet note If the weather permits, enjoy the last days of fall by taking things outdoors after dinner. Have a few cozy wool blankets ready to go. Otherwise, a pile of pillows in the living room creates a cozy environment to enjoy a slice of moist, deeply flavourful Pumpkin Spiced Cake (p. 120).

Cap things off with a mulled wine for a warm and fuzzy way to end the evening. Whether you’re celebrating the holiday with family or, like brigitte and ricardo, friends, you can never go wrong with good food and drinks in the company of the people you love.

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Pumpkin Spiced Cake photo p. 103 preparation 35 minutes cooking 30 minutes cooling 2 hours servings 8 to 10 freezes well

Cake 1 ¾ cups (245 g) unbleached all-purpose flour (5 ml) baking powder 1 tsp (5 ml) baking soda 1 tsp ½ tsp (2.5 ml) ground cinnamon ¼ tsp (1 ml) ground nutmeg Pinch ground cloves ¾ cup (170 g) unsalted butter, softened 1 ½ cups (360 g) lightly packed brown sugar eggs 3 1 ½ cups (375 ml) homemade or store-bought unsweetened pumpkin purée (see note)

Frosting 1 ¼ cup 2 cups 2 oz 1

package (8 oz/250 g) cream cheese, softened (57 g) unsalted butter, softened (260 g) icing sugar (55 g) white chocolate, melted and cooled recipe Candied Pecans (optional)

Cake 1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). 2 Butter and line two 8-inch (20 cm) springform pans with parchment paper. 3 In a bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and spices. Set aside. 4 In another bowl, cream the butter and sugar with an electric mixer. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating until smooth. Add the pumpkin purée and beat until incorporated. With a wooden spoon, add the dry ingredients. Spread the batter evenly in the prepared pans. 5 Bake for about 30 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the centre of the cakes comes out clean. Let cool for 10 minutes. Unmould and let cool completely. Frosting 6 In a bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese with the butter and icing sugar until smooth. Drizzle in the chocolate, beating constantly. If it's too soft, refrigerate for 15 minutes before frosting the cake. 7 With a serrated knife, slice off the rounded top of one cake. Spread the cut surface with a third of the frosting. Cover with the second layer and cover the cake with the remaining frosting. Garnish with Candied Pecans, if desired. note

Pumpkin purée freezes well.

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Candied Pecans preparation 5 minutes cooking 3 to 5 minutes makes 1 ½ cups (375 ml) freezes well

½ cup 1 tbsp 1 cup

(120 g) brown sugar (15 ml) water (100 g) pecan halves, lightly toasted

1 In a saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the brown sugar and water to a boil. Add the pecans and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the sugar crystallizes and coats the pecans. 2 Immediately spread the pecans on parchment paper and let cool completely. Delicious as is or as a garnish on the Pumpkin Spiced Cake.

Apple Cheddar Tart photo p. 105 preparation 15 minutes cooking 20 minutes servings 6

1 sheet 3 tbsp ½ 1 tbsp 3 ½ oz

(½ lb/225 g) frozen puff pastry, thawed (45 ml) crème fraîche (cultured cream) or mascarpone Cortland apple, unpeeled, cored and thinly sliced (15 ml) chopped chives (optional) (100 g) cheddar cheese, thinly sliced (see note)

1 With the rack in the lowest position, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 2 On a floured work surface, roll out the puff pastry into a 10-inch (25 cm) square. With a fork, prick the entire surface of the dough. Transfer the dough onto the baking sheet. 3 Spread the cream over the entire surface of the dough. Cover with the apple slices. Sprinkle with the chives and cover with the cheese slices. Bake for about 20 minutes or until the cheese is golden brown. Let cool slightly. Cut into pieces and serve as an hors d’oeuvre. note

For a nutty flavour that goes very well with apples, substitute the cheddar with Oka cheese.

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Dry Cured Roasted Turkey

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Bacon

photo p. 112

photo p. 113

preparation 30 minutes resting 72 hours cooking 2 hours servings 8

preparation 15 minutes cooking 15 minutes servings 6

5 tsp (35 g) salt (10 ml) chopped fresh thyme 2 tsp 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped turkey, about 10 lb (5 kg) (see note) 1 cup (76 g) unsalted butter 4 cups (1 litre) chicken broth 2 cups (500 ml) white vermouth, white wine or white port 2 tbsp (18 g) unbleached all-purpose flour 1 tbsp (15 ml) honey Salt and pepper

1 In a bowl, combine the salt, thyme and garlic. Set the salt mixture aside. 2 Place the turkey, breast side up, in a large glass dish. Season the inside of the turkey with 1 tbsp of the salt mixture. Sprinkle the remaining salt on the turkey breast and legs. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 days. 3 With the rack in the lowest position, preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). 4 Place the turkey in a large roasting pan on a wire rack, breast side up. Pat the turkey dry with paper towels and brush with ¼ cup (57 g) of the butter. 5 Pour 2 cups (500 ml) of the broth and the vermouth into the roasting pan. Roast the turkey for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 325°F (170°C) and continue roasting for about 1 hour and 30 minutes or until a meat thermometer inserted into the thigh without touching the bone reads 180°F (82°C). Transfer the turkey to a serving platter and let rest for about 30 minutes, without covering with foil. 6 Deglaze the roasting pan with the remaining broth, scraping up any browned bits. Skim off any fat. Set aside. 7 In a saucepan over medium-high heat, melt the remaining butter (1 tbsp/14 g). Whisk in the flour and cook until the mixture begins to brown, about 2 minutes. Whisk in the reserved cooking juices and the honey. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 5 minutes or until the sauce thickens. Season with salt and pepper. note

The dry-curing step can be done with either a fresh or frozen turkey. The frozen turkey will thaw and cure at the same time in the refrigerator.

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3 slices bacon, diced 1 tbsp (15 ml) olive oil 6 cups (720 g) Brussels sprouts, halved ¾ cup (180 ml) chicken broth (or apple juice) 1 tbsp (15 ml) whole-grain mustard Salt and pepper

1 In a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat, brown the bacon in the oil. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon. Set aside on a plate lined with paper towel. Keep the rendered bacon fat in the skillet. 2 In the same skillet, brown the Brussels sprouts in the hot fat. Season with salt and pepper. Deglaze the skillet with the broth. Whisk in the mustard and bring to a boil. Simmer over medium heat, stirring often, for about 10 minutes or until the vegetables are tender and the broth has evaporated. Adjust the seasoning. 3 Pour into a serving dish and sprinkle with the bacon. note

If desired, sprinkle with toasted chopped pecans or almonds.

Oven Roasted Sweet Potatoes preparation 15 minutes cooking 20 minutes servings 6

1 3 tbsp 1 tsp 6 cups

clove garlic, finely chopped (45 ml) olive oil (5 ml) chili powder (1 kg) sweet potatoes, scrubbed clean and cut into wedges Salt and pepper

1 With the rack in the lowest position, preheat the oven to 425°F (210°C). 2 In a large bowl, combine the garlic, oil and chili powder. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add the potatoes and toss to coat well. Spread on a baking sheet. 3 Bake for 15 minutes. Turn over the potatoes and cook for an additional 2 to 5 minutes or until tender.

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eight delicious ways to take advantage of the season’s fresh crop of apples. plus, Our no-fail pastry recipe and blue-ribbonworthy finishing touches will have them asking for seconds. Photos Christian Lacroix

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Accessories stylist Sylvain Riel Food stylist anne Gagné

the perfect, no-fail pastry This shortcrust pastry is so good that we used it for every single pie presented in this feature. And if we had included savoury options, like a meat pie or quiche? We would have used it, too! For foolproof results, the food processor is your friend. Trust us: This one’s a keeper.

basic shortcrust pastry preparation  10 minutes cooling  30 minutes makes  two 9- to 11-inch (23-28 cm) crusts

2 ¼ cups (315 g) unbleached all-purpose flour (1 ml) salt ¼ tsp ¾ cup (170 g) cold unsalted butter, diced 6 tbsp (90 ml) ice water, approximately

Handmade Technique 1 In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt. Cut the butter into the flour using a pastry blender or two knives, until it's in pea-sized pieces and the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Gradually add the water, lifting and turning the flour mixture using a spatula to prevent a portion from becoming wetter than another. Add water if needed, a spoonful at a time, just until the dough comes together when pressed between yours fingers. Divide the dough and shape into two discs. 2 Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate the dough for at least 30 minutes. 3 Roll out each disc on a floured work surface or between two sheets of parchment paper to about -inch (3-4 mm) thick. Use the dough to make one double crust pie or two 9- to 11-inch (23-28 cm) single crusts.

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pulsed into pea-sized pieces cubed chilled butter

b

c

ready!

a 5 Tips for a Flaky Pie Crust 1 › The colder the better. Use chilled butter right from the refrigerator, icy water (you can add a few ice cubes and remove them before use) and even refrigerated flour for an ultra-flaky texture. 2 › Don’t overwork the dough and use just enough water to bind the flour. This will minimize gluten formation, which is a major culprit that makes for tough pastry crusts. 3 › Drape the dough over the pie plate without stretching it. Instead, gently push it in place with your fingers. 4 › If you allow the dough to chill for at least half an hour before baking, your pie crust will be flakier and will shrink less during cooking. 5 › Dough can be kept in the refrigerator for up to three days or frozen for up to three months. Before rolling it out, let it warm to room temperature until it is supple enough to handle. As for freezing, cover the discs with plastic wrap and place them in an airtight freezer bag.

how-to

video

Food processor technique a. Mix the flour and salt in a food processor. Add the cubed butter. b. Pulse until the butter is broken down into pea-sized pieces. c. Slowly pour in the water and process until the dough just starts to come together. If needed, add more water. d. Remove the dough from the food processor and shape into two flat discs.

Learn how to line a pie plate like a pro at ricardocuisine.com

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apple and strawberry pie preparation 30 minutes cooking 1 hour servings 8 freezes well

3 3 cups 1 cup 2 tbsp 1 tbsp 1

Cortland or Royal Gala apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced (405 g) sliced fresh strawberries (or frozen) (210 g) sugar (20 g) quick-cooking tapioca (15 ml) lemon juice recipe Basic Shortcrust Pastry, rolled-out into two 11-inch (28 cm) circles (p. 128)

Egg Wash 1 1

egg yolk tbsp (15 ml) milk

1 In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the apples, strawberries, sugar, tapioca and lemon juice to a boil, stirring gently. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 5 minutes. Let cool. 2 With the rack in the lowest position, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Egg Wash 3 In a small bowl, combine the egg yolk and milk. Set aside. 4 Line a 9-inch (23 cm) pie plate with the rolled-out pastry. Fill with the apple mixture. Brush the edges of the dough with water. Cut the second pie crust into ¾-inch (2 cm) thin strips. Brush with egg wash and place on the filling, weaving them to form a lattice top (technique on page 134). Trim the lattice strips to the edge of the plate and press to seal. Crimp the edges of the pie with a fork or your fingers. Place the pie on a baking sheet. Bake for about 40 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or cold.

Trick of the Trade If you do not have the time (or patience!) to weave a lattice top, there are a variety of tools that can help you achieve professionnal-looking results in a snap. The test kitchen has tried out a lattice cutting roller–available at kitchen supply stores–with satisfying results. Here is how it works: Roll out the dough on a piece of parchment paper, then press the lattice cutting roller into the piecrust. Gently lift the lattice and cover the pie, stretching it slightly. Seal by pressing the edges with your fingers.

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the berry beauty apple and strawberry pie

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the crunchy nutty top apple crumble pie

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apple crumble pie preparation 25 minutes cooking 50 minutes servings 8 freezes well

½ cup 2 tbsp 1 cup 2 1 tsp ½

(105 g) sugar (18 g) cornstarch (250 ml) unsweetened applesauce McIntosh apples, peeled, cored and diced (5 ml) vanilla extract recipe Basic Shortcrust Pastry, rolled-out into an 11-inch (28 cm) circle (p. 128)

Crumble ¼ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup

(60 g) brown sugar (35 g) unbleached all-purpose flour (25 g) quick-cooking
rolled oats (28 g) ground almonds (57 g) unsalted butter, melted

1 With the rack in the lowest position, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). 2 In a saucepan off the heat, combine the sugar and cornstarch. Add the applesauce and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Stir in the apples and vanilla. Set aside. 
 Crumble 3 In a bowl, combine the dry ingredients. Add the butter and stir until the mixture is just moistened. 4 Line a 9-inch (23 cm) pie plate with the rolled-out pastry. Remove any excess dough. Crimp the edges as shown below. Fill with the apple mixture. Sprinkle with the crumble. Bake for about 40 minutes or until the crumble is golden brown. Let cool on a wire rack. Serve warm or cold.

Perfectly Crimped Edges Crimped or fluted edges don’t just look great, they’re functional, too: They reduce shrinking, keep the edges from burning and minimize leaks. Using a pair of clean kitchen scissors, cut the excess dough, trimming the overhang to about ¾ inch (2 cm). Fold the dough under to make it flush with the edge of the pie plate. Then, use your thumb and forefinger to pinch a small section and another finger to gently push the dough (see photo). Finish by pressing the edge with the tines of a fork.

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squash, pear and apple pie preparation 30 minutes cooking 1 hour and 15 minutes servings 8 freezes well

3 2 cups 2 1 cup 3 tbsp ½ cup ½ cup 1

Cortland apples, peeled, cored and diced (280 g) peeled and cubed butternut squash Bosc pears, peeled, cored and diced (210 g) sugar (42 g) unsalted butter (70 g) raisins (125 ml) unsweetened applesauce recipe Basic Shortcrust Pastry, rolled-out into two 11-inch (28 cm) circles (p. 128)

Egg Wash 1 1 tbsp

egg yolk (15 ml) milk

1 In a saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the apples, squash, pears, sugar and butter to a boil, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 20 minutes or until the squash is tender and the sauce is syrupy. Remove from the heat. Stir in the raisins and applesauce. Set aside. 2 With the rack in the lowest position, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Egg Wash 3 In a small bowl, combine the egg yolk and milk. Set aside. 4 Line a 9-inch (23 cm) pie plate with a pie crust. Fill with the apple mixture. Brush the edges of the dough with water. Top with the second pie crust. Cut a slit in the centre. Crimp the top and bottom crust together to seal. (For a lattice top, follow the directions below.) Brush with the egg wash. Bake for about 50 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. Let cool on a wire rack.

Lattice Top 101 Cut the top pie crust dough into six 2-inch (6 cm) wide strips and six ½-inch (1.25 cm) wide strips. Arrange six strips (alternating sizes) vertically across the pie. Fold back every other strip, stopping at the edge of the pie. Lay one new strip horizontally, and fold back the vertical strips so they overlap it. Fold back the alternate vertical strips. Lay another horizontal strip and repeat until the lattice is completed. You can also weave the lattice top over a piece of parchment paper. Refrigerate a few minutes, then carefully transfer the lattice on top of the pie. Trim the lattice strips and bottom crust to the edge of the pie plate, then press to seal together. 134

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the rustic lattice top squash, pear and apple pie ricardocuisine.com ricardocuisine.com

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the forever favourite classic apple pie › p. 144

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the decadent hybrid crème brûlée apple tart › p. 144

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the savoury-sweet combo apple and cheddar frangipane tart

apple and cheddar frangipane tart preparation 25 minutes cooking 45 minutes servings 8

½

recipe Basic Shortcrust Pastry, rolled-out into an 11-inch (28 cm) circle (p. 128) 3 Cortland apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced ½ cup (55 g) sliced almonds 2 tbsp (28 g) butter, melted 2 tbsp (26 g) sugar ¼ cup (57 g) unsalted butter, softened ½ cup (55 g) ground almonds ¼ cup (28 g) icing sugar 1 tbsp (9 g) unbleached all-purpose flour 1 egg ¼ tsp (1 ml) almond extract 1 cup (100 g) extra-sharp cheddar cheese shavings, to taste

1 With the rack in the lowest position, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). 2 Line a 9-inch (23 cm) pie plate with the rolled-out pastry. Trim and crimp the edges. Place in the freezer while preparing the filling. 3 In a bowl, combine the apples, sliced almonds, melted butter and sugar. Set aside. 4 In another bowl, combine the butter with the ground almonds, icing sugar and flour with an electric mixer. Add the egg and almond extract and beat until smooth. Spread into the crust. Top with the apple mixture. Bake for about 45 minutes or until the apples are tender. Let cool completely on a wire rack. Serve with the cheddar shavings. 138

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® /™ Kruger Products L.P. © 2014

Performance gets a sexy new look. And nothing absorbs like it.™

the single-serving tartlet thin apple tartlets › p. 144

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the upside-down tart tarte tatin

tarte tatin preparation  25 minutes cooking 1 hour servings 8

½ cup 2 tbsp 2 tbsp 6 ½

(105 g) sugar (30 ml) water (28 g) butter Cortland or Royal Gala apples, peeled, cored and quartered recipe Basic Shortcrust Pastry, rolled-out into an 11-inch (28 cm) circle

1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). 2 In a 10-inch (25 cm) cast iron skillet, bring the sugar, water and butter to a boil. Cook over high heat until the sugar is caramelized and golden brown. Add the apples and stir to coat. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Arrange the apples, core side up in the skillet. Cover the apples with the rolled-out pastry, gently folding the dough up against the inside of the skillet wall. 3 Bake for about 50 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. Let cool for 5 minutes. 4 Place a serving plate on top of the skillet and holding both the plate and the skillet firmly in place, carefully flip the tart over onto the serving plate. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream. note

If you do not have a cast iron skillet, use an ovenproof non-stick skillet.

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thin apple tartlets

Egg Wash

photo p. 140

1 
In a small bowl, combine the egg yolk and milk. Set aside.

preparation 20 minutes cooking 40 minutes servings 6 freezes well

2 1 6 tbsp 3 tbsp 6 tbsp

Cortland apples, unpeeled recipe Basic Shortcrust Pastry (p. 128) (90 ml) chestnut purée OR 6 tbsp (90 ml) pink applesauce (45 ml) milk (78 g) sugar

1 With the rack in the lowest position, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Apple Pie 2 With the rack in the lowest position, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). 3 In a large bowl, combine the brown sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon and nutmeg. Stir in the apples and butter. 4 Line a 9-inch (23 cm) pie plate with a rolled-out pastry. Fill with the apple mixture and press lightly. Brush the edges of the dough with water. Top with the second rolled-out pastry. Cut a slit in the centre to let steam escape. Trim and crimp the top and bottom crust together with your fingers to seal. Brush with the egg wash. Bake for about 55 minutes or until the filling is bubbling and the crust is golden brown. Let cool on a wire rack.

2 Core the apples and thinly slice with a mandolin. 3 On a lightly floured work surface, shape the dough into a cylinder and cut into six discs. Roll out each disc into a -inch (3 mm) thick, 5 ½-inch (14 cm) diameter circle. Place the circles on the baking sheet. Cover the centre of each pastry with 1 tbsp (15 ml) of the chestnut purée or applesauce, to about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of the border. Cover the purée with overlapping apple slices, to create a rosette. Fold the edges of the dough inward toward the filling. 4 Brush the edges of the tartlets with the milk. Sprinkle with the sugar. Bake for about 35 minutes or until the tartlets are golden brown. The flesh of the Cortland apple doesn’t brown when baked and becomes slightly pink.

classic apple pie photo p. 136 preparation 25 minutes cooking 55 minutes servings 8 freezes well

2 tbsp 1

(120 g) brown sugar (26 g) cornstarch (2.5 ml) ground cinnamon (1 ml) ground nutmeg apples, peeled, cored and each cut into 16 wedges (McIntosh, Cortland and Empire, or to taste) (28 g) unsalted butter, melted recipe Basic Shortcrust Pastry, rolled-out into two 11-inch (28 cm) circles (p. 128)

Egg Wash 1 1 tbsp

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photo p. 137 preparation 25 minutes cooking 55 minutes servings 8

½ 4 ¼ cup

recipe Basic Shortcrust Pastry, rolled-out into an 11-inch (28 cm) circle (p. 128) Cortland apples, peeled and each cut into 8 wedges (52 g) sugar

Crème Brûlée

note

½ cup 3 tbsp ½ tsp ¼ tsp 6

crème brûlée apple tart

egg yolk (15 ml) milk

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6 cup 1 ¼ cups ½ tsp 2 tbsp

egg yolks (70 g) sugar (310 ml) 35% cream (2.5 ml) vanilla extract (14 g) icing sugar, to caramelize

1 With the rack in the lowest position, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). 2 Line a 10-inch (25 cm) quiche plate with the rolled-out pastry. Trim and crimp the edges. Place the apple wedges in the crust to form a rosette, overlapping them slightly. Sprinkle with the sugar. Bake for 40 minutes. Remove from the oven. Crème Brûlée 3 Meanwhile, in a bowl, combine the egg yolks and sugar with a whisk. Add the cream and vanilla. Pour this mixture over the warm apple tart and continue baking for 15 minutes. 4 Sprinkle the tart with the icing sugar and caramelize quickly, using a culinary torch. Let cool and refrigerate until completely chilled.

the ULTIMATE… Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies

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Nothing beats that first bite of a gooey, straight-from-the-oven chocolate chip cookie. Here are our tips for the perfect batch: chewy on the inside and crisp on the outside, every time. The key ingredients The irresistible, chewy texture of

these cookies is credited to three ingredients: An extra egg yolk for tenderness, a high brown- to white-sugar ratio for added moisture and plenty of melted butter. The cool-down Let the dough cool and firm up for at least one hour (and up to 24 hours) in the refrigerator. Cold dough spreads less during baking, yielding plump, crack-free cookies with a rich, caramelized flavour. The flavour enhancers Salt in a sweet recipe? Salt

(although optional) actually enhances chocolate, vanilla and butter wonderfully. If you’re using salted or semi-salted butter, omit the extra pinch. The addition of baking soda, which promotes browning and caramelization, boosts the flavours and gives the cookies their golden colour. The chocolate We chose milk chocolate because we like

it best. Do the same and follow your palate, as long as you use a high-quality product like Lindt or Callebaut. For extra contrast, you can also mix milk and dark chocolate in equal parts or to your taste: It looks–and tastes–great.

Photographer Christian Lacroix Accessories stylist Sylvain riel Food stylist anne gagné

The baking Prepare two baking sheets, but use only one at

a time and in the middle of the oven for even baking (see note). Avoid dropping dough on a hot sheet, which will cause it to spread and always line with parchment paper for easy removal. For light, golden cookies, choose a pale or shiny sheet and for darker, plump cookies, go with a dark or matte one. The baking time Keep an eye on the cookies, as cooking may

vary slightly from one oven and one batch to the next. Even one extra minute of overbaking can take your cookies from chewy to dry. The middle of the cookies should be very soft and they might even look undercooked. But trust us, after a few minutes of cooling, they’ll be just right. The storage Keep cookies in an airtight container.

chewy chocolate chip cookies preparation 15 minutes cooling 1 hour cooking 8 minutes makes 16 cookies freezes well

1 ½ cups (210 g) unbleached all-purpose flour (2.5 ml) baking soda ½ tsp Pinch of salt ¾ cup (170 g) unsalted butter, melted 1 cup (150 g) brown sugar 2 tbsp (26 g) sugar 1 egg egg yolk 1 (200 g) milk or dark chocolate, 7 oz coarsely chopped

1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line two or three baking sheets with parchment paper. 2 In a bowl, combine the flour, baking soda and salt. Set aside. 3 In another bowl, combine the butter, brown sugar and sugar with a wooden spoon. Add the eggs and stir until smooth. Stir in the dry ingredients and the chocolate. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. 4 Shape the cookies with a 3 tbspcapacity ice cream scoop or spoon. Place five to six balls of dough on each sheet. Bake for 8 to 9 minutes or until lightly browned all around. They should still be very soft in the centre. Let cool completely on the baking sheet.

To preserve the chewy texture, add a slice of apple or a piece of bread to the container. note

Caution! Never bake more than one sheet at a time, even if you plan on rotating them halfway through the cooking time: Overcrowding the oven leads to uneven baking.

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test kitchen Full food disclosure from our team of cooking experts Gear Guide: know your slow cooker

go

Our Kitchen Director Kareen’s 3-step guide to getting started with this small appliance. Yes, slow cookers are making a comeback!

1 Buy wisely

Invest in a cooker that is programmable and switches to warm automatically once the cooking time has elapsed. Skip superfluous features like compartments and double doors. For best results with our recipes, choose an oval 6-quart (5.6-litre) model.

(and stay)

green

To maintain the brilliant colour of your greens, cut down on cooking time. The reason is simple: Heat damages chlorophyll. Whether you’re boiling, steaming or sautéing your vegetables, 5 to 7 minutes does the trick. Blanching or boiling? A quick ice bath stops the cooking process, preserving colour, crunch and vitamins.

Knockout Gnocchi

2 Get acquainted

Similar to a barbecue, power levels vary from one unit to the next. To gauge your slow cooker, try this test: Fill it threequarters full with water, cover and warm on low for 4 hours. The water temperature should rise to between 195°F and 204°F (90°C and 95°C). If yours reads above those temperatures, your machine is on the high side and conversely, if it reads lower, it’s a little cooler. Adjust cooking times accordingly.

3 Infuse flavour

There’s a misconception that slow-cooked food lacks flavour. We found the opposite to be true, especially when fresh ingredients like vegetables, fruits or herbs are added at the very end. Want to become a  slow-cooking pro? Need more recipes? Pick up a copy of Ricardo Slow Cooker Favourites: From Lasagna to Crème Brûlée ($21.94).

easy as pie Your freezer makes an unlikely but super-helpful ally when making pie dough by hand, without a food processor. Turns out that chilling the ingredients for just 15 minutes prior to starting makes it easier to achieve a nice, flaky crust.

Sure, you could use a fork to make gnocchi, but why make it needlessly complicated? Lisa, our resident expert on all things Italian, swears by her gnocchi board and roller: It’s easy to use and has a grooved surface that imparts pasta with the perfect indentations for adhering sauce. After a quick poach, try grilling gnocchi for maximum flavour and texture (approximately $6, amazon.ca or at fine kitchenware stores).

Beet the Clock

The best time to peel beets is when they’re still warm: The skin comes right off with just the touch of a finger. ricardocuisine.com

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Test kitchen cont.

turkey tips for Thanksgiving

Two ways to brine

Choosing the right roasting pan To determine whether pans have an impact on cooking times, we put three to the test. In each, we placed a cook-from-frozen turkey (equal weights) on a grill and cooked uncovered in a 325°F (165°C) oven until the internal temperature in the thigh reads 180°F (82°C). Here are the (surprising) results.

Dark enamelled steel roasting pan

01/

Cooking time: 5 hours, 10 minutes  Dark roasting pans absorb and emit radiant energy better than their lighter counterparts. The turkey receives more heat and thus, cooks faster. Note that this type of roasting pan is the standard used by most manufacturers in their cooking tests.

02/

Cooking time: 5 hours, 40 minutes Despite the thickness of this three-ply stainlesssteel model, it doesn’t transmit heat any faster. In fact, the opposite is true: The oven’s heat bounces off the reflective finish and the turkey takes more time to cook, especially if the sides are high.

Stainlesssteel roasting pan

Disposable aluminum roasting pan

Wet

03/

Cooking time: 6 hours, 45 minutes

This technique involves soaking the turkey in a water-and salt-based brine. Ideally, both are placed in a plastic bin, bucket or small cooler in the fridge (or outside if temps are between 0°C and 4°C).

While great in a pinch, these cheap convenience-store buys also reflect a good part of the oven’s heat away from the bird. The cooking time is much longer—something to keep in mind when calculating the cooking time.

Turkey Roasting Times

dry

Minimum roasting times for unbrined whole turkeys at 325°F (165°C)

Weight

Stuffed

Unstuffed

3.5-4.5 kg (8-10 lb)

3 ¼-3 ½ hours

2 ¾-3 hours

4.5-5.5 kg (10-12 lb)

3 ½-3 ¾ hours

3-3 ¼ hours

5.5-7 kg (12-16 lb)

3 ¾-4 hours

3 ¼-3 ½ hours

7-10 kg (16-22 lb)

4-4 ½ hours

3 ½-4 hours

Salt is rubbed directly on the skin of a fresh or frozen turkey. In the case of the latter, remember to rinse off any frost before drying it. Then, it is placed in a plastic bag or closed container. At first, the salt draws out the moisture, but it is eventually reabsorbed with some of the salt.

Brine 101: Remember to… that bird Ò AWatch brined turkey tends to cook more Ò quickly, so have a thermometer handy. It’s done when the thigh’s inner temperature reaches around 180°F (82°C).

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Brine first, stuff second Never brine a stuffed turkey. Instead, stuff it just before placing it in the oven.

Ò

Skip the salt Pan drippings of brined turkey make great gravy—just remember not to add any salt.

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Illustrator jacques laplante Photographer david de stefano Photographer cupcakes sophie carrière Food stylist nataly simard

ricardo

for kids

3 spooky recipes Creepy cupcakes

h a ll o w e e n

fright  night!

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r iddle me t his

What d o birds give ou What do you g T weets. t on Ha et when you lloween cross a snowm ? an with a vam pire? Frostbite. ecue? on go to the barb Why did the skelet . To get a spare rib

ummy answer Why didn’t the m all tied up. the phone? He was

Why don’t y ou right throug eat ghosts? They’ll go h you.

What do you call a witch at A sand-w the beac itch. h?

he? Why did the mummy get a headac Because he was goblin his candy!

Pumpkin Tales The first jack-o’-lanterns were made from really big turnips, not pumpkins. Why? The tradition of Halloween started in Europe, and there were no pumpkins there. It was only after North America was discovered that pumpkins replaced the turnips. Either way, it was believed that placing them on the front stoop would spook ghosts and other diabolical creatures of the night.

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wi t c hs’

br o oms

(pretzels with cheese) preparation makes 24

6 24

20 minutes

sticks string cheese long pretzel sticks

1 On a work surface, cut each cheese stick into four equal pieces. 2 Fray one end of each cheese piece to create the broom effect. Insert the pretzel sticks into the non-frayed end of the cheese pieces.

dr ie d - u p

ol d apple s

(oven dried apples) preparation 20 minutes cooking 2 hours makes 2 cups (500 ml)

1 3 tbsp

ask the

parents

Cortland apple, whole and unpeeled (23 g) icing sugar

1 With the rack in the middle position, preheat the oven to 200°F (100°C). Line two baking sheets with parchment paper (see note). 2 Ask your parents to cut the apple into very thin slices, using a mandolin. Place them on the baking sheets. Using a sieve, dust the apple slices with the icing sugar. 3 Place the baking sheets in the oven and let the apple slices dry for 30 minutes. Turn over the apple slices and dry them for an additional 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes. To determine whether they are dry enough, take an apple slice out of the oven and let it cool for 2 minutes on the counter. It should be crispy. If not, let the slices dry a little longer. note 

For this recipe, it is very important that you use parchment paper because a silicone mat prevents the apples from drying properly.

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(Green Chocolate Milk) preparation 20 minutes cooking 5 minutes cooling 6 hours makes 3 cups (750 ml)

3 cups 5 ½ oz 8 3

(750 ml) milk (150 g) white chocolate, coarsely chopped drops green liquid food colouring drops yellow liquid food colouring

1 In a saucepan, bring 1 cup (250 ml) of the milk to a boil. Add the white chocolate, reduce the heat and simmer, stirring often, until the chocolate is completely melted. Remove from the heat, add the remaining milk and mix thoroughly. Pour the chocolate milk into a bowl. Refrigerate for 6 hours or until completely chilled.

’ t oad oa d s ddrro ol

It’s gooey, it’s green, it’s totally gross looking! Give your friends the creeps by making them a Toad Slime Smoothie. Will they be brave enough to try it? Psst: It’s actually white chocolate milk, with a few drops of green food colouring.

2 Skim any fat from the surface of the milk. Strain the milk through a sieve over a bowl. Add the food colouring. Pour into a pitcher to serve.

y p e e r c 2 cupcake

1 yi ke s! sp ider s!

2

To make the body, place a single black candy in the middle of your cupcake, on top of the frosting. For the legs, cut 6 pieces of black licorice and place 3 on each side of the candy. Remember: The legs have to be long enough to touch the plate to look like a real creepy-crawly.

ide as

Scatter colourful, differently shaped jujubes on the chocolate frosting. To make them look like garbage, add the finishing touch: a plastic rodent on top. Gross!

e g a b r a g e th du m p

MENU PLANNER

Eat your veggies

Three-course meals that are sure to impress

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Hosting the in-laws

Beer and cheddar cheese onion soup

The ultimate chewy Chocolate chip cookies

+ 111 Spinach, Fennel and Red Pear Salad

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The Ultimate Cheesecake

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recipe index Appetizers and Salads Apple Cheddar Tart

p. 120

Beet Carpaccio with Grapes and Walnuts

p. 78

Spinach, Fennel and Red Pear Salad

p. 111

Slow Cooker Braised Beef with Anchovies (Provençal Broufado)

p. 54

Sukhaseum Family Larb

p. 62

Sweet & Sour Tofu with Eggplant

p. 78

Thousand-Herb Spaghetti

p. 77

Veal Kefta Sandwiches

p. 52

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Vegetables and Side Dishes

Desserts

Cauliflower Couscous

p. 80

Cranberry Chutney

p. 28

Apple and Cheddar Frangipane Tart

p. 138

Oven Roasted Sweet Potatoes

p. 122

Apple and Strawberry Pie

p. 130

Subscription Invoices and Renewal Notices › It’s possible

Potato and Celeriac Skillet Cake

p. 100

Apple Crumble Pie

p. 133

Roasted Acorn Squash

p. 95

Basic Shortcrust Pastry

p. 128

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Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Bacon

p. 122

Roasted Onions and Fingerling Potatoes

p. 95

Roasted Potato Salad

p. 96

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Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoes with p. 80 Cheddar Cheese and Pecans

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Asian Style Sheet Pan Chicken

Berry and Pistachio Muffins

p. 54

Braised Beef with Anchovy Pasta p. 54 Dry Cured Roasted Turkey

p. 122

Eggplant Parmigiana

p. 56

Giving a Gift › A subscription to

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Ricardo magazine makes a great gift! And you enjoy extra savings if you give more than one gift. To order gift subscriptions, simply go to ricardocuisine.com/gift

Green Salad with Kefta and Lemon Vinaigrette

p. 52

Lamb Stew with Roasted Peppers and Fingerling Potatoes

p. 99

Leftover Chicken Fried Rice

p. 52

Mussel and Potato Casserole

p. 100

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Pan-Seared Tilapia and Sautéed Vegetables

p. 56

Poutine-Style Stuffed Potatoes

p. 87

Pulled Pork Gnocchi

p. 99

Roasted Pork Loin with Tarragon Sauce

p. 95

Sausage Shepherd’s Pie

p. 96

Candied Pecans

p. 59 p. 120

Chewy Chocolate Chip Cookies

p. 147

Classic Apple Pie

p. 144

Crème Brûlée Apple Tart

p. 144

Pumpkin Spiced Cake

p. 120

Squash, Pear and Apple Pie

p. 134

Tarte Tatin

p. 142

Thin Apple Tartlets

p. 144

Ricardo For Kids Dried-Up Old Apples (Oven Dried Apples)

p. 156

Toad’s Drool (Green Chocolate Milk)

p. 157

Witchs’ Brooms (Pretzels with Cheese)

p. 155

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last call by corey mintz

Having people into your home for the first time can cause even the most polished host some degree of apprehension. This advice will help you pull it all off with panache.

In most cases, you shouldn’t seek to impress your guests; their comfort should be the priority. But when big relationships are on the line, the impact you make is going to have a long footprint. With this in mind, you may need our help navigating that all-important first time—the first of many, we hope. Opt for frugality over luxury Try not to buy a good impression. Yes, serving extravagant food— caviar, champagne—is an old-world way to signify the importance of the guest, but it’s ostentatious as best, bribery at worst. Unless you are impressed by people who spend money to impress people, don’t be that guy. If your boss is coming to dinner, she’s someone you don’t want to convince of your material wealth. If you can afford to serve oysters and racks of lamb, why do they need to give you a raise? Better to display some humility with a roast. If anything, a show of effort—the

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layering of lasagna, the patience of paella—counts much more than a show of spending. Serve family style Plating dishes, arranging the slice of terrine next to the tiny pile of pickles next to the squiggle of gastrique, is pleasing and often I serve many courses this way. But when you’re seeking to create a bond between people, family style is the way to go. When guests reach for a chicken wing on a platter or pass a bowl of couscous, they physically connect with each other and this makes them feel closer. It’s called family style for a reason. Go with what you know Don’t take chances with the menu. Food doesn’t have to be fancy, but it does have to be good. Stick to A-squad recipes you know like the back of your hand.

Limit shop talk Talking about work excludes people who don’t work with you. And when you’re making new friends, you want to be more than just your job. Instead, try to learn more about your guests; find out what they do with their time, what their passions are. The last thing your friends’ spouses want to hear is office gossip. Get the husbands and wives talking and you’re halfway there. Be cool Resist the urge to put on a show for people. Be a version of yourself who has plenty of good food and wine, but be yourself. And don’t worry if things go wrong; cool people are nice but nice people are pretty cool. Would you rather eat Beef Wellington with Martha Stewart and her fancy napkin holders or have pizza with The Fonz on the floor of his apartment above the garage?

Be clean Normally, I’d say you only have to clean the common spaces: living room, dining room and bathroom. But you never know if these people will peek in your bedroom, so tidy it if you’d like to create the perception that you’re an organized person.

Corey Mintz hosts dinner parties and writes about them in his weekly Toronto Star column, “Fed.” He is the author of How to Host a Dinner Party (House of Anansi Press).

Illustrator Caroline Nault

When a dinner party hinges on making an important first impression, I panic—and I host dinner parties for a living. What if they don’t like me or my taste in food? I pushed off entertaining my brother’s new in-laws for six months.

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*Selling price is $34,990 on a new 2015 Acura TLX (Model UB1F3FJ). Price of model shown, a new 2015 Acura TLX V6 Elite (Model UB2F7FKN) is $45,290. Prices exclude $1,995 freight and PDI, fees, license, insurance, registration, and taxes (including GST/HST/QST). Some terms/conditions apply. Model shown for illustration purposes only. Offer is subject to change or cancellation without notice. Dealer may sell/lease for less. Dealer order/trade may be necessary. While quantities last. Visit acura.ca or your Acura dealer for details. © 2014 Acura, a division of Honda Canada Inc.

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