The Art of Mixing Drink

THE ART of MIXING DRINKS HELPFUL HINTS FOR T H E HOSTESS

THE LEGEND OF LIQUEURS, WINES AND SPIRITS

The Legend of

Liqueurs, Wines and Spirits

What to

Serve

When to Serve Ноw to Serve it

DELUXE FOURTH EDITION

REILLY & LEE COMPANY Publishers 325 W. Huron Street Chicago, Illinois

DEDICATED To those who can drink, Yet continue to think; And pleasures deserved glean from each, May their pleasures be many. T h e i r sorrows not any; Life's happiness always in reach. — G . A. C .

Printed in U. S. A . Copyright 1935 and 1936 by GINRUM ALPHA COMPANY Hastings, Nebraska

PREFACE "There is hardly anything in this world that some m e n cannot m a k e a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey."—Ruskin.

The above quotation from Ruskin is espec­ ially applicable to Liqueurs, Wines and Spirits and the uninitiated who considers price only, and purchases the cheaper product as a sub­ stitute, does so at his own cost and delivers himself as "lawful p r e y " to those who "make a little worse and sell a little cheaper." The best in Liqueurs, Spirits and Wines can only be attained by careful, laborious and lengthy processes in their manufacture. To lessen the care, length of time required, or the grade of the ingredients used, can have but one result, a cheaper product in every sense of the word "Cheap." The Author, after careful study and exhaus­ tive inquiry, advises, unreservedly, to beware of cheap imitations and concoctions and when purchasing your liquors think more about qual­ ity and less about quantity in return for your money if you have a sincere desire for j o y and pleasure in your cups. F o r my part, I prefer to have, for myself and the enjoyment of my friends, one bottle of a good grade of liquor than to have ten bottles of an inferior grade for the same price that are likely to need an apology. It has been my desire and purpose in this book to present the essential facts with respect to Cordials, Liqueurs, Spirits and Wines and their use and service in the homes of America. So much has been said about the formality of serving them that it has all but obscured the more important necessity of always having them in the home ready to serve when the es­ tablished customs o f hospitality and good fel­ lowship require them. [ 1 ]

INTRODUCTION This is a tale of age and yet of youth. A g e that never g r o w s old. Y o u t h that has lived through the countless ages and yet is virile and young. It tells of their loves, of their dreams, of the sanctity o f home, of the g l o r y of the battle fields and of the incredible purity and riches which often belonged to all of these. F r o m the days o f N o a h ; from the days of the feast of Belshazzer; f r o m the days of the wedding feast in Cana o f Galilee; on down past the days of Omar Khayyam, that peerless devotee of the God Bacchus ; through the g a y ballroom at Waterloo to the present era; the story here told in history and recipe, comes to you with its variations to assist you in lighten­ ing the burdens of life and in dispelling the clouds o f care so that y o u may look through the raindrops of adversity to the rainbow of hope and j o y whose end should rest at your very feet. The recipes for mixed drinks include many that b e c a m e famous in days long past by rea­ son of their service at such exclusive and cele­ brated bars as Delmonico's; H a r r y ' s ; the old W a l d o r f ; the old Knickerbocker ; the old A b ­ sinthe Bar ; Santina's; the Silver Dollar and many others o f their kind f r o m Boston to San Francisco. With a hope, then, that this little book may assist you in concocting drinks that are pleas­ ant, invigorating, healthful and refreshing, for the every day o f life or the social entertain­ ment o f your friends, the author, aided by famous connoisseurs, world renowned chefs and many a Jupiter O. M. or presiding deity of the recherche bars of the past, who have generously assisted in making this b o o k authen­ tic, offers it to y o u so that by its aid you may "Give strong drink unto him that is about to perish, and wine unto t h o s e that b e of h e a v y hearts. L e t him drink, and f o r g e t his poverty and r e m e m ­ ber his misery no m o r e . " — P r o v e r b s .

THE AUTHOR. [ 2 ]

A LEGEND OF LIQUEURS, SPIRITS A N D W I N E S AND

PAST A N D PRESENT

METHODS

OF SERVING T H E M Then to this flowing bowl did I adjourn, M y lip the secret well of life to learn ; And lip to lip it m u r m u r e d " W h i l e you live, Drink !—for once dead you never shall return." — O m a r Khayyam.

In the middle ages in England a number of "mixed drinks" and liqueurs became very pop­ ular. Honey and spices were mixed with wine, the proportions depending upon the taste of the producer. Mead became most popular and no festival or tournament was complete without it. Both the peasant and the knight knew its delightful flavor and potency. Both served it to show their hospitality and friendship. When the processes of distillation became generally, known throughout Europe in the lat­ ter years o f the Middle A g e s and the Renais­ sance, a new series o f alcoholic beverages de­ veloped. It was not until the 14th and 15th centuries, however, that Europe began distill­ ing fermented grain ( b e e r ) and wine and con­ verting it into what the Gaelic peoples called "Usquebaugh" and the French called "Eau de V i e " , meaning " W a t e r of L i f e . "

Absinthe Absinthe is perhaps the most discussed and least understood liqueur in the world. It is a green alcoholic liquor containing oils of wormwood, anise and other aromatics and was used principally in France. True absinthe is much more intoxicating than ordinary liquors, and [ 3 ]

produces nervous derangement with protract­ ed use. However, the absinthe procurable in the United States does not have these charac­ teristics and yet has most of the excellent flav­ oring which the genuine product imparts to cocktails and frappes. Absinthe was first used same centuries ago by French troops in Algeria as a remedy f o r fever. The curative properties of the liqueur and its palatability soon w o n their fav­ or and many soldiers carried the herb back to Fiance. W h e n their stock of Algerian herbs was exhausted, they found a native herb of the Absinthe family which soon gained preference. A t first, as it was produced and used by the prominent families o f France, it was a desir­ able beverage but in time a product was man­ ufactured cheap in quality and high in potency and proof. Certain of the lower classes im­ bibed too freely of this cheap concoction and in time the government had to take control. B y 1912, Belgium, Switzerland, Holland, Brazil and the United States had banned the sale of absinthe. A t present our government pro­ hibits the sale of genuine absinthe o r any pro­ duct so labeled but permits the sale of "imita­ tions" which do not contain w o r m w o o d oil.

Advocaat This is a perfect emulsion of Cognac and Egg that has been prepared in Holland for more than three hundred years. It is similar to our egg-nog, but has a distinctive flavor all its own.

Almendrado Almendrado is another delightful liqueur from Mexico, having a Bitter Almond flavor.

Anisette Anisette is a sweet white liqueur made chief­ ly in the south of France, and flavored with [ 4]

Anise seeds with a licorice taste used as an after dinner drink.

Apricot

It is usually

Liqueur

A p r i c o t Liqueur or Apricot Brandy has the full rich flavor of apricots and is used as a straight drink and f o r cocktails.

Aquavit (Swedish) Aquavit is a special liquor made in the same manner as Brannvin, but it corresponds more closely to some of the American apertiff cock­ tails than it does to Brannvin. Swedish Punsch is another favorite and is known all over the world. It is sweet and cordial-like, golden in color, and is usually served ice cold with cof­ fee. Both Brannvin and Aquavit are excel­ lent bases for cocktails and other mixed drinks.

Arrack Most of the arrack imported into this coun­ try is distilled from rice, and comes from Batavia. It is but little used in America, except to flavor punch ; the taste of it is very agree­ able in this mixture. It is much used in some parts of India, where it is distilled from toddy, the j u i c e of the cocoanut tree. An imitation of arrack punch, is made by adding to a bowl of punch a f e w grains of benzoin, commonly called flowers o f Benjamin. Arrack improves very much with age.

Benedictine During the 16th century, the greatest de­ velopment of the " c o r d i a l " took place and in the year 1510, Dom Bernardo Vincilli, a French monk at the Benedictine monastery in Fecamp, Normandy, discovered the process of the man­ ufacture of Benedictine. It rapidly gained in [ 5 ]

favor as an after dinner cordial and as a medi­ cinal beverage. During the French revolution in 1793, the monastery was destroyed and the manufacture of Benedictine was discontin­ ued. A f e w years later, the secret formula was obtained by a chemist and wine, merchant, Alexander Le Grand. He established the pres­ ent distillery which is built upon the original grounds belonging to the Benedictine monks at Fecamp. The initials D. O. M. appearing on the Bene­ dictine bottle stand for the ecclesiastical or Latin phrase—Deo Optimo Maximo, meaning "to God, most good, most great." Today, in Europe, at the end of the meal or during the evening, a glass of Benedictine is very popular. B e f o r e dinner the famous Benedictine cocktail is much in vogue.*

Brannvin Scandinavian liquors are called "Brannvin" since there is no w o r d in the language corres­ ponding to our term "whisky." They are made from a potato mash spirit and are flavored with various herbs and roots. They are excel­ lent as appetizers and are so used in their na­ tive countries.

Bitters Cocktail bitters are indespensable in flavor­ ing cocktails and are made from various roots, herbs and seeds.

Blackberry Liqueur Distilled from blackberries and other in­ gredients, blackberry liqueur may be served straight or mixed with other liquors in cock­ tails or rickeys. *See Benedictine cocktail, page 52. [ 6 ]

Chartreuse Chartreuse, usually made in green and yel­ low but also in white, was originally produced at La Grande Chartreuse, the old Carthusian monastery near Grenoble, France. The secret formula used in making the liqueur was per­ fected in 1797 by Father G e r o m e Maubec, an apothecary. During the first part of the 20th century, the Carthusian fathers, because of difficulties with the F r e n c h government over laws regulating exclusive rights, were f o r c e d to leave the country, finally settling at Terrangona, Spain. Green Chartreuse, consid­ ered by many experts to be *he world's finest cordial is said to contain more than 230 sep­ arate ingredients and Yellow Chartreuse more than 120. Chartreuse and Benedictine are similar in many ways and like Benedictine, Chartreuse is primarily an after dinner cordial and should be served in one ounce cordial or liqueur glasses at room temperature.

Cointreau A famous orange liquor o f France.

Cognac It is essential to understand the difference between " C o g n a c " and " B r a n d y . " Brandy is a general term, loosely applied to different kinds of g r a p e spirit and other distillations. Cognac is a variety of Brandy as " S c o t c h " is a variety o f whisky. Cognac is distilled in pot stills from wine made f r o m grapes grown in the Cognac district of France. This district gets its name from the ancient town of Cognac which is situated on the river Charente, some sixty miles north of the city o f Bordeaux." No spirit distilled from wine grown outside this district is legally entitled t o the name " C o g n a c . " [ 7 ]

There is yet another grape spirit distilled from wine. It is called Armagnac, the name of an ancient province of France which lies a little south of the Cognac district. It is an ex­ cellent brandy and the products of several years are n o w for sale in this country. The cognac district is divided into several areas according to the general characteristics of the soil and wines produced. The central area is called Grande Champagne. It produces the finest Cognac of the entire district. Petit Champagne is next in quality, then comes Fins Bois and Bon Bois and finally Bois Ordinaires. The stars on the cognac bottles are without special significance. A three star Cognac may be anywhere from three to nine years old. Since Cognac improves in the casks, an older Cognac is therefore preferable. A number of distillers in the Cognac district have for generations maintained the highest standards of quality, others have been zealous while a third category is committed to a purely commercial policy of making Cognac of low cost regardless of quality. It is therefore o b ­ vious that the buyer in American markets must depend greatly upon the brand name or the in­ tegrity of the house from which he purchases it. Apart from its universally recognized med­ icinal use, Cognac is the ideal after-dinner liqueur. It forms the ideal consummation of a g o o d dinner at which fine wines have been served. Cognac, as a tall drink, is the "Brandy-and- " soda" of the hale and hearty Englishman, his favorite at the club while relaxing for an hour over the evening paper, or to take o f f the chill after a round of golf on a cold day. And noth­ ing equals brandy-and-soda as a pick-me-up the morning after. [ 8]

Cordials Cordials may be generally defined as any of an infinite variety o f heavy spirits, usually sweetened, flavored with various aromatic fruits, herbs and spices. They are best served with the coffee after dinner.

Cordial Medoc One'of the f e w cordials with a red wine base. A delightful cocktail called the Duke of Bur­ gundy is made with cordial medoc as one of the ingredients.*

Creme De Cacao This is a very popular liqueur and is made by special process from cocao beans, vanilla beans, and usually Java c o f f e e . It forms the basic ingredient for the famous Alexander Cocktail.

Creme De Cassis This is a rich and delicious liqueur made from black currants. It has an alcoholic con­ tent varying between sixteen and thirty-five proof.

Creme D e Menthe This is a popular after dinner liqueur and is a distillation of mint leaves and other ingred­ ients, it may be had in Green or White. The mint leaves are usually imported from Wales.

Creme De Rose This is a rich and full liqueur and has the characteristic flavor of the rose. It is mainly used with other ingredients. *See page 55. [ 9 ]

Creme D e Vanille This liqueur has a vanilla flavor derived, in its process of manufacture, f r o m the vanilla bean.

Creme D e Violet Creme de Violette or Creme Yvette as it is sometimes known, has a purplish color because it has f o r a base, extract of violets. It may be used both as a straight drink and for flavoring cocktails.

Curacao Red Curacao which is usually vended in tall stone jars is a distillation o f Curacao Orange peels and comes f r o m the West Indies and Hol­ land. It is a delectable after dinner liqueur and is used extensively in cocktails.

Drambuie A famous old liqueur which has been made in Scotland for nearly two hundred years. It has a base of old Scotch whiskey to which has been added honey and other ingredients. It is a true cordial, the only one produced in the British Isles and the only one in the world with a whiskey base. Its flavor, with a smoky tang reminiscent of Scotch peat fires, is pleasantly unforgetable.

Flora Alpina and Flora Delle Alpi Flora Alpina is a very spectacular liqueur of Italy. It is vended in tall slender bottles con­ taining a twig on which sugar has been crystal­ lized. Flora Delle Alpi is another Italian pro­ duct, similar to Flora Alpina but without the twig.

Gin The discovery of gin is attributed to a Pro­ fessor Sylvius o f Leyden, Holland, who used [ 10 ]

the flavor of Juniper berries in masking the unpleasant taste and aroma o f newly made spirits. Like brandy, gin was first sold in apothecary shops as a medicinal preparation. The dis­ tillers of England soon followed the Hollanders with three types of gin : Old T o m , a sweetened p r o d u c t ; London Dry, unsweetened, and Ply­ mouth, which is delicately flavored. Because o f the l o w manufacturing cost, gin has b e c o m e one of the most popular alcoholic beverages in the world. Besides imported Juniper berries, minor flavoring ingredients such as corriander seeds, angelic root, and oth­ er herbs are used.. Neutral grain spirits (al­ c o h o l ) , produced in modern scientifically con­ trolled stills, are used by A m e r i c a n producers as the base f o r quality gins.

Goldwasser A cordial made by distilling spirit with a number of aromatics and mixing with it gold leaf in minute particles, about two sheets to the bottle. These particles o f pure gold re­ main suspended in the liquid which is used as a base f o r the famous old time ladies' drink " T h e Golden Slipper." This cordial is also known as "Eau de V i e de Dantzig."

Grenadine True Grenadine is made f r o m the pure juice of ripened pomegranates. It is a bright red in color and is usually non-alcoholic. It is used frequently in the flavoring of cocktails..

Kaymagui This is a soft, seductive liqueur from Mex­ ico, with an enticing c o f f e e flavor.

Kirschwasser A sweet white liqueur made chiefly in south­ ern Germany and Switzerland by distilling the [ 11 ]

fermented juice o f the small black cherry. It has a bitter almond flavor derived from the crushed stones. Used as an after dinner cord­ ial and in flavoring various fruit desserts.

Kummel A liqueur flavored with caraway seeds, anise, etc. It has a decidedly strong caraway seed flavor and is usually used as a straight drink. It was formerly made extensively at Riga, a city in Russia, but is now made in the U. S. f r o m imported caraway seeds, etc.

Liqueurs The term liqueur, in general, is applied to all perfumed or flavored potable spirits that have been sweetened by the addition of sugar. It is also used for certain wines and unsweet­ ened spirits o f a very superior quality or es­ pecially remarkable f o r their particular bou­ quet, such as Tokay o r exceptionally fine old brandy or whisky. The basis o f all "liqueurs" proper, consists of ( 1 ) relatively strong alcohol or spirit, which must be as neutral and pure as possible ; ( 2 ) sugar o r syrup ; and ( 3 ) flavoring. There are three important methods o f manufacturing liqueurs. The method b y which the highest types are prepared is the "distillation" or "al­ coholate" process, which consists o f macerating various aromatics such as the bark o f plants, roots, leaves, seeds, etc., with strong spirit and putting the infusion through a process of dis­ tillation. The flavored water and spirit which is run o f f by the distillation process is termed the " a l c o h o l a t e " and to this is added the syrup o r sugar and frequently coloring matter such as vegetable extracts o r burnt sugar and some times a further quantity of flavoring matter in the form o f essential oils or clear spirituous vegetable extracts. A n o t h e r method of man[ 12 ]

ufacturing liqueurs is known as the " e s s e n c e " process. It is usually employed in the making of the cheaper and inferior class of g o o d s ; the process resolving itself into the addition of various essential oils, either natural o r arti­ ficially prepared, and of spirituous extracts to strong spirit, filtering and adding sacchar­ ine matter to the clear filtrate. The other method employed in the manufacture of li­ queurs is known as the "infusion" process, in which alcohol and sugar are added to various fruit juices. This class of liqueurs are fre­ quently called "cordials." It has been sug­ gested that " c o r d i a l s " are those articles of home manufacture, and that liqueurs are neces­ sarily of foreign origin, but it is at least doubt­ ful that this is correct. The French, who excel in the preparation of liqueurs, grade their pro­ ducts, according to their sweetness and their alcoholic content, into cremes, huiles or baumes, which have a thick oily consistency ; and eaux, extraits or elixirs, which are less sweetened and relatively limpid. Liqueurs are also classed, according to their commercial quality and composition as ordinaires, demifines, fines and sur-fines. Many liqueurs, con­ taining only a single flavoring ingredient, or having a prevailing flavor of a particular substance, are named after that particular substance, f o r instance, creme de rose, anisette, kummel, creme de menthe, etc. Many of the well-known liqueurs are compounded of many and numerous aromatic principles and the exact nature and quantities of the flavoring agents used in their preparation are kept strictly secret. A m o n g the substances fre­ quently used as flavoring agents are aniseed, angelica seed and root, corriander, fennel, worm-wood, gentian, sassafras, amber, hyssop, mint, thyme, citron, lemon peel, orange peel, cinnamon, peppermint, cloves, iris, caraway, tea, c o f f e e , etc. In alcoholic strength, liqueurs, range from near 80 per cent of alcohol by v o l [ 13 ]

ume in some kinds of absinthe, to 27 per cent in anisette. The liqueur industry in France numbers more than 25,000 factories many of which are small but nevertheless France ex­ ports more than 600,000 gallons annually.

Maraschino A sweet liqueur made from Dalmatian or marasca cherries. It is distilled from the fer­ mented j u i c e and receives its flavor from the broken kernels. It is white in color and is us­ ually vended in tall straw covered bottles. It is generally used as an after dinner cordial and a flavoring f o r cocktails.

Mescal, Pulque, Tepache,

Tequila

These are favorite beverages o f the Mexicans and o f the inhabitants o f Central A m e r i c a and parts of South A m e r i c a . Pulque is made of the j u i c e of various species o f the A g a v e ( com­ monly known as the century plant) which is collected by cutting out the flowering stem from the midst o f the leaves in the beginning of its growth, and scooping a hole f o r the juice. F r o m this cavity large quantities o f j u i c e are removed daily f o r months, (this j u i c e some­ times flows f o r a year and a h a l f ) . The juice is an agreeable drink when fresh, but is more generally used after fermentation, when it has a v e r y pleasant taste, but a putrid smell, dis­ gusting to those unaccustomed to it. Pulque, when mixed with water and sugar and allowed to ferment f o r a period of time varying from a f e w hours to 4 or 5 days, forms a beverage called Tepache. Tequila is a spirit distilled from the fermented j u i c e or Tepache.

Orgeat Syrup This delicious syrup is made from the juice of crushed almonds. Formerly a decoction of barley make up part of the ingredients. It is [ 14 ]

used as a flavoring in the most tempting o f beverages and edibles.

Peach Liqueur Is a full bodied and quite sweet liqueur made from peaches and is used both as a straight drink and in mixing cocktails.

Prunelle A great favorite in France. It is made from sloes prunes and is usually served plain as an after dinner drink.

Rock and Rye This old fashioned favorite is a blend o f lemon, horehound, pineapple j u i c e , rock candy, rye whisky and other ingredients. It is excel­ lent f o r colds, having a soothing quality for a sore throat.

Rum Rum is one of the oldest and most widely known of alcoholic liquors. With it, the hardy pioneers fortified their flagging spirits and themselves against the rigors o f privation, cold and sickness. It was the favorite drink of the sea-roving baccaneers, and Yankee merchant­ men with their towering Clippers carried it to all the ports of the seven seas. It is made f r o m pure cane molasses, ferment­ ed and distilled so as to produce certain char­ acteristic and beneficial qualities and flavors. Jamaica Rum is produced on the island of Jamaica, and is generally considered to be the finest of all rums. Demerara Rum is made in British Guiana. It is usually cured by allowing fruits to soak in the distilled rum for about six months. New England Rum o r Medford Rum is dis[ 15 ]

tilled in the New England States. It is made from molasses brought from Cuba and other West Indies Islands. French " R H U M " comes from Guadeloupe, and is obtained by the distillation of sugar cane juice; If it is labeled " T a q e a " it is made from molasses. Guadeloupe " R h u m " is probably at least one of the finest rums produced any where in the world. Bacardi Rum is peculiar to the Island of Cuba. The name "Bacardi" is a brand name. Its exact making is a secret, but it is well es­ tablished that it is a distillation of a mixture of molasses and sugar cane juices. There are also other "Bacardi T y p e " rums from Cuba, and some of them deserve high credit and praise.

Sloe Gin This popular drink is made from sloe berries, juniper berries and other fruits. It is a pop­ ular summer drink in rickeys and fizzes.

Strega A special type Italy.

of aromatic

liqueur from

Triple Sec Triple Sec or White Curacoa is a white li­ queur distilled from orange peel. It is used principally as an after dinner cordial.

Vermouth—The Base For America's Cocktails Vermouth, essentially a " m i x e d drink" in itself, has become America's favorite base in mixing cocktails. It is made principally in France and Italy, the French being considered dryer than the Italian varieties. French V e r ­ mouth is made from white wines g r o w n in the Herault district in the south of France. Herbs [ 16 ]

and other aromatic ingredients are used in its preparation. There are f e w alcoholic bever­ ages which compare with it as a tonic and ap­ petite stimulator. It is usually bottled at 16 to 20 per cent alcohol by volume. Italian Ver­ mouth is produced at Turin from a sweet Mar­ sala wine. Herbs and aromatic roots are also used in its preparation.

Vodka Vodka, Vodki or W o d k y , the national spirit beverage of the old Russia. It was originally made almost entirely from rye, the use of barley malt to the extent of 15 to 20 per cent ef­ fected saccarification, but n o w potatoes and maize make up the stable raw materials f o r its manufacture, and, as a rule, green rye malt is now used in place of the barley. Distillation is effected by means of live steam in a double still of the "patent" type. A s manufactured Vodka contains from 90 to 96 per cent alcohol, and is diluted later for the retail trade to from 40 to 60 per cent. Its sale with less than 40 per cent of alcohol is illegal.

Wischnofka A fine old Russian liqueur made from cher­ ries (usually wild cherries).

Zubrovka This is a famous old Russian apertif and consists of Vodka flavored with buffalo grass.

Whiskies The distilling of whisky in Europe probably began in the British Isles. Today, Scotch and Irish whiskies, and American and Canadian whiskies represent the two main groups of a beverage famous the world over. There is abundant evidence that the Scotch [ 17 ]

Highlanders were industriously making whisky as early as the fourteenth century. A t this time spirits were used principally for medicin­ al purposes and w e r e distilled by monks, sur­ geons or " B a r b o u r a " until early in the six­ teenth century when domestic distillation be­ came common. Scotch whisky owes its excellence and char­ acteristic flavor to four factors : the moss-wat­ er with which the mash is mixed, the barley malt which makes the mash, the peat fire over which the sprouting barley is dried, and the ageing in "sherry casks." Briefly the Scotch process is as follows : barley is moistened and kept-in a warm tempera­ ture until the grains begin to sprout. This ger­ minating barley is then dried over a slow burn­ ing peat fire, the smoke o f which has a peculiar­ ly pungent odor. W h e n dry, the malt is ground and mixed with water to form the mash. Yeast is added to the mash and natural fermentation sets in. The fermented liquid, known colloqui­ ally as " b e e r " , is then sent to the stills. The distilled liquor is run o f f into casks that have been soaked inside with wine. Sherry wine is usually used f o r this purpose, hence the term "sherry cask." The casks are not charred as is the custom in A m e r i c a . The wine and the wood alone give color to the whisky. There are thousands of whiskies now on the American market. N o one person can try all brands, and certainly no one would care to have many of them analyzed. N o w , then, how can one find which is the best? Here are a few helpful questions to ask of any whisky you may think o f b u y i n g : H o w old is it? H o w is it dis­ tilled? What is its reputation? Is the maker reliable ? It would seem that the question of age is of great importance as every national government has regulations on the subject. In this coun­ try the minimum time in which a whisky is [ 18 ]

bottled in bond by the government is f o u r years, and it must be 100 proof. The state of Kentucky has long been famous for its "sour mash" whiskies which are heavybodied and full-flavored. Bourbon whisky, which originated in Bourbon Cdunty, Ken­ tucky, must contain at least 51 per cent corn grain, the balance is usually rye and. barley grain. The average composition is: corn 65 per cent, rye 20 per cent, malt 15 per cent. Rye whiskies are those in which the per­ centage of rye is increased and the percentage of corn decreased. Maryland and Pennsyl­ vania produce the greater part o f rye in the United States. Canada is famed f o r its fine rye whiskies many of which may n o w be o b ­ tained in the United States markets. The mash f r o m which Canadian whiskies are distilled must, according to Canadian laws, con­ tain not less than 50 per cent small grains such as wheat, barley or r y e . This mash with its l o w corn content cannot possibly produce a true Kentucky B o u r b o n . Canadian straight whisk­ ies are sweet mash rather than the American sour mash type. W h e n a bottle o f whiskey is labeled "a blend" it means that the content is a mixture of true whiskey o f varying ages, alcohol, water and coloring matter. This mixture is called rectifying, or cutting. A true blended whiskey is not rectified, but is made up of straight whiskies of different ages. This blending of straight whiskies is done to secure various flavors and make it more palatable. B e f o r e prohibition, true blended whiskey made up approximately 80 per cent o f all whiskey consumed. Contrary to public opinion, blended whisk­ ies if the blending is honest, and if it is skill­ fully done, are usually of better flavor and quite as pure as "straight" whiskies. A n hon[ 19 ] .

est blend whiskey is a blend of several kinds of "runs" of straight whiskies—with the possible addition of distilled water and harmless color­ ing matter (usually c a r a m e l ) . Water is used merely to reduce an over proof whiskey to the desired proof. Whiskey, is defined by the United States Pharmacopoeia to be : " A n alcoholic liquid ob­ tained by the distillation of the mash of fer­ mented grain (usually of mixtures of corn, wheat and r y e ) , and at least two years old. It must have an alcoholic content or strength of 44 to 50 per cent by weight, or 50 to 58 per cent by v o l u m e . " The term whisky or whiskey is derived from the Gaelic, usquebaugh, meaning water of life.

Wine "Drink no longer water, but use a little wine for thy stomach's sake, and thine often infirm­ ities."— 1 T i m o t h y 5 : 2 8 .

Liqueurs and whiskies have old and colorful histories but the history of wines, more than any other alcoholic beverage, constitutes one of the most fascinating studies known to man. A complete and thorough study of an in­ dustry that has grown from the pot of Noah and the seven firkins of Christ to the present production o f millions of gallons annually, would no doubt consume a lifetime. One can only attempt in this little volume, to give the essential facts, sufficient to satisfy the needs of the occasional drinker or those who desire to make it their part time hobby. The profes­ sional in search of scientific data needs must search b e y o n d . "The grape that can with logic absolute The two and seventy jarring sects confute ; The sovereign alchemist that in a trice . Life's leaden metal into gold t r a n s m u t e . " — O m a r Khayyam.

Biblical history teaches us that vineyards [20 ]

were cultivated long prior to the time of Christ and that Noah was at least one o f the first men to make and use wine. The Greek and Roman Empires became world centers of vitticulture and products o f the ancient Greek and Roman vineyards were praised by the poets of the classical period. From the writings of Bede, an Anglo-Saxon historian who lived from 672 to 735 A . D., we learn that the cultivation o f the vine in France and England began in the fifth and sixth cen­ turies. In France and England the develop­ ment of the vine was due rather to the early Christian missionaries than the accomplish­ ments of the Roman soldiery. Wherever the early converts to Christianity went they took the grape vine with them. Wine had become essential in the celebraition of many of the early church rites.

Chilean Wines Chilean wines are produced from grapes, the vines o f which have been transplanted from Europe. The climate of Chile corresponds to that enjoyed by California, both being about the same distance from the Equator. Conse­ quently the wines are very much like those produced in our own western state. Chilean wines are n o w being imported into this coun­ try and are becoming quite popular. Both white and red wines, usually bearing French names, may be had.

Wines of Europe The study o f European wines requires a life­ time of earnest devotion. In a booklet of this nature the subject can only be touched briefly. The collection of wines may become- both a love and a hobby. To those interested in lay­ ing down a cellar we o f f e r the following fun­ damental information. The wines of France, apart from the pro[ 21 ]

ducts of the Champagne area, fall roughly into two g r o u p s — B o r d e a u x and Burgundy. Bor­ deaux wines may again be divided into two groups—Clarets and Whites. The clarets are dry, delicate, and a clear red in color. The whites are both dry and naturally sweet, and golden, somewhat lemon-like in color.

Wines of France Champagne Although many fine so-called "Cham­ pagnes" are produced in A m e r i c a and other countries, genuine Champagne is made only from grapes g r o w n in a small district in France, situated in what used to be called the Province of Champagne. Vines o f great breed and the chalky soil of the Campagne district, together with the unremitting toil and devotion of the peasant growers to their vines produce a wine of rare quality. Though these fine wines were made in Cham­ pagne since the First Century, Champagne as we know it, the sparkling wine, is a compara­ tively recent discovery. It is a blend of wines from many vineyards and from three or more distinct sections of the Champagne district. The process of making a fine Champagne is a long and exacting one, necessitating care over a period o f five or six years. A f t e r the first fermentation has ceased, the wines from the various sections are blended in huge vats and left in quiesence until the early spring. In April the wine is bottled. A t this time a small quantity of grape sugar is added to stimulate the second fermentation (which takes place in the b o t t l e ) . This second fermentation pro­ ceeds very slowly and the wine must lie in the cellars at least f o u r years. A t the end of this time the deposit which has resulted from this fermentation must be re­ moved. To make this possible the bottles are [ 22 ]

placed neck down in special racks and by daily agitation (a quick quarter turn) f o r sixty days the deposit is finally worked down onto the cork. The wine in the neck of the bottle is then frozen and the cork and the deposit is re­ moved without loss of gas. The varying degrees o f sweetness are indi­ cated by the marking on the bottle. " B r u t " Champagne is the dryest type. " E x t r a D r y " , " S e c " , "Demi S e c " and " D o u x " are the names given to the types varying from the dryest (Brut) to the slightly sweet. Champagnes are marketed as vintage or non-vintage wines. Generally, vintage Champagnes are of better quality than non-vintage ones if of a g o o d year and if the wine is the product of a firstline house. Champagne does not continue to improve with great age. High grade Champagnes are not marketed younger than six or eight years and succeeding years will not add much to their quality. Ordinarily Champagne will be at its best when between seven and fifteen years old. Champagne bottles should be stored with the bottles lying on their sides so that the cork be kept w e t and the air space out of contact with the cork. If the corks are permitted to dry out the wine will b e c o m e flat. Champagne is the most versatile of wines, It is a perfect accompaniment of any f o o d and may make its appearance at any point in even the most elaborate menu, and continue to the end. It is one of the f e w wines that can be served throughout the entire meal, the only exception being to omit it with the dessert where the dessert is sweet. It should, of course, be served chilled. If served with other wines, the only caution to observe is not to preceed Champagne with a sweet wine. The stimulating action o f Champagne is rapid but transitory and its effect on the human [ 23 ]

body none but beneficial. The best proof of this is the fact that Champagne is everywhere prescribed f o r convalescents and those suffer­ ing from anaemia. Champagne is used also to make what many consider the finest of all cocktails. F o r this purpose it is not necessary to use a Champagne of first quality, for the Champagne cocktail must contain a dash of bitters and this would overwhelm, in any case, the delicate bouquet and aroma o f fine Champgane. Champagne must be treated with the respect due a superb but extremely delicate wine. In storage it should be held at even temperatures the year around, preferably between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit. To insure this even temp­ erature summer and winter, some of the re­ nowned champagne cellars in Rheims are built in old Roman quarries, 100 to 120 feet below ground. The largest of these cellars contain more than eleven miles of galleries. Champagne always should be served direct­ ly from the bottle to the glass. To decant first impairs champagne's distinctive effervescent quality The connoisseur is recognized by the way he serves his wines. His champagne will be cooled some time in advance, by placing the bottle in an ice pail. (But ice should never be put into any wine glass.) The serving glass should be thin and of deli­ cate design, preferably with a hollow stem. A slight mist on such a glass indicates that the temperature of the nectar is right. A t meals, champagne only rarely is served before the entree. It is not advisable to place more champagne on ice at one time than likely will be served in an hour or two. Removed from ice and allowed to warm again, the delicate vintages lose much in both flavor and strength. [ 24 ]

When champagne has been well iced it should be handled with care. Cold renders the bottles more brittle. The best results in chilling champagnes and sparkling Burgundies will be obtained by avoid­ ing direct contact between the bottle and caked ice. Segments of the bottle which touch the ice block tend to contract more rapidly than other portions, thus increasing the danger of cracking. Ample chipped ice in a pail of water provides the most efficient cooling device. Submerging the bottle in the ice water equal­ izes the contraction of the glass throughout. Connoisseurs contend that champagne less than six year old is unfit for human consump­ tion. This, perhaps, is carrying a beautiful thought rather far. Nevertheless, it is a wellestablished scientific fact that every year up to four adds immeasurably to champagne flav­ ors. Beyond a rich or rare brandy liqueur with the coffee, no other wines may succeed cham­ pagne on the menue. That is h o w it came to be called "the nectar of the festive g o d s . "

Wines of Bordeaux Although. Bordeaux is known as a seaport, it is not located on the sea. It is situated close to sixty miles from the mouth of the Gironde River. The vineyard district begins almost at the sea coast and runs parallel to the Gi­ ronde for about one hundred and fifty miles. The entire section may be. divided into six areas as follows: The Medoc—This is the principle wine grow­ ing section and the source of practically all the great " G r a n d " growth clarets. Graves—Here are produced many fine wines both red and white. " G r a v e s " are usually dry­ er than "Sauternes." Sauternes—The source of the great first and [ 25 ]

second growth sauterne wines as well as many other fine white wines. Barsac is slightly sweet and is usually of a higher alcoholic con­ tent. Cotes—The banks of the river and hillsides. This section also includes the well known area called St. Emilion. Entre-Deux-Mers (between two seas)—This section is between the Garonne and the Dordogne rivers, which run into the Gironde. Palus—The area close to the water's edge where the cheaper wines are produced. The Bordeaux region produces a greater var­ iety of wines than any other area its size in the world. The Medoc stands foremost as the pro­ ducer of the greatest number of Grand wines. The official classification made in 1855 still holds, and of the sixty-one Grand Crus the Medoc possesses sixty. Some of these are Chateau Margaux, Lafite, Latour, Leoville Barton, Mouton Rothschild, Pontet Canet, Kirwan, Gruaud Larose, Beychevelle, and Cantenac. Graves produce the famous Grand Cru Chat­ eau Haut Brion, the only one outside of the Medoc. The St. Emilion section produces the well known Chateau Ausone, Belair, and Checal Blanc. The Sauternes section gives us the world famous Chateau Y q u e m , as well as 20 other classed growths.

Wines of Burgundy Burgundy wines are produced in the region called the Province o f La Bourgogne. The city of Dijon is the principal center of the re­ gion. The vineyards extend southward along the banks and hillsides of the river Saone. The principal districts are : Cote d'Or (slope of g o l d ) — T h e finest Bur­ gundies come mainly f r o m this section, which [ 26 ]

is further divided into two sections, the Cote de Nuits and the Cote de Beaune. Y o n n e — F r o m here c o m e the white Bur­ gundies known as Chablis. Cote de M a c o n — T h i s section produces many fine but modest red wines. Beaujolais — Moulin-a-Vent is produced here as well as a variety of less important wines. Most famous o f the big, red Burgundies are Romanee, Romanee-Conti, Richebourg, Clos Vougeot, Chambertin, Close de Tart, Les Grand Echezeaux, Romanee Saint-Vivant, La Tache, Saint-George, Le Corton, Clos du Roi, Le Musigny, Les Lambrays, and Clos de Beze. The famous white Burgundies are Montrachet, La Chevalier Montrachet, Meursault Perrieres, Chablis La Moutonne, Chablis Valmur, Meursault Les Charmes, Batard Mont­ rachet, and Chablis Les Grenouilles. There are no "Chateau-bottled" Burgundy wines as there are Bordeaux wines, and the purchaser must depend solely upon the repu­ tation and reliability of the merchant who does the bottling in his own cellar. Red Burgundies are somewhat heavier than clarets, but are equally as delicate in fragrance and flavor. They are perfect when served with roasts, mut­ ton, and the heavier kinds of game meats. The whites are renownwed for their harmony of flavor when consumed with fish, oysters, and other types o f sea foods.

German Wines Moselle and Rhine Wines German wines are for the most part white and are famous for their dry, extremely deli­ cate flavor and almost flower-like bouquet. These characteristics are even more pro­ nounced in the Moselles. The vineyards of the [ 27 ]

Moselle region are found on both sides of the Moselle River, from the city of Coblenz to the French border. Of the more than 100 dis­ tricts in the valley the best known are Piesport, Trarbach, Erden, Reiler, Berncastel, Uerzig, Brauneberg, Josephshof, and Zeltingen. From some of these come the famous Berncastler Doctor, Erdner, Treppschen, Zeltinger, Schlossberg, and others as well known. Rhine wines are produced in three principal sections along the river Rhine—the Rheingau, Rheinhessen, and Rheinpfalz. The foremost Rhine wines are Schloss Johannisberger. and Syeinberger, both from the Rheingau. The wines of Marcabrunn, Rudesheim, Rauenthal, and Hattenheim from, this section are among the finest produced in all of Germany. The Rheingesse is well known for its Niersteiner, Oppenheimer, Bodenheimer and Nackenheimer wines, which are full bodied and rich in alcohol. Liebfraumilch is a common name for many Hessian wines which resemble the original Liebfraumilch. From the Rheinpfalz, or Palatinate as it is frequently called, come the wines known as Durkheimer, Wachenheimer, Forster, and Deidesheimer. These are soft, full-bodied wines with about the same alcohol content as those of the Rheinhesse.

Tokays of Hungary Hungary has been famed for many years as the homeland of Tokaj, or Tokay as it is known in the United States. The name is derived f r o m the town of Tokaj, from which the wines are shipped. Tokay is a blend made from over-ripe grapes, called Trockenbeeren (dried berries), and a species of Muscat Grapes. The Trockenbeeren contain a great deal o f sugar. Ausbruch T o ­ kay is very sweet whereas the Szamorodni is [ 28 ]

considerably dryer and a g o o d appetizer. T o ­ kay wine is much prized for its medicinal qual­ ities. It is never fortified with brandy or wine spirits like other varieties of sweet wine.

Wines of Italy Italy is the second largest producer of wine, after France, in all the world. Red wines pre­ dominate over whites and take their names pri­ marily from the names o f the vines. Almost all of Italy is blessed with suitable wine pro­ ducing conditions. The best known of the Italian wines are the Chiantis which come from the hills o f Radda. Gaiole, Castellina, Greve and Castelnuoveo. Other fine varieties are produced on the hills near Florence and Pisa. Piedmont, whose wines are of historic antiquity, is famed f o r its Barolo, Barbera, Freisa, and Grignolino. Barolo—called the king of wines to accom­ pany roasted meats—is a great red table wine, soft and velvety, with a slight perfume o f vio­ let. Barbera is a magnificent full bodied red table wine, and a true classic product of Pied­ mont. Grignolino, a vivid dark red table wine, has a pleasing perfume and flavor. There are many other fine Italian dry red wines which are too numerous to mention here. A m o n g s t the whites, apart from the white Chiantis, which are very fine, are Cortese from Piedmont, Orvieto from Umbria, Val d' Oro from Lombardy, Soave from Venetia, Albano, Frascati, and Montefiascone from the section around Rome, and Capri from the Island of Capri. The Island of Elba is also well known for its white Moscato and other white wines. Asti Spumati is perhaps the most appreciat­ ed natural Italian sparkling wine. It has for a long time been the favorite o f American visit­ ors to Italy. Its purity, delicate sweetness, and unique aroma make it a nectar of exhil­ arating qualities. [ 29 ]

Fortified wines, which are excellent, are produced chiefly from Muscatel grapes. Mar­ sala from Sicily is a dark brown wine which was first produced in the year 1773 by W o o d h o u s e . It is high in alcoholic content and is known throughout the world as one of the finest Ital­ ian fortified wines ever produced. Other fav­ orite wines are the Moscato di Siracuse and the Moscato de Salento.

Wines of Portugal Portuguese Port Port wine, " T h e W i n e of Philosophy," has f o r many years been considered the finest af­ ter-dinner wine produced in the world. Gen­ uine Port is produced in the Douro River val­ ley in Portugal, and is shipped from Oporto. The wine is fortified by an addition of grape brandy during the process of fermentation. Its alcoholic content is usually from 18 to 20 per cent by volume. Vintage Port is not a blend of wines from different years, as are Ruby and Tawny Ports, but the wine o f a single year, one in which a g o o d vintage has been produced. It will im­ prove in the bottle and b e c o m e ready for con­ sumption after about twenty years. Tawny P o r t is permitted to age in the w o o d until it is ready f o r shipment and consumption. R u b y Port is a blend of younger wines and has a sweeter taste but is not as soft and mel­ low as a Tawny. Port is one of the best "body-builders'- o f all wines. It is the wine for convalescents— and an excellent tonic for persons exhausted or with a debilitating illness. The purchaser o f Port wine must be very careful. The name of the shipper is the only real guarantee of the genuineness of the type of Port he is buying. [ 30 ]

Wines of Spain Old Spanish Sherries Sherry and Port are so often mentioned in the same breath that many people think the two wines are similar. The fact is that they are quite unlike, not only in character, but also in the manner of making them. Both are " f o r t i f i e d " wines, but with Sherry the grape spirit ( b r a n d y ) is added after com­ plete natural fermentation, whereas with Port, brandy is added during fermentation. This stops fermentation and leaves the wine sweet. Pure Sherry is a dry wine. Some Sherries on the market are sweet, but the sweetness is o b ­ tained by adding other wines of a higher sugar content. Sherry is made in the southwest corner of Spain in the Province o f Cadiz. A small dis­ trict, o f which the old town o f Jerez de la Frontera is the center, lying some sixty miles north of Gibralter, produces all the genuine Sherry in the world. A n y other Sherries, although they may be quite fine and palatable, are imi­ tations. True Sherry acquires its particular charac­ teristics through ageing in wood. A fairly y o u n g Sherry is known as Fino, Vino De Pasto or Palido ( P a l e ) . These types are always dry and light in color. The Amontillado is a fine dry Sherry with a nut-like flavor- yet light in color. The Olo­ roso is a wine of magnificent flavor with a pronounced bouquet, rich mahogany color, y e t a dry finish. The Amontillados and Olorosos are the finest Sherries Spain produces. Sherries called Old Golden, A m o r o s o , Brown Sherry, etc., are usually o f the sweeter variety. Just as Finos and Amontillados are ideal appe­ tizers and Olorosos are unniversally accepted as the proper accompaniment o f soups, the [ 31 ]

sweeter varieties, may well replace the dinner Port.

after

Moderately sweet Sherry is the ideal wine of hospitality to the casual caller. Served with cakes or cookies, it takes the place of tea and has the advantage of being always ready. A n d as all g o o d cooks know, Sherry is indispensable in the preparation of many of their finest dish­ es. Sherry, as we know it, is a blend of the wines of many different years and from many vineyards. The blending is a delicate matter, re­ quiring much skill and experience. The foundation of old blending Sherries is called the Solera. It contains the oldest and finest of the blending wines. Unlike any other wine, Sherry developes strength as it grows old. Other wines become more mellow and acquire bouquet and aroma but they lose some of their alcohol as they add Sherry developes all of years to their life. these desirable attributes and its alcohol con­ tent increases. One o f the favorite mixed drinks in which wine is used is the Sherry Flip.

Madeira, Malaga and Muscatel Other well known fortified sweet wines pro­ duced on the Spanish Peninsula are Malaga and Moscatel. Greece, Italy, Hungary, Port­ ugal, and France also produce Moscatei wine. Spanish Moscatel is made near Malaga, and is a very fine after-dinner wine. Malaga is made principally in the province of Malaga in Southern Spain. In taste it is very similar to Moscatel. Madeira wine, also highly prized as a dessert wine, is produced in the Madeira Islands, be­ longing to Portugal, off the coast of Africa. It is soft and mellow, characteristics which are [ 32 ]

acquired only by skillful blending of many fine, aged Madeiras. Madeira was a great favorite o f our N e w England forefathers. Madeira is peculiar in that agitation and heat tend to improve its quality, consequently the remark, the proper place to store Madeira is in the attic.

Wines of the United States Wine need not be considered an expensive luxury, f o r whilst imported wines are high in price due to tariff and transportation costs, w e produce splendid wines in America at prices sufficiently l o w to permit them to be used daily b y the average American family. W e should remember that the vintage wines in Europe are only a tiny percentage of the wine produced and are usually bottled f o r ex­ port. It is also significant that the natives o f European wine producing districts, who are habitual wine drinkers, refuse to be influenced by dates and labels on the bottles. Americans today are more and more ap­ preciating the fact that with our varied cli­ mate and soil we are able to produce nearly every variety of wine known in Europe, besides several varieties which Europe cannot supply. In quality and bouquet many are comparable with the finest wines in the world, and are t o ­ day available at low prices. The history of vitticulture in the United States dates back to the 17th century. The first vineyard-planting took place in 1619. Na­ tive wines still make up the greatest source of wine in the Eastern sections of the United States. The European varieties o f grapes have found the state of California more to their lik­ ing and have flourished there. Vineyards in California were first cultivated by the Span­ iards. The native vines throughout North Carolina, [ 33 ]

N e w Y o r k , Ohio and Delaware, although pro­ ducing a grape which is delicate and wholesome, cannot compare with the more evenly balanced European grapes grown in California. Native grapes are lower in sugar content and higher in acid than the California varieties. The consumption of American wines is cal­ culated to be around fifty million gallons an­ nually. In time, no doubt, Americans will find that our own wines compare favorably with those of Europe, and for most purposes, will consume an increasingly greater amount at the dinner table, particularly the drier varieties such as Riesling, Claret, Burgundy, Sauterne, Chablis, and dry Sherry.

Hints For The

Hostess

Hospitality in beverages, today, begins with the selection of wines and spirits. One should choose his wine merchant, says an old contin­ ental tradition, with as much care as he chooses his family physician. Rigid fidelity to a timetested formula is the first rule of every reput­ able vintner, brewer, and distiller. F r o m the almost endless catalogue of beverages before you, select a f e w brands which appeal, and ex­ periment with them until you handle them well. Perfection you may never achieve. But every household may b e remembered for a piquant specialty. W h e n the graces of bever­ age service have been mastered, the accom­ modation of f o o d s will f o l l o w easily. Variety is always desirable, particularly in wines and liqueurs, but mere lavishness is no substitute f o r that studious attention to de­ tails o f planning and service which distinguish­ es the accomplished hostess. Sheer extrava­ gance in any f o r m always is wholly graceless. Precisely the right beverage at the right moment will accomplish infinitely more than the most tempting array of costly nectars in­ expertly handled. [ 34 ]

By and large, the rule in America for some years has been to drink whenever and what­ ever the cup o f f e r e d . Personal schedules ac­ commodated to preferences were all but impos­ sible. A n d when a choice label appeared be­ fore a company, the unwritten law appeared to require its immediate consumption to the dregs. T o d a y , the nation gradually is swinging back to the old custom of more or less ceremon­ ial drinking—the c e r e m o n y being the simple dictates o f cultivated taste. The "Sundown­ ers", that intrepid band of bon vivants who held it a high breach o f protocol to touch spirits in the work-a-day sunlight, have regained their honored standing. As between the various brands o f distilled spirits, the choice frequently is entirely a mat­ ter of preference. One selects Scotch, rye, or bourbon b y taste. Similarly, the choice of brandies is governed by flavors and bouquets. Cherry brandy or applejack will serve essen­ tially the same purposes in the butler's pantry. The difference between apricot, peach, and grape distillates is wholly a matter f o r the in­ dividual palate. In wines, however, there is involved the more complicated matter of dietary chemistry, and it is here that the hostess makes her telling de­ cisions. No one, o f course, takes a wine for its vitamines or muscle-building qualities. But neither does one undertake systematic "gast r o c i d e " b y haphazard combinations of sweet and tart wines, sharp brandies, and saccharine liqueurs.. W i n e is a " p o w e r f u l genius." It must be served accordingly. The principal distinction in wines is between the simple and fortified types. Simple wines, which are pure fermented grape juices, contain about ten to fourteen per cent alcohol. The fortified wines—port, sherry, Tokay, Maderia and muscatel—are strengthened by the addi­ tion o f brandy o r spirits. T h e y carry approx­ imately twenty per cent alcohol. [ 35 ]

Sherry is unique among the fortified wines for the tart, acidy quality called dryness, and for a matchless nutty, aromatic flavor. A t the other end o f the scale are the ports, characterized b y a rich, velvety sweetness. P o r t is the only fortified red wine. Clarets, Burgundies, sauternes, and the Ger­ man hocks are the favorite unfortified types.

Rules O n Serving Wine Most articles written on the subject of serv­ ing wine have accomplished nothing more than confuse and frighten the uninitiated and make him feel that if he must run the gauntlet of such agonizing c e r e m o n y and trouble to serve and enjoy wine, then he will take, instead, a cocktail, a fizz o r a sour. It is true that certain prescribed rules f o r serving wines should be followed, but these rules are quite simple. Serve wine in crystal clear glasses and never w o r r y t o o much about the shape of the glass. The glass should only be filled two-thirds full, thus making it possible to twirl the con­ tents slightly and inhale the characteristic aroma o f the wine. Some wines are better cold and others are better at r o o m temperature, but in cooling or chilling wines never put ice into them. White wines are served cooler than sweet wines, cooler than natural. It is well to wrap a napkin around a wine bottle when serving to prevent the warmth of the hand f r o m raising the temperature of the bottle and contents. Wine should be decanted if the vintage is old enough to have formed a crust and sedi­ ment. It should be poured slowly f r o m the bottle into another serving container. Port is almost always decanted. Care should be tak­ en to avoid agitating the contents. Wine, so that the color and clarity of the [ 36 ]

vintage may be enjoyed, should be served in clear thin glasses. A small amount should first be poured into the host's glass, if poured before being decanted, so that any loose pieces of cork will be in his glass only. Never warm wine rapidly. Permit it to warm gradually by standing in a r o o m o f the temperature desired. Never shake wine. If sediment is present, decant the wine carefully into another con­ tainer so as not to disturb the sediment. Never drink wine to quench your tween various wines throughout a water is drunk, the finer qualities of g o o d wine will be enhanced and the wine is sipped slowly.

thirst. Be­ dinner, if and flavor more so if

Serve dry wines only prior to the dessert course. Sweet wines should b e served only at the close of a meal—sparingly—with sweet desserts. Never serve a white wine with red meat. And a red wine should never be served during the early part of the dinner with fish courses. Remember that red meats, pork and game, call for light red wines while light white wines should be served with chicken, fish, vegetables and young lamb. However, it is no social crime to alter them according to either taste or necessity. I f y o u have only one wine in the house, serve it by all means. Serve it preferably with the proper course, but in any event, serve it. The- subject of serving wines, though inter­ esting in itself, is secondary to the social dic­ tum: Serve Wine ! Whether or not the glasses be correct, the temperature proper or the o c ­ casion suited to the s e l e c t i o n — S E R V E W I N E . [ 37 ]

Serving Wines To the hostess who wishes to serve a number of different wines during the dinner, the fol­ lowing order of serving is suggested : APPETIZERS: Dry Sherry at about 5 0 ° . Vermouth is also a favorite. Use a small, inverted cone glass. HORS D'OEUVRES : Riesling at 4 5 ° — i f an amber glass is used f o r wines with oysters, use a light green glass with this course or vice versa. OYSTERS : Chablis is the ideal wine to accompany oys­ ters, although a dry white Burgundy, dry Sauterne, or a Riesling may be served, 5 0 ° . Use glass a size larger than those used b e f o r e dinner. FISH : Dry wines—white Burgundy, Cortese, Orvieto, Rhine or Moselle, Riesling, Sauterne, Chablis, dry Champagne. A medium sized goblet should be used and serve at 4 5 ° . SALAD : White dry wine—preferably one which has previously been served. ENTREE : Red Meat—roast beef, steak, lamb, mutton, chops, etc., and heavy wild game such as duck, g o o s e , rabbit, venison, hare—serve Claret, Burgundy, St. Emilion, Cotes du Rhone, Zinfandel, Cabernet, etc. White Meat—Chicken, poultry, etc., serve dry Sauterne, Riesling, Chablis, Moselle. G a m e — S e r v e light red Burgundy, Pontet Canet, St. Macaire, Beaujolais, Claret. [ 38 ]

If two different red wines are used always serve the Bordeaux first and Burgundy af­ terwards. Room temperature. Glasses should be about 5 1/2 inches in height includ­ ing the stem. DESSERT: Serve sweet Sauterne, Chateau Y q u e m , sparkling Moselle, sparkling Burgundy, Champagne, T o k a y or sweet Madeira. PUDDING : Madeira, and Malaga at 50° in white glasses somewhat smaller than those used for Bur­ gundy and Cabernet. FRUIT : Tokay, Malaga, Muscat at 60° in small white glasses. CHEESE : Port at 70° in small white glasses contain­ ing twice as much as an ordinary Sherry glass. COFFEE : Liqueurs, etc.

Brandy,

Cognac,

Kirschwasser,

AFTER DINNER DRINKS : Angelica, Port, Tokay, Muscatel, Madeira, etc. Dry or light wines are served in larger quan­ tities than fortified or sweet wines. Since light wines do not keep well after they have been opened, it is advisable to use the entire bottle at once or serve half bottles if there are only two for dinner. A b o u t one large bottle for four people is correct. Following are the size glasses and approx[ 39 ]

imate temperatures at which various types of wine should be served. (2 to 3 ounce glass) Sherry Port Muscatel Angelica Tokay

Room temperature Room temperature Slightly cooled Slightly cooled Slightly cooled (3 to 4 ounce glass)

Burgundy Zinfandel Riesling Sauterne Chablis Rhine Moselle

Room temperature Room temperature Slightly chilled Slightly chilled Slightly chilled Slightly chilled Slightly chilled

[ 40 ]

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.

A b s i n t h e Goblet and Drip. Colonial s t y l e 2-piece Footed Punch Bowl. Brandy Inhaler or B r a n d y Snifter. Cocktail Sherry. Sherry W i n e . H i g h b a l l , Fizzes, Tall Punch, Lemonade, Etc. Red W i n e . Champagne, Burgundy, Etc. P o u s s e Cafe. Sparkting W i n e . Sweet W i n e s . Old Fashioned Cocktail and Toddy Glass. Brandies and R u m . Liqueurs and Cordials. W h i t e Dinner W i n e . Dinner W i n e . W h i s k e y Glass. W h i s k e y Sour.

[ 41 ]

Juleps,

V I N T A G E STATISTICS OF EUROPEAN WINES Alsatian

Bordeaux (Red Claret)

Bordeaux White

Burgundy Red and White

Champagne

[ 42 ]

1933 1932 1931 1930 1929 1928 1927 1926. 1925 1924 1923 1922 1921 1920 1919 1918 1917 1916 1915 1914 1913 1912 1911 1910 ***—Excellent.

**—Very

Good.

*_Good.

0—Poor.

Rhone

Rhine and Moselle

Proper Glasses Absinthe......... Special Absinthe goblet and drip Brandy 1 ounce Brandy Inhalers 5, 12, and 22 ounce, special Cocktail 3 to 4 ounce stem glass Cocktail ( C h a m p a g n e ) 5 to 51/2ounce stem glass Cocktail (Old Fashioned) 5 to 7 1/2 ounce bar glass Collins 12 to 16 ounce bar glass Cordial 1 ounce stem glass Crusta Champagne Cocktail stem glass Daisy Large stem cocktail or 6 to 8 oz. bar glass Egg N o g 8 to 12 ounce bar glass Fix .... 8 to 10 ounce bar glass Fizz 12 o u n c e bar glass Flip 8 to 12 ounce bar glass Frappe 8 ounce bar glass Highball 6 to 8 ounce bar glass Julep. . . . 10 to 12 oz. bar glass, or silver cups Pousse Cafe 1 ounce Pousse Cafe, stem glass or sherry wine glass Punches 10 to 14 ounce bar glass Rickey 8 to 12 ounce (tall) bar glass Sangaree 8 to 10 ounce bar glass Sling 6 to 8 ounce bar glass Sours 4 to 6 ounce bar glass Toddy 3 to 6 ounce bar glass T o m & Jerry 7 ounce special T o m & Jerry mugs Whiskey 1 to 2 1/2 o u n c e whiskey glass Hot Whiskey 5 to 6 ounce special glass Wine 13/4to 4 ounce stem glasses [ 43 ]

Standard Units of Measure 1 Scruple 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

1/3 dram; 20 grains or 1/24 ounce. Drachm 1/8 o f an ounce or 60 grains. Dash 1/3 teaspoon, o r 1 scruple. 1 fluid dram. Teaspoon Tablespoon ... 4 fluid drams or 1/2 fluid ounce. Pony 1 fluid ounce. Ounce 8 drachms or 480 grains. Jigger 11/2ounces or 1.6 ounces* Wineglass . . . . . . 2 fluid ounces. Gill 4 fluid ounces, or 1/4 pint. Pint 16 fluid ounces. Quart 32 fluid ounces. "Fifths" A p p r o x i m a t e l y 25 1/2 ounces, 1/5 gallon. Flagon ...2 quarts, 64 fluid ounces. Gallon T h e standard gallon o f the United States contains 128 fluid ounces or 231 cubic inches. This is almost exact­ ly equivalent t o a cylinder of seven inches in diameter and six inches in height, and is the same as the o l d English wine gallon. The old ale gal­ lon or b e e r gallon contained 282 cubic inches. T h e Eng­ lish Imperial gallon contains 277.420 cubic inches which is almost exactly 1 1/5 United States gallons.

1 Cuartilla

Is a Spanish wine measure a n d is equivalent t o 1.06 United States gallons. 4 Cuar­ tillas equal 1 A r o b a . 1 Puncheon.... A v e r y old term used in wine measure. In England the le­ gal value o f the wine punch­ eon was 84 wine gallons, or 70 imperial gallons. [ 44 ]

1 Firkin

9 Imperial gallons o r United States gallons.

10.7

* N o t e — F o r many years the term j i g g e r has been' used to denote a certain amount or unit of measure and also an instrument o f measure of varying f o r m . A n e x a c t definition of the size o f a j i g g e r is not f o u n d in authentic dic­ tionaries. A s a unit of measure, it evidently had its origin at the bars o f long a g o . Thus, without foundation f o r its size in dictionaries, there is no authority f o r exact determination of its measure. S o m e localities, in usage, rec­ ognize it as containing 1 ounce and others vary from there to 2 1/2 ounces. The author, after careful study, and f o r the purposes o f the usage of the term herein, places it at 1.6 ounce, the best authorities having adopted this quan­ tity.

The Art O f

Mixing

There are f e w beverages which may not be improved by a bit o f mixing and shaking. A dash o f this or a pinch o f that to tempt the jaded appetite! Even water, the only drink which really will quench a thirst, often is im­ proved by a slight modification o f the natural temperature. A p p r o a c h i n g the finer products of the distiller's o r vintner's art, w e c o m e upon a field in which mixing and blending are the great secrets. In the hectic pace of the last fifteen years, America has had little time to contemplate the higher rules of palatability. Human gastron­ o m y has suffered accordingly. A n d as palates became calloused, manners and social graces tended perceptibly t o drift in the direction of the kitchen sink, the basement, or the garret. T o an amazing degree, sociability gravitated from the fireside to the furnace r o o m . Today the mixing still is done in the kitchen, but po­ lite drinking has returned to the drawing r o o m and the dining salon. [ 45 ]

Like famous songs, the best drinks are cap­ tive inspirations. Maps are a part of every traveler's pack, but the great discoveries are to those who venture prudently beyond the topographers' charts. A s the celebrated Jerry Thomas was wont to tell his embryo bartend­ ers at the famous Planters' House, in St. Louis ; " A n efficient bartender's first aim should be to please his customers, paying particular at­ tention to meet the individual wishes of those whose tastes and desires he has already watched and ascertained ; and with those whose pecul­ iarities he has had no opportunity to learn, he should politely inquire h o w they wish their beverages served, and use his best j u d g m e n t in endeavoring to fulfill their desires to their entire satisfaction." Thus, flexibility and a genial attitude o f ex­ perimentation are distinguishing marks of the expert beverage chemist. Recipes are as neces­ sary as the traveler's maps, but they are never immutable. T o violate a favorite recipe wise­ ly may be to produce a new and superior con­ coction. Often in the pages which follow, sev­ eral cocktails, juleps, or fizzes will appear identical to the hasty reader. On closer exam­ ination he will find, however, that one carries a dash m o r e o f some secondary ingredient. Many o f our most famous drinks differ only in the proportions o f sugars, bitters, spices, or flavoring. F r o m the Spanish language comes the only word which offers an all-inclusive rule for mix­ ing. The w o r d is sympatica. Drinks and por­ tions of drinks always must be sympatica ; they must blend smoothly ; they may never be antag­ onistic in either chemistry or taste. After mixed whiskies or brandies, f o r example, wines go well with f o o d . But whiskey soon after wines is not harmonious. Within the broad limits o f this happy rule of sympatica, every host may b e c o m e his own giver of the laws of tipple and snack. F o r the most part these [ 46 ]

pages provide merely the guiding recipes, to­ gether with an occasional helpful hint on preparation or service. In the mixing o f cold drinks discrimination should be practiced in the use of ice. A s a gen­ eral rule, shaved ice should be used when spirits f o r m the principal ingredient o f the drink. W h e n eggs, milk, wine, vermouth, selt­ zer, or mineral waters are employed, small lumps o f ice will serve better. Save in highballs, the ice cubes generally should be r e m o v e d from the drink b e f o r e serving. Hot drinks are best served in glasses well rinsed in hot water. Otherwise the beverage will not be sufficiently hot to please the fastid­ ious taste. Sugar does not dissolve readily in spirits. The sugar, therefore, always should be dis­ solved in water before the spirits are added. Hot wines or spirits, as in punches and mulled drinks, always must be poured gradually upon the eggs o r milk while the mixture is stirred briskly. Otherwise, the alcohols will cook the eggs or curdle the milk. Cordials, bitters, and syrups always should be cooled gradually, and not laid upon ice. But fine old Cognac loses its velvety smoothness when chilled. In serving a mixed drink, the glass it is to be strained into should be filled with fine ice while preparing the drink. W h e n the drink is completed throw the ice out o f the service glass and strain the drink into it from the mix­ ing glass. Whiskey began as a national drink, but b e ­ cause such geographically extensive nations as the United States, England, and Canada favored the cereal distillates they have b e c o m e almost universal in appeal. Scotland and Ire­ land also are whiskey producers. A s these peoples migrated to all corners o f the world [ 47 ]

they carried with them their preferred mulae.

for­

The Frenchman rejects the British fashion of sipping whiskey diluted with soda or mineral water as a gastronomical atrocity, particular­ l y when taken with meals. A n d he contends the A m e r i c a n cocktail is the ruination of fine wines. The Britisher answers that, assuming fine brands taken only in temperate quantities, whiskey is the most wholesome o f alcoholic beverages. The American responds that, p r o p ­ erly compounded, the cocktail is the gentlest of drinks. The once general American custom o f whiskey " n e a t " (undiluted) never has great v o g u e elsewhere. Epicures the around f r o w n upon the habit as utterly less.

taking gained world grace­

The finer traditions have it that a gentleman will never a c c e p t m o r e than two services o f whiskey successively.

The

Cobbler

Like the j u l e p , this delicious potation is an A m e r i c a n invention, although it is n o w a favor­ ite in all warm climates. The " c o b b l e r " does not require much skill in c o m p o u n d i n g , but to make it acceptable to the eye, as well as to the palate, it is necessary to display some taste in ornamenting the glass after the beverage is made. A l w a y s serve a straw with a cobbler. Berries, in season, should always be used if possible in dressing o r ornamenting. First fill the glass with shaved or fine cracked ice, add ingredients, stir, dress and serve. Catawba

Cobbler

1

Teaspoonful powdered sugar, dissolved in 1 tablespoonful water 11/2Wineglass Catawba wine 1 o r 2 slices orange [ 48 ]

Champagne Cobbler 1/2 Glass shaved or cracked ice 1 Tablespoonful sugar 1 Slice lemon peel 1 Slice orange peel Fill with Champagne Claret Cobbler 1 Teaspoonful sugar, dissolved in water 1 or 2 slices of orange 11/2.Wineglass claret Hock Cobbler Prepared in the same manner as Catawba, except that Hock wine is used in place of the Catawba. Port Cobbler 2 Tablespoonfuls powdered sugar 1 Jigger mineral water 1 1/2 Wineglass Port wine Sauterne Cobbler 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 1 Pony orchard syrup 1 1/2 Wineglass Sauterne Sherry Cobbler (California) 1 Teaspoonful sugar 1 Pony syrup 1 Wineglass California Sherry A f t e r mixing and dressing with fruit, gently add a little port wine on top. Sherry Cobbler 1 Tablespoonful powdered sugar 1 1/2 Wineglass sherry wine 1 or 2 slices orange W e ' l l drink tonight with hearts as light, T o l o v e s as g a y and fleeting A s bubbles that swim on the beaker's brim A n d break on the lips while m e e t i n g . —Hoffman

[ 49 ]

Whiskey Cobbler 1 1 2 1

Tablespoonful sugar, dissolved Tablespoonful pineapple syrup Slices of orange Jigger whiskey Shake well, dress and serve.

Whiskey Cobbler No. 2 1 Jigger whiskey 1/2 P o n y Curacoa Juice of 1/2 lemon 1 Slice of lemon 1 Slice of orange

Cocktails Cocktail is the name given to a certain class of mixed drinks originating in this country. The distinction f o r their origin has been given to Betsy Flanagan, who was a barmaid at Halls Corners, ( n o w known as O'Brien's Ledger h o u s e ) , at Elmsford, N e w York. She had been serving some of her own concoctions known as "Betsy's Bracers" to officers temporarily quartered at the inn during the American Rev­ olution. It was her custom to dress the glasses on her bar with the tail feathers of fowl which inspired the name of cocktail for her concoc­ tions. Cocktails as they are served today consist o f various spirits, syrups, etc., iced and usually flavored with bitters, (originally all cocktails were flavored with b i t t e r s ) . Cocktails should be served in regular cocktail glasses unless the individual recipe specifies otherwise. The glass should be chilled with ice, then remove the ice and pour in the mixed cocktail. In pre­ paring the beverage it should be iced, mixed well in a shaker and then strained into the cocktail glass. It may be dressed in various ways as desired but preferably with a Maraschino Cherry or a Green Olive. [ 50 ]

3 2 1 1

Absinthe Cocktail No. 1 Dashes of Benedictine Dashes of bitters P o n y of water P o n y of Absinthe

3 1 1 1 1

Absinthe Cocktail No. 2 Dashes of gum syrup Dash of bitters Dash of Anisette Pony of water P o n y of Absinthe

Juice 1 Dash 1 Pony 1 Pony

of of of of

Alexander Cocktail 1/2 lime sweet cream Gin Creme de Cacao

Alexander Special Cocktail 1 P o n y of Creme de Cacao 1 P o n y of Dry Gin 1 P o n y of pure cream Apple Jack Cocktail 3 Dashes gum syrup 3 Dashes raspberry syrup 1 Jigger apple j a c k Apple Jack Coctail 1 Dash Angostura Bitters 1 P o n y of Italian Vermonth 1 P o n y of Apple Jack 1 1 1 2

Aviation Cocktail Jigger o f Apple-jack P o n y of lime juice Dash of Absinthe or 3 dashes of Grenadine

Bacardi Cocktail 1 Jigger Bacardi Rum 3 Dashes Grenadine Juice of 1/2 lime [ 51 ]

Bamboo Cocktail 1 P o n y Sherry wine 1 P o n y F r e n c h Vermouth 2 Dashes Orange bitters Benedictine Cocktail ( V e r y popular in Europe before dinner) 1 P o n y o f Benedictine 1/2 Pony o f Lime j u i c e 1 P o n y o f French V e r m o u t h Biltmore Cocktail ( A s served at the Biltmore H o t e l ) Fresh pineapple, muddled 1 Dash o f Maraschino 1/2 Pony o f Italian V e r m o u t h 1 Jigger of Dry Gin Served with 1 Hazel nut preserved in Mara­ schino. Blue Moon Cocktail 1/2 Jigger Dry Gin 1/2 Jigger Creme de Violette Bobby Burns Cocktail 1 P o n y o f Scotch Whisky 1/2 Pony Italian V e r m o u t h 1 Dash o f Angostura Bitters Box Car Cocktail White of 1 egg 1 Dash Grenadine syrup Juice o f 1/2 lime 1/2 Jigger of Cointreau 1/2 Jigger of Gin Strain into a cocktail glass with frosted rim. Fancy Brandy Cocktail No. 1 2 or 3 dashes gum syrup 2 Dashes of Angostura bitters 1 or 2 dashes of Curacoa 1 Jigger of brandy A f t e r mixing and straining, a squirt o f Champagne will add to the delicacy o f flavor. [ 52 ]

Fancy Brandy Cocktail No. 2 2 or 3 dashes of g u m syrup 2 Dashes o f A n g o s t u r a bitters 2 Dashes of Maraschino 1 Jigger of brandy Give the rim of the glass a frosted with powdered sugar.

effect

Bronx Cocktail ( A s served at Angostura Bar, Trinidad) 1/3 French V e r m o u t h 1/3 Italian V e r m o u t h 1/3 Gin 3 Dashes o f Orange bitters 1 Slice of Orange Champagne

Cocktail

( A pint bottle of wine is sufficient for three g o b l e t s ) . (Use a 5 ounce Champagne G o b l e t ) . 1/3 Goblet cracked ice 1 Lump o f sugar 1 or 2 dashes of Angostura bitters 1 Slice of Orange Fill with Champagne and stir. Use none but the genuine Angostura bitters which possess a certain rich flavor and delicate perfume altogether unapproachable b y others. Champagne

Cocktail

( A s served at Copeley Plaza, B o s t o n ) 1 Lump of sugar saturated with Angostura bitters 1 Piece of lemon peel Use a 5 ounce stem glass and fill with chilled Champagne. Chocolate Cocktail 1 1 1 1

Pony Maraschino Pony Y e l l o w Chartreuse P o n y Blackberry Brandy Y o l k o f an egg. [ 53 ]

Coffee Cocktail 1 Fresh egg 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 1 Wineglass of port wine 1 P o n y brandy Grate a little nutmeg on top. 2 2 1 1

Club Cocktail Dashes of Rum Dashes o f Orange bitters Dash o f Green Chartreuse P o n y dry Gin

Cocktail Coffee 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar l Egg 1 Wineglass of Port Wine 1 P o n y of brandy Grate a little nutmeg on top before serving. Daiquiri Cocktail Juice of 1/4 lemon or of 1/2 lime 1 Teaspoonful p o w d e r e d sugar 1 Jigger Bacardi Rum Delmonico Special ( A s served at Delmonico's) 1 P o n y of Gin 1/2 P o n y of French Vermouth 1/2 P o n y of Italian V e r m o u t h 1 P o n y of brandy 1 Twist o f Orange peel 3 Dashes o f Angostura bitters Dubonnet Cocktail ( A s served at the Embassy Club) 1 P o n y of Dubonnet 1 P o n y dry gin 3 Dashes of Angostura bitters Duchess Cocktail 1/3 Jigger of French Vermouth 1/3 Jigger of Italian V e r m o u t h 1/3 Jigger Absinthe [ 54 ]

Duke of Burgundy Cocktail 2 / 3 Jigger dry gin 1/3 Jigger Cordial Medoc Juice of 1 lime Dykaree Cocktail 1 Jigger dry gin 1/2 P o n y lime or lemon juice 1/2 P o n y Dykaree syrup East India Cocktail 3 Dashes Raspberry syrup 3 Dashes Red Curacoa 3 Dashes A n g o s t u r a bitters 3 Dashes Maraschino 1 Jigger o f brandy Serve with a twist of lemon peel. Emerald Cocktail 1 P o n y of Irish Whisky 1 P o n y Italian V e r m o u t h 1 P o n y Scotch Whisky Futurity Cocktail 2 Dashes Angostura bitters 1 P o n y Italian Vermouth 1 P o n y Sloe Gin 3 2 1 2

Gin Cocktail Dashes gum syrup Dashes Angostura bitters Jigger gin Dashes o f Curacoa or Absinthe Serve with a twist of lemon peel.

Fancy Gin and Whisky Cocktail Prepared the same as Brandy N o . 2, substi­ tuting equal parts Gin and Whisky in place of the Brandy. Gin Cocktail 1/2 Jigger Sloe Gin 1/2 Jigger Old T o m Gin 1 Dash Orange bitters [ 55 ]

Golf Cocktail 1/2 Pony French Vermouth 1 P o n y Dry Gin 2 Dashes Angostura Bitters 3 2 2 1

Old Tom Gin Cocktail Dashes of gum syrup Dashes Angostura bitters Dashes Curacoa Jigger Old T o m Gin Serve with a twist o f lemon peel.

Hoosiac Tunnel Cocktail Juice o f 1/2 lemon 1 Tablespoonful sugar 1 Dash Orange bitters 1 Dash o f cream 1 Jigger of Gin Serve with a little nutmeg on top. Hunter Cocktail 1 P o n y R y e Whisky 1 P o n y Cherry Brandy Japanese Cocktail 1 Tablespoonful Orgeat Syrup 2 Dashes Angostura Bitters 1 Jigger Brandy Jack Rose Cocktail 1 Jigger Apple-jack brandy 1 P o n y Grenadine Juice o f 1/2 lime Jersey Cocktail 1 Teaspoonful sugar 3 Dashes Angostura Bitters 1 Wineglass o f cider A Book of V e r s e s underneath the B o u g h , A Jug of W i n e , a L o a f of Bread, and thou Beside me singing in the W i l d e r n e s s — Oh ! W i l d e r n e s s were Paradise e n o w ! —Omar Khayyam

[ 56 ]

Kentucky Colonel Cocktail 1/2 Pony Benedictine 1 Jigger B o u r b o n whisky Use an old fashioned glass and serve with a twist of lemon peel. Lone Tree Cocktail 1/2 Jigger Italian V e r m o u t h 1 Jigger T o m Gin Mallory Cocktail 1/2 P o n y o f Cognac brandy 1/2 Pony of A p r i c o t brandy 1/2 P o n y of Creme de Menthe 2 Dashes o f Absinthe 1 1 3 3

Manhattan Cocktail No. 1 Pony French Vermouth P o n y whisky or 4 dashes A n g o s t u r a bitters Dashes gum syrup

2 2 1 1

Manhattan Cocktail No. 2 Dashes Curacoa Dashes Angostura bitters P o n y whisky P o n y Italian V e r m o u t h

Martinez Cocktail Same as either of the Manhattans, substitut­ ing Gin in place of whisky. Martini Cocktail 1 P o n y dry gin 1 P o n y Italian V e r m o u t h Stir well in ice, do n o t shake. Serve in cocktail glass with a green olive. Squeeze a slice of lemon peel over each glass after it is poured. N o t h i n g in Nature's sober found. B u t an eternal "health" goes round. Fill up the bowl then, fill it h i g h — Fill all the g l a s s e s there ; for why Should e v e r y creature drink but I, W h y , m a n of m o r t a l s , tell m e w h y ?

[ 57 ]

Dry Martini Cocktail 2 / 3 Jigger dry gin 1/3 Jigger dry V e r m o u t h 1 D r o p o f Orange bitters Stir well with ice, strain and serve with an olive or a twist of lemon peel in the glass. Miami Cocktail 1 P o n y of r u m 1 P o n y o f Cointreau 3 Dashes lemon j u i c e 1 5 1 2 1

Millionaire Cocktail Dash Orange bitters Dashes o f Curacoa Jigger E y e W h i s k y Dashes Grenadine syrup White of an e g g Serve in a claret glass.

Morning Cocktail 3 or 4 dashes o f gum syrup 2 Dashes R e d Curacoa 2.Dashes A n g o s t u r a bitters 1 dash o f Absinthe 1 P o n y o f brandy 1 P o n y o f whisky 1 Twist of lemon peel Stir well, strain and fill the glass with cold syphon water and stir again with a teaspoon having a little sugar in it. Number One Cocktail 1 P o n y Old T o m Gin 1/2 P o n y Italian V e r m o u t h 1 T w i s t o f lemon peel Here's a m o d e l for us all, "Do it n o w . " Should the work be great or small, "Do it n o w . " So to b a n i s h all your sorrow, Don't put off until tomorrow, From t h e w i n e such joy to borrow, "Do it n o w . "

[ 58 ]

Old Fashioned Cocktail 1 Lump o f sugar 1 Teaspoonful of Carbonated water 2 Dashes bitters 1 Jigger whisky In a thick-bottomed old fashioned glass, crush the sugar in the water and bitters, add the whisky and a cube o f ice, stir and dress with a cherry, slice of orange and a twist of lemon peel. Old Pal Cocktail 1 P o n y of whisky 1 P o n y Creme de Menthe 1 Pony French Vermouth Orange Blossom Cocktail 1 P o n y dry gin 1 P o n y orange j u i c e 1 P o n y Italian Vermouth, ( s w e e t )

1 1 1/2 2

Pink Lady Cocktail P o n y of gin P o n y Apple-jack Tablespoonful Grenadine Dashes lime juice

Planter's Punch Cocktail Juice o f 1/2 lime 1 Teaspoonful p o w d e r e d sugar 1 Jigger Jamaica rum 1 Dash A n g o s t u r a bitters Ice and shake well, strain into a large glass filled with i c e . Polar Cocktail 1 P o n y Maraschino 1 P o n y dry gin Juice o f 1/2 lemon White o f 1 egg Strain into a claret glass with a little whipped cream on t o p . [ 59 ]

1 1 1 1

Rock and Rye Cocktail Jigger R o c k and Rye P o n y Port w i n e Dash A n g o s t u r a bitters Dash lime j u i c e

Saratoga Cocktail 2 Dashes Angostura bitters 1 P o n y of brandy 1 P o n y of whisky 1 P o n y of V e r m o u t h Strain into a claret glass and serve with a slice of lemon. Cocktail Saratoga 3 Dashes pineapple syrup 2 or 3 dashes bitters 1 Jigger brandy 3 Dashes Maraschino Stir well with a spoon. Place 2 or 3 straw­ berries in a fancy glass, strain in the mixture, twist a piece of lemon peel over it, t o p it o f f with a squirt of Champagne and serve. Side Car Cocktail 1 P o n y Contreau or Triple Sec. 1 P o n y Cognac 1 P o n y lemon juice 1 W h i t e o f an egg Give the rim of the glass a frosted with powdered sugar.

effect

Soda Cocktail 1 Teaspoonful sugar 2 or 3 dashes Angostura bitters 5 or 6 lumps cracked ice Fill the glass with a bottle of lemon soda, stir well, ornament with a slice of orange and berries and serve. L e t m e play t h e fool ; W i t h mirth and laughter let old wrinkles come ; A n d let m y liver rather heat with wine. T h a n m y heart cool with mortifying g r o a n s . —Shakespeare

[ 60 ]

Temptation Cocktail 1 Jigger Apple brandy 1 teaspoonful p o w d e r e d sugar Juice o f 1/2 lemon Strain into a tall bar glass, fill with seltzer of dry ginger ale.

2 2 1 1 1

Turf Cocktail Dashes Orange bitters Dashes Maraschino Dash Absinthe P o n y French Vermouth P o n y dry gin

Vermouth Cocktail No. 1 1 Jigger French Vermouth 3 Dashes A n g o s t u r a bitters 2 Dashes gum syrup Vermouth Cocktail No. 2 4 or 5 dashes g u m syrup 1 or 2 dashes A n g o s t u r a bitters 2 Dashes Maraschino 1 Jigger V e r m o u t h Serve with a piece of lemon peel on top. Waldorf Cocktail ( A s s e r v e d at the W a l d o r f - A s t o r i a ) 1 Dash bitters 1/3 Jigger o f R y e 1/3 Jigger o f Absinthe 1 /3 Jigger Italian V e r m o u t h Washington Cocktail 1/2 P o n y brandy 1 P o n y French V e r m o u t h 3 Dashes A n g o s t u r a bitters 3 Dashes gum syrup T h e n a smile, and a g l a s s , and a toast, and a cheer F o r all t h e good wine, and w e ' v e some of it here ! In cellar, in pantry, in attic, in hall, L o n g live the g a y s e r v a n t t h a t l a u g h s f o r us all ! —Holmes

[ 61 ]

2 1 1 1

Whisky Cocktail or 3 dashes gum syrup or 2 dashes A n g o s t u r a bitters or 2 dashes-Curacoa Jigger whisky

Twist a piece o f lemon peel on top and serve. Zazarac Cocktail ( A s served at the Embassy Club) 2 Lumps of ice 1 Lump of sugar 1 Jigger B o u r b o n whisky 1 or 2 drops of Absinthe 1 Dash Angostura bitters Stir well, serve in an old fashioned with a twist o f orange and lemon peel. Zulu Cocktail 1/2 Jigger dry gin 1/2 Jigger cherry brandy 2 Dashes Angostura bitters.

glass

Collins A beverage made by mixing lemon juice, powdered sugar, spirit desired and straining into a tall thin glass with clean shaved ice and filling with soda water. John Collins' Gin 2 Teaspoonfuls sugar 5 Dashes lemon juice 1 Jigger of gin 5 or 6 lumps of ice 1 Bottle of plain soda Mix well, r e m o v e the ice and serve. Sandy Collins 1 Jigger Scotch whisky 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar Juice of 1/2 lemon Mix well, strain into a tall glass containing one cube of ice. Fill with soda or seltzer to taste. [ 62 ]

Tom Collins 2 Cubes o f ice 5 Dashes simple syrup Juice 1/2 lemon 1 Jigger d r y gin Tom Collins' Brandy 1 or 2 lumps cracked ice 5 o r 6 dashes gum syrup 1 or 2 dashes Maraschino Juice of one small lemon 1 Jigger brandy Fill with plain soda or seltzer and do not shake if the soda or seltzer is cold. Tom Collins' Gin and Whisky This is prepared in the same manner as the brandy collins, substituting equal parts gin and whisky in place o f the brandy.

Crustas The "Crusta" is an improvement on the " C o c k t a i l " and is said to have been invented b y Santina, a celebrated Spanish caterer of New Orleans, of nearly 100 years ago. Brandy Crusta Fill mixing glass 3/4 full shaved ice 3 or 4 dashes gum syrup 1 o r 2 dashes A n g o s t u r a 1 o r 2 dashes lemon juice 2 Dashes Maraschino 1 Jigger o f brandy Using a nice bright lemon, the size of the wine glass; peel the rind from it all in one piece ; fit it into the glass, c o v e r i n g the entire inside ; run a slice o f lemon around the edge, and dip the glass in p o w d e r e d sugar to give the rim a frosted effect. Strain the mixture, after stirring well, into this prepared glass. Orna­ ment with a little fruit and serve. [ 63 ]

Gin Crusta Is prepared in the same manner as the Bran­ d y Crusta, substituting gin f o r brandy. St. Croix Crusta Prepare the rind of a lemon as in a brandy Crusta. 3 or 4 dashes orchard syrup 1 Dash o f A n g o s t u r a bitters 1 Dash lemon j u i c e 2 Dashes o f Maraschino 1 Jigger o f St. Croix Rum. Ice, stir and strain into the prepared glass. Ornament with bits of fruits and berries and serve. Whisky Crusta Prepare and serve as in Brandy Crusta. 3 or 4 dashes gum syrup 1 or two dashes Angostura bitters 1 or 2 dashes lemon j u i c e 2 Dashes Maraschino 2 Dashes o f Curacoa 1 Jigger o f whisky

Daisies A Daisy is a drink made b y mixing the in­ gredients o f the drink in a mixing glass with­ out ice and then pouring it into a glass con­ taining clean shaved ice, stirring with a spoon and serving, dressed with fruits and, if de­ sired, a sprig of mint on t o p . Brandy Daisy 3 or 4 dashes of gum syrup 2 or 3 dashes of Curacoa Juice o f 1/2 lemon 2 or 3 dashes of Orange cordial 1 Jigger of brandy A d d Seltzer or Apollinaris water to suit. [ 64 ]

Canadian Daisy Juice 1/2 lemon 1 Jigger whisky 1 P o n y Raspberry syrup Gin Daisy Is prepared in the same manner as the Bran­ dy Daisy, substituting gin f o r brandy. Ginger Daisy This is prepared in the same manner as Bran­ dy Daisy, substituting gingerale f o r either Apollinaris water o r Seltzer. Lauder's Daisy Juice of 1/2 lemon Juice o f 1/2 lime 1 Jigger Scotch whisky 1 P o n y o f simple syrup Rum Daisy Prepared the same as Brandy Daisy, substi­ tuting R u m f o r Brandy. Santa Cruz Rum Daisy 2 or 4 dashes of gum syrup 2 or 3 dashes of Curacoa Juice o f 1/2 lemon 1 Jigger Santa Cruz rum Whisky Daisy No. 1 3 Dashes gum syrup 2 Dashes Orgeat syrup Juice of 1/2 lemon 1 Jigger Rye whisky Whisky Daisy No. 2 Tablespoonful sugar 3 or 4 dashes lemon juice 1 Dash of lime j u i c e 1 Pony Seltzer water 1 Jigger g o o d whisky 1/2 Pony Chartreuse [ 65 ]

Egg Nogs E g g N o g ( E g g Nogg is the old fashioned spelling) is a beverae of American origin, but it has a popularity that is cosmopolitan. In the South it is almost indispensable at Christmas time, and in the North it is a favorite in all seasons. In Scotland they call E g g Nog, "auld man's milk." Baltimore Egg Nog 1 yolk of an egg, 3/4 tablespoonful of sugar, add a little nutmeg and ground cinnamon and beat the mixture to a cream. A d d 1/2 p o n y of brandy or Jamaica rum, 3 or 4 lumps of cracked ice, 1 wineglass of Madeira wine, fill the glass with milk and shake thoroughly. Strain, grate a little nutmeg on top and serve. Boston Egg Nog Y o l k of 1 egg 3/4 Teaspoonful of powdered sugar A d d a little nutmeg and cinnamon and beat to a cream 1/2 P o n y of brandy 1 Wineglass shaved ice 1/2 Pony Jamaica rum 1 Jigger Madeira wine Fill the glass with milk, shake well, strain into a large bar glass, grate a little nutmeg on top and serve.

Then fill a fair and h o n e s t cup, And bear it s t r a i g h t to m e ; The goblet hallows all it holds. W h a t e'er the liquid be, And m a y the cherubs on its face, Protect m e from the sin T h a t dooms me to t h o s e dreadful words, " M y dear, where have you b e e n ? " —Oliver

[ 66 ]

Wendell

Holmes

Bowl of Egg Nog for a Party * (Use a large punch bowl) 21/2Pounds of powdered sugar 20 Eggs Separate the yolks ; beat as thin as water and add them to the sugar and dissolve by stirring well together, then add 2 Quarts of brandy 11/2Pints of Jamaica rum 2 Gallons of milk Mix the ingredients well and stir continually while pouring the milk into the mixture to pre­ vent it f r o m curdling; then beat the whites o f the eggs to a stiff froth and put this on top. Serve with a ladle putting some of the egg froth on each glass with a little nutmeg grated on top. Sufficient to serve a party o f 20 peo­ ple. Cider Egg Nog 1 Egg 1/4 Teaspoonful sugar 1/2 Glass shaved ice Fill with sweet cider Shake well and strain; grate a little nutmeg on top and serve. This is an old favorite, but a good cider must be used to insure the drink being palatable. Egg Nog Plain Cook the yolk of 1 egg b y mixing thoroughly with 1 jigger whisky. Beat the white of the egg until fairly stiff. A d d 1 spoon of sugar. As much milk as deemed necessary. Shake well and strain, dashing a little nutmeg on top. Hot Egg Nog Same as previous recipe, omitting ice and using hot milk. [ 67 ]

General Harrison Egg Nog (This was General Harrison's favorite and was very popular on the Mississippi river boats in the early days.) 2 or 3 small pieces cracked ice 1 Fresh egg 1/2 Teaspoonful sugar Fill with cider; shake well, strain and add a little nutmeg on top. Imperial Egg Nog 1 Tablespoonful sugar 1 Fresh egg 1/3 Glass shaved ice 1 Jigger brandy 1 P o n y Jamaica rum Fill the glass with rich milk, shake thorough­ ly and strain. Grate a little n u t m e g ' o n t o p if desired. Sherry Egg Nog No. 1 1 Tablespoonful sugar 1 Fresh e g g 1 P o n y brandy 1 Jigger Sherry Fill with shaved ice. Shake well, strain into a fancy bar glass and serve with nutmeg on top. Sherry Egg Nog No. 2 2 Teaspoonfuls sugar 1 Fresh egg 11/2Wineglass of Sherry 1/2 Glass shaved ice Fill with milk and shake thoroughly, add nut­ meg on t o p and serve.

Fixes Apple-Jack Fix Prepared same as Brandy or Whisky Fix, using apple-jack instead. [ 68 ]

Brandy Fixes T w o teaspoonfuls powdered white sugar, dissolved in a little water ; 1/2 p o n y pineapple syrup, or the j u i c e f r o m the quarter of a lem­ o n ; 1 j i g g e r o f brandy; 3 dashes of Curacoa. Stir well, dress with fruits and serve with a straw. Gin Fix One large tablespoonful powdered sugar dis­ solved in a little water. 1/2 pony pineapple or raspberry syrup, or the j u i c e o f a quarter of a lemon ; add 1 j i g g e r Holland gin, stir well, dress with fruits and serve with a straw. St. Croix or Santa Cruz Rum Fix 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 1 P o n y water 2 or 3 dashes o f lemon juice 1/2 P o n y of fruit syrup 1 Jigger St. Croix or Santa Cruz rum Stir well, dress with fruit, orange or pine­ apple and serve with a straw.

Fizzes A n effervescing drink or a liquor with other ingredients prepared so as to effervesce. The ingredients used should be mixed with ice and strained into a fizz glass then fill the glass with some effervescing or charged water such as Syphon Seltzer which must be extra cold. A small piece of lemon may be crushed and placed over the top o f the drink if desired. Mix by stirring with a spoon. Brandy Fizz 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar Juice o f 1/2 L e m o n 1 Jigger of brandy 2 Dashes of the white of an egg. Serve in fizz style as outlined above. [ 69 ]

Cream Fizz 1 Jigger of gin 1 P o n y lemon Juice. 1 Teaspoonful sugar 1/2 Jigger of cream Gin Fizz 1 Jigger Dry Gin Juice 1/2 lime or 1/4 lemon 1 Tablespoonful powdered sugar Golden Fizz The yolk of one egg 1 Tablespoonful powdered sugar 2 or 3 dashes lemon or lime juice 1 Jigger Old Tom Gin or whisky Morning Glory Fizz Mix 4 dashes Absinthe in a little water 3 Dashes lime juice 4 Dashes lemon juice 1/2 Teaspoonful p o w d e r e d sugar The white of one e g g 1 Jigger of whisky This is an excellent morning beverage, a wonderful tonic and nerve quieter. New Orleans Fizz 1 Jigger Dry Gin Juice o f 1/2 lemon 2 Dashes of Orange flower water 1 Teaspoonful sugar 1 White of an e g g 1 Jigger of cream 1 Dash lime j u i c e Orange Fizz 1 Jigger dry gin 1 Jigger Orange juice 1/2 Teaspoonful p o w d e r e d sugar Pineapple Fizz 1 Jigger dry gin 1 Jigger pineapple j u i c e [ 70 ]

Royal Fizz 1 Jigger gin or whisky 1/2 Jigger lemon j u i c e 1 Teaspoonful p o w d e r e d sugar 1 Egg Sloe Gin Fizz 1 Jigger Sloe gin Juice o f 1/2 lemon 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar Silver Fizz 1 Tablespoonful powdered sugar 3 or 4 dashes lemon or lime juice 1 Jigger Old T o m gin or whiskey The white of one egg Whisky Fizz (plain) 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar Juice o f 1/4 lemon or 1/2 lime 2 or 3 dashes of the white o f an egg 1 Jigger of Bourbon or R y e whisky

Flips A sweetened and sometimes spiced beverage which is composed of ale, beer, cider, or spirits and usually containing an egg or eggs. In some places a Flip is prepared b y stirring the mixture with a hot iron to heat it and impart to it a burnt taste. In preparing a Flip, ice, (if desired c o l d ) , shake well, strain and serve. Brandy Flip 1 Fresh e g g thoroughly beaten 1 Tablespoonful powdered sugar 1 Jigger brandy Use the shaker in mixing; strain into a f a n c y glass; grate a little nutmeg on top and serve. [ 71 ]

Gin Flip 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 1 Jigger Holland gin 1 Egg Glasgow Flip Beat 1 e g g thoroughly Juice of 1 lemon 2 Teaspoonfuls p o w d e r e d sugar Balance, cold ginger ale Stir well and serve Port Wine Flip 1 Egg 2 Tablespoonfuls p o w d e r e d sugar 11/2Wineglass port wine Use the shaker and t o p with a little nutmeg. Sherry Flip Same as port wine flip, substituting wine in place of the port wine.

sherry

Whisky Flip Is prepared in the same manner as brandy flip, substituting whisky in place of the brandy.

Frappes A beverage consisting of various ingredients and flavors and which has been loosely frozen to serve. Prepare with ice. A regular cooler is obtainable which gives best results f o r mak­ ing frappes. Absinthe Frappe 3 Dashes o f Benedictine 1 P o n y of Absinthe 1 J i g g e r o f water Shake the ingredients until the outside of the shaker has a frosty appearance", strain and serve. [ 72 ]

Frapped Cafe Royal Consists o f 3/4 o f black c o f f e e and 1/4 brandy, frapped in a cooler, and drunk while the mix­ ture is yet in a semi-frozen state. It is very potent. Champagne Frappe Place the bottle in the champagne c o o l e r ; fill with shaved ice well salted and whirl the bottle until the wine b e c o m e s almost frozen. Vermouth Frappe Fill glass 1/2 full with shaved or cracked ice ; add 1 j i g g e r o f F r e n c h V e r m o u t h . Fill with cold Seltzer or Apollinaris water and frap in a cooler.

Highballs Bourbon Highball 2 Cubes o f ice 1 Jigger B o u r b o n whisky Use an 8 o u n c e tall glass and fill with car­ bonated water or gingerale. Serve with a small bar spoon in the glass and a piece o f lemon peel if desired. Scotch Highball Rye Highball Made in the same manner as B o u r b o n highball using the respective liquors in place o f bourbon. One b u m p e r at parting ; T h o u g h m a n y H a v e circled the board since we m e t , T h e fullest, the saddest of a n y R e m a i n s to be crowned by us yet. T h e s w e e t n e s s that pleasure has in it Is a l w a y s so slow to c o m e forth T h a t seldom, alas I till the m i n u t e It dies, do w e k n o w half its worth ! B u t oh, m a y o u r life's happy measure Be all of such m o m e n t s made u p ; T h e y ' r e born on the bosom of pleasure, T h e y die in t h e tears of the cup !

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Juleps A lively controversy rages over the g e o ­ graphical origin of the mint j u l e p . Georgia supports her claim with yellowed recipes dat­ ing f r o m the early nineteenth century. But with Kentucky rests undisputed honors f o r having popularized and maintained the great tradition. Perhaps there w e r e two basic recipes, for a m o n g the scores o f juleps offered today by some of the most celebrated authorities on prewar f o r m s there appears but one sharp line of cleavage. On the one side stand those who contend juleps always should be sipped through a straw. A r r a y e d resolutely against this folk­ lore, the Kentuckians insist that a straw or sipper is the ruination o f the South's most famous concoction. Some authorities on the Georgia formula declare that the mint julep lost favor for a time because o f a corruption of the original recipe. " S o m e h o w the idea g o t abroad," says one old report, "that the mint ought to be crushed and shaken up with water and whiskey in equal proportions. Of course, no man could enjoy such a mixture." Fortunately, such points never are settled b y the arbitrary dicta o f authority. There is only one supreme court f o r mint juleps. Let every host, therefore, make his choice, secure in the knowledge that when the drink is well made and appropriately served to a discrimin­ ating company there will b e honor and glory f o r both Georgia and Kentucky—and f o r the remainder of Dixie as well. The julep is peculiarly an American bever­ age, and in many of the southern states is more popular than any other. It was introduced into England b y a Captain Marryatt, nearly 100 years ago, after he had completed an extended j o u r n e y in the United States. The captain [ 74 ]

seemed to have acquired a penchant for the nectareous drink, and in a published work nar­ rating his experiences in the United States he incorporated his own favorite recipe, acquired in his travels here. W i t h the thought that it will be o f interest, the author has reproduced it here in the words o f the Captain himself. "I must descant a little upon the mint julep, as it is, with the thermometer at 1 0 0 ° , one of the most delightful and insinuating potations that ever was invented, and may be drunk with equal satisfaction when the thermometer is as low as 7 0 ° . There are many varieties, such as those composed of claret, Madeira, etc. ; but the ingredients o f the real mint julep are as fol­ lows. I learned h o w to make them, and suc­ ceeded pretty well. Put into a tumbler about a dozen sprigs of the tender shoots o f mint, upon them put a spoonful o f white sugar, and equal proportions o f peach and common bran­ dy, so as to fill it up one-third, or perhaps a little less. Then take rasped or pounded ice, and fill up the tumbler. Epicures rub the lips o f the tumbler with a piece of fresh pineapple, and the tumbler itself is very often incrusted outside with stalactites of ice. A s the ice melts you drink. I once overheard two ladies talking in the next r o o m to me, and one of them said, ' W e l l , if I have a weakness for any one thing, it is f o r a mint julep !'—a very amiable weak­ ness, and proving her good sense and good taste. T h e y are, in fact, like the American ladies, irresistible." Many variations of the original julep have been adopted b y those who prefer the julep, a f e w of which f o l l o w : Mint Julep ( P r o m a formula of 1 8 6 0 ) One tablespoonful of powdered white sugar dissolved in 21/2tablespoonfuls o f water. Three or four sprigs o f fresh mint, and press them [ 75 ]

well in the sugar and water, until the flavor of the mint is extracted ; add one and a half to two and a half ponys o f Cognac brandy, and fill the glass with fine shaved ice, then with­ draw the crushed sprigs of mint and insert fresh mint in the ice with the stems downward, so that the leaves will be above, in the shape of a bouquet ; arrange berries, and small pieces of sliced orange on top in a tasty manner, dash with Jamaica rum, and sprinkle white sugar on top. Serve with a straw. Brandy Julep, Gin Julep and Whisky Julep A r e all made in the same manner as the above mint julep, omitting the f a n c y fixings. Pineapple Julep ( F o r a party of 5 ) Peel, slice, and cut up a ripe pineapple into a glass bowl, add the j u i c e of two oranges, a gill of raspberry syrup, a gill o f maraschino, a gill of old gin, a bottle of sparkling Moselle, and about a pound of pure ice crushed real fine or shaved; mix, ornament with berries in sea­ son, and serve in cocktail glasses.

Lemonades Cordial

Lemonade

Make a plain lemonade ; ornament with fruits in season ; then pour in, slowly, 1/2 p o n y o f the cordial desired. Italian Wine Lemonade 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar in a little water 5 or 6 dashes lemon j u i c e 1/2 Glass o f shaved ice 1 Wineglass sherry, claret, or port wine Fill with water; stir well ; dress the top with fruits and serve with a straw. [ 76 ]

Orgeat Lemonade 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 5 o r 6 dashes lemon j u i c e 1 Wineglass of orgeat 3/4 Glass of shaved ice Fill the glass with w a t e r ; stir well ; dress with fruit and serve with a straw. Wine Lemonade 11/2Tablespoonful sugar Juice o f 1/2 lemon Fill glass 3/4 full with shaved ice A d d a tablespoonful o f raspberry or straw­ berry syrup a dash or t w o o f port wine, dress with fruit, fill with water, stir or shake well be­ fore adding the fruit. Wine Lemonade Fill glass with shaved ice 3 or 4 dashes lemon juice 2 Tablespoonfuls p o w d e r e d sugar 1 Wineglass of any wine desired Fill with water ; shake well, dress with fruits and serve with a straw.

N o t a b l y fond of music, I dote on a sweeter tone Than ever the harp has uttered or ever the lute has known. W h e n I wake at five in the morning, with a feeling in m y head S u g g e s t i v e of mild excesses before I retired to bed ; A n d a small but fierce volcano vexes me sore inside, A n d m y throat and mouth are furred with a fur that seemeth a buffalo hide— H o w gracious t h o s e dews of solace that over m y senses fall A t t h e clink of the ice in the pitcher the boy brings up t h e hall ! — E u g e n e Field

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Miscellaneous Straight and Fancy Drinks Absinthe and Water 1 Jigger o f Absinthe in the bottom of the absinthe glass, then fill the upper bowl of the absinthe glass with fine shaved ice pouring water over the ice and letting it drip slowly through the hole in the bowl containing the ice until the desired quantity has dripped into the absinthe. Do not stir. Special glasses are used f o r serving this drink. American Method of Serving Absinthe Place shaved or cracked ice in the mixing glass 4 or 5 dashes o f gum syrup 1 Jigger of Absinthe 1 Jigger of water Shake the ingredients until the outside of the shaker has a frosty appearance, strain in­ to a large champagne glass and serve. French Method of Serving Absinthe Same as above method for Absinthe and Water. Italian Method of Serving Absinthe 1 P o n y of Absinthe 2 o r 3 pieces o f cracked ice 2 o r 3 dashes of Maraschino 1/2 P o n y of anisette Pour ice water into the glass; stir slowly with a spoon and serve. "Arf and Arf" or Black and Tan ( A l e glass or Bar m u g ) This is a common English drink and means half porter and half ale, but in this country w e use half old and half n e w ale, or porter and stout with ale. It should be served as the in­ dividual desires. [ 78 ]

1/2 1/2 1/2 1/2

Pony Pony Pony Pony

Bachelor's Dream o f Curacao of Maraschino o f Creme de Violet o f pure cream on top

Bishop 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 3/4 Glass shaved o r cracked ice 2 Dashes lemon j u i c e with 2 slices rind 3 Dashes Jamaica rum 1 Jigger Seltzer water Fill the glass with Claret or red Burgundy, shake well, dress with fruit and serve with a straw. Bishop A La Prusse 1 Bottle of Claret 1/2 Pound o f sugar 5 Large bitter oranges Roast the oranges until they are of a pale brown color ; lay them in a tureen, and cover them with the sugar, adding 3 glasses of the claret, cover the tureen and let it stand until the next day. W h e n required for use, place the tureen in a pan o f boiling water, press the oranges with a spoon, and run the juice through a sieve. Boil the remainder of the claret; add the strained juice, and serve w a r m in glasses. Port wine m a y be substituted f o r claret if de­ sired. Bismarck (Use sherry wine glass) 1/2 P o n y o f vanilla cordial 1 Y o l k o f an e g g which should be careful­ ly covered with Benedictine 1 P o n y o f Kummel 2 or 3 drops of bitters The same rule is here applied as in making a Pousse Cafe, viz : K e e p the colors separate. [ 79 ]

Black Stripe 1 Jigger Santa Cruz or Jamaica rum 1 Tablespoonful molasses If served in warm weather, stir in about a pony of water and cool with shaved o r cracked ice. If in cold weather, fill the glass with boil­ ing water, grating a little nutmeg on t o p . Blue Blazer (Use two silver plated mugs, with handles) 1 Jigger Scotch whisky 1 Jigger boiling water Place the whisky and the boiling water in one mug, ignite the liquid and while blazing mix both ingredients b y pouring them rapidly four or five times f r o m one mug to the other. If well done this will have the appearance of a continued stream o f liquid fire. Sweeten with one teaspoonful o f pulverized white sugar, and serve in a small tumbler, with a piece of lemon peel. The "blue blazer" does not have a v e r y eu­ phonious or classic name, but it tastes better to the palate than it sounds to the ear. One gazing f o r the first time upon an experienced artist, c o m p o u n d i n g this beverage, would nat­ urally c o m e to the conclusion that it was a nec­ tar f o r Pluto rather than Bacchus. The novice in mixing this b e v e r a g e should be careful not to scald himself. To b e c o m e proficient in throwing the liquid f r o m one mug t o the other, it will be necessary to practice for some time with cold water.

C o m e ! fill a fresh bumper, F o r w h y should we go W h i l e the nectar still reddens Our cups as t h e y flow. Pour out the rich juices Still bright with the sun. Till o'er the b r i m m e d c r y s t a l T h e rubies shall run. —Oliver Wendell Holmes

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Brace Up 1 Tablespoonful powdered sugar 2 or 3 dashes of bitters 2 o r 3 dashes of lemon j u i c e 1 Dash lime j u i c e 2 Dashes Anisette 1 Egg 1 Jigger o f brandy 1/2 Glass o f shaved ice Shake thoroughly, strain into a large glass and fill with Seltzer. Brace Up Saratoga 1 Tablespoonful sugar 2 or 3 dashes bitters 3 o r 4 dashes lime j u i c e 2 Dashes Absinthe 1 Fresh e g g 1 P o n y brandy 2 Small lumps of ice Shake well, strain, fill with serve.

Seltzer

and

Brandy and Gum 2 Small lumps of ice 2 Dashes o f g u m syrup 1 J i g g e r o f brandy

1 1 1 3

Brandy Champerelle (Small wine glass) P o n y red Curacoa P o n y Anisette or Maraschino P o n y brandy Drops Angostura bitters

Brandy Scaffa (Small wine glass) 1 P o n y Maraschino 1 P o n y Chartreuse ( g r e e n ) 1 P o n y fine old brandy Be careful to keep the different ingredients separate as in a Pousse Cafe. [ 81 ]

Bryan Club Guzzle 1 Small bottle ginger ale 1 P o n y rum Burnt Brandy and Peach 1 Jigger of brandy 2 Lumps of white sugar Burn the brandy and sugar together in a saucer. Place 2 or 3 slices of dried peach in the glass. Extinguish the burning brandy and pour the burned liquid over the slices of peach and serve. This is an old southern preparation and is often used in cases of diarrhoea. Cafe Royal Equal parts of hot strong c o f f e e and apple­ j a c k brandy. Serve in a cup prepared by moistening the rim in lemon j u i c e and dipping in powdered sugar. Champagne Velvet (Large goblet) 1/2 Glass porter 1/2 Glass champagne Stir slowly with a spoon and serve. Clover Leaf 1 White of an e g g Juice of a lime o r 1/4 lemon 3 Dashes Grenadine 1 P o n y dry gin 1 P o n y Italian V e r m o u t h Ice, shake well and strain into a cocktail glass. 1 1 1/3 Mix soda.

Couperee P o n y brandy P o n y red Curacoa Glass ice c r e a m thoroughly and fill the glass with plain Grate a little n u m e g on top and serve. [ 82 ]

Diarrhoea Cure 1 P o n y peach brandy 1 P o n y blackberry brandy 1 Dash Jamaica ginger Stir well with a little nutmeg. English Bishop 1 Quart o f the best port wine 1 Orange with 1 dozen cloves stuck in it Roast the Orange o v e r a fire and when suf­ ficiently brown, cut in quarters and pour over it the Port wine (previously heated) add sugar to taste and let the mixture simmer over the fire for 20 minutes. Fedora 1 P o n y o f the best brandy 1 P o n y o f Curacoa 1/2 P o n y Jamaica rum 1/2 Pony B o u r b o n 1 Tablespoonful sugar dissolved in water 1 Slice o f lemon Fill the tumbler with fine ice ; shake well and dress with berries or small pieces of Orange, serve with a straw. Garden of Eden 1/2 Jigger of apricot brandy 1/2 Jigger of c r e m e de violet Gin and Bitters 5 Parts d r y gin 1 Part orange bitters A d d ice cubes and stir well. Gin and Calamus Steep small pieces o f calamus r o o t in a bot­ tle o f gin until the essence is extracted. Serve straight. Gin and Milk 1 Jigger gin Fill the glass with ice cold milk and serve. [ 83 ]

Gin and Molasses Cover the b o t t o m of glass with gin 2 Teaspoonfuls molasses 1 Jigger o f gin Serve with a spoon in the glass. Gin and Pine Secure some slivers of pine f r o m the center o f a green pine log, steep them in a bottle of gin to extract the flavor ; in about two hours the gin will be ready t o serve. Gin and Tansy This is an old fashioned but excellent tonic, and is prepared by steeping a bunch of tansy in a bottle o f Holland gin. Gin and Wormwood 5 or 6 sprigs of w o r m w o o d placed in a quart bottle o f gin to extract the essence. Golden Slipper (Use wine glass) 1 P o n y of Y e l l o w Chartreuse 1 Y o l k of an e g g 1 P o n y o f Goldwasser This is much relished by the ladies. Be care­ ful when preparing this beverage not to break the yolk of the egg.

1 1 2 1

Hot Grog (American) Lump o f sugar Jigger Jamaica rum Jiggers of hot water Slice of lemon.

Hari-Kari Make a whisky sour large enough to half fill a brandy glass or tumbler when strained and fill with Apollinaris, Seltzer or Vichy to suit, dress with fruits and serve. [ 84 ]

Kaffirs Dream 1 P o n y Sloe gin 1 P o n y rye whisky 1 Dash raspberry syrup 1/2 Tablespoonful sugar 1 Dash cream 1 Egg Shake well and strain into a large wineglass. Khedive 1 P o n y Sloe gin 1 P o n y rye whisky Juice 1/2 lemon with the rind 1 Dash raspberry syrup 1 Tablespoonful sugar 1 Dash cream 1 Egg Shake well, strain into a fizz glass and fill with Seltzer. Knickerbocker 2 or 3 teaspoons raspberry syrup Juice o f a lime or 1/2 lemon, place rind in glass 1 Slice o f pineapple and orange 1 Jigger St. Croix R u m 1 Teaspoonful of Curacoa Fill glass with shaved ice, stir well, adding fruit in season and serve with a straw. Locomotive 2 E g g yolks 1 P o n y honey A little essence o f cloves 1 P o n y Curacoa A d d a pint of high Burgundy made hot, mix well and serve. Some add a tablespoonful of powdered sugar in m i x i n g and afterwards a sprinkle o f cinnamon on t o p . [ 85 ]

Mamie Taylor Fill a tall thin glass with cracked ice 1 J i g g e r Scotch whisky Fill with imported Ginger A l e , stir well and serve. Monopole Special 3 Cubes of ice 1/2 Jigger R o c k and R y e 1/2 Jigger Sloe gin 1/2 P o n y lemon juice Use a tall fizz glass and add ginger ale. Morning Call 1 P o n y lime or lemon j u i c e 1 P o n y Maraschino 1 P o n y Absinthe A d d ice shaved, dress with fruits and serve with a straw. Peach and Honey 1 Tablespoonful h o n e y 1 Jigger Peach brandy Stir well and serve. 1/3 1 1/3 1/3

Powers Cafe Jigger Maraschino Yolk o f an e g g Jigger Benedictine Jigger brandy.

Serve in sherry wine glass being careful not to let the different ingredients run together. Rhine Wine and Seltzer Fill the glass 1/2 full with Rhine wine, bal­ ance with Seltzer. Both the wine and seltzer should be kept on i c e . This is a favorite drink a m o n g the Germans, who much prefer it to lemonade. To make the coming hour o'erflow with joy And pleasure drown the brim. —Shakespeare

[ 86 ]

Rhine Wine Lemonade 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar Juice o f 1/2 lemon A d d a little shaved ice and fill with Rhine wine, dress with fruit in season and serve. Rock and Rye Whisky 1 Teaspoonful rock c a n d y syrup 1 Jigger rye whisky Stir well and serve. This is excellent f o r colds and sore throat. Rocky Mountain Cooler Fill glass 1/2 full with shaved or cracked ice 1 E g g well beaten 1 Teaspoonful sugar Juice o f 1/2 lemon Fill with cider Stir well, grate a little nutmeg on top if de­ sired and serve. Hot Rum 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 1 Small lump of butter 1 Jigger Jamaica rum Fill glass with hot water, stir well and serve ; omit spices. Hot Spiced Rum Made the same as above except that 1 tea­ spoonful of mixed spices, (allspice and cloves) is added b e f o r e adding the hot water. Rum and Sugar 1 or 2 dashes gum syrup 1/4 Glass shaved ice 1 Jigger Jamaica rum Stir well and serve. I drink a s the F a t e s ordain it. Come, fill it, and h a v e done with r h y m e s ; Fill up t h e lonely g l a s s and drain it In m e m o r y of dear old t i m e s . —Thackeray

[ 87 ]

Rumfustian

Beat the yolks of a dozen eggs well and put them into a quart o f strong b e e r ; to this add a pint of gin ; a bottle of sherry wine is put in a saucepan, with a stick of cinnamon, a nutmeg grated; a dozen large lumps of sugar, and the rind of a lemon peeled very thin; when the wine boils, it is poured upon the gin and beer, and the whole is consumed while hot. This is a favoriate among English sportsmen after a day of hunting. Hot Scotch Whisky 1 Jigger of water 1 Jigger o f Scotch whisky 2 Dashes of g o o d wine or brandy Heat the ingredients in a pan, pour into a glass and serve. Scotch and Soda 1 Cube of ice in a highball glass 1 Jigger Scotch whisky Fill with Seltzer or Club soda to taste. Scotch Whisky Skin 1 Jigger Scotch whisky 1/2 Glass hot water Place a piece of lemon peel on top and serve. Shandy Gaff 1/2 Glass o f lager 1/2 Glass ginger ale This is also made with 1/2 ale and 1/2 ginger ale. Sherry and E g g 1 Egg, ice cold 1 Wineglass sherry wine Before dropping in the egg, cover the bot­ tom of the glass with a little sherry, thus pre­ venting the e g g from adhering to the glass. Sherry and Bitters 1 Dash Angostura Bitters 1 Wineglass sherry wine [ 88 ]

Side Car 1 White o f an egg 1 P o n y Cointreau 1 P o n y o f brandy 1 P o n y lemon j u i c e Ice, shake well and strain into a cocktail glass. Sleeper T o a gill of old rum add one ounce o f sugar, two yolks of eggs, and the j u i c e o f 1/2 lemon ; boil 1/2 pint of water with 6 cloves, 6 coriander seeds, and a bit o f cinnamon ; mix all well to­ gether and strain into a tumbler. Sloe Gin Sky Ride 1 Jigger Sloe gin 1/2 Jigger pure cream Juice of 1/2 lemon 1 Teaspoonful sugar Fill mixing glass 2 / 3 full with shaved o r cracked ice, shake well and strain; fill with Seltzer and serve. Soda Nectar Juice of 1 lemon 3/4 Glass Seltzer or Appollinaris Sweeten to taste with p o w d e r e d sugar 1/2 Teaspoonful bi-arbonate of soda Mix the lemon, water and sugar together, then add the bi-carbonate o f soda, stir well and drink while it is foaming. Soudan 1 Dash orange bitters 1 Dash Angostura bitters 1 Jigger B o u r b o n whisky Stinger (This is an old favorite) Fill shaker 1/3 full shaved ice 1 Pony Cognac brandy 1 P o n y white Creme de Menthe Frap well and serve in a cocktail glass. [ 89 ]

Stone Fence 1 Jigger Bourbon whisky or apple jack 2 or 3 lumps of ice Fill with cider, stir well and serve. Stone Wall 1/4 Tablespoonful powdered sugar 3 or 4 spoonfuls shaved ice 1 Jigger whisky 1 Small bottle of plain soda Vermouth Cassis (This is a very popular French drink) 2 or 3 cubes o f ice 1 Pony Creme de Cassis 1 Jigger French Vermouth Add a piece o f lemon peel and fill with Selt­ zer. Whisky and Cider 1 Jigger of whisky Fill with cider, stir well and serve. Whisky Lemonade Float 1 Glass plain lemonade 1 Maraschino cherry Float 1 j i g g e r of Bourbon on top. White Cap 1 Pony Benedictine Float 1/2 pony of pure cream on top. White Lion Fill glass with shaved ice 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar, dissolved Juice 1/2 lemon and place the rind in the glass 1 Teaspoonful raspberry syrup 1 Jigger St. Croix rum 1/2 Pony of Curacoa Mix well, dress with fruits and serve. [ 90 ]

White Tiger's Milk (This is an Old English Favorite) 1 Wineglass of apple j a c k 1 Wineglass of peach brandy 1/2 Teaspoonful of aromatic tincture * Sweeten with white sugar to taste.. The white of an egg beaten to a stiff foam 1 Quart of pure sweet milk Pour in the mixed liquors to the milk, stir­ ring all the while till all is well mixed, then sprinkle with nutmeg. * A r o m a t i c Tincture—Take o f ginger, cin­ namon, orange peel, each one ounce ; valerian 1/2 ounce, alcohol 2 quarts, macerate in a closed vessel f o r 14 days, then filter through unsized paper. White Top 1 P o n y Creme de Menthe 1 P o n y Creme de Cacao Serve with a little cream on top. Widow's Dream 1 Jigger o f pure cream 1 Egg 1 P o n y of Benedictine Shake well, strain and serve. White Plush 2 / 3 Jigger rye whisky 1/3 Jigger Maraschino l Egg 1/2 Pint milk Shake well, strain into a thin glass and serve.

W h e n your heels hit hard and your head feels queer, A n d y o u r t h o u g h t s rise up like t h e foam on beer, A n d your knees get weak and your voice g e t s strong, A n d you laugh all night at some darn fool song. T h e n you're drunk, by g o s h ! you're drunk.

[ 91 ]

Mulls W i t h respect to the preparation o f Mulls, it is difficult to give the exact proportions of in­ gredients such as sugar and spices, as what might suit one person would be quite distaste­ ful to another. General information is all that it seems practical to deal with here and some f e w of the old recipes, you may change them to suit your individual taste. Boil the spice in water until the flavor is extracted, then add the wine and sugar, and bring the whole to the boiling point. Strips of crisp, dry toast or biscuits are excellent to serve with Mulls. The spices usually used for mulled wine are cloves, grated nutmeg, and cinnamon or m a c e . A n y kind o f wine may be mulled, but port or claret are those usually selected f o r the pur­ pose ; and the latter requires a larger propor­ tion of sugar. Care should be taken that the vessel used to boil the wine in is exceptionally clean. Mulled Wine (Plain) T o e v e r y pint o f wine allow : 1 Small tumblerful of water. Sugar and spice to taste. Mulled Wine With Egg 1 Quart of wine 1 Pint o f water 1 Tablespoonful of allspice, and nutmeg to taste Boil them together a f e w minutes; beat up six eggs with sugar to y o u r taste ; p o u r the boil­ ing wine on the eggs, stirring it all the time. Be careful not to pour the eggs into the wine or they will curdle. [ 92 ]

Mulled Wine ( W i t h the Whites of E g g s ) Dissolve 1 lb. sugar in two pints o f hot water, to which add two and a half pints o f g o o d sher­ r y wine, and let the mixture be set upon the fire until it is almost ready to boil. Beat the whites of twelve e g g s to a froth, and pour into them the hot mixture, stirring rapidly. A d d a little nutmeg. Another method is t o substitute the yolks o f the eggs f o r whites, preparing the same as above.

Negus Negus is a beverage consisting o f wine, wat­ er, sugar, nutmeg and lemon j u i c e and is so called from Colonel Francis Negus, (d 1 7 3 2 ) who claimed to be the inventor of the formula. It is very much a favorite in England and has been so for more than 200 years. Port Wine Negus T o every pint of wine a l l o w : 1 Quart boiling water 1/4 P o u n d of loaf sugar 1 Lemon Grated nutmeg to taste Put the wine, in a j u g or earthen vessel, rub some lumps of sugar on the lemon rind until all the y e l l o w part of the skin is absorbed, then squeeze the juice f r o m the lemon and strain it. A d d the sugar and lemon juice to the port wine, with the grated nutmeg; pour over it the boil­ ing water, c o v e r the j u g , and when the bever­ age has cooled a little, it will be fit f o r use. Negus m a y also be made o f sherry, or any oth­ er sweet wine, but it is usually made of port. Here's to a temperance supper. W i t h water in glasses tall, A n d coffee and tea t o end w i t h — A n d me not there at all.

[ 93 ]

Soda Negus 1/2 Pint of port wine 4 Lumps of sugar 3 Cloves Grated nutmeg to cover a dime Place the ingredients in a saucepan and warm it well but do not permit it to boil, pour it into a bowl and into it pour a bottle o f plain soda water. This makes a delicious and effer­ vescing negus.

Pousse Cafes The name of this drink is derived f r o m the French words pousser (to push) and c a f e (cof­ fee). Literally translated meaning to push c o f f e e . It is usually served after c o f f e e and consists of several different cordials or li­ queurs o f different specific gravities. It is usually served in a tall cordial glass, sometimes a sherry wine glass, and the ingredients added carefully so that each floats on top of the one added b e f o r e it. American Pousse Cafe 1/5 Maraschino 1/5 Curacoa 1/5 Chartreuse ( g r e e n ) 1/5 Anisette 1/5 Brandy Keep the colors separate. Burn, setting fire to the brandy. American Flag Pousse Cafe 1/3 Grenadine 1/3 Creme De Menthe (white) 1/3 Creme De Violette 1/4 1/4 1/4 1/4

Angel's Kiss Pousse Cafe Creme de Cacao Prunelle Creme de Violette Pure Sweet Cream [ 94 ]

French Pousse Cafe ( S h e r r y wine glass) 1/4 Glass Maraschino Add equal parts Raspberry syrup; Vanilla cordial ; Curacao ; Chartreuse and brandy in or­ der, sufficient to fill the glass. Jersey Lily Pousse Cafe 1/2 Brandy ( C o g n a c ) 1/2 Chartreuse Paree Pousse Cafe 1/3 Benedictine 1/3 Curacoa 1/3 Kirschwasser

1/3 1/3 1/3

Parisian Pousse Cafe No. 1 (Sherry wine glass) Curacoa Chartreuse Brandy

Parisian Pousse Cafe No. 2 (Sherry wine glass) 1/2 Maraschino 1/4.Kirschwasser 1/4 Chartreuse A d d a little brandy on top. Pousse L'Amour (Sherry wine glass) 1/2 Maraschino Carefully add the yolk of one egg 1/4 Vanilla cordial 1/4 Old Brandy Santina's New Orleans Pousse Cafe (Sherry wine glass) 1/2 Pony Brandy 1/2 Pony Maraschino 1/2 Pony Curacoa 1/2 P o n y Jamaica Rum This delicious drink is f r o m a recipe b y Santina, proprietor o f "Santina's S a l o o n , " a cele­ brated Spanish Cafe, in N e w Orleans, prior to the Civil W a r . [ 95 ]

Punches (Individual) (Punches in punch bowl quantities f o u n d on page 1 0 6 )

will

be

Punches vary so much in their composition that it is impossible to give general instruc­ tions as to h o w to make them but rather the person should rely on and f o l l o w the recipe f o r the particular punch he desires. Agler's Punch 1 Egg 1 Dash raspberry syrup 1 Tablespoon sugar Fill with milk, shake well, strain into a fizz glass, grate a little nutmeg on t o p and serve. Arrack Punch 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar in a little water 1 or 2 dashes lemon j u i c e 1 Jigger Batavia arrack 1/2 Glass shaved ice Shake well, dress with fruits and serve with a straw. Arrack Punch (Hot) 1 Teaspoonful p o w d e r e d sugar 1 o r 2 dashes lemon j u i c e 1 Jigger arrack Fill with hot water, stir well, grate a little nutmeg on t o p and serve. Astor Punch 1/2 Jigger White Creme de Menthe A little shaved ice in the goblet 1/2 Jigger Sloe gin on t o p Dress with fruit and serve. At all your feasts, remember too. When cups are sparkling: to the brim That there is one who drinks to you, And oh, as warmly drink to him.

[ 96 ]

Boating Punch 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar 1 or 2 dashes lemon juice 1 or 2 dashes lime juice Add a little water and dissolve Fill glass with shaved ice Add 1 jigger rum 1 Pony brandy Stir with a spoon, dress with fruit and serve with a straw. This punch may be bottled for the days picnic or outing.

1 2 1 1

Boland Punch (Hot) Lump sugar Jiggers boiling water Jigger Scotch whisky Pony ginger ale

Bourbon or Rye Punch Juice of 1/2. lemon 1 Teaspoonful sugar 1 Jigger Bourbon or Rye whisky Shake well, strain into a goblet with fine ice, dress with fruits and serve. Brandy Milk Punch 1 Jigger of brandy 1 Dash of Jamaica rum 1 Teaspoonful sugar Add milk to taste, shake well, strain adding a little nutmeg on top. Brandy Punch A little fine cracked ice 1 Jigger of brandy 1/2 Teaspoonful of sugar 2 Dashes raspberry syrup 1 Dash Maraschino Dress with mint, stir well and add a little Seltzer. [ 97 ]

Brandy Punch No. 2 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar dissolved in a little water 1/2 Small lemon 1/2 Pony St. Croix rum 1 Jigger brandy 1 Piece o f pineapple 1 or 2 slices of orange Fill glass with shaved ice, shake well, dress with the fruits and serve with a straw. Claret Punch 3 Teaspoonfuls p o w d e r e d sugar 1 Slice lemon 2 Slices orange Fill glass with shaved ice. Pour in Claret wine, shake well, dress with fruit in season and serve with a straw. Cohassett Punch 1 Jigger V e r m o u t h 1 Jigger Medford rum 1 Dash orange bitters 2 or 3 dashes gum syrup Stir with j u i c e of 1/2 lemon (muddled) 1/4 glass shaved ice. Serve with preserved peach. Cosmopolitan Claret Punch 1/2 Glass shaved ice 1/2 Pony brandy 1 Teaspoonful p o w d e r e d sugar Fill with claret to taste Shake well, dress with berries and fruit and serve. Curacoa Punch 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar 3 or 4 dashes o f lemon j u i c e 1 Jigger brandy 1 P o n y ( r e d ) Curacoa 1/2 Pony Jamaica rum Fill with shaved ice, dress with fruits and serve with a straw. [ 98 ]

Milk Punch 1/3 Glass shaved ice 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 1/2 Pony brandy 1/2 P o n y St. Croix rum 1/2 Pony Jamaica rum Fill with fresh milk, mix well together, strain and serve with a little nutmeg on t o p . Milk Punch (Hot) 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar 1 P o n y St. Croix rum 1 P o n y brandy Fill the glass with hot milk Mix well with a spoon, grate nutmeg on top, and serve. A l w a y s mix with a spoon, never use the shaker to this beverage. Millionaire Punch Juice of 1 lemon 1 Dash of lime juice 1 Teaspoonful sugar 1 Jigger B o u r b o n whisky 2 Dashes Grenadine Shake well, strain into a g o b l e t and dress with fruits. A d d 1 dash of Creme de Menthe on top. Mississippi Punch 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar in a p o n y of water 2 or 3 dashes lemon j u i c e 1/2 Pony B o u r b o n whisky 1/2 P o n y Jamaica rum 1/2 P o n y of brandy Fill goblet with shaved ice, dress with pieces o f orange or pineapple. Here's to mine and here's to thine! Now's the time to clink it ! Here's a flagon of good old wine, And here we are to drink it. —Richard Hovey

[ 101 ]

Orchard Punch 2 Tablespoonfuls orchard syrup 2 or 3 dashes of lime or lemon j u i c e 1/2 Pony pineapple syrup Fill glass with shaved ice 1 Jigger California brandy Stir well, dress with fruits, dash with a little port wine and serve with a straw. Orgeat Punch 1/2 Pony Orgeat syrup 1 Jigger of brandy 4 or 5 dashes lemon j u i c e Fill glass with shaved ice Shake well, dress with fruits, top o f f with a dash of port wine and serve with a straw. Peach Brandy Punch Juice of 1/2 lemon 1 Teaspoonful sugar 1 Jigger Peach brandy Shake well, strain into a g o b l e t with fine ice and dress with fruits. Philadelphia Punch Fill glass with shaved ice 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar 1 or 2 dashes lemon juice 1 Jigger St. Croix rum 1 P o n y old brandy Stir well, dress with fruits and serve with a straw. Planter's Punch Juice of 1/2 lime 1 Teaspoonful sugar 1 Jigger Jamaica rum 1 Dash cocktail bitters Add shaved or cracked ice. shake well, strain into a large glass and fill with Seltzer. [ 102 ]

Plymouth Punch (Serve in Old Style Champagne glasses) 1/4 L e m o n peel muddled in glass 1/2 Tablespoonful sugar 1/3 Jigger Sloe gin 2 / 3 Jigger R y e whisky Stir well with a spoon, strain into glass c o n ­ taining 1/2 fresh p e a c h ; add 2 dashes of M e d ford rum on top and serve. Port Wine Punch 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 1/2 Tablespoonful orchard syrup 1 or 3 dashes lemon j u i c e 1 1/2 Wineglass port wine Fill with shaved ice, stir well, dress with fruits in season and serve with a straw. Roman Punch Glass shaved ice 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar 2 or 3 dashes lemon juice Juice o f 1/2 orange 1/4 Pony Curacoa 1 P o n y brandy 1/2 Pony Jamaica rum Stir well, dash with Port wine, dress with fruits, and serve with a straw. 1/2

Rum Punch Juice o f 1/2 lime or lemon 1 Teaspoonful sugar 1 Jigger Jamaica rum 1 Dash brandy Shake well, strain into a g o b l e t and with fruits.

dress

Sauterne Punch Is c o m p o u n d e d the same as Claret Punch ex­ cept that Sauterne wine is substituted for Clar­ et. [103]

Scotch Whisky Punch Juice o f 1/2 lemon 1 Teaspoonful sugar 1 Jigger Scotch whisky Shake, strain into a goblet, dress with fruits and serve.

2 2 1 1

Second Regiment Punch Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar or 3 dashes lemon j u i c e Jigger brandy Jigger Catawba wine

Flavor with raspberry syrup. Fill glass with fine ice, shake well, dress with fruits, dash with Jamaica rum and serve with a straw. Sherry Wine Punch Fill glass with shaved ice 1 Wineglass sherry 2 Teaspoonfuls p o w d e r e d sugar 2 or 3 dashes lemon j u i c e Stir well, dress with fruits and top o f f with a little Claret. Serve with a straw. St. Charles Punch 2 Teaspoonfuls p o w d e r e d sugar Juice o f 1/4 lemon 1 Wineglass port wine 1 P o n y brandy Fill with shaved ice, shake well, dress with fruits in season and serve with a straw. St. Croix Rum Punch 2 Teaspoonfuls p o w d e r e d sugar 3 or 4 dashes lemon j u i c e 1/4 P o n y Jamaica rum 1 Jigger St Croix rum Fill with shaved i c e , dress with fruit berries and serve with a straw. [104]

and

1/4 1 1 2 2 1

Tip Top Punch Glass shaved ice Pony of b r a n d y Teaspoonful p o w d e r e d sugar Slices pineapple Slices orange or 2 dashes lemon j u i c e

Fill with Champagne, stir well, dress with fruits and serve with a straw. Vanilla Punch 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar in a little water 3 or 4 dashes lemon j u i c e 2 or 3 dashes Curacoa 1 Jigger brandy 1 P o n y Vanilla cordial Fill with shaved ice, mix well, dress with fruits and berries and serve with a straw. Y o u can flavor with a little vanilla extract in place of the cordial. Whisky Punch (Hot) Juice of 1/2 lemon 3 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar 1 Wineglass hot water 1 Jigger Scotch o r Irish whisky Fill glass with boiling water and place on t o p a thin slice of lemon or a piece of the rind. Some grate a little nutmeg on t o p .

Give him s t r o n g drink until he wink, T h a t ' s sinking in despair, A n ' liquor guid to fire his bluid, That's p r e s t wi' grief an' care ; T h e r e let him brouse, and deep carouse. W i ' b u m p e r s flowin' o'er, Till he f o r g e t s his loves or debts, A n ' m i n d s his griefs no m o r e . — ( B u r n s ) Solomon's Proverbs

[105]

Punches (In Punch Bowl Quantities) Then to this flowing bowl did I adjourn, M y lip the secret well of life to learn ; A n d lip to lip it m u r m u r ' d — " W h i l e y o u live, Drink ! f o r once dead y o u never shall return." —Omar Kkayyam Punches were a great favorite in the days o f old, being served regularly in the most exclu­ sive bars, and the hostess entertaining a num­ ber o f people found them indispensable. T o make punch of any sort in perfection, the ambrosiat essence of the lemon must be ex­ tracted b y rubbing lumps of sugar on the rind, which breaks the delicate little vessels that con­ tain the essence, and at the same time absorbs it. This and making the mixture sweet and strong, using tea instead of water, and thor­ oughly amalgamating all the compounds so that the taste o f neither the bitter, the sweet, the spirit, nor the element, shall be perceptable one over the other, is the grand secret on­ ly to be acquired by practice. In making hot toddy, or hot punch, y o u must put in the spirits b e f o r e the water: in cold punch, g r o g , etc., the other w a y round. A s scarcely two persons make punch alike, the precise portions of spirit and water, or even of the acidity and sweetness, can have n o exact rule. African Hot Punch Make 1 gallon of strong black c o f f e e , place 4 pounds of sugar into a large bowl, then pour 4 bottles of brandy and 2 bottles of Jamaica rum over the sugar and set the liquid on fire, let the sugar dissolve then pour in the black c o f f e e ; stir well and you will have an excellent hot punch to serve 20 to 25 people. [106]

Ale Punch A quart of mild ale, a wineglass of white wine, one o f brandy, one o f capillaire, the j u i c e of a lemon, a roll of the peel pared thin, nutmeg grated on the top and a bit of toasted bread. Apple Punch Lay in a china bowl slices o f apples and lem­ ons alternately, each layer being thickly strewn with powdered sugar. Pour over the fruit, when the bowl is half filled, a bottle of claret; cover, and let it stand f o r six hours. Strain through a muslin bag and serve. Arrack Punch 3 Wineglasses A r r a c k 2 Wineglasses rum Sweeten to taste Juice o f 2 lemons 6 Wineglasses water Arrack Punch Steep in one quart of old Batavia Arrack, six lemons cut in thin slices, f o r six hours. A t the end of that time the lemon must be re­ moved without squeezing. Dissolve one pound of loaf sugar in one quart of boiling water, and add the hot solution to the arrack. Let it stand to cool. This is a delightful liqueur and should be used as such. Balaklava Nectar ( F o r a party of 10 or 1 2 ) Thinly peel the rind of 1/2 lemon, shred it fine, and put it in a punch bowl, add 4 tablespoonfuls o f powdered sugar and the juice o f 1 lemon. Add 1 gill o f Maraschino, 2 bottles of soda, 2 bottles of claret wine, 2 bottles o f Champagne. Stir well together and dress the top with fruits. [107]

Barbadoes Punch T o each glass of brandy punch, add a tablespoonful o f guava jelly. •Bimbo Punch B i m b o punch is made in the same manner as A r r a c k punch No. 2, e x c e p t that Cognac bran­ dy is substituted in place o f arrack. Bombay Punch R u b the sugar over the lemons, until it has absorbed all the y e l l o w part o f the skins of 6 lemons, then put in the punch bowl. 1 Pound loaf sugar 2 Bottles of Seltzer 1 Pineapple sliced 6 Oranges sliced 2 Lemons sliced 1 Pint strawberries Mix the above well and add 4 Bottles Champagne 1 Bottle French brandy 1 Bottle Sherry wine 1 Bottle Madeira wine 1 Gill Maraschino Stir well with a ladle, surround the bowl with ice, and serve in such manner that each person will have some of the fruit. Brandy Punch ( F o r a party of 2 0 ) 1 Gallon of water 3 Quarts of brandy 1/2 Pint o f Jamaica rum 2 Pounds of sugar Juice o f 6 lemons 3 Oranges sliced 1 Pineapple, sliced and quartered 1 Gill o f Curacoa 2 Gills raspberry syrup Ice, and add berries in season. serve. [108]

Mix and

Brandy and Rum Hot Punch ( F o r a party o f 15) 1 Quart o f Jamaica rum 1 Quart o f Cognac brandy 1 Pound white loaf sugar 4 Lemons 3 Quarts o f boiling water 1 Teaspoonful of nutmeg R u b the sugar o v e r the lemons until it has absorbed all the yellow part of the skins, then put the sugar into a punch-bowl; add the in­ gredients well together, pour o v e r them the boiling water, stirring well ; add the rum, bran­ dy, and nutmeg. Mix thoroughly, serve. Burgundy Cup (Serves 24 glasses) 3 Quarts o f Burgundy wine 1 Wineglass brandy 1 Wineglass rum 1 Wineglass simple syrup 2 Quarts o f White R o c k 1 Wineglass Curacoa 1 Orange cut fine 1 Lemon, sliced thin and quartered 2 Dozen Maraschino cherries Mix thoroughly, place a large piece o f ice in the bowl and serve in champagne cups. Burgundy Punch (Serves 12 glasses) 1 Quart Burgundy wine 1 P o n y Maraschino 1 P o n y brandy 1 P o n y Chartreuse 1 Pint Apollinaris water Juice o f 1/2 lemon 1 Wineglass simple syrup 3 Slices o f orange 4 Slices o f lemon 4 Slices o f pineapple quartered 3 slices o f cucumber rind 10 Green grapes o r olives Ice, mix well and serve. [109]

English Milk Punch ( F o r bottling) Juice of 4 lemons Rind of 2 lemons 1/2 Pound white sugar dissolved in hot water 1 Pineapple, peeled, sliced and crushed 6 Cloves 20 Coriander seeds 1 Small stick o f cinnamon 1 Pint o f brandy 1 Pint of Jamaica rum 1 Gill o f Batavia arrack 1 Pint o f strong green tea 1 Quart of boiling water The boiling water to be added last ; cork this down to prevent evaporation, and allow these ingredients to steep f o r at least six hours ; then add a quart of hot milk and the juice o f two lemons; mix, and filter through a j e l l y b a g ; and when the punch has passed bright, put it away in tight-corked bottles. This punch is intended to b e iced f o r drinking. Canadian Punch 2 Quarts o f rye whisky 1 Pint o f Jamaica rum 6 Lemons, sliced 1 Sliced pineapple 4 Quarts of water Sweeten to taste and ice before serving. Century Club Punch 1 Pint o f Santa Cruz rum 1 Pint o f Jamaica rum 5 Pints of water Lemons and sugar to taste. If on m y theme I rightly think, There are f i v e reasons w h y I drink,— Good wine, a friend, because I'm dry, Or lest I should be b y and by, Or any other reason why.

[110]

Champagne Cup 2 Wineglasses o f pineapple syrup 4 to 6 sprigs of green balm 1 Quart o f Curacoa 1 Pint of Chartreuse ( g r e e n ) 1 Quart o f fine old Cognac 1 Quart o f Tokay 4 Bottles o f Apollinaris 6 Oranges and 2 lemons, sliced Stir well together, let it stand two hours, strain into a bowl and add : 1/2 Pineapple, sliced 1 Pint strawberries 6 Bottles of champagne Place the bowl in the ice, sweeten to taste, stir well and serve. Champagne Punch 1 Quart o f Champagne 1/4 Pound o f sugar 1 Orange, sliced Juice o f 1 lemon 3 Slices o f pineapple 1 Wineglass raspberry or strawberry syrup. Ornament with fruits in season, and serve in champagne goblets. Cider Punch On the thin rind o f 1/2 lemon pour 1/2 pint of sherry ; add a quarter pound of sugar, the j u i c e of a lemon, a little grated nutmeg, and a quart of cider; mix it well, and, if possible, place it on ice. Before serving, add a wineglass o f bran­ dy and a f e w pieces of cucumber rind. The peer I don't e n v y , I g i v e him his bow ; I scorn not the peasant, tho' ever so low ; But a club of good fellows, like those that are here, And a bottle like this, are m y glory and care. — R o b e r t Burns

[111]

Claret Cup 10 to 12 lumps o f sugar 1 Bottle Apollinaris or Seltzer 2 Lemons, 2 oranges, 1/2 pineapple, sliced 2 Wineglasses Maraschino Mix well with a ladle and place on ice and when ready to serve add : 4 Bottles of fine claret 1 Bottle of Champagne or other sparkling wine. Mix thoroughly, ornament with berries and serve. Claret Punch (See Imperial Punch) Claret and Champagne Cup ( F o r a party of 2 0 ) This beverage was a favorite in old Russia where f o r many years it enjoyed a high reputa­ tion among the aristocracy. 3 Bottles of claret wine 3 Gills of red Curacoa 1 Pint of sherry wine 1 Pint o f French brandy 1 Gill ratafia of raspberries 3 Oranges and 1 lemon, sliced Some sprigs o f green balm and b o r a g e 2 Bottles German Seltzer 3 Bottles of soda Stir well and sweeten with Capillaire or pounded sugar; let it stand one hour ; strain it and ice it well ; serve in small glasses. The same f o r champagne c u p : champagne instead of claret; noyua instead o f ratafia. Cold Punch ( A l s o known as Cold Ruby Punch) 1 Quart Arrack 1 Quart port wine 1 Quart water, o r green tea 1 Pound loaf sugar Juice o f 8 lemons Mix, ice and serve. [112]

Crimean Cup A La Marmora 1 Pint o r Orgeat syrup 1/3 Pint o f Cognac 1 Gill Maraschino 1 Gill Jamaica rum 1 Bottle of champagne 1 Bottle of soda 2 L e m o n s and 2 oranges, sliced thin, a f e w thin slices pineapple Add sugar to taste, stir well with a ladle and place in a bowl with shaved ice and serve. Duke of Norfolk Punch ( F o r bottling) In 10 quarts of French Brandy place the peels of 15 lemons and 15 oranges, pared so thin that not the least o f the white is left. In­ fuse 12 hours. Have ready 15 quarts o f cold water that has been boiled; add to it 7 1/2 pounds of double refined sugar ; and when well mixed, pour it upon the brandy and peels, add­ ing the j u i c e of the oranges and of 12 lemons ; mix well, strain through a fine hair-sieve, into a very clean barrel that has held spirits, add 2 quarts o f fresh milk. Stir and then bung it close ; let it stand 6 weeks in a warm cellar; bottle the liquor f o r use observing great care that the bottles are perfectly clean and dry, and the corks o f the best quality and well put in. This liquor will keep f o r many years and improves with age.

Cold w a t e r is t h e best of drinks, A n d fit for prince or king, B u t who am I t h a t I should take T h e b e s t of e v e r y t h i n g . L e t princes revel at t h e p u m p . K i n g s with the tap m a k e free ; C h a m p a g n e or gin or even beer Is good e n o u g h f o r m e .

[113]

Dry Punch (Another of Santina's famouse recipes) 2 Gallons o f brandy 1 Gallon of water 1/2 Gallon of tea 1 Pint o f Jamaica rum 1/2 Pint Curacoa Juice of 6 lemons 11/2Pounds of white sugar Mix thoroughly, and strain, as already stated the quantities of sugar and lemon juice may be varied to taste. Bottle and keep on ice for three or four days, and it will be ready f o r use, although the longer it stands, the better it gets. Empire City Punch Rub the peel of 4 fine lemons, and also the peel of 2 oranges, with some of the sugar until it has absorbed all the yellow part of the lemon and orange. 11/2Pounds of lump sugar 1 Pineapple cut in slices 12 Oranges, sliced 1 Pint of strawberries 2 Bottles Apollinaris water Mix the above ingregients and add : 1 Wineglass Maraschino 1 Wineglass Curacoa ( r e d ) 1 Wineglass Benedictine 1 P o n y Jamaica rum 1 Bottle French brandy 6 Bottles of Champagne 4 Bottles Tokay 2 Bottles Madeira 4 Bottles o f Chateau Margaux Mix all together with a ladle and strain through a sieve into a clean bowl and surround the bowl with ice. Dress the edge with leaves, and fruit in a f a n c y manner. [114]

English Milk Punch To 2 quarts of water add one quart of milk. Mix 1 quart o f Jamaica rum with two of French brandy, and add this to the milk, stirring it for a short time ; let it stand f o r an hour, but do not permit any one of delicate appetite to see the melange in its present state, as the sight might create a distaste f o r the punch when per­ fected. Filter through blotting-paper into bot­ tles; and should you find that the liquid is cloudy, you may clarify it by adding a small portion o f isinglass to each bottle. Glasgow Punch Melt lump-sugar in cold water, with the juice of a couple of lemons, passed through a fine hair strainer. This is known as sherbet, and must be well mixed. Then add 1 part Jamaica rum to five parts of sherbet. Cut a couple o f limes in half, and run each half rapid­ ly around the edge o f the bowl, gently squeez­ ing in some of the delicate acid and serve. Gothic Punch Four bottles still catawba ; one bottle claret, three oranges, or one pinapple, ten tablespoonfuls of sugar. Let this mixture stand in a very cold place, or in ice, for one hour or more, then add one bottle of champagne and serve. Grandeur Punch 11/2Pounds loaf sugar 6 Lemons, sliced 1 Gill Anisette 1 Bottle Kummel 6 Oranges, sliced 1 Bottle Kirschwasser 1/3 Gallon water 6 Bottles of Nordhauser Brantwein 1 Gill o f Curacoa ( r e d ) Stir well with a ladle surround the bowl with ice, and serve in a wine-glass. [115]

International Club Punch 2 Bottles of champagne I Bottle of pale sherry 1 Bottle of Cognac 1 Bottle of Sauterne 1 Pineapple, sliced and cut in small pieces 3 Lemons, sliced Sweeten to taste, mix, cool and serve. Kaiser Wilhelm's Potsdam Punch (One o f the most celebrated festive drinks of the continent b e f o r e the W o r l d W a r was the hot wine-and-rum punch served b y Kaiser Wilhelm in Potsdam Castle. Here is an official transcript of that famous concoction, directly from the imperial archives in Berlin.) Heat two quarts of water with f o u r pounds of sugar to boiling point. A d d four bottles o f the finest very old Rhine wine and a bottle o f old rum. Heat the whole again to boiling point and after the kettle has been taken f r o m the fire, reduce the alcoholic content of the liquid by burning it. Strain the w h o l e through a cloth into a bowl adding the juice o f t w o lemons. The punch m a y be served hot or cold. The principal difficulty in connection with this punch is in obtaining Rhine wine f r o m the best and oldest vintages. La Patria Punch ( F o r a party of 2 0 ) 3 1 6 1

Bottles of iced Champagne Bottle of Cognac Oranges Pineapple

Slice the pineapples and oranges into a bowl, pour the C o g n a c o v e r them, and let them steep f o r a couple of hours, then add the champagne and serve immediately. [116]

Light Guard Punch ( F o r a party of 2 0 ) 3 Bottles of champagne 1 Bottle of pale sherry 1 Bottle of C o g n a c 1 Bottle o f Sauterne 1 Pineapple, sliced 4 Lemons, sliced Sweeten to taste, mix in a punch-bowl, cool with a large lump of ice, and serve immediately. May Wine Punch One or two bunches o f w o o d r u f f , cut into small pieces. Place in a large bar glass and fill up the balance with the best French brandy, cover it and let it stand f o r two or three hours, until the essence o f the w o o d r u f f is thoroughly extracted; cover the bottom of a large bowl with loaf sugar and pour over it 4 to 6 bottles of plain soda. A d d 6 oranges, sliced ; 1/2 pine­ apple, sliced and sufficient berries and grapes ; 8 bottles of Moselle o r Rhine w i n e ; 1 bottle of Veure Clicquot. Then add the w o o d r u f f , and brandy, etc., into the bowl, stirring well. Serve in wine-glasses so that each glass will contain a little of all the fruits. Moselle Wine Cup (Serves 12 glasses) 1 Quart of Moselle wine 1 Jigger Maraschino syrup 1 Wineglass of brandy 3 Pints imported soda water 5 Slices of orange 5 Slices of pineapple 5 Slices o f pear 5 Slices of lemon, cut thin 3 Pieces cucumber rind 8 Grapes ( n o t c o n c o r d ) Mix well in a pitcher that contains a large piece of ice. [117]

Nectar Punch Infuse the peel of 15 lemons in a pint and a half of rum f o r forty-eight hours, add two quarts o f cold water with three pints o f rum, exclusive of the pint and a half ; also the juice of the lemons, with two quarts of boiling hot milk, and one grated n u t m e g ; pour the milk over the above, cover it close and let it stand f o r twenty-four hours ; add two pounds and a half of loaf-sugar; then strain it through a flannel b a g until quite fine, and bottle f o r use. May be served as soon as bottled. Nonsuch Punch 6 Bottles o f claret 6 Bottles o f soda water 1 Bottle o f brandy 1 Bottle o f sherry 1/2 Pint of green tea Juice of three lemons 1/2 Pineapple sliced and cut in small pieces. Sweeten with white sugar to taste. Strain and bottle immediately. K e e p for one month b e f o r e using. Nuremburg Punch ( F o r a party o f 1 5 ) Three-quarters of a pound of loaf sugar, press upon it, through muslin, the j u i c e of two or more g o o d sized oranges ; add a little of the peel, cut very thin, pour upon it a quart of boiling water, the third part o f that quantity o f Batavia Arrack, and a bottle of hot, but not boiling, red or white French wine—red is pref­ erable. Stir all together. This is an excellent punch when cold and will improve with age. There There There There

are are are are

no no no no

s o r r o w s wine cannot allay. sins w i n e cannot wash a w a y . riddles wine k n o w s not to read. debts wine is too poor t o pay, — L e Gallienne

[118]

Orange Punch ( F r o m a recipe in the " B o r d e a u x Wine and Liquor G u i d e " of 75 years a g o . ) The juice of 3 or 4 oranges The peel o f one or 2 oranges 3/4 Pound of lump sugar 31/2Pints o f boiling water Infuse for half an hour, strain, add 1/2 pint of porter; 3/4 to 1 pint each, of rum and brandy ( o r either alone 11/2to 2 p i n t s ) , and add m o r e warm water and sugar, if desired weaker or sweeter. A pony glass of Curacoa, noyau, or maraschino improves it. A g o o d lemon punch may be made by substituting lemons in place of the oranges. Oxford Punch ( A favorite at Oxford University, England) Rub the rind of three fresh lemons with loafsugar till you have extracted a portion o f the juice ; cut the peel finely from two more lemons, and two sweet oranges. Use the j u i c e of six lemons, and four sweet oranges. A d d 1 pint of calf's-foot j e l l y ; place all together in a j u g or jar, stirring well together. Pour in two quarts o f water boiling hot, and set the j a r on a radiator f o r twenty minutes. Strain the li­ quor through a fine sieve into a large bowl ; pour in a bottle of capillaire (1 p i n t ) , half a pint of sherry, a pint of Cognac brandy, a pint of old Jamaica rum, and a quart of orange shrub ; stir well as you pour in the spirit. If you find it requires sweetening, add sugar to y o u r taste. Philadelphia Fishhouse Punch 2 1/2 Wineglasses lemon juice 3/4 Pound of white sugar 1 Gill of peach brandy 2 Gills of Cognac brandy 1 Gill of Jamaica rum 2 1/2 Pints of cold water [119]

Pineapple Punch ( F o r a party of 10) 4 1 1 1

Bottles o f champagne Pint of Jamaica rum Pint of brandy Gill of Curacoa Juice of 4 lemons 4 Pineapples, sliced

Sweeten to taste with p o w d e r e d sugar. Place the pineapple with one pound of sugar in a glass bowl, and let it stand until the sugar is well soaked into the pineapple, then add all the other ingredients, except the champagne. Let this mixture stand in ice f o r about an hour, then add the champagne. Place a large block of ice in the center o f the bowl, and ornament it with loaf sugar, sliced orange, and other fruits in season. Serve in champagne glasses. Pineapple Julep ( F o r a party of 10) Juice of 4 oranges 1/2 Pint raspberry syrup 1/2 Pint Maraschino 1/2 Pint Old T o m Gin 2 Quarts Sparkling Moselle 2 Well ripened pineapples, peeled, sliced and chopped fine Place all the materials in a punch bowl with shaved ice, and serve in cocktail glasses, ornamented with berries in season. S t r o n g ale w a s ablution. Small beer persecution, A drum w a s m e m e n t o mori ; B u t a f u l l - f l o w i n g bowl W a s the s a v i n g his soul, A n d port was celestial glory. —Burns

[120]

Punch a la Ford ( T h e f o l l o w i n g is an account, appearing in The Epicure's Almanac o f more than 75 years ago, o f the method e m p l o y e d - b y General Ford in making this famous punch a hundred years ago). " H e would select three dozen lemons, the coats of which were smooth, and whose rinds were not too thin; these he would peel with a sharp knife into a large earthen vessel, taking care that none of the rind should be detached but that portion in which the cells are placed, containing the essential oils ; when he had com­ pleted the first part of the process, he added two pounds of lump-sugar, and stirred the peel and sugar together with an oar-shaped piece of wood, f o r nearly half an hour, thereby ex­ tracting a greater quantity of the essential oil. Boiling water was next poured into the vessel, and the whole well stirred, until the sugar was completely dissolved. The lemons w e r e then cut and squeezed, the juice strained from the kernels; these were placed in a separate jar, and boiling water poured upon them, the Gen­ eral being aware that the pips were en­ veloped in a thick mucilage, full of flavor ; half the lemon j u i c e was n o w thrown in; and as soon as the kernels w e r e free f r o m their transpar­ ent coating, their liquor was strained and add­ ed. The sherbet was n o w tasted; more acid or more sugar applied as required, and care taken not to render the lemonade too watery. 'Rich of the fruit, and plenty o f sweetness,' was the General's maxim. The sherbet was then meas­ ured, and to every three quarts a pint of Cog­ nac brandy and a pint of old Jamaica rum were allotted, the spirit being well stirred as poured in; bottling immediately followed, and, when completed, the beverage was kept in a cold cel­ lar, till required." This excellent beverage improves with time in a cool place. [121]

Punch a la Romaine ( F o r a party of 10 to 1 5 ) 1 Quart of rum 1 Quart of wine desired 10 L e m o n s 2 Sweet oranges 2 Pounds powdered sugar 10 Eggs Dissolve the sugar in the juice of the lemons and oranges, adding the thin rind of 1 orange ; strain through a sieve into a bowl, and add by degrees the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth. Place the bowl containing the mixture on ice f o r a time then stir briskly while adding the rum and the wine. Punch Jelly Make a g o o d bowl of punch, a la Ford, pre­ viously described. To e v e r y pint of punch add an ounce and a half of isinglass, dissolved in a quarter of a pint of water; pour this into the punch while quite hot, and then fill y o u r moulds, taking care that they are not disturbed until the jelly is completely set. Orange, lemon, o r calf's f o o t jelly, can be converted into punch jelly f o r the evening, by following the above directions, only taking care to omit a portion o f the acid prescribed in making the sherbet. This preparation is a very agreeable refreshment on a cold night, but should be used in moderation ; the strength o f the punch is so artfully concealed b y its ad­ mixture with the gelatine, that persons, partic­ ularly of the gentler sex have been tempted to partake too freely of it, making them some­ what unfit for waltzing or quadrilling. W h i l e there's life on the iip, while there's warmth in the wine, One deep health I'll pledge, and that health shall be thine.

[122]

Queen Punch Place two ounces of cream of tartar, and the juice and parings o f two lemons, into a stone j a r ; pour on them seven quarts of boiling wat­ er, stir and cover close. W h e n cold, sweeten with loaf-sugar to taste and add 1/2 pint of rum. Strain and bottle, corking tight. This is a very pleasant liquor, and very wholesome ; but from the latter consideration was in olden times im­ bibed in such quantities as to b e c o m e injurious. Raspberry Punch ( F r o m a recipe in the Bordeaux Wine and Liquor Guide of more than 80 years a g o ) . 11/2Gill o f raspberry juice 3/4 Pound of lump sugar 31/2Pints of boiling water Infuse f o r half an hour, strain, add 1/2 pint of porter, 1 pint, each, of rum and brandy, and add more warm water and sugar, if desired weaker or sweeter. A p o n y glass of Curacoa, noyau, or maraschino, improves it. Regent's Punch ( F o r a party o f 2 0 ) 3 Bottles of champagne 1 Bottle o f Hockheimer 1 Bottle o f Curacoa 1 Bottle o f Cognac 1/2 Bottle o f Jamaica rum 2 Bottles of Madeira 2 Bottles of Seltzer o r plain soda water 4 Pounds of bloom raisins To which add oranges, lemons, r o c k candy, and instead o f water, green tea to taste. Refrig­ erate with all the icy p o w e r of the Artic. Tis e a s y When But the When

enough to be pleasant, life rolls by with a s o n g ; . man worth while is the man everything goes dead wrong.

[123]

with a

smile

Rocky Mountain Punch ( F o r a party of 20) 5 1 1 6

Bottles of champagne Quart of Jamaica rum Pint o f Maraschino Lemons, sliced Sugar to taste

Mix the above ingredients in a large punch­ bowl, then place in the center of the bowl a large square block of ice, ornamented on top with r o c k candy, loaf-sugar, sliced lemons or oranges, and fruits in season. Royal Punch 1 Pint of ho.t green tea 1/2 Pint of brandy 1/2 Pint o f Jamaica rum 1 Wineglass of Curacoa 1 Wineglass of arrack Juice of two limes A thin slice o f lemon White sugar to taste 1 Gill of warm calf's-foot jelly To be drunk as hot as possible. This is a composition worthy of a king, and the materials are admirably blended; the in­ ebriating effects of the spirits being deadened by the tea, while the jelly softens the mixture, and destroys the acrimony of the acid and sugar. The whites o f a couple of eggs well beaten to a froth, may be substituted f o r the jelly where that is not available. Ruby Punch Dissolve, in three pints of hot tea, one pound of sugar; add the juice o f six lemons, a pint of arrack, and a pint of port wine. [124]

Tea Punch Make an infusion of the best green tea, an ounce to a quart of boiling water ; put in an oven a silver or other metal bowl, till quite hot, and then pour into it 1/2 pint of good brandy ; 1/2 pint of g o o d rum ; 1/4 pound of lump-sugar ; the juice of a large lemon. Set the mixture afire, and pour in the tea gradually, mixing it from time to time with a ladle; it will remain burning for some time, and is to be poured into the glasses while flam­ ing; in order to increase the flavor, a few lumps of the sugar should be rubbed over the lemon peel. This punch may be made in a china bowl,"but in that case the flame goes off more rapidly. Tip-Top Punch (For a party of 5) 1 Bottle of champagne 2 Bottles of soda water 1 Pony of Curacoa 2 Tablespoonfuls powdered sugar 1 Slice of pineapple, chopped fine Mix the ingredients together in a small punch bowl, and serve in champagne goblets. Toledo Punch Place 2 1/2 pounds of loaf sugar in a large punch bowl ; add 5 or 6 bottles o f plain soda ; 4 lemons, (the juice only) ; 1 quart of Cognac brandy; 1 small bunch of wintergreen ; 4 oranges and 1 pineapple, cut in small pieces ; a sufficient quantity of strawberries and grapes. Mix these ingredients well with a ladle and add : 6 bottles of champagne ; 1 bottle of bran­ dy; 2 bottles of French Claret; 4 bottles of Rhine wine; 1 gallon o f water and mix well together. This punch must be served cold. Either sur­ round the bowl with ice, or leave out the water in the recipe and place a large block of ice in the bowl. [125]

West Indian Punch This punch is made in the same manner as brandy punch, but to each glass of punch add a clove o r two of preserved ginger, and a little of the syrup. Yorkshire Punch Rub the rind o f three lemons on pieces of sugar, place the sugar into a jar and add to it the rind of one lemon and an orange, and the juice of f o u r oranges and o f ten lemons, with six glasses o f dissolved calf's-foot jelly. Pour two quarts o f water over the whole, mixing the materials well, then cover the jar, and keep it on a warm radiator for twenty minutes. Strain the mixture, and add a pint of clarified syrup, half a pint each of rum and brandy, and a bot­ tle of g o o d orange or lemon shrub.

Sangarees This is a v e r y popular drink in the tropics, consisting of wine, water and sometimes bran­ dy, sweetened and spiced. Ale Sangaree 1 teaspoonful powdered sugar, dissolved in a p o n y of water. Fill with ale, grate a little nutmeg on top and serve. Brandy Sangaree 1/4 Glass shaved ice 1 P o n y of water 1 Jigger of brandy 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar Stir well, add a dash o f P o r t wine on top and serve. Gin Sangaree 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar in a little water 1 Jigger Holland Gin 1/4 Glass shaved ice Stir well with a spoon, add about a teaspoon­ ful port or sherry wine on top. [126]

Porter Sangaree 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 1/4 Glass shaved ice Fill with Porter. Stir well, grate nutmeg on top and serve. Port Wine Sangaree 2 / 3 Glass shaved ice 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 11/2Wineglasses Port wine Shake well ; grate a little nutmeg on top and serve. Sherry Wine Sangaree 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 1/3 Glass shaved ice 1 Wineglass sherry wine Shake well ; grate a little nutmeg on t o p and serve.

Slings A drink composed of spirit and water sweet­ ened. T o make : crush one cube of sugar in a glass with about a teaspoonful of water, one cube of ice. Crush a piece o f lemon or orange peel f o r the top if desired. Stir with a spoon and serve. I f hot sling is desired use hot water and grate a little n u t m e g on top. Brandy Sling 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 1 Jigger of brandy For a hot brandy sling, fill with hot water ; stir well, grate a little nutmeg on top. F o r cold use a lump of ice and water. Gin Sling 1 L u m p of sugar dissolved in a little water 1 Lump of ice 1 Jigger of gin [127]

Hot Scotch Whisky Sling 1 Jigger Scotch whisky 1 Lump of sugar Fill glass 3/4 full with boiling water, grate nutmeg on top.

Smashes A drink made with spirits, ice, water, sugar and mint or the like. In a smash the mint leaves are mashed with a muddler. Some of the more popular methods are as follows : Brandy

Smash

1 Tablespoonful powdered sugar 1 P o n y water 2 or 3 sprigs o f fresh mint, muddled in the glass 1 Jigger of brandy Fill glass 1/2 full with shaved ice, stir well, strain into a f a n c y bar glass and serve. Gin Smash 1/2 Glass shaved ice 2 Teaspoonfuls powdered sugar 2 or 3 sprigs fresh mint, muddled 1 Jigger Holland gin Stir well, strain into a sour glass, dress with fruit if desired. Medford Rum Smash 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar dissolved in water 2 o r 3 sprigs o f fresh mint, pressed to ex­ tract the essence 1 Jigger Medford rum Stir well, strain, dress with fruit if desired. Some replace the crushed mint with fresh sprigs, stems down as in juleps. [128]

Whisky Smash 2 Teaspoonfuls powered sugar 2 or 3 sprigs o f mint, muddled 1/2 Glass shaved ice 1 Jigger whisky Stir well ; strain into a f a n c y or sour glass ; dress with fruit if desired.

Sours Sours are especially tart drinks made as fol­ lows : Place ice in the m i x i n g glass adding the other ingredients as directed in the recipe, mix and shake them thoroughly. Strain and pour the mixture into a " s o u r " glass. Decorate only with a piece o f lemon in the glass. Some prefer to fizz a sour which makes it a combin­ ation of sour and fizz. This may be done to suit the individual taste. Apple Jack Sour 1 or 2 teaspoonfuls sugar (if desired) 2 o r 3 dashes of lemon or lime juice 1 Jigger o f old apple j a c k Stir, strain, dress and serve. Blackthorn Sour 2 Teaspoonfuls lime or lemon j u i c e 1 Teaspoonful pineapple syrup 1/2 Teaspoonful A b r i c o t i n e 1 Jigger Sloe gin Stir, strain into a claret glass, dress and serve. Brandy Sour 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar Juice 1/2 lemon or lime 1 Jigger brandy A d d a little Seltzer Stir, strain, dress and serve. [129]

Celery Sour 1 Teaspoonful pineapple syrup Juice o f 1/4 lemon 1/4 Tablespoonful celery bitters Stir, strain into a claret glass, dress and serve. Champagne Sour 1 Teaspoonful powdered sugar 2 o r 3 dashes limes or lemon j u i c e Fill with wine Stir, strain, dress and serve. Continental Sour 1/2 Teaspoonful powdered sugar Juice of lemon 1 Jigger whisky or liquor desired Shake, strain, dash with claret and serve. Egg Sour 1 Tablespoonful p o w d e r e d sugar 1 Egg Juice o f 1 lemon Shake thoroughly, serve with a straw with grated n u t m e g on t o p . Gin Sour 1 Teaspoonful p o w d e r e d sugar 4 or 5 dashes lemon juice 1 Jigger Holland gin A d d a little Seltzer or Apollinaris. Jamaica Rum Sour Juice o f 1 lemon 1 Teaspoonful sugar 1 Jigger Jamaica rum 1 Dash o f Curacao Shake well, strain, dress and serve. Jersey Sour This is made in the same fashion as Apple Jack sour. [130]

Medford Rum Sour Santa Cruz Sour and St. Croix Sour A r e made the same as Jamaica omitting the Curacao.

Rum sour

Sloe Gin Sour Juice o f 1/2 lemon 1 Jigger o f Sloe gin 1 Teaspoonful sugar Shake, strain, dress and serve. Whisky Sour Juice o f 1/2 lemon 1 Teaspoonful sugar 1 Jigger whisky Shake, strain, dress and serve.

Toddies Toddies are mixtures of spirit and hot wat­ er, sweetened. In the old days, toddies w e r e either served cold (with a little i c e ) o r hot as desired. They differ f r o m Slings 6nly in the fact that they are never served with nutmeg on top. Kentucky Toddy (Use an old fashioned glass) Dissolve 1 lump o f sugar in a little water 1 Jigger b o u r b o n whisky 1 L u m p o f ice Stir well and serve. If hot toddy is desired, omit ice and add hot water to taste. Brandy Toddy Gin Toddy and Whisky Toddy These are made in the same manner substi­ tuting the respective liquor. [131]

T o m and Jerry T o Jerry Thomas is due the praise and glory for the inspiration which resulted in giving to the world the most delicious and palatable bev­ erage yet known. Nearly 100 years have passed since Jerry Thomas traveled Europe and America in search of all that was recon­ dite in the art of spirit beverage mixing. His v e r y name during all these years has been syn­ onymous in the lexicon of mixed drinks, with all that was rare and original. Whatever may be prepared after his instructions will be able to speak eloquently f o r itself. " G o o d wine needs no bush," Shakespeare tells us and over this, especially, of all Jerry',s many famous mixtures, eulogy is quite as redundant. Jerry's name for the beverage was Copen­ hagen but those of his day who felt that credit should go to the proper place gave it the name T o m & Jerry. Recognized as the premier bartender o f his day, he served as Master of all beverage cere­ monies at various times at such world famous bars as the old Metropolitan Hotel, N e w Y o r k City; the Planter's House, St. Louis; and as proprietor of the most recherche bars of New Orleans and N e w Y o r k , long before the clouds of war darkened the horizon o f ' 6 1 . Following is the original formula as given by Jerry Thomas for T o m and Jerry. "5 Pounds sugar 12 Eggs 1 Wineglass of Jamaica rum 11/2Teaspoonfuls of g r o u n d cinnamon 1/2 Teaspoonful o f ground cloves 1/2 Teaspoonful of ground allspice Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and the yolks until they are as thin as water, then mix together and add the spice and rum, [132]

thicken with sugar until the mixture attains the consistency of a light batter." To serve T o m and Jerry use a Tom and Jer­ ry mug, and to one tablespoonful of the above mixture, add one wineglass of brandy, and fill with boiling water, grate a little nutmeg on top. Adepts at the bar, in serving T o m any Jer­ ry, sometimes adopt a mixture of 1/2 brandy, 1/4 Jamaica rum and 1/4 Santa Cruz rum, in­ stead of brandy plain. This compound is us­ ually mixed and kept in a bottle, and a wineglassful is used to each mug of T o m and Jer­ ry. " N . B . — A teaspoonful of cream of tartar, or about as much carbonate of soda as y o u can g e t on a dime, will prevent the sugar from set­ tling to the bottom of the mixture."

Syrups Banana Syrup 1 Gallon white syrup 1 Ounce essence o f banana A d d a f e w drops of lemon extract. Capillaire 20 Pounds best lump sugar 5 Quarts of water 1 Drachm acetic acid, strong Boil the sugar in the water until it is all dissolved ; add the acetic acid, and allow it to remain ten or fifteen minutes on the f i r e ; re­ move and allow it to c o o l ; then decant; clear into a bottle or jar. A d d 2 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, boil the whole 15 minutes. Strain; and if you wish, add 1 pony of brandy. Wild Cherry Syrup 4 ounces wild cherry bark, steeped in a pint o f cold water 36 hours ; press out, and add 1/2 pound of sugar, and strain. [133]

Cordial Syrup 35 Pounds refined lump sugar 3 Gallons boiling water Dissolve the sugar in the water and stir in through flannel. Gum Syrup 15 Pounds of loaf sugar 1 Gallon of water Boil together f o r 5 or 6 minutes and add water to make 2 gallons.

3

Orgeat (or Almond) Syrup 2 Pounds of sweet almonds 1/2 Ounces o f bitter almonds 3 Pints of fresh water 6 to 6 1/2 pounds of sugar

Drop the almonds (sweet and bitter) in boiling water. This blanches them, and they are easily skinned. Having peeled them, drop them into cold water, in which wash t h e m ; when ready put them into a clean mortar ( o n e of marble is better than b r o n z ) , and mash them ; next, squeeze in the j u i c e of two lem­ ons, or add a little acid, and, as you pound the almonds, pour part of a pint of clean water in­ t o the mortar ; mash thoroughly, until the mix­ ture looks like thick milk, and no pieces of al­ mond are left; then add another pint of the spring water. N o w squeeze the -white mash through a hair-cloth, o r other g o o d strainer; a c o m m o n plan is to have a large strainer held b y two persons ; as they twist the milk may be caught in a clean basin; whatever of the al­ monds is left in the cloth put back into the mortar, and mash it over again, adding a little of the spring water; then strain it, and mix it with the sugar which must first be boiled and clarified. While adding the almond milk let the pan o f hot sugar be o f f the fire ; when mixed boil a little more, then r e m o v e and stir until cold; pour in a small portion of the tinc[134]

ture of orange flowers, or the least drop o f the essence of neroly, and pass the mixture again through a cloth ; give the bottles an occassional shake for a f e w days afterward ; it will keep the syrup f r o m parting.

Toasts Friend of my soul ! this goblet sip— 'Twill chase the pensive tear ; 'Tis not as sweet as a woman's lip, But, O ! 'tis more sincere. God made man Frail as a bubble ; God made Love, L o v e made trouble ; God made the Vine, Then was it a sin That Man made W i n e T o drown Trouble in? Happy are w e met, Happy have w e been, Happy may w e part, and Happy meet again. Here's a sigh to those who love me, And a smile to those who hate, And whatever sky's above m e , Here's to the heart for every fate. W e r e ' t the last drop in the w e l l — As I gasped upon the brink, Ere my fainting spirit fell, 'Tis to thee that I would drink. —Byron Here's a health to the Future, A sigh f o r the Past; W e can love and remember, A n d hope to the last, A n d f o r all the base lies That the Almanacs hold While there's love in the heart, W e can never g r o w old. —Holmes [135]

Laugh and the world, laughs with y o u , W e e p and you weep alone ; F o r this grand old earth must b o r r o w its mirth, It has troubles enough o f its own. Here's to those I love ; Here's to those w h o love me ; Here's to those who love those I love, A n d here's to those who love those who love me. Drink today and drown all sorrow, Y o u shall perhaps not do't t o m o r r o w ; Best while you have it use y o u r breath, There'll be no drinking after death. —Fletcher Be glad and your friends are many, Be sad and you lose them all; There are none who decline your nectared wine, But alone you must drink life's gall. Sing and the hills will answer ; Sigh and it's lost on the air. The echoes bound to a j o y o u s sound, And good wine banishes care. O, fill the wine cup high ! The sparkling liquor pour ; For we will care and grief defy, They ne'er shall plague us more. Say, why did Time, His glass sublime, Fill up with sand unsightly, When wine he knew Runs brisker through And sparkles far more brightly? —Moore [136]

May the j u i c e of the grape enliven each soul, And g o o d humor preside at the head of each bowl. The Frenchman loves his. native wine ; The German loves his beer ; The Englishman loves his 'alf and 'alf, Because it brings g o o d cheer. The Irishman loves his "whisky straight," Because it gives him dizziness. The A m e r i c a n has no choice at all,, So he drinks the whole D---------- business. Come, fill the glass and drain the bowl ; May love and Bacchus still agree ; And every American w a r m his soul With Cupid, wine and liberty. Fill the g o b l e t again, f o r I never b e f o r e Felt the glow which n o w gladdens my heart to its core. Let us drink; w h o would not? since through life's varied round In the g o b l e t alone no deception is found. T o wit without virulence, wine without ex­ cess, and wisdom without affectation. T o Friendship : May its lamp ever be sup­ plied by the oils of truth and fidelity. The Good Thing. Of This World Parsons are preaching f o r them, Lawyers are pleading for them, Physicians are prescribing f o r them, Authors are writing f o r them, Soldiers are fighting f o r them, But true Philosophers alone are enjoying them. Come, fill a bumper, pass it round, May mirth, wine and wit abound, In them alone true wisdom lies— For to be merry is to be wise. [137]

Toasts of love to the timid dove A r e always going 'round ; Let mine be heard b y the untamed bird A n d make y o u r glasses sound. Here's to one and only one, A n d may that one be she, W h o loves but one and only one, A n d may that one be me. Yesterday's yesterday while todays here, Today is today till t o m o r r o w appear, T o m o r r o w ' s t o m o r r o w until today's past, And kisses are kisses as long as they last. Some have meat and canna' eat, A n d some would eat who want it; But w e have meat and we can eat, So let the Lord b e thankit. T o A m e r i c a ' s daughters—Let all fill their glasses, W h o s e beauty and virtue the whole world sur­ passes ; May blessings attend them, go wherever they will, And foul fall the man e'er offers them ill. W e come into this world all naked and bare; W e g o through this world full o f s o r r o w and care ; W e g o out o f this world, we know n o t where, But if we're g o o d fellows here, we'll be all right there. And the night shall b e filled with music, And the cares that infest the day Shall fold their tents like Arabs, And as silently steal away. [138]

PART II. COOKING

RECIPES

LIQUEURS, W I N E S A N D SPIRITS IN T H E K I T C H E N The fame of many a French Chef has been due, largely, to his generous use of Liqueurs, Wines and Spirits in preparing his masterpieces o f the culinary art, and g o o d cooks everywhere have long known the secret of coaxing extra deliciousness out of ordinary foods. N o w that wine is again available in this country, every American housewife will have at least a bottle of white wine, a bottle of red wine and a bottle of brandy in her kitchen cabinet. The prime reason for using Liqueurs, Wines and Spirits in cookery is to improve flavor and texture. They blend with natural f o o d flavors and enhance their appeal to the appetite as nothing else does, adding a piquancy that can­ not be attained in any other way. They also make f o o d more digestible, be­ cause although the alcohol evaporates at fair­ ly low temperatures, the beneficial fruit acids remain. Variety in the diet is one of the greatest natural aids to appetitie and digestion. Liq­ ueurs, Wines and Spirits are inexpensive flav­ ors which will add endless variety t o y o u r cookery. Try the recipes in this book and learn how much they add to flavor and texture. Then you will use them to give "the chef's t o u c h " to your own favorite recipes.

Just Remember These Helpful Hints Whenever possible, add wine near the end of the cooking time. Then keep the vessel tightly covered. Sweet wines are usually best for desserts and dessert sauces. [140]

Although Sherry is used extensively in cook­ ing, do not overlook the light, dry wines (both red and white) of high acid content : Chablis, Sauternes and the Rhine wine types for fish dishes and fish sauces; Claret and Burgundy types f o r meats, meat sauces and gravies. Note—4th proof white brandy used in canning has an approximate alcoholic content of 80 per cent.

CAKES Brandy Fruit Cake Ten e g g s ; 1 pound sugar; 12 ounces Cottolene; 11/2pounds currants; 1 1/2 pounds raisins ; 3/4 pound citron; 1 pound f l o u r ; 1 nutmeg; 1 teaspoonful allspice; 1 teaspoonful cinnamon ; 1/2 teaspoonful cloves; 1/2 teaspoonful mace ; j u i c e and rind of 1 orange ; juice and rind o f 1 lemon. Beat the eggs all together until light. Beat the Cottolene to a cream, add the sugar, beat again; add the eggs, then the flour and spices, and give the whole a g o o d vigorous beating. A d d 1 gill o f good brandy. Beat again. Stem and seed the raisins; clean, wash and dry the currants ; cut the citron into shreds; mix the fruit and flour it well, then add it to the cake ; add the juice and rind of the lemon and orange ; stir all well together. Line two round cake-pans with greased paper, pour in the mixture and bake in a very moderate oven f o u r hours. This will make two four pound cakes. Maryland Fruit Cake 3 pounds currants 4 pounds raisins. 3 pounds citron. 2 pounds shelled almonds. 1 pound candied cherries. 2 pounds English walnuts. 2 pounds black walnuts. [141]

4 pounds figs. 4 pounds dates. A little lemon and orange peel crystallized. 13 eggs. 1 1/4 pounds butter. 11/4pounds flour. 11/4pounds sugar. 1 pint Jamaica R u m . 1 pint Madeira wine. 1/2 pint F r e n c h Brandy. 3 tablespoons cinnamon. 3 tablespoons allspice. Take most of the flour and sift over the fruit, which has been carefully cut in small pieces. Beat eggs and sugar together ; put in liquor, spices and lastly add fruit.

Tipsy Cake Use sponge or plain cake, stick with blanched almonds, pour wine over this until it is covered, then boil custard, then another layer of cake, almonds, wine and custard, cov­ ering the whole with syllabub.

CANNING WITH BRANDY Brandy Apricots Using first grade apricots b e f o r e b e c o m i n g perfectly ripe, rub them slightly with a linen cloth, and prick them with a pin to the stone in different places ; then lay them in very cold water. A t the same time take equal parts of water and plain syrup, sufficient to cover the apricots ; boil the syrup in a copper boiler, and when boiling throw all the apricots into the syrup at the same time and keep them down with a skimmer; when they begin to get soft under pressure of the finger, take them out gently, lay them in a sieve to drip off the syrup; then arrange the fruit in an earthen dish, clarify the syrup with the white of an e g g ( S e e Clarification), boil it to its regular thickness, and pour it boiling hot on the apri[142]

cots so as to cover them; let them stand for 24 hours, then take them out of the syrup and put them in glass jars, without squeezing them. The balance of syrup is clarified again, and mixed with 3 parts white 4th p r o o f brandy; fill the jars with the mixture and cork and seal them. Brandy Cedrats Using cedrats with very thick rinds ; cut off, with a very sharp knife, the outside part of them, without touching the white; keep the rinds for the use o f cordials, etc.; split the white rind in 4 parts without touching the fruit and remove this rind ; place them f o r a while in alum water (this is done to retain the natural color o f the fruit) ; then boil in plain syrup on a slow fire, and when soft enough take them out with a skimmer; put them in an earthen dish; cover them with fresh clarified syrup ; after 24 hours take them out of the syrup and put them in jars ; mix 2 parts of white 4th proof brandy (macerated before with some rinds) ; add 1 part of the syrup ; fill the jars with this mixture and cork and seal. Brandy Cherries Six pounds of red sour cherries with short stems; carefully remove the stems; cover the cherries with 1 gallon o f 4th proof white bran­ dy ; and permit them to macerate f o r 2 weeks. (See maceration) ; decant the liquor; then add 4 pounds of sugar, moistened and boiled with 1 pint of water; skim ; this done, make a tinc­ ture o f 1 drachm of ground cloves, 4 drachms of ground coriander, 4 drachms of star anise, 2 drachms of ground cinnamon, and 36 grains o f mace, with 1 quart of 4th-proof white bran­ d y mixed with the a b o v e ; filter; cover the cherries in the j a r s ; cork and seal. Cherry Conserve (See Maraschino Cherries) A delicious conserve can be made of the [143]

syrup drawn from the fruit to make r o o m f o r the maraschino. W h o l e canned cherries may be substituted f o r the fresh, in which case sugar in the right proportions should be added and the whole c o o k e d ten minutes b e f o r e drain­ ing o f f the syrup as with fresh cherries; then proceed as f o r Maraschino Cherries. A f e w drops o f clear cranberry j u i c e added to the canned cherries will restore their original color. Made in this way, maraschino cherries are not an expensive luxury. Maraschino Cherries Stone the cherries with care to save all the j u i c e ; weigh and f o r each pound of fruit al­ low a pound of sugar ; drain the cherries in a colander and set the fruit on ice. A d d the j u i c e and sugar together and c o o k to a thick s y r u p ; then drop in the cherries and simmer all together f o r fifteen minutes. Remove half the syrup and supply its place with maraschino. Bring quickly to the boiling point, keeping the kettle closely covered. W h e n just boiling re­ m o v e from the fire and put in air tight j a r s at once. Brandy Grapes Using only the soundest and largest Muscat grapes obtainable; wash and place them in cold w a t e r ; prick them 2 or 3 times each with a pin, and place them in a sieve to drip o f f the w a t e r ; wipe dry with a linen cloth, and ar­ range them in j a r s ; cover them with the ex­ tracted j u i c e of the smaller fruit, mixed with 2 parts of 4-proof white brandy, sweetened with plain syrup to taste, and filter ; cork and seal the jars. Brandy Melons Using musk or other melons; cut them in slices, taking the rind and inside parts away, place the melons in water containing a little lemon juice, and boil them up f o r 2 or 3 times; take them o f f the fire and let them stand covered f o r one hour ; then pour them in other [144]

cold water containing lemon juice, and let them c o o l ; empty them on a sieve to drip o f f the water; then boil them gently in plain syrup ; when soft take them o f f with the skimmer, and place them in an earthen dish; cover them with the fresh boiling clarified syrup, after 24 hours' standing ; then drip o f f the syrup and arrange them in j a r s ; clarify the syrup again ; when necessary, mix with it 4th-proof white brandy, of 2 parts of its own v o l u m e ; fill the j a r s with the mixture to cover the melons; cork and seal. Brandy Mirabelles Rub six pounds of mirabelles; with a linen cloth and prick them with a pin on the place of the stem and on the opposite end. Cover them with 1 gallon of 4th-proof white brandy and permit them t o macerate for 2 weeks ; de­ cant the liquor and add four pounds of sugar moistened and boiled with 1 pint o f water, and skim; this done, make a tincture o f 1 drachm of ground cloves, 4 drachms o f ground corian­ der-seed, 4 drachms of ground star anise-seed, 2 drachms o f ground cinnamon, and 36 grains of ground mace, with 1 quart of 4th-proof white brandy, mixed with the a b o v e ; filter; cover the mirabelles in jars with the mixture and cork and seal. Brandy Oranges Obtain an excellent grade of oranges ; cut off the yellow skin, carefully, and put it aside ; peel o f f the white, and throw it away; prick the fruit with a pin, and then lay them in cold water; pour them at once in boiling w a t e r ; boil up twice (about 1 minute) ; take them o f f the fire; let them stand covered for 1 h o u r ; put them in cold water again and after the water is dripped off, place them in a jar ; then boil plain syrup and cover the oranges, and let them stand f o r 24 hours; drip o f f the syrup, and boil it to its regular consistence ; repeat it twice m o r e ; after the third repetition, drip [145]

off the syrup ; clarify it with the white of eggs ; mix it with 2 parts 4th-proof white brandy; filter, and cover them in jars with the mix­ ture, c o r k and seal. Orange Peel Candied Take o f f skins in quarter sections and wash thoroughly. Put in cold water and boil until tender enough to cut into strips with scis­ sors. Put on a l o w fire in fresh cold water and allow to simmer f o r about one-half day; then turn o f f and put into enough thin syrup to cover—made of granulated sugar and water boiled—and allow to cook until syrup has near­ ly disappeared and they begin t o look trans­ parent. Put in colander and drain, letting them stand f o r about an hour. Coat with fine granulated sugar and pack in tin boxes or glass jars. In about a day or two they will be ready for use and will keep a long while. Brandy Peaches Using only excellent peaches a little before being perfectly r i p e ; rub them o f f slightly with a linen cloth ; prick them with a pin to the stone in several places, and put them in cold water ; at the same time take equal parts o f water and plain syrup in a quantity sufficient to cover the peaches in a copper boiler; when the syrup boils t h r o w in the peaches; keep them down with a skimmer, until soft; take them out, lay them on a sieve to drip o f f the syrup ; next clarify the syrup with the white of e g g s ; boil it to the proper thickness, and then arrange the peaches in an earthen dish, and pour it boiling hot over them so as to cov­ er them ; let them stand f o r 24 hours ; fill them in jars, without squeezing; then again clarify the balance o f the syrup, and mix it with 3 parts of 4th-proof white brandy; fill the j a r s ; cork and seal them.

Take small,

Brandy Pears highly-perfumed [146]

pears,

skin

them, taking care not to damage the stems; cut o f f the ends of the stems and lay the fruit in iron-free alum water ( b y so doing the nat­ ural color of the fruit is retained) ; let them remain in the alum water f o r 1/2 hour, remove them and put them in boiling water ; as soon as they get soft take them out, and lay them in cold water which contains the juice of a f e w lemons ; when the water becomes warm it must be changed with cold ; when perfectly cold ar­ range them in jars, without breaking the stems; take, in the beginning of the operation. 1 part of boiling hot syrup, and throw it over the skins ; let it cool ; then add 2 parts o f 4thproof white brandy; mix it with the syrup ; filter, and fill the jars to cover the fruit, cork and seal. Brandy Pears Martha Washington's Recipe for Pear Preserves.) " Y e pears shoulde be v e r y freshe. Washe and put yhem into boiling lye f o r a minute. R e ­ move and place yhem into cold water. Next put ye fruit into a prepared sirupe of sugar and water. Use an half pound of sugar for everie pound of ye fruit, water to dissolve. N o w cook for an quarter of an hour. Remove and put on plates to cool. Boyle sirupe down to one half its original quantitie. Put sirupe and pears into jars and add brandy. Seal while hote." (Mistress

Brandy Plums and Brandy Prunes A r e made precisely the same as the peaches. Brandy Quinces Rub the quinces with a linen cloth, and take off the skin very carefully, and lay them in cold w a t e r ; cut them in 4 parts; take out the hearts ; then lay them in iron-free alum water for a f e w minutes ( b y doing so you retain the natural color of the f r u i t ) , and throw them in boiling syrup until they begin to get soft ; [147]

take them out with the skimmer; arrange them in an earthen dish; clarify the syrup; throw it boiling hot on the fruit in sufficient quan­ tity to c o v e r ; after 24 hours standing drip off the syrup; clarify it, and add 2 parts of 4th-proof white brandy, in which were macer­ ated the skins of the fruit; filter, and fill the jars previously arranged with the quinces; cork and seal.

COCKTAIL Wine Fruit Cocktail 1 Cup peeled seedless grapes. 1 Cup scooped cantaloupe. 11/2Cups diced apples. 1/2 Cup sliced bananas. 1 Cup Full Red Sweet Wine. Mix fruit together adding the wine. Chill for two hours and serve in cocktail glasses.

DESSERTS, PUDDINGS, SALADS A N D SAUCES Wined Apples Make a thick syrup of 2 cups sugar, 1/2 cup water, drop in 6 medium apples, let boil until tender, add 1 cup of red wine, 1 dozen cloves, a stick of cinnamon and cook for five minutes alter wine is added. Gelee Benedictine 1 Package lemon flavored gelatin. 1 Cup warm o r boiling water. 3/4 Cup cold water. 1/4 Cup Benedictine. Dissolve gelatin in warm or boiling water, according to directions on package. A d d cold water and Benedictine. Pour into a mold and place in the refrigerator until firm. Unmold and serve. This makes 4 to 6 servings. [148]

Glace Benedictine 3/4 Cup of sugar. 4 E g g yolks or 2 eggs. 2 Cups milk. 2 Cups whipped cream. 1/2 Cup Benedictine. Combine sugar and egg yolks. A d d the milk and cook slowly in a double boiler, stir­ ring constantly until the mixture coats the spoon. Cool, add Benedictine and fold in the whipped cream. Pour into a tray of the re­ frigerator and freeze until firm. This will make 12 servings. Wine Jelly One package gelatine; 1 pint sherry o r Madeira wine ; 1 pound sugar ; juice and rind of two lemons; 1 cup cold water; 1 quart boil­ ing water. Let the gelatine soak in the cold water one hour; add the sugar, lemon juice, grated rind and boiling water; stir until all is dissolved : put in the wine and strain through a flannel bag ; turn into forms and set away to harden. Genuine English Plum Pudding 1 1 1 1

Coffee cup brown sugar. Coffee cup kidney suet. Coffee cup bread crumbs. Coffee cup fruit, (raisins, currants, cit­ ron and n u t s ) , cup all together, not each. 1 Teaspoon cloves. 1 Teaspoon nutmeg. 1 Teaspoon cinnamon. Salt to taste. 1 Cup water.

Chop c.r grind suet fine. Mix with fruit and nuts, etc. Bake in slow oven about 1 hour. Serve with brandy sauce poured over and brought to the table burning. [149]

Frozen Pudding (Kentucky) Make a rich custard by any recipe and put in freezer. When beginning to freeze add onehalf cup raisins, one pound almonds chopped fine, one quart whipped cream. Stir well to keep fruit from g o i n g to bottom. W h e n near­ ly frozen add seasoning of g o o d whisky or sherry. Do this last, as the liquor prevents freezing. Hard Sauce For Pudding Cream together a cup of sugar and half a cup of butter until light; add a tablespoon o f brandy and the beaten white of one egg. Wine Pudding Sauce One-half pound sugar; 1/2 pound butter; 1 gill water; 1 gill wine ; a little nutmeg. Beat to a cream the sugar and butter ; grate a very little nutmeg with them ; a f e w minutes before the sauce is to be sent to the table ; heat to the boiling point the water and wine, stir them quickly into the butter and sugar until a frothy sauce is formed, and then serve the sauce with any hot pudding. Strawberry Sauce 1/2 Cup strawberry j u i c e . 1 Cup whipped cream. 2 Tablespoonfuls Maraschino. Sugar to taste. Mix and serve cold over any pudding. Syllabub ( A n old Georgia recipe) 1 Quart cream. 1 Cup sugar. 1 Cup sherry wine. Mix well; churn with a syllabub churn and serve in thin glasses. Tutti Fruitti Three oranges, 3 bananas, Malaga grapes, strawberries, cut in small pieces and sugar. [150]

Dissolve 1/2 box gelatine in cup of warm water. To 1 quart of white wine add 1/2 pint water. Sweeten to taste. Let wine come to a boil, stir in Gelatine and when dissolved, pour in the fruit. Place on fire and let come to boil, but not cook. After removing, stir occasionally until partly congealed, and. serve with whip cream flavored and sweetened.

MEATS AND FISH AND MEAT SAUCES Chicken In Wine About 3 pounds of young spring chickens, in pieces, dredge in flour and fry golden brown in one part olive oil and one part but­ ter. Season with salt and pepper and a little garlic if desired. Place in a roasting pan and cover the chicken with 2 cups of medium tart sweet cooking wine and simmer in a 300 de­ gree oven for one hour. Remove to a hot plat­ ter and serve. Delicious gravy may be made by adding milk to the residue in the pan and thickening to the desired consistency. Ham Baked In Burgundy Soak a small ham in plenty of cold water over night, then wash it thoroughly, trim and tie it lightly together. Now place it in a large sauce pot, cover it with cold water and place the pot over a quick fire until it boils ; then re­ duce the flame and simmer gently for three hours. Remove the ham from the water, cut away two-thirds of the rind and fat and place in a roasting pan. Now mix in a sauce pan one and a half quarts of strong meat broth with a bottle of Burgundy ( 1 / 5 gal.) one tablespoon sugar, three cloves and a few tiny onions; boil a tew minutes, pour it over the ham and place in a moderate oven for about a half hour. Baste often until the ham is brown and well [151]

glazed. Skim the sauce, thicken it slightly, strain and add a little lemon juice and a glass of White Tokay. Baked Spiced Ham (Thomas Jefferson's Favorite) Select a nice ham, f r o m twelve to fifteen pounds, soak over night in cold water. Wipe o f f and put on enough water to c o v e r ; sim­ mer f o r three hours. Let cool in the water it was cooked in. Take out and trim. Put into baking pan, stick with cloves and cover with brown sugar. Bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Baste with white wine. Serve with salad of any kind, preferable savory salads. Baked Pork Chops In Wine 6 Pork Chops salted and peppered. 2 Cored and pared apples. 1 Teaspoonful sugar. 1/2 Tablespoonful butter. 1/2 Cup Claret wine. 1/2 Cup hot water. Dust chops with salt and pepper, dredge in flour, fry until golden brown. Cover with slices of apple ; dust with sugar, a little more salt and dot the whole with butter. Place in a covered roaster, bake in a hot oven until the apples begin to soften and the chops to brown. Then pour in the wine and water and continue cooking thirty minutes longer. Baste occa­ sionally with the liquid in the pan. When done, the apples will be tender and slightly brown. Jugged Rabbit American wild rabbits are almost equal in flavor to the English hare, and may b e pre­ pared in the same manner. F o r six persons take two rabbits, an onion, two bay leaves, three cloves, half a dozen allspice, one tablespoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one tablespoonful o f lemon juice, f o u r table[152]

spoonfuls of sherry, half a cupful of butter, four tablespoonsful of flour, three cupfuls of water, 1 tablespoonful of mushroom catsup. If port wine be preferred to sherry, use 1 gill. Skin and draw carefully and cut into pieces and roll in flour. Put the butter into a fryingpan, and when it gets hot, put in the meat. Brown well on both sides, being careful not. to burn. When the meat has been well browned put it into a stew-pan, and put into the fryingpan such flour as remained after the meat was rolled in. Stir until the mixture gets smooth ; then add the water, and cook for ten minutes. Pour this liquid over the meat in the stew-pan. A d d the spice, salt, pepper, and the onion un­ cut. Cover closely, and simmer for an hour and a half ; then add the wine, lemon juice and catsup. Arrange the rabbit on a warm platter, and strain the sauce over it. Serve with a dish o f boiled rice. Roasts When you are starting your roast use sher­ ry wine instead of water and thereafter as Cook needed until the roast is completed. your roast and make gravy in the usual man­ ner. Fish Salmon and Lake Trout in Wine Clean the fish and place it in a fish broiler. Salt and pepper and add one-half bottle ( 1 / 1 0 gal.) Claret and one-half bottle ( 1 / 1 0 gal.) Riesling wine, one sliced onion and a bouquet of parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Cov­ er and cook very gently until tender, then re­ move the skin and place the fish on a hot plat­ ter. F o r the sauce, brown two spoonfulls of flour in a good sized lump of butter, add a cup of meat broth, two spoons of tomato puree and a cup of the fish broth with a little shrimp o r lobster paste. Cook until creamy, strain, add a chopped truffle, pour over the fish and serve very hot. [153]

Steak Rolled In Wine One pound of bottom round steak cut 1/4 inch thick. Cut into f o u r portions and spread each with mustard. Slice one onion and one dill pickle very thin and arrange on each por­ tion. Roll into rolls j e l l y roll fashion and se­ cure with toothpicks. D r e d g e with flour, salt and pepper and saute in about two table­ spoons butter in frying pan. A d d one cup of hot water, cover and simmer about an hour. A d d about 6 ounces o f sherry ten minutes be­ fore taking from fire. Veal Cutleta

Maintenon

Trim the boned cutlets and brown them, af­ ter which they are put in the flat dish in which they are to be served, leaving plenty of room f o r the sauce. The latter is made of equal quantities of clear meat broth and milk, with seasoning and a small amount of garlic. N o w reduce the sauce till it begins to thicken; take it f r o m the fire and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg so that it b e c o m e s thick enough to cover the cutlets. Put the dish into a quick oven ; the cutlets should be fully cooked by the time the sauce begins to b r o w n . N o w sprinkle over them a glass of White Tokay, that has been slowly c o o k e d with chopped mushrooms, and a delightful dish is ready to be served. Currant Sauce For

Venison

Half an hour b e f o r e the venison is done pick over an ounce of dried currants, wash them well, put them over the fire in a half pint of hot water, and boil them f o r fifteen min­ utes; then add to them two heaping tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, one of butter, a palatable seasoning o f salt and pepper, and six whole cloves, and boil the sauce g e n t l y ; just before serving it add a glass of port wine.

[154]

MISCELLANEOUS Clarification On the whole, clarification is preferable for syrups to filtration. They need only be beat­ en up while cold with a little white o f egg, and then heated; a scum rises which must be re­ moved as soon as it becomes consistent, and the skimming continued until the liquor be­ comes clear. A n y floating portions of scum that may have escaped notice, are easily re­ moved by running the syrup through a coarse flannel strainer while hot. Crepes Flambees Benedictine Cup all-purpose flour. 1/4 Cup granulated sugar. 1 Pinch o f salt. 3 Eggs. 1 1/2 Cups milk. 1/2 Cup Benedictine. 1/4 Cup of butter. 1/3 Cup Cognac Brandy. Mix and sift the dry ingredients. Combine beaten eggs with milk and add to the first mix­ ture t o f o r m a thin batter. A d d 2 teaspoonfuls o f the Benedictine. For frying each crepe, place about a teaspoonful of the but­ ter in a small frying pan and pour in about 2 tablespoonfuls batter. Tip the pan so as to spread the batter evenly in a very thin layer. As soon as browned turn and brown on the other side. R e m o v e and roll up. Place on platter and repeat until batter in used up. Combine remainder o f Benedictine with bran­ dy, warm and pour over the crepes, light, and serve aflame. 16 servings. 1

Egg-nog ( A n d r e w Jackson's F a v o r i t e ) . 12 Eggs, beaten separately. 12 Tablespoons powdered sugar. 18 Tablespoons French Brandy or whisky. [155]

12 Tablespoons Jamaica Rum. 1 Tablespoon vanilla extract. 1 Quart whipped cream. Beat yolks of eggs with the sugar till very light; stir in whisky or brandy and rum and set on ice to cool. Just before serving add the vanilla, the beaten whites and all the cream which has been beaten to a stiff froth. Serve from cups and eat with a spoon. Gherkin

Buck

( A n early Colonial breakfast dish.) Put half pound of American cheese in a saucepan; sprinkle with a little cayenne and wet with ale, allowing a cup of ale to a pound of cheese; stir while adding the ale until the cheese is a soft creamy mass, then pour it over hot buttered toast; place a thin crisp slice of fried bacon on top of each piece and a gherkin shredded on top of the bacon, and serve very hot. Wined

Grapefruit

Prepare grapefruit in the usual manner af­ ter which pour into each half two tablespoonfuls of medium sweet white table wine. Chill and serve garnished with a cherry. Maceration

Maceration is simply the immersing of cer­ tain substances in spirits or any other liquid, for a given length of time. By this process the strength and flavor are taken f r o m the roots, seeds, fruit, etc., and imparted to the liquid. To macerate, the liquid should be at blood-heat. Sweet

Potatoes

In

Wine

Peel four medium sized sweet potatoes and slice about one-third inch thick lengthwise. Arrange in a roasting pan, sprinkle with about three tablespoonfuls brown sugar, generous slab of butter and the juice of 1/2 lemon. Cov­ er the bottom of the pan with water. Broil slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Add [156]

about 4 ounces of medium tart sweet white table wine ten minutes before removing from the oven and baste well, increase flame and brown well on both sides.

PIES Mince Meat Two pounds of beef (sticking piece is best) ; 2 pounds layer raisins; 2 pounds currants, picked, washed, and dried; 1 pound citron; 2 nutmegs, grated ; 1/4 ounce of cloves; 1 quart sherry or g o o d home-made currant w i n e ; 2 pounds beet suet; 1/2 pound candied lemon peel; 4 pounds apples; 2 pounds Sultana rais­ ins; 2 pounds sugar; 1/2 ounce cinnamon ; 1/4 ounce m a c e ; 1 teaspoonful salt; 1 quart good brandy; juice and rind 2 oranges and two lemons. Cover the meat with boiling water and sim­ mer gently until tender, then let stand away until cold. Shred the suet and chop it fine. Pare, core and chop the apples ; stone the rais­ ins; shred the citron; when the meat is per­ fectly cold, chop it fine and mix all the dry ingredients with it; then add the juice and rinds of the lemons and oranges; mix well and pack in a stone j a r ; pour over the brandy and wine, cover closely, and stand in a cool place. Mince meat made by this recipe will keep all winter. W h e n ready to use, dip out the quan­ tity desired and thin with cider or wine. One word here about cleaning the currants : First put them in a large bowl, and to every pound add a half cup flour ; mix the flour thor­ oughly through the currants, and then rub them between the hands until all the stems are rubbed o f f ; put them in a colander; and pour over endless quantities of cold water until all the twigs, gravel, stones and sand are washed o f f ; now scald them, then wash again in cold water, drain, spread them on pie dish[157]

es and stand in a cool oven, with the door open, to dry. Fresh beef tongue or heart may be boiled, chopped and used instead of beef, if preferred. Sherry Wine Chiffon Pie Combine 1 cup of milk with 1/2 cup of sugar and heat to the boiling point. Place in a double boiler, add three well-beaten egg yolks, a pinch of grated nutmeg and 1/4 teaspoonful salt. Stir constantly. Add 1 cup sherry wine slowly, and two tablespoonfuls gelatin that has previously been soaked in 4 tablespoonfuls of cold milk. Cook the mixture in the double boiler until it coats a spoon. Cool slightly and fold in the stiffly beaten whites of 3 eggs. Let cool ; then blend with one cup of whipped cream. Cover with one cup of whipped and sweetened cream. Chill again before serving.

SOUP Wine Soup 1 Pint o f wine. 1 Pint boiling water. 4 Eggs well beaten. Sugar to taste. Boil five or ten minutes and serve in bouil­ lon cups.

[158]

GLOSSARY ABRICOTINE— A French Apricot Brandy; its colour bright tawny ; its flavour "apricot" and Cognac. AHRWEILER— One of the best red Hocks from the Ahr Valley (Germany). AIGLERIE (Chateau de l')— One of the best white wines of Anjou. ALBA— One of the red "Barolo" wines of Piedmont. ALBA FLORA— The best white wine of Minorca, off the coast of Spain. ALBANO— One of the best white wines of the Latium (Italy). ALICANTE— The best known wine of the Spanish Province of Levante ; mostly sweet, red wine. ALOXE-CORTON— One of the important wine-producing Communes of Cote d'Or. The best vineyards of this Com­ mune are Le Corton and Le Clos du Roi ; other good vineyards are Les Bressandes, Le Char­ lemagne, Les Chaumes. ALSACE— The easternmost province of France between the Vosges mountains and the Rhine. Alsace pro­ duces a very large quantity of quite ordinary wines from the Elbing and Burger grapes, as well as a fair quantity of very much better wines (white) from the Riesling and Traminer grapes. AMER PICON— A bitter liqueur-wine popular chiefly in France as an aperitif. [159]

AMONTILLADO— Originally the white wine from Montilla, but the name covers now pale, dry Sherries of the Montilla type (Spain). Should be served cold. AMOROSO— A golden, somewhat rich "dessert" Sherry. AMOURETTE— A French liqueur. ANGELICA— A Basque (French) liqueur, pale yellow in colour, very sweet, flavoured with Angelica and Pyrenees plants. Made by and better known as Izzara. ANGOSTURA— The most popular brand of "Bitters". It is compounded at Port of Spain, Trinidad, with Rum as its basis and a number of aromatical herbs and roots. ANIS— Aniseed flavoured spirit. ANJOU— The Department of Maine-et-Loire produces a large quantity of very pleasing and some really fine white wines, among the best being those of the Coteaux de Layon and the Quart de Chaume. It produces also a large quantity of light white wines eminently suitable for making sparkling wines. The still wines of Maine-et-Loire and adjoining vineyards are usually known as Vins d'Anjou, Anjou being one of the former French Provinces with Angers as its county town ; the sparkling wines are known as Vins de Saumur. APERITIF— French for a short, strong and often bitter drink supposed to give one an "appetite" before meals. APPLE BRANDY— Distilled Cider; a colourless, potable spirit, usu­ ally of high strength and unsweetened. Its appeal is mostly limited to apple-growing districts, where it is distilled ; chiefly in Normandy, Devonshire, and Hereford. [160]

APPLE GIN— A colourless spirit distilled by Melrose Drover, Ltd., Leith, Scotland. APRICOT GIN— One of Messrs. Hawker's (Plymouth) "Pedlar Brand" liqueurs. AQUAVIT— A colourless, strong Scandinavian spirit. The two best known are the Danish Aalborg Taffel Akvavit, of Copenhagen, and Loiten's Norwegian Aquavit, sold in two qualities : the " X X X " and the "Gammel". ARBOIS— One of the best wines, chiefly white, of the Jura (France). ARMAGNAC— Brandy distilled from wine of the Gers Departement. The centre of the Armagnac district is Condom. The best Armagnac Brandies are dis­ tilled from the Bas-Armagnac wines and are divided into three classes, known as Grands, Fins, and Petits. ARRACK— A strong spirituous liquor distilled chiefly from rice, but also from the sugar cane, and flavoured with a number of Eastern fruits and roots. ASSMANNHAUSEN— An important parish on the right bank of the Rhine which produces the best, and best known, red wines of Germany as well as some white wine. ASTI— The best known sparkling wine of Italy. The vineyards of Asti and the neighboring vineyards, in Piedmont, produce a large quantity of wine, mostly white. AURUM— A pale gold liqueur from Pineta di Pescara (Italy). AUSLESE— German for "Specially Selected"; used for [161]

Hocks and Moselles made from the best and ripest bunches of grapes specially selected at the time of the vintage. When not only the bunches of grapes, but the best berries from each bunch, have been specially selected the wine is described as Beerenauslese or Goldbeerenauslese, with, sometimes, the qualificative Feine (Fine) or Feinste (Finest) be­ fore it. AUSONE (Chateau)— The first growth of St. Emilion ; 15 tuns red wine. Always bottled at the Chateau. (There is, also, in the Graves district, a Chateau Ausone, which produces about 5 tuns a year of red wine of moderate quality.) AUSTRALIA— New South Wales is the cradle of Australian viticulture, but it has been outpaced by Victoria, and above all by South Australia, which is re­ sponsible for nearly three-fourths of the Aus­ tralian wine production. In both Queensland and Western Australia a little wine is also made, but not on a sufficiently important scale to provide wines for export. BABY— The name sometimes given to the Nip or quarterbottle of Champagne. BADACSONY— One of the best wine-producing districts of Hungary; mostly white wines. BALSAM OF HERBS— Medicinal Bitters compounded by Wolfschmidt, Riga. BANANA LIQUEUR— One of Garnier's (France) specialties sold under the name of Banane De La Martinique. White and light straw colour. Also distilled by Baczewski, Boh, Bailor, and others. BANUYLS— Sweet dessert wine from the Banuyls vineyards, Roussillon. [162]

BARBERA— One of the best red wines of Piedmont (Italy). BARI— The best white wine of Apulia (Italy). BAROLO— One of the best red wines of Piedmont (Italy). It is produced in a strictly limited district known as Le Langhe, which includes, besides the parish of Barolo, the parishes of Castiglion Falletto, La Morra, Monforte, Verduno, Perno, Serralunga, and Grinsone. BARR— One of the best white wines of Alsace (France). BARRIQUE— French for Hogshead. BARSAC— The most important white wine Commune of the Gironde after Sauterns, which it adjoins, produc­ ing somewhat luscious white wines similar to those of Sauternes, but with a slightly drier finish and a bouquet quite distinctive. The two finest Growths of Barsac are Chateau Coutet and Chateau Climens. BATARD-MONTRACHET (Le)— One of the good vineyards of the Commune of Puligny-Montrachet, Cote d'Or (white wine). BEAUJOLAIS— The vine-clad hills facing the right bank of the River Saone, from Romaneche-Thorins, in the Saone-et-Loire, to below Villefranche, in the Rhone Departement. The Beaujolais vineyards produce an abundance of wine, mostly red, lighter than red Burgundies from the Cote d'Or, but with greater charm than the majority of the wines of the Cotes Maconnaise and Chalonnaise. BEAUNE— An ancient city, in the heart of the Cote d'Or, and the most important mart for the wines of the Cote d'Or. The vineyards which surround Beaune are among the most extensive and most famous of Burgundy. [163]

BEESWING— A filmy mucilage sediment in old bottled Port wines. BEL-AIR—MARIGNAN (Chateau)— One of the best red wines of St. Emilion. BENICARLO— A very dark, and somewhat rich, red wine from Castellon de la Plana (Spain). BERNCASTEL-CUES— Twin villages, Berncastel on the right, and Cues on the left bank of the Moselle. Berncastel pro­ duces the finer wines of the two. The most famous vineyard of Berncastel is known as the Doktor. It consists of thirteen acres owned by threefirms: Thanish, Deinhard, and Lauerberg. Other good vineyards are Graben, Badstube, and Lay, in Bern­ castel ; Weissenstein, Herrenberg, and Lay, in Cues. BEVERAGE WINES— Opposed to vintage wines. Wines of average quality and strength, medium priced, suitable as a daily table wine. BEYCHEVELLE (Chateau) — One of the most popular Clarets from the Com­ mune of St. Julien (Medoc). BEZIERS— One of the most important centres of production and distribution of the commoner French wines, mostly red. BIKADER— One of the best red wines of the Egri district (Hungary). BINGEN— An important wine-growing centre on the Rhine at the mouth of the River Nahe in Rhine-Hesse. BLACK BALSAM— One of Wolf Schmidt's Riga liqueurs. BLAGNY— One of the best white wines of the Cote d'Or (Commune of Puligny-Montrachet). [164]

BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX— A peculiar white sparkling wine Limoux, near Carcassone (France).

made at

BOA VISTA— One of the finest, as well as one of the most celebrated of the Quintas of the Alto Douro (Portugal). For many years the property of the Forrester Family ; the vintages of this Quinta are still shipped by Messrs. Offley, Forrester & Co. BOAL— See Bual. BODY— That quality in a wine giving it the appearance of consistency and vinous strength. Connoisseurs speak of a "full" wine, of a wine with body, as opposed to a light, or thin wine. BOCKSBEEREN— Lettish CASSIS, compounded by Wolfschmidt, Riga. BOCKSTEIN— One of the best wines of the Saar Valley, Parish of Ockfen (Germany). BODEGA— The Spanish name for a wine store or cellar ; the name has been adopted in many lands as the sign of wine bars. BODENHEIM— One of the more important wine-producing parishes of Rhine-Hesse. BOMMES— One of the chief wine-producing parishes of the Sauternes district. BONNES MARES (Les)— One of the good vineyards of the Commune of Chamboile-Musigny ; also one of the best vineyards of the Commune of Morey, both in the Cote d'Or (Burgundy). BORDEAUX— The metropolis of the Gironde and the home of Claret. The finest wines of Bordeaux are those [165]

of the Medoc, Graves, Sauternes, and St. Emilion districts. BOURGUEIL— One of the best red wines of Touraine (France). BOUSCAUT (Chateau du)— A fine estate of the Graves district of Bordeaux, producing on an average 150 tuns red and 40 tuns white wines. BOUZY— One of the finest growths of the Marne (Cham­ pagne), long famous for its still red wines, before the advent of sparkling Champagne BOXBETEL— The wrong, although not uncommon, spelling of Bocksbetel, the Steinwein bottle of Franconia. BRANAIRE-DUCRU (Chateau)— This Chateau, in the Commune of St. Julien, a 4th Growth of the Medoc, was known at first as Chateau Branaire, then as Chateau BranaireDuluc, being for some 140 years the property of the Du Luc family ; then as Chateau BranaireDucru-Duluc, when it was acquired by Mr. Ducru. BRANE—CANTENAC (Chateau)— A 2nd Growth Medoc, in the Commune of Cantenac, producing on an average 100 tuns of fine Claret per annum. BRAUNEBERG— One of the most renowned wine-producing dis­ tricts of the Middle Moselle, near Berncastel. Best vineyards : Tuffer, Falkenberg, Burgerslay. The most important vineyard owner of Brauneberg is Freiherr von Schorlemer. BRISTOL CREAM— A fine Oloroso Sherry shipped by Harvey of Bristol. BRISTOL MILK— Extra Superior Golden Sherry shipped by Har­ vey of Bristol. BROLIO CHIANTI— One of the best red wines of Tuscany (Italy). [166]

BROWN-CANTENAC See

(Chateau)—

Cantenac-Brown.

BRUT— French word originally used to describe a Cham­ pagne entirely unsweetened. BUAL— The English way of spelling Bool, the name of one of the best grapes grown in the Island of Madeira and one of the best Madeira wines, a wine originally made exclusively from the Boal grape. Boal grapes are now very scarce, and the Boal, or Bual, Madeira is made from other good grapes and as much as possible to a type between the Sercial and the Malmsey types of Madeira wines. BUCELLAS— Lisbon golden wine which enjoyed a great meas­ ure of popularity in England in the early part of Queen Victoria's reign. Mostly made from the Arinto grape, a grape which it is claimed is the same as the Riesling. BUDESHEIM— One of the good white wines of Rhine-Hesse (Germany). BURGUNDY— The name of a former province of France, and also the name of the wine made from various vineyards within the boundaries of the said former Burgundy province. There is both Red Burgundy and White Burgundy. The best Red Burgundy comes from the vineyards of the Cote d'Or. The best White Burgundy also comes from the Cote d'Or, but the quantity made is ever so much smaller than the Red. There are quite a number of dif­ ferent types and styles of both red and white wines made in Burgundy, but the name Burgundy has a strictly geographical meaning, at any rate in France. Elsewhere, more particularly in Eng­ land, the name of Burgundy is sometimes used in a generic sense to designate a dark red wine of rather more than average alcoholic strength. [167]

BYRRH— A popular brand of French Aperitif made b> Violet Freres, Thuir. CALEDON— One of the best wine-producing districts of the Cape Province (South Africa). CALON-SEGUR (Chateau)— St. Estephe. 3rd Growth Medoc, average yield 200 tuns Claret per annum. CALVADOS— The Normandy equivalent of Apple Jack, or distilled Cider. CANON (Chateau)— One of the 1st Growths o f St. Emilion (Claret). CANTEMERLE (Chateau)— Parish of Macau ; one of the Sth Growths of the Medoc (Claret). N o "Chateau Bottling". CANTENAC-BROWN (Chateau)— Parish of Cantenac ; one of the 3rd Growths of the Medoc (Claret). N o "Chateau Bottling" from 1894 to 1910. CANTENAC— One of the best wine-producing Communes of the Medoc. The finest Estates of Cantenac are : Chateau Brane-Cantenac, one of the 2nd Growths ; Chateaux Kirwan, d'Issan, Cantenac-Brown, and Palmer, four of the 3rd Growths; Chateaux Le Prieure and Pouget, two of the 4th Growths ; Chateaux Angludet, Martinens, and Montbrun, Bourgeois Superieurs. The more ordinary wines of Cantenac have acquired by long usage the right to be sold under the name of the neighboring and better known Commune of Margaux. CANZEM— One of the good white wines of the Saar Valley (Germany). CAPERITIF— Aperitif from the Cape. [168]

CAPRI— Red and white wines—the white being much the best—from the vineyards of the Island of Capri (Italy). CAPRICOT— An Apricot Brandy liqueur, golden in colour. CARBONNIEUX (Chateau)— In the Communes of Villeneuve d'Ornon and Leognan. One of the finest Estates of the Graves district, producing on an average 150 tuns of red and 120 tuns of white wines. CARCAVELLOS— Red and white wines from the southern bank of the Tagus estuary (Lisbon). Sometimes called Carcavella or Carcovellos. CARINENA— A sweetish golden wine, somewhat reminiscent of a light Medeira ; made in the neighborhood of Saragoza (Spain) CASEL— Ruwer Valley, Treves district ; white wines. CASSIS— A French liqueur, also made in England, Hol­ land, and elsewhere. Almost black in color, rather sweet, and with the flavour of black currants. CASSIS— Red, white, and roses French wines made from the vineyards the nearest to Marseilles (Bouchesdu-Rhone). CASTAGNOLI— A Chianti of outstanding quality. that of the vitage of 1931.

Particularly

CASTELLIROMANI— Chiefly red wines made from the Latium vineyards the nearest to Rome (Italy). CAWARRA— One of the best known vineyards of New South Wales, Australia. [169]

CENTERBE— See San

Silvestro.

CERASELLA— A dark and sweet Italian Cherry liqueur. CERONS— One of the lesser Communes of the Graves dis­ trict, adjoining the Commune of Barsac. Chiefly white wines. CERTAN (Chateau)— One of the 1st Growths of Pomerol (Claret). CHABLIS— A small town of the Yonne Department (France) surrounded by vineyards from which a light white wine is obtained which has made the name of Chablis famous all over the world. The best vineyards are the following: Clos, Valmur, Vaudesir,

Grenouilles,

Blanchots,

Pointes

Des

Preuses. White wines sold under the labels "Chablis Village" or "Petti Village" is rarely if ever genuine Chablis. Chablis Moutonne is a reg­ istered brand of Chablis. CHAGNY— The Commune of Saone-et-Loire nearest to the Cote d'Or ; it produces a little red wine, but more and better white wines. CHALKIS— One of the best white wines of Greece. CHALONNAIS or COTE CHALONNAISE— The wine-producing district immediately south of the Cote d'Or and north of the Maconnais. The best known red wines of the Cote Chalonnaise are Mercurey and Givry ; the best white, those of Chagny and Rully. CHAMBERTIN— One of the most famous Burgundies from a vineyard of the Commune of Gevrey-Chambertin (Cote d'Or)—32 acres. CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY— One of the important wine-producing Communes of the Cote d'Or. Its best known vineyards are [170]

Le Musigny and Les Bonnes Mares. Among the other best vineyards of this Commune are Les Amoureuses and Les Charmes. CHAMBRER— To place a wine in a "Chambre" or room, the dining-room, where it will gradually acquire the temperature of the room, that is to say the ideal temperature to enjoy most red wines. Unfortu­ nately, "Chambrer" is only too often translated as "to take the chill off", barbarous means to that end being to plunge a bottle of wine into hot water, or else to place it before a good fire ; both methods are equally fatal to all wines except wines intended to be served as "mulled" wines. CHAMPAGNE— The name of a former province of France, and also the name by which is known the most famous of all sparkling wines, made within a strictly limited area of the said former Champagne province. Both red and white still wines are made in Champagne, but, when not otherwise qualified, the name "Champagne", in English, only refers to the white sparkling wines of Champagne. CHAMPAGNE (Fine)— The name by which some Cognac Brandy is known; it does not apply to any particular type of Brandy, but is intended to convey the idea of a good quality Brandy, a blend of Brandies of which some may have been Grande or Petite Champagne Brandies. CHAMPAGNE (Grande)— The name given to a small part of the Charente Departement, the soil of which is chalky, and the vineyards of which produce the wine from which the finest Cognac Brandy of all is distilled. The name also applies to the Brandy from the Grande Champagne vineyards. CHAMPAGNE (Petite)— The name of the vineyards adjacent to those of Grande Champagne ; they produce the next best Cognac Brandy, which is also known by the name [171]

of Petite Champagne and is mostly used for blending purposes to improve commoner Cognac Brandies. CHARLEMAGNE (Le)— One of the best vineyards of Aloxe-Corton, Cote d'Or (Burgundy). CHARMES (Les) — One of the best vineyards of the Communes of Gevrey-Chambertin, of Chambolle-Musigny, and of Meursault (Burgundy). CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET— One of the three Communes of the Cote d'Or producing the finest White Burgundy. Its best Les Batardsvineyards are Le Montrachet, Montrachet (part of them) ; La Boudriotte, Les Brussonnes, Chassagne, Clos, St. Jean, La Maltroie, Les Morgeots, Clos Des Grandes Ruchottes.

CHATEAU— The homestead of a wine-producing estate, which bears its name. Used chiefly in the Bor­ deaux district. Some Chateaux, such as Chateau Yquem, are castles of great age and historical interest ; others, such as Chateau Haut Brian, are ancient, but much restored, manors ; others, such as Chateau Margaux, are imposing but compara­ tively modern mansions ; but there are also many other Chateaux without any historical or archi­ tectural merit. Whether the Chateau be large or small, old or new, has nothing to do with the quality of the wine made in the vineyards attached to it. The important feature of a Chateau wine is that it is produced year after year from the same Estate ; it varies as regards quality accord­ ing to the particular vintage when it was made, but it possesses a distinctive and constant style of its own. Fictitious Chateaux, which exist only on labels, are registered fancy names under which blends of wines are sold ; these may be, and should be, more regular in quality, but they never possess the individuality, breed, and characteristic seductiveness of a wine made, in a good year, from the grapes of one and the same fine vineyard. [172]

CHATEAU BOTTLING— The translation of "Mis en bouteilles au Chateau", or "Mise de Chateau", indicating that the wine was bottled at the Estate where it was made. The following Classed Growths of the Medoc do not sell their wine "Chateau Bottled" : Leoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton, PontetCanet, Giscours, Beychevelle, Dauzac, ClercMilon-Mondon, Cantemerle. CHATEAU CHALON— The most celebrated white wine of the Jura (France). The best wises of Chateau-Chalon have an admirable austerity somewhat reminiscent of a high-class Fino Sherry. There i« also a Vin de Paille, or sweet wine, made in particularly hot years. CHATEAU GRILLET— The finest white wine of Condrieu, left bank of the Rhone, south of Lyons. CHATEAU MEILLANT— One of the best red wines of Berry (France). CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE— One of the finest of the Rhone Valley wines (France). There is a little white wine made at Chateauneuf-du-Pape, but most, and the best Chateauneuf-du-Pape is red. Well known vineyards of Chateauneuf-du-Pape are those of Cha­ teau de la Nerthe, Clos, St. Pierre, and Nallys. CHERRY BRANDY— An English liqueur also made in many other countries. The original Cherry Brandy was that made by Thomas Grant & Sons, Maidstone, with Morella Cherries and Brandy. It is made in two qualities : the "Queen's", which is the original and sweeter, and the "Sportsman's", which is the stronger. The most popular imported Cherry Brandy in England is that shipped by Peter F. Heering of Copenhagen. Bardinet, Cointreau, Cusenier, Garnier, Marie Brizard, Cazalet, Rocher Greres, are among the shippers of French Cherry Brandies. [178]

Boh and Fockink ship the two best known Dutch Cherry Brandies, and Drioli and Luxardo the two best from Dalmatia. Wolfschmidt, of Riga, ship a Cherry liqueur, similar to Cherry Brandy, under the name of Nalivka Cherry. CHERRY GIN— One of Messrs. Hawker's (Plymouth) "Pedlar Brand" liqueurs. CHERRY WHISKY— A liqueur similar in colour (dark red) to the Cherry Brandy, but with the cherry flavour not so pronounced ; it is also stronger in alcohol. CHESKY— One of the best known Cherry Whiskies. CHEVAL BLANC (Chateau)— 1st Growth Graves de St. Emilion (Claret) CHEVALIER (Domaine de)— Parish of Leognan ; one of the best wines of the Graves district (Claret). CHIANTI— The best known Italian red wine. It is made chiefly from the vineyards of the three parishes of Radda, Castellina, and Gaiole, a district known as Chianti Ferrese, in the Province of Siena. The wines made in the adjoining parishes of Castelnuove, Beredegna, the Terzo of Siena, parts of Greve, Barberino in Valdelsa, and Poggibonsi are also entitled to the name of Chianti. There is but a small quantity of white Chianti made. CHINON— One of the best red wines of Touraine. CLAIRETTE DE DIE— A semi-sparkling light red wine from Die on the River Drome (France). CLARET— The name by which the red wines of Bordeaux have been known in England ever since the twelfth century. The name is also used to designate nat­ ural red beverage wines from other wine-produc[174]

ing districts, but in all such cases Claret should be qualified, as Australian Claret, Spanish Claret, etc. Used without any such geographical qualification, the name Claret only applies to the red wines of Bordeaux, the most natural and the most wholesome of all wines. There is no wine other than Claret to possess so great a variety of styles and types, such perfection of poise and harmony be­ tween all that a wine should have : colour, bouquet, flavour, and savour. CLERC-MILON-MONDON (Chateau)— Commune of Pauillac; one of the 5th Growths of the Medoc (Claret). No "Chateau Bottling". CLIMENS (Chateau)— Parish of Barsac ; one of the 1st Growths of Sauternes. CLOS DE BEZE— One of the best vineyards of the Parish of Gevrey-Chambertin (Burgundy). CLOS DE TART— One of the best vineyards of Morey-Saint-Denis, Cote d'Or (Burgundy). CLOS DE VOUGEOT— The finest vineyard of the Commune of Vougeot, Cote d'Or (Burgundy). CLOS FOURETE— 1st Growth St. Emilion (Claret). CLOS SAINTE ODILE— One of the best known white wines of Alsace (France). COCHEM— An important white wine-producing parish of the Lower Moselle. COINTREAU— One of the most popular of all liqueurs. It is colourless and has a distinctive orange flavour. COLLARES— The beverage wines, mostly red, from the hills around Lisbon (Portugal). [176]

CONDRIEU— The most famous wine-producing Commune the right bank of the Rhone, south of Lyons. produces much fair white wine ; none, however, exceptional quality except the one known Chateau Grillet.

on It of as

CONSEILLANTE (Chateau L a ) One of the 1st Growths of Pomerol (Claret). CONSTANTIA— There are three vineyards bearing the name of Constantia at the Cape : Groot Constantia, the oldest vineyard of the Cape Peninsula and the property of the Government ; Klein Constantia and High Constantia, where both red and white wines are made. CONSUMO— The Portuguese equivalent of Vin Ordinaire, plain wine of no particular merit CONTHEY (Chateau de)— One of the best wines of the Valais (Switzer­ land). CORKED WINE— Strictly speaking, a bottle which is not un­ corked (French, Bouche), but often wrongly used in the place of Corky. CORKY WINE (French, Bouchonne)— A wine tainted by a foul-smelling or diseased cork. CORTON— The best known name of the wines of AloxeCorton, Cote d'Or, some being very fine and some only fair. The more ordinary red wines of Aloxe-Corton are usually sold merely as Corton, whilst the best are usually more fully described according to the particular vineyard of Corton from which they were made, such as Corton Clos du Roi, Corton Charlemagne, Corton Bressandes, Corton Marechaudes, Corton Pougets, Corton Renardes, Corton Perriers. CORVO— An Italian wine—mostly white—of some repute. [176]

COS D'ESTOURNEL (Chateau)— St. Estephe ; one of the 2nd Growths of the Medoc (Claret). No "Chateau Bottling" from 1894 to 1904. COS LABORY (Chateau)— S t Estephe ; one of the 5th Growths of the Medoc (Claret). COTES-DU-RHONE— Both red and white wines, but chiefly red, from the vineyards of the Rhone Valley, below Lyons. COTE ROTIE— The finest red wine of the Commune of Ampuis (Rhone Valley), and the best "Cotes-du-Rhone" wine. COUTET (Chateau)— One of the 1st Growths of Barsac (Sauternes). COUTET (Chateau)— One of the 1st Growths of St. Emilion (Claret). CRADLE— A basket in which a bottle of old wine contain­ ing heavy sediment is placed for pouring. CRAMANT— One of the best white grape parishes of Cham­ pagne. CREMANT— French for "creaming", meaning slightly effer­ vescent. CREME DE BANANES— One of the lesser liqueurs. CREME DE CACAO CHOUAO— A sweeter quality of the Creme de Cacao. CREME DE CHOCOLAT— A variant of the Creme de Cacao Chouao. CREME DE CUMIN— A high-quality Kummel. Has a considerable quantity of sugar crystals in it, and is sold at very high strength. [177]

CREME DE MANDARINE— A French liqueur better known as Mandarine De Btidah, being made from Blidah tangerines. CREME DE MOKA— A French liqueur, light brown in colour, and with a coffee flavour. CREME DE NOYAU— A French liqueur compounded by most distillers in France. CREME DE PRUNELLES— A French liqueur, pale green in colour, with a distinctive flavour of sloes. CREME DE THE— A French liqueur, colourless, with a flavour of tea. CREPES FLAMBEES— Flaming pancakes. CRU— French for "Growth", in the sense of an indi­ vidual vineyard. CRUST— A firm sediment, chiefly of tartrates, adhering to the glass surface of bottles in the case of oldbottled wines, chiefly Port. CUPSSummer drinks prepared in large jugs and made up of any kind of wine watered down by ice, soda or seltzer, with the addition of some spirit— usually brandy or gin-—one or two or even more sweet liqueurs, that bring strength and flavour to the Cup. Sprigs of mint, borage, and some cucumber rind, as well as grapes, strawberries, and pieces of other fruit are added to make the Cup look more attractive.

CURACAO— A sweet, digestive liqueur made of spirit—wine or grain spirit—sugar and orange pulp. It was first made by the Dutch, who used as a flavouring agent the Citrus Aurantium Curasswiensis, a bitte [178]

orange first discovered in Curacao, a Dutch West India Island. There are a great many varieties of Curacaos. Cointreau Triple See and Grand Marnier are two well known Curacaos sold merely under the names of the distillers. Fockmk's and Bols' are the two most popular Dutch Curacaos. The best known French ones are Cusenier's EXTRA SEC, which is golden in colour ; Garnier's FINE ORANGE, yellow of colour and dryish; Cointreau's MAJESTIC, pale brandy in colour and rather stronger than most; Bardinet's, Marie Brizard's, Cazalette, and others. Other well known Curacaos are: Heering's TRIPLE SEC, in two styles, the one white and SOWERAIN, the other brown ; Baczewski's which is white ; Wolf Schmidt's POMMERANZEN-CURACAO, yellow in colour and dryish ; Luxardo's, and others. CURE-BON— 1st Growth St. Emilion (Claret). CUVEE— French for a Blend or a Vatting. Also, in Champagne, the first pressing, hence the best wine made from the freshly gathered grapes at the time of the vintage. DAMSON GIN— An English liqueur compounded by Tanqueray Gordon, by Idle, Chapman (IDOL Brand), by James Burrough (OLD CHELSEY Brand), and others. D'ARCHE (Chateau)— One of the 2nd Growth Sauternes. DAUZAC (Chateau)— Labarde ; Sth Growth Medoc ; 660 tuns red wine. Also some white wine mostly used in the manu­ facture of a sparkling white wine known as "Royal Medoc Mousseux". N o "Chateau Bot­ tling". DECANT— T o pour the wine from its original bottle into a dacanter in order to avoid the risk of stirring up [179]

sediment in the bottle during serving. The sedi­ ment is left in the bottom of the original bottle. DEIDESHEIM— One o f the most important Palatinate.

growths o f

the

DEMIJOHN— A bulging, narrow-necked bottle o f from 3 to 10 gallons' capacity, usually cased in wicker, and with wicker handles. From the French, DameJeanne. DESMIRAIL (Chateau)— Commune of Margaux. One o f the 3rd Growths of the Medoc (Claret). DEMI-SEC— When seen on Champagne labels, "demi-sec" is a warning that the wine is quite sweet. DEZALEY— One o f the best wines o f the Vaud Canton (Switzerland). DHRON— Moselle Valley wines.

(Berncastel

district).

DRAKENSTEIN— One o f the best white wine districts Cape Peninsula (South Africa).

White

of

the

DRY— Opposed to sweet. DUBONNET— A French tonic, or medicated wine, with a bitter quinine after taste. Popular in France as an aperitif. DUC D'EPERNON (Chateau)— Villenave d'Ornon and Leognan ; Graves ; 30 tuns white wine. DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU (Chateau)— St. Julian ; 2nd Growth Medoc ; 100 tuns Claret. DUERKHEIMER FEUERBERG— A fine Rhinewine, particularly of the vintage of 1921. [180]

DUHART-MILON (Chateau)— Pauillac ; 4th Growth Medoc ; 140 tuns Claret. DURFORT-VIVENS (Chateau)— Marbaux; 2nd Growth Medoc; 80 tuns Claret. DURKHEIM— One of the best white wines of the Palatinate. EAU-DE-VIE— "Water of life", potable alcohol or spirit not necessarily distilled from wine: the two most de usual forms of Eau-de-Vie are Eau-de-Vie Grain and Eau-de-Vie de Vin : grain spirit and wine spirit. Eau-de-Vie de Marc is the spirit o b tained from the distillation of the husks of grapes after they have been pressed and the wine made. Eau-de-Vie de Cidre is distilled cider. ECHEZEAUX (Grands)— The best wine o f Flagey-Echezeaux, Cote d'Or (Burgundy). EITELSBACH (Ruwer Valley)— Near Treves. One of the best wines (white) of the Ruwer Valley. The best vineyards are: Karthauserhofberg ; Sonnenberg and Eitelsbacherhofberg. ELTVILLE— One of the most important wine-producing parishes of the Rhinegau (Germany). ENFANT-JESUS— The best of Les Grèves vineyards o f Beaune (Cote d ' O r ) . The property o f Bouchard Pere et Fils, Beaune. ENGLISH WINES— English wines, as distinct from British wines, are alcoholic beverages made in England from roots, plants, flowers or fruit, mostly homegrown, but also imported. Among the principal English wines, in point o f popularity and antiquity, are the following : Blackberry, Cherry, Cowslip, Currant, Damson, Dewsberry, Elderberry, Fig, Gooseberry, Ginger, Peach, Pear, Plum, Quince, Raspberry, Rose, Strawberry, and [181]

other wines. English wines are known to and taxed by the Excise under the name of sweets. EN KIRCH— Moselle Valley, Zell district. ENTRE-DEUX-MERS— That part of the Gironde Departement com­ prised between the Rivers Dordogne and Garonne, a district which produces a very large quantity of both red and white wines usually of moderate quality and price. EPESSES— One of the best red wines of the Canton de Vaud (Switzerland). ERBACH (Rhlnegau) — Close to Ertville. Very fine Hocks. The best known vineyard of Erbach is Markobrunnen. ERDEN— Moselle Valley, Berncastel district. White wines. ESTOURNEL (Cos d')— St. Estephe ; 2nd Growth Medoc. ETAMPE— French for stamped or branded, i. e., with the name of the vineyard or of the shipper and the date of the vintage branded on the cork. EVANGILE (L')— 1st Growth Pomerol ; 25 tuns red wine. FENDANT DE SION— One of the best Swiss white wines, from the Valais. FERNET BRANCA— An Italian bitter or appetiser, FERRIERE (Chateau)— Margaux ; 3rd Growth Medoc (Claret). FIGEAC (Chateau)— 1st Growth Graves de St. Emilion (Claret). FILHOT (Chateau)— 2nd Growth Sauternes ; 70 tuns white wine. [182]

FINE— French for an indifferent Brandy from some unknown source. FINE CHAMPAGNE— A Brandy one would expect to be better than the Fine, but no real guarantee of quality. FINE MAISON— The staple Brandy of the House (Hotel or Restaurant) ; as a rule the safest, but seldom fine. FINO— One of the most delicate of all Sherries ; the real Fine is dry without any bitterness and delicate without being in the least weak. FLEURIE— One of the more important wine-producing Com­ munes of the Rhone Departement (Burgundy). FLIERS— The particles that float in white wines or rest at the bottom of the bottle. They have a light, whitish and fluffy appearance, resembling a light sand. Evidently they are the effect of transporta­ tion to colder climates than the country of origin. They have no effect, whatever, on the taste of the wine and may be cured by resting the bottles in about 70 degrees Fahrenheit. FLIERS— Fine white pieces of sediment in white wines, somewhat like minuscule flakes of snow, which do not spoil the bouquet nor the taste of wine. FONPLEGADE (Chateau)— 1st Growth St. Emilion (Claret). FONROGUE (Chateau)— 1st Growth St. Emilion (Claret). FORST— One of the finest growths of the Palatinate. Luscious white wines. Best vineyards : Kirchenstuck, Freundstuck, Jesuitengarten. FOURTET (Clos)— 1st Growth St. Emilion (Claret). [183]

FRASCATI— One of the best white wines of the Latium (Italy). FRAISIA— A French liqueur, red flavour of strawberries.

in colour,

with

the

FRAPPE— French for Iced. FREEZOMINT— See Creme de Menthe. FRONSAC— An important wine-producing Canton of the Gironde, producing much red wine of moderate to very fair quality. FRONTIGNAN— The best Muscat grape "Dessert" wine of the Languedoc (France). FUISSE— A parish of Saone-et-Loire, producing good white wines usually sold as Pouilly-Fuisse (Bur­ gundy). GAZIN (Chateau)— Leognan ; Graves ; 80 tuns red, and 8 tuns white wines. GAZIN (Chateau)— 1st Growth Pomerol (Claret). GEISBERG— One of the best white wines of the Saar (Germany). GEISENHEIM— The parish of the Rhinegau in which is situated the Rhine Viticultural Station. Much fine white wine, also some sparkling wine. GELEE BENEDICTINE— Jellied Benedictine. GENEVA— Corruption of Genievre, the French name for Juniper and Gin ; it only refers to Dutch Gin or Hollands; it has no connection whatsover with the seat of the League of Nations. [184]

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN— One of the most important Communes of the Cote d'Or, the two finest vineyards of which are Chambertin and Clos de Beze. GINGER BRANDY— An English Cordial compounded by many Eng­ lish distillers. GISCOURS (Chateau) — Labarde ; 3rd Growth Medoc "Chateau Bottling".

(Claret).

No

GLACE BENEDICTINE— Frozen or iced Benedictine. GOUTTES D'OR— One of the best known vineyards of the Com­ mune of Meursault, Cote d'Or. GRAACH (Moselle Valley)— Berncastel district. Fine white wines. Best vineyards : Domprobst, Himmelreich, Absberg. GRAIN SPIRIT— Generally speaking, any spirit distilled from any kind of grain, but according to "Trade" usage, the term only applies to Whisky distilled in a "Patent" Still and not in a "Pot" Still. GRANDE CHAMPAGNE— The finest Cognac Brandy. GRAND-MARNIER— A French liqueur, light brown in colour and with the flavour of orange, sold in two styles: one as Cordon Rouge, and the other, which is sweeter and weaker, as Cordon Jaune. GRAND-PUY-DUCASSE and GRAND-PUYLACOSTE (Chateau)— Two of the 5th Growths of the Medoc, Pauillac (Claret). GRANDS ECHEZEAUX (Les)— The finest vineyards of Flagey-Echezeaux, Cote d'Or (Burgundy). [185]

GRANJO— A sweet white wine of the Sauternes type from the estate of the late Marquis de Soveral, Portu­ guese ambassador to the Court of St. James and personal friend of King Edward V I I . GRAPPA— A crude Italian spirit distilled from the husks —skins, pips and stalks—of the grapes after the grapes have been pressed and the wine made. GRAVES— The wines of Graves, when not otherwise quali­ fied, refer to the wines from a district which begins just outside Bordeaux, and produces both red and white wines, the red wines being of higher quality than the white, although the white are better known than the red under the name of Graves. GRENACHE— A sweetish amber Pyrenees (France).

"Dessert" wine from

the

GRENOUILLES (Let)— One of the best vineyards of Chablis. GREVES (Let)— One of the best vineyards of Beaune, Cote d'Or. The finest wine of Greves-Beaune is known as L'Enfanta-Jesus. GREVES (Les)— One of the best vineyards of Aloxe-Corton, Cote d'Or. GRIGNOLINO— One of the best red wines of Piedmont (Italy). GR1LLET (Chateau)— The most famous of the white wines of the Rhone Valley ; from the vineyards of Condrieu. GRUAUD-LAROSE-FAURE (Chateau)— St. Julien ; 2nd Growth Medoc ; 100 tuns red wine. GRUAUD-LAROSE-SARGET (Chateau)— St. Julien; 2nd Growth Medoc; ISO tuns red wine. [186]

GRUMELLO— One of the best red wines of the Valtellina (Piedmont). GRUNHAUS MAXIMIN— One of the finest white wines of the Ruwer (Treves district). GUIGNOLET— A French Cherry Brandy liqueur distilled at Angers. GUIRAUD (Chateau)— 1st Growth Sauternes; 80 tuns white wine. GUMPOLDSKIRCHEN— One of the best known Austrian wines, chiefly red ; the white is generally sold as Gumpolds Kirchner

Steituvein.

GUNFLINT— A peculiar and rather pleasing "burat" smell and taste of some of the driest white wines. HALF OM HALF— A popular liqueur in Holland ; distilled by all Dutch liqueur makers. HALLGARTEN— One of the best wine-producing parishes of the Rhinegau. HATTERHEIM— An important parish of the Rhinegau in which stands the Kloster Eberbach. The finest vineyards of Hattenheim are those of Steinberg. HAUT-BAGES (Chateau)— Pauillac ; Sth Growth of the Medoc (Claret). HAUT-BAILLY (Chateau)— Leognan ; Graves (Claret). HAUT-BRION (Chateau)— Pessac ; 1st Growth Graves ; 100 tuns Claret. Also a little white wine. HAUT-BRION-LA-MISSION (Chateau)— See La Mission-Haut-Brion (Chateau). [187]

HAUT-BRION-LARRIVET (Cru)— Leognan ; Graves ; 30 tuns Claret. HAUT-PEYRAGUEY (Clot)— Bommes ; 1st Growth Sauternes. HAUT-SAUTERNES— Merely a fancy appellation which does not cor­ respond to any geographical or administrative division of the Sauternes district. Usually covers a nondescript sweet wine when without any mention of a vineyard of origin or date of vintage ; sup­ posed to be of better quality than similar wines sold merely under the name of Sauternes. HERMITAGE— Red and white wines, but mostly red, from the vineyards of Tain ( D r o m e ) , upon the left bank of the River Rhone, opposite Tournon. HIPPOCRAS (IPOCRAS or YPOCRAS)— A highly prized beverage in olden times. It was made up o f wine, honey and spices and filtered through a woolen bag known as "Hippo­ crates' sleeve". HOCHHEIM— At the extreme limit (south) of the Rhinegau, not far from Wiesbaden, on the River Main, close to where it joins the Rhine. The wines of Hochheim are believed to be responsible for the name "Hock". HOCHHEIMER— An excellent Rhinewine. The name comes from the name of the town of Hochheim, where Hochheimer originated. HOCK— A name which has completely replaced, in Eng­ land, the older name "Rhenish". Under the designation "Hock" are included the wines o f the Rhinegau, Rhinehesse, Palatinate, and Franconia. Hocks are bottled in red bottles, brown or brick red, whilst Moselles are bottled in green or bluegreen bottles. [188]

HOLLANDS— A potable grain spirit rectified and flavoured with juniper, distilled in Holland ; it may be re­ garded as the Dutch equivalent of the London Gin. HOSPICES DE BEAUNE— A home for the aged and poor, founded in the fifteenth century, at Beaune, in Burgundy. Its chief income has been for centuries past, and still is, the sale of the wines from the vineyards be­ queathed from time to time to the Hospices. The wines of the Hospices are sold by auction every year. Genuine "Hospices de Beaune" wines, and of a good vintage, should always bear the name of the Cuvee ; that is to say, the name of the donor of the vineyard from which the wine offered for sale was made, as well as the name of the commune where such vineyards are situated. INFERNO— One of the best red wines of the Valtellina (Lombardy). ISSAN (Chateau)— Cantenac; 3rd Growth Medoc ; 80 tuns red wine. JEROBOAM— A double Magnum or four bottles. JOHANNISBERG— One of the most famous growths of the Rhine­ gau, between Winkel and Geisenheim, but higher up the hill, with a beautiful view over the Rhine and Rhinehesse beyond. The best wines of Johannisberg are those of the Schloss Johannisberg, and these are sold under different labels according to a carefully graded scale of excellence as follows : 1. Furst v. Metternichscher Cabinet Wine Schloss Johannisberg, Spatelese. 2. Furst v. Metternichscher Cabinet Wine Schloss Johannisberg, Auslese. 3. Furst v. Metternichscher Original Abfullung Schloss Johannisberg, Auslese. 4. Furst v. Metternichscher Original Abfullung Schloss Johannisberg (not Auslese). 5. Schloss Johannisberg, Wachstum Furst v. Metternich. [189]

Next to the Sckloss comes the Klaus Johannisberg, a growth always bearing the name of one of the proprietors among whom it is divided, such as the Royal Prussian Domains, Grad Schonborn, Kommerzierat Krayer Erden, etc. Plain Johannisberg, with the name of a grower, and whether "Auslese" or not, is never one of the best wines of Johannisberg, whilst the name Dorf Johannisberg usually covers the worst wine of the district. JOSEPHSHOFER— One of the best wines (white) of the Moselle, made from vineyards mostly in the parish of Graach. JULIENAS— One of the most important wine-producing dis­ tricts of the Beaujolais (France). JURANCON— A luscious orange-colour "Dessert" wine made from over-ripe grapes from vineyards near Pau. A very rare wine, hardly ever obtainable, if genuine, from the trade, as there is so little made. KEKNYELU— The best white wine from the Badacsony Hills (Hungary). KIRKTON— A noted New South Wales vineyard tralia) .

(Aus­

KIRSCH (or KIRSCHWASSER)— An Alsatian liqueur distilled from cherries, white, and with a strong flavour of cherry stones, that is to say of the bitter almond within the cherry stones. It is made in France, in Germany, Switzerland, England, Dalmatia, and other parts. The best known are made by Landauer & Macholl, Heilbronn (13% u.p.); Pernod, Couvet (24% u. p.) ; J. H. Secrestat Aine, Bordeaux (21% u. p) ; and Cusenier, Charenton. KIRWAN (Chateau)— Cantenac; 3rd Growth Medoc (Claret). [190]

KONIGSBACH— One of the finest Growths of the Palatinate (Germany). KREUZNACH— The most important wine-producing centre of the Nahe Valley. Mostly white wines. KRONE VON BERNCASTEL— One of the finest of Moselle wines. LAFAURIE-PEYRAGUEY (Chateau)— Bommes ; 1st Growth Sauternes ; 30 tuns white wine. LA CONSEILLANTE— 1st Growth Pomerol (Claret). LA DOMINIQUE (Chateau)— 1st Growth Graves de St. Emilion (Claret). LA FLEUR (Chateau)— 1st Growth Pomerol (Claret). LA FLEUR-PETRUS (Chateau)— 1st Growth Pomerol (Claret). LAFITE or LAFITE-ROTHSCHILD (Chateau)— Pauillac ; 1st Growth Medoc ; 180 tuns red wine. There was no "Chateau Bottling" at Lafite during the years 1885 to 1905 inclusive. LA GAFFELIERE-NAUDES (Chateau)— 1st Growth St. Emilion (Claret). LAGRANGE (Chateau)— St. Julien; 3rd Growth Medoc (Claret). LAGRIMA CRISTI, or LACHRYMA CHRISTI— Red and white wines of Vesuvius wineyards (Italy). LA LAGUNE (Chateau)— Ludon ; 3rd Growth Medoc (Claret). LA LOUVIERE (Chateau)— Leognan ; 1st Growth Graves. white wines. [191]

Both red and

LA MADELEINE (Chateau)— 1st Growth St. Emilion (Claret). LA MISSION-HAUT-BRION Pessac; 1st Growth Graves

(Chateau)— (Claret).

LA MOUTONNE— One of the best known registered brands of Chablis ; formerly one of the best vineyards of Chablis. LANGOA-BARTON (Chateau)— St. Julien ; 3rd Growth Medoc (Claret). N o "Chateau Bottling". LANGOIRAN— Entre-deux-Mers (Gironde). Both red and white wines of moderate quality. LAROSE See

(Chateau)—

Gruaud-Larose-Faure

and

Gruaud-Larose-

Sarget. LAROSE-PERGANSON (Chateau)— Bourgois ; St. Laurent, Medoc (Claret). LAROSE-TRINTAUDON (Chateau)— Bourgois ; St. Laurent, Medoc (Claret). LASCOMBES (Chateau de)— Margaux ; 2nd Growth Medoc (Claret). LA TACHE— See Romanee. LATOUR (Chateau)— Pauillac ; 1st Growth Medoc (Claret). LA TOUR (Chateau)— Martillac ; Graves. Red and white wines. LA-TOUR-BLANCHE (Chateau)— Bommes ; 1st Growth Sauternes. LA TOUR-CARNET (Chateau)— St. Laurent ; 4th Growth Medoc (Claret). LA TOUR-FIGEAC (Chateau)— 1st Growth Graves de St. Emilion (Claret). LAUJAC (Chateau)— Begadan ; Bourgeois ; Medoc (Claret). [192]

LAURENTIUSBERG— The best vineyard of Trittenheim (Moselle). LAYON (Coteaux du)— Some of the best white wines of the Maine-etLoire Departement ( A n j o u ) . The best wines of the Coteaux du Layon are those from the vineyards of the right bank of the Layon. LE CADET— 1st Growth St. Emilion (Claret). LE CLOS— One of the best vineyards of Chablis (France). LE DESERT— Leognan ; 1st Growth Graves (Claret). LEOBURG— A good Claret, especially adapted to ordinary table purposes. LEOVILLE-BARTON (Chateau)— St. Julien ; 2nd Growth Medoc (Claret). "Chateau Bottling".

No

LEOVILLE-LASCASES (Chateau)— St. Julien ; 2nd Growth Medoc (Claret). There was no "Chateau Bottling" after 1875, until 1907. LEOVILLE-POYFERRE (Chateau)— St. Julien ; 2nd Growth Medoc (Claret). There was no "Chateau Bottling" between 1894 and 1910 inclusive. LE PRIEURE (Chateau)— Cantenac ; 4th Growth Medoc (Claret). LE TERTRE (Chateau)— Arsac; 5th Growth Medoc (Claret). L'EVANGILE (Cru) — 1st Growth; Pomerol (Claret). LIEBFRAUENSTIFT (Rhlnehesse)— The best and most reliable white wine of Worms. LIEBFRAUMILCH (Rhlnehesse)— Formerly the white wine of Worms vineyards ; now merely a name which carries no guarantee [193]

of origin or quality. The genuine wine of the Liebfrauenkirche vineyards, near Worms, are sold under the name of Liebfrauenstift. LIESER (Moselle Valley)— Berncastel district. Very good white wines. LILYDALE— One of the best wine-producing districts of Vic­ toria (Australia). LIMOUX— A small place near Carcassonne, in France, noted for a peculiar, unracked, semi-sparkling wine, known as Blanquette De Limoux. LIQUEUR BRANDY— A Brandy, i. e. distilled wine, of an age and quality that warrant its being enjoyed "neat", and is not to be served for brandy-and-soda. LIQUEUR DE LA VIELLE CURE— A high-class French liqueur distilled at Cenon. LIQUEUR D'OR— A sweet golden French liqueur. LICTRAC— A well known wine-producing parish of the Medoc (Claret). LIVRAN (Chateau)— Bourgeois; St. Germain d'Esteuil (Claret). LODGES— The above-ground stores where Port is matured at Oporto, Villa Nova de Gaya, and elsewhere. The equivalent of the Bordeaux Chais and Jerez Bodegas. LOUDENNE (Chateau)— Saint-Yzans ; Bourgeois ; Medoc (Claret). LUNEL— One of the best unfortified dessert wines of the Languedoc (France). LYNCH-BAGES and LYNCH-MOUSSAS Chateau)— Pauillac. Two of the 5th Growths of the Medoc (Claret). [194]

MACON— The metropolis of the Cote Maconnaise, which produces much red and white wines (Burgundy). MADEIRA— A fortified wine which owes its excellence to the grapes from which it is made, to the way in which it is made, and to the climate of the island of Madeira, where it is made. Madeira is not necessarily a sweet wine : Sercial Madeira has a distinctly dry finish; Bual Madeira is rich; and Malmsey Madeira is the sweetest of all. MAGNUM— A two-quart bottle used for wine or spirit. MALAGA— Malaga is one of the best sweet wines made in Spain. It comes from the province of Eastern Andalusia, and is shipped from the Port of Malaga. It is a blend of new wine and old wine, known as Vino Tierno or Vine Maestro, and a dark, sweet wine known as Vino De Color. The best wine of Malaga is made from the Muscatelle grapes and known as Lagrima, which is made in very much the same manner as Tokay. MALESCOT-SAINT-EXUPERY (Chateau)— Margaux; 3rd Growth Medoc (Claret). MALMSEY or MALVASIA— A sweet, fortified wine made in Madeira, Cyprus, the Canary Islands, and other southern vineyards from the Malvasia grape—when available. MALVOISIE— French for Malmsey. MANDARIN— A French aperitif with a bitter orange flavour and dark brown in colour. MANDARIN— A French liqueur with a tangerine flavour. MANZANILLA— The best Sherry of the Sar Lucar vineyards, west of Jerez-de-la-Frontera. It is, or should be, [195]

pale of colour, dry of finish, and with a peculiar and attractive crab-apple flavour, hence its name of Manzanilla (small apples). MARC— A spirit distilled from the husks of grapes or the pulp of apples after the wine or cider has been made. Usually distilled at a very high strength, it requires many years to become toler­ ably palatable. MARCOBRUNNEN— One of the most famous growths of the Rhine­ gau, in the parishes of Hattenheim and Erbach. Fine white wine ( H o c k ) . MARGAUX— One of the most important wine-producing Communes of the M e d o c The following Chateaux are in the Commune of Margaux : Chateau Margaux, 1st Growth. Chateau Rausan-Segla, 2nd Growth. Chateau Rausan-Gassies, 2nd Growth. Chateau Dufort-Vivens, 2nd Growth. Chateau de Lascombes, 2nd Growth. Chateau Malescot-St.-Exupery, 3rd Growth. Chateau Ferriere, 3rd Growth. Chateau Marquis-d'Alesme-Becker, 3rd Growth. Cru Boyd-Cantenac, 3rd Growth. Chateau Marquis-de-Terme, 4th Growth. The Commune of Margaux produces a great many wines of more ordinary yet good quality which are sold merely under the name of "Mar­ gaux". The same class of wine made in the ad­ joining Communes of Cantenac, Arsac, Soussans, Labarde, and Avensan have acquired by long usage the right to be sold under the name of the better known name of the Commune of Margaux. MARGAUX (Chateau)— 1st Growth Medoc; ISO tuns red wine (Grand Vin), and 40 tuns of the next best red wine which used to be sold under the label "Le PavillonRouge-Margaux". Since 1924 a white wine sold as Margaux-Pavillon-Blanc is made from white grapes which have replaced the vines formerly producing the Pavilion Rouge. [196]

MARSALA— The best, and best known, dessert wine of Italy ; it is made from grapes grown in Sicily, between Palermo and Messina, north and south of Marsala. MAVRODAPHNE— A sweet dessert wine from Patras (Greece). MEDOC— A strip of land barely fifty miles long and six miles wide, along the left bank of the Gironde, responsible for the output of about half the quan­ tity of really fine red wines produced in the world. MENDOZA— The most important wine-producing district of the Argentine. MERCUREY— One of the best and largest vineyards of the Cote Chalonnaise, Burgundy. Both red and white wines ; mostly red. MEURSAULT— One of the chief Communes of the Cote d'Or for white Burgundy. MILLESIME— Vintage date. MONASTINE— A French liqueur, lemon yellow in colour, and somewhat similar in flavour to the Yellow Char­ treuse. MONTHELIE— Cote de Beaune. Good red Burgundy. MONTIBEUX (Clos d e ) — One of the good Swiss wines from the Valais. MONTILLA— A light and dry Sherry from the vineyards of the Montilla Hills in Andalusia. MONTRACHET ( L e ) — The finest white Burgundy ; 1st Growth PulignyMontrachet (Cote d ' O r ) . MONTRACHETS ( L e s ) — Le Chevalier Montrachet ; Le Batard Mon[197]

trachet; also some 1st Growth and 2nd Growths Chassagne-Montrachet (Cote d ' O r ) . MONTROSE (Chateau)— St. Estephe ; 2nd Growth Medoc (Claret). MOSELLE— The wines known in England under the name of Moselle are those of the Mittelmosel, from Schweich to Traben-Trabach ; of the Untermosel, from Enkirch to Coblence, and from the valleys of the Ruwer and of the Saar, two tributaries of the Moselle. They are always sold in green or blue-green bottles. MOULIN-A-VENT— The best and best known red wine of Beaujolais (Burgundy), from vineyards partly in the Com­ mune of Chenas and partly in that of RomanecheThorins. There are thirty-two named vineyards the wines of which are entitled to the name of Moulin-a-Vent Grand Cru. MOULIS— One of the wine-producing Communes of the Medoc. Some of the wines of Moulis are also sold under the name of the adjoining Commune o f Listrac. MOUSSEUX— The French for "sparkling". Vins Mousseux means, according to French law, any and every sparkling wine, except Champagne, the prototype of all sparkling wines, and the only one entitled to the name Champagne. MOUT— French for "must", or unfermented grape juice. MOUTON-D'ARMAILHACQ

(Chateau)—

Pauillac ; 5th Growth Medoc (Claret). MOUTON-ROTHSCHILD (Chateau)— (Formerly Chateau Brane-Mouton.) Pauillac, 2nd Growth Medoc (Claret). MUSCATEL (Sparkling)— A cheap sweet wine, usually flavoured with an essence o f elderberry flowers. [198]

MUSIGNY (Les)— The most famous vineyards o f ChambolleMusigny, Cote d'Or. T h e y produce chiefly red wines o f v e r y fine quality; also a little g o o d white wine.

MUST— Grape juice b e f o r e it has fermented and become wine. T r u e w i n e is made f r o m the must of freshly pressed grapes, but methods have been devised f o r sterilizing, evaporating or treating must in such a w a y that its fermentation is prevented and the must can be imported as grape juice, which escapes heavy duties placed on wine. Such must is used f o r producing British wines after fermentation has been produced by adding yeast to it.

NATURE— T h e term applied t o Champagne shipped w i t h out any added sweetening liqueur.

NEBBIOLO— One of the best red wines of Piedmont

(Italy).

NENIN (Chateau)— lst G r o w t h P o f e r o l

(Claret).

NIERSTEIN (Rhinehesse)— Oppenheim district. T h e most important wineproducing parish o f Rhinehesse. I t produces much white wine, some o f which is o f v e r y fine quality.

NIP— H a l f a reputed Pint, o r 1/24 o f an Imperial gallon. A Nip o f Champagne is known in the wine trade as a quarter bottle, or as a " B a b y " . N O V A L (Quinta d o ) — One of the finest Quintas o f the A l t o D o u r o

(Portugal). NOYAU—

A French liqueur, now also made in London, A m s t e r d a m and elsewhere f r o m the kernel of the cherry stones. I t has a nutty flavour o f bitter almonds, and is rather sweet. T h e r e are t w o s o r t s : the white and the pink. [199]

NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES— One o f the most important Cote d ' O r ( B u r g u n d y ) .

Communes o f the

OBEREMMEL (Saar Valley) — Saarburg district.

W h i t e wine.

OBERNAL— Alsace.

W h i t e wine.

OCKFEN— Saar V a l l e y . Bockstein.

OLIVIER

T h e best

wine

of

Ockfen

is

(Chateau)—

Leognan; Graves; white wine.

100 tuns

red and 12 tuns

OLOROSO— One o f the most popular types o f full-bodied, dark, and rather sweet Sherries ( S p a i n ) .

OPPENHEIM (Rhinehesse)— Between M a y e n c e and W o r m s .

W h i t e wine.

ORVIETO— O n e o f the best w h i t e wines o f U m b r i a ; some is dry and others rather sweet (Italy).

OSTRICH— O n e o f the most important wine-producing parishes o f the Rhinegau. W h i t e wine.

OXYGENEE— A

sort o f Absinthe

in all but the name.

PAARL— One

of

the best

wine-producing

Cape Province (South Africa). PALMER (Chateau)— Margaux-Cantenac ;

(Claret). PALUS—

3rd

districts

Growth

of

Medoc

T h e l o w - l y i n g vineyards of the Gironde p r o ducing the cheaper types of Claret ( F r a n c e ) .

PAPE-CLEMENT (Chateau)— P e s s a c ; l s t G r o w t h Graves [200]

(Claret).

PARFAIT AMOUR— A

French liqueur.

PAUILLAC— O n e of the most important wine-producing Communes of the M e d o c . T h e f o l l o w i n g classed g r o w t h s o f the M e d o c are in the Commune of Pauillac : Chateaux Lafite and Latour, t w o o f the three lst G r o w t h s . Chateau Mouton-Rothschild, 2nd G r o w t h . Chateau de P i c h o n - L o n g u e v i l l e , 2nd G r o w t h . Chateau de P i c h o n - L o n g u e v i l l e - L a l a n d e , 2nd Growth. Chateau D u h a r t - M i l o n , 4th G r o w t h . Chateau Pontet-Canet, Sth G r o w t h . Chateau Batailley, 5th G r o w t h . Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse, 5th G r o w t h . Chateau G r a n d - P u y - L a c o s t e , Sth G r o w t h . Chateau L y n c h - B a g e s , 5th G r o w t h . Chateau Lynch-Moussas, 5th G r o w t h . T h e ordinary red wines o f the Communes of Pauillac have acquired, b y long usage, the right t o be sold under the better known name of the adjoining Commune o f St. Julien.

PAVIE (Chateau)— lst Growth St. E m i l i o n ( C l a r e t ) . T h e vineyards of Chateau P a v i e are divided between t w o owners, P o r t e and Macquin, w h o sell their wine as P a v i e - P o r t e and P a v i e - M a c q u i n .

PAXARETTE or PAJARETTE— A v e r y sweet w i n e made in the Jerez and used mostly f o r sweetening Sherry.

district,

PECHEUSE— A

Peach Brandy, dark golden in colour.

PEDESCLAUX (Chateau)— P a u i l l a c ; Sth G r o w t h M e d o c (Claret).

PEPPERMINT— A variety o f Creme de Menthe; a name adopted by Get Freres in France, and some o f the London distillers. [201]

PETRUS (Chateau)— lst Growth Pomerol

(Claret).

PICHON-LONGUEVILLE (Chateau)— P a u i l l a c ; 2nd G r o w t h M e d o c

(Claret).

PICHON-LONGUEVILLE-LA LANDE (Chateau de)— P a u i l l a c ; 2nd G r o w t h M e d o c (Claret). T h e r e has been a "Chateau B o t t l i n g " every year since 1899 with the exception o f 1901 and 1902.

PIESPORT— (Moselle wines.

Valley)

Wittlich

district;

fine

white

PINARD— French slang f o r

Wine.

POMEROL— T h e vineyards a r e situated upon a small plateau between L i b o u r n e and St. Emilion, and generally c o m e under the heading o f St. Emilion. Among Petrus, the best wines o f P o m e r o l a r e those o f La Fleur, La Conseillante, Trotanoy, etc. All red wines.

POMMARD— O n e o f the m o r e important Communes o f the Cote d ' O r , chiefly renowned f o r its red wines (Burgundy).

PONTET-CANET (Chateau)— P a u i l l a c ; 5th G r o w t h M e d o c ; 200 tuns r e d wine. T h e r e is no "Chateau B o t t l i n g " o f P o n t e t Canet.

PORT— P o r t is a w i n e made f r o m grapes g r o w n in t h e valley o f t h e D o u r o , fortified at the vintage time and shipped f r o m O p o r t o .

POUILLY— A Commune o f the Saone-et-Loire, next t o Fuisse, which produces some v e r y fair w h i t e Burgundy, most o f which is sold under the name of Pouilly-Fuisse. [202]

POUILLY-SUE-LOIRE— A Commune o f the N i e v r e ( L o i r e V a l l e y ) which produces some quite distinctive white wines which enjoy, locally, a reputation which has not yet reached the rest of the w o r l d . POUJET (Chateau)—' Cantenac; 4th G r o w t h M e d o c

(Claret).

POUSSE CAFE— A n after-dinner drink usually several different liqueurs.

compounded

of

PRUNELLE— A French liqueur, pale with the flavour o f sloes.

green

in

colour,

and

PRUNELLE DE BOURGOGNE— A French liqueur possessing properties.

valuable

digestive

PURL— A n old-fashioned English winter drink. I t used to be made up of a m i x t u r e of A l e and Beer with Gin and Bitters. T h e Gin and Bitters are first put into a pint pewter pot ; the Ale is w a r m e d o v e r a brisk fire and poured into the pot when w a r m enough f o r the drinker to be able t o toss the whole d o w n at a single draught.

QUARTS DE CHAUME— O n e o f the best wines of the Coteaux De Layon, white wines of A n j o u , chiefly f r o m the vineyards of, and around about, Beaulieu-sur-Layon and Rochefort-sur-Loire.

QUETSCH— A n Alsatian liqueur, white in colour, and with the flavour of the Quetsch, a purple plum much g r o w n in Alsace.

QUINCY FUME— A

notable white wine of

Berry

(France).

QUINTA— Portuguese for "farm", equivalent to the " C h a t e a u x " o f Bordeaux. Boa Vista, Noval, Roriz are among the best renowned quintas o f the Douro. [203]

RABAUD-PROMIS (Chateau)— Bommes; lst Growth

Sauternes.

RABAUD-SIGALAS (Chateau)— Bommes; lst Growth

Sauternes.

RABINOWKA— A Baltic liqueur, pink in colour and w i t h flavour o f the r o w a n b e r r y .

the

RAINWATER— A M a d e i r a first introduced by M r . Habisham o f Savannah, U . S . A . , w h o had a w a y of treating his M a d e i r a s so as to render them lighter in colour and body. S o m e g o o d judges p r e f e r r e d "Rainwater" or "Habisham" Medeiras to all others, but many considered it an acquired taste.

RASPAIL— A French liqueur possessing valuable properties.

digestive

RATAFIA— Generic term used t o describe various f o r m s liqueurs, chiefly flavoured w i t h fruits.

of

RAUENTHAL— Rhinegau.

W h i t e wines o f v e r y fine quality.

RAUSAN-SEGLA (Chateau)— 2nd G r o w t h M e d o c ; "Chateau B o t t l i n g " .

Margaux

(Claret).

No

RAUZAN-GASSIES (Chateau)— 2nd G r o w t h M e d o c ; M a r g a u x

(Claret).

RAYNE-VIGNEAU (Chateau)— Bommes; lst Growth

Sauternes.

RHEINGAU (Angl. Rhinegau)— T h e vine-clad hills, on the right bank of the Rhine, opposite Bingen, f r o m Rudesheim t o H o c h heim, which produces the finest H o c k s . T h e best wines o f the R h e i n g a u are those o f Johannisberg, Steinberg, Volrads, Rudesheim, Geisenheim, W i n k e l , Mittelheim, Oestrich, Hattenheim, M a r c o brunnen, Erbach, Eltville, and Rauenthal.

RHEINHESSEN (Angl. Rhinehesse) —

A n important w i n e district on the l e f t bank o f [204]

the river, which produces a larger quantity o f H o c k s than any other, some being v e r y fine and others only f a i r in quality. T h e best known wines o f Rhinehesse are those o f Niersteiner and L i e b fraumilch.

RHEINPFALZ (Angl. Palatinate)— A n important wine-producing district bank o f the R h i n e responsible f o r the o f the most luscious o f all H o c k s . g r o w t h s o f the Palatinate are those heim, Forst, Durkheim, W a c h e n h e i m , pertsberg.

on the l e f t production T h e best o f Diedesand R u p -

RIBEAUVILLE— W h i t e A l s a c e wine.

RICHEBOURG (Les)— S o m e o f the best vineyards and most renowned wines of V o s n e - R o m a n e e , Cote d ' O r ( B u r g u n d y ) .

RICHON-LE-ZION ("First In Zlon")— O n e o f the most important vineyards estine, about eight miles south o f Jaffa.

of

Pal-

RIEUSSEC (Chateau)— F a r g u e s ; l s t G r o w t h Sauternes.

RIOJA— T h e best wines, mostly red, made in the P r o v ince o f A r a g o n , and the best table wines o f Spain.

RIQUEWIHR—

A l s a c e w h i t e wines. O n e o f the best estates o f R i q u e w i h r is the Clos Du Moulin (Domaines

Dopff). RIVESALTES—

T h e best white, sweet, dessert wine o f sillon ( F r a n c e ) .

Rous-

ROCHECORBON—

O n e o f the best wine-producing the V o u v r a y district ( T o u r a i n e ) .

Communes

of

ROCHET (Chateau)—

St. E s t e p h e ; 4th G r o w t h M e d o c

ROMANEE CONTI—

(Claret).

T h e best vineyard o f V o s n e - R o m a n e e , Cote d ' O r (Burgundy). [205]

ROMANEE (La)— O n e o f the best vineyards o f Vosne-Romanee, Cote d ' O r (Burgundy).

ROMANEE LA TACHE— O n e o f the best vineyards o f Cote d ' O r (Burgundy).

Vosne-Romanee,

ROMANEE SAINT-VIVANT— T h e largest but not the best o f the four anee vineyards, Vosne-Romanee, Cote (Burgundy).

Romd'Or

RORIZ (Quinta de)— O n e o f the finest vineyards o f the U p p e r D o u r o

(Port). ROSE (Vin)—

P i n k wine. T h e best natural V i n R o s e is that o f T a v e l ( R h o n e Valley), but Vins Roses are made elsewhere, both still and sparkling, either w i t h red grapes, which a r e not l e f t long t o f e r ment on their husks, o r white wines coloured w i t h cochineal.

ROYAL-MEDOC— A registered " s e c o n d " wine Medoc.

brand, under which is sold the o f Chateau Cantemerle, Macau,

RUBY— T h e colour and name o f a P o r t wine darker than the T a w n y P o r t and lighter than V i n t a g e Port.

RUDESHEIM— O n e o f the most important and best known o f the Rhinegau parishes producing a large quantity o f fine white wines (Hocks).

RULLY— W h i t e Burgundy f r o m

Saone-et-Loire.

RUPPERTSBERG— wine-producing O n e o f the most important parishes o f the Palatinate (Hocks).

RUTHERGLEN— R e d wine from

Australia. [206]

SAAR— A tributary o f the M o s e l l e . T h e largest o f the Saar wine-producing parishes is W i l t i n g e n , the finest vineyards o f which are those of Scharzhofberg, K u p p , and D o h r . O t h e r fine Saar wines are those of Ayl ( K u p p , H e r r e n b e r g , and N e u b e r g ) ; Canzem ( A l t e n b e r g , H o r e k e r , U n t e r b e r g ) ; Ockfen (Bockstein, H e r r e n b e r g , G e i s b e r g ) ; Saarburg ( M u h l e n b e r g , Layenkarl, R a u s c h ) ; Serrig (Vogelsang, Wurzburg, Saarstein) ; Wawern ( H e r r e n b e r g , Jesuitenberg) ; and Oberemmel.

SAARBURG— T h e chief t o w n o f the Saar ( R h e i n p r o v i n z ) . W h i t e wines. Best vineyards : Muhlenberg, L a y e n karl, Rausch.

SAINT-AVERTIN— O n e o f the best red wines of

Touraine.

SAINT-BRIS (Chateau)— Villenave d'Ornon; tuns white wines.

G r a v e s ; 6 tuns red and 8

SAINT-CHRISTOLY (Chateau)— S t . C h r i s t o l y - d e - M e d o c ; Cru red wine.

Artisan ; 30 tuns

SAINTE-CROIX-DU-MONT— A Commune of the E n t r e - D e u x - M e r s (Gir o n d e ) , on the right bank o f the Garonne, facing the Sauternes country, which produces some v e r y pleasing white wines, comparable to those of Sauternes in sweetness, but not in breed, nor in the matter o f price.

SAINT-ELIE— T h e best known wine o f the island of (Greece).

Santorin

SAINT-EMILION— O n the right bank o f the R i v e r D o r d o g n e , above Libourne, St. E m i l i o n is surrounded by e x tensive vineyards w h i c h run into some fifteen different parishes, but all the w i n e they produce is known as St. E m i l i o n wine. [207]

T h e finest w i n e o f St. Emilion is that of Chateau Ausone. A m o n g the best estates o f the district are the f o l l o w i n g C h a t e a u x : Belair-Marignan Grandes Murialles Madeleine Canon Fourtet Beausejour Fonplegade Cure-Bon-La-Madeleine St. G e o r g e s - C o t e - P a v i e Pavie Pavie-Macquin Tertre-Daugay

Villemaurine L e Cadet-Bon Soutard Troplong-Mondot L a Gaffeliere-Naudes Coutet Bellevue Fonroque Canon-La-Gaffeliere

Some of the St. Emilion vineyards, the soil o f which is a m i x t u r e o f sand and gravel, are known as " G r a v e s de St. E m i l i o n " . T h e y produce a slightly different style o f wines, the best and most typical being the wines of Chateau Cheval-Blanc. T h e other best known estates o f the Graves de St. Emilion are the f o l l o w i n g C h a t e a u x : Figeac La Tour-Figeac L a Dominique Ripeau

La Tour-du-Pin-Figeac Lamarzelle

SAINT-ESTHEPHE— O n e o f the most important wine-producing Communes o f the M e d o c , in which are situated the f o l l o w i n g classed g r o w t h s : Cos d'Estournel, 2nd G r o w t h . Chateau M o n t r o s e , 2nd G r o w t h . Chateau Rochet, 4th G r o w t h . Cos L a b o r y , 5th G r o w t h .

SAINT-GEORGES (Les)— Some of the best vineyards of the Commune o f Nuits-Saint-Georges ( C o t e d ' O r ) .

SAINT-JULIEN— One of the most important wine-producing Communes o f the M e d o c . T h e f o l l o w i n g classed g r o w t h s o f the M e d o c are in the Commune of Saint-Julien : Chateau Leoville-Lascases, [208]

Chateau L e o v i l l e - P o y f e r r e , Chateau Leoville-Barton, Chateau Gruaud-Larose-Sarget, Chateau Ducru-Beucaillon, being six 2nd Growths. Chateau L a g r a n g e , Chateau Langoa, both being 3rd Growths. Chateau St. P i e r r e - B o n t e m p s , Chateau St. Pierre-Sevaistre, Chateau Branaire-Ducru, Chateau T a l b o t , Chateau Beychevelle, five o f the 4th Growths.

SAINT-PERAY— One o f the wine-producing Communes of the A r d e c h e ( R h ô n e V a l l e y ) that has been famous f o r centuries past f o r its white wines, both still and sparkling.

SAINT-PIERRE-BONTEMPS St. Julien; 4th G r o w t h M e d o c

(Chateau)— (Claret).

SAINT-PIERRE-DE-MONS— A Commune o f the Gironde, some eight miles t o the east-north-east of Sauternes, renowned f o r its w h i t e wines, which a r e n o w l e g a l l y entitled t o the name of Sauternes.

SAINT-PIERRE-SEVAISTRE St. Julien; 4th G r o w t h M e d o c

(Chateau)— (Claret).

SAINT-POURCAIN— A Commune o f the A l l i e r ( L o i r e V a l l e y ) famous for its still white wines ; the white wines o f the adjoining villages o f Louchy, Saulcet, and M o n t o r d are also sold under the better known name of St. Pourcain.

SAMOS—

O n e o f the Greek islands producing some o f the most popular tawny dessert wines sold in H o l l a n d .

SANCERRE (Chateau de)—

T h e best advertised w h i t e wine o f the Cher Departement (Berry). I t is sold in bottles quite distinctive in shape but not up to standard size. [209]

SAN GEMIGNANO— One o f the best red Italian wines

(Chianti).

SAN SILVESTRO— A pale green liqueur distilled by the Aurum Distillery and well known in I t a l y as Centerbe (Hundred H e r b s ) .

SANTENAY— One of the lesser Communes o f the Cote d'Or, the best vineyard o f which is known as L e s Gravieres.

SANTENOTS BLANCS, SANTENOTS DESSOUS, and SANTENOTS DU MILIEU (Les)— Some of Cote d ' O r .

the

best

vineyards

of

Meursault,

SASSELLA— O n e of the best (Lombardy).

red

wines

of

the

Valtellina

SAUMUR— T h e chief city o f the chief wine-producing part o f the old P r o v i n c e o f A n d j o u ; it is the centre of vineyards which produce an abundance o f white wines and a little red wine. Some o f the white wines are quite suitable f o r the making o f sparkling wines, but the best white wines of the district are made into still wines.

SAUTERNES— T h e Sauternes district comprises not only the vineyards o f the Commune of Sauternes, but those o f the adjoining Communes o f Bommes, Barsac, Preignac, and Fargues. The Sauternes district adjoins that of Graves, but its soil is entirely different and the species o f grapes cultivated in the vineyards o f Sauternes are also entirely different. T h e y are w h i t e grapes which are picked o v e r ripe, and f r o m which is made the most marvelous o f all naturally sweet wines. The lst

finest Sauternes are the Growths: [210]

following:

Chateau Chateau Chateau Chateau Chateau Chateau Chateau Chateau Chateau

L a Tour-Blanche ( B o m m e s ) . L a Faurie-Peyraguey ( B o m m e s ) . D e Rayne-Vigneau (Bommes). D e Suduiraut ( P r e i g n a c ) . Coutet ( B a r s a c ) . Climens ( B a r s a c ) . Bayle-Guiraud ( S a u t e r n e s ) . Rieussec ( F a r g u e s ) . Rabaud-Promis ( B o m m e s ) .

2nd

Growths: Chateau D e M y r a t ( B a r s a c ) . Chateau D o i s y ( B a r s a c ) . Chateau D ' A r c h e ( S a u t e r n e s ) . Chateau F i l h o t ( S a u t e r n e s ) . Chateau B r o u s t e t - N e r a c ( B a r s a c ) . Chateau Caillou ( B a r s a c ) . Chateau D e M a l l e ( P r e i g n a c ) . Chateau Suau (Barsac). Chateau R o m e r ( P r e i g n a c ) . Chateau L a m o t h e ( S a u t e r n e s ) . T h e white wines o f St. P i e r r e - d e - M o n s , a little t o the east o f L a n g o n , may now be sold as Sauternes.

SAVIGNY— One o f the Communes of the Cote d ' O r which produces much red Burgundy o f fair quality and some of outstanding merit, similar t o the wines o f the adjoining Communes o f A l o x e - C o r t o n and Pernand-Vergelesses. Its best vineyards are L e s Marconnets and L e s Jarrons.

SCHARZBERG— One o f the best white wines of the Saar V a l l e y (Germany).

SCHARZHOFBERG— T h e best (Germany).

white

wine

of

the

Saar

Valley

SCHIEDAM— T h e Dutch distillery centre, the name o f is synonymous t o Hollands o r Schnapps.

which

SCHILLERWEIN— T h e more

ordinary b e v e r a g e wines, chiefly [211]

of

W u r t t e m b e r g and Baden, light red in colour, usually made of both black and w h i t e grapes mixed in the pressing, and drunk when quite young, drawn f r o m the cask.

SCHLOSS— German f o r " c h a t e a u " or castle. T h e t w o most famous castles o f the Rhinegau are Schloss Johannisberg and Schloss V o l l r a d s .

SEDIMENT— A collection of small solid particles found in the bottom of the bottles of many fine wines. T h e presence o f sediment in fine old wines is an indication that the wine has aged properly and is a natural product o f the wine. I t is a factor in enabling the wine to effect its proper mellowing, and its acquisition of a distinctive flavour.

SEKT— German f o r

"sparkling

wine".

SERCIAL— T h e name o f the M a d e i r a w i n e which is the most distinctive, having a v e r y remarkable dry finish as well as breed and power. T h e best Sercial Madeira is made f r o m the Sercial grape, a species which is now becoming quite rare.

SERRIG—

Saar V a l l e y .

White

wine.

SEYSSEL— T h e name o f t w o villages separated by the Rhone, the one H a u t e Savoie, on the left bank of the R h o n e ; the other in the A i n Departement. Both are surrounded by vineyards, the best wine of which is known as Roussette, the best Roussette being that which is made in the A i n . Some of the white wines of the district are sold as sparkling wines.

SHERRY— S h e r r y is made f r o m white grapes g r o w n in the Jerez district, in the south o f Spain. T h e best pale, dry, delicate Sherries are usually those sold under the names of Amontillado, Fino Vino De Pasto, and Manzanilla. [212]

T h e best dark, rich and full Sherries are usually those sold under the names o f Oloroso and Amoroso.

SIGALAS-RABAUD

(Chateau)—

B o m m e s ; l s t G r o w t h Sauternes; 35 tuns white wine.

SILLERY— A Commune of the M a r n e ( C h a m p a g n e ) which was made famous by its wines, still and sparkling, a v e r y long time ago.

SMITH-HAUT-LAFITTE Martillac;

Graves

(Chateau)—

(Claret).

SODA— Carbonated water.

SOLEIL DE SIERRE— A noted Vin de Paille (Switzerland).

f r o m Sierre in the Valais

SOLERA— Spanish f o r " b l e n d " o r " v a t t i n g " . A Sherry described as " S o l e r a 1860", f o r instance, is, or should be, a w i n e f r o m a vat first laid down in 1860 ; it is a blend o f wines of which the oldest dates back t o 1860.

SOMERSET WEST (South Africa)— A

wine-producing district o f

Cape P r o v i n c e .

SOMLAI FURMINT— O n e of the best w h i t e wines o f Somlo ( H u n g a r y ) .

SOMLAUER

AUSLESE—

T h e usual description o f the white S o m l o wine (Hungary).

SOMLO— T h e best white wine district o f

Hungary.

SOUTH AFRICA— T h e oldest South A f r i c a n vineyards are those nearest to Cape T o w n , at and near W y n b e r g , but the finest stretch of vineyards is further inland, f r o m French H o e k to W e l l i n g t o n , along the P a a r l V a l l e y , and in the Stellenbosch district close by. [213]

Further inland still, at W o r c e s t e r , Robertson, Montagu, Ladysmith and Oudtshoorn, l a r g e r quantities o f w i n e are obtained f r o m grapes g r o w n o n richer soil, but wine o f inferior quality.

SPARKLING WINES, i.e., Effervescent Wines— A U sparkling wines o w e their effervescence to the presence o f carbonic acid gas which, in the act o f escaping out o f the bottle, once the cork has been removed, carry with them firm bubbles o f w i n e beaten up to a " f o a m " by the out-rushing carbon dioxide. T h e r e are t w o main categories of sparkling wines : firstly, those with their o w n carbonic acid gas in solution, o w i n g to the fermentation of the wine having been completed after b o t t l i n g ; secondly, those w i t h carbonic acid gas pumped into the bottle.

SPATLESE—

German f o r " l a t e vintaged", that is, a w i n e made f r o m the last grapes, and the ripest, t o be picked in a g o o d year.

SPIRITS (Potable)—

A l c o h o l i c liquids obtained by distillation f r o m some wholesome materials such as wine, in the case o f Brandy, sugar in the case of R u m , grain in the case of Gin and W h i s k y , rice in the case of A r r a c k and Sake, etc. I n all spirits the nature, but not the proportion o f ethyl alcohol is the same. T h e great differences between them all is due t o the by-products o r impurities, which v a r y according to the nature o f the " m a s h " or f e r mented liquid f r o m w h i c h . they w e r e distilled. Some o f those impurities can be, and often are, poisonous, but are present in quantities that are t o o small to be injurious. But spirits distilled f r o m potatoes, sawdust and all kinds o f other materials are usually rectified in such a w a y that they consist in the end o f m e r e l y ethyl alcohol and w a t e r , being tasteless_ and colourless and f r e e f r o m fusel oil and impurities.

SPRINGVALE—

One o f the best South Australia.

wine-producing [214]

districts

of

SPUMANTE— Italian f o r " s p a r k l i n g " o r

effervescent.

ST. CRISPIN— A white Bordeaux.

wine

from

the

Graves

district

near

ST. JULIEN— A g o o d Claret wine.

STEINBERG (Rhinegau)— T h e finest g r o w t h o f H a t t e n h e i m ; w h i t e wine. T h e best " S t e i n b e r g " is sold as " S t e i n b e r g Cabinet".

STEINWEIN— T h e white w i n e of W u r z b u r g , usually sold in Bocksbeutels ( B a v a r i a ) . Genuine Stein wine, or Steinwein, is the produce of the "Steinmantel" vineyards, north o f W u r z b u r g , about 350 acres in all.

STELLENBOSCH— One of the most important wine-producing districts of the Cape P r o v i n c e . N o t e d f o r its red and white wine and its Brandy.

SUAU (Chateau)— Barsac;

2nd

Growth

Sauternes.

SUDUIRAUT (Chateau)— P r e i g n a c ; l s t G r o w t h Sauternes.

SWEETS— T h e officiai designation, in licensing regulations, of English wines, alcoholic liquids made in E n g land f r o m weeds such as cowslips, dandelions, rhubarb, etc., and certain vegetables and fruit.

TAFIA— A potable spirit obtained f r o m the sugar cane; a f o r m of Rum.

TAIN—

A small t o w n on the l e f t bank of the Rhone, some t w e l v e miles north of Valence, outside which rise the H e r m i t a g e vineyards.

TALBOT-D'AUX (Chateau)—

St. J u l i e n ; 4th G r o w t h M e d o c [215]

(Claret).

TANGERINETTE— A French liqueur, red in colour, and with the flavour of T a n g e r i n e oranges.

TANGOA— A

T a n g e r i n e Brandy liqueur.

TAPPIT-HEN— Scotch bottle holding approximately three I m perial quarts or four and a half Reputed quarts.

TARRAGONA— T a r r a g o n a is the name o f a town of Catalonia, the second largest wine-producing province in Spain, with a yield of nearly 200 million gallons of wine every year. T a r r a g o n a is the name given to the best red wines of the P r o v i n c e of Catalonia; wines very dark in colour, the fermentation of which is checked by added Brandy—as with P o r t .

TART (Clos de)— T h e finest vineyard o f the Commune of Cote d'Or ( R e d B u r g u n d y ) .

Morey,

TATACHILLA— One o f the best vineyards of the Maclaren V a l e (South A u s t r a l i a ) .

TAVEL— A v i l l a g e on the right of the Rhone V a l l e y , the vineyards of which, together with those of the adjoining Commune of Lirac, produce the best Vin Rose of France.

TAWNY— The peculiar- brownish-red matured in wood.

colour

of

Ports

TENERIFFE— T h e most important of the seven Cape V e r d e Islands ; its vineyards produce a fair quantity o f wines, mostly white.

TENT, or ROTA TENT, or TINTILLA DE ROTA— T h e name of the darkest o f all Spanish red wines. Mostly used f o r communion wine and f o r blending with lighter red wines. [216]

TERMO— A light white " o r d i n a i r e " Portuguese wine f r o m vineyards close to Lisbon.

TERTRE (Chateau du)— 5th Growth

Medoc;

Arsac

(Claret).

TERTRE-DAUGAY (Chateau)— lst G r o w t h St. Emilion

(Claret).

TERTRE-DE—DAUGAY ( L e ) — lst G r o w t h St. Emilion

(Claret).

THURGAU— A minor wine-producing Canton o f Switzerland. Its best red wine is the Karthauser, g r o w n between Ittingen and W o r t h .

TICINO— One of the wine-producing Cantons o f S w i t z e r land. Both red and white wines o f moderate quality.

TOKAI— One of the lesser wine-producing districts of the Cape Peninsula, both red and w h i t e wines.

TOKAY— T h e best and best known w i n e o f Hungary. Tokaij Szamorodne is rather dry ; Tokaij Aszu is sweet, and Tokaij Essencia, or Tokay Essence, is the richest, best, and rarest. The Tokayer Ausbruch is the best value as a rule. A l l the better class T o k a y wines bear the name of the owner, or owners, of the vineyard f r o m which each particular wine was made, either the late Imperial Hapsburg domains, G r a f Esterhazy, Baron F e r dinand Maillot, and others.

TONNERRE— T h e principal centre of the wine trade of the Y o n n e Departement ( L o w e r B u r g u n d y ) , white wine.

TORO— T h e best red wine o f Z a m o r a

(Spain).

TORREDOS— One of the red wines of [217]

Greece.

TORRES VEDRAS— A n " o r d i n a r i e " Portuguese beverage wine f r o m the Parishes of Louvinha and M a f r a , near Lisbon.

TOUR (Chateau La)— See

Latour.

TOURAINE— One o f the fairest of the old provinces o f F r a n c e ; chiefly noted f o r its Chateaux and w i n e s ; the best known white wines of Touraine are those of V o u v r a y ; the best red wines those of Joue, Bourgueil, Chinon, and Saint-Aventin.

TOURNUS— of

O n e of the important wine-producing centres the Saone-et-Loire Departement ( B u r g u n d y ) .

TRABEN-TRARBACH— T w i n villages on opposite banks o f the M o s e l l e (Zell district). W h i t e wines. Best v i n e y a r d s : W u r z g a r t e n and Krauterhaus ( T r a b e n ) , Schlossberg, and H a l s b e r g ( T r a r b a c h ) .

TRANI— O n e o f the red wines of Apulia

(Italy).

TREBBIANO— O n e o f the best wine-making species of g r o w n in I t a l y .

grapes

TREVES (Moselle Valley)— T h e most interesting and oldest city o f the Moselle. W h i t e wines. Best v i n e y a r d s : N e u b e r g , Herrenber, K l o s t e r b e r g .

TRIPLE SEC—

A description of w h i t e Curacao used f o r a number of brands o f Curacaos.

TRITTENHEIM (Moselle Valley)—

T r e v e s district. W h i t e wines. Best vineyards : Laurentiusberg, N e u b e r g , W e i e r b a c h .

TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE—

German expression denoting the best wine made in a vintage year f r o m selected over-ripe berries.

TROIS-SIX—

A n i n f e r i o r Brandy mostly used for f o r t i f y i n g the cheaper descriptions o f fortified wines. [218]

TROPLONG-MONDOT (Chateau)— lst G r o w t h St. Emilion

TROTANOY (Chateau)— lst G r o w t h

Pomerol

(Claret).

(Claret).

TROTTEVIELLE (Chateau)— lst G r o w t h St. Emilion

(Claret).

TULBAGH— One o f

the important

wine-producing

districts

o f Cape Province (South Africa).

TUN—

A wine cask o f 252 wine gallons.

TUNIS—

P a r t o f French N o r t h e r n A f r i c a , producing some 25 million gallons of wine, mostly red, per annum.

TURKHEIM—

One o f the A l s a c e fair w h i t e wines.

Communes producing

some

TUSCANY—

T h e most important wine-producing o f Italy ; the home o f Chianti.

province

TWANN—

T h e best known wine-producing district o f the B e r n e Canton ( L a k e of S i e n n e ) , in Switzerland. Deep golden and full wines.

ULLAGE—

N o longer full. A n ullaged bottle o f wine is a bottle no longer full because the cork, being d e tective o r t o o old, has allowed some of the w i n e t o escape. A n ullaged cask o f wine is a cask no longer full because some o f the wine it contained has been lost or drawn without being replaced.

UNGSTEIN (Palatinate)—

Durkheim district. W h i t e and red wines, chiefly red. Best vineyards: Spielberg, Herrenberg, Kobnert, Nussriegel, and K r e u z .

UPENU—

T h e L a t v i a n name f o r Bocksbeeren (German).

Cassis

(French)

or

URZIG (Moselle Valley)—

W i t t l i c h district. W h i t e wines. Best vineyards : Kranklay, Wurzgarten, Maxberg. [219]

VAL DE PENAS— T h e best red wine of (Spain).

Manzanares, L a

Mancha

VALENCIA— Dark, Levante

red, rich (Spain).

wines

from

the

Province

of

VALMUR— W h i t e wine ; one of the g o o d g r o w t h s of Chablis.

VALWIG (Moselle Valley)— Cochem district ; white wines. Best vineyards : H e r r e n b e r g , Schwarzenberg, P a l m b e r g .

VAN DER HUM— T h e best liqueur made in South A f r i c a , its chief flavour being f r o m the N a r t j e , o r South A f r i c a n tangerine.

VAUCRAINS (Les)— O n e o f the best vineyards o f (Cote d ' O r ) .

Nuits-St. Georges

VAUDESIR— O n e o f the best vineyards o f

Chablis.

VAUGEOT— Burgundy wine.

VEDRINES (Chateau)— Barsac ; 2nd G r o w t h Sauternes ; 40 tuns white wine.

VERDELHO— O n e o f the w h i t e wines of M a d e i r a which used t o be made f r o m the V e r d e l h o grape, a species n o w all but extinct.

VERGELESSES—

Some o f the best vineyards of P e r a n d - V e r g e l esses and Savigny, Cote d ' O r ( B u r g u n d y ) .

VERMOUTH—

A w h i t e wine, almost a medicinal wine, possessing certain tonic properties o w i n g to the aromatical herbs and various ingrédients, as w e l l as sugar, which are cooked in the wine b e f o r e it becomes V e r m o u t h . The Italian V e r m o u t h is usually darker in colour and sweeter than the French. [220]

VERNACCIA— A

red wine f r o m Sardinia

(Italy).

VESUVIO— One of the white wines o f

VEVEY—

Sicily.

O n e of the best w h i t e wines of Vaud (Switzerland).

the Canton de

VIDONIA—

A dessert w i n e which used to corne chiefly f r o m Teneriffe in pre-phylloxera days and enjoyed a v e r y fair measure o f popularity in England.

VIEILLE CURE (La) —

A French liqueur, b r o w n in colour, of strength and with a very aromatical flavour distinctive.

high quite

VIEUX CHATEAU CERTAN— lst G r o w t h P o m e r o l

(Claret).

VILLA NOVA DE GAYA— Oporto's twin city, on the left bank o f the Douro, where most P o r t shippers have their wine Lodges.

VILLANY—

O n e of the most important wine-producing districts o f H u n g a r y . T h e best white wine is known as Villanyer Riesling, and the best red as Villanyer Auslese.

VIN—.

French

for

wine.

VIN DE GARDE— A

well made wine suitable f o r laying down.

VIN DE CUVEE—

A Champagne term f o r wine of the first pressing ; i. e., the best.

VIN DE GOUTTE—

T h e last pressing of the grapes f r o m which only a poor wine is made.

VIN DE MESSE— French

for

Altar

VIN DE PAILLE—

wine.

A sweetish, golden wine made in the Jura from white grapes dried on straw mats b e f o r e pressing. [221]

VIN DOUX— French f o r n e w l y pressed grape juice o r " M u s t " .

VIN GRIS— T h e cheapest sort o f wine made chiefly in L o r raine, but also elsewhere in the eastern parts o f France, f r o m red and w h i t e grapes mixed.

VIN JAUNE—

A n o t h e r name f o r V i n de P a i l l e .

VIN ROSE— 1. A pink wine made f r o m v e r y ripe black grapes, the skins o f which are not allowed t o f e r ment with the wine, so that they only impart to it a pink tinge instead of a dark red colour. 2. A pink w i n e made f r o m black and white grapes m i x e d in the pressing. 3. A white wine coloured with cochineal to the degree o f pink required.

VINHO—

Portuguese f o r

VINO—

wine.

Italian and Spanish f o r wine.

VINO DE PASTO—

Spanish f o r " D i n n e r type o f Sherry.

w i n e " , a golden

"utility"

VINO SPUMANTE— Italian

for

"Sparkling

VINO VERDE—

wine".

T h e Portuguese white beverage wine o f the p e o p l e ; usually consumed when quite n e w ; rasping, but refreshing.

VINS DE PAYS—

L o c a l wines, some o f others not so g o o d .

which are excellent

and

VINS DE PAYSAN—

French for local wines, used f o r home sumption b y the vigneron, usually being o f quality and unsalable.

conpoor

VINTAGE—

T h e gathering o f the grapes. A l s o the particular year when the grapes w e r e gathered and the w i n e made. T h e r e is a Vintage e v e r y year, but the quality of the grapes vintaged e v e r y year [222]

varies f r o m year t o year. T h e r e are wines shipped under the date of their vintage, and others shipped without any such d a t e ; all w e r e made alike f r o m grapes gathered in one or m o r e years. T h e chief difference between dated ( V i n t a g e ) and undated ( n o n - V i n t a g e ) wines is that the first show greater promise of improving with age and should be kept, whilst the others are ready for present consumption, and may—but need not—be kept. I.

S o m e of the greatest Classical V i n t a g e s of the last c e n t u r y : Port: 1834, 1847, 1851, 1863, 1868, 1875, 1887, 1896. Claret: 1848, 1864, 1869, 1870, 1871, 1874, 1875, 1878, 1899, 1900. Burgundy: 1858, 1875, 1881, 1885, 1889, 1895, 1898. Champagne: 1874, 1880, 1884, 1889, 1892, 1900. Hocks: 1868, 1889, 1893, 1900.

II.

S o m e of the best V i n t a g e years o f the present century: Port: 1904, 1908, 1912, 1920, 1922, 1924, 1927. Claret: 1904, 1905, 1909, 1914, 1917, 1920, 1923, 1924, 1926, 1928, 1929. Burgundy: 1904, 1906, 1911, 1915, 1919, 1923, 1926, 1929. Champagne: 1904, 1906, 1911, 1920, 1921, 1926, 1928, 1929. Hocks: 1904, 1906, 1911, 1915, 1921, 1925, 1929, 1931, 1933.

T h e r e is some poor wine made even in the best o f vintages, and there is also some g o o d w i n e made even when the vintage is, generally speaking, a failure. Hence one should pay m o r e attention to the quality o f the w i n e in one's glass than to the label on the bottle.

VOLNAY—

One o f the best known Communes of the Cote d'Or, producing much red Burgundy o f v e r y fair quality. Its best vineyards a r e : Les Angles, L a B a r r e , Bousse d'Or, E n Caillerets, Caillerets Dessus, E n Checret, Fremiet, L e s Mitans, Points d ' A n g l e s , and E n Verseuil. [223]

VOLRADS, Schloss (Rhinegau)— T h e finest wines.

g r o w t h o f W i n k e l - a m - R h e i n ; white

VOSLAU— One o f the best wine-producing districts o f Austria f o r both red and w h i t e wines.

VOSNE-ROMANEE— One o f the most important Communes o f the Cote d ' O r in which a r e situated vineyards p r o ducing the most celebrated red Burgundy, chief among them being the small Romanee Conti v i n e yard, also the other Romanees, L a Romanee, SaintV i v a n t , and L a Tache.

VOUGEOT, or GILLY-LES-VOUGEOTS— O n e o f the most famous Communes o f t h e Cote d'Or, w h e r e is the celebrated Clos de V o u g e o t . T h e next best wines are Les Petits Vougeots.

VOUGEOT (Clos de)—

T h e finest vineyard of Burgundy, but n o w divided among a large number of different o w n ers w h o d o n o t all g i v e t h e same care t o their share o f t h e vines ; hence, differences in quality of the wines sold under and entitled t o the name of Clos de V o u g e o t . T h e wines o f V o u g e o t a r e mostly red wines, but there is a little white wine made f r o m the V i g n e Blanche vineyard.

VOUVRAY—

T h e most important wine-producing centre o f T o u r a i n e (Loire Valley), chiefly noted f o r its white wines, both still and sparkling.

WACHENHEIM (Palatinate)—

D a d - D u r k h e i m district. W h i t e wines.

WACHSTUM— German f o r " T h e property o f " . I t precedes, on the labels o f the best g r o w t h s o f H o c k s and Moselles, the name o f t h e proprietor o f the estate f r o m which the wine came that is in the bottle.

WALDRACH (Ruwer Valley)—

T r e v e s district. W h i t e wine. Best vineyards : Ehrenberg, Meisenberg, Laurentiusberg.

WALPORZHEIM (Ahr Valley)— R e d wines. [224]

WAWERN (Saar Valley) — Saarburg district. W h i t e wines. Best vineyards : H e r r e n b e r g and Jesuitenberg.

WEEPER— A bottle showing the first signs o f a defective cork ; one that should be recorked, or, preferably, drunk, before it becomes an Ullage.

WEHLEN (Moselle Valley) — Berncastel district. W h i t e wines. Best yards : Sonnenuhr, Nonnenberg, L a y .

vine-

WELLINGTON (South Africa)—

One of the most prolific w i n e - g r o w i n g districts o f the Cape Province, at the end o f the P a a r l V a l l e y , furthest a w a y f r o m French H o e k .

WILTINGEN (Saar Valley, Saarburg District)—

W h i t e wines. Best v i n e y a r d s : K u p p , Scharzberg, and D o h r .

Scharzhofberg,

WINE—

W i n e is the suitably fermented juice of grapes picked when ripe and pressed or crushed where and when picked. Fermentation may be slow or quick, partial or complete, satisfactory or otherwise, but it is as inevitable as it is natural. I t transforms grape juice into alcohol, and there can never be any real wine without alcohol. T h e r e are many different kinds o f wines, because there are many different species o f vines, because o f the great differences which exist between the soil, aspect, and climate of all the vineyards of the w o r l d , and because of differences between various methods of v i n e - g r o w i n g and wine-making.

WINKEL (Rhinegau)—

Fine white wines. T h e pride of W i n k e l is Schloss V o l l r a d s . Other good vineyards : W i n k l e r Hasensprung, Jesuitengarten, Ober-, H o n i g - and Dachsberg, Erntebringer, etc.

WINNINGEN (Moselle Valley)—

Coblence district. W h i t e wines. Uhlen. Rotgen, H a m m . [225]

Best v i n e y a r d s :

WINTRICH (Moselle Valley)— Berncastel district ; white Geyersberg, Simonsberg.

wines ;

Ohligsberg,

WOODY—

A wine o r spirit having acquired the smell o f the cask in which it has been lodged too long. I f one o f the staves o f a cask is mouldy, the wine or spirit in it soon acquires a musty taste which renders it undrinkable. But woodiness is the smell of sound o a k ; it is unwelcome, but not unwholesome, and it can, as a rule, be remedied.

WORCESTER— One

of

the important

wine-producing

districts

of Cape P r o v i n c e (South Africa).

WURZBURG—

T h e chief centre of the Franconia w i n e (Stein w i n e s ) .

trade

WYNBERG—

T h e oldest wine-producing district o f the Cape

Peninsula (South Africa). YALUMBA— W e l l known Australia).

vineyards

at

Angaston

(South

YQUEM (Chateau d')— Sauternes. wines.

The

finest

of

all naturally

sweet

O n e o f the best Swiss white wines f r o m in the U p p e r Rhone V a l l e y .

Aigle,

YVORNE— ZACO—

T h e best (Spain).

white

wine

of

the

Rioja

district

ZELTINGER SCHLOSSBERG— A n excellent wine f r o m the Moselle region.

ZELL (Moselle Valley)— G o o d white wines.

ZELTINGEN (Moselle Valley)— Berncastel district.

ZUBROWKA—

G o o d white wines.

K n o w n as the Green V o d k a . I t is green o f colour, and it has a bitter almond flavour ; unsweetened. [226]

INDEX Page 159 to 229

Glossary

A L e g e n d of L i q u e u r s , S p i r i t s a n d W i n e _ _ 3 t o 41

Liqueurs

3 t o 17

A b s i n t h e , 3 ; A d v o c a a t , 4; A l m e n d r a d o , 4; A n i s e t t e , 4; A p r i c o t , 5; A q u a v i t , 5; A r r a c k , 5; B e n e d i c t i n e , 5; Brannvin, 6; B l a c k b e r r y , 6; C h a r t r e u s e , 7; G o i n t r e a u , 7; C o g n a c , 7; C o r d i a l s , 9 ; C o r d i a l M e d o c , 9; C r e m e De Cacao, 9; C r e m e De Cassis, 9 ; C r e m e D e M e n t h e , 9; C r e m e D e R o s e , 9 ; C r e m e D e V a n i l l a , 10; C r e m e De V i o l e t , 10; C o r a c a o , 10; D r a m b u i e , 10; F l o r a A l p i n a and F l o r a D e l l e A l p i , 10; G i n , 10; Goldwasser, 11; Grenadine, 11; Kaymagui, 1 1 ; K i r s c h w a s s e r , 1 1 ; K u m m e l , 12; L i q u e u r s , 12; M a r a s c h i n o , 14; Mescal, 14; O r g e a t , 14; P e a c h , 15; P r u n e l l e , 15; P u l q u e , 14; R o c k and R y e , 1 5 ; R u m , 1 5 ; S l o e G i n , 16; S t r e g a , 16; T e p a c h e , 14; T e q u i l a , 1 4 ; T r i p l e S e c , 16; V e r m o u t h , 16; V o d k a , 17; W i s c h n o f k a , 1 7 ; Z u b r o v k a , 17.

Whiskies

17 t o 20

Wines

20 t o 34

Chilean W i n e s , 2 1 ; European W i n e s , 21; F r e n c h W i n e s , 2 2 ; C h a m p a g n e , 22 t o 2 5 ; , B o r d e a u x W i n e s , 25; Burgundy Wines, 26; G e r m a n W i n e s , 2 7 ; H u n g a r i a n W i n e s , 28; I t a l i a n W i n e s , 29; P o r t u g u e s e W i n e s , 30; S p a n i s h W i n e s , 3 1 ; M a d e i r a , M a l a g a and M u s c a t e l W i n e s , 3 2 ; United States W i n e s , 33.

Hints for the Hostess

34

Rules on Serving Wines

36

Serving Wines

38

Vintage Statistics. European Wines

41

[227]

Page Types

of G l a s s w a r e

Proper

42

Glassware

43

S t a n d a r d U n i t s of M e a s u r e T h e A r t of M i x i n g

44 45

Mixed Drinks

48 t o 136

Cobblers

48

Cocktails

50

Collins

62

Crustas

63

Daisies

64

Egg Nogs

66

Fixes

68

Flzzes

69

Flips

71

Frappes

72

Highballs

73

Juleps

74

Lemonades

76

Miscellaneous Straight and F a n c y Drinks—78 Mulls

92

Negus

—_

Pousse

93

Cafe

Punches

94

(Individual)

96

P u n c h e s in P u n c h B o w l Q u a n t i t y

106

Sangarees

126

Slings

127

Smashes

128

Sours

129

Syrups

133

Toddies Tom

and

131 Jerry

132

Toasts

135 [228]

PART T W O Liqueurs, Wines and Spirits in the Kitchen Cakes

141 t o 142

Fruit Cake wlth B r a n d y ; 141; Tipsy Cake, 142.

M a r y l a n d Fruit

Canning with Brandy

Cake,

142 t o 148

Apricots, Brandied, 142; Cedrats, Brandied, 143; Cherrles, Brandied, 143; Cherry Conserve, 143; Cherries, Marschino, 144; Grapes, Brandied, 144; Melons, Brandied, 144; Mirabelles, 145; Oranges, Brandied, 145; Orange Peel, Candied, 146; Peaches, Brandied, 146; Pears, Brandied, 146; Pears, Brandied (Mistress Martha Washington's Recipe for P e a r P r e s e r v e s ) , 147; Plums, Brandied, 147; Prunes, B r a n d i e d , 147; Quinces, Brandied, 147.

Cocktails—Wine

Fruit Cocktail

148

D e s s e r t s , P u d d i n g s , S a l a d s , S a u c e s — 1 4 8 t o 151 Apples in W i n e , 148; Benedictine Gelee, 148; Benedictine Glace, 149; Jelly w l t h W i n e , 149; P l u m Pudding, English, 149; Pudding, Frozen (Kentucky), 150; Pudding, H a r d Sauce for, 150; Pudding, W i n e Sauce, 150; Strawberry Sauce, 150; Syllabub ( A n O l d G e o r g i a R e c i p e ) , 150; Tutti Fruitti, 150.

Helpful Hints

140

Meats and Fish, and M e a t Sauces

151 t o 154

Chicken in W i n e , 151; Baked H a m in B u r g u n d y , 151; B a k e d Spiced H a m (Thomas Jefferson's F a v o r i t e ) , 152; B a k e d Pork Chops, in W i n e , 152; Jugged Rabbit, 152; Roasts, 153; Salmon and L a k e T r o u t in W i n e , 153; Steak Rolled in W i n e , 154; V e a l Cutlets, Maintenon, 154; Venison, C u r r a n t Sauce for, 154.

Miscellaneous

.

—155 t o 157

Clarification, 155; Crepes Flambees, 155; Eggnog (Andrew Jackson's F a v o r i t e ) , 155; G h e r k i n Buck, 156; Grapefruit, W i n e d , 156; Maceration, 156; Sweet Potatoes in W i n e , 158.

Pies Mince Meat,

Soup—Wined

.157 t o 158 157; Sherry

Wine

Soup

Chiffon

Pie, 168.

158 [229]

PLASTIC BINDING QUAD-CITY LITHO & PRINTING CO. DAVENPORT, IOWA