The boy craftsman

THE

BOY CRAFTSMAN

A.NEELYHALL

1

Knives and Hatchets are ground upon both sides of the blade.

Of

course, the edge of a tool

is

left

in

a very rough

condition by the grind-stone, and must be

on an

oil-stone before

it

is

There are many makes ones and

many

fit

of

worthless ones.

rubbed up

to cut with.

whetstones,

Above

all

many good things, don't

WBevet

Produced Sy Grindstone

Fig. 37. Fig. 36.

buy a cheap edges upon

One

one, for

it

will

— Whetting a Plane-iron.

be impossible to obtain keen

it.

upon the market is The Washita Oil-stone, a Kansas stone of medium hardness, free from grit and lumps, and of good quality through and through. of the best stones

THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS

41

In rubbing up a plane-iron, grasp the end between the

thumb and

fingers of the right

hand across the

of the left

pressure upon

it

hand and place the palm

iron to bring the necessary

(see Fig. 36).

holding the blade on the stone at the angle

Instead of

of the bevel, tip

it

to

an angle of about

thirty-five degrees,

With it held upon the stone

or ten degrees more than that of the bevel. in this position,

rub

it

with a rotary motion,

back and forth

making

along the edge of the tool to

keep the blade

in

the

a second narrow bevel Fig. 37).

(see

same

Be

careful

position, to prevent the

By

bevels from becoming rounded.

exerting a steady

upward pressure against the end of the tool with the right hand, and an equal downward pressure in the centre

the

of

blade with

the

left

hand, this

is

easily

accomplished.

The rough edge which appears on blade

is

removed by rubbing the

over the stone a few times. the iron perfectly

A

flat

flat

the back of the side of the iron

Care must be taken to keep

or a bevel will be formed.

Strop, consisting of a piece of leather fastened to a

block of wood as described in the foregoing chapter,

should be used after the oil-stone, to put a fine edge

upon the

tool.

as a razor

is

The

tool is stropped in the

done.

Saws require sharpening but once proper care dull,

is

same way

taken of them.

or need to be

set, it is

in a great while

When

if

they do become

advisable for you to pay an

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

42

experienced person to do the work rather than attempt it

yourself.

Laying out

A

two-foot carpenter's

be used

in laying off

Work

folding-rule

should generally

measurements and a sharp-pointed pencil or brad-awl to locate the points.

To

connect the points

it

necessary to have a straight-

is

edge

—a

steel

framing-square (Fig.

42) for large boards and a small

try-square

pieces

A

(Fig.

— and

pencil

38)

smaller

for

a pencil or knife.

may

be used in con-

necting points upon rough work,

but for greater accuracy a knife

should be

used,

as

it

thinner and cleaner-cut

vent

it

out of

makes a line.

In

making knife lines, the square must be held very firmly, to prefrom slipping and allowing the knife to run its

To draw

course. lines across a

to

one

edge

" of

board at right angles

edge (which should be the straight or

" tried

arm of the square parallel with the tried edge and mark along the other arm. To perform the same operation with the trysquare, place the handle against the tried edge, as shown the board) with the steel-square, place one

in Fig. 38.

THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS Oftentimes

it

becomes necessary

lel to the tried edge.

the rule and pencil, as

to

draw a

43

line paral-

This may be done roughly with

shown

in Fig. 40.

in the left hand, with the first finger

Grasp the

rule

touching the tried

edge of the board, and hold the pencil point against the

end

Keeping

of the rule with the right hand.

Fig. 40.

this posi-

— Gauging with Rule and Pencil.

with a steady hold on the rule and pencil,

tion,

your hands along the board.

The

move

result will be a line

parallel to the tried edge.

At line,

first

you may have trouble

making a

straight

but with practice you will be able to hold tho rule

and pencil

steadily.

For particular work, where perfectly straight and parallel

A

in

it

is

necessary to get a

line,

Marking-gauge should be used.

This

is

nothing

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

44

more than the above

principles

combined

in a tool.

It

consists of a graduated shaft, or rule, with a small needle

or spur in one end, which slides through a mortise

block of wood

in a

To

known

made

as the head.

operate the gauge, set the adjustable head at the

required division on the shaft, and then grasp the head

and

shaft with the fingers of the right hand, as

Fig. 41.

Fig. 41. tried

edge

the wood,

shown

in

— Using the Marking-gauge.

Place the outer face of the head against the of

your work, and then, pressing the spur into

move

the gauge along the board, at the

same

time keeping the face of the head firmly against the

edge

of the board.

The gauge

is

much more conven-

method of drawing parallel lines, for you can repeat the measurement as often as you wish, ient than the other

THE PROPER HANDLING OF TOOLS

45

having once adjusted the head, without having to lay it

off again.

A

Try-square with a mitred handle

but

costs

little

more than the ordinary make, and is much handier, inasmuch as it can be employed in making mitres, by placing the bevelled end against the side of the work instead of the straight side (see Figs. 38 and 39). The Bevel is in reality a try-square which can be adjusted to any desired angle.

To

set

an angle

at

it

of

forty-five degrees, place

on

the

shown

arm

it

(this is

Move

strikes equal distances

shown

the

and the the blade

on the arms

at four inches in the

and tighten the screw while

as

with

42,

against

of the square

blade resting on both arms. until

Fig.

in

handle

the

inner edge of one

steel-square,

it

it

is

drawing) in

this

position. Other angles may be drawn out upon a piece of wood and the bevel adjusted to them so these angles can be laid off upon other pieces. You will find the bevel handy for reproducing angles. However, if you are supplied with a mitred try-square you can easily dispense with it for

ordinary work.

There

will

be times when you wish

To Divide a Board into a number

may be found

of equal parts,

to be fractions of an inch that

which

cannot be

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

46

easily laid off with

the ordinary way.

the rule in

It

can be accomplished with a pair of compasses, but until

you become practised

in their use,

it

will take

time in setting them, dividing, resetting, until the

method

exact divisor is

is

obtained.

some

little

and redividing,

A much

that performed with the rule, as

quickei

shown

in

Fig- 43-

Suppose you wish

to divide a

board four and three-

quarters inches long into five equal parts.

Fig. 43.

— Dividing a Board Equally.

rule across the board, as

end

at

one edge and the

Mark

posite edge.

Place your

shown

in the illustration,

" five-inch " division at

off the five divisions

one

the op-

and then square

the lines across the board at these points with the trysquare.

In the

This

will

give you the required five equal parts.

same way longer boards may be divided up by

using two- and three-inch divisions on the rule instead of one-inch,

and smaller pieces by using

inch divisions.

half-

and quarter-

%

"'Oor.3*«7"

-«i'«r

Class-3'xS' -

— Af

Show-By Dot tedLmelU First-slip Sill

-

Knob

Din

Place Then rest

ends of A and-B on Sill. Set Cap C on-

jznds of A

Oiled Panel.

2"*5i"

and B

F— 3*.* Fig 85

Window First

Teini

and Second Story ^-Inside of

J=T^-Pu tt<

D

/

Puffy

Fig 86

-ZP^

Pl»AM OF

,

|

Windotv

,

-

Fig

c^Fi

WINDOWS

89 Front Door

-Outside of

Wiode*

ctU-f

o2 fig. 87

F/G

90

Plan of door

--+ri

Window Sills

JT

Fig 91

Door Sill

y

3jr"xf Strip.

Fig 83 Basement Windows i-ftrttjr

Fig 88

Casement Windows Figs. 83-91.

— Details 83

Fig. 8 4.

PLAfi of

Windows.

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

84

Narrow

strips of

paper glued to the

and

Figs. 78, 83, 85,

in

glass, as

shown

produce the effect

88, will

of

Divided Glass and upper and lower sash.

The Door Trim (Figs. the

same

door

window

as the

is

it

hinged by means of a linen

M and

should be set flush with

M

L, and

A",

put in place

is

trim, but instead of placing the

in the centre of the wall,

the inside trim (see

and 91)

89, 90,

in plan, Fig. 90),

and

glued to the edge of

strip

The

door-jambs are cased with

/ and /. The rear door may be made

simpler than this by using

the door

strip

L.

strips

a plain strip for a cap.

Make

the Door out of a piece of cigar-box.

The drawings

give

door and window

all

the necessary measurements for

and you

strips,

will find

it

a simple

matter to cut them out with a sharp knife. After putting the trim upon the doors, cut a of

number

of

all

strips

of the of

windows and

wood an eighth

an inch thick and half an inch wide for

them

Outside Trimmings, and nail

the house, around

around the top

moulding

to

each corner of

edges of each gable-end, and

the

Purchase some narrow

of the basement.

for the cornice

and

roof boards, being careful to

it

to the edges of the

make

neat mitres at the

nail

corners.

The house can more

easily be

moved about if mounted

upon Casters.

To

put these on, cut four pieces of two-

HOW TO MAKE

A DOLL-HOUSE

8J

by-four about three inches long, fasten a caster to each,

and

one block inside each corner

nail

of the foundation

frame.

The

exterior of the house

now complete

is

with the

exception of

These should be made up

The Chimneys.

two

pieces,

made in

of

which

should

of

four

have bird's-mouth cuts

shown make the

in the end, as

Fig. 92, to

chimney

over the top

fit

ridge of the roof.

The

side edges of the

pieces

should be mitred and

fitted Brick.

Nail a strip of F^ft wood, half an inch wide,

together.

around the tops

chimneys will find

the

of

You

for caps.

easier to

it

Paint the Chimneys before fastening roof.

Make

them

to the

the brickwork

red and the caps

white, -

and with a small brush and ruler mortar

stripe

joints.

off

When

the

—V

^Bird's Mouth Cut' to Fit Ridge op Roof-

FlG

Construction of Chiruneys.

the

paint has thoroughly dried, nail the chimneys on to the

ridge of the roof in line with the front illustration of completed house).

windows

(see

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

86

You

A

will

want

Mantel and Fire-place in the living-room of the

house, and

it

had better be

built

in

at

this

point.

Figure 93 shows about the simplest form of mantel you can make, and one that presents a very neat appearance.

It

is

made out

Fig. 93.

cigar-box

of

— The

strips

painted to

Living-room Mantel.

represent brick, with stone hearth and mantel-shelf.

It

measures seven inches wide, four and five-eighths inches

from the base to the top of the

shelf,

and has a

fire-place

opening four inches wide and two and one-half inches high.

Figure 94 shows the patterns for the cutting of the various pieces

required

to

make up

the mantel.

A,

HOW TO MAKE A DOLL-HOUSE the front piece, has an opening cut in place, as

to

shown

B for the

back

ends of the mantel, one the

of the fire-place,

two

D for

of

for the fire-

it

Cut two

drawing.

in the

87

strips similar

size of

C for

the sides of the

the fire-

l±.**

7i"

1

A

B

"Him

f

1

J

i

«

l-f

—

;

— 4-"—

i •

'

'

•

*

"

>\

l£-J

D 3"x 3"

Xg-"

Fig. 94.

— Construction

3"xli;"x£

of Mantel.

Hod

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

88

place,

and one

of

E for the

mantel-shelf.

These

pieces,

with the exception of £, should be painted red, and

when

striped

off,

brick.

It will

be

dry,

much

with

white paint to represent

easier to

do the painting before

fastening the pieces in their proper places.

First divide

the length and breadth of the pieces into about the

number of spaces shown in Fig. 93 with a Then with a small brush, and straight-edge

lead pencil. for a guide,

trace over the pencil lines with white lead. in striping the brick to get the courses the

each piece so they

will

Be careful same upon

correspond when the pieces are

put together.

The Hearth

is

made out of Upon

by two inches wide.

a strip seven inches long this the

mantel should be

Figure 93 shows the location of each piece, and with the aid of glue and put together with the pieces prepared.

some small brads the mantel. to

make neat

will

it

The edges joints.

be a simple matter to complete of the strips

had best be mitred

Paint the hearth and mantel-shelf

white.

The mantel should be tition

B in the living-room

fastened to the centre of par(see plan, Fig. 65).

Andirons should, of course, accompany the fire-place.

These may be made as shown in Fig. 95. They consist two pieces of cigar-boxes cut the shape of A and B {A an inch and one-half by an inch and one-quarter, and B an inch and one-half long), with the end of B glued in a slot cut in the lower part of A. The feet and the of

HOW TO MAKE

A

top of

and the foot

A DOLL-HOUSE

B

of

are

small

89

brass-headed

upholstering-tacks driven into the wood, which give the

andirons a trim appearance.

Paint the strips black.

Set the andirons upon the hearth with the ends project-

ing into the fire-place, and pile several

shaped

nicely

twigs

upon them for logs. The Interior Woodwork mains to be put on.

re-

Cigar-

boxes make excellent imitation

hardwood the

floors, for

the halls,

and

nursery.

ball-room,

Select as large pieces as possible,

and

them

fit

on

floors with close joints.

them down

Make

the

Nail

with small brads. •

r

FrG

the door casings from

-

95-

— Andiron.

the same material, cutting the strips the shape and size of those

used for the outside doors (Fig.

advisable to hang inside doors, as they off, and seldom work satisfactorily.

A

chair-rail

89).

is

not

should be made in the dining-room of

quarter-inch strips fastened to the walls

above the

It

are easily broken

three

inches

floor.

Make baseboards

in

each room out of three-quarter

inch strips, and picture mouldings out of strips an eighth of an inch wide.

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

9o

After completing the carpenter work of the house, Set all Nail-heads with your nail-set, putty these holes

and

all

others resulting from cracks

sand-paper the rough surfaces. be finished in its

If

and

the

and

defects,

woodwork

is

to

natural color, by varnishing or oiling

its

surface, color the putty to

match the wood.

Paint the House a cream color, with white trimmings

and a green

roof,

using yellow-ochre and white lead

(mixed) for the walls ustrade of front

brickwork

;

;

white lead for the trimmings, bal-

of the

;

of

roof,

and treads and

and lamp-black

for striping the

dark olive green for the

risers of the front steps

stonework

chimney-caps, and striping

steps,

basement.

The

painting of the chim-

neys and fire-place has been described. Paint the front door on both sides with white enamel or white lead, with the exception of a panel in the centre,

which should be oiled as shown

in

Fig. 89.

This

will

give the appearance of a white enamelled door with a

mahogany panel

set in

it.

Fig. 96.

Another Style of Doll-House.

Fig. 97.

Interior View of Doll-House.

CHAPTER

VI

ANOTHER DOLL-HOUSE AND A STABLE

Photographs of another style of doll-house are shown This house was built by the author in Figs. 96 and 97. for a little relative some ten years ago, and is still in perfect condition, as the photographs show.

were

Packing-cases

used

for

its

with

construction,

cut-up cigar-boxes for window-casings, door-jambs, ished floors,

etc.,

fin-

and small mouldings for the outside

trimmings.

The of the

inside

house

arrangement and the general construction is

so nearly like the design in the preced-

ing chapter, that most of the details and the construction

may be

followed in building

it.

mode If

of

boxes

are used, the dimensions will have to be figured out to suit,

unless the boxes are pulled apart and the boards

cut to the sizes

shown

in the illustrations of this chapter.

The Floor Plans, which

be found in Figs. 98, 99, and 100, give the sizes of the rooms, and the patterns for the

making

will

of

The Partitions are shown

in

Figs.

10 1 and

102.

In

cutting out the second-floor partitions (Fig. 102), mitre 9"

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

9»

E

F

to allow for the bedroom door and opening, shown upon the plan, and mitre the edges of G to fit between them above the door. The mitring

one edge

is

shown

of

in the

drawings (Fig.

102).

Besides cutting a stair opening in the second

make an opening and third

three

by

five

inches

in the

floor,

second

floors for

Care must be taken

The Elevator-shaft.

Make

openings exactly over one another.

to

have these

the opening

by eight inches in the place indiThis will allow for the elevator cated upon the plan. stairway has been built to the stairway. No shaft and in the

second floor

six

third story, as the elevator serves the purpose,

would take up too much

and one

of the ball-room space.

The Side Walls should measure nineteen inches wide by twenty-four inches high, and the other two walls

thirty

That portion of The Rear Wall enclosing the kitchen and bath-room hinged to open (see Fig. 98), and

inches wide by twenty-four inches high.

is

The Front Wall

is

made

in

two sections, each hinged

wood an inch and one-half wide nailed to the two edges of the house, as shown in Fig. 96. The Windows are four by five inches, so four-by-five to a strip of

camera plates can be used

for the glass.

The Roof had best be made

in

two

sections, each meas-

uring twenty-eight inches long by twenty-four inches wide.

Fasten the boards together with battens on the

under side and,

after mitring the

upper edge of each,

—

—

1»-

A t j 1

A j

1

1 1

i

i

^-4_4-^

13

i

—

1-

B

t 1

i

Pig 98 First Floor Plan

!

*zu >— 4*—

3 0"

!

3

\

f-4-4

«-4"-I«

Fig 101

First Flooe PAETiTions *..

—

-"-L

to"

— -*&-•

*>"—

—

4" -I- 5" -4- *• -4

T 5"

4"-l- 4" -J i

o

Fig. 99. Second

Floor Plam

]

1

Lime of Roof

^z-

-A'-*-

i

F

E ,1

1

U— 5"—>

—*Ji'-4-3"+- 4^-1

1

9"

H

— ric.102.

Second Floor

Partitions

Fig 100

Third Fuoor Plan.

Figs. 98-102.

— Plans of Doll-house and Patterns 93

for Partitions.

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

94 nail

them

to the

above the third

house so that the ridge

floor.

Then

fifteen inches

is

board nineteen inches.

nail a

(D

long by ten inches wide in the peak of the roof Fig. 104),

and a narrow

strip three inches

(K and L

wall

These

cut

Fig.

in

the

off

in

from each side 100).

triangular

shape of the ball-room and give it

a better appearance.

The Chimney

is

made

the

same

as those for the other house, with

the exception of the cap, which is

built

up

of strips of cigar-boxes

to represent corbelled brick (see

Fig.

These

103).

strips

should

three-sixteenths

of

an

wide, and fastened

in

place by

be

means

An is

It

of small brads.

Elevator

found

was

ing

it

inch

in

is

something which

but few doll-houses.

built in this house, think-

might please the young

and proved such a success that the scheme has been mistress,

Fig. 103.

104, 105,

106, 107,

worked out carefully in Figs. and 108, that you may include it in

the house you build.

The

cutting of the elevator-shaft has already been

described.

For

material, procure

two small pulleys, such

Fig. 105.

Fig. 106.

J

L T

ovble Pointed 7acA

zzzzzzzzzk fo

Fig. 107.

Fig. 108.

Fig. 104.

— Front View of Elevator-shaft and

Figs. 104-108.

— Details 95

Stairs.

of the Elevator.

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

96

as are

shown

feet of

No. 12 wire,

in Fig.

106, four feet of brass chain, six

half a

dozen double-pointed tacks or

very small screw-eyes, a short piece of lead pipe, and a

Make

cigar-box.

The Car out

of the cigar-box, cutting

it

down

two

to

and one-quarter inches wide, three and three-quarters inches

and seven inches high

deep,

(see

Fig.

107).

Place two of the double-pointed tacks or screw-eyes in

each side of the car for the guide-wires to run through

and another

in the centre of the top

from which

to attach

the brass chain.

The Guide-wires are made

Cut two

not easily bend. first

of very

floor to the ball-room ceiling,

through the tacks

and

running them

after

and

will

from the

in the sides of the car, stick their

into small holes bored at E, F, G,

The upper

heavy wire that

of a length to reach

H

ends

(Fig. 104).

holes should be bored through the ball-room

ceiling, while the

through the

first

lower ones need be bored but part way floor.

Care must be taken to have

these holes in the correct position, so the elevator will

run up and down upon the wires without striking the sides of the shaft. in place is to

until the

The

easiest

way

of fastening the wires

run the upper ends through the holes,

lower ends can be set into their sockets, and

then drive two double-pointed tacks over the top of each wire, as

Now

shown

at

E and Ein

Fig. 104.

run the elevator up to the top of the

mark upon the

ceiling

where the screw-eye

shaft,

and

in the top of

ANOTHER DOLL-HOUSE AND A STABLE At

the car strikes.

this point

and two inches back

ceiling

9j

bore a hole through the of

it

bore another hole,

When

through which to run the weight-chain. been done, cut a short block of wood

to

fit

this has

the peak of

the roof and

Screw the Pulleys to

it

peak

Fit the block in the

two inches apart (Fig.

105).

of the roof, centring the front

pulley over the top of the car as nearly as possible, and drive a couple of nails through the roof boards into

hold

it

in place

it

to

Then

temporarily.

Attach the Chain to the tack in the top of the

car, slip

a piece of lead pipe about an inch long over the chain,

allowing

it

on the top

to set

of the car to

make

the latter

heavier (Fig. 107), and run the chain up through the

To

the second hole.

first

down through

hole in the ceiling, over the pulleys, and

the end of the chain attach a piece

of lead pipe for

The Elevator-weight just

heavy enough

to

(see

Fig.

make

108).

— This should

be

a perfect balance between

and the car, which can be obtained by whittling off the end of the pipe until the weight of the two is the

it

same.

Make

will rest floor.

the chain of sufficient length so the weight

upon the

You

can

first floor

now

tell

in the right positions.

when

the car

is

at the third

whether or not the pulleys are

When

they have been adjusted

properly, nail the block firmly in place.

The Gable-ends.

— The

pieces (A, B, C, and

D,

front gable-end consists of four in Fig. 109), the

dimensions for

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

98

the cutting of which are given in the illustration.

preparing these, nail A, B, and in the gable of the roof,

need

be, to

fit

from pushing

narrow

is

D, if they To prevent the movable section

in too far,

it

— The

will

it.

of

be necessary to nail a

Front Gable-end.

wood to the The rear gable

strip of

inside of

After

their proper positions

and trim the edges

between.

Fig. 109.

Cin

roof is

and

made

third floor just

in

one piece, and

fastened in place permanently.

The movable

gable and

all

hinged portions should

have Spring-catches with which to shut

house

(see the illustrations).

The Stairway its

up and lock the

is

shown

in Fig. 104,

and the

details for

construction will be found in Figs, no, in, 112, 113.

This stairway between. in Fig.

1

is

made

Cut a block

of

in

two

wood

parts,

with a platform

the shape and size

10 for the platform, with notches at

for the tops of the lower stringers to

fit in.

A

Then

shown and

B

ANOTHER DOLL-HOUSE AND A STABLE Prepare

Two

3"-

String-

ers of thirteen risers

similar

Fig.

to

3"

of

five risers similar

to

Fig. 112, laying

them

described

as

off

of a pitch-

board similar to Fig. out these pieces,

0}

AA

Id

U

fas-

Prrct-\

lower stringers in the notches

FIG.

t-

i

13.

-BoAfcD

tops of the

the

A

and

B

in

the platform, and nail

platform

the

B \C

for-Stringers-

JL

After cutting

113.

ten

Square.

^Notches-

in

the preceding chapter

by means

FiG.ilO.

Stair -Platform

1 1

and two stringers

99

in

hJ

o

J

its

proper position in the corner

of

When

this

the

hall.

has been

done, nail the bottoms of the

(E

upper stringers

in Fig. 112) to the

sides of the platform at

C

the

and D, and tops

set

pig.h2.

in notches

Upper

cut in the edge of the

second

floor.

St-ri/ngers Figs.

1

io-i 13.

— Details of

Stairs.

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

IOO

The Treads and Risers are made the same as (Chap. V), except that the depth creased to five-eighths of an inch.

from a cigar-box

to

fit

of

in Fig. 74

the risers

is

in-

Cut another platform

over the rough one.

Build a Balustrade up the side of the stairs and around the

enclosures,

elevator

Chapter

V

and

(Figs. 71

using the scheme shown in 75).

All Other Details not mentioned here will be the as described in

same Chapter V, including the painting and

finishing of the house.

HOW The

stable

background

TO MAKE THE STABLE

shown

of

in Figs.

Fig. 96, will

114 and 115, and in the go nicely with the house

described in this or the preceding chapter.

FlG.

1

14.

— Exterior of Stable.

Its

con-

ANOTHER DOLL-HOUSE AND A STABLE struction

is

very simple.

The dimensions

four inches wide, twelve inches

deep, and

IOI

are twenty-

twenty-two

inches high, and the barn contains five stalls on the

ground

floor

and a

hay-loft above.

Fig. 115.

To

— Interior

of Stable.

build the stable according to the drawings, a box

ten by twelve by twenty-four inches should be procured for

The First Story. portions

it

will

—

If

is

made

teen inches, and the peak

is

a

box

of different pro-

be a simple matter to make such

tions in the details as

The Roof

you have

is

it

in

altera-

will require.

two

sections, each fifteen

by eigh-

fastened to the top of the box so that

twenty-two inches above the bottom.

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

102

The Gable-end 1 1

6,

A

y

is

B, and C,

made

h-3^4

and

i i

6.

— Front

to be

Gable-end.

Make

in the case of the doll-house.

window

by-five-inch

in Fig.

D

3r"-H Fig.

movable as

shown

in four pieces, as

to be nailed in place,

in the centre of

a three-

D, and fasten the glass in place with strips

cut

as

de-

scribed in Chapter

V.

Strips should

be

nailed

the

to

roof just inside of

the Fig. 117.

—

movable

tion to prevent the Stall Partitions.

latter

and a spring catch fastened

in too far,

sec-

to

from setting

C

and

D

as

shown, to hold the movable section in place. Figure

The

1

1

7 gives the patterns

Stall Partitions, four of

and fastened to the

and measurements

for

which should be cut out

floor of the stable four inches apart, or

so they will divide the inside width into five equal

stalls.

ANOTHER DOLL-HOUSE AND A STABLE The Feed-troughs are made out boxes

between the

fitted

and are fastened

117,

by means

place

and

as

two

shown

strips of cigarin Figs. 115

and

in

of brads

Above

glue.

stalls,

of

103

the

cut

stalls

Small Windows an inch

and one-half square in the

These are the ventilating windows for rear wall.

the

and may be

stalls,

left

open.

118 shows the

Figure

construction of

A

Ladder to

This

loft.

two

of

inches

made out

is

twelve

sticks long,

hay-

the

with

strips

two inches

of cigar-boxes

long glued to them half an

inch

in the

apart,

drawing.

a section floor

two

of

shown Cut away

as

the

inches

and stick the end

hay-loft

square of

Fig. 118.

the ladder

ing, fastening the uprights to the

— Ladder to Hay-loft.

up through the openedge of the floor (see

Fig. 118).

A

stick

about three inches long, with a very small

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

io4

pulley attached near the end, should be fastened in the

peak

of the roof for a

Feed-hoist (see Fig. 114).

The

A is

first

story has

Drop-front, as

made from

shown

in

the box-cover.

Figs. 114

and

115.

Fasten the boards together

with battens placed upon the inside, and hinge

bottom

enough

it

to the

Nail two cleats to the under side

of the stable.

of the floor (see

This

Fig. 114) to

to allow the front to

lift

it

off the

ground, just

drop without springing

its

hinges.

When

the

front

is

down

it

which to run the horses into the

forms an incline upon

not advisable to cut an opening in

it is

For

stable. it,

this reason

but merely

Represent a Stable Door on the outside (see Fig. 114).

This

is

done with paint and a

fine brush.

First paint

a green panel in the centre of the front, and then off a

and

couple of panels within this space with black paint,

them diagonally to represent beaded-boards. strips of wood half an inch wide make

stripe

With

A

mark

Simple Trim around the door, the sides of the stable,

shown in the illustration. carpenter work has been finished,

and around the gable,

When

the

as

Paint the Inside of the stable white, and the outside

same colors as used for the doll-houses tion on page 90, Chap. V). the

(see descrip-

CHAPTER

VII

FURNISHING THE DOLL-HOUSE

With

the carpenter

work

the finishing of the inside,

— and

of a doll-house completed,

—

wall papering and painting,

the selection of furniture for the various rooms,

remain to be done.

This requires as much care as the

building of the house, and while any boy can do the

work, the help of a sister will perhaps simplify matters

and give to the rooms a daintier appearance. The Walls and Ceiling of the kitchen and bath-room should be painted with white lead or white enamel.

For

the other rooms select paper having a small design, such as

is

to be

found on most ceiling papers.

If

you have

ever watched the paper-hanger at work, you have noticed

he puts on the ceiling

down ming is

the walls a it off.

no border

little

first,

way

allowing the paper to run

all

Then he hangs

around instead

the wall paper, and

to cover the joints of the ceiling

of

trim-

if

there

and wall

papers he carries the wall paper up to the ceiling. flour paste to stick

graph-print roller to

Use

on the paper, and a cloth or photosmooth out the wrinkles. The din-

ing-room should have a wainscot of dark paper below 105

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

106

the chair-rail, and a paper with

little

or no figure upon

it

above. All

Hardwood

Floors, the stairs, door

and window casings,

baseboards, and picture mouldings should be varnished

thoroughly or given several coats of boiled All

with

floors,

the exception of the kitchen, bath-

room, and hardwood Carpets.

—

If

linseed-oil.

floors,

should be

fitted

with

you do not happen to have

suitable

scraps on hand, they can be procured at almost any fur-

nishing store where they

make up

with as small patterns as possible.

Select pieces

carpets.

The

floors of the bath-

room and kitchen should be covered with oilcloth. Rugs for the hardwood floors may be made out

of

scraps of carpet.

Window-shades linen,

and tacked

of the curtain

opening.

may

be

made

for each

window out

to the top casing so that the

reaches just above

the

also

have

made out

scraps

of

of

bottom

centre of the

Each window should

Lace Curtains

of

lace.

They

should either be tacked above the windows or hung

upon poles made out

of

No. 12 wire, cut in lengths

Screw small brass hooks into the top window-casings for the poles to hang upon. Handsome Portieres for the doorways can be made with to

fit

the windows.

beads and with the small hollow straws sold for use in kindergartens.

Bead

For the

Portieres, cut threads as

long as the height of the

door and string the beads upon them, alternating the

FURNISHING THE DOLL-HOUSE

way

colors in such a

107

Then

as to produce patterns.

the strings together to a piece of wire

the

The

the doorway, and fasten the wire in the opening.

Straw Portieres are made

From magazine

tie

width of

similarly.

you can

illustrations

Suitable Pictures for each room, but

select if

you are handy

you may prefer to make the These may be mounted upon card-

with brush and

pencil

pictures yourself.

board and have their edges bound with passe-partout

may

paper to give the effect of frames, or frames

Hang

out of cardboard and pasted to them. to the picture

A

be cut

the pictures

moulding with thread.

may

Cosey-corner

be

fitted

up

in

the ball-room

by

fastening a strip of a cigar-box in one corner an inch

and one-half above the

and hanging

floor for the seat,

draperies on each side of

Pillows

it.

may

made

be

for

it

out of scraps of silk stuffed with cotton.

A

properly proportioned in every detail,

doll-house

including the selection of

look

at,

of the

and

is

to

furniture,

its

be desired

specimens to be found

is

pleasing to

much more than some

in the stores.

These very

often have parlor chairs larger than the mantel, beds that either

fill

so small they are

other furniture

bedroom space or are hidden from view by the chairs, and

two-thirds of the

accordingly,

all

having been selected

without any thought as to size or

Care must be taken, the

pieces suitable

to

in

fitness.

buying the furniture, to have

the rooms.

It will

no doubt

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

ro8

more time than to purchase the first sets you come across, but when you have completed the selecrequire

tions, the

result will be a

much

better appearing doll-

house.

By

certain of finding

what you want

as about everything imaginable

manufactured. real faucets liers,

you are almost

carefully searching the toy-shops

articles are

expensive

to

fit

in furniture

bath-tubs,

and running water,

and such

rather

Porcelain

for the various rooms,

gilt

tempting

up a house

has been

wash-basins

with

furniture, chandeto buy. in

this

But way,

it

is

for,

though each piece may not amount to very much, they count up very quickly. The suggestions for the making of cigar-box furniture in

the

following

chapter,

Chapter XXVIII, should for furniture

and the

cork furniture in

give you plenty of material

and save you the expense

part of the furnishings for your house.

of

buying

this

CHAPTER

VIII

DOLL-FURNITURE

The when

metal furniture which you can buy

it

long after

new appearance does

new, but this

is

it

very pretty

is

not last

has come into a youngster's possession, for

the pieces are very slender and delicate, and thus easily

broken.

Wooden

furniture

and simple pieces

The designs break

to

the most durable kind, and plain

will generally outlast the

illustrated in this chapter

stantial pieces, as

arms

is

off.

there are no

They

fancy ones.

make very

spindle legs

mission schools, and which in

homes.

handsome

You

or fancy

follow the lines of the mission

furniture, that simple style used in the early

made

sub-

is

American

to-day being extensively

pieces for the furnishings of

modern

will find the

Miniature Mission Furniture, illustrated and described in this chapter, simple to

easy to

sell,

for there

is

make and something which

nothing

like

it

at present

is

upon

the market.

Cigar-boxes furnish the nicest material for making 109

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

no this furniture,

right shape

A

and the various parts can be cut to the

and

size with

Procure small brads and glue

Gig- or Scroll-saw.

with which to fasten the pieces together. use, place them in a them remain there until the

To prepare the Cigar-boxes for tub of boiling water and let

paper labels readily pull

removing wood.

the

paper,

The paper

long enough.

will

When

Do

off.

as

it

come

not use a knife in

liable

is

off

roughen the

to

by allowing

it

the boxes are clean, set

to soak

them

in

the sun to dry, after binding the covers to the backs to prevent

when they

them from warping. are

Pull the boxes apart

thoroughly dry, and throw out such

pieces as have printing

upon them,

the appearance of the furniture

if

for these

would

spoil

used.

In order to simplify the matter of cutting the parts that

make

the furniture, the curved pieces have

been

drawn out carefully on page iii,so they can be laid off upon the strips of cigar-boxes without any trouble, by the process

of

Enlarging by Squares.

one-quarter of their their

height).

To

full

— These

drawings are shown

size (half their

width and half

enlarge them procure a piece of

cardboard nine by thirteen

inches, or

a

little

larger

than twice the size of the drawing each way, and divide it

into squares just twice the size of those on

That

will

make

page in.

sixteen squares in the width of the card-

board and twenty-four in the length, each half an inch

B

k

t

at line

T7 to

21,

and

over the side-pieces

fit

20.

Drawers to

made

No.

line

121

fit

the lower shelves of the dresser

may be

out of small strips of cigar-boxes or pieces of card-

board, glued together.

A

small mirror fastened in the

shown in the drawing will complete the work upon this piece

position

of furniture.

A

Wash-stand can be made for

the bath-room and each of the bed-

rooms similar

to Fig.

138.

The

sides for this should be five inches

high by an inch and one-quarter wide, and the shelves one by three inches.

Fasten the lower shelf

three-quarters of an inch above the base, of

and the top

shelf at a height

two and one-half inches.

When Fig. 138.

— A Wash-stand.

the stand has been put together, fit

a round stick, about an eighth of an inch in diameter,

in holes

made

in the sides

This forms the towel-rack.

with a gimlet (see

Hang

illustration).

a small drapery over

the lower portion of the stand. Finishing.

— When the pieces

of furniture

completed, they should be rubbed

have been

down with emery-

paper to remove the rough edges, and also any rough places that

may have been caused by soaking

the boxes

PROFITABLE PASTIMES in water. oil.

If

Then

give the

wood

This makes a beautiful desired, the

bedroom

white enamel.

The

little

the pieces as

shown

in

brush and red paint, or

several coats of linseed-

finish for this

kind

wood

of

may be painted with may be painted upon

furniture

hearts

the illustration, with a small

may be

cut out of red paper and

glued to the wood.

Other Cigar-box Furniture In Figs. 139 and 142 will be found furniture

that

are

simpler

to

make

some pieces than

that

of

just

described, and although

may

they

not

be

so

they present a

pretty,

good appearance

very

when neatly made. The author constructed many pieces of this furniture when a boy, and found them suitable as presents, besides

that

something

being

was always easy

to

sell.

The set

cost of

amounts

making

a

to but a few

cents, cigar-boxes being Fig.

139.— a

Doll's Folding-bed.

the

principal

material.

DOLL-FURNITURE

They but

are also very quickly made, as the boxes require

little

cutting.

For the construction

A

of

Folding-bed, such as

select

"3

is

two cigar-boxes, one

shown of

will

fit

Fig. 141.

Fig. 140.

other.

The

and

in Figs. 139

which

140,

inside the

— Foot.

— Folding-bed (open).

smaller box should be a

the inside opening of the larger box.

little

shorter than

After removing

the paper from each, place the smaller box inside the

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

"4 larger one, as

shown

the inner box

Then

is

in Fig. 139, so that the

edge

flush with the

drive a brad through

bottom

of

of the outer box.

both boxes on each

side,

about three-quarters of an inch from the end as shown

A

These brads should run through the outer box into the bottom of the inner box, and should at

(Fig. 139).

be driven in carefully so as not to inner box should

now

fold

down

split the

The

wood.

shown in Fig. 140, moving upon the brad pivots. as

Purchase a

five or ten

mirror and

fasten

it

front of the bed, after

to

cent the

which

wooden feet similar 141 and glue the pegs

cut two to Fig.

on the ends

of these in gimlet

made above the mirror. Finish the wood the same as

holes

described for the other cigar-

box furniture.

The Dresser shown 142 Fig. 142.

— Dresser completed.

the

made out same size as is

one used

Saw

in Fig.

of

a

box

the larger

for the folding-bed.

the sides of the box in half, crosswise, and remove

the upper half and the end-piece.

Then

nail the

end

across the tops of the remaining halves of the sides.

When of the

this has

been done, divide up the lower portion

box into compartments as shown

in the

drawing

DOLI^-FURNITURE (Fig.

over

This should have a small drapery hung

143). it.

The upper

portion of the dresser should have

a mirror attached to

some

lace

"5

it,

and

draped over the

top and sides will add greatly to

its

appearance.

All you will have to do in

making

A

Wardrobe

will

be to fasten

some small hooks

inside of

a cigar-box, attach the cover with

a

strip

of

linen

— the —

same way it was attached before you soaked it off and hang a mirror on the front.

These pieces

of

furniture

were designed for separate

FlG

sets,

-

*43—A Doll's Dresser,

and would not do

for

doll-houses the size of those in the preceding chapters,

unless the boxes were cut

down

to smaller proportions.

CHAPTER

IX

A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP

Since the manufacture of printing-presses sizes, it is

printing has

now hard

in

small

become so popular among boys that neighborhood in which there is

to find a

not a press. Printing spelling

is

one of the best methods of mastering

and punctuation, and

thus a great help to

is

a boy in his studies, besides being a pleasant occupation at

which he can earn money. If

you cannot afford a large

press,

be

satisfied

with

a small one for the time being at

least. Get to work, and accurately, and when your your work is of good quality, they will

learn to print neatly friends

find

gladly patronize

you.

Your

you enough with which

to

profits

should soon

net

buy a larger press and

increase your equipment.

After securing a press,

it

will

place in which to keep and use

be necessary to find a

it, where there will be work by and where things are not likely to be disturbed. If you have a workshop, you may be able to make room in it for your outfit.

a

good

light to

126

187

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

128

When

the

became

author

machine, he found

it

proud owner

the

convenient to keep

it

in his

of

a

room

with his type-cases and material beneath the press-stand.

But

in the course of several years the printing-shop re-

new

quired more space than the room afforded, and a office

had

shed,

where a corner was partitioned

This was found in the wood-

to be secured.

window placed

in the

wall,

off,

and the

a double sashed

with a case-rack, imposing-table, stock-stand, and necessities for

an enlargement

shows the arrangement

when

it

again became

space by adding a

"

of

of business.

our shop a few years

mezzanine

to the roof of the shed.

sist of

the

our

later,

floor

story above, extending

This half-story was reached

by means of a ladder, as shown

The

all

Figure 144

necessary to increase "

up

interior fitted

the drawing.

in

principal equipment of a boy's shop should con-

a

number

of cases in

which

to

keep the fonts

of

a rack in which these cases can be kept and at which the typesetting can be done a work-bench, one end of which may be used for an imposing-table and the

type

;

;

other for the press to stand upon for stock

The

and the other

other materials

;

and two cabinets, one

for ink, tools,

required are:

and general

supplies.

a composing-stick,

composing-rule, pair of tweezers, galley, leads, rules, furniture, mitre-box, imposing-stone, quoins, shooting-stick,

mallet, planer, hand-roller,

of ink, ers,

an

and gauge-pins, besides a can

oil-can, a bottle of machine-oil for

washing

roll-

benzine for cleaning type, and a good supply of rags.

An Amateur's

Outfit.

A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP

129

Small presses are usually accompanied by a few fonts of type,

which are

sufficient for printing small business-

cards, etc., but are of so

few

letters as to

make an

With an

nary job of printing impossible.

ordi-

increase of

capital,

Type should be the

addition to your outfit.

first

have to spend, and buy only styles which nicely and which can be of work.

If

will

In

money you

making selections bear in mind the amount of

go together

used for the greatest variety

possible, secure the advice of a printer in

purchasing, as by his experience he can

tell

what you

most require better than you. You can probably obtain a specimen type-book from the type foundry in

will

your city from which

to

make your

selections.

Type-cases divided into small compartments for the various letters and characters, which can be bought for seventy-five cents or a dollar, provide the only satisfac-

means the money

tory

attempt to

of

for

keeping

fonts.

these neatly

make them,

for the

than what you can buy them

It

is

advisable to spend

made boxes rather than work will amount to more

for.

Figures 145 and 146 show the upper and lower newscases with the systems of

"

in printing establishments.

method the tral

principal

"

generally employed

It will

be seen that by this

laying

letters

are

grouped

in the cen-

portions of the case where they are easily reached,

while the less important letters are scattered around the sides.

The

central

boxes

of

the

lower case are also

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

i3

made

larger

largest

box as

than the others,

e

"

being allotted the

used more than any other

is

it

"

letter in

the alphabet.

As the lettering of the spaces and quads in Fig. 145 may be confusing to the beginner, it is perhaps well to SCHEME FOR LAYING CASES.

— nn BnnBBO] DC inn nn ^~

nB.

^mmm

rrnrrrn BBCBBBB IUI1EBEEE BBBBEEB ClEEElEEE BBBBBBB BBBBBBB BBBBBBB BBBBBBB

<

•

if

'

m

B" — C EI

•

1

~~ w

Fig. 145.

Q

-in

T "F :

•

"™" „,

f

1

=

f™ 7

*»• «•*••

— Lower Case.

Fig. 146.

explain that these are based

present a square end, the

two and three

"

m

one-half an " m." fraction

"

"

— Upper Case.

upon the " m 2m " and " 3m

quads

in width,

"

quads which

"

quads being

and an

"

"

n

quad

Likewise spaces are known by the

they represent of an

"

m"

"

4m,"

quad, "

viz.

5m," and

"

3m,"

"

8m "

(more commonly known as hair-space).

The upper and lower Fig. 147.

— The Yankee Job-case.

cases provide for about

every character included in a

complete font of type.

find

the

Yankee

For smaller fonts you

will

job-case very convenient, the letters

being arranged the same in the lower portion, and the capitals being placed in the

upper boxes

(see Fig. 147).

A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP be unnecessary to have

It will

A

Rack

for the Type-cases until

styles of type to

such as

one

131

is

shown

of the

best

your

outfit.

in Fig.

you have added several

Then you

will find a

rack

148

methods

of

keeping the type away from

same time

the dust and at the in

an accessible

place.

This rack should be four feet in height,

the width of

a type-case, and twenty-eight

inches deep, which

enough is

best

large

is

for twelve cases.

made out

It

of four-inch

boards.

Cut the uprights

A

and

E

three feet six inches long, and

B and

Fiowx

top-pieces

feet long.

C and G

The

should be

cut similar to Fig. 149. four-inch

boards,

FlG

-

I4».

— A Type-case Rack.

First lay out these pieces

on

using the dimensions given on the

drawing and being careful

to get

Fig. 149.

both pieces the same.

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

i3*

Having properly marked the pieces, they remain to be cut out with the rip and cross-cut saws. Cut the bottomtwenty-eight inches long, and prepare and pieces twenty-two inch-strips of the same length for cleats.

H

D

One

of the

most particular points

making a rack

of this

kind

is

to be looked after in

the attaching of the cleats,

for unless they

zontal and those I

on a

T

side, the cases will

and

ing trouble.

4

also be

*

4

on one side are

level with those

factorily

left

will

hori-

are perfectly

on the other

not slide in

satis-

be continually caus-

Plenty of space should

between the

cleats

to

prevent the cases from sticking by

b

6

the cleats swelling or warping.

In order to get the cleats in the

4 4

right position, the heights should be laid off

4

Fig.

them.

on the uprights as shown

in

150 and lines squared across

You

will

then have the same

heights on each upright. "

Having prepared the pieces above described, we are ready to put them Lay uprights A and B upon the ground,

Fig. 150.

together.

twenty inches apart, and with the lower ends on a line to them as with one another. Then fasten board

D

upper edge being even with the Drive but one nail in divisions on the upright.

shown first

in Fig. 151, the

A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP each end of

D

the other end

until

Strip

fastened together.

C

of

the frame

is

should be placed as shown

upper edge

in Fig. 151, so that the

133

of

one end

is

even

with the top of upright A, and the upper edge of the other end

three

above the top of upright B.

inches

This gives the proper pitch to the top of the rack.

Then,

measuring

after

the

distance between uprights

and

B

more

see that

to

or

inches, nail after

than

less

C firmly

is

it

A no

twenty to them,

which drive several more

nails into the

When

this

ends of D. has been done,

fasten the cleats in place, so

that the top of each

is

even

with the line squared across the uprights. the

This completes

The

frame.

frame

is

When

made

opposite

similarly.

both frames

have l * tm

been made, they should be fastened together by

means

of the crosspieces

shown

in

which varies

Fig. 148. Measure the width of your cases, somewhat with different makes, and set the frames about half

an inch farther apart than this width.

to

cut

K, and L the correct length and nail Strips the places shown upon the drawing.

the boards

them

Then

/, /,

i

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

34

M and N should

be

fitted

C

between

and

G

to help

support the top.

The

top of the rack

is

made

to hold

two cases at a

time, the lower case on the front part and the upper case

back

of

it.

Cases should be kept out of the dust as

much

as

possible, as dirt accumulates in the boxes very quickly,

and

is

hard to clean out.

It is

therefore a

good plan

to

tack cloth or heavy wrapping-paper to the back, sides,

and below the top of the rack, and provide a curtain to hang over the front when the cases are not in use. When the boxes do become dirty, the dust should be removed by means of a pair of bellows. In composing, or setting type,

A

Composing-stick

in the left hand, as

is

necessary.

shown

in Fig.

This should be held 152, while the right

hand picks up the type one by one and

drops them into the stick,

where the

left

thumb shoves them into place. Fig. 152.

— How

to

Hold the Composing-stick.

^

It

will

seen D y looking

down and from left to right. This may seem awkward at but with practice you will soon become accustomed

at the illustration that the type are set upside

read first,

to reading the letters in this position.

A

Composing-rule, similar to Fig. 153, should be cut out

A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP

135

In typesetting, the rule

of a piece of brass rule.

is first

placed in the stick, and the type then placed against

When

a line has been set

and there

space too small for another word,

still

or reduce the space

sufficiently to sible

add

to

make

it

the

._.

,

word. is

Then

set.

be performed after each line has

place a lead against the type,

the composing-rule from behind the it

— A Composing-rule.

Fig. 153.

as

Justifying, should

been

out the

fill

pos-

This operation, which

known

remains a

necessary to either

it is

place wider spaces between the words to line,

it.

first line,

full

of

type,

out

and place

in front of the lead preparatory to setting a

After composing a stick

lift

new

line.

should be

it

emptied into

A inch

Galley. stuff.

Figure 154 shows a galley made of halfCut the pieces as shown, and fasten them together piece

so

is tilted

keep the

lines

" Pieing "

of Fig. 154.

— A Home-made Galley.

line

them

at

first,

but

if

are gripped at the ends with the of

each hand, there

is

but

little

from falling out

— without

tying

Emptying

may prove

have been properly

bottom-

sufficient to

— or

together.

a stick the lines

the

difficult

justified

and

thumb and first finger danger of making pie.

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

136

The beginner will, however, doubtless pie a number of times, until by experience he proper handling of

his

type

learns the

it.

Proofs are struck while the type

is

in the galley,

by

running an ink-roller over the matter, then placing a

damp

sheet of paper on the type and running a dry

hand-roller over the paper. is

known

rected by

as the "

means

It

should be fully cor-

which can be any dictionary, after which the

of proof-reader's marks,

corrections should be

When

print thus obtained

proof."

first

found in the appendix of proof struck

The

made

and a second

in the type

off.

the matter has been fully corrected,

be placed upon

—a

The Imposing-stone

The Chase

— an

should

piece of marble or other

stone set upon the work table. the type,

it

flat

After properly leading

iron frame cast to hold the type for

— should be placed over The space between the type and chase should then be out with — Furniture. Metal furniture consists hollow metal printing

it.

filled

of

blocks of various

sizes,

while wooden furniture comes

may

be cut up into

Use a mitre-box

similar to the

in strips of different widths,

the lengths required.

one described in Chapter

which

I

in

cutting

the

wooden

furniture.

Locking-up a Form. of

iron

— The type

is

locked-up by means

wedges known as "quoins."

There are two

A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP

"37

forms of these, those driven together by means of a "shooting-stick" and mallet, as

shown

in Fig. 155,

and

those locked by means of

an iron key, such as

is

shown

The

in Fig.

latter

probably

kind

is

most

the

commonly used Before

156.

to-day.

locking

the

form, the type should

be

levelled

planer,

which

with is

a

noth-

ing more than a block

hardwood

of

with

a

smooth, even surface.

The set

planer should be FlG

upon the type and

'

'55— Locking-upaForm.

given a few light raps on the top with the hammer, until the face of the type is even.

Then

lock the form

securely, being careful to have

as equal pressure as possible

on

all sides,

to prevent the type

from springing.

The form

is

then ready for the press. Distribution consists in reFlG.

156.- Key and Quoins.

pladng the types

in

respective boxes after the form has been printed, is

no longer desired.

The matter should

first

their

and

be thor*

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

138

oughly washed, then unlocked.

The

several lines of the type, holding

distributer

them

lifts

out

in his left hand,

with the nicks uppermost and the letters facing him.

One

more words are picked from the top line with the right hand, and each letter is dropped into its box, after which several more words are picked up and or

similarly distributed.

A

few pointers

in

may

regard to presswork

be helpful

to the beginner.

The Tympan, or metal bed upon which the paper printed

make

is

placed, should be

a firm impression, the

depending upon

the

which

slip

The that to

first

is,

means

to

of sheets required

the of

form.

These

the iron clamps

over the ends of the tympan (see Fig. 160). print struck off probably will be imperfect,

some portions

be lighter than others, due

will

uneven impression.

known

number

character of

sheets are held in place by

to be

padded well with paper

This

is

overcome by what

is

as

Make

Overlaying the form.

several

cluding one on the top tympan-sheet. light portions of

a print

impressions, in-

Then

and paste them

cut out the

directly over

the corresponding printing on the tympan-sheet (see Fig. 1

60).

Thin tissue-paper

will

up portions requiring but

be found good for building

little

increase in pressure.

Underlaying consists in pasting strips of

back

of type or cuts

low portions higher.

paper to the

which print unevenly, to make the

A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP

When

the form prints satisfactorily, you must prepare

marginal

the

before running

lines

margins can easily be marked as

*39

When

this

Gauge-pins of some

The

upon the tympan-sheet,

the impression upon

you have

Fig. 160).

off

the job.

off

guide

for a

it

(see

has been done, should

sort

be stuck into the

tympan-sheet along the marginal lines as guides for placing the paper in the press for printing.

Two forms of pins,

these

which can be

Fig. 157.

bought

Gauge-pin withspring-tongue-

Brass-Gauge-pio.

— Two Forms of Gauge-pins.

for twenty-

five or thirty cents

a pair, are

shown

These be no danger of

in Fig. 157.

pins must be so placed that there will

them mashing the type. There are several forms of home-made gauges which may be used, three of which are shown in Figs. 158, 159,

J Fig. 158.

©

\

1

E

^^ Fig. 161.

Paste -Mere.

*""\

Fig. 159.

Fig. 160.

Figs. 158-161.

and

161.

The

first

— Home-made Gauges.

(Fig.

158) consists of an ordinary

pin bent into the shape shown. is

made out

of a strip of

The second

(Fig. 159)

cardboard scored and bent as

PROFITABLE PASTIMES

140

the drawing.

in

in position

Fig.

1

must be pasted

It

prevent

until dry, to

60).

it

in place

and held

from slipping (see

The

third

quad

(Fig. 161), or thin piece of furniture,

consists of a

form

of

home-made gauge-pin

pasted to the tympan-sheet. In Inking the Press be careful to spread the ink evenly

over the disk, and apply just enough to

Too much

clean copy.

produce a smeared

ink

will

clog

make the

a clear,

type and

print.

Ink should not be

left

upon the form

after the latter

has been removed from the press, but should be washed

The

immediately with benzine.

off

disk and

rollers

should also be washed after use, as the ink will not be

good when hard and will become dirty. The Life of a Roller is greatly increased by using machine-oil rather than benzine for washing it. Benzine is

is

too drying for the composition of a roller (which

glue and molasses) and takes the elasticity out of

causing in the

to crack.

it

summer and

Keep

it,

the rollers in a cool place

not in too cold a place in the winter,

for extremes in temperature also affect the composition.

Neatness

is

absolutely necessary in

printing,

and to

secure this you must keep your hands clean so as not to finger-mark your prints.

throwing fall

to

upon

off printed

Care must be taken in

sheets to

freshly printed ones

if

see

that

they do not

these are wet enough

mark them. Materials should be put

away

in their proper places

A BOY'S PRINTING-SHOP after

Do

use.

not

throw type,

141

and furniture

leads,

carelessly about, as they are likely to be lost or

by doing pied

These are

it.

and

leads, furniture,

described

receptacles for

you have an opportunity

type, until

and distribute that

make handy

Cigar-boxes

so.

in

rules in,

Chapter

I

cabinet described in Chapter

made to hold them. The young printer should

useful also

and not scattered

rapidly, and not only

make

increase the danger of

to sort out for

keeping

and a cabinet similar (Fig.

IV

see to

15),

about,

to

or the curio-

(Fig. 59), should be

it

that

Proofs and Scraps of Paper are thrown

basket

broken

as

into

a waste

they accumulate

a shop look very untidy, but

fire.

Oily Rags should be kept in a covered tin can, for

they are liable to ignite to the

air

;

and

of

spontaneously when exposed

course

oils,

should be handled away from use.

gasoline,

fire

and benzine

and corked up

after

CHAPTER X AMATEUR JOURNALISM U-^-

Amateur

by no means a new pastime, no time in its long history has it been

journalism

but probably at

thought as

of as at present.

matter to even roughly estimate

would be a

difficult

number

papers which have been issued in the

It

the

much

is

of

Mr. Edwin

amateur world.

York City has the

Hadley Smith

largest collection

now

New

of

in existence.

amateur papers, 500 amateur books, 800 photographs of amateur journalists, This

at present consists of 22,600

800

professional

and

clippings,

miscellaneous

2,500

The

printed relics dating as far back as 1845. tion,

which

is

the result of

and catalogued, and large libraries, that

will

many

years' work,

soon be placed

in

is

one

collec-

sorted of

our

where the public may inspect the work

has been turned out by amateurs for the past

half century. It

is

said

Benjamin Franklin published an amateur

paper in 1723, when a lad of seventeen years; and in tracing the history of amateur journalism

down

to the

present time, a person would be surprised to find what 142

THE GOLDEN

(The Rational Jmatcur.

state

Interstate""

UNITtft

hie ho 6?-

UNK jj

elir ttln.tmi

~

THE PENNAN1

Amalrur,

AJWATEUil

1uPa0AN

PENCIL.

-

stars

the iliinois amateur.

V-jL/ni\U J THE RANDOM

BL^

[

_

THE INLAND AMATEUR.

[

," T »E

AMATEUR

w^stripf'

_.t.

"•

THE PER,p ATET c ,

opinions ADVANCE.

fmmm

The Dreamer

The Quarterly Review

'terature.

fiffy Eagl,

SANS GENE,

SheMtb

-m

v

S

The

The, Metrop ole.

7jie

Shillalih.

Jtftermatfi.

TRINITY JThc Aincrican A mateur

The Black Book

THE ZENITH &f>o

DECATUR inr; stilus

A Group

of Amateur Papers.

.

AMATEUR JOURNALISM a large

and

number

scientific

of the

men

most successful statesmen,

writers,

country has had were amateur

this

journalists in their

143

younger days.

There are at present in the neighborhood of two hundred amateur papers published in the United States.

A

few

amateurs from

of these papers, representative of

all parts of the country,

have been grouped together and

reproduced opposite page i

4 2,andseveralothersare

shown

EDITORIAL.

in Figs. 162, 163,

164, 165,

and

166.

of space forbids a larger

3"o^

\*^>

which are quite

t&ou

unique and

reflect credit

a***-v\A> "U/w^j

°-»

£>*SXo*u*j

these papers,

display of of

""

It is

to be regretted that lack

many

CHEMISTRY NEWSL

"^^ 00 ^

a

a second a third

first,

two inches over the second, and so on 185 shows a tin cap and nail

The cap

kind of work. nail,

'

l8s

'

especially for this to

fit

over the

and prevents water from running into the hole

made by

the latter.

paper with to

made

punched

is

FlG

Figure

until the entire roof is covered.

keep

it

tar,

It will

as there

be unnecessary to coat the sufficient in its preparation

is

water proof a long time

than the house

itself

will

— probably

longer

be allowed to stand.

upon the ground, but be supported upon four-inch sleepers set as shown The Floor should not be

in

Fig.

The bed

186,

laid directly

with cinders

rammed

of cinders should not be

thick, so there will be

an inch

in

between them.

more than three inches between them

of air space

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

l82

and the

floor.

This

Four-inch boards stood on edge

from dampness.

do very well for the

You

help to keep the floor free

will

will

sleepers.

can probably make a bargain with a carpenter

for

A

Window-sash.

taken from old

— They

buildings,

very often

have a number

which they

will

sell

sum.

small

a

for

gladly

There are two ways in which you can the

fasten

easily

sash in place, either

with

—

% -^ Fig.

and

1

i

86.

r

swing

will

—Construction of Floor.

hinges so

shown

as

in,

in Fio"S

it

1

87

88, or in tracks, to slide as described for the dark-

room window in Chapter XI and illustrated in Fig. 169. If the window is made in the front of the building, as shown in the sketch of the finished club-house, the sash will necessarily

room to

for

swing

it

have to be hinged, as there would not be

to slide sideways.

in as

shown

We will

in Figs. 187

and

therefore hinge

it

The studding

188.

which was placed around the window opening when you erected the framework of the house forms a frame for the sash to set

in.

The

window-sill

is

made out

of a

seven-eighths-inch board cut the width of the opening,

and should be nailed so

it

to the

bottom piece

pitches slightly outwards and

its

of the

frame

edges project a

A BACK-YARD CLUB-HOUSE little

The

beyond the wall inside and out pitch of the

sill

183

(see

188).

can be obtained by blocking the

inner edge with a very thin strip of wood, as

The

the section drawing.

Fig.

but enough space around

sash should it

to allow

Place the sash in the opening with

fit it

its

Cord~~>

shown

in

the frame with to

open

freely.

inside surface

on

ft

(3

winnnw

Fig. 188.

— Section

Fig. 187.

Spring Catch. sui.

— Inside of Window,

through Window.

a line with the inside face of the two-by-four frame, as

shown

in Fig. 188,

and

nail

a seven-eighths-inch win-

dow-stop around the frame outside of the sash to keep the rain and wind from entering.

By hinging the sash in

the illustration,

when opened.

A

it

to the top of the

frame as shown

can be swung up out of the way

spring-catch

should be screwed to

OUTDOOR PASTIMES the bottom

sunk

rail of

the sash with the latch-pocket counter

in the window-sill,

and from the knob

and run through a screw-eye

a cord should be attached

placed in the wall near the ceiling.

be opened by pulling the cord, and

by looping the end

of the catch

of the

The may

cord over a

sash can

now

be held open

Wooden

nail.

buttons should be screwed to the inside edge of the

jambs

tional locks (see Fig.

A

sill

of the

for addi-

187).

should be set in the bottom

door frame, and a seven-eighths

inch stop nailed to the top and to the jambs in the finished the

Make

same way

as

you

window opening.

a Batten Door, fastening the

boards together on the inside with battens as

shown

in

189, with

Fig.

the nails driven through from the outside face and clinched upon the battens. Fig.

1

-A Batten Door.

hinges, and either

s j de

buy an

face

Hinge the door q£

the

j

amb w

iron latch for

it

or

to the inj

th

^^

make

the

old-fashioned

Wooden Latch described and

illustrated in the following

chapter.

With

a

work of the house completed, Calk up the Cracks, of which there will doubtless be great number, unless matched boards have been used the carpenter

A BACK-YARD CLUB-HOUSE This

for the walls.

may be done by

185

rolling pieces of

newspapers into wads and wedging them into the cracks with a pointed

stick.

Several thicknesses of wrapping-

paper tacked over the inside walls

will

help to prevent

make

good foundation for wall-paper should it be placed upon the walls. Earth should be banked up around the outside of Vines trained over the house to keep away the water. the wind from entering, and will also

a

the outside will help to hide the roughness of the boards.

The

club-house interior

ture such as for a Boy's

is

may

be

fitted

described in Chapter IV,

Room."

up with "

furni-

Suggestions

CHAPTER XIV HOW TO

BUILD A LOG-CABIN £aaitSiBB

The ning: of

log-cabin marks what might be called the begin-

American

The

first

form

men upon American

soil.

architecture, for

building built by white

of

it

was the

introduction of saw-mills was very slow, and lumber

so scarce that cabins were the best shelter the colonists

could build to withstand the cold winters and the merci-

With the building of cabin gradually gave way to the frame

less attacks of Indians.

the

saw-mills,

building,

and which was, of But this change course, a more comfortable lodging. first took place up and down the large rivers, where the mills were located, and did not extend into the interior which could be more quickly

built,

some time later, owing to the difficulty lumber to great distances from the mills. until

To-day the log-cabin regions and

among

is still

to

be found

of hauling

in the

timber

the mountains, but mostly for tem-

porary residences, such as

summer homes, camps, and

play-houses.

You

boys

who spend

the

summer

in the

woods should

not miss the opportunity of building yourselves a small 1S6

n

n

is?

1

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

88

Several boys can join forces, and in this

cabin.

make

the work easier and quicker to perform.

Select a Site

on high ground, as near

of timber as possible,

mined largely by the

A

procure.

size,

you

your source

to build

size

it,

which

and amount

of

will

be deter-

timber you can

plan for a cabin simple in construction

Fig.

in

carefully

to

and then decide upon

The Design and Size

shown

way

and while the

190,

worked out will find

ations as you

it

details

is

have been

in this chapter for a cabin of this

a simple matter to

make such

alter-

For the building of more prewould refer his readers to

wish.

tentious cabins, the writer "

Log Cabins and

Cottages

" as

published upon this subject.

the most practical book In this volume

its

author,

Mr. William S. Wicks, has not only written upon the construction and treatment of cabins, but also brought

number

of clever designs that

showing a great variety have been built in different sec-

the country.

In carrying out the details of

together a

tions

of

of sketches

construction for the cabin described in this chapter, the writer has

book,

made

use of a

number

through the courtesy of

of ideas

Mr. Wicks

from

this

and

his

publishers.

Of course the most

of

The Material for the cabin

will

be secured near at

hand, but for a good roof, and the finishing of the door

and window openings, a few boards should be taken along, together with several pounds of nails.

HOW TO

BUILD A LOG-CABIN

189

While it is customary to lay up the walls of a cabin and then cut the door and window openings, you will find

a very

it

much

simpler matter to leave the spaces

them when laying up the logs, as it greatly decreases the number of long logs required to build the cabin. As the inside dimensions of the cabin shown in the plan

for

of Fig. 190 are ten

that

by twelve

feet,

the full-length logs

those above and below the

is,

openings

— should

of the cabin

and

—

window and door

be thirteen feet long for the ends

fifteen feet for the front

To start the Cabin, stake out

its

and rear

walls.

length and breadth

upon the ground, clear the space of all trees and brush, and make the ground as nearly level as possible. You unnecessary to have a

will find it

foundation for a cabin of this as

it

will

size,

not settle to amount to

anything.

Probably the most simple way joining

of

what

is

the

known

logs

together

is

as

The Lock-joint. a notch

— As

shown

in

CUt in the logs

FlG

^i-The

Fig.

I

will

be brought together when the ends are

I,

is

'

Lock-joint,

9 twelve inches from each end, so the surfaces of the logs

one another, as shown

in the

fitted

over

drawing.

Select two fifteen-foot logs for

The

them an inch or so into the ground, each other and ten feet apart. Then after

Sills,

parallel to

and

set

i

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

9o

cutting the notches in two thirteen-foot logs,

over the

sills

so

must be

mark out upon

which should be

Then

The opening

twelve inches from the ends.

for the fire-place

left in

them

fit

one end

of the cabin,

the end log the width of this opening,

five feet,

and cut out

this section of

it.

cut two boards three feet long, the height of the

and nail them to the ends of the log These boards form the jambs of the opening.

fire-place opening,

just cut.

Locate a three-foot door opening in the centre of the front sill-log,

and saw along these

lines to within

two

inches of the ground, cutting out the piece between.

The remaining

Two

two-inch piece will form the

door-sill.

pieces of board six feet six inches long, the height

of the

door opening, should now be cut for the door-

jambs and nailed

to the

ends of the

the door

sill-log in

opening.

After testing the jambs with a plumb, such as in Fig. 14,

Chapter

is

shown

to see that they are perpendicular,

I,

continue laying the side and end logs alternately. the logs between the

jambs and

ends, being careful not to get

doing be of the

so.

Above

full length,

windows

them out

the fire-place the logs

and

will

Fit

nail the latter to their

of

plumb

will, of

in

course,

at a height of four feet four inches

start.

Locate the window openings

twenty-six inches wide upon the logs laid at this height, the one opposite the fire-place in the centre of the wall, and the others twelve inches from the corners. Cut the jambs twenty-six inches long, and, after setting them in

HOW TO place, continue laying

BUILD A LOG-CABIN up the

logs, fitting

191

the

shorter

lengths between the jambs as before.

When

the

desired

height of

reached, which need not be will

be ready

To construct the Roof.

doing

this,

walls

has

more than seven

— There

but as simple as any

Fig. 192.

the

is

— Interior

are

that

several

shown

feet,

been

you

ways

of

in Fig. 192,

of Cabin.

and

in the illustration of the finished cabin.

this

form of roof the end logs are placed one above the

other, but each tier of front

and rear logs

In laying

is

set in a

1

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

92

little

farther than the preceding pair, until they finally

meet

at the

peak

The

of the roof.

generally thatched or covered with

The thatched

boards. last

from ten to

unless

it

is

likely

is

is

fifteen years

straw

the

woven,

roof

roofs of cabins are

or

bark, shingles,

the most artistic, and will

when properly made

but

;

put on very thickly and closely leak.

to

If

you use shingles and

expose each four and one-half inches to the weather, you will require

about seven quarter-thousand bunches for a

roof of this size.

Boards covering.

make the most simple and inexpensive They should be put on as shown in the draw-

will

A

ing of the completed cabin, and in Fig. 192.

boards

is first

layer of

nailed across the roof-supports four inches

and other boards then lapped over these spaces

apart,

and nailed

in place.

The

roof boards should project a

few inches over the side walls and gable-ends of the

When

cabin. it

all

of the

boards have been put in place,

be necessary to finish off the ridge with

will

Ridge Boards, to prevent water from leaking through

As shown

the roof at that point.

two boards nailed along the

sist of

of

in Fig. 192, these con-

ridge,

and the edge

one nailed to the edge of the other. It is

A using

not advisable to build

Log Chimney and Fire-place with the intention it,

for unless the

kept in repair, there the cabin.

is

work

is

very carefully done and

always danger of setting

But, nevertheless,

it

of

should be

built,

fire to

as

it

HOW TO

BUILD A LOG-CABIN

belongs to a cabin and adds greatly to

193

picturesque

its

appearance.

With

up the chimney

large logs build

two

five feet, or

same manner

above the

feet

you did the cabin walls, against the logs of the main structure. as

been done sink a number of stones

shown

place for a hearth, as also line the

bottom

to a height of

fire-place opening, in the

in

When

this has

in front of the fire-

Figs. 190

and

Then

mix up some clay and

line the back, sides,

the fire-place with

from ten to twelve inches

packing the clay part of the

until

it

becomes

chimney should be made

and the work proceeds.

sticks,

and

192,

of the fire-place with them.

it

ends

fitting the

and jambs

of

thick,

The upper

solid.

and

of smaller logs

inside of the flue lined with clay as the

The

exterior

of

the

chimney

will

be

seen in the illustration of the finished cabin.

When

the construction of the cabin has been com-

pleted,

Calk

all

the Spaces between the logs with

clay

and

moss, to keep out the weather, using a pointed stick for this operation;

below the that

and grade the ground up

line of the door-sill all

no surface-water

The

will

to a point just

around the cabin, so

run within.

finishing of the interior of the cabin

to be done.

By omitting

a

wooden

floor

now remains the cost of

material will be reduced considerably, and there

is

really

has been properly prepared.

The

nothing objectionable to

A Mud

Floor

if

it

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

194

earth should be thoroughly dried out and packed until

down

hard and compact, and slightly banked up around

the walls.

The

sills

and heads

of

The Window Openings and the head

of the

door open-

ing should be cased with boards the width of the jambs. If

you can secure sash

windows, hinge them to

for the

the inside edges of the jambs as

shown

Fig.

in

190,

and

nail

a

seven-eighths-inch window-stop

around the jambs outside

of

them,

wind and rain from around the sash (see

to prevent the

getting in Fig-

193).

obtained, to

fit

sash

If

wooden

cannot

shutters

they can be used at night

and whenever you wish cabin,

you

will

to close

and when you are

within the cabin in the FlG# I93>

made

the opening will do very

well, as

up the

be

summer

want the windows open.

After cutting boards of the proper length for

The Cabin Door, fasten them together with placed

at

the

Then hinge

top,

battens

bottom, and centre (see Fig. 194).

the door to the inside of

the

jamb with

either iron strap-hinges or

Wooden Hinges such as are shown in Fig. 194. To set of wooden hinges, first cut three blocks of

make a

HOW TO wood four or

BUILD A LOG-CABIN

inches long and

five

nail

195

them

to the

cabin wall on a line with the three door battens (see

A,

C in Fig. 194). Then prepare three pieces of wood eighteen inches long and two inches wide, and bore a small hole through one end of each, as shown at

B, and

D

Fig.

in

have been made,

these

them

nail

When

195.

door

the

to

W

Latch-string.

above the battens so that

G

when

the door

put in

is

But fo o—

place their ends will rest

on blocks A, B, and Locate the holes

C.

ji' j Guard'

Bolt or

Catch

PeQ

the

in

eighteen-inch strips upon

A, B, and

C,

and bore

holes through the blocks

these

at

points,

which

set

place

and

arms the

fasten

shown

as

cut to

You

fit

in

C

the

Batten

^r

hinges to either

blocks,

bolts,

door

the

the

of

after

Fig. 194.

with

in

Fig.

194,

or

— The Cabin Door.

with hardwood pegs

the holes.

will find the old-fashioned

Wooden Latch and

latch-string a very

viceable fastening for a cabin

making and 199.

of

which are shown It

good and

ser-

door, the details for the

in Figs. 194, 196, 197, 198,

consists of three pieces of wood,

—a

strip

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

196

two

feet

long and two inches wide for the

the ends rounded and a hole bored through

latch, it

at

with

E and

another at F, as shown in Fig. 196; a guard cut similar 197, with a slot in

to Fig.

it

about three and one-half

inches long and one inch deep

;

and a catch similar to

Latch -string Oo-Oi'tscde

«pa

of-

Cabin Door.

Catch FlG.137.

Guard FlG.198.

Tig. 139. :>

srtole

1

1

l

I

V

forBoltorWoodenPea.

Li.

FlG.195.

ttlttGE.

GE

J Fig. 196.

— Details

Figs. 195-199.

Fig. 198, with

its

will find it

places

shown

in

of Cabin Door.

upper edge rounded so the latch

easily slide into the slot.

you

Latc/i,

With

an easy matter to fasten them Fig.

194.

The

jamb of the door as shown

will

the pieces thus prepared

catch

is

set

in the

into the

in Fig. 198, the latch

is

HOW TO

BUILD A LOG-CABIN

screwed to the door at E, and the guard

shown

the latch in the position

The Latch-string

is

is

197

fastened over

in Fig. 194.

fastened to the latch at

F and y

run

through a hole bored in the door above the top batten.

To

the outside end of the latch-string attach a weight

some kind

of

to

(see Fig. 199).

find a

will

keep

To

lock the door from the inside, you

wooden button screwed

(Fig. 194) very good, as lifted,

As

from pulling through the hole

it

when turned

it

against

in the case of the

to

the door at

G

prevents the latch from being it

as

shown

in the illustration.

windows, a seven-eighths-inch stop

should be nailed to the door head and jambs outside of the door, for the door to swing against, and to keep out the rain and wind (see Fig. 193).

You

will

have need of but few pieces of furniture

within the cabin, and those can be

made very

simple,

out of material at hand.

A

Mantel-shelf out of a board five feet long should be

fastened above the fire-place by

means

of three triangular

good idea to make your Provision Cupboard to sit upon this, as shown in the drawing of the cabin interior (Fig. 192). Use a couple of the boxes in which you bring your camping outfit for this. Set them side by side, as in the illustration, place a shelf or two within them, and, after battening the cover boards together, attach them to the ends of

brackets,

and

it is

a

the boxes with hinges cut out of leather.

On

each side of the fire-place a comfortable

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

198

Rustic Seat should be built in as shown in Figs. 190

and

192.

of this.

The drawings clearly show The two legs are driven well

the construction into the ground,

and a crosspiece is nailed to their tops to support the Make the top of the seat about sticks forming the seat. eighteen inches above the ground.

While a very comfortable bed may be made upon the ground out of pine boughs, it is well to have at least Two Bunks for guests, who are almost certain to pay you a visit to see what kind of a time you are having, and perhaps test your cooking. These bunks may be double-decked and placed in the corner where they will be pretty well out of the way (see Figs. 190 and 192). Two six-foot poles should be driven into the ground about thirty inches from the wall, and two cross poles notched and fitted on to them as shown in Fig. 192, one six inches above the ground and the other three feet above that. Cut a number of sound sticks about three feet long and drive one end of each between the logs and fasten the other end to the crosspiece These sticks should be placed about three opposite. In putting up this framework make everyinches apart. thing very strong and solid, to prevent any mishaps to

of the wall

the occupants.

The bunks should now be covered

with

pine boughs, cut into small pieces and spread over the sticks evenly

and

to a

depth of two inches.

When

these

have been properly placed, spread a doubled quilt or blanket over them, and the bunks will be completed.

Two

Simple Cabins.

HOW TO As we to the

danger of setting

will find

A

it

fires,

owing

the cabin through

fire to

workmanship, or the cracking

your camp

lining, build

when

199

decided not to use our fire-place for

defects in the

You

BUILD A LOG-CABIN

some

of the clay

fire-place outside of the cabin.

more enjoyable

to also eat in the

open

the weather permits, so build

Camp-table between the trees for this purpose.

may be made

It

out of two eight-inch boards fastened to-

gether on the under side with battens, and supported at

one end on a cleat nailed across the trunk

and

at the other

The

be determined by the

height of this table will

height of the seats.

It is

boxes,

or whatever you use for

stools,

make

a simple matter to

on each side

of a tree

on two poles driven into the ground.

of the table,

and

if

them eighteen inches high and the

a long rustic seat

this

is

done make

table twelve inches

higher.

Those of you who have camped have probably had enough experience to know what utensils and provisions are required, but

A Few

Pointers

may be

never been initiated into

profitable to the

camp

boy who has

life.

commonest kind should be taken along. An old frying-pan, a coffee-pot, two water pails, a tin pan and wash-basin, tin plates and drinking cups, some old spoons, knives, and forks, a can-opener, and a jackUtensils of the

knife are about

all

you

will

be

in

need

of.

Among

Other Necessities are blankets, towels, dish-cloths, rags,

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

aoo

soap, rope,

and

string, matches, a lantern,

and an

axe, a

saw, and nails.

For Provisions, take as as

it

requires but

little

not likely to spoil.

included in your fare, are

much canned

preparation,

is

Bacon and eggs

list,

food as possible,

easily carried,

are, of course, to

as they belong to a camper's

very satisfying to a fellow's appetite

has returned to

camp hungry

after a day's

the woods, and a boy will have but

ing them.

Be sure you know how

and

little

to

be

bill o'

when he

tramp through

trouble in cook-

prepare whatever

food you take along to cook, before starting for camp,

and don't experiment upon dishes you have never attempted, or you will probably make a mess of your materials, as

be

will not site of

for

is

fit

generally the case, the result of which

to eat.

Should there be fishing near the

your camp, learn the proper preparation of

your

table.

fish

K2.J*

J

4~r\^

CHAPTER XV HOW TO

BUILD A CANVAS

CANOE

Canoeing

is

a most delightful outdoor sport, and one

of the healthiest in

vacation days. visiting

which a boy can indulge during popularity can

Its

plainly be seen

his

by

any lake or stream, and noting what a large

percentage of the small craft dotting

canoes of various shapes and

sizes,

its

surface are

paddled by boys

of all ages.

For speed and the ease with which it can be carried about, the birch-bark canoe has no equal, but very few boys

own them,

struction

which

is

as they are expensive,

more

difficult

will satisfy a

The canvas canoe it is

and the cost

boy fully as well. more widely used

is

very simple to of its

their con-

than those of other material

time than any other form, which fact that

and

material

is

at the present

no doubt due

make and keep is

to the

in repair,

small.

In building a canvas canoe there are two important

things to consider,

—

its

depend upon the material used. be made

stiff

enough

These The framework must

weight and strength.

to hold

its

shape, as the canvas

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

202

adds but

little

to

wood should be

strength,

its

and

same time the There are a great

at the

as light as possible.

variety of

Materials from

which

choose

to

for

building

the

among which basswood, ash, spruce, and The canoe described and illustrated in this chapter may have its ribs, ribbands, and gunwales made out of lattice-strips and barrel-hoops,

framework, pine

may

which

be classed.

save the cost of having them cut to the right

will

size at a mill.

Pine or

fir

lattice-strips of

good sound

stuff are generally easy to obtain in all locations.

SIZES OF STRIPS i

AND PIECES REQUIRED

piece of 2-inch by 8-inch plank 6 feet long for

15

bow and

stern pieces.

2-inch by f-inch lattice strips 12 feet long for ribbands, gunwales, keel,

and

bilge-keels.

20 barrel-hoops for ribs and deck braces. 1

strip 8 feet long, 2 inches wide,

2 strips

and

1

inch thick for keelson.

4 feet long, 2 inches wide, and f-inch thick for deck ridge pieces.

2 strips 8 feet long,

4 inches wide, and ^-inch thick

for cock-pit

frame

and coaming. Several 6-inch and 8-inch boards from which to cut deck beams, patterns, etc.

Copper

nails

and brass screws should be purchased

for fastening the

for putting

break

off,

framework together, and copper tacks

on the canvas.

Iron

nails will

and therefore should not be used

of the canoe's construction.

Use

and

any part

where

their

in all cases where this For covering the framework, three

ends can be clinched, and screws

cannot be done.

nails only

in

rust

HOW TO and one-half yards

BUILD A CANVAS CANOE of

canvas forty inches wide will be

required for the lower portion, and thirty inches

linseed-oil

wide

will

drab, or

mixed paint

of

same amount

filling

Boiled

the canvas

for painting

A

it.

cream color and white trimmings, are both

suitable for a canoe. paint, and, after strips,

the

be required for the deck.

should be purchased for

and the best grade

303

mix the

If

the latter

is

used,

buy white

pouring out enough to cover the finishing rest

with enough yellow ochre to

make

a

pretty shade of cream.

Below

will

to build a

be found a

canoe such as

bill

of the material required

this

chapter describes, and

although the prices of canvas and a few of the

fittings

are likely to fluctuate somewhat, the price of the canoe

should not exceed this amount, and there are locations

where

it

may be

less.

BILL OF MATERIAL 3^ yards No. 10 Duck, 30 inches wide, 27 cents 3^ yards No. 10 Duck, 40 inches wide, 36 cents i^- pounds 1 -inch Copper Nails, 30 cents . 2

pounds f-inch Copper Tacks, 35 cents dozen f-inch Brass Screws (Flat Heads),

$0.95 1.26 •45

.70

.

7 cents

.14

6 dozen f-inch Brass Screws (Flat Heads), 6 cents

.36

2

3 dozen f-inch Brass Screws

.... ....

(Round Heads), 6 cents

\ gallon Boiled Linseed-oil \ gallon Best Quality Mixed Paint 15 Lattice-strips, 12 feet long 1

.

Piece of 2-inch by 8-inch Plank 6 feet long

Miscellaneous Strips and Pieces (see page 202)

Total cost

„

.18 •25 -75

.90

.20 »5Q

#6.64

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

304

Having procured the necessary material the

first

The

way

things to

Bow

make

are

and Stern Pieces (see Fig. 200).

of laying these out

for the canoe,

— The proper

on the eight-inch plank in Fig. 201.

plank in

half,

shown

is

First cut the

and then place

these two pieces side by side

upon the

floor or

shown

as

in

work-bench

the

drawing

piece upon which to draw the pattern, and the other upon which to locate

one

the centre for drawing the Fig. 200.

line

and locate the points

Then square

curves.

— Bow and Stern Pieces.

AB

D and E on

the

across the planks,

either side of

it,

by

means of the measurements given upon the drawing. The most satisfactory scheme for Drawing the Curves is with a piece of cord, to one end of which a pencil has been tied (see Fig. 201). With this as your compass, hold the end of the cord at for a

D

centre, strike

and with a radius

of ten

an arc cutting the line

and one-quarter inches

AB

as at C.

the required centre for drawing the

curves.

C

is

now

Drive a

small nail into the plank at C, and wind the end of the

compass cord around is

it

until the correct length of radius

obtained (see drawing).

a radius equal to

CD>

Describe the arc

or ten and

DE

with

one-quarter inches.

HOW TO Then

BUILD A CANVAS CANOE

with a ruler lay off along the line

tances for the other arcs, as will

be two inches from

from FG, and

Having

located

JK

shown

DE,

HI

AB

205

the dis-

in the drawing.

FG

an inch and one-half

an inch and one-quarter from HI.

these

points

and described the

arcs,

Fig. 201.

CD

and CE, extending them so as to cut off the arcs, as in the drawing. At the upper end of the pattern draw the line one inch from and parallel to FD. With a radius of an inch and threequarters and the centre describe an arc as shown

draw the

lines

LM

N

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

206

At

in the drawing.

OP QR

the line the line

the lower end of the pattern draw

two inches from and one inch from and

GK, and PK. Hav-

parallel

to

parallel to

ing carefully drawn out this pattern, turn over the plank

and draw the same thing upon

it,

locating the points

exactly opposite one another, by squaring lines across

the sides and edge.

To

similarly.

Prepare the other piece of plank

shown

in

DE

and FG, and

f^fyH]

that side.

^-^^S^isj^T

been trued

Pig. 202.

— Section

through

at a time,

in the

and rabbet the

FG

and HI, as This done the section drawing, Fig. 202. reverse the piece and do the same to

between

surfaces

them

cut out the patterns, place

your work-bench, one

vise of

When up

these surfaces have

piece from the vise and

Bow and

tem from

Stern Pieces.

it

remove the

carefully,

j

saw the

n do j ° thi

pat-

saw

firgt

cut DJ Then follow out the corners FLMD and PQRK. roughly the curves of lines DE and JP after which

and

along the lines

EK, and t

place the work in the vise and trim them off nicely with a draw-knife, rounding the Fig. 202.

The

portion

a plain surface as

outer curve as shown

OQRG

shown

should be cut

down

in

to

in Fig. 200.

With the bow and stern pieces completed, the most difficult part of your work has been accomplished.

Now

pick out the eight-foot strip procured for

The Keelson.

— Square

eight feet long,

off the

ends so that

and then, commencing

it is

exactly

six inches

from

HOW TO one end, lay

off

BUILD A CANVAS CANOE

mortises for the ribs (see

These mortises should be cut width

of

the

half

Fig. 203).

an inch deep and the

barrel-

tiitt for Pibi U'Apart To be Wtcrth of Bo r ret troops

hoops, and their centres

207

>-

should be spaced

I

and

Deep

tt-

Z£ Fig. 203.

twelve inches apart.

>/2

-The

Keelson.

In order to give the correct shape to the canoe in

putting the framework together,

it

will

be necessary to

make

A

Mould similar

Fig.

to

Fasten together two

204.

boards about two feet long with battens, as shown in the drawing, and with a piece of cord to

which a pencil has been attached describe a semicircle

upon radius Fig. 204.

and

in the centre of the

two inches by one-half

eleven

out the mould

bottom cut a mortise

for the keelson to

Everything should now be

of

a

and one-half inches.

— The Mould.

Saw carefully,

using

it,

fit

in.

in readiness

To put the Framework together.

— In order

to give the

keelson the proper slope of one inch between

its

centre

and ends, nail two blocks of wood one inch thick to the work-bench eight feet apart, and rest the ends of the keelson upon them.

Then

fasten the ends of the keel-

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

208

son in the mortises cut in the bottom of the

bow and

Set the mould which you have prepared

stern pieces.

over the exact centre of the keelson, and fasten

When

place temporarily.

this has

it

in

been done take two

lattice-strips for

The Gunwales, and each, screw just

them

below the

after locating the exact centre of

at this point to the

ends of the mould

Drive these screws but part way

top.

in,

removed later on. Commencing at the bow end of the canoe, draw the end of one gunwale to the bow piece, and, after marking it the correct as the

mould

length cut

it

to be

is

off so

the side of the

bow

it

will

piece.

fit

nicely in the rabbet cut in

Then screw

the other end to

the stern piece, after which attach the gunwale on the opposite side in the

Now ribs,

same way

(see Figs. 200, 205,

and

206).

take the barrel-hoops which are to be used for

and fasten them

in the mortises cut for

keelson, bending their ends until they

the gunwales.

Then

fasten

them

them

come

to the

in the

inside of

gunwales and

trim their ends so as to be even with the top of the

canoe (see Figs. 205 and

206).

After fastening the ribs in place,

The Ribbands should be put on.

Pick out eight of the

soundest lattice-strips you have, and fasten these at their centre to the sides of the mould, placing four on each side of the keelson

and spacing them

As

only temporary, do not fasten the

the

mould

ribbands to

it

is

at equal distances.

securely, but drive in the nails part way.

209

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

2IO

Then, beginning ribbands to the off so

in

they will

place,

at

bow fit

the

bow, draw the ends of the

them Screw them

piece one at a time, and cut

neatly into the rabbet.

being careful

to

space

them

equally as

as

which attach the stern ends in the same Figure 205 shows the top view of the canoe at

possible, after

way.

this stage of its construction.

The Deck Beams should now be made and put in place, one each side of the cockpit, or fourteen inches from * o- .5V- -M- *• £_x_% Morti se for El d£ e

the centre of the

canoe (see

Fig.

At

this

207).

the •jrxi

measure

point

— Deck Beam,

Fig. 208.

exact

dis-

Tongue^

between

tance

gunwales,

the

tlortf.se

and

lay

it

off

upon a four-inch Fig. 209.

The

top of

this piece

=tS=*5

Figs. 208-211.

Fig.

208).

rMortises for Deck braces. Fig. 211.

board (see

be

— Ridge Piece.

— Details of Deck Beam and Ridge.

should

curved

shown drawing,

in

as

the

and a

mortise two inches wide by five-eighths of an inch

deep should be cut in the edge for the deck ridge pieces to

fit

in.

As

wales from spreading,

a

means it

is

of

preventing the gun-

best to dovetail the ends

HOW TO the

of

BUILD A CANVAS CANOE

deck beams into them

(see

Fig.

211

Cut a

207).

tongue half an inch long and half an inch thick on each

end it

beams, as shown

of the

Fig. 209, undercutting

in

drawing, to

slightly, as in the

make

it

wedge-shaped.

Then, having prepared the ends, place the beams

in the

positions they will occupy in the framework, and

upon the top

of the

gunwales the shape

mark

of the tongues.

Mortise the gunwales at these points (Fig. 210), so the

tongues can be slipped into them and fastened in place.

By examining the corners

how

of a

drawer you

is

made.

The Ridge Pieces are

strips

the dovetail joint

beams

to the

207).

For

bow and

running from the deck

stern pieces (see Figs. 206

this canoe, they

beams

of

an inch thick.

Cut

from the mortises in the

of correct length to reach

tops of the deck

and

should be made out of a strip

two inches wide by five-eighths

them

will see clearly

to the mortises cut in the tops of

the bow and stern pieces. Mortises two inches wide and a quarter inch deep should be cut along the top of

these ridges, as

deck braces.

shown

in

Fig. 211, to receive the

Securely screw the ridges in place.

Then

cut twelve pieces of barrel-hoops for

The Deck Braces, and the ridge pieces.

ends

until they

gunwales.

fit

them

Screw these

in the mortises

in place

made

and bend

in

their

can be fastened to the inside face of the

The

curve of these braces should be the

same as that of the deck beams, so it will be possible put on the deck canvas neatly (see Figs. 206 and 207).

to

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

212

The

space between the deck beams

is left

for

The Cockpit, the frame for which we are now ready

to

remove the mould, being careful that the framework does not spread in doing so. Then cut two two-inch strips to fit between the deck beams, and fasten prepare.

First

one on each side

gunwale

the cockpit two inches from the

of

When

(see Fig. 207).

the strip

eight feet

been done take

this has

inches wide, and

long, four

one-

quarter inch thick, procured for the cockpit frame, and

bend

it

around the opening, fastening

the deck

beams and

the frame should

so that

it

will

the side strips.

now be shaved

off

it

to the sides of

The

top edge of

with a draw-knife,

be on a line with the deck braces at every

point (see Fig. 206).

This

is

make

necessary in order to

the curve of the deck around the cockpit the

same

as

elsewhere.

The framework

of the

should be painted and

canoe

left to

now

is

completed, and

dry before you go on with

the rest of the work. It is

no easy matter

to stretch

The Canvas Covering over the framework without having

it

wrinkle, but with the help of a boy friend

it

be stretched fairly even, and with care and patience

can

may

be made to look neat.

Turn

the framework bottom side

up and,

after finding

the centre of the forty-inch strip of canvas, lay

the

keelson from

bow

surface with your hands,

to stern.

and

start

Smooth

it

it

along

over the

a few tacks along the

HOW TO keelson to hold

it

BUILD A CANVAS CANOE

As

place.

in

a

means

213

keeping

of

the canvas stretched over the bottom of the framework

while working upon

edges

attach several weights to

it,

the

then, with your helper on the side opposite you,

;

commence

at the

middle

rib

and stretch the canvas down

that rib to the gunwales, starting a couple of tacks in

the gunwales to

hold

place.

in

it

Then work along

each rib from the centre of the framework toward the

bow, and then from the centre toward the stern, stretching the canvas as tightly as possible, and driving tacks

along the gunwales not farther than one inch apart.

You

will

smoothly

only way to get the canvas on by removing the tacks wherever any wrin-

find that the is

kles appear and, after restretching

As

it,

replacing the tacks.

the tacks will probably have to be removed a

of times

them

in

most

It is

stern,

during the operation, but a

little

difficult

is

advisable to drive

way at first. to make a neat job

and a few wrinkles

how much

it

will

number

at the

bow and

probably remain, no matter

pains are taken in fitting the canvas, on ac-

count of the narrowing of the canoe at these points. Fill

the outer mortise

made

in the

bow and

stern pieces

with paint, and, after folding the edges of the canvas, tack

it

in

as their heads paint,

will

Place

these mortises. will

make

permit,

a joint

which,

the

tacks

as

close

together with

that water cannot

the

penetrate.

Now examine the canoe carefully, and, if you have smoothed out the wrinkles as much as possible, drive

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

2i4

home

the tacks and trim the canvas close to the gun-

wales.

The Deck

is

of thirty-inch

much

easier to cover.

canvas over

Spread the piece

from bow to

it

stern,

with the

centre of the canvas running along the centre of the deck, and place a tack in

the stern.

when

bow and another

at

manner

as

Stretch the canvas in the same

covering the bottom of the framework, and lap

over the gunwales, tacking

through the canvas there will be just

frame.

at the

it

Trim

it

at the

enough

Cut

along the outer edge. cockpit,

to lap

and trim

it

it

off so

around the cockpit

the canvas along the gunwales so that

it

does not project more than an inch. After the deck has been covered, the canoe for

Painting.

— A coat

to the canvas, to

fill

tion for the paint.

of linseed-oil should first

the pores and

Then

oughly, after which give

it

ready

be applied

a good founda-

allow the canvas to dry thor-

it

a coat of paint,

whatever color you have selected. rub

make

is

down with pumice-stone

When

— cream, or

this has dried,

or fine emery-paper, and

apply a second coat. All that

now remains

to

complete the canoe

attachment of the cockpit coaming, the

and the outside gunwales. long, four inches wide,

you procured

Take

is

the

keel, bilge-keels,

the strip eight feet

and one-quarter inch

thick,

which

for

The Cockpit Coaming, bend

it

around the frame

of the

HOW TO pit,

and cut

off the

Then

neatly.

BUILD A CANVAS CANOE

ends so they

will join

to the

cockpit

fasten

it

two inches

frame, allowing

above the deck, and shave

to project off the top

edge the same as you did the cockpit frame, so

it

will

be two inches above

the deck at every point.

For a small canoe only,

it

built for paddling

unnecessary to have anything

is

more than a

strip fastened to the

bottom

for

The Keel.— So cut a feet in length,

bottom

lattice-strip eight

and screw

it

along the

of the keelson (see Fig. 212).

The Bilge-keels are

lattice-strips fas-

tened along the sides of the canoe as a protection to the canvas, and should be

attached directly over the ribbands. of these

on the centre ribband

of

One each

side will be sufficient (see Fig. 212).

For a

finish

to

the upper edge

of

the canoe, Outside Gunwales should be attached outside of the present ones.

These

will

cover the joint between the canvas of the deck and the lower portion of the

framework.

All of these outside strips

should be fastened in place

with

the

n

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

«i6

round-headed screws, after which they should be painted Figure 212 shows the canoe completed.

A

Seat

desirable for the bottom of the canoe, for

is

comfort as well as to prevent your feet from wearing .

,_,

out the

.

,_,

/

\ :R

q

Fig. 213.

seat should be movable,

p

=s=\

so

— Seat.

jt ,

ma y .

fo

the bottom of the canoe, and

e

ta

k en ou t

,

to drain the

e

water from

may be made

Batten together two six-inch

in Fig. 213.

This

canvas.

shown boards upon as

under face and notch the two side edges to

their

fit

over

the ribs of the framework (see Fig. 207).

In order to keep your canoe in good condition, do

not allow

time

it

to

remain in the water for any length

when not using

doing turn

so.

as the canvas

After a spin, pull

upside

it

it,

down

to dry

it

would soon

of

by

out of the water, and

then put

;

rot

it

away under

cover to remain until again wanted for use.

With

the greatest of care a boy will puncture

canoe once in a while, so

know

How

to

mend Punctures.

it

is

his

a good idea for him to

— There

are several

ways

of

by either sewing a piece of canvas over the puncture and then painting it with white lead, or daubing the canvas around the hole with varnish, and then laying a canvas patch over it and doing

this,

varnishing

but the best

is

it.

The making

of a well-shaped paddle is

no easy matter

HOW TO for

an amateur

BUILD A CANVAS CANOE

to accomplish, so

217

advisable for a boy

it is

to procure

A

Hand-made Single Paddle, such as can be bought This

a dollar and a half.

is

generally

spruce, with a copper-tipped end, and

The

made is

for

of selected

nicely finished.

length of the paddle will depend upon the size of

the boy

who

is

going

to use

it,

but should be between

four feet six inches and five feet. It

may

be well to warn those

who

build canvas canoes

about the ease with which they are overturned. as the boy remains seated he

moment he attempts be surprised

mon

if

to

change

in canoe-racing,

his efforts to beat out his to the

his position,

and especially

after

bathing suit

long

he need not

Upsets are comin a

close finish,

another overbalances himself in

companions.

But these only

fun of such a race, and no harm

canoeist prepares for

As

perfectly safe, but the

he receives a ducking.

where one paddler add

is

done

if

the

them beforehand by putting on

his

is

CHAPTER XVI HOME-MADE TRAPS

Trapping and trap-making is, and probably always If he lives in will be, a pastime which every boy enjoys. of

in

woods he

grow fond the wild creatures around him, and spend some time following their tracks and watching their ways and

the country or near the

habits.

If

he

vantages, but

sure to

may not have these as much interested in

a city boy he

is is

is

probably just

study of birds and animals as his country cousin

when

the opportunity presents

nearest

woods

to

the

is,

and

itself will slip off to

the

spend the day with his

and perhaps carry one or two back home life

ad-

little friends,

to share city

with him.

When

boys wish to trap animals for

while camping, or

when they have become

in a locality as to be a nuisance,

clean sport

them

;

it

so

numerous

can be considered

but as soon as they begin to trap and

just for the fun of

whatever from the

The

pets, or for eating

act,

it,

without deriving any good

they are guilty of a great cruelty.

various forms and schemes for

that have been devised,

kill

and which are 318

home-made

to

be found

traps in use

HOME-MADE TRAPS by boys

over the country, are countless, but there are

all

of course a

than others,

among

119

number of these which are more effective and some which have gained more favor Several years ago the author wrote

boys.

an

and has since been more than pleased to note the success boys have had in making and using With a few additions, the same schemes have them.

article

upon

traps,

been embodied

in this chapter,

several kinds of snares

and

and traps

it is

will

hoped that the

prove as satisfying

Catch.

m

{£ Upright.

Trigger.

Fig. 214.

to the majority of

— Stick

for the Figure-four Trap.

boy trappers.

They

are

make, require but the material ordinarily are effective for

and many

One

most

all

hand, and

at

of the smaller species of animals,

varieties of birds.

of

the oldest forms of traps, and one of which

every boy should understand the construction,

The Figure-four Trap. ample, and a great

simple to

its

many

—

It

is

principle will be found in the of the

more complicated

schemes

traps.

the preparation of three sticks, such as are Fig, 214, will be necessary.

is

about the simplest ex-

These

sticks

of

For this shown in

may be made

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

220 of

any length you wish, but

their proportion should be

The

about as shown in the drawings.

Fig. 215.

clearly

how

— The Figure-four.

the sticks should be notched, and

how one

end

of the trigger should be tapered for the bait.

215

will explain the

placed together

manner

in

of

Fig.

which these sticks are

The

the form of a figure-four.

in

show

illustrations

the trap

soap- or

consists

of

a

with

cracker-box

the cover hinged to

To

rest

it.

set the trap, place the

box upon the ground, cover down, and rest its upper Fig. 216.

— The Trap

Fig. 216.

Figure-four

set.

When

edge upon the top figure -four,

putting the figure-four together,

necessary to hold the sticks until the box

them, as the weight

is

required to hold

them

the

of

shown

as

is

set

it

in is

upon

in position.

HOME-MADE TRAPS For

squirrels

and

which

rabbits, for

331

this trap is very

leaf.

It

is

good,

cabbage

bait the trigger with a carrot, piece of apple, or

easy to see that the slightest nibble at the

bait will disarrange the sticks,

and cause the box

to

drop

over the game.

Back of box FlO. 2 1 8.

— Cross Section of Trap.

Fig. 217.

Figs. 217-219.

In Fig. 2 1 7

is

— A Box Trap.

shown an invention much-used

of the writer's,

a

simplified form of the

Box

Trap, having the principle of the figure-four in-

volved in ally

A

good

its

trigger.

for rabbits

This trap has proven exception-

and

squirrels.

small box about the size of a cracker- or soap-box

should be procured for the making of this trap.

one end, and,

after nailing

it

to the cover boards,

the latter to the end of the box, as trations (Figs. 217

and

218).

Remove

shown

With no hinges

the writer has found several nails driven

hinge

in the illusat hand,

through the

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

*22

ends of the cover boards sufficient to hold the covei while opening and closing

Bore two holes, one over

it.

the other, in the back of the box, and cut out the space

This makes a rectangular

between. 2i8)

When

c

slot (see

D in

Fig.

has been done, take a stick about

this

eighteen inches long, and, after tapering one end, nail

box cover, allowing the tapered end

to the

Then prepare

about nine inches.

it

to project

a trigger twelve inches

long, similar to Fig. 219.

The

trap

is

now ready to

the trigger into the slot at

catching the notch at the

same time

B on

one

to the

done by slipping

is

box

baiting

The weight until "

notch at

over the intruder.

side of the

box

at C,

A

(see

of the cover will

bunny," or some

Then

of his neighbors, attacks the inviting bait. its

it

at the top of the slot,

E into the

hold the trigger in place

trigger will loosen fall

which

D and, after

fitting stick

cross section, Fig 218).

now

set,

the

hold at B, and cause the cover to

A

few holes may be bored

in the

for ventilation, but these, as well as the

slot in the back,

should be protected with

tin,

to prevent

your captive from gnawing the openings large enough to escape.

The Dead Fall

is

a trap

commonly used

for skunks,

minks, muskrats, and coons, and probably cannot be excelled as a

means

ing animals.

Figure 220 shows a form of

and annoythis trap which

of killing off destructive

has been successfully employed. First

make

a pen out of stakes driven well into the

HOME-MADE TRAPS ground

form

in the

of a

wigwam.

*2 3

This

a guard for

is

the bait, and should be open on one side only, as

shown

in the illustration.

Place a short log in front of the opening, and at both of this drive a stake against the outer face of the

ends

shown in the drawing. Then procure a log of the same diameter, and about six feet long, and slip it between these stakes and the wigwam, so it falls upon the log, as

Fig. 220.

first log.

Cut a forked

— The

shown

in Fig. 221,

four inches long and flatten

To slip

set the

one end

upon the top

dead

fall,

Fall.

stick about twelve inches long

for the bait-stick, notching other, as

Dead

raise

one end and tapering the

and cut another it

at

stick twenty-

both ends.

an end of the upper log and

of the flattened stick

under

it,

of the stake outside of the log.

bait-stick, point

downward, inside

of the

resting

it

Place the

pen upon a chip

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

224 of

wood, and set the other end

of the flattened stick in

The

the notch (see illustration).

bait-stick should

be in such a position that the log above the bait

is

neck with

tackled,

and

strike its victim

sufficient force to kill

— This

is

will fall

is

now when

on the head or

For baiting

it.

use some food of which the animal

The Sieve Trap.

it

this trap,

particularly fond.

a most simple form of trap,

consisting of a sieve and a short stick with which to

Fig. 222.

prop up one side of

it.

— The

Coop Trap.

Fasten a long cord to the

stick,

and, after scattering grain beneath the sieve, carry the

end

of the cord to a place of

appearance of some birds.

concealment to await the

As soon

as these are attracted

by the grain, and begin feeding under the cord and they

will

sieve, pull the

be your prisoners.

The Coop Trap, shown

in

Fig. 222,

trapping the larger variety of birds.

can be used for

This

is

well

known

HOME-MADE TRAPS

"5

as an effective trap for wild turkeys.

number

up shown in

of sticks piled

tied together as

in

It

consists of a

the form of a pyramid and

Fig. 222.

Dig away enough

ground under one side of the coop to allow a bird enter, and then scatter some grain inside and a little

of the

to

in the entrance to attract the birds. It

may seem

strange to the reader, but

it is

neverthe-

less a fact, that, after entering the coop, a bird will try to Fig. 225.

Fig. 226.

Fig. 223.

Fig. 224.

A Rabbit out of the top, and

fly

death,

the

A

if

way

Snare and Twitch-up.

will

remain there

until starved to

not released, without attempting to escape by it

entered.

Rabbit Snare.

vantage after the

— This first

can be used to the best ad-

snowfall, for the footprints of a

rabbit are then easy to follow.

Bunny can be counted

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

246

upon keeping in the same path to and from his burrow, and a snare set in the centre of his path is pretty certain The snare should be to catch him before very long. made of a piece of soft wire about two feet long. Make a noose in one end about four inches in diameter, and fasten the other end to a branch projecting over the path (see Fig. 223).

This noose

commonly attached

is

to

what

is

known

as

A

Twitch-up,

shown in employed shown. there ter.

or a sapling bent

Fig.

One

224.

of

a

down and held as number of schemes

for holding the sapling in position

is

Select a spot a few feet from a sapling,

here

and

make an enclosure about twelve inches in diameThis should be made of twelve-inch sticks driven

into the

ground

six inches

on one

on both sides

an opening of about Drive a stake into the ground

in a circle, leaving side.

of the entrance,

outer face of each about six (see

Fig. 225).

one

in

and cut a notch in the inches above the ground

Find a twig somewhat similar

Fig. 226, and, after slipping

it

to the

into the notches

and baiting the prong, fasten the noose and sapling With the trap thus set, a slight pull on the bait to it. and the sapling springs up, jerking the animal into the air, and causing its death dislodges the crosspiece,

almost instantly.

Ranchers

of the

Western plains and mountains are

continually experiencing severe losses from the attacks

HOME-MADE TRAPS and coyotes upon themselves from the nightly of wolves

227

their live-stock,

and

to rid

raids of these animals re-

quires unceasing warfare against

them with

But

traps.

the wolf and coyote are very crafty fellows, and extremely

keen-scented, so that even trouble

in

capturing

professional

them, often

have

trappers

resorting

to

every

scheme they can devise without success. Steel traps are generally employed by the professional, as they are less cumbersome and quicker to set than the home-made affairs.

The

of the bare

traps are handled with gloves, as the touch

hands would be instantly detected by the

wary animals, and,

after

being placed in a

circle

around

the bait, are covered over with leaves and brush.

order not to leave

human

In

footprints behind him, the

them while mounted upon horseback. Not long ago, a trapper was hired by a rancher in New Mexico to capture some Loboe wolves which had been making serious raids upon the cattle, and one of his experiences while working there was somewhat laughable, though probably not seen in that way by all the parties concerned. Using a dead calf for bait, the trapper dragged it to a selected spot, and there surrounded it by eight or ten traps, which he chained fast to stakes, and carefully hid from view. Setting out to visit the traps as usual, on the following morning, he mounted a knoll from which he could see the location of the bait, and there plainly made out that a number of his traps had been sprung and were occupied. But upon reaching trapper often sets

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

228

the

his

spot,

surprise

and

disgust

when he found

a

Indian held

by the clutches

releasing Indian's

fast

dog

in

can be imagined

one trap and a bad-tempered

the captives, the

of three others.

After

trapper gathered from the

half-broken English that he had been riding

by on the previous night, and his dog had wandered from the trail and sprung a trap. He had then dis-

mounted

to release the animal,

but had not taken more

than half a dozen steps before his foot became clutched in a trap, the force in trying to

of

break his

which threw him forward, and, fall

with his outstretched hands,

each became securely clutched

no wolves made

in

traps.

Fortunately

and the couple were unharmed but the Indian no doubt spent a sleepless and uncomfortable night in the position he was ;

forced to occupy.

their appearance,

CHAPTER

XVII

TOY GUNS, TARGETS, AND BOWS AND ARROWS 'il'.W,.'

m

< '-•--

i.

i

war engines used in Europe before the introduction of gunpowder were most ingeniously contrived, and were wonderfully effective, considering that their projective force was obtained by means of

Some

of the old

springs and levers.

It

is

hard to find

many good

ex-

amples, as authorities have badly confused them, but the writer has been fortunate in securing drawings of what

he believes to be pure types of the most commonly used These are reproduced on page 230, believing that guns.

boy

the average

weapons

With

a

that little

will

be interested to see the kind of

were employed study, the

in

working

warfare centuries ago. of

these guns will be

clearly understood without further explanation than is

given upon the drawings.

The

what

catapult (Fig. 227)

and the trebuchet (Fig. 228) were used for storming The trebfortifications, and each hurled large stones. than the catamachine uchet was a much later invented pult, and, being built on a much larger scale, was more claimed that trebuchets were often built large enough to hurl carcasses of horses into an enemy's

powerful.

It is

329

•s

o .0 en tn

o

U <

1 8 •s

?

t>

a

go

PS 2«

o ro N

a

g

S

"

-a" tf>

E e

G

d a

O ^j

"§

(J

Q,

<

|2



SloU ***

Fig. 246.

Figs. 244-246.

makes another

gag

— Schemes

excellent head.

;

for

^±juL

Arrow-heads.

The metal

points should

be used only for target practice, and then with proper care, to prevent injury to yourself or

Feathering

is

companions.

the next operation.

Turkey or goose

feathers are generally used, but the former

the better of the two.

is

considered

Strip off the broader side of the

vane of three feathers, and glue them to the shaft one and one-quarter inches from the notch, spacing them equidistant from one another. One feather should be placed at right angles

cock-feather,

bow when

to

the notch.

This

is

known

as the

and should always point away from the

the arrow

is

shot.

TOY GUNS, TARGETS, AND BOWS AND ARROWS

A

Quiver of

some

sort should be provided, large

dozen or more arrows, and

to carry a

this

239

enough

should be

three inches shorter than the arrows, so that their ends

above the

will project

top.

It

may

be made out of any thick cloth, as

shown piece

in

of

Fig.

A

247.

cardboard

is

circular

placed in

the bottom to which the cloth

is

sewed, and a piece of heavy wire,

bent into a to

circle, fits in the

The

keep the bag open.

top

quiver

should hang on your right side,

Fig. 247-

-A Quiver.

being suspended by means of a cloth strap long enough to pass over the left shoulder.

To Shoot with the bow, take the position shown in

upon the ground, and the Hold the handle of the bow in the left hand and place an arrow on the left side of the bow, slipping the bow-string into the notch and letting the head of the arrow rest upon your left hand. Fig. 248, with both feet

flat

heels in line with the target.

Catch the bow-string with the right hand, so that the

the

first

and second

end

first

of the

fingers,

three fingers of your

arrow comes between

and draw the string

the head of the arrow rests upon the

left

hand

;

until

then

go of the arrow. By always taking the same hold upon your bow and arrow, you will soon be able to know just where the arrow is going to aim quickly and

strike.

let

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

240

The boy who arrow-heads

has

has had the hobby of collecting Indian

no doubt often wondered how they

were made, and also how the bows and arrows were

The ways

prepared.

things

is

which

all

uncivilized people do

and especially when

rememthey had but raw materials with which to work and only such tools as

interesting,

bered that

in

they could

it

is

make out

The Indian's

of stone.

Bow was made

of different woods, and, it

though

varied in shape and

was

generally

inches

in

about

length,

size,

forty

so

as

to

be conveniently carried and

The

handled on horseback.

bow-string consisted generally of a deer

sinew or a strand

of deer-skin rolled or twisted,

and

this

tightly

— Correct Position Shooting.

ally

made

for

notch

of

the

bow

to

a

on the opposite end.

the greater part of his weapons, there was

who was

skilled

in

the

arrow-making, and, as the preparation required

more care than the bow, he was work. The arrow-shaft was made

far

very

Now, while an Indian gener-

always a warrior in the tribe art of

strung

from a notch cut on

one end Fig. 248.

was

intrusted with this of various

woods,

TOY GUNS, TARGETS, AND BOWS AND ARROWS being

reeds

largely

often

but

required

used,

upon that

as

they

were

straight

and

Their lengths depended

cutting.

little

241

of the bows.

For the feathering

turkey feathers

of the shafts, wild

were considered best and used

when they could be

had,

and these were attached to the shaft with deer sinews.

A

great

heads,

variety of

among which

materials were

flint,

used for arrow-

obsidian, horn

of deer, claws

and the spurs of wild turkey-cocks may be

of eagles,

Fig. 249.

Many

mentioned. ally in the

— Some Specimens of Indian Arrow-heads. of these are being picked

mountains and on the

up annu-

which were once

plains,

the battle-fields and hunting-grounds of the redmen, and in excavating for building purposes they are frequently

A

found.

few specimens

variety of the shapes Fig. 249. left

to

work.

the

The old

and

of

stone

sizes

used

heads showing a will

be found in

preparation of these heads was usually

men who were

unfit

for

any other

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

242

In making the

flint

made

head, the Indian

a loop in

a piece of buckskin which had been thoroughly wet in cold water, and then taking a piece of

and with the wanted

strip of

until the

heated

it,

what was not the correct shape and size.

buckskin chipped

head was of

flint,

off

As hornstone is more brittle than quartz, the heads made from that material were broken and shaped by striking them against the latter The stone heads were attached to the shaft by means of sinews, generally from deer.

For hunting small

made wooden after

shaping

birds, the

arrow-heads, hardening the it.

Indians often

wood by

fire

CHAPTER

XVIII

AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM

With

a

little

work, and a small

chiefly for two-by-fours,

in this chapter, a boy, or club of boys,

set

up

all

sium.

is

can construct and

the necessary apparatus for an outdoor

It is

too small to

money

outlay of

and such boards as are specified

true a great

many

accommodate

all

gymna-

city back-yards are

of the apparatus

;

much

but there

generally a vacant lot in the neighborhood which you

you boys who spend the summer months in

Those

can obtain permission to use. are fortunate

the

a complete

one

A

enough

country have

to

splendid

gym and

opportunities

for

making

should not miss the chance to

fit

up.

Horizontal Bar.

— A well-made horizontal bar requires

a firm standard which will not sway

This

is

object.

when swung upon.

best attained by fastening at least one upright to

the side of the barn, the fence, or

free

of

It is

some other stationary

also very important to secure a strcng bar

from knots and cracks.

used by boys, but at great

Curtain-poles are frequently risk, as

there

may be

a dan-

gerous knot lurking beneath the highly polished surface 343

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

244

that will

break at a

critical

moment and

cause them

serious injuries.

A

bought from

four-foot hickory or ash bar can be

a

dealer in sporting goods for about a dollar and a half, but it

less

much

cost

will

have a bar

to

turned to the right

shape and size at a planing

The

mill.

diameter of the pole should be an l$" Diameter,

and

r2' Square

one-half,

inch

and the

ends should be two FlG^50 Bar

square

inches

(see

Fig. 250).

\

For the uprights procure two two-by-

\k

sixes nine feet long.

Mark

off

a square

equal in size to the

end

of the bar, six

inches from one end of each,

Fig. 251.

trim

the

— The Horizontal Bar.

holes square and large

and cut out

wood with an auger. With a chisel enough for the bar the

to slip through.

Sink the lower ends

of

the uprights twelve

inches

AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM into the ground,

ever

may

it

A

against the stationary object, what-

B

and

be,

directly in front, at a distance

equal to the length of the bar.

and brace the base

surface,

make

to

it

«45

of

A

Spike

B with

solid (see Fig. 251).

The

to the abutting

two two-by-fours

tops of the braces

should be mitred against B, and the bottoms spiked to

shown

stakes driven into the ground, as

To make

at C.

possible to adjust the bar to different heights, holes

it

may be

cut in the uprights every foot or

so,

in

which

case be careful to locate the holes exactly opposite

one

another. It is

tal

well to have an old mattress beneath the horizon-

bar as a guard against injury in case of a

makes a splendid Tumbling Mat for practising

fall.

This

also

wrestling.

potato

a

If

sacks

rolls,

mattress cannot

stuffed

with

hand-springs, and

be obtained,

a few

shavings or excelsior will

answer the purpose.

scheme for making a pair of To acquire the Parallel Bars is shown in Fig. 252. bracing that would in necessary firmness without putting

The most

satisfactory

interfere with the performer, the base of the apparatus

should be set underground, as indicated by the dotted lines in the illustration.

In height the parallel bars should be about four feet six inches, in length

seven feet six inches, and in width

twenty inches between the bars. rights

A, B,

C,

and

D

This makes the up-

six feet long, allowing eighteen

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

246

inches to project into the ground.

Prepare one end of

each as shown in Fig. 253, notching in

and

it

Fig. 252.

When

this

has

been

twenty-eight inches long.

B on

for the bar to

fit

cutting off the corner.

done,

Then

— The Parallel Bars.

cut four two-by-fours lay the uprights

A

and

the ground twenty inches apart, and spike two of

AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM the two-by-fours to

Uprights

C and

them

at

D should

G

/ and

J

these frames have been made,

their bases six feet apart,

(see Fig. 254).

be similarly fastened together

with the other two-by-fours at

When

H

and

*47

(see Fig. 252).

set

them upon

and spike the two-by-fours Fig.

156.

K

— Section

of Bar.

J\

A,

Fig.

253.

Ends

— Dress

of Uprights

like this.

20"

tl Fig. 254. Figs. 253-256.

and

L

Fig. 255.

— Details of

— Corner Bracing.

Parallel Bars.

to the uprights in the places

shown

in Fig. 252,

with braces set between them and the pieces at

N

M, The

y

O,

P (see

Figs. 252

and

H and

/,

255).

bars should be seven feet six inches in length,

and cut out

of

Georgia pine two-by-fours.

Figures 252

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

248

and 256 show how these should be dressed, the tops rounded to fit the hands and the ends curved. First roughly shape them with the draw-knife, then smooth

up with the plane, and

finally scrape

with sand-paper until perfectly

and rub them down

When

smooth.

the bars

them into the notches cut in the uprights, and spike them in place. With the constructive work done, it is only necessary

have been prepared,

to

slip

bury the base to complete the apparatus.

Excavate

a trench eighteen inches deep, and level off the bottom.

Then lower

the framework and, after determining that

the bars are level,

fill

across the top of

G

Boards

and

/,

should be made thirty

it

well against

E and F should be laid

and spiked

in place.

by Fig. 257, inches square and suspended

The PuncMng-bag Platform, from the shed or a

packing

in the earth,

the uprights and braces.

illustrated

wall.

Nail a thirty-inch piece of two-by-four to the wall, two feet

above the height

placed, as at

A

at

which the platform

in the drawing,

and

level with the top of the platform, as

nail

is

to be

another on a

shown

at

B.

Fasten the platform boards together with battens, using nails long enough to clinch on top of the upper face,

and

mitring

nail the

the

two boards

edges as in

C

and

the figure.

D

to the

Then

edges, lift

the

platform to the desired height, and fasten the ends of

C and

D

to the ends of

A.

Also

nail the

the platform to the under side of B.

bottom

of

AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM

A

shown in Fig. 258 can be bought cents, and one of these should be

swivel such as forty or

for

249

fifty

screwed to the bottom

of the platform,

from which

to

suspend the punching-bag.

Fig. 257.

A

Pair of

— A Punching-bag Platform.

Jump Standards

are

fours about eight feet long.

on

all sides,

and mark

measure

off the

off

two

remaining

made out

of

two two-by-

After planing them smooth feet

from one end of each,

six feet in inches, as

shown

in Fig. 259.

After squaring these divisions across the poles with

your try-square, bore holes three-eighths of an inch in diameter through the poles at each division. Then, with a small brush and black paint, mark off each foot with a band extending around the pole, each half foot with a

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

25°

narrower band, and each inch with a short in the drawings.

When

line, as

Letter the foot divisions

i,

shown

2, 3, 4, etc.

both standards have been finished, bury them

in

the ground to a depth of thirteen inches, eight feet apart.

Cut two wooden pegs similar

^

to Fig. 261 to

fit

the holes,

Rope

height 2£i

Fig. 262.

Fig. 261

Fig. 259.

— The Jump Standards completed.

Figs. 259-262.

— Details of Jump Standards.

and procure a nine-foot pine or hickory pole one inch thick for a cross-bar (see Fig. 260).

When

placed upon the pegs, the distance from

its

the bar

is

top to the

ground should correspond with the figure on the

up«

AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM right.

If

the error

With

151

not the same, raise or lower the uprights until is

corrected.

a pair of these standards there

is

no danger

injury by tripping over the bar, as the latter will

There

with the slightest knock. using a

stick,

upon.

Because of

to

however,

each end, as shown in Fig. 262 of the rope are

way

it

that

will

the pegs

often substituted.

is

hung over

off

slip

in

jumped

if

a rope with a weight attached

this,

The ends

off

fall

one disadvantage

is

being easily broken

it

of

the pegs in such a

when

The

struck.

weights should be just heavy enough to prevent the rope

from sagging

A

in the centre.

made of defects. The

Vaulting Pole should be

from knots and other

made

a strong wood, free regulation pole

is

from eight

to

of selected spruce, its length varying

fourteen

feet.

plane off

all

you make your own

If

splinters

and

pole, be careful to

irregularities,

and smooth, and point one end so

it

making

it

round

will stick into the

ground and prevent slipping. Although seldom used in an outdoor gymnasium,

A

Spring-board

is

broad jumps, and

excellent for practising the high and is

a great deal of fun

scheme

a piece of apparatus with which

may

be had.

for a spring-board that

is

Figure 263 shows a easy to make.

cut three pieces of two-by-four two feet long,

on the ground apart,

parallel

to

each other eighteen inches

and construct a platform four

wide on top of them.

First

hy them

feet long

by two

feet

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

*5*

Cut another two-by-four two feet shown in Fig. 264, making it two inches and an inch and a quarter on the

Fig. 263.

one end

long, taper

it

a?

thick on one edge

other,

and

nail

it

to

— A Spring-board.

of the platform.

Secure a log two feet long

cedar fence post will do very nicely), and fasten

it

(a

across

the centre of the platform parallel to the two-by-fours.

The upper should be erably ash. six inches Fig. 264.

portion of the spring-board

made

of elastic

Construct a second platform longer than the

first,

leaving

about one-half inch between the boards,

and battening the pieces together 263).

boards, pref-

at

A

and

B

(see Fig.

Nail the battens securely in place, using nails of

sufficient length to allow

of the battens.

The

from springing apart.

clinching on the under face

clinching will prevent the boards

AN OUTDOOR GYMNASIUM

*53

This platform should be fastened to the

with the

first,

end which has not been battened secured to the twoThe best method of fastening the ends of by-four at C. these boards

is

with bolts long enough to extend through

the two platforms and project an inch or

more below the

bottom two-by-four

Large washers

(see

illustration).

should be placed under the heads of the bolts to prevent the latter from cutting through the boards.

The upper

platform should not be nailed to the log,

but merely held to

by straps passed diagonally around the outside boards and log, as shown in the illustration. it

Set the spring-board upon the spot you wish to use it,

and bank up the earth behind

is

made from any

If

until a gradual slope

the ground to the top.

difficulty is

board in place, into the

it

it

experienced in keeping the spring-

may be overcome by

ground around the sides

After setting up your

driving stakes

of the lower platform.

gymnasium

apparatus,

oil

the

bars of the horizontal bar and parallel bars with boiled linseed-oil,

in

and paint

all

the rest of the

wood

to

keep

it

good condition. Hurdles should

be lightly constructed, so as to be

easily

knocked over should a hurdler

They

are

for the

made similar making of which

the field

is

upon them.

are given in Chapter

height will depend upon the If

trip

to carpenter horses, directions

skill of

I.

Their

the hurdler.

large enough,

A Running Track can be made around

it,

by

levelling

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

*54

ground, removing

off the

path,

its

all

stones and irregularities in

and banking up the corners

to enable the run-

ner to turn the curves readily.

For Short Sprints the most ing

upon

is

all

common method

fours, as illustrated in Fig. 265.

of start-

Make

a

Fig. 265.

depression in the ground for the toe of the rear foot to press against in starting off.

For Broad Jumping, a block of wood two feet long should be sunk into the ground, as a mark from which to leap. It is

An

a good plan to organize

Athletic Club

with which to raise for apparatus,

among the boys of the neighborhood money necessary to buy the material

and

Athletic Meets

with other clubs.

may be

held

among

the

members and

CHAPTER XIX A BACK-YARD CIRCUS

Shortly after the founding of Rome, a large building was built within which to hold commemorations of Roman victories and anniversaries, with chariot races, and bull-fights, gladiatorial contests, and athletic games " circus," this from this building, which was called the ;

class of entertainment derived its

name.

To keep up with the times, the circus has had to profit by every scientific discovery, adding continuously to its line of attractions, until

to

now

it

is

necessary for a

produce a new, sensational, and

each season

in order to

keep

and compete with others

hair-raising

show feat

in the favor of the public

in the field.

The

tight-rope

walkers, bare-back riders, and trapeze performers were

not long ago the main attractions of a circus, but these

do not seem nearly as remarkable now when compared with such daring feats as looping-the-loop or loopingthe-gap on a bicycle, riding down an incline on a single wheel, or diving from the peak of the tent into a small

tank not more than six feet square, to be seen at the present day. •55_

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

256

When

came

a circus

to town,

it

seemed but natural

boys of our neighborhood to club together and

for the

arrange a performance on a small scale, but as nearly

A

like that of the professionals as possible.

back-yard

was transformed into training quarters, and here we worked hard for several days before the show, imitating

we could

as best

the stunts of

the

performers.

circus

Because one fellow could walk on his hands, and turn hand-springs, besides being the owner of a pair of tights,

he naturally became the chief attraction pair of riding boots, so he

made

cloth costume, in this

week

or

;

a third

him out a cheese-

and was chosen to take the part

way each boy helped along

by contributing

The most

another had a

was chosen ring master

a bargain with his sister to cut

— and

;

of a clown,

the performance

his best efforts.

successful

more was spent

and getting things

shows were those in rehearsing the

in

which a

performance

Tickets and programmes

in shape.

were neatly printed by one of the members who owned a press, and the former were distributed

and

their friends to

The is

first

among

the boys

sell.

thing to do in preparing a yard for a circus,

to

Mark

out a Ring in the centre, with a diameter as large

as the yard will permit.

the

same

ter

XV,

This

principle as that

circle

shown

may

in

be drawn on

Fig. 201, Chap-

using a rope at either end of which a stake

has been attached.

After describing the

circle,

secure

A BACK-YARD CIRCUS

*$1

several six-inch boards sufficiently limber to enable

you bend them around the circle, and fasten them in place by means of stakes driven into the ground outside of the to

The

boards.

enclosed space should then be

several inches of shavings,

a carpenter

you

if

have

filled in

with

which you can procure from not enough in your own

workshop. Good Circus Seats can be

made out

boxes eighteen

of

or twenty inches high, with planks laid across their tops.

To

give the back-yard a real circus

always thought

it

also a tent over

together

we could

A

we

necessary not only to have a ring but

it

and the grandstand, so we gathered

the old awnings, tents, and carriage covers

all

scrape up, and fastening these together with

pins or heavy thread

Large Tent.

ground

appearance,

—A

made ten-foot pole

in the centre of the ring,

from the top of

was fastened

was sunk into the and ropes were run

this to the fence, after

to the ropes

which the tent

and propped with poles wher-

ever any sagging occurred. Bright colored cheese-cloth was used In decorating the Tent, and for evening performances

Japanese lanterns were hung about the yard.

A

Ticket

the yard.

Office

should

be built at the entrance to

This can be made out of two boxes, one

on top of the other, as shown in Fig. 266.

opening

fifteen inches

dow, round the

top,

set

Cut an

square in the front for a win-

and make a guard

of

wooden

strips

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

258 to

fit it.

neath

it

Cut a slot in the counter, fastening a box bein which to drop tickets, and for a cash drawer

Fig. 266.

— Ticket Office and Turnstile.

fasten strips to the under side of the counter, as in Fig. 266, so that a cigar-box will slide

shown

upon them.

A BACK-YARD CIRCUS

To

the top of the ticket office fasten a board cut the

shape shown in the "

Tickets

"

upon

illustration,

These

it.

and print the word

may

letters

be illuminated

an evening performance by boring holes through

for

them and placing candles behind

A

made

Turnstile should be

so that

office,

fee

259

are obliged

all

and pass through the

tent (see Fig. 266

The

stile

is

(see Fig. 266).

front

in

of

the

ticket

pay their admission

to

turnstile before entering the

also illustration opposite page 268).

;

made with two

sticks about

forty inches

long fastened together at their centres, as shown in Fig.

This

267.

known

joint,

as

Halving, consists in cutting

and the width portions

fit

away

one-half the thickness

each piece so that the remaining

of

together

flush.

After nailing the pieces

together, bore a quarter-inch hole through

and screw

the centre,

the crosspiece at this point to the

top of a

piece of two-by-four driven into the ground in front of

the ticket

office.

The

with the screw as an

The

crosspiece should

arrangement similar to that shown

on a

Cut a

have a lock, and an in Fig.

slot in the front

illustration),

such as A, B, C, and

B and C to

D

the ends of

the other ends of

B and

266 answers

of the lower

level with the top of the stile for

through (see

revolve

axis.

turnstile should, of course,

the purpose.

now

the arms

box

to

run

and then prepare four blocks, Screw one end of in Fig. 268.

A

and fasten block

C, after

which

nail

D

between

block

A

to

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

z6o

shown

the under side of the counter in the position

Prepare a lever such as

Fig. 266.

is

shown

cut a mortise in the top of the counter for (see Fig. 266),

and pivot

it

in

in Fig. 269, it

to

fit

in

to the side of the upper box.

Place a screw-eye in the end of the lever and another in

D

y

and connect the two with a piece

Figure

of cord.

266 shows an arm of the turnstile held by the

r\

Nait&lockA&Vnder Side of Counter

which

is

ing back the lever. railing should

OT

lock,

released by push-

front

of

A

be built in

the turnstile to

block the passage on that side.

The Side Show should be placed in one corner of the yard. Fig. 268.

— Lock.

Fig. 269.

— Lever.

mesh fastened over the place for a door.

in

front,

The

cages

can be made out of boxes with either slats or wire-

and the top or side hinged

The animal

performers of the

circus should occupy these cages before the

show com-

make the menagerie as large as possible, few cages may be filled with pets borrowed for the occa-

mences, and to a

sion.

Several closed boxes should be placed alongside of

the cages, and lettered " Lion,"

some such

"

Tiger," or the

names

of

ferocious animals as these, and the public

should be informed that for their safety the management

thought

it

best not to place these specimens on exhibition.

A BACK-YARD CIRCUS

»6i

Animated Animals generally have a place in every cus,

and help out the clowns

ance.

The animals

in their

end

are not difficult for

cir-

of the perform-

handy boys

to

make, so several should be manufactured for your show. If you can get your mother or sister to do the necessary sewing,

it

would be well

The Elephant animals, and

is

is

one

to secure her help.

of the oldest

same time one

at the

forms of animated of the

most popular.

Fig. 271.

Figs.

Four or

— The Pattern. —L y 270-271. — The Elephant.

Fig. 270.

/a[

five

yards of gray cambric should be purchased

for its covering.

The in

cloth should be cut out like the pattern

Fig.

270, the correct measurements

shown

being secured

from two boys who have taken the position shown in Fig. 271.

Fold the cloth along the centre and then sew

the dotted lines

AA

and

BB

together.

Paper cornu-

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

262

form the tusks, and the ears are made

copiae

of gray

cambric cut the shape shown in Fig. 271, and lined with heavy wrapping-paper to make them stiff.

Two

These must rear boy 271. front boy's back and wags the tail with the other, while the front boy runs one hand through the elephant's trunk and keeps it in motion. Fasten potato sacks on to your legs to make them as boys are required for the elephant.

shown places one hand upon the bend forward, as

in

The

Fig.

large as possible.

The

Giraffe is

one of the rarest of animals, and very

few are to be found in captivity. claims there

is

So

of a herd in their possession.

which

is

not

In

fact,

a large circus

only one specimen in this country, outside

difficult to

do,

you

if

you make a

will

giraffe,

have a feature in

your show that none but the very largest combines can afford.

The

of Fig. 272

animal's head should be

drawn the shape

on a board, and then cut out with the aid

a saw and draw-knife.

The

jaw, ears,

of

and horns should

be cut out separately, the shape of Figs. 273, 274, and Bore two holes in the head at A, slanting them 275.

toward one another, and the horns. at

fit

in

The jaw should be

B on one side

wise fastened at

of the head,

C

them the pegs cut

for

pivoted with a small nail

and an ear should be

on each side

of the head.

like-

When

these portions of the giraffe's anatomy have been put in place, stretch a rubber

band from a tack driven

in the

top of the jaw to another tack driven into the neck (see

A BACK-YARD CIRCUS

S63

and attach another rubber band similarly to These rubber bands will act as springs, the ears.

Fig. 272),

each of

causing the ears to

when

the giraffe

wag and

moves

the jaw to open and close

his head.

Fig. 273. Fig. 276. Figs. 272-276.

— Details of

Giraffe.

Paint the head, making the features as nearly like those of a giraffe as possible, and,

mount

when

the paint

the head on the end of a six-foot pole.

is

dry,

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

264

The

covering for the body

brown

of tan cloth with

in

made out of a large piece marked upon it, as shown

is

spots

Fig. 276.

It is

not necessary

to give a pattern for this, as the

shows how it should fit over the two boys who form the body, and hang from illustration clearly

the headpiece. Fig. 277.

A

Giraffe's Tail.

be

stuffed

out

The neck should with

excelsior.

short and a long stick should be nailed together, as

shown of

— The

in Fig. 277,

short

the

and cloth should be sewed

tail.

the

with

excelsior

end

stick

for the animal's

Stuff

to the

tail

and fasten

unravelled

rope

to

the end, as

shown

in

the drawings.

The

long stick should be held by the boy

who

forms the rear of the animal, so

means

of

it

that

by

he can

manipulate the (see Fig. 276).

tail

As

Fig. 278.

shown by the dotted

— The Wild Man and the Wild Horse.

lines in Fig. 276, the

front portion of the animal holds the

supporting the animal's head.

end

boy

in the

of the pole

A BACK-YARD CIRCUS

An

animated animal very often brought into a

cus ring

is

cir-

the two-legged

Wild Horse, owned by the Wild breed of horse

is

shown

Fig. 279.

in

Man

This framework is

of Borneo.

Fig. 278.

A

— Framework of Wild Horse.

necessary for the body, and this

Cut two four-foot them two feet apart,

in Fig. 279.

fasten

265

is

best

made

as

shown

strips for the side-pieces,

with a barrel-hoop at either Fig. 282.

end and arch barrel-hoops over the back, as shown in the drawing. (Fig. 280)

is

The head made in the

same manner

as that of

the giraffe, the jaws and

Fig. 281.

Fig. 280.

the ears (Figs. 281 and 282) being cut out separately and

pivoted in place similarly to those of the giraffe.

Paint

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

266

the face, marking the eyes and nostrils, and

and

unravelled rope.

tail of

mount

it

upon a short

stick

piece set in the framework, as it

with an upright fastened

Having

and fasten

shown to

make

mane

a

finished the head, this to a cross-

bracing

in Fig. 279,

another crosspiece.

In

fastening the various pieces of the frame-

work

together,

it

is

well not only to use

long enough nails to but

clinch,

also

to

bind each joint with

make

wire or cord to it stiff.

Purchase brown or cambric

black

covering

work. the

Tack wooden

leaving Fig. 283.

— "Jocko."

in

for

frame-

the

it

strips,

opening

an

the top

for

rider to stand in,

allow

it

to

hang

to the

ground as shown

to

the

and

in the illustra-

tion, so as to conceal the feet of the rider.

The Wild Man should wear an old slouch hat and a hunting jacket, and should have a pair of fastened to him, so that while his

own

false

legs

are inside the

framework, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 278,

A BACK-YARD CIRCUS they appear to be astride. off the legs of

To make

267

the false legs, cut

an old pair of long trousers, stuff them

with excelsior, and fasten a pair of shoes to the ends.

These legs should be fastened The framework should be held

to the hips of the rider.

by means

to the rider

of

strips, as shown in Fig. 279. These should be long enough to cross the boy's shoulders in the same way as a pair of suspenders. A Monkey's Make-up is shown in Fig. 283. The boy who is most apt at making a monkey of himself

ropes tied to the side

should be selected to take the part of In the

this animal.

first

quires a red suit, which

place he

re-

may be made

quickly by sewing red cloth over an old coat and a pair of trousers. legs with a pair of

Cover the

tan stockings, and

slip the feet into a pair of large gloves.

The

face

and

for this purpose

and hands should be colored,

buy some brown

Fig. 284.

In rubbing the paint over

grease paint.

— Jocko's

Hat.

the face, leave a circle of white around the eyes and

mouth, and

mouth cap of

to give

should the

make be

it

a brown

mark each

a broadened effect.

made

brown paint

of

as

cloth

as

possible,

Figure 284 shows the monkey's

side

A

to

around the monkey's chin by means

the shade

hide

of

the

consisting

tomato-can covered with red cloth, which

an

the

tight-fitting

nearly

hat,

of

is

hair.

of

a

fastened

elastic

cord

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

268

A a

piece of rope can be fastened beneath the coat for tail.

The Ring Master should wear a high

up

and a pair

collar,

silk hat, a stand-

boots, besides being

of

supplied

with a long whip.

The Clown's Suit

is

best

made out

and yellow

of red

cheese-cloth, this material being about as cheap as can

bought

be

The

purpose.

the

for

suit consists

of a pair of

baggy trousers or bloomers, with elastic around the waist and ankles, a loose coat with large

a

collar,

hat.

Make

buttons,

and a

a

skullcap,

the buttons

out of red cheese-cloth and stuff

them with

The

cotton.

may be made

coat

red and the

of

trousers of yellow cheese-cloth,

or both

may

be made of yellow

with red polka dots sewed on to them, as

shown

tration of his Fig. 285.

— The

Clown's

Make-up. it stiff,

a to

ruffle.

The

collar

in the illus-

costume (Fig. is

made

cloth, lined with

of

skull cap should be

hide the hair.

and cover

it

Make

made out

to

form

of white cloth

a peaked hat of

with red cheese-cloth.

white

paper to make

and should be pleated around the neck

A

285).

stiff

paper,

A BACK-YARD CIRCUS

When making

269

up for a performance, the clown should

powder his face, neck, and hands with magnesia, and draw expression marks upon his face with burnt cork, as shown in Fig. 285. The Attendants for the elephant and giraffe should wear old bath robes or gowns, and have turbans made by twisting a piece of red cheese-cloth about the head.

By

any circus

visiting

things are managed,

and

watching how

closely

ought to be a simple matter to

it

get enough Ideas for a Performance that can be carried out with the

The

animals and performers described in this chapter.

clown should,

which he can get out his best

make

A

have his usual supply of jokes,

of course,

of the

comic papers, and should do

annoy the other performers.

to

He

should

himself

two

Slapper, consisting of

between laughter

at

This

one end.

among

sticks with a block slipped

will

produce a great deal of

the audience, for

when

the slapper

is

struck against a performer the ends of the sticks strike together,

making

a loud, cracking noise,

and one would

hardly believe that a stinging blow had not been dealt.

The clown attempts but always

A

fails

startling

gramme

will

Looping the

the tricks of the other performers,

or gets feat

to

them very badly mixed. be announced upon the

pro-

— This

per-

be

Hoop on a

Giraffe.

formed by the elephant, who

is

stunt

is

given a number of barrel-

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

270

hoops, which he tosses by means of his trunk over the giraffe's outstretched

neck.

The elephant and

should always be entered in a race, which exciting,

inasmuch

as

your specimens

will

will

be

giraffe

prove evenly

matched.

The monkey may do almost anything and be amusing. Swinging upon a turning-pole, teasing the animals, boxing with the clown, and climbing a rope, are all his specialties.

A

Then he should have

Chariot within which to ride around the ring.

This

can be made out of a soap-box, as shown in Fig. 286.

FlG. 286.

Cut down the

sides, as

to the bottom,

shafts

sizes

out of

gilt

in the

Chariot.

When red,

two upon a couple of this has been done

illustration, attach

and mount

wagon wheels. paint the wood a bright small

— Jocko's

it

and cut

stars of different

paper and glue them

all

over the

outside.

The

ring master acts as

manager

of the performance,

A BACK-YARD CIRCUS and should use to force If

them

his

271

whip unsparingly upon the animals,

into obedience.

a boy can turn upon a turning-pole, an apparatus

such as

described in Chapter

is

outside of the

acrobats,

and

neighborhood

be set up

ring.

performances,

Before

XVIII may

showmen in circus

the

— should attire.

circus

entire

parade

We

always

— animals, about

made

the the

Parades a feature of our circuses, and found them not only great sport, but the best kind of advertising.

The

animal cages should be placed upon wagons decorated with

flags.

Head

the

procession

drummers, and have two boys march

with a couple of in the rear carry-

ing signs advertising the show.

The Advertising Signs may be painted with bluing

upon large pieces of manila wrapping-paper, and should be tacked on wooden stretchers mounted on poles.

CHAPTER XX SUGGESTIONS FOR FOURTH OF JULY

As most boys

probably know, the

first

Fourth

of July

celebration took place in 1775, following the signing of

the Declaration of Independence in Independence Hall,

When

Philadelphia. of the

the old bell rang forth the result

meeting of the Continental Congress, citizens

gathered in the streets and displayed their great joy

by shouting, beating drums, and firing muskets. The news spread very rapidly, and great rejoicing reigned It soon became a custom to celebrate everywhere. annually this famous

event,

and

boy's privilege to have a rollicking day,

making

When

as

much

should be every

good time upon

this

noise as he pleases.

the average boy has bought a few sky-rockets,

Roman-candles, and

he generally

hand

cannon-crackers, for the

finds, to his sorrow, that

pocket money. try his

it

at

It is

then that he

is

Fourth,

he has run out of

very apt to want to

There are many how amateurs may manu-

making pyrotechnics.

publications which describe

facture Roman-candles, sky-rockets, nigger-chasers, and

such pieces, but

it is

hoped that no boy 272

will

venture to

SUGGESTIONS FOR FOURTH OF JULY carry out any such experiments,

for,

of care, unforeseen accidents will occur

At

273

with the greatest

which may

result

same time, there is no economy in it, for the apparatus and materials will generally cost him more than to buy the fireworks ready made. This is also true of colored lights, for which there are many simple formulae, but none of which can be made up as cheaply as the powders can be bought him.

disastrously to

the

already prepared.

There

however,

are,

the Fourth

that

many

things a boy can

make

such as

are perfectly harmless,

fire-

cracker cannons and home-made set-pieces, besides

schemes

ferent

can carry out.

pages

will

for firing crackers

The

for

dif-

and fireworks that he

suggestions offered on the following

be found interesting, and they will probably

suggest other ideas to the inventive boy.

The

store toy

cannon and

dangerous for boys to laws forbidding their of the larger cities,

use,

cap-pistol are exceedingly

and were

sale, as in

all

cities

to pass

the case of a great

many

thousands of young lives would be

saved from the terrible accidents resulting annually from celebrating with these toys.

In Fig. 287

A

is

shown which a boy can have a the same time with no danger

Fire-cracker Cannon with

great deal of fun and at of injury.

Fig. 288,

Cut the two gun-stocks similar and the two wheels four inches

(Fig. 289), after

which bore holes

in

shape to

in

diameter

in the gun-stocks at

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

274

A, and

in the centres of the wheels,

run the

axle.

through which to

Procure a baking-powder can and make

a couple of holes in the sides for the axle to run through

and one in the bottom of the can the size of a fire-cracker fuse. Cut a conical piece of wood about two

(Fig. 290),

Fig. 288.

Fig. 287. Figs. 287-291

inches long and nail

shown

Fire-cracker Cannon.

to the outside of the

can cover as

in Fig. 291.

When place

it

A

the various pieces have

them together

as

shown

been thus prepared,

in Fig.

piece of heavy wire through the holes

and bend over the ends

287,

and

made

slip

a

in them,

of the wire to hold the wheels

in place.

To

fire

the Cannon, place a cracker in the can with the

fuse projecting through the hole in the bottom, and

fit

SUGGESTIONS FOR FOURTH OF JULY

Then

the cover over the can.

hurl

it

considerable

a

The

light the fuse.

which

exploding cracker will force off the cover, the projectile, and

275

distance

is

in

the direction the cannon has been pointed.

A

Toy Mortar may be made

similarly, with the excep-

tion of the carriage or mortar-bed.

show the

details for this,

which

is

Figures 292 and 293 different from a regu*

Wooden Con*

HoleforAxie.

Leather hinges^ Cover-^

mSmm— Fig. 293.

Mortar-bed.

Fig. 292.

Figs. 292-293.

lar mortar,

box.

— A Fire-cracker Mortar.

one end being enclosed

Make

«i^ Section through

a cover for the

for

an ammunition

ammunition box

sparks from igniting the packages pieces of leather for hinges.

of

As shown

to prevent

crackers,

using

in the section

293), the mortar-bed is mounted upon a small board, being held in place by means of a short

drawing (Fig. screw, which

around

in

makes

it

possible

to

swing the mortar

any position desired.

These cannons and mortars

will furnish sport

not only

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

276

Fourth, but for any other day of the year, as

for the

they can be used by a crowd of boys in

Mimic divide

The boys should

Battles, with paper soldiers.

into

armies,

and construct

their

fortifications

about twenty feet apart, planting the guns upon the

works and placing the paper soldiers first

knocked over are out

of the

game, and the side

completely killing the enemy's garrison

the winner of the day. exciting, especially

All paper

soldiers behind.

These

battles

is,

of course,

are always very

toward the end, when there are but a few warriors remainIn order that the

ing.

projectiles

neces-

sary

have

them

is

to

same size. Another Toy Cannon of the

is

simple to

shown

For

this,

make

in Fig. 294.

buy a short

piece of glass tubing at

a drug-store and have the druggist seal one end of

Then

all

is

that

— Another Toy Cannon.

fit

it

all

Fig. 294.

may

the cans,

it.

secure a good-sized cork and cut a hole through

the side large enough for the tube to run through (see

A

wooden wheels about them to the ends of Make the cannon the cork with a pin or small nail. shafts four inches long, point one end of each and stick in Fig. 294).

Cut out a pair

of

three inches in diameter, and fasten

SUGGESTIONS FOR FOURTH OF JULY them

into the cork at

tube should be at

B

The open end

and C.

D and

a 77

of the

the sealed end at E.

match into the open end of the tube with the head toward E, and hold a lighted match at the closed end. As soon as the heat ignites the phosphorus, the match will shoot out of To

fire

the Cannon, slip a

the open end of the tube. Firing Fireworks from Kites presents a novel feature for a

Fourth

aerial display

making a very pretty

and the boy who

manner

will

rest of the

of July

J^cordj

celebration, the spectacle,

sets off his fireworks in this

have something different from the

neighborhood.

Figure 295 shows the manner in which a

Roman-candle can be attached

A

to a kite-string.

punk about an inch and one-half long should be bound to the fuse of the candle, piece of

and as the fuse

is

rather short

it

is

necessary rStlCk]

to cut

through the paper bound around

punk

set the

shown two

into the

in the drawing.

feet

and

1

of the candle, as

Attach a piece

of twine

FlG

"

$tnk

295-

long to the other end of the candle, and then,

after getting

your kite up, attach the end

to the kite-string in

end

it,

and

of this string

light the punk, being very careful

doing so not to ignite the fuse

of the

Roman-candle.

After attaching the candle and lighting the punk,

let

out

the kite-string as rapidly as possible, so that by the time

the

punk has burned down

to the fuse end, the

Roman-

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

278

candle will be well candle to

as

begins

to

up

in

the

As soon

air.

explode, shake

the

as the

kite-string

so

the balls shoot into the sky in different

make

directions.

A

Pack

of Fire-crackers

to the fuses

and

may

with a piece of punk attached

also be

suspended from a kite-string

fired in mid-air. -Loop

in Kite String

PinHook-^

Lantern String

Fig. 297.

Fig. 296.

Schemes

for Attaching Lanterns to Kite-strings.

Other fireworks may be lights

produce a fine

set off similarly,

and colored

effect.

means of a crossChapter XVII, present

Nigger-chasers shot into the air by

bow, such as

is

described

in

another novelty. Japanese Lanterns

hung from

kite-strings are also a

pretty sight, and, while they give

somewhat the same

SUGGESTIONS FOR FOURTH OF JULY

279

appearance as fire-balloons, they are lasting and can be saved for another year. After procuring a

shapes and there

is

no

number

sizes, fasten

possibility of

lanterns

of

of

different

candles securely in them so that

them

igniting the paper.

Fig-

ures 296 and 297 show two ways in which the lanterns may be attached one below the other. The first method

through the bottoms

(Fig. 296) consists of pins stuck of the lanterns

and bent over into hooks, while

second (Fig. 297) a small hole

is

one lantern and the wire handle is

made of

in the

another

in the

bottom

of

Fuse

slipped through this hole and looped over

a burnt match.

lanterns,

Wire,

sending up the kite with these

Before

make

a

number

of small loops in

the kite-string where you wish to lanterns,

and provide the handle

hang of

series of lanterns with a pin-hook, as in Fig. 297.

readiness,

the

each

shown

Then, when everything

is

in

have one of your friends hook the

lanterns to the loops while you attend

to

Fig. 298.

—A

Shooting-torch.

Of course the smaller the lanterns are the greater number you can hitch in place, and if you use a team of kites you will find that they will carry a number of strings of lanterns. A Shooting-torch, such as is shown in Fig. 298, is a scheme that is simple to carry out. It consists of a stick about eighteen inches long, with fire-crackers bound letting out the kite-string.

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

280

around

shown

it

with wire, and the fuses twisted together, as

in the illustration.

It

is

same way

fired in the

as a Roman-candle.

After firing

A

A

all of

your fireworks, you should have

Final Set-piece with which to close the exhibition.

good scheme

Mark out

for

the letters

such a piece

is

shown

Fig. 299.

in

upon a board, and, with a quarterinch

bore holes

bit,

about one half-inch apart along the outlines of

Then

each

letter.

enough punk two

cut

sticks of

inches long to Fig. 299.

— A Final Set-piece.

soak in kerosene. brighter than is

it

The

would

oil

of

all

the

fit

holes,

and put them to makes the punk burn much

in its dry state.

thoroughly soaked, stick the pieces

When in

the

punk

the holes.

A

candle will be found most convenient for lighting the

punk. Nail the board to a tree or post, and place several

cannon-crackers in holes bored near the bottom of the board.

After allowing the punk to burn for a short

time, light the cannon-crackers

piece as a grand finish.

and blow up the

set-

CHAPTER XXI HALLOWEEN

Halloween,

or the eve of All Saints' Day, has been

observed since the beginning of the Christian

In

era.

very early times, ghosts, demons, and spirits were believed to rule the universe on this evening,

and any one who

ventured upon the streets after dark was doing so at

For companionship, as well as protection, it was customary for large numbers of friends to spend the evening together and these gathered around the risk of his

life.

;

the fire-place, and passed

away the time drinking

cracking nuts, eating apples, and telling ghost

While the

superstitious fears of

entirely disappeared, the evening

Halloween have almost is

generally celebrated

same manner as in the past. evening on which a boy can feel free

This

in the

doors without danger of being

"

cider,

stories.

to play

is

the only

pranks out-

pinched," and

it

is

his

delight to scare passing pedestrians, ring door-bells, and

carry off the neighbors' gates (after seeing that his is

unhinged and

is

suspected, and the next day

safely placed in the barn).

made

to

Even

own if

he

remove the rub-

bish barricading the doors, lug back the stone carriage a8i

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

28a

and climb a tree for the front gate, the punishment nothing compared with the sport the pranks have fur-

step, is

nished him.

going too

There

of course,

is,

far with their

such a thing as boys

Halloween fun and getting into

malicious mischief, but the cautious boy

not likely to

is

cause any serious trouble by his actions.

Every boy who has used a bean-blower knows that the beans swell when held in the mouth, often to such

Fig. 300.

— A Section through the Bean-blower. A

an extent that they clog the tube.

Magazine Bean-blower.

will

not go through the opening, and

Figure 300 shows a scheme for a

Magazine Bean-blower, which does away with culty,

inasmuch as with

mouth.

it

this diffi-

the beans are not put in the

The drawing shows

a section taken through

the centre of one the writer has before him, which works

admirably.

This bean-blower

will cost

you

just

two

HALLOWEEN cents, the price of

two

283

of the regular nineteen-inch tin

tubes sold in the stores.

To

these add a large ribbon-

which can be had for the asking

spool,

dry goods

store,

some

glue,

and a sheet

almost any

at

of writing paper.

Place the spool in your bench-vise, and bore a quarterinch hole in the centre of the side of

This hole should be on a

300).

When

ing.

has been

this

shown

done, take

tubes and cut off two sections of

small until

one

the tin

of

one four inches long

it,

piece

it

of

to

make

it

nel, as

A, gluing a

tightly (see

fit

B

paper

strip of

A

in Fig. 300).

paper smeared with glue should be wrapped

around the other end of

shown

in

tube in the form of a fun-

this

Fig. 301.

Press the paper around the

shown

in the section drawing, Fig.

of the tube, as

300, and use plenty of glue upon it Glue a strip of paper around the short

one end of the

little

is

done by filing through the tin on one side with a and then bending the tube back and forth Place the end of the four-inch tube in it breaks.

around

in

This

file,

the hole bored in the spool at

end

draw-

in the

and the other three and one-half inches long. easily

Fig.

and extend only

slant,

into the hollow part of the spool, as

A,

(see

it

spool, as

wooden mouthpiece

to

make

tube,

it

and

stiff.

stick

it

The

shown

at C, Fig. 300.

that

furnished with bean-

is

blowers nowadays should be slipped over the other end of the tube, as

shown

second bean-blower, and glue spool, as

shown

at

D.

drawing.

in the it

Now

in the other

take the

end

The bean-blower is now

of the

complete.

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

To

operate

hold the spool in one

it,

number

and, after dropping a

into the magazine, place the

of

hand,

beans or peas

palm

of the other

hand over the top of the paper funnel, and blow until the tube is emptied. It is necessary to close the opening in the top of the magabeans

zine, or the

of

from the end

blow out

will

of

tube

always work better than blower,

it

instead

Dried

peas

a

bean-

beans

in

round and

they are

as

D.

of

never

clog

the tube.

The

drumming noise of upon a window is enough loud

rattled

one the cold

shivers,

and

if

a

tick-tack

to give

the guests of a

Halloween party are gathered about the place, telling weird

noise

ghost

sufficient

is

to

stories, this

by supernatural beings.

A New in Fig.

fire-

unearthly

give even the bravest

heart a conviction that the house

friends used to

any

The

is

haunted

writer and his

make

Style of Tick-tack, such as illustrated

302,

which claims several advantages

over the ordinary kind.

In the

first

place

it

has a crank arrangement which does away with the long string that

is

everlastingly

entangled, and only one boy

operate

it

is

becoming

necessary to

where two are required with the

old-style affair.

Again, by having the

tick*

HALLOWEEN

285

tack upon the end of a long pole, second-story windows

For the making of tick-tack, procure two large spools, some heavy and a long pole (perhaps you can borrow your

can easily be reached this

cord,

with

it.

mother's clothes-pole for the occasion). cut notches it

one end

to

the

in

flanges

With

a knife

one spool, and fasten

of

of the pole, driving a large nail

through

the hole in the centre of the spool into the pole (see Fig.

Place the other spool in your bench-vise

302).

Bore. Hole for Nail

t

Fig. 303.

Fig. 304.

Details of

and saw

it

Crank

for Tick-tack.

shown

two

is

one-half the size of B, or one-third of the

so that

A

length

of the

pieces, as

spool.

Cut a

strip

in Figs.

wood about

of

inches long, bore a hole near one end a

a sixteen-penny spool

A

nail,

and

into

of

nail the

little

strip

six

larger than

to the

end

of

so that the hole comes exactly over the one in

the spool (see Fig. 303).

end

303 and 304,

in

C

by means

the strip.

of a

Attach spool nail driven

The crank

is

B

to the other

through the hole

now completed, and

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

*86

should be fastened to the lower end of the pole by means

through the hole

of a nail driven

that this tick-tack

in

A.

crank at the lower end of the pole

is

from slipping on the pole, a

— wnftnrn—

u P on

N^JiJlufcl a

To keep

the cord

resin should be rubbed

and it might be well upon the spools.

it,

little

A

little

The

turned and revolves

the notched spool at the upper end.

C

be seen

It will

a simple piece of apparatus.

is

also to

Clock-work Tick-tack, such as

trated in Fig. 305,

is

rub

is illus-

another good idea,

and one that can be carried out with a few minutes' work.

Remove

the works

from an old alarm clock, and fasten them with wire or cord to the end of a pole,

Attach a cord to the

as shown.

and make

it

striker,

long enough to reach to the

other end of the pole.

Make

a loop in

the end of the cord, and drive a nail into Fig. 305.

The Clock-work Tick-tack.

the pole over which to loop the cord to

keep the striker in check. This tick-tack is

worked by placing the end

of the pole

close to the window-glass, with the striker toward the glass,

and slipping the cord

off its nail.

The

striker is

controlled entirely by the cord.

The Goblin-man (Fig. 306) is easily made out of such material as you can most generally find about the house.

The framework shown

for the

in Fig. 307,

body

of this ghostly creature is

and consists

of a pole

about four feet

HALLOWEEN long with the centre of nailed across

an eighteen-inch crosspiece

In order to fasten these pieces firmly

it.

together, they should be halved as

XIX.

Chapter

arms sticks

consist

(A and

right

shown

in

Fig. 267,

The two

of

B in

Fig.

together

fastened

307) at

287

with

angles

small iron braces, and

near

screwed in place

the ends of the crosspiece,

as

shown

the illustration.

in

Holes

should be bored through the arm pieces in order that freely

they

on

may the

work screws.

Place a small screw-eye in

each arm at B, and

attach a short string to it.

A short stick should F IG

be nailed to the four-

foot pole about eighteen inches

that the boy

upon

who

carries

the

306.

.

- The Goblin-man.

from the lower end, so

framework can

rest

it

his shoulder.

The head

of the goblin

is

a jack-o'-lantern

of a piece of cardboard, bent as

held in this shape by

means

of

shown

in

made out

Fig. 308,

and

broom-wire laced back

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

288

and forth across the

Cut a hole the shape

top.

an

of

ear in each side, and paste a piece of red tissue-paper

over the opening.

paper a

little

For the

larger than the face

out eyes, nose, and

a piece of white

face, take

mouth upon

it,

going to

is

be,

mark

and cut the openings

for them.

Paste red tissue-

paper over the openings for the eyes,

and mark a

large black pupil

in the

corner of each (Fig. 309).

For the mouth, paste a piece of white tissue-paper

over

the

and

opening,

mark out the

teeth

black (Fig. 309).

in

A piece

of red tissue-paper should

be pasted over the opening for the nose.

After

finishing the face, paste

on Fig. 307.

to the cardboard head.

— Framework of the Goblin-man. The is

by means

goblin's countenance

lighted

of a candle fastened in a

Cut down one side

of the

a can-opener, and tack

it

up from

within,

baking-powder can.

can with a pair of tin-shears or

it

to the

inches above the crosspiece, as

framework about

shown

in Fig. 307.

six

This

can must not be put in place, however, until the head fastened to the framework, which

is

is

done by punching

HALLOWEEN a hole in the cardboard large of the pole.

Get an old derby

389

enough

to

admit the end

for a hat, and, after

punch-

ing a few holes in the top for the heat and smoke of the candle

Cover the back

way

that

it

sew

escape,

to

may

of the

it

to

cardboard head.

the

head with black cloth

in

such a

To

be opened to light the candle.

save

the goblin-man the embarrassment of losing his head,

Wire

FlG

Fig. 308. Figs. 308-309.

drive a nail through the

— The

crown

-

309.

Goblin's Head.

of the derby-hat into the

For a neck, button a cuff around the pole between the crosspiece and head.

end

A

of the pole.

white suit of clothes

for the goblin to wear.

is,

of course, the correct style

This can be found

nightshirt, lengthened with white cloth,

if

in

an old

necessary, to

make it reach the ground when it is placed upon him. The shoulders should be padded out to hide the framework.

When

the goblin-man

is

finished, strap the shoulder-

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

29o

your shoulder, and fasten the end

stick of the frame to of the pole to

your waist with a

Your hands

belt.

are

then free to manipulate the arms, by means of the cords Before starting out upon the

attached to their ends. street,

As

have some one

light the candle in the head.

this weird-looking creature passes

along the

with glaring eyes and other features equally

streets,

brilliant,

people will have to stop to reassure themselves that they

some unearthly demon. furnish amusement for at

are not face to face with

A

trick that will

portion of the evening

The Disappearing Rope, which idea, but

one which

is

not an entirely

is

always popular.

ber of rubber bands and

Then

tie

them

Procure a

this, cross

new

num

together, end to end.

with the word over the string It is

bands

danger where it

"

"

will stretch,

printed upon

a grab for

sidewalk to

it

and hang a sign it

in large letters

crosses the sidewalk.

who

only natural that the person

make

After doing

over the sidewalk with the string, pulling

tightly so the rubber

it,

sees this sign

thinking you are blocking the

make him walk around

opportunity to act quickly and will

a

attach one end of these to a front fence, and to

the other end fasten several yards of string.

will

least

is

let

go

it.

This

is

of the string,

your

which

snap back to the fence upon the contraction of the

rubber bands, and disappear from view, leaving your

much-astonished friend to pass on, knowing that the joke

is

upon him.

CHAPTER XXII A BACK- YARD TOBOGGANSLIDE

It

the misfortune of a great

is

many boys

to

be

deprived of one of winter's greatest sports, by living

where there are no hills upon which These boys have little use for sleds aside from to coast. "hitching," unless they can make an artificial slide. In in a flat country

a

number

of large cities, toboggan-slides

are erected in the parks each year,

Although

the use of the public.

this coasting

equal that to be had on natural

hills, it

pastime to thousands of boys and

girls,

many who have

treat to artificial

The

never seen

on a large scale

and thrown open to cannot

affords a great

and

is

a luxurious

hills larger

than the

park variety.

construction of a toboggan-slide

is

not difficult

boy or several boys, and though it must be limited has an advantage in that there is not a long walk from the end of the run back to the

for a

in size, a small slide

starting-point. It

is

a

good idea

to locate the

back-yard or an enclosed

cannot monopolize

it

;

lot,

and

it 291

toboggan-slide in a

so that the outside fellows is

well to have

some

firm

39a

A BACK-YARD TOBOGGAN-SLIDE object to which the framework can be

*93

fastened, as

it

saves a great deal of bracing, and materially lessens the

amount

of

The work should be done

lumber needed.

the early part of the

fall,

before the cold weather sets

in in.

Figure 310 shows a slide built in the corner of a yard against the fence.

The Length If

the yard

be determined by the size of the yard.

will

the end of the

A

fasten

one

another

B in

run before reaching

be built in the corner, six feet

and about seven

cut four

this,

its full

lot.

Platform should

square,

should be proportioned

short, the slide

is

accordingly, to allow the sled

feet

two-by-fours

above the ground.

six

feet

For

nine inches long,

the angle formed by the two fences, and

in

four inches to the right of

five feet

Fig. 312).

The

it

(A and

third upright (C) should be nailed

to the fence five feet eight inches

from A, and the fourth

(D) should be fastened at an equal distance from B.

Then and

cut two pieces of two-by-four each six feet long,

nail

them across the tops of A and shown at and in

E

respectively, as

uprights

should

diagonal

bracing,

now be as

F

braced

shown

in

with

C,

and

B and

D,

Fig. 312.

The

horizontal

and

Fig. 312, to

give the

platform the necessary stiffness.

After deciding upon the length of the

upon

slide, lay off

the

ground from the bottom of upright B, and drive a stake into the ground at the farther end.

distance

Then

the

attach a cord to the stake and run

it

along the

?

1

Jj 1

/

1

/

i

/

1

r

1

U

v

Sf

1 fZ

/

f

t1

\— « 1

294

A BACK-YARD TOBOGGAN-SLIDE

295

fence to a nail driven into the top of upright B.

shown

This

marks the pitch of the slide, and give you a guide-line by which to work. When this

cord, will

in Fig. 311,

has been done, cut three pieces of two-by-four about two

and spike them to the fence

feet long,

guide-line

about

G,

(see

six feet apart

H, and

/,

below the

just

Fig. 311), spacing

When

on centres.

these have been

and mark

fastened in place, take a piece of two-by-four off

upon

block

/.

it

the distance from the ground to the top of

Then square

this point, at

block

/

is

a line across the two-by-four at

an angle corresponding to that at which

Saw

nailed to the fence (see Fig. 313).

two-by-four on this front of

them

block

/,

line,

and then stand

it

the

upright in

thirty or thirty-two inches

from the

fence (according to whether eight- or ten-inch boards

upon the slide), and spike a piece of two-by-four to the top of it and to the top of block /, as shown in Fig. 312. Cut and set up a similar upright and crosspiece at G and at H, after which brace all as shown in

are used

the illustration (Fig. 312). If

you are going

to

buy boards with which

to cover

the platform and slide, get twelve-foot lengths, eight or ten inches wide.

and but

little

By using

these you will have no waste,

cutting to do.

material of other dimensions use,

the

supports of

that the boards

will

the

If,

however, you have

on hand which you can

slide

should be so spaced

reach from one to another.

boards should run lengthwise upon the

slide,

The

and be

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

296

nailed to the framework, leaving as small cracks as possible

between them.

In order to prevent sleds from running off the

slide,

a guide should be nailed to the edge farthest from the

from the top to the bottom, and on the opposite

fence,

side

where

it

extends above the fence top (see Fig. 310).

After nailing the platform boards in place, Build a Railing out of boards around three sides of to prevent

A

any one from slipping

Ladder,

made out

of

it,

off (see Fig. 310).

two two-by-fours, with two-

inch strips nailed across them, should be set against the front of the platform

and spiked

place, as

in

shown

This

the illustration of the completed slide (Fig. 310).

easier to reach the platform than by the

will

make

way

of the icy slide,

it

in

and

also prevents those coasting

from colliding with those who are returning.

Any slide

ingenious boy will

know how

by turning the hose upon

it,

to

make

a swift

and allowing the

water to run over the surface until every portion

is

well covered.

A

toboggan-sled

this size,

and

will

is

out of proportion for a slide of

not be found as satisfactory as a sled

with runners, as the steepness of the slide will not be sufficient to

A

make

Home-made

requires but

it

Sled,

little

go.

such as that shown in Fig. 314,

material,

and

if

carefully

made

will

prove stronger than the variety commonly sold in the shops.

A BACK-YARD TOBOGGAN-SLIDE

297

Figure 315 shows the pattern for the runners, which should be cut out of four-inch boards, seven-eighths of an

Round

inch thick.

the top edges, and cut the front

and rear ends as shown

Fig. 314.

in the

Make

in the drawing.

—A

Home-made

a slot

Sled.

place indicated for a handle, and bore a hole

near the front end for the crosspiece to run through.

The

seat

consists

of

a

board cut twenty-two inches

long and nine inches wide.

This

to the runners but to cleats, as

shown

will

not be nailed

in Fig. 316.

Cut -1

Fig. 315.

three

cleats

nine

— Pattern

and

for

Runners.

one-quarter

inches wide, and seven-eighths of an

inches inch

long,

two

thick,

and

fasten these between the runners, five-eighths of an inch

from their

tops, placing

one near the end

of

the seat,

Four twoinch iron braces should be procured, and two of these

one

at the centre,

and one

at

the front.

OUTDOOR PASTIMES

298

screwed to the under side of the front and rear

and

The

shown

to the sides of the runners, as

seat can then be

nailed

in

place,

handle fastened in the hole bored

cleats,

Fig.

in

316.

and a broom-

near the

ends of

the runners.

The Best Kind

of Iron

Runners for a home-made sled are

those that a boy can put on without the aid of a blacksmith, and such a pair of runners

is

shown ing

Seat

They

^,\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\^^ 7

/a"

Cleats.

—A

sled.

consist

of

half-oval iron strips,

r

and

-2/4 "Half-Oval Iron Strips-

Fig. 316.

this

what are known as

2"x 2" /RON Braces-

q

draw-

in the

of

can

be

had

usually at a hard-

Section through the Sled.

ware store or blacksmith shop. of

A

pair forty inches long

an inch wide, with

drilled in each,

five holes for

can be bought for

and three-quarters

countersunk screws fifty

cents.

When

they have been procured, screw them to the bottom of the runners, using one inch or one and one-quarter inch

screws for the purpose.

Although these runners are plenty heavy enough for light coasting, they would probably prove weak for coasting upon hills of any great size. To withstand the strain brought to bear upon the runners when hill coasting, boys generally find it necessary to make them out of twoinch stuff. This, however, makes the sled heavy and clumsy, and can be done away with by following a

A BACK-YARD TOBOGGAN-SLIDE scheme which a

friend of the writer's invented

very satisfactory.

It

299

and found

consisted of

Reenforcing the Runners with steel bars driven into holes bored vertically in them.

The

while the runners were held in a

vise,

were a fit

tightly.

can be

filed off to the

for steel bars

When a

if

would

and sixty-penny wire

proper length and substituted

the latter cannot be obtained.

the sled has been completed,

good coat

steel bars

This scheme allows the use of seven-

eighths inch stuff for the runners, nails

and the

larger than the holes, so that they

little

them

holes were bored

of paint.

it

should be given

PART IH IincLooi?

Pastimes

A Minature Theatre.

CHAPTER

XXIII

A MINIATURE THEATRE i

y

*a t

rrmwi

ngttg& j£

I

suspended in front from the gridiron.

These

form the ceiling of the room, and generally have

INDOOR PASTIMES

324

beams or mouldings painted across but

it

will simplify

the

in

bottom edges,

their

matters to leave them plain, as shown

The

illustration.

line

which you have drawn

across the rear wall corresponds with these strips. a

number

of illustrations

Cut

from a magazine for pictures,

and either hang them upon the walls or paste them

to

Doll furnishings can be used to complete

the cardboard.

the scene.

There are a great variety

upon which a

of subjects

boy can base his plays, but what probably will make the most interesting programme and one of the simplest to prepare

is

— In

you can picture a number of battles after the descriptions you have read in your history, or dramatize one of your favorite war stories, bring-

A War

Drama.

this

young heroes before the footlights. plays will give you an opportunity to use ing

its

Paper Soldiers for actors. of these, but

if

not,

They come upon

This

class of

Probably you have a supply

you can get them

at

any toy

store.

printed sheets ready to be cut out, and

as they cost only a

penny a sheet

it

pays to buy rather

make them. Cavalry and infantry of about every nationality, Indi-

than

ans in various positions upon horseback and on foot, and a large assortment of American soldiers in marching order and fighting array are these sheets.

now

to be found in

For

Marching Soldiers across the stage, tack their feet to

SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS

325

a lath as shown in Fig. 345, and then slide the lath

same time pushing out one of forming the floor. The moving of the laths

across the stage, at the

the laths

scarcely will be noticeable from the

position of

your

audience. Separate Standards for soldiers you wish to set about the stage should have small strips of cardboard glued to their backs

and bent out

At

backs are made.

in the

same manner

least four or five

of the

as easelsoldiers

should be jointed so they can walk about the stage and

Fig. 345.

appear perhaps a

— Scheme

little

their stiff-jointed

for

Marching Soldiers.

more graceful

in their actions

comrades who are fastened

to

than laths.

Figure 346 shows

A

made out of a paper soldier. Suppose soldier in some such position as shown in

Jointed Figure

you have a Fig. 347.

First cut off the legs along the dotted lines

shown in the illustration, each leg in two pieces (see Figs. 347 and 348), A, B, C, and Remove also the hand projecting beyond the body at E. A small piece of cardboard of the same thickness as that upon which the

D

y

soldiers are printed should be glued to the

and

D where

back

of

C

those pieces were cut into in cutting off

INDOOR PASTIMES

326

the legs (see F, G, and //, Fig. 348).

been done, pivot

A

and

then pivot the ends of

B

to

C and

When

this

has

C and D at F and G, and D at H and / to the hips

Thread should be used for pivoting these pieces together, with knots tied on either end. New arms will have to be made, as those printed upon the body of the soldier (see Fig. 346).

cannot

be

cut

These are

out.

made

two

in

pieces similar to

/ and

K

You

348. find

in Fig.

it

thing

will

a simple to

make

them and paint the hands flesh Fig. 347 Fig. 346. color and the Scheme for making a Jointed Figure. sleeves to match at L and the end of the rest of the clothes. Pivot / to The arm printed upon the side to the shoulder at M.

K

K

of the figure

now be painted so as to blend with The white cardboard glued to the

should

the color of the coat.

joints should also be painted to correspond with the rest

You soldier much

of the body.

jointed

and cut out one

of

will find this

method

of

making a

easier than to attempt to draw, paint,

your own design.

Figures in other

positions can, of course, be jointed in the

same manner.

SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS

The movements pieces of

head, as

of a jointed figure are controlled

attached

silk-thread

shown

in Fig. 346.

carried through the top

made

loops

in their

of

your hands,

It

will

to

work the threads

with

the hands, feet, and These threads should be the stage framework and to

ends should

slip

over the fingers

which position they can be operated.

in

take a

of

327

practice beforehand to enable you

little

you

will

not be

responsible for such laughable performances as

making

successfully, so

him dance while delivering a

farewell address, or leave

the scene through the top of the stage during an exciting

portion of the play.

an interior scene, such as Fig. 343, the jointed figures will have to make their entrees and exits In

through the

the

passages

proscenium,

between the front

walls

and

the

as

operating cords would

in-

them going

terfere with

through the other open-

The

ings.

will

figures

through

pass

the

which doors

have to be tacked to

the floor laths and shoved

a

across the stage.

All

known

movable furnishings

the small

Tent.

of

a scene are

as

Stage Properties. ture, boats, carts,

— These include such pieces as

and

trains.

furni-

INDOOR PASTIMES

3««

Tents

ment

will

be necessary properties for an

These should be cut out

scene.

encamp-

of white

paper

the pattern of Fig. 349, then folded along the dotted lines,

and edge

flaps

will

be

B

A.

pasted over the flap

left

open.

The

front

Figure 350 shows the tent

set up.

An

Indian Teepee will also be required for Indian war-

Follow the pattern shown

fare.

it

in off

made up skins,

marking

Fig. 351,

though

as

of a

it

number

and place

Then

Fig. 351.

A

shown

flap

A

upon

three

or

four short sticks and, after crossing

in Fig. 352, fasten the

bending over

Fig. 352.

Teepee.

cut

of

few

a

figures of decoration it.

were

their

ends

as

paper covering over them,

along the dotted

line,

and pasting

B

it.

The

scene (Fig. 330) and the blockhouse scene (Fig. 338) will be used for the settings of your battlefields. For your miniature sea-fights, the mid-ocean field

scene will be used. Battleships should be in Fig. 353, with the strips of It will

to

of cardboard as

shown

masts reenforced at the back with

wood, and the rigging made with heavy thread.

be well to have a number of pictures from which

work

your

made out

in

fleet.

drawing and painting the various ships

The

hull of each ship should

of

be curved as

SCENERY, PROPERTIES, AND MECHANICAL EFFECTS

shown

in the illustration,

Make

rocker.

edge first

a

of the hull, to

and mounted upon a cardboard

number

of slashes

and bend out the

one side and then

ing), after

329

along the curved

little

flaps alternately,

to the other (see

A

in draw-

which

glue them to the

Attach

rocker.

a cord at B, with

which

to

pull

the ship across the

and

stage,

another cord at C, with

which

guide the stern. the

strips

A

them. little

Fig. 353.

—A

Battleship.

to

of

The

hull will, of course, run

waves, so as

be half

to

person cannot imagine

battleships appear

when

how

between

concealed

by

realistic these

tossing about upon the

toy waves, without having seen

them

in operation.

Wagons can be cut out of cardboard and means of laths to which they have been attached in the same manner as the paper soldiers shown in Fig. 345. Toy wagons, carriages, and Trains and

moved

across the stage by

an automobile such as described also be used in

some

in

Chapter

XXVI, may

scenes.

Rain, wind, thunder, and such stage sounds, a sun-rise,

known

and lightning, as produced on the

as

Mechanical Effects.

— Most

of

these

can

moon

or

stage, are

easily

be

INDOOR PASTIMES

330

adapted to your theatre, though the apparatus need not be as elaborate as that used by professionals.

Thunder can be produced by means of a large piece

heavy cardboard held by one corner, as shown

of

in the

chapter heading, and vibrated back and forth.

The

beating of

Rain upon the outside cf a house

is

imitated with a

upon the

small quantity of dried peas or beans dropped

head of a drum or into a cardboard box. door

is

Every time the

opened during such a storm, the audience should

hear the whistling of the

Wind, which whistles.

The

is

by a few low

imitated

stage

must,

of

course,

be

drawn-out dark

for

producing Lightning,

in

flashes can be

order to

made by

get

the

best

igniting a small

effects.

amount

The

of flash-

light powder, placed in a tin can cover.

The Roar

of

Cannon and

imitated to good effect

firing of smaller

upon a drum.

guns can be

CHAPTER XXV ~ZL

MAKING A TOY RAILWAY

beyond a boy's ingenuity to construct, whereas, in reality, it is one This applies to the of the simplest toys he can make. It

is

often thought that a toy

tracks, stations,

and cars

railway

is

of every description, all of

which

can be made with a few strips of wood, some spools, If nails, cardboard, and a bottle of glue, for materials.

you have passed the age you

will,

one

for

of

of caring for

such toys as

this,

no doubt, enjoy the making of

your younger brother, or for one

your boy

relatives.

355 shows a railway set up and in running order. As shown in the

Figure

illustration,

The

Trolley-line,

or

overhead

cable,

runs around the wheels of two supports,

one

at either

four pieces of

end

of the track.

Prepare

wood the shape and

size Fig.

354. 354 for the uprights of these supports, and make two wheels three inches in

of that

shown

diameter.

in Fig.

The wheels may be marked 331

out with a piece

INDOOR PASTIMES

33«

of string if

and pencil as shown

you haven't a compass.

in Fig. 201,

When

Chapter

XV,

the wheels have been

cut out, place them in your bench-vise, one at a time,

Fig. 355.

— The

Toy Railway

and with a rasp make a groove around the edge as

shown

Bore a three-eighths inch hole

at C, Fig. 356.

through each upright

at

F, Fig. 354, and another through the centre of each wheel.

Now

two

fasten

of

the

uprights six inches apart

upon a block of wood, as shown at A and B, Fig. 356. fit

loosely in the holes of

the Fig. 356.

— Support for Trolley-line.

Whittle a shaft to

uprights,

slipping

,

,

.

ten one of the wheels

one end and a small spool upon the other in Fig. 356).

A

to the base, as

shown

after

into them, fas-

it r

and,

(see

upon

C and

D

weight of some sort should be fastened at

E.

The

uprights for the other

MAKING A TOY RAILWAY

333

support should be similarly mounted upon another block of

wood.

Fasten the remaining wheel to an axle run

through the holes

in the uprights, and, as

it is

unneces-

in Operation.

sary to have a spool

upon the other end

of the axle, cut

and drive a nail through it to prevent it from Having thus prepared the slipping through the holes. supports, place them as far apart as you wish to extend the railway, and run a cord around the two wheels and tie it. it

off short

Then

set the supports a little farther apart,

tighten the cord.

A

Run

if

necessary, to

another cord from spool

D to

Water-motor, steam engine, or whatever power you

can get with which to operate the railway. inverted with the tire removed from

been used

satisfactorily, as

its

A

bicycle

rear wheel has

has also a sewing-machine

with the belt slipped off and the cord from the spool put in its place.

A

good substitute

for the tin tracks ordinarily sold in

shops for toy railways Fig- 357-

These

will

be found in those shown in

INDOOR PASTIMES

334

Tracks consist of quarter-inch strips mounted upon

Make

pieces of cardboard.

end

a small gimlet-hole in one

and drive a short finishing

of each stick,

nail in the

Cut the cardboard

opposite end (see Fig. 357).

strips

r»>in-.D< wr«.. ,

r

Fig. 357.

— The Tracks.

them to the sticks as shown in the illustration. If inch and one-half spools are used for the car wheels, the inside gauge of the tracks By lapping the should be an inch and three-quarters.

the length of the sticks, and tack

cardboard strips over the ends of the

and the

sticks,

sticks over the ends of the cardboard strips,

and placing

the nail dowels in the ends of the sticks as in the drawing, a strong track is

formed when the pieces are

fitted

This may be extended to any desired length

together.

by adding more sections to it. The Cars for this railway will have structed alike, and

it

is

their trucks con-

a simple matter to transform a If

c

±

'-*»

1

%

/

A

vJ

—tt-

J

A

'

ft'

*

1

-if-

3

\

-&-

I

Fig. 358.

3j=

— A Top View of Car Truck.

car from one style into another.

view

of a truck.

For the bed

Figure 358 shows a top

of this cut a three-eighths-

MAKING A TOY RAILWAY

335

inch board twelve inches long by two and one-quarter inches wide, and, after rounding the ends as

drawing, cut a mortise at inches from either end.

A

and

B

shown

in the

two and three-eighths

Procure two

one and one-half inch spools

for wheels,

and drive a wooden peg through the hole in

each, cutting off the ends so they

project a

little

in Fig. 359.

beyond the

Then

hole, as

shown

bore four holes in

the edges of the truck-bed with a gimlet at C,

D, E, and

F (see

in mortises

after setting the spools

and B, pivot them

in place with

driven into the wooden pegs. loosely in the gimlet

—

Spool Wheels.

Fig. 359.

drawing), and,

A

small finishing nails

These

nails

should

In order to drive

holes.

into the exact centres of the spools,

it

is

fit

them

best to locate

Fig. 360.

these points upon the ends of the pegs before placing

the spools in the frame.

A

quarter-inch hole should

be bored in the top of the truck-bed at (Fig. 358) in

G

and

H

which to fasten the two uprights /and./

INDOOR PASTIMES

336

Make

(see Fig. 360).

whittle a

the uprights four inches long and

peg upon the lower ends

to

fit

holes

Bore a hole with a gimlet

(see Fig. 361).

G and

H

in the top of

each and run a piece of heavy wire from one to the

bending

other,

tween / and

it

shown

as

the wire before you fasten

it

in place.

end

into one

should be screwed

Fasten

in Fig. 360.

K be-

Place a small brass ring upon

/, as shown.

screw-eye into the other end

A

the

of

small hook

truck

and a

for couplings, should

you

wish to hitch two or more cars together.

A

Gondola Car, such as shown in Fig. 362, should have

truck

its

made

similar to Fig. 358, with the exception

H.&E.C.R.&.

r Fig.

that

box bed

Car.

should be two inches shorter, in order that cigar-

it

can be used for the side-pieces.

Cut the an inch and one-half high and fasten them to the

strips

strips

362.— A Gondola

of the car with brads.

This car

may

be used as a

trailer.

The

shown in Fig. 360 is a rather crude but with a little more work may be transformed car

better-looking

A

car —

Street Car such as

is

shown

in Figs.

affair,

into a

363 and 364

MAKING A TOY RAILWAY being an example of what can ends,

and roof

of

337

be made.

The

sides,

made of cardboard, the which are shown on page 339.

this car are

patterns for the cutting of

Figure 365 shows a cross section taken through the centre

The two

of the car.

side-pieces

pared as shown in Fig. 366. pencil

draw

in

the

A

should be

With

windows about

first

a ruler and as

shown

lead-

in

drawing, using double lines to indicate the sash.

pre-

the

Then,

with a sharp knife, cut out the centre of each just inside

Fig. 363.

of the inner line.

may be

covered

tissue-paper

When

the

is

— Side View.

Fig. 364-

— End View.

These windows may be left open or on the inside with tissue-paper. If

used

oil

it

to

make

it

more

transparent.

two sides have been prepared, bend each Fig. 366) and tack one to your car truck as shown in Fig. 365. When

along the dotted lines (see

each side of

properly bent, the distance between the upper part of the sides should be two and three-quarters inches.

Cut

the two inner ends of the car the shape of Fig. 367, using a compass with a radius of two and one-half inches

INDOOR PASTIMES

338

Draw

with which to describe the curve at the top.

in

the panels and sash lines as you did those side-pieces,

upon the get them on the same level,

being careful to

and cut out the door and window openings. Fasten these end-pieces between the sides with glue, and also tack them to the uprights of the car (/ and /, Fig. 360), which will come just inside of them. The roof is made For B cut a piece in two sections (B and C, Fig. 365). of

cardboard twelve and one-quarter by three and three-

quarter inches (Fig. 368), draw the curved end with a

compass, using the radius shown on the drawing, and slit

the corners as indicated by the dotted lines.

this piece has thus

When

been prepared, remove the wire from

the top of the truck (see Fig. 360).

Bend the cardboard

over the sides and ends of the

and lap corners

E

car,

H

F

D

over and G, and and and / over and K, tacking them with thread to hold them in place. To fasten this

J

part of the roof to the top of the car, cut a

small strips of linen, and glue the roof

and

of

to the under side of

to the inside face of the sides

of the car (see Fig. 365).

C should

them

number

The upper

and ends

portion of the roof

be made out of a piece of cardboard bent into

the shape of Fig. 369 and cut at the ends so the upper

portion of

C projects

ventilation lights

a

little

upon the

beyond sides of

Draw

the

shown on

the

its sides.

C as

drawings, and then fasten the piece upon the top of

B

with strips of linen in the same manner as you fastened

B

in place.

C

should

now have

the

same curve

to

its

-llW

h Vf -Z

7\

3

U* B

A

°*C

CO

RADIUS.

bj.

>'G

Fig. 368.

Fig. 370.

Fig. 369

T 'MM

7

•4

XXPQO A

i

J **0 I

/Bend tlere^ 1

Fig. 366.

[BOYVILLE

—

L

Fig. 373.

— n? —

L

3Tg1>

Fig. 372.

Figs. 365-373.

U Fig. 371.

— Details 339

of

Toy

zr

Fig. 367. Street Car.

INDOOR PASTIMES

340

Cut and glue a piece

top as B.

C

of

of cardboard in

The shape

to complete the roof.

each end

of this piece is

The

shown outer ends of the car should be made as shown in Fig. 371 and tacked around the ends of the wooden truck platform, and also fastened to the under side of the roof with strips of linen. The window openings may be cut in the ends, but it will make a stronger car if they are simply drawn upon it. Cut four cardboard steps similar to Fig. 372 and tack them to in Fig. 370.

the sides of the front and

rear platforms.

When

the

car has been put together, replace the wire in the tops of

uprights the

roof

/ and (see

J

Fig.

363).

of the car yellow with

roof a light gray.

Letter the

pose.

and the number

running the ends through

(Fig. 360),

Paint the

sides

and ends

brown trimmings, and paint the

Water colors can be used for the purname of your car-line upon the sides

upon each end and side. The route should be lettered upon strips of cardboard with pins run through them as shown in Fig. 373, these strips

and

to stick

in

of the car

the

roof

of

the car (see

Figs. 363

364).

Having seen how the car is made, you will find it a make designs for Other Cars, using the same scheme for the trucks, and altering the patterns for the sides, ends, and roof, to suit

simple matter to

the design.

Nothing

has, as yet,

been said about the

Operation of the Railway, and though Fig. 355 prob-

MAKING A TOY RAILWAY ably shows sufficiently clearly

may

The

be helpful.

wooden

illustration.

run, a few

words

trolley (or cord attached to the

ring on top of the car)

the

is

it

car or cars are placed between the

and the

tracks,

how

34i

is

Upon

tied to the trolley-line as in

your engine, water-

starting

motor, or whatever motive-power you have, the car

will

run from one end of the track to the other.

When

has reached the support of the

will stop

trolley-line,

it

it

long enough for the cord trolley to pass around the

wooden wheel, and then run

Fig. 374.

until the other

— The

support

is

in

the opposite direction

Railway Depot.

reached.

It will

thus be seen

that the trolley hangs to the upper part of the cable, or trolley-line, in

running one way, and

the return run.

to the

lower part on

In changing the direction of the run,

the ring to which the trolley

is

attached slides to the

other end of the car.

A

Station such as

is

illustrated

in

Fig. 374

is

made

out of cardboard and mounted upon a seven-eighths-inch

board large enough to form a railway platform.

After

cutting out the side- and end-pieces, with door and win-

dow openings

placed as shown in the illustration, fasten

INDOOR PASTIMES

342

them together with strips of linen glued in the corners Make the roof low and extend it over the platform upon each side and over the gable-ends, as shown in the Paint the sides of the depot the regulation

illustration.

depot red, and the roof a shingle or slate color.

Paint

name

of the

the door and window-sash black, letter the

upon the gable-ends, and with a ruler and leadpencil rule off the boards upon the sides, and the slate As this is a typical railway or shingles upon the roof. station, two may be made of the same pattern, one for station

either

end

of

your car

line.

P7

CHAPTER XXVI CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES

It

is

generally easy for a boy to get hold of a set

some

of old clockworks, for a discarded clock of

almost certain to be found If

the main-spring

little

mechanism

in

is intact, it is

working

household storeroom.

in the

tinkering and cleaning

will

sort is

highly probable that a

be sufficient to put the

order, at least so that

it

can be

used for running small engines, automobiles, and other

mechanical toys that most interest boys. Before taking a

examine

it

carefully

set

works

of

apart,

it

and note the positions

ous springs and wheels, so

it

will

is

well to

of the vari-

be possible to put

them together again properly should you wish to do so. Without taking notice of this, you are likely to have a handful of wheels as a result, with which you can do

nothing except perhaps convert them into tops.

The adaption of a set of works to An Automobile Touring-car is shown

375 and showing the little machine completed and the latter its frame with the clockworks fastened in place. The same scheme as that used for the cars 376, the former

343

in Figs.

INDOOR PASTIMES

344

of the toy railway described

the preceding chapter

in

be followed in making

will

The Frame

of

the automobile, as that

makes a

simplest way, and

The bed

will

about the

easy-running vehicle.

be cut of a different pattern, however, as

be seen in Fig.

will

light,

is

Lay out

2>77*

the piece to the

dimensions shown upon this drawing, and then cut out,

making a mortise

in.

fit

The

in

IS

each end for the wheels to

mounted

spool wheels should be

P=*

it

•

6f

in

the

h=ar=1

^^

iis Fig. 377.

— Top

same manner as those Fig. 359, Chapter

One end

View of Wooden Frame.

of the railway cars, for

which see

XXV, and the directions upon page 335.

A

of spool

should be pivoted with a longer

finishing nail than those used for the other pivots, so that

when driven

ject

beyond the frame.

in place

A

about half an inch

will pro-

small silk spool should be

fastened upon this for a belt-wheel (see B, Fig. 377).

The of

hole in one of these spools

an inch

upon the

is

about three-sixteenths

in diameter, so, in order to nail, it is

necessary to

fill

make

in

it fit

tightly

around the nai

1

Fie. 375.

Fig

376.

The Cab

Cumi'eeted.

The Fkamewokk.

CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES To do

with sealing-wax.

upon

this,

345

wooden frame

turn the

edge and place the spool over the

its

nail,

being

careful to get the nail in the exact centre of the hole.

Then

hold a stick of sealing-wax over the spool, and

with a lighted match

When

drip into the hole. filled, it

allow the

wax

down around

to

the

being careful not

to

the end

melt

it

to

the hole has been partially

harden a

nail

and allow

with

little,

the

and then press

end

of

throw the spool out

a

match,

of centre

by

The hole should then be filled to the top. We are now ready to prepare the clockworks for mounting upon the wooden frame. The works shown

doing

in

so.

Fig. 376 are

from an alarm clock, but

a striking clock, or one with works a

from those shown

in the illustration,

it

if

little

you have different

does not make

scheme for attaching the works. The three parts shown in the foreground of Fig. 376 must first be removed from the works. These will be recognized readily in any clock, as they are pivoted close together, and regulate the speed of the other wheels. When they have been removed, the mainspring will unwind rapidly. The frame of the works shown in the illustration is held together with nuts, so that in removing the wheels it was necessary to unscrew two of them, spring the frame open enough to let the wheels drop out, and then replace the nuts again a bit of difference

in their

works

is

in

the

former positions.

If

the frame of your clock-

riveted together, the wheels will have to be

INDOOR PASTIMES

346

A

broken out.

small silk spool, such as

B

(Fig. 377),

should be fastened upon the small pivot which originally operated the clock's hands, for a belt-wheel.

Lay

works upon a table with the face-side down, and,

the after

centring the hole of the spool upon the pivot, fasten it

place with

in

sealing-wax

in

same manner as

the

you attached spool B.

The works should now be

attached to the

wooden

Place them with the striker uppermost, near the

frame.

of the frame, so that the small belt-wheels are in

edge

line with

one another.

Then

bore a number of gimlet

wooden frame and run copper wire through

holes in the

them, passing

and twisting

it

its

around the posts

the clock-frame

of

ends until the works are firmly fastened

in place.

A

rubber band about an eighth of an inch wide and

long enough to reach from one belt-wheel to the other should be procured for

The

Belt.

upon the

much

— This should

spools, as

enough to cling would cause too

stretch just

more than

that

friction.

Before going any further with the construction of the

automobile Test the Machine, to be sure that

ning order.

Wind

it is

in perfect run-

up the main-spring, pressing a finger

against one of the wheels to hold

it

in

check

until

you are ready to start the machine. When properly made, the clockwork automobile should run a distance

r

*

»

4

>

a>

»

«)

^ X 7 \

\\

1

V

r— -—

r^

>

(

\ 1

^

Cy

fc

VV

^

^*s -~**

^

CO

5o CO r-

o O

CO

&

r~~ j

c

O

-

7

"?* m

fao

\

CO

(

o

\

\a

/

J

\%

-/^

d

a

r

v^_>

-4"

CO •

f,

L

O '"*«.

^ / \

~~/

«f

M

•»

5



o

,

INDOOR PASTIMES

348 of

from twenty to twenty-five

upon a wooden

feet

floor,

while about three-quarters of that distance should be

covered upon a floor with a fairly smooth carpet.

The Cardboard Sides and other

now be made.

mobile should

have been so shown easily be

means

laid

out

in

details

The

Figs.

pattern for

378-385

of the process of enlarging

these

that they can

the proper shape

to

the auto-

of

and

by

size

by squares described

on page no, Chapter VIII.

White

cardboard should be used upon which to

draw these

is

the easier you will find

pieces,

and the thinner it

to

it

work

with. First prepare the

two

them out by the pattern

Then

sides, cutting

of Fig. 378.

glue the bottom edge of each

side to the edge of the

wooden frame,

HAMMER ON Clockworks

cutting holes in the

left

side for the

belt-wheels and projecting posts to run

through (see Fig. 375 and A, B,

Fig. 386.

and E, Fig. should

387).

now be

The

cut as

C,

top to the front of the car

shown

in

Fig. 388, the distance

between the sides being measured to get the piece proper dimensions.

D,

Bend the edges

as

in

Fig.

of

388,

and glue them to the inner surfaces of the side-pieces as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 387. In the same way cut and glue a piece of cardboard between the (Fig. 387) for the seat-backs. side-pieces at G and

H

CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES The bent edges

of

these pieces are

Draw

lines in the illustration.

Wheels as shown

which

in

— Cardboard

You can

sharp knife.

shown by dotted

four

compass with

Fig. 379, using a

to describe the circles,

Fig. 387.

349

and cut them out with a

Side of Automobile.

cut out between the spokes,

you wish, or leave them

solid.

if

Glue the wheels to the

cardboard, placing their centres about as located at /

and

/,

Fig. 387.

Four

Mud-guards should be cut

made along one

edge.

Fig. 380, with flaps

like

Then bend

these guards around

the tops of the wheels, and, after applying glue to the flaps,

press

your fingers (see

them against the cardboard side, holding upon the flaps until the glue has dried

Fig. 375).

The guards should be Cut four and glue end

placed a

little

above the tops of the wheels.

Lamps

like

Fig. 381,

K

the front of the automobile at the other two

upon each

L

side at

two upon (Fig. 387) and one of M. These lamps are of

INDOOR PASTIMES

35°

shown

completed

in position in the illustration of the

automobile (Fig. 375). Draw and cut The Steering-wheel similarly to Fig. pivoting

to the

it

end

of a strip of

382, and, after

cardboard with a

shown

pin, as

in

Fig. 389,

and

bend the lower end glue

Make

Horn glue as strip of

F at

(see Fig. 387, also Fig.

375).

Fig. 388.

under side

cardboard top

of the

N

to the

it

it

a

like Fig. 383,

and

to the steering-wheel

shown

in Fig. 389.

A

cardboard about the size of that used for the

upright of the steering-wheel should be cut for

The Brake, and glued face

of

the

right

side

to the inside sur-

the

of

car at

O

(Fig. 387).

The Chauffeur should now be made. his

head and body the shape and

Fig. 384, drawing the face

with goggles over the eyes. in

two pieces the shape

385),

at

Q

to

the

shoulder

of

to

size of

upon each side Cut the arms P and Q (Fig.

Q

and then pivot

end of

P

of

Cut

R

and the

the body

at S, using thread for fastening the pieces

together.

Paint the hat, coat, sleeves, and

gloves a leather color, and the face flesh

steering-wheeL

CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES The body should then be

color.

hammer

the

hand should be glued to the steering-wheel and the right to the end

the brake (see

body

to

386, while the left

the edge of of

fastened

of the clockworks with sealing-wax, as shown

Fig.

in

351

to the

end

Fig.

By thus attaching

375).

of the

the

hammer, and winding up the

small spring, the chauffeur will shake violently

when

the auto runs across the floor, showing the vibrations

machine

of the

exaggerated and amusing

in a greatly

manner. It is

now

only necessary to

Paint the Machine to complete (Fig.

375)

lamps, and of the

the

indicates top,

the

different

and

ends,

The photograph The colors used.

it.

sides

of

car should be painted the color of

rest

of

the

with

sides,

Paint

be painted vermilion.

and the edges

the

of

a

and strip

the arms, should inside

of

the

car

of the seat-arms tan color, to represent

leather upholstering.

the

brass,

exception

the

along the bottom and the edge of

off the

the front portion

With

black paint, or ink, stripe

door and trimmings upon the sides and top of

machine, as shown in

Figs.

375,

387,

and 388.

Blacken the brake and steering-wheel and the spokes

and rims

of the wheels.

Along the bottom

roughly indicate some machinery as

drawn in Fig. 387. When you have tired

of

each side

with black paint, about

it is

easily convert

it

into

of

your touring-car, you can

INDOOR PASTIMES

35 *

An Automobile Delivery Wagon, such as illustrated in To make this you will require the same Fig. 390. frame as that used for the touring-car, with the clock-

works and belt-wheels attached

you have made the

Fig. 390.

sides

from

its

touring-car,

— An

Automobile Delivery Wagon.

wooden frame, separating the cardboard

from the wood

carefully, so

together again

when you

this automobile,

you

manner

of

you can put the machine

wish.

If

you haven't made

will find the details

for the con-

and 377, and the performing the work described on pages 343

struction of the frame in

to 346.

same manner. If remove the cardboard

in the

Figs. 376

CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES

353

The Cardboard Sides are much easier to prepare than those for the touring-car, as they are straight and quire but

little

in Fig. 390,

The

cutting.

outline for these

is

re-

shown

surrounding the drawing of the completed

Lay out one

upon a piece of cardboard, using the dimensions given upon the drawing, and then place it upon a board and cut it out with your knife. Using this as a pattern, place it upon another piece of cardboard and run a pencil around its edges, thus wagon.

side

marking out the second piece, run

your knife a

side.

In cutting out the latter

little

inside of the line in order

caused by marking

to allow for the increase in size

it

Having prepared the two sides, draw panels upon them in some such form as shown in the illustration, separating them with three

out with the

lines.

first

Draw

a

cardboard

small

side.

window, with

top

its

slightly

arched, near the front edge of each side, and cut an

opening for

it

(see illustration).

Glue the sides

manner

to the

edges of the truck in the same

as those of the touring-car were done, piercing

holes for the

posts of

the

clockworks to

in,

fit

openings for the belt-wheels to project through, left

side.

the wagon,

Cut a piece of cardboard fit it between the sides, and

by gluing a number

of linen strips to

upon the inner or unexposed piece of cardboard for the

inches longer than

the

sides,

for the

back of in place

it

making to

in the

fasten

surfaces.

roof,

and

give

it

and the sides

Then it

it

cut

a

about two the

proper

INDOOR PASTIMES

354

projection over the front of the wagon.

manner

piece in position in the same

as

Fasten

this

you fastened

the back of the wagon.

Make

the floor and footboard for the

a piece of cardboard bent as fasten

it

shown

in

wagon out Fig. 390,

of

and

across the top edges of the projecting portions

Cut a strip for a seat, an inch and one-half above

of the sides with linen strips.

and

fit

it

between the sides

the floor.

The Wheels of an automobile wagon contain fourteen spokes, but as you have the pattern for the touring-car

wheels of twelve spokes, you can just as well use

it

in

making the wagon wheels. They should be mounted upon the sides of the wagon, a trifle above the bottoms of the spool wheels, as shown in the illustration, so they will not touch the carpet when the machine is operated. All Other Portions of the

wagon should be made

of

same patterns given for the touring-car, viz. the chauffeur (Figs. 384 and 385), the steering-wheel (Figs. 382 and 389), the brake (Fig. 375), and the lamps

the

(Fig. 381). will

As

the legs of the chauffeur will show,

it

be necessary to cut a pair out of cardboard (the

drawing shows the shape clearly enough to work by)

and fasten them

upon the

seat

to

his

and glue

body. his left

Fasten the chauffeur

hand

to the steering-

wheel, placing the latter in front of him, as the

drawing.

Stick

the lower end of the

shown

in

cardboard

CLOCKWORK AUTOMOBILES

355

upright of the steering-wheel upon a pin run through

Glue the upper

the

wagon

floor

end

of the

brake to the chauffeur's hand and the lower

end

to the side of the

Paint the

from the under

side.

wagon.

Wagon with water

making the

colors,

sides,

end, and roof olive green, the steering-wheel, brake, and

spokes of wheels black, and the lamps yellow or the color of brass.

In painting the sides show the battery

compartments upon them below what would properly be Leave the the bottom of the wagon (see illustration). cardboard white below this box, as tion

of

the machine, but

so far to conceal the

is

represents no por-

it

necessarily brought

wooden frame.

It

machine a more finished appearance if, you go over it with black paint and a

down

will give the

after painting, fine

brush and

stripe the panels upon the sides, following the lines

which you drew upon them with a

pencil.

Letter the

word " Delivery " upon the centre panel of each side, and the firm name in the small panel between the lamp and window. By attaching a set of clockworks in the same manner as described for the automobiles,

A

you can make

Clockwork Railway, constructing the cars similarly

to the street car

shown

in Fig. 363,

Chapter

XXV,

and

using the schemes in the same chapter for the tracks

and depots.

CHAPTER XXVII WORK TO DO WITH A

KNIFE

|H'L|li

A

number

of years

visit to a large

ago a friend

of the writer paid a

penitentiary where the prisoners were

engaged in the manufacture of boots and shoes.

Among

became particularly interested in a small German boy who was industriously marking the backs of boots with the lot numbers always to be found upon The boy didn't have an ink bottle near these goods. him, and yet, with what appeared to be a wooden stick, was marking the numbers in ink. A closer inspection the workers he

disclosed the fact that the pointed stick held by the lad

was nothing more or less than A Home-made Fountain Pen. Upon seeing that the visitor was struck with the novelty of the affair, the superintendent presented him with one of the pens and told him of its origin. The pen was the invention of a

—

who was placed in this department of the and when its good qualities were seen it was very

quickly

adopted by

pointed

forger

stick

and

all of the prisoners in place of the

ink-bottle they

The pen

is

shown

prison,

had been using.

in Fig. 391. 356

It

is

made out

of a

WORK TO DO WITH wood about

piece of elderberry glass vial,

and a piece

easily removed),

five

of sponge.

pith of the piece of elderberry

shown

A KNIFE

357

inches long, a small

push out the

First

wood

(this

you

will find

and then point one end pen-shape, as and

in the illustration,

Fig. 391.

—A

split

it

back from the point

Home-made Fountain Pen.

about an inch in the same manner as a writing pen

made.

Whittle the other end of the stick so

tightly in the

neck

reservoir, should

be

of

the glass

filled

This

vial.

it

will

is fit

bottle, or

with ink, and a small piece of

the sponge you have procured should be pushed into the hollow of the pen above the point (see illustration),

means of preventing the ink from flowing too freely upon the point. Although the pen was originally made with a coarse point for marking heavy figures, you will find that it can as a

c FlG. 392.

— The

Magic Pin-wheel.

be made to write to a reasonable degree of fineness by whittling a fine point

upon

it.

The Magic Pin-wheel represented by Fig. 392 can be made with a few minutes' work, and is something entirely

new

in the line of

magic

toys.

There are prob-

INDOOR PASTIMES

35«

who will understand this simple yet mysterious toy when they see it properly operated, until the secret is disclosed to them. As you will see by lookably few persons

ing at the drawing, the pin-wheel consists of nothing

more than a stick notched along one edge, and a thin piece of wood about an inch in length fastened through its centre to the end of the stick by means of a pin. In cutting the notches it is important to make them of the same length and depth. Locate the exact centre of the chip of wood before pivoting it to the end of the stick, and with your knife

make

small

hole

a for

the pin to run

through at point.

this

Be care-

ful to drive the

pin in straight.

To

Operate

the

pin-wheel,

hold

the

in the left Fig.

393— How

Fig. 393, it

and

to operate the Pin-wheel.

j

hand

Uustrated in

then, taking a coin in the right hand, rub

vigorously across the notches.

duced by rubbing the to revolve about

performance

ag

stick

is

its

the

The

vibration pro-

stick causes the small pin-wheel

pin axis. fact

that

The funny you can

part of the

have perfect

WORK TO DO WITH A KNIFE control over the wheel, and change its

course at

will,

359

the

direction

you but master one

if

of

trick

little

and second fingers of the right In holding the coin between the thumb and first hand. finger of the right hand, allow the end of the first finger to extend over the top of the stick and bring the second

performed with the

first

finger close to the side of (Fig.

393).

To make

right, allow the

end

it,

as

shown

in the illustration

the wheel revolve from

left

to

of the first finger to rub along the

top edge of the notches

;

then, to reverse the direction,

and press the second

relieve the pressure of this finger,

finger against the other edge of the notches.

At

first

you may not be able

your commands, but with a it

a simple matter to

make

it

make

to

the wheel obey

practice

little

change

its

you

will find

direction without

any one noticing how you perform the magical trick. A Brass Tack driven into the stick a little below the notches, about the point where the thumb of your left

hand

A

the pin-wheel.

thing it

add to the mystic appearance

will strike, will

when he

person invariably notices this the

sees you operate the wheel (you can

a point to press your

left

thumb

thinks he has solved the trick.

have the

toy,

he

will

wheel, and beg you to

A

"

will

have no

put him on

first

make

against the tack), and

But when you

soon find out that

and pulling upon the tack

of

all

let

him

his pressing

effect

upon the

" to the trick.

Wooden Chain and Rattle has long been one of the

most interesting pieces

of

work a boy can make with

his

INDOOR PASTIMES

360

inasmuch as the making of one requires good test of a boy's handy tool.

jack-knife, and,

careful cutting, the exercise is a skill

with this

In

making the

first

chain and

wood

use a pine block, as hard

is

rattle,

you had better

not so easy for a be-

J-

A

A

nn

f

im

Fig. 394.

Fig. 395.

Details of a

ginner to handle.

Fig. 396.

Wooden Chain and

Therefore, for a

Rattle.

first

attempt, select

a piece of sound pine free from blemishes, and plane

down

to the

dimensions,

inches wide, and two inches thick.

mark

off ten divisions

it

seventeen inches long, two

With

a lead-pencil

one inch apart, running the

lines

WORK TO DO WITH A KNIFE around the four sides of the block

draw two

lines lengthwise

361

Then

(see Fig. 394).

on each side

of the block, as

shown at AB and CD, making them one-half inch apart and three-quarters of an inch from each edge. With a chisel, cut

tenth

out the four corners of the block

line, as

The Chain link out of

down

represented by the shading in Fig. 394. is

be cut out of the remaining core, one

to

every two divisions.

Commencing

(Fig. 395), as those

would form only

notch out the shaded corners marked

draw

X in the

shown

links as

in

of

it.

drawing,

Having

links.

a circle inside of

and cut out the wood inside

then

half links;

and gradually cut the core into circular finished this operation,

at the

T and U

top of the block, remove the shaded portions

of the

to the

Round

each

link,

the edges

the drawing of the finished

chain (Fig. 396).

Your success

in

making a good chain

will

depend

upon a good, sharp knife and careful cutting. With a dull knife you are almost certain to split the links when separating one from another. largely

The Rattle block.

is

This part

than the chain.

JK

to be

made from

the lower portion of the

of the figure is

First

more

draw the two

difficult to

lines

marked

cut

HI

then in Fig. 394 one-half inch from the edges and draw the cross lines LM, NO, PQ, and PS, as shown These lines should be similarly in the illustration. ;

drawn upon the other three sides of the block. Remove the wood from the spaces shaded in the drawing, and

INDOOR PASTIMES

362

you

will

cut the

then have ball.

Gently round the corners of

gradually separate

When until it

this has

it is

this,

and then

from the surrounding framework.

it

been accomplished, the centre block

up and down.

slip

a centre solid block from which to

left

a perfect

small enough to

Now

round fall

will

continue cutting the block

ball,

but be careful not to

make

out of the frame, for that would

spoil the entire piece of work.

After completing the cutting, sand-paper the links

and the

rattle

until

wood or give

they are perfectly smooth. it

a coat of varnish.

Then

oil

CHAPTER XXVIII CORK TOYS

It

made

is

surprising the

number

of small toys that

can be

out of corks of different shapes and sizes with the

aid of glue, pins, burnt matches, worsted,

and cardboard.

Even though a boy has passed the kindergarten age, he will find this work entertaining for days when the and though he may not care to play with them himself, his work will not have been wasted, for a younger brother will surely be glad to have some cork animals and birds to add to his weather

is

disagreeable without

;

menagerie, and a sister no less delighted with a small log-cabin and set of cork furniture.

Flat and tapered corks can probably be found about

the house on old jars and bottles, while the variety can be procured at

the latter ask for No.

mon

9,

any drug-store.

straight

In buying

inch and one-half, straight, com-

corks, half a gross of

which

will cost

about twenty-

five cents.

Cork Animals are peculiar-looking beasts of abnormal proportions, but

all sorts

of magical feats are performed

by toy makers, and such wonders as 363

INDOOR PASTIMES

3*4

A

Pig that can boast of a body as large as that of an

commonly found among the so-called Noah's ark animals. To make a pig, first draw its head, as in elephant

is

the drawing of Fig. 397, upon a piece of cardboard,

and then,

after cutting

it

out, select a straight cork

and make a Fig. 397.

end

— The Pig.

of

it

in

the head.

slit

which

A

in

one

to stick

little

glue

applied to the cardboard will hold the head in place.

The

pig's feet consist of four pieces of

burnt matches

pointed at the ends and stuck into the cork as shown in Fig. 397, while the tail is

formed

of

a piece of at

one

into

the

copper wire curled

end and stuck

When

cork.

the pig has

been made, paint

and

A

feet to

match

its its

head body.

Horse requires a cork

of the

same shape

as that

Cut the cardboard and

used for the pig.

head out glue

it

of

in a slit

made

Fig. 398.

the end of the cork (see Fig. 398). four burnt matches in glue and stick for legs,

— The Horse.

in

Dip the ends of them in the cork

and fasten a few pieces of worsted

in a hole

CORK TOYS made

in the

end of the cork

for the

3 tracks for, 334 ; operation cf, 340; cars for, 334;

for,

station for, 341

a

;

clockwork,

355.

Rain, how to imitate, 330. Reel, a clothes-line, 48.

I

39i

z t-^.

nse of cross-cut, 21

:.-'r:e-:e rip-, 21

and

-

21

::".

.

3:2;

316; a block320; an inte-

,319,321;

trees, 31 z

:

:

properties,

ry,

::

r .2

for,

wings, 317,

31S

7,

rustic

;

like. 320.

and mechanical

ef-

fects, 311.

the, 270.

Scoring of points in archery, 235. r, a snow, 170.

Rip-saw, use of the, 21.

Roar of cannon, how to imitate, Rocks for seashore scene, 315.

330.

Screw, iron and

wooden bench-,

Rollers, the proper care of printing, 140.

Screw-driver, a desirable, 36.

Roman Roman

Screws, forms

candles, firing, from kit

5,

277.

Roof, the gambrel, 79 ; the gable, 92, tar-paper for back-yai 101 house, 181 ; leg-cabin, 191 ; covering of cabin, 192. Room, suggestions for a boy"s, 57 able furnishings for a boy's. 5 j.

316.

2.

a window-, 65 ; canvas canoe, 216.

Seat,

I

;

~v::-

:".

back-yard

2

t

5«

of, 36.

Seashore scene,

circus, the, 255.

rustic,

198,

199;

:ir:us, 25-.

-.2-class matter. 152. ;

final, 2

suit-

Rope, the disappearing, 290.

Settee, a miniature rr.issltn, 114. -1-2:7 -"

r e

:

'-'•

1

Shelves, workshop, iS Rope bar for jump standards, 251. Ruby lantern for dark-room, a home- Shingle arrows, 232.

;

bock-, 67.

Shingles for log-cabin, 192. Shooting in archery, position

made, 163. Ruby-light,

frames

312;

drops, 316, 320;

ridges. 32:

41.

field,

for,

,

;

:'.

a mid-ocean, JI53

a street,

,322, material

of, 22.

ening

1

sir.

;

Scene, an :;ean. 313; a seashore, 316; a

':

24.

proper manner

e

t

h.-fr.

Ridge boards, 192, Ridge pieces for canvas canoe, 211. Ring for a back-yard circus, 256. Ring master, costume for, 26S ; duties of

:

and the :ompass-

gig-, 24.

Sawing,

Reenforcing runners cf sled, 299. Ribbands for canvas canoe, 208.

rip-, ;:

:::ss-:ut

.:'

the ha:k-,

;

::'

use

;

t-etr.

:r.

a, 162.

Rule, a composing, 134.

Runners for sled, 298 ; reenforcing, 299. Running track, a, 253. Running water for dark-room, 156.

for,

239.

Shooting-stick, a printer's, 137. 5h :tirg-tcrch, 2. 2:

Shot-gun,

a,

234.

Shovel, a snow, 171.

Rustic bridges for miniature theatre, 320.

Side-board, a miniature mission, 115.

Rustic seats, 19S, 199.

Side sh. w, the dress, 200.

Sieve trap, the, 22u. Sifter for ashes, 53.

Signs, advertising, for circus, 271.

Sink for dark-room, 1 5 S. Slapper, the down's, 269.

Sail-boats, toy cork, 367.

Sand-paper block, a, Sash for workshop, 4

12. :

for

back-yard club-

house, 1S2; for log-cabin, 194.

Sled, a for,

home-made, 296; 29S

;

iron

reenforcing runners

runners of,

299.

INDEX

392

Tar-paper for club-house roof, 181. Teepee, a paper, 328. Tent for back-yard circus, 257 ; decorat-

Sling, an elastic, 234.

Smith, collection of Mr. E. H., 142. Smoothing-plane, use of the, 25.

ing. 257. Tents, paper, 328=

Snare, a rabbit, 225.

Snow Snow Snow

plough,

a, 169.

scraper, a,

1

Testing work, ways of, 28. Theatre, a miniature, 303;

70.

shovel, a, 171.

Soldiers

miniature

for

standards

for, 324,

theatre,

325

324;

jointed, 325.

;

Specimens of amateur papers, 143, 146, 147, 148, 149, and group opposite 142. a,

Stable,

method of

how

;

drama Ticket

251.

for,

office,

Tickets for

Spring-catch, see Catch. Sprints,

;

Thunder, how

Spotlights, 309.

Spring-board,

framework 303 the gridiron, 305 ; the stage setting floor, 305 ; drop-curtain, 306 up, 310; tickets for, 310; a war for,

to imitate, 330.

257. circus,

256

for

;

miniature

theatre, 310.

starting, 254.

painting the,

to build a, 100;

324.

new

Tick-tack, a

style of, 284;

a clock-

work, 286.

104.

Stage, construction of, see Theatre. Stairways, doll-house, 76, 98.

Toboggan-slide, a back-yard, 291 ; location of, 291; length of, 293; material for,

Stall partitions for stable, 102.

295Toe-nailing, 33. Tool-cabinet, a, 14 ; for special tools, 16. list from which Tools, purchasing of, 13 to select, 14 ; proper handling of, 20 ;

Standards, a pair of jump, 249. Stanley plane, the, 25. Station for toy railway, 341.

Steel-square, rack

work with

;

16;

for,

laying

out

lending, 20

the, 42.

Steps, front, 78 ; rear, 79. Stern piece for canvas canoe, 204. Stick, composing-, 134; the shooting-, 137.

Stops, bench-, 7.

;

sharpening, 37.

Torch, a shooting-, 279. Touring-car, a clockwork automobile, 343; frame for, 344 ; belt for, 346 ; testing the machine, 346 ; cardboard sides of,

Stropping, 41.

wheels for, 349 ; mud-guards for, lamps for, 349 steering-wheel brake for, 350 ; chauffeur for, 350 for, 350; painting, 351. Towel-rack, a, 70.

Studs, fishing, 178; placing of, for club-

Toy

Street car, a, 336. Street scene, a, 320.

Strop,

how

make

to

a,

12

;

how

to use a,

41.

house, 179. Supplies, receptacles for workshop, 18; cabinet for dark-room, 161.

Swivel for punching-bag,

a,

249.

Table, a miniature mission, 114; another design of, 115; a camp-, 199.

dark-room, 156. Target, a barrel-hoop, 234; a simpler,

Tank, water, 235-

for

348

;

349

;

;

;

guns, targets, and

bows and arrows,

229.

Toy

railway,

making

a, see

Railway.

Toys, cork, 363. Track, a running, 253. Tracks for toy railway, 334. Trains, cardboard, 329.

Trap, the figure-four, 219 ; the box, 221 ; the dead fall, 222 ; the sieve, 224 the ;

coop, 224 ; a rabbit snare, twitch-up, 226. Traps, home-made, 218.

225

;

a

INDEX Trebuchets, ancient, 229. Trees, 317, 318 ; standards

boughs

for,

317

;

pine

319.

Trimmings, of doll-house, outside, 84 stable, 104. terior, 89

;

in-

for, 158.

;

Trolley-line for toy railway, 331.

work with the, 28 work with the, 42 a mitred-

Try-square, testing

;

;

handle, 45.

Tumbling-mat,

a,

Washing-box, a, 158 ; rack of, 159 box of, 160; how to use the, 161. Wash-stand, a doll's, 121. Waste and oily rags, care of, 19, 141. Water, running, for dark-room, 156; filter ;

for,

Tried-edge, the, 28.

laying out

393

Water-tank for dark-room, 156. Waves for ocean scene, 314. Weapons, ancient, 229. Whetstone, selection of, 40 ; the Washita, 40.

245.

Turnstile, a, 259 ; lock for, 259. Twitch-up, a, 226.

Whetting, the proper way of, 41. Wicks, book by Mr. W. S., 188.

Tympan,

Wild horse, the circus, 265. Wild man of Borneo, the, 265, 266. Wind, how to imitate, 330.

the printing-press, 138.

Tympan-sheets, 138. composition of, Type, selection of, 1 29 134; pieing, 135; distribution of, washing, 140. 137 Type-cases, upper and lower, 129 ; scheme ;

;

for laying, 129

rack

;

the

Yankee

job, 130

for, 131.

Typesetting, 134.

Window,

workshop, 4

for

Windows, doll-house, glass for, 82

;

glass for,

;

84

Wings

U

for

Work,

;

log-cabin,

;

a, 65.

a,

theatre, 317, 318,

169;

contracting

169. nails, 33.

chain and

rattle,

359.

laying out, 42.

Work to do with a knife, 356. Work-bench, a solid, 4. Workshop, a boy's, 3 ; location

Vaulting, pole for, 251.

make

;

stable, 103

miniature

work for, Withdrawing

Wooden

to

back-yard

dormer, 80; 80, 92 casement, 82 divided

319. 321. Winter enterprise,

Underlaying a form, 138. Utensils for camping, 1.99.

how

for

190, 194.

Window-seat,

Vise,

;

club-house, 182.

a, 5.

of,

4

;

clothes for, 18.

Work-table

W Wagons, cardboard, 329. Walls, doll-house, 74, 79, 92 104; club-house, 181.

Wardrobe, a cigar-box, 125.

for

dark-room, 155.

Writing-desk, how to make a, 59 ; another style of, 62 ; finishing of, 61. ;

stable, 101,

Yankee

job-case, the, 130.