Volumes 74 to 92 1968 to 1987
October 30, 2017 | Author: Anonymous | Category: N/A
Short Description
Abominable Snowman: investigation, 80 .. Mont Cenis, 83262. Bellows, Grace: her book: A Genius ......
Description
Volumes 74 to 92
INDEX
The Alpine Journal 1969-87
Compiled by J .R. Murray
The Alpine Club, 74 South Audley Street, London Wl Y 5FF
ISBN 0 900523 56 5
Printed by Titus Wilson & Son Ltd., Kendal, Cumbria.
Foreword This index has been compiled on the same basis as the previous volume. The only illustrations that have been indexed are, in general, those of single mountains or ranges which are likely to be helpful or of interest. Now that there are more articles about the Greater Ranges than the Alps, the Special Districts section in this index has been expanded to include Alpine articles. I am grateful to Mr W.L. 'Robin' Robinson for his practical help and very useful advice in compiling this index, and to Sheila Harrison for her work on the typescript and for coping with my hand-writing. The following abbreviations have been used : art. = article Aig. = Aiguille asc. = ascent C.A.F. = Club Alpin Francais c.A.1. = Club Alpin Italiano ed. = editor exped(s) = expedition(s) Ln. = footnote ill. = illustration I.M.F. = Indian Mountaineering Federation
M.E.F. = Mount Everest Foundation Mt = Mount, Mont Mte = Monte obit. = obituary port. = portrait Pt = Point Pta = Punta Pte = Pointe U.I.A.A. = Union International des Associations d' Alpinisme
John Murray
GENERAL
ABALAKOV, V.M.: obit. 92289 Abi Gamin: 4th asc., 75 195 Abominable Snowman: investigation, 80 101-4 notes, 80 285; 85 247 Abraham, A.P. & G.D.: their careers, art. 79 55 note on, 80284 Access problems: in Britain, 83256 in USA, 83 257 Accidents: statistics, 74 145 and equipment, 74307-8 and rescue, 75 265 Alpine 1968, 75 265 Alpine 1969, 75 137 Survey of British 1959-68, 75 265; 87234
IMF concern about Himalayan, 87234
Annapurna, 7632; 79 255; 84231; 85223-4
Atrak Zorn South, 74 197 Bethartoli Himal, 76 226 Blanc, Mt (1870), 76287 Blanc, Mt, Massif, 76 193 Broad Peak, 82 132-3 Buchaille Etive, 76 337-8 Chomolhari, 76223 Cook, Mt, 78 244 Dhaulagiri, 75 197 Dhaulagiri IV, 75 196; 79 255; 80264
Eiger Nordwand, 74 67 Everest, Mt, 80266; 81 13; 82 30, 34; 85223
Everest, Mt, NE ridge, 88 262-5 Fitzroy, 79 259 Frundenhorn, 75 142 Grand Capucin, 76 193 Grandes Jorasses, Walker Spur, 75139 K2, 92215-7
Kenya, Mt, 76 208 Khinyang Chhish, 7724 Koh-i-Bandaka, 74 196 Lamtrang Lirung, 84 232 Malubiting, 74 224; 76 189 Manaslu, 79 18-20; 80 99 Manaslu E face, 78241 Matterhorn, 74 67 Nanda Khat, 76 227 Nanga Parbat, 76 221 Peak 29, 76229 Picos de Norte, Cordillera Real, 78204
Shispare, 80225
INDEX
3
Accidents: Transalai Pamir, 80 263 Tukucha West, 76229 Unnamed (Himachal Pradesh), 74226
Vancouver, Mt, 74242 Aconcagua: new route on, 84241 guidebook, 88 244 asc. of S face, 89 159 ill. 89 following 160 Acute mountain sickness: pulmonary & cerebral oedema, art. 81 217; 89 68 see also Oedema Adam Smith, G.: early Alpine Club member, 87 142 Adam Smith, J.: 'A family century in the Alpine Club', 87 142 Adams, M: 'Northern Andean Butterflies Search and Research', 89 90 Adcock, D.: 'Yerupaja traverse: the NZ expedition', 747 Adesfjell: 1st asc. by SE cracks, 76 191 Adiabatic Lapse Rate: 81 82 Aerosols: effect on atmosphere, 84247 Africa: see also Atlas, Ethiopia, Hoggar, Kenya, Kilimanjaro, Niger, Rhodesia, Ruwenzori, Uganda East: triennial report 1971-3, 79225
notes: 1975, 81 236 1979, 85220 1976, 82235 1980, 86223 1978, 84223 North: triennial report 1971-3, 79226
South: triennial report 1971-3, 79219
notes: 1968, 74182
1981, 87219 1969,7571,150 1982, 88203 1972, 78234 1983, 89228 1974, 80261 1984, 90240 1975, 81236 1985, 91 223 1978, 84223 1986, 92233 1980, 86221 events & trends 1974-6, 82 227 climbing scene, art. 85 182; 87 109 Table Mountain, history of, 83 120 guidebook to Mulanje Massif, 85221
guidebook to Atlas Mts, 86 224
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
4
Agner, Mte: 1st British asc. of N face, art. 74 36 by N ridge, 75 146 Agnew of Lochnaw Yr., Sir C.H., Bt.: 'Elephant Island', 77 204 'Crossing the Hielo Patagonico del Norte', 7943 'Soldiers on Api', 86 167 Agnolotti, G.: his book: (with G. Pettigiani) Cordigliera tra cielo e ghiaccio, 86 255 Agresti, H.: 'Winter Climbing in the Mont Blanc Massif', 77 197 (with I. Agresti) 'In the heart of the Sahara: the Hoggar', 79 103 Agresti, I.: 'El Gran Trono Blanco', 82 99 Ahluwalia, Major H.P.S.: his books: Higher than Everest. Memoirs of a Mountaineer, 84262 Faces of Everest, 85253 Aiguille du Midi: by SE face, 89 126 Aiguille Verte: Cordier Couloir, 1st asc., 81 223 Ainley, R.: obit. 79279 Aioui: 1st ascs. on, 75 148 Alam Kuh: 1st asc. by central pillar of N face, 75 158 Alaska: notes & new climbs: 74240-4 83241 75206 84234 76239 85226 77 250 86229 78247 88207 80268 89221 81243 91215 82242 92223 triennial report 1972-74, 80 235 climbing history, art. 81 19; 83 23; 84 64
mountains listed, 81 33; map 81 20 ill. 81 between 24 & 25 ill. 83 between 24 & 25 Juneau ice-field, art. 92 192 Hunter's S ridge, art. 92 10 Alberta, Mt: 1st asc. by N face, 78 247 Albigna, Pta d': asc., 78 133 Albigna Valley: climbing from, art. 84 183 Alburni range: climbs in, 78 131 Alcock, D.: his book: (with K. Wilson & J. Barry) Cold Climbs, 89 244
Algeria: Djurdjura mountains, note, 77243 Algie, Sir R.M.: obit. 85 259 Ali Ratni Tibba: 1st asc., 75 9 by S face, 78 42 local name of, 7843 4th asc., 79 22, 27 Allalinjoch: crossed, 74 89 Allan, I.: 'The ice desert of Kilimanjaro', 82171 his book (editor): Guide to Mt Kenya and Kilimanjaro, 88241 Allen, c.: his book: A Mountain in Tibet, 89 248 Allen, J.: 'Attempt on Nampa 6755m', 77126 Allen, R.: 'Through the Ice Window to Nelion', 91 116 Allievi cirque: climbs in, 75 48, 144 Allsup, W.: obit. 75331 Alpamayo: asc., 74 248 by E ridge, 75211 height determined, 75 212 Alpine Climbing Group: proceedings: 74 352; 75284; 76290; 78 264; 89279 Alpine Club: Alpine Climbing Group, union with, 78264 Annapurna Trek 1981, 87 186 Avalanche symposium, 85241, 242 archives, guide to, 78 71; 91 293 exhibition of photographs, 89 277, 278 exhibition of watercolours, 85 243 Garhwal meet 1986, 92 85 guidebooks, 74 355; 75 288 joint meeting with R.G.S., 85241 Karakoram meet 1985, 91 53 Karakoram symposium 1986, 92317 Honorary members, 75 283; 76 289; 88 289; 89 281 honours & awards, 75 283; 76 289 Alpine Journal: a check list, 86248-9 new form of, 74351, 75287 editorial staff, 75 283 editors: 1863-95, 79 166; 18961926, 80120 review of vols 18-38, 80 125-7 corrections to, 86244; 89281
GENERAL INDEX
Alpine Club: Library, re-organisation & cataloguing, 74 356; 82255; 83 255; 84252; 88 285; 89279; 90 298; 92 318 children's books, 91 145 Himalayan Index, 92 318 management of Alpine Club, 83254 membership anniversaries, 77271; 79271 membership rules, 80 283 membership survey, 91 291 merger with Ladies Alpine Club, 81257 obituaries: 84265 74353,391 85259 75285,331 76291, 323 86262 87261 77272,287 78264, 281 88255 79270, 279 89258 90279 80282, 295 91264 81257,267 82255,265 92280 83254,266 meetings & meets: 74351 84259 75283 85241 76289 86243 77271 87231 78263 88297 79270 89277 80282 90297 81256 91291 82254 92316 83253 role of, 74353; 75285 treasures, rare books & pictures, 88 111; ill. 88 112-3 Valedictory addresses by Presidents: Evans, 767; Cox, 79 1; Longland, 82 3; Lloyd, 853; Jones, 889; Chorley, 919 Alps: notes & new climbs: 74172 84220 75136 85217 76192 86219 77235 87207 78228 88 185, 217 79253 89230 80256 90251 81234 91231 82233 92244 83233 road & resort building, 77 273-5
5
Alps: geology of, 80 56~61 events & trends 1975-7, art. 84211 a high level mountaineering route, art. 87 41 picture book: Les Alpes, Coeur de l'Europe, 88 243 'The inexhaustible', art. 89 121 report of 25th International Congress, book: Les Alpes, 90263 'The Big Triple Tick' (Nordwands), 92 165 'Climbing in the Swiss Alps in 1983',92176 see also Special Districts pr. 63-65. Alpine ice routes: re-appralsal of grades of, 87 207 Altai: climbing in, art. with map & photos, 9047 Altimeters: use of, 84246 Altitude: history of, art. 8690 medical problems of high, art. 78153 Alto de los Leones: by new routes, 76247 Ament, P.: his book: Master of Rock, 86 258 America, North: see North America America, South: see South America Amstutz, W.: 'A visit to the Ishinca Valley, Cordillera Blanca 1968',7439 'Turner - Promethean of Alpine Painting', 84 31 Amy, B.: his book (editor): Technique de l'Alpinisme, 83264 Anderson, J.R.L.: his books: The Ulysses Factor, 76 305 High Mountains and Cold Seas, 86251 Anderson, R.A.L.: 'Avalanche on Sisne - 1977', 83 73 Andes: notes & new climbs: 76241; 77 252; 78252; 90 237 M.E.F. notes, 92 239 triennial report 1971-3, 79228 events & trends 1974-6, 82 219 legends of the high, art. 88 85 expeditions, arts., 89 161; 92 20, 27, 37, 43, 67 'Andes adventure', art. 90 184, ill. 90 between 184 & 185 travel book: Adventuring in the Andes, 91 252
6
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Andes: early British ascs. in, 92 61 see also South America, Bolivia, Peru, Cordilleras Blanca & Real, Ecuador & arts. by Echevarria, E. see also Special Districts p. 66. Andorra: circuit of, art. 83 160 map & note on wild life, 84 254 Andrasko, K.: (with T. Moore) 'Shining mountains, nameless valleys: Alaska & the Yukon', PU 81 19; Pt.I1 83 23; PUll 84 64 Andrews, A.W.: pioneer of coasteering, 83 194 Andrews, P.: obit. 76323 Aneto, Pic d': 1st asc., 84 24 Ang Kami: death, 76226 Angelini, G.: his book: Civetta per Ie vie del Passato, 84 263 d'Angeville, Henriette: pioneer woman climber, 81 91-2 Anhalzer, J.: his book: (with R. Navarette) Por los Andes del Ecuador, 90 273 Annapurna Massif: All: 2nd asc., 75 198 3rd asc., 79 255 AIV: ascs., 75 198; 76229 S face climbed, 82 239 winter asc., 88 178 AI: 1st asc. by S face, 76 19 2nd asc. by N face, 76 89 radio on, 76 274 attempts, 79 255 asc., 85223 book of 1981 Swedish expedition, 88244 AlII: 2nd asc., 76229 A. South (Modi Peak): attempts, 77 249; 78 242 Ansilta, Cordillera de: 1st asc. of Pico Fantin, 76249 Anson, Sir Wilfrid: obit. 80299 Antarctica: notes, 74 239; 76 251; 80271; 82245; 88210; 89220 exploration of, art. with map & photos, 89 97 triennial report 1970-2, 78217-9 list of highest mountains, 86 235 Joint Services expedition to Brabant Island, art. 91 139 M.E.F. notes, 92 239 Anthoine, J.V.: 'El Toro', 76 143 'Trango Tower', 81 45 'Trango Conclusion', 82 184
74-92
Anthoine, J.V.: 'Trango Conclusion', 82 184 'The British Ogre Expedition', 833 Apennines, Central: climbing, art. with map & photos, 78 121 Api: attempt, 77248; 86 170 Apollo missions: effects in mountaineering, 75 281 photos from, art. 75 66-68 Apolobamba, Cordillera: German expedition to, 74271 Spanish expedition to, 75220 Apuan Alps: climbs in, 78 129 Ararat, Mt: climbing on, art. 89 145 Archer, C.H.: pioneer of coasteering, 83 194 Argentiere, Aig. d': by N face in winter, 75 141 Argentina: notes & new climbs: 74273 82224 75223 84241 76248 85231 77253 86234 78251 87226 79258 88209 81249 90238 events & trends 1974-6, 82 224 triennial report 1971-3, 79233 Arhueicocha: 1st asc., 75 212 Aris, M.: his book: Views of Mediaeval Bhutan, 89 238 Arnao, C.M.: his books: Andinismo en la Cordillera Blanca, 75 307 Huascaran Climbing Guide, 87259 Arning, Dorothy: obit. 89 264 Arolla: 50 years ago, 86 188 Arolla, Pigne d': asc. on ski, 74 89 Arora, D.C.: death, 76227 Arrowsmith Range (NZ): 1st traverse, 74 238 Artesonraju: 1st asc. by S face, 75 211 Arzani, c.: his book: I Rifugio del Club Alpino Italiano, 84263 Asami, M.: (with M. Hara) 'Makalu - first ascent by SE ridge', 76 35 Ascotan: Indian relics found on, 84 241 Asgard, Mt: by new route, 7885, ill. 78 86, 88 Ash, J.: his book: (with L. Turner) The Golden Hordes, 82 261 Ashburner, J.: 'The first ascent of Mukar Beh', 7458
GENERAL I.: his book: A Choice of Catastrophes, 87 258
Asimov,
Asp-e-Safed: A-e-S. I: 2nd asc., 75 172 3rd asc., 78 184 A-e-S. II: 1st asc., 75 172 A-e-S. SOuth: 1st & 2nd ascs. & 1st by N an~te, 75 172 A-e-S. III: 1st asc., 76 215 Aspiazu, J.M.: his book: Alpinismo
espanol en el mundo, 87253
Astronomy: from mountain
89173
observatories,
Ata-Ullah, Col. M.: obit. 84265 Atlas Mts.: ascs. in, 75 148; 76 204; 84 223 notes on a spring trip, 82 235 mountaineering in winter, art.
88206
notes, 79 226-7 Atmospheric studies at Jungfraujoch:
76133
Atrak Zorn South: 1st asc., 74 197 Audoubert, L.: his book: Peuterey
Fantastique Integrale, 81263 J.: his book: Narrative of an ascent to the summit of Mt Blanc on 8th and 9th of August, 1827, 83264
Auldjo,
Ausangate: 1st asc. by NE ridge, 75 219 Ausher (Owir I): 1st asc., 75 80 Australia: notes:
74236 75202 76233 77219 78244 79256
80268 81243 82241 84233 85225 86228
7
Badile, Piz: solo asc. of Cassin route on NE face, 75 143 asc. by a septuagenarian, art.
7748
Baffin Island: ascs. in, 77 257 expedition to & asc. of Mt Asgard's N peak by new route, art. 78 85 expedition to Cumberland peninsula, 79 261 Bagani Glacier: attempt on Pt. 23,080ft. from, 74229 Bagani Pass: crossed, 74 229 Bahuguna, H.: death, 77 16 Baihali Jot: 1st asc., 75 40 Bahuguna Peak, 1st asc., 7925,27 Bailey, A.: his book: Lakeland
Rock, 91261
Baj Gaz Pass: search for, 76 163 Bala, M.: 'Skhawr 1975', 82 210 Balaltous, Mt: routes on, 80 135-6 Balakun: 1st asc., 79 255 Balcombe, G.: 'Great Gable to Wookey Hole', 83 168 Baldwin, Miriam: 'Over the Kangla Jot', 88 165 'The Biancograt', 89 138 'Margherita Guinea Pig', 91 126 Ball's Pyramid: 2nd & 3rd ascs., 76 238; 77 220 1st traverse, 79 256 Ballantine, A.: his book: (with J. Blashford-Snell) Expeditions the
Expert's Way, 83262
Ballard, J.: his book: (with E. Marshall) Rock Climbs in the Peak.
Vol. 5: the Derwent Valley, 87258
Western, mountains of, art. 7928 climbing in, art. 91 133 Austria: effects of tourism, 85 240 Auto-belayer: note on, with diagrams, 76 280 Auvergne, the: description of & climbs in, 77 190 Avalanches: on Ben Nevis 86 246; in Lake District 86 246 Aveyron Gorge: description of,
82147
Avon Gorge: early artificial climbing,
INDEX
83 174
BADILE, Piz: 1st asc. by NE face direttissima, art. 74 1
Balloon, hot air: 1st crossing of the Alps by, 79 162 Baltoro Kangri: climbed & ski descentfrom summit, 86 200 Balzetto, Piz (Bregaglia): climbed by octogenarian, 82 198 Bandar Punch (Black Peak): asc., 74228 Banks, M.: 'The Uttermost North', 79 174 his books: Greenland, 81265
Mountaineering for Beginners, 83263
Bara Bangahal: expedition Barbier, c.: obit. 83266
to, 78 179
8
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Barker, R.: his books: One Man's Jungle, 81266 The Last Blue Mountain, 85252 Barley, R.: 'Some new routes in South Africa', 75 71 'Practice Crags in Scandinavia, 78119 Barnaj: 1977 attempt, 84 87 Barnes, M.E.: obit. 90288 Barometer: as altimeter, 86 92 Baroni, Pta: 1st asc. by E face, 74 178 by new route on E face, 7550 Barratt, G.: obit. 89263 Barrett, N.: 'Reflections on a First Trip to the Himalaya', 90 84 'The Lama and the Laser - Two Years in Bhutan', 91 90 Barry, J.: 'Come on lads - its no worse than the Midi-Plan', 8639 'Cold Climbing in Cymru', 89 165 his books: The Great Climbing Adventure, 91 249 (with K. Wilson & D. Alcock) Cold Climbs, 89 244 Barry, R.G.: his book: (editor with J.D. Ives) Arctic & Alpine Environments, 82262 Bartle, J.: his book: Trails of the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash of Peru, 90 266 'Huascanin National Park', 91 252 Bartlett, P.: (compiler) 'Climbs and Expeditions', 87 207 'Area Notes 1982', 88 183 Barton, R.: 'Lauterbrunnen Breithorn - North face', 79 71 'Bhagirathi III', 88 49 Baruntse: asc., 90 91 Baryla, J.: (with M. Brniak) 'The Mountains of Mongolia', 86 103 Bates, R.: his book: (with C. Houston) K2 the Savage Mountain, 85 252 Batin Peak: 1st asc. of N summit, 74 194 Battimelli, G.: 'Sea cliff climbing at Gaeta', 84 139 Battrick, Elisabeth: her book: A Lakeland Summer, 86259 Baudha: ascs., 76 229; 77 249 Baume, L.: his book: Sivalaya. The 8000 metre peaks of the Himalaya, 84 258 'The Picos de Europa', 86 171
74-92
Bazel, Pte de: new routes on, 76 194 Bean, P.: 'The North of England Himalayan expedition 1975', 8283 'East Kulu 1977', 83 149 Beard, E.: obit. & port., 75 339 Beaumont, Sir J.: seventy years' membership of Alpine Club, 77271 Beckey, F.: his book: Mountains of North America, 89 247 Beechey, c.: 'A day on the North ridge of the Peigne', 82 186 'Mont Blanc again after 28 years', 8517 Beechey Island, Antarctica: 89 108 Beer, Dora H. de: 'A Mountain in China', 90 35 obit. & port., 88 257 Beer, Sir G.R. de: obit. 78282 Belaying: on snow, the use of the 'deadman', 74 327-31 Beldin, D.: guidebooks to Verdon, 90 273 Bell, Gertrude: climbing career, 82 103-4 Bell, Rev. J.A.H.: 'A Winter Diary 1925-26', 8837 poems, 89 112 obit. 88256 Bellet, J.: his book: Le Col du Mont Cenis, 83262 Bellows, Grace: her book: A Genius for Friendship, 89 248 Bennet, D.: his book: Scottish Mountain Climbs, 85256 Bennet, G.: his book: Beyond Endurance, 89 241 Bennett, M.: 'The Association of British Members of the Swiss Alpine Club - the first 75 years', 89179 Ben Nevis: winter climbing, art. 80 185 observatory, history of, 90 267 Benuzzi, F.: his book: Mattia Zurbriggen, 89 250 Berardini, L.: his book: (with R. Paragot) Vingt Ans de Cordee, 80 290 Bere, R.: 'Mammals of the East African Mountains', 79 179 'Is there an Abominable Snowman', 80101
GENERAL INDEX
Beresford, A.B.: his book: 55-60 Years of Mountaineering in South Africa, 86256 Bergfiihrergipfel (Nepal Himalaya): 1st asc., 7917 Bergseeschijen: by E wall pillar, 76 200 Bernina: ski mountaineering in, art. 78 139 Berruex, M.: his book: (with M. Parmenter) Les Grands Raids a Ski, 90274 Berry, G.: his book: A Tale of Two Lakes, 89248 Bersezio, L.: his book: (with P. Tirone) Mont Blanc, 90 266 Bethartoli Himal: attempt, 76 225 1st asc., 83 239 Bethartoli South: 2nd & 3rd ascs., 76 226 Bettembourg, G.: his book: (with M. Brame) The White Death, 90276 Bezruchka, S.: his book: A Guide to Trekking in Nepal, 87256; 91 259 Bhagirathi peaks: BII ascended, 74228 BIV 1st asc., 78 240 BIll climbed by SW pillar, art. 8854 ill. 88 preceding 49 BI 1st asc. of W ridge, 89 189 Bhutan: exploring peaks of NW, art. 83183 mountaineering in, 90 10-14; arts. 90 21; 91 90, 94; map, 90 12-13 see also Special Districts p. 73 Bickel, L.: his book: This Accursed Land, 84 260 Bicknell, P.: 'The picturesque, the sublime and the beautiful', 8533 'Treasures of the Alpine Club, Rare Books & Pictures', 88 111 his books: Beauty, Horror and Immensity, 87 258 (editor) The Illustrated Wordsworth's Guide to the Lakes, 90 268 (with C. Warren) 'Homage to J.M.W. Turner', 91161 Biner, B.: unveiling of plaque to, 92175
9
Bingham, J.S.M.: obit. 90 280; 91 266 Biology: see Science notes Birtles, G.: 'Events and Trends 1974-7 British Isles', 83 227 Biven, P.: obit. & port., 82266 Bivouac tents: description, 85 237 Bjl'lrnstad, E.: 'Sandstone towers of the American South West desert', 8410 Black Forest: climbing in, art. 84 142 Blackburn, Mt: climbed, 81 30; ill. 81 31 Blackshaw, A.: retiring as Editor of Alpine Journal, 75 283 his book: Mountaineering, 76 311 'Scandinavian Ski traverse 1973-7', 8391 Blaitiere, Aig. de: ski descent, 74349 Blakeney, T. S.: retires as Assistant Editor of Alpine Journal & becomes Honorary member, 75283 'The roof of the world from Apollo 7', 75 65 'The first steps towards Mount Everest', 76 43 'The Alpine Journal and its Editors', 79 166, 80 120, 81 153 obit. 83267 Blanc, Mt: by Sentinelle Rouge, 74 172 new climbs & notes, 76 192; 77 237; 78 228 ski descent of N face, art. 77 136 winter climbing in Massif of, art. 77197 1st solo asc. of entire Peuterey arete, 78 229 1st asc. by Brouillard glacier & upper Peuterey ridge in 1877, 82215 bicentenary, art. with ills. 91 150 Alpine Club delegation to bicentenary, 92 316 book: Savage Snows, 92260 rock climbing guide to, 92277 Blanc du Tacul, Mt: by Gervasutti pillar, 74173 ski descent of Gervasutti couloir, 74349 solo asc. by Gervasutti pillar, 75 138; 76 193 winter asc., 78 10
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
10
Blanca, Cordillera: ascs. in, 74247; 76241; 77252 ascs. of Huandoy & Chopicalqui, 82167, 168 1st ascs. in, 83 243-5 topography & mountaineering in, art. 85200 climbing in, art. with photos, 90184
monographs on mountaineering in, 92271
Blanchard, S.: his book: Walking Up and Down in the World, 92269 Blandy, Mrs E.: death, 75341 Blashford-Snell, J.: his book: (with A. Ballantine) Expeditions the Experts' Way, 83262 Bleaklow: moorland marathon walks, 8071-82 Bledisloe, Viscount (B.L. Bathurst): obit. 85259 Bliimlisalphorn: by N face direct, 76 198 asc. by 12 year old, 79 205 Blyth, R.G.: 'A Heinous Crime', 90 198 Board game: 'Assault on Mt Everest', 86257 Boardman, P.: 'Hindu Kush - Alpine Style', 79111
(with R. Richards) 'British Everest Expedition SW face 1975', 81 3 his books: The Shining Mountain, 84258
Sacred Summits, 88 228 loss of, 88 263 obit. & port., 88 266 Boehm, W.D.: his book: Glacier Bay, 82 261 Boeing Ledge: Central Tower of Paine, 80 11-15 Bogner, N.: his novel: Snowman, 88242 Bohemia: climbing areas, 82 74 Bojohagar: attempt on, art. 90 77 Bolivia: notes, 74 271; 80 270; 84 239; 85 229; 89227 triennial report 1971-3, 79232 events & trends 1974-76, 82223 Bonatti, W.: his books: The Great Days, 80289 On the Heights, 85 252 Magie du Mont Blanc, 90277 Bonicelli, P.: his book: Pukajirka '81, 90262
Bonington, c.J.S.: 'Annapurna South Face', 76 19 'Dougal Haston - a tribute', 83 132 'China 1982', 88 190 'China 1983', 89 193 'Antarctica - Mt Vinson', 89 220 'China 1985', 91 201 his books: Annapurna South Face, 76300
Everest South West Face, 79249 The next horizon, 79249 (with others) Changabang, 81 264 Everest the hard way, 83 260 Quest for adventure, 87247 Kongur, China's Elusive Summit, 88231
(with C. Clarke) Everest, the Unclimbed Ridge, 89237 The Everest Years. A Climber's Life, 92266 Bonne Pierre, Pte de, les Ecrins: 1st British asc., 76 194 Books: reviews of various, 77 280; 78 274 also see under individual book reviews in each vol. Booth, B.: 'The 1971 eruption of Mt Etna', 77 66 'Recent activity on Mt Etna', 78137
'Continents in Collision', 8043 his book: (with F. Fitch) Earthshock, 86 257 Booth, H.: obit. 91 267 Boothman, F.: 'The mountains of Tibet and the Tibet-China border', 87 83 Boots, mountain: construction of, 81 133-42 double-single, 85236 for Nordic ski-ing, 86 238 Borneo, North: climbing on Mt Kinabalu, art. 90187;
map, 90188 Borthwick, A.: his book: Always a little further, 75 312; 89251 Borwick, G.R.: 'Mountaineering Ropes', 78 62 Boscacci: his book: (with others) Montagne di Valtellina e Valchiavenna, 89245 Bossus, P.: 'Climbing on the Saleve', 80 214
GENERAL
Botswana: climbing & walking in, art. 8438 Boundary Range: ascs. in, 74 241 Bourrit: his book: Descriptions des Aspects du Mont Blanc, a facsimile edition of book published in 1776, 83 262 Bouvier, J.-P.: 'The Seventh grade in France', 8775 his book: Rock Climbing in France, 90 263 Boval, Piz: asc., 81 127-8 Bowden, F.P.: obit. 74391 Braham, T.H.: 'North West Karakoram 1970', 76163 'The Himalaya - winds of change', 7857 his book: Himalayan Odyssey, 80251 Brailsford, J.: his books: Dolomites West & Dolomites East, 76313 (with L. Griffin) 'Ten Dauphine Ice Climbs', 87 180 Braking in rope handling: 74316 Brammah: attempt, 77 165 1st asc., 79 254 2nd asc., 84 103, ill. 84 104 Brammah's Wife: attempt & 1st & 2nd ascs., 86 183 Bramona, R.: 'Spanish expedition to Saraghrar 1977', 83 210 'The 1977 Spanish expedition to Dhaulagiri 1', 85 190 Brandt, M.: (with E. Pyatt) 'Mountain Landscape - the Jura', 78 146 Braun, B.: his book: 1m Eis und Feuer der Anden, 87 260 Brautschen, J.: obit. 74 394 Breche de Roland: crossing on skis, 86 76 Bregaglia: 1971 British ascs. in, 77242 Breithorn, Lauterbrunnen: 1st British asc. by N face, 79 71 Brenta Alta: ascs., 74 179 Brett, D.: his book: High Level, 89252 Brevoort, Meta: climbing career, 81 95-96 Brewster, B.: death, 7467 Bridel, D.G.: death, 79270 Bridge, A.W.: 'The Technique of Falling', 83 48 obit. 77294
INDEX
11
Bridge, G.: 'Satellite pictures of mountains', 83 28 Brigham, B.: 'Underfoot information, history of the climber's boot', 81133 Brightman, D. St. J.: 'Ski descent of Mont Blanc', 77136 Britannia Hut, Saas Fee: British connections & celebrations, 89 180 British Columbia: interior ranges of, 78 1; 79 34 British Isles: notes & new climbs: 74288 81250 75248 82245 76252 83247 77258 84242 78220 85232 79261 86235 80273 Scotland: 89216; 90 243 guidebooks: 86 236 British Mountaineering Council: new constitution, 74 361 notes, 75 291; 76 293 Brniak, M.: 'The Tatra Mountains', 81 119 'Training grounds of Poland', 81213 'Mountaineering & Motor Bikes', 82248 'Main ridge of the Tatra', 82 233 'Anglo-Polish Hindu Kush Exp«dition 1977', 84 137 'Kohe-Skhawr', 84 172 'International Alpine Camp Pamirs 1978', 85 83 (with J. Baryla) 'The Mountains of Mongolia', 86 103 Broad Peak: 1st women's asc., 89 11-15 Broad Peak Middle: 1st asc., 82 132 Broad Peak North: 1st solo asc., 89 212 Broadhead, D.: 'Mountains of the Thui Gol', 82115 'The International Mountaineering Camp 1984', 92 122 Broadhead, Margery: obit. 88261 Brochkogel: solo ski descent of S face, 75 33
12
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
Brock, W.H.: his book: (compiler with others) John Tyndall, Essays of a Natural Philosopher, 88240 Brockbank, P.: 'Moorland Marathons', 80 71 Brocklebank, T.A.: obit. 90 282; 91 264 Brook, Elaine: her book: (with J. Connelly) The Windhorse, 92 273 Brook, P.: obit. 79279 Brooke, R.: 'Triennial Report 1970-2 Polar regions', 78 213 'A married man's Alpine holiday', 81196 Brooks Range (Alaska): ascs. in, 74 240; 75 206 Browell, M.: his book: (with others) Climbs in the Peak. Vol. 6 Staffordshire area, 87 257 (with R. Brown) 'South Pembroke Hazards', 90 148 Brown, H.: 'The Julian Alps: Kugy's Kingdom', 82 95 'About Irghil M'Goun and the Bou Gomez', 84 3 'The Ridge of Dreams', 92 150 his books: Hamish's Mountain Walk, 84 261 Hamish's Groat's End Walk, 87259 The Great Walking Adventure, 92270 Travels, 92275 anthology: Poems of the Scottish Hills, 88235 poems: 'Music' 89 128 'By the Crags' 92 36 books of collected poems: Eye to the Hills, 88247 Time Gentlemen, 89251 Brown, R.: (with M. Browell) 'South Pembroke Hazards', 90 148 Brown, T.G.: centenary exhibition, 88252 Bruce, J.G.: obit. 78283 Bryson, D.C.: obit. 85260 Buchner, R.: 'Climbing in the Franconian Jura in South Germany', 83 139 Bueler W.: his book: Mountains of the World, 84262 Buffalo Gorge, North Wall: note re grading of climbs, 76238
Buhl, H.: his climbs, 74 53 Buildings: climbing on, 83256; 84255; 85 246; 86 245 Bull, D.C.: obit. 80299 Bullock Workman, Fanny: climbing career, 82 104-6 Buni Zorn Group: ascs. in, 77 246; 85 150 Bunting, P.: 'Imperial College Cordillera Real Expedition 1972', 78201 Burdsall, R.L.: his book: (with A.E. Emmons) Men against the Clouds, 86259 Burgess, Adrian: 'Some considerations on Himalayan Winter Climbing', 89 207 Burgess, AI: his book: (with J. Palmer) Everest, the Ultimate Challenge, 90266 Burgundy - the Cote d'Or: climbing crags, 80213 Burke, M.: 'Vertical desert: the nose of EI Capitan', 74 125 obit. 81 268 Burkett, M.E.: her book: (with J.D.G. Sloss) William Green of Ambleside, Lake District Artist, 90 271 Burney, Mt: asc., 80 3 Burns, M.: 'One-man Expeditions and their problems', 89 168 Burroughs, W.: 'Atmospheric studies at Jungfraujoch', 76 133 Buscaini,G.: his book: Ortles-Cevedale. Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio, 90259 Busk, D.: his book: Armand Charlet - Portrait of a Guide, 81265 'Because it wasn't there', 90 170 Butler, A.J.: Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 172 Butler, Sir J.: obit. 82 268 Butterflies: N Andean, art. 8990 Buzzard, J.H.: obit. 90280 C.A.F. (Provence Sect.): its book: Les Calanques, 86 257 C.A.I.(Turin Sect.): 'Climbs near Turin - Rocca Sbarua', 86 152; 87137 (Cuneo Sect.): its book: Montagne Nostre, 84263 Caiman, Col du: by NW face, 75 138
GENERAL
Calanques: climbing in, 77 185; 8524 threat by proposed road, 79 272 guide books, 85 32 topography, 85 22 general handbook, 86 257 California: climbing in Yosemite, art. 74 92, 125 notes & new climbs, 74 242, 245 Calvert, H.: his book: Smythe's Mountains, 91 249 Cambales, Pic de: asc., 8672 Cambrena, Piz: by the ice nose, 78 134 Cambridge: co1\ege climbs, 81 55-6 Cameron, D.: 'First crossing of the Alps by Hot-Air Ba1\oon', 79 162 Cameron, I.: his book: Mountain of the Gods, 90264 Campbe1\-Ke1\y, B.: 'Parque Nacional de los Glaciares, Patagonia', 81 191 his book: A Patagonian Handbook, 81266 Canada: S Logan mountains, 74 108 winter ice-climbing in, 79257 notes & new climbs: 82243; 83 242; 84 235; 85 227; 86 230 Canadian Arctic, 89221; 91 215; 92223 Western, descriptive art. with photos & maps, 90229 Juneau ice-field, art. 92 192 Cape Farewe1\: mountaineering prospects, 80 208 Cape Province: climbs in, 75 74 Capitan, EI: 1st British asc. by the Nose, 74125 by Salathe Wa1\, 75 25 Cappon, M.: his book: Rock and Ice Climbing, 89247 Capucin, Grand: by E face direct, 74 173 Capurata (Chile): 1st asc., 74273 Carabaya, Cordi1\era: ascs. in, 77 211; map 77 212 Carleton, Janet: see Adam-Smith, J. Caroux, the: 81 212 Carpendale, R.D.S.: obit. 82268 Carr, Evelyn: obit. 91 268; 92 281 Carr, H.: 'A Victorian SurveyorArtist in the Himalaya and Karakoram', 83 12 his book (editor): The Irvine Diaries, 85 249 obit. 92297
INDEX
13
Carrington, R.: 'Some sobering thoughts on Nepalese climbing', 88201 Carstensz Massif (New Guinea): expedition to, 78 188 Carstensz Pyramide (New Guinea): climbed, 78 192 Carter, H. A. : '1978 American K2 Expedition' 84 52
'North America 1982', 88207 Casanova, 0.: his book: Escursioni Nei Parchi Alpini, 84 263 Case, J.e.: obit. 92284 Cashbrair: 1st asc., 74 226 correction re., 75 186 Cassin, R.: 'The West face of Jirishanca 1969', 75 1 'Italian climbing between the wars', 77 149 his books: 50 years of Alpinism, 87251 (with G. Nangeroni) Lhotse 75, 83263 Caste1\o, Cima di: 1st asc. by central pillar of S face, 75 50, 144 Caucasus: British-Soviet 1970 expedition, 76 111 climbing in, art. 86 126 International Mountaineering Camp in, 1984, art. 92 122 British Caucasus expedition 1986, art. 92 129 Caving: in Britain, art. 80 111 Cedarberg: art. 81 128 Cengalo, Piz: by N ridge, 74 177 by N buttress, 76 202 Cernfk, A.: his book: Truny Bohu, 87260 Cerro Stanhardt: 1st asc., 83 245 Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz, Alison: obit. 84271 Chalk climbing: in France, 76173 Challis, D.H.: 'Three Peaks in Chamba-Lahul 1969', 75 39 'One and a half in the Alps' 79203 'Forty-four and a half in the Himalaya', 85 154 Chamlang: 1st ascs. of E & central summits, 90 92 Chamonix: Chamonix, une vallee des hommes, descriptive book, 90259 Champion, J.A.: 'Single Crystals natural and synthetic', 78 98
14
INDEX TO VOLUMES
Changabang: 1st asc., 80 151, 239, ill. 80 154, 156 ref. to & photo, 81 69-70 ascs. by new routes, 82 239 1st asc. by W face, 8223 Chap Darrah: 1st ascs. from, 76 215 Chapman, F.S.: obit. & port, 77 291 Chappez, M.: his book: La Haute Route, 81 264 Chaputschin II: ski asc., 75 128 Chardonnet, Aig. du: description of traverse, 82 142 Charleson, 1.G., obit. 80300 Charlet, A.: obit. 82 269 Chartreuse group: descriptive art. 82 120 Chaturangi Glacier: 1st asc. of Peak 20,684ft. from, 75 195 Chaudhara: 1st asc., 79255 Chaupi Orco: 1st traverse, 75 221 Cheesmond, D.: 'The Mummer Cordillera del Paine, Chile', 84117 Cheney, M.: 'Events and Trends 1970-76 Nepal Himalaya', 83218 'Letter from Kathmandu', 88 199 'Notes for Expeditions to Nepal', 89203 'Tourist Portage', 90 208 Cheverst, W.: death, 78264 Chew, F.R.G.: obit. 76323 Chhutidum glacier: map & reconnaissance, 74205-6 Chi Gari glacier: 1st ascs. from, 75 169 Chickar Zorn: 2nd asc., 74204 Chicon III: 1st asc., 79 258 Chien, Rocher du: 87 135 Chile: notes & new climbs: 74273 84241 75223 85229 76247 86234 78251 87226 79258 88209' 81249 89227 82224 90238 Triennial report 1971-3, 79233 travels in the Puna de Atacama, art. with maps & photos, 90176-83 Chilpariti (Peru): asc., 74 267 Chimborazo: 1st asc. by N ridge, 74247
74-92
China: Kongur Massif, art. 867 notes re climbing in, 86227 expedition to Da Xue Shan, art. 87117 new climbs, 88 190; 89 193; 90 213; 91 201 book: High Mountain Peaks in China, 88 243 mountaineering in, art. with map & photos, 90 23 a mountain in, art. 90 35 caving in, M.E.F. note, 92243 Chitral: 1971 expedition to, 78 183 Chobani La: pass in E Kishtwar, map, 8935-37 Chogolisa: 1st traverse of, art. 92 74 Cholatse: 1st asc., 88 27 Chomolhari: 2nd asc., 76 233 ref. to & photos, 83 184, 188 Chongra Peak, Kashmir: 1st asc., 78 240 Chopicalqui, Nevado: 1st asc. by SE ridge, 75 13 Chorley, Lord: obit. 84 265 Chorley, Katherine, Lady: obit. 92310 Chorley, R.: as President of Alpine Club, Valedictory Address, 919 Chouinard, Y.: his books: Climbing Ice, 84259 Glace et Neige - Art et Technique, 87256 Chrobak, E.: 'New route on the Grand Pilier d'Angle, Mt Blanc', 75 95 'Pointe Heh~ne', 77 61 Chrystal, 1.: 'The Oberreintal', 91122 Chugach Range: ascs. in, 74241 Chulu East: Alpine Club asc. of, 87 196 Chulu Peak: expedition to, art. with map, 9097 Churen Himal: Italian attempt, 75196 1st & other ascs., 76 228 central peak, 1st & 2nd ascs., 77107 1st asc. of W peak, 77 109 ill. 77 106, 108, 109 Cilo Dag: ascs. in, 75 156 Citadel, Alaska: 1st asc. of E buttress, 83 241
GENERAL
Civetta: Torre Trieste by CassinRatti route, 74 179 by the Aste-Susatti route, 75 146 Clarbrough, M.: 'Nevado Chopicalqui, SE ridge', 75 13 Clarence Island (Antarctica): asc. of highest peak on, 76 251; 77 205 Clark, G.: 'Himalayan Sojourn', 78 38 Clark, J.F.G.: obit. & port., 75331 fatal accident to, 76337 Clark, R.W.: 'Play up, play up and play the game!', 81 160 his books: The Alps, 79250 Men, Myths and Mountains, 83259 Clarke, A.B.: his book: Rock Climbing, 86257 Clarke, c.: 'The Kishtwar Himalaya Expedition 1971',77164 'The first ascent of Swargarohini', 80 195 his books: (with C. Bonington) Everest, the Unclimbed Ridge, 89 237 (with A. Salkeld, editors) Lightweight Expeditions to the Great Ranges, 90 275 Clarke, M.N.: obit. 83268 Cleare, J.: 'Grigna', 76 169 'Thirteen nations on Mount Everest', 779 'Sea Stacks', 79 47 'Ruwenzori', 82 12; colour photos 8216-17 'Ski Mountaineering in China. The Ascent of Mustagh Ata', 88 29 his books: Mountains, 81 228; 83263 Collins Guide to Mountains & Mountaineering, 85 250 Mountaineering, 86259 Cliff, P.: 'British Alpine Ski Traverse 1972', 78 13 Climatology: see Science Notes Climbers: main German & Austrian since 1930, 7447 analytical art. 77 96 Playgrounds - Europe - a series of short reports: see Special Districts p. 63. Climbing: future of British in the 1970's, art. 78 89 techniques at high altitude, 79246 psychological aspects of advanced rock, 82 88
INDEX
15
Climbing walls: 80 278 Clinch, N.: his book: A Walk in the Sky, 89249 Clothing: design & materials for mountain wear, 86 138 Clough, I.S.: 'A flying visit to the Slovak High Tatra', 7495 death, 75285; 7632 obit. & port., 76324; 77295 Clubs: notes on various mountaineering, 74360-4; 75290-3; 76293 Cohen, G.: 'A Short Walk in the Pilgun Gad', 8979 Cohen, V.D.: obit. 90285 Coleman, M.: 'Les Courtes Solo', 80 141 Collins, Hilary: 'The Snow Mountains of Irian Jaya', 85 118 Collister, R.: 'Parbati South 1973', 79 121 'The Hidden Valley', 79 189 'Grands Charmoz in Winter', 81 65 'A Summer in Gilgit 1975', Pt.I 82 158; Pt.II 83 64 'Kishtwar from the other side', 83 206 'Small expeditions in the Himalaya', 84166 'Adventure versus the mountain', 89 123 Collomb, R.G.: 'Corsica Mountains', 87 100 his books: Selected Climbs in the Bernese Alps, 74379 Graians East, Zermatt & District, 75 314 Bernese Alps West, 76317 Corsica Mountains, 88249 Picos de Europa, 89 255 Collon, Mt: by central ridge of N face, 75 141 Collon, Petit Mt: by N face of W peak, 75 141 Colombel, Christine de: her book: Voix de Femmes au K2, 90274 Colombia: triennial report 1971-3, 79 228; 82 220 new climbs, 84237; 85229; 89226 Central Cordillera of, 82 49 mountaineering bibliography, 82 55 Colorado plateau: geological features incl. Grand Canyon, art. with photos & diagrams, 87 121
16
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
Columbia, Mt: by N face & N ridge, 76240 Combin de Valsorey: by NW face, 76 200 Commando Peak (Ellesmere Island): 1st asc., 79 176 Communism, Peak: 1st asc. by S face, 7425 parachute landings on, 74349 climbing routes on, 78 174-5 information in book: Sur Ie Toif du Monde, 84259 Competition: climbing, in the USSR, 80 90 in climbing, art. 83 112-4 note on, 84254 Compton, E. T.: exhibition of his pictures, 74 341 book of his paintings: Maler und Bergsteiger zwischen Fels und Firn, 88227 Condoriri Norte: 1st asc. by SW ridge, 75 221 Confin, Fuorcla del: crossed, 7484 Connelly, Julie: her book: (with E. Brook) The Win dhorse , 92 273 Connor, T.: 'Triennial Report 196971 North America', 77 229 additional notes 1971, 77250 'Corsica', 78 144 'Triennial Report 1972-74 North America', 80 235 'Mountain Winds', 8181 'Angouleme - The Rocks of Eaux Claires', 81 215 'Equipment and Technique 1975', 81252 'Regional Notes 1976', 82 233 'Equipment and Technique 1976', 82247 'Regional Notes 1977', 83233 'Equipment and Technique 1977', 83248 'Regional Notes 1978', 84220 'Equipment and Technique 1978', 84244 'Science Notes 1978', 84246 (with E. Pyatt) 'Science Notes 1979', 85 238 'Equipment and Technique 1980', 86237 'Regional Notes 1980', 86 219 'Science Notes 1980', 86 238 'Science Notes 1981', 87 227 'Science Notes 1982', 88 221
Consolation Peak: ascs., 76 225; 79 22, 27 Contamine, A.: obit. & port., 91 272 Conversions, metric: 76 285 Conway, W.M.: Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 172 Conway's Ogre: attempt, 86 191 Cook, Mt: ascs., 74217; 75204; 79256; 8255 1st by Caroline face, 76 238 climbing history, 82 60; ill. 8259, 61 attempted in 1882, 87 159 Cook, R.: obit. 92285 Coolidge, W.A.B.: Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 170 Cooper, W. Heaton: his books: The Hills of Lakeland, 90 260 Mountain Painter - An Autobiography, 90269 Cordier, P.: his book: Les Pre-Alpes du Sud, 88 239 Cornwall: sea cliff climbing, art. 87 67 Corsica: ascs. in, 74 180; 75 147; 78 144 art. with map & photos, 87 100 guidebook to, 92 272 Coupe, S.: his book: En Chartreuse et Vercors, 87256 Courtes, Les: by NE spur, 74 176 winter asc. by N face, 7823 solo asc., 80 143 Couture, B.: 'Mountain parachutejumping', 76 99 Cox, A.D.M.: as President of Alpine Club, Valedictory address, 79 1 'Early years', 85 89 Craig, M.: 'Mont Ventoux', 83 128 'Dent Blanche', 87 9 Craig, R.W.: his book: Storm and Sorrow in the High Pamirs, 80261 Crampons: 17th century, 75 277 early use of, 76287 15th century, 77 269 introduction of strapless, 85 236 Cranfield, Ingrid: her book: The Challengers, 82 263 Crepin, F.R.: obit. 92295 Crevasses: accidents, 86 184; 87 28 Crew, P.: his book: Encyclopaedic Dictionary of Mountaineering, 74370
GENERAL
Crocket, K.: 'Scotland 1981-83', 89 216 'Scottish Winter Notes 1983-4', 90 243 'Winter climbing on Beinn an Dothaidh', 91 129 'Scottish Winter 1984-5', 91 221 'Scottish Winter 1985-6', 92 229 his book: Ben Nevis, 92267 Croix de Provence: rock-climbing area, 80 189-91 Crombie, T.: obit. 90 279 Crooked Finger (Kishtwar): asc., 75190 Croucher, N.: his books: High Hopes, 83261 A Man and his Mountains, 90276 Cruz, M.: his book: Die Schneeberge Ecuadors, 90 273 Crystals: natural & synthetic, art. 7898 Cuernos Norte: 1st asc., 78 198 Culbert, R.: 'The Chief', 80 105 Cumiana, Denti di: rock climbs near Turin, 87 137 Cunningham, J.: (with W. March) 'New Ice Climbing Techniques and Equipment', 77 75 Curran, J.: 'Cordillera Apolobamba', 91 135 his book: Trango, the Nameless Tower, 85 254 Cuthbertson, D.: his guide: Creag Dubh and Craig-a-Barns, 89254 Cyprus: note on the mountains of, 76204 Czechoslovakia: sandstone rocks in, 78 116 DADSON, R.S.: obit. 92295 Daffern, A.: his book: Avalanche Safety for Skiers & Climbers, 89242 Daintar Pass: crossed, 76 166 Dakura, Peak 29: attempted, 75 199 possible 1st ascs., 76 229; 85 223; 89185 Dalmatian Coast: climbs, 81 203 Damesme, M.: (with T. de Lepiney) 'The early years of the Groupe de Haute Montagne', 75 109 Dan Beard, Mt: summit reached, 8065 ill. also showing Mt McKinley, 8063
INDEX
17
Dangar, D.F.O.: 'The highest mountains 1968-77', 84 29 'A record of the First Ascents of the Fifty Highest Mountains', 89184 Daniells, T.: his book: Southern Sandstone, 88241 Darrahe Qalat: climbs in, 82 83-5 Darvill, Jm., F.T.: his book: Mountaineering Medicine, 74378 Darwin, Cerro: asc. of true, & Shipton's renamed, 79260 Darwin, c.: his book: The Illustrated Origin of Species, 85256 Dauphine: 1971 British ascs. in, 77 235 Pre de Madame Carle - origins of name, 85 243 ice climbs in, art. 87 180 new climbs, 87 208 Davies, c.: 'Saussois', 77 183 Davis, c.J.: obit. 88256 Dawson, Dr P.: (with Dr J. Uhrig) 'Sherpas & sickness', 89 80 Day, M.W.H.: 'Tirich Mir 1969', 75 79 'Annapurna - N face route', 76 89 ' ... every advantage that the wit of man can devise', 79 246 'Da Xue Shan, Sichuan, China', 87117 Deadman: construction & uses of, 74 327 Deborah, Mt: 1st asc. of N face, ill. art. 8350 colour photos, 83 between 24 & 25 Deelen, F.A.J.: death, 77272 Della Beffa, F.: (with L. Gasparini) 'Grigna', 83 106 Demavend: asc., 75 158 attempt, 78 39 Dent Blanche: history of, 879-19, 164-6 O.G. Jones killed on, 1899, 8716-17 Dental: emergencies in the mountains, 8246 Deoban: ascs. of Pt. 21,390ft., 74228,229 Deo Tibba: asc. & ski descent, 75 193 1st asc. by N ridge & 1st traverse, 7738 ascs., 79 22, 27
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
18
Derbyshire: new climbs, 80275 Desio, M.: his book: K2, Verso il Cielo, 89 247 Desmaison, R.: his book: Total Alpinism, 89245; 90261 Desor, E.: 'First ascent of the Galenstock', 87 58 Devies, L.: his book (with others): Le Massif des Ecrins Vol I, 75313 obit. & port., 86 264 Devil's Paw: 1st asc. of S couloir, 83242 Devil's Thumb: 3rd asc., 77251 Devonshire, Georgiana Duchess of: 89141
Dewison, A.J.: death, 79255,279 obit. 80301 Dhampus Pass: ascs. above, 79 194 Dharmsura (White Sail): 3rd asc., 76 225 Dhaulagiri: book on American expeditions of 1964 & 1973, 82262
DI: American attempt, 75 197 2nd asc., 76 228 3rd asc., 79 255 Spanish asc., 85 190 Yugoslavian, 1st asc. by S face, 88182
DII: 1st asc., 77 168 DIll: 1st & 2nd ascs., 79255; 80198
DIV: Austrian attempt, 75 196 Japanese attempts, 76228; 78241
Austrian & British attempts, 79 255 1st & 2nd ascs. by Japanese, 81 241 DV: Japanese attempts, 77 248 Japanese asc., 81 242 DVI: 1st & 2nd ascs. by Japanese, 76 228; Japanese asc., 78 241 Dibibokri Pyramid: 1st asc., 85 117 Dickinson, L.: 'Filming on the Nordwand', 77 144 films: Everest Unmasked - the first ascent without oxygen, 85255 Sailing above the Alps, 85 256 Eiger, 89 257 his book: Filming the Impossible, 88233
Dickson, B.T.: obit. 82271 Diemberger, K.: 'Under the Spell of K2 and Gasherbrum', 89 16 'A Sortie on Broad Peak', 90 54
Diemberger, K.: his books; Tra Zero e Ottomila, 76311
Summits and Secrets, 77 276 Dilworth, Kate: 'Cordillera Carabaya Expedition 1971', 77211
Dingle, G.:his books: Wall of Shadows, 84259 (with Peter Hillary) First across the Roof of the World, 89240 Dir Gol Zorn: asc., 75 166; 79 201 Little, 1st asc., 75 166 Disgrazia, Mte delia: 1st British asc. by N face direct, 76 105, 201 Distaghil Sar: 1st asc. listed, 89 185 Djurdjura Mts: ascs. in, 77 243 Doake, e.S.M.: 'Ice on the Move', 82 65 Dodds, D.A.: his book: A Cradle of Rivers - the Natal Drakensberg, 82262
Dogs: use in search & rescue, 74309 attitude towards, 81 258 Doldenhorn: by N face, 74 176 asc., 79203 Dole, H.W.: death, 79270 Dolent, Col: 1st asc. in 1878, 83 217 Dolomites: paintings of, 74 148 notes, 74 179; 77 242; 78 233 Italian edition of 1864 British travel book, 88 245 guide books to: Via Ferrata 88 248; Brenta Dolomites 88249
Dome de Rochefort: 1st asc., 86218 Donaldson, J.e.: his book: Munro's Tables, 80291 Donkin, W.: death, 75285 Douglas, T.: his place in Canadian mountaineering, 78 1 Drakensberg: description & climbing history, art. 78 27; 87 110 notes, 87 219 Drasdo, H.: 'Margins of Safety', 74 159 Dravers, M.: 'The Opening of Ladakh - five years on', 85 129 Dreyfus, P.: his book: Sylvain Saudan, 76 303 Droites, Les: winter attempt by N face, 78 8 Droyer, J.e.: 'Free climbing - some ideas for a more rigorous conception', 83 144
GENERAL
Dru, Aig. du: Dru Petit: by Bonatti pillar, 74175 2nd solo (British) asc. of Bonatti pillar, 75 140 by SW pillar, 76 194 1st solo asc. by N face, 76 194 Dru Grand: S pillar, 2nd British asc. by Bastien-Contamine route, 75 140 1st asc. in 1878, 83 217 Drummond, P.: 'Bolivia's Royal Range', 90 172 Du Toits Peak: N by NW route on, 7794 Duff, D.: obit. 75341 Duff, M.: 'Riders of the Storm - The West Ridge of Thamserku', 8947 'The Second Ascent of the Mustagh Tower', 90 74 'A Dangerous Day', 91 76 'The Other Side of the Mera', 9289 Duffield, D.B.: 'A Grand High Level Route', 8741 Dunagiri: new route, 81 241 asc. by SE spur, 82 23, ill. 82 21 1st asc. of N face, 83 238 Dunn, B.J.: 'Mountaineering ropes', 84 43 Dunsheath, Joyce: obit. 84266 Duphao Jot: 1st asc., 75 40 2nd asc., 7925,27 Durand, Col de Fenetre du: crossed, 7490 Dutton, G.J.F.: his book: The Ridiculous Mountains, 90277 Dyhrenfurth, Dr G.O.: obit. 81268 EALES, C.M.D.: obit. 89258 Earle, J.: 'Tierra del Fuego 1979', 85 141 his book: The Springs of Enchantment, 86253 Earthquakes: notes, 80 279-80 East Africa: new climbs, 82 235 Eastern Cape: events & trends 1974-76, 82 230 Eastwood, F.: (with R. Crossley) 'Climbing in Malawi', 85 69 Ebnefluh: NW face, 1st British asc. by Aschenbrenner-Mariner route, 75143
INDEX
19
Echevarria, E.: 'Triennial Report 1971-3The Andes', 79228 'The Central Cordillera of Colombia', 82 49 'Events and Trends 1974-6 The Andes', 82219 'The Cordillera Blanca of Peru as a national park', 85 200 'Legends of the High Andes', 8885 'South America 1982', 88 208 'South America 1983', 89 224 'South America 1984', 90 237 'South America 1985', 91 218 'Early British Ascents in the Andes', 92 61 'South America 1986', 92 226 Ecuador: triennial report 1971-3, 79229 events & trends 1974-6, 82 220 Edmundson, D.: obit. & port., 85260 Education: and mountains, art. 86201 Edwards, H.: his book: (with 1. Spring) 100 Hikes in the Alps, 85252 Egeler, Prof Dr C.G.: obit. 89273 Eiger: an asc. in 1883, 86 116 attempt in 1st Alpine season, 8732 Eiger, North Wall: events leading to 1st asc., art. 7447, ill. 74 52 accident on, 74 67 new routes on, 74 177, 75 143 3rd British asc., 75 143 various ascs., 76 196-8; 90 140-4 attempt by Lauper route, 77 143 filming on, 77 144 winter asc., art. 81 48 film: Eiger Sanction reviewed, 81267 review of TV film of 1st solo British asc., 89 257 ref. to in art. 92 165 Ejnar Mikkelsens Fjeld: problem of asc., 75 239 1st asc., 76 250 El Gran Trono Blanco: 82 102 Elbruz: comments on 1st asc. in 1829, 78265 summit reached, 86 129 Elbsandsteingebirge: climbing in, 83 140 Elburz Mts: expedition to, 75 157
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
20
Electrical phenomena: recent developments, 82253; 83 250 Elephant Island: Joint Services expedition to, 76251; 77204 map 77 207 Ellesmere Island: expedition to, 79 174 Elliott, Sir c.A.: obit. 79 280; 80 295 Elliott, F.: 'Climbing in Namibia', 84 113 Ellis, c.: 'Gliding and Mountains', 79 91 Ellis, D.: 'Triennial report 1970-2 British Isles', 78 220 obit. 82271 Ellsworth Mts: 89 97 Elwood, H.: 'The Taurus Mountains', 76 119 Enderlin, F.: guide, 90201 English Lake District: climbing in, art. 82 42 Equipment and Technique: notes: 74315 75 272 76274 77265 78255 79265 80277
81252 82 148, 247 83248
84 244 85235 86237
Erebus, Mt: asc., 74239 Erosion in mountains: art. 83 198 Eryl Pardoe Memorial Hut: note on, 78249 Escudier, J.: his book: L'Aneto et les Hommes, 84261 Estcourt, N.: obit. 84 267 Ethiopia: note, 74 182 Polish expedition to, 75 149 Etna, Mt: 1971 eruption of, 77 66; 78 137; map, 78 138 1979 eruption of, 85 238 Etrier: early application of the principle, 76 278 Europe: new guide books, 80258-9 climbers' playgrounds, art. 84 139-144 see also Area Notes in Alpine Journals Evans, c.: as President of Alpine Club, Valedictory address, 767 Evans, H.: his book: (with others) We learned to ski, 81 263
Evans, R.B.: his book: Scrambles in the Lake District, 88 248 Everest, Mt: and personalities (study on 1963 American expedition), art. 74101
Japanese ascs. & attempts, 75 199; 76231;
79255;
86226;
87223
preparations for 1921 expedition, art. 7643 international expedition 1971, art. 779
reporter's view of, art. 77 116 attempt by SW face, 78 242 Mallory & Irvine's last climb, comment, 78 266 Italian asc., 79 255 height of, 80 285 British SW face expedition 1975, art. 81 3 Jackdaw publication: The ascent of Mt Everest, 81 266 Ski-ing down Mt Everest - a television film, 81 267 accident to French expedition, 8230
British-Nepalese army expedition, 1976 asc., 82 239 American Bicentennial expedition, asc., 82239 native name of, 82 258 protection from large expeditions, comment, 82 258 stamps, covers & cachets, art. 84 53
twenty-fifth anniversary of 1st asc., 84250
Yugoslavian asc. by W ridge, 85223
German asc. by S Col, 85 223 1st winter asc. by Polish expedition, 86 225; art. 89 50 solo ascs., 86 226 book: The Unclimbed Ridge, 89237
book on Chinese asc., 89 249 book on geology, flora etc. 89250 N face - a doctor's view, art. 90 110 book on Russian expedition 1982, 90 262 Russian asc. by W ridge 1984, art. 90113 Seligmann Harris expedition to NE ridge, 92 92
GENERAL INDEX
Everest, Mt: books: Everest the Unclimbed Ridge, 92 262 The Everest Years: A Climber's Life, 92266 Everest Grand Circle, 92267 The Windhorse, 92273 climbing guidebook, 92 277 Everest, Mt, Foundation: notes: 1980-81, 87238-44 1981-82, 88212-16 1982-83, 89 188-90 1983-84, 90 247-50 1984-85, 91 227-30 1985-86, 92 238-43 General guidelines & notes for expeditions, 89 200-6 Expedition medicine: planning guide, 90274 Expeditions: small, art. 82 21 small, proceedings of seminar on planning, 88 246 Advisory Centre, 88 286 Lightweight, book, 90 275 F., K.C.: 'Climbers', 7796 Fabrics: for mountain clothing, 86 140 Fafler Alp: 50 years ago, 86 190 Fairley, J.: Editor of Alpine Journal, 87237 editorials: 'To a Louse', 899 'Blanks on the Map', 909 Fairweather, Mt: 3rd asc., 74241 Falak Sar: 3rd asc., 74 193 from N, 76 218 Falling, Technique of: art. 83 48 Fanshawe, A.: 'Walking Conway's Great White Roof' - the first traverse of Chogolisa, 9274 Fantin, M.: his books: Montagne Di Groenlandia, 75 302 Alpinismo 1taliano nel Mondo, 79248 Himalaja e Karakorum, 85 250 Le Ande, 86 255 obit. 86262 Farr, M.: his book: The Darkness Beckons, 86 255 Farrar, J.P.: Editor of Alpine Journal, 80120-7 Fatti, P.: 'The E ridge of San Lorenzo', 9248
21
Faur, Freda du: her book: The Conquest of Mt Cook and other climbs, 84 262 Faux, R.: 'Everest NE Ridge - The Seligmann Harris Expedition', 9292 his books: High Ambition, a biog. of R. Messner, 88 245 Everest - Goddess of the Wind, 86257 (with J. Fleming) Soldiers on Everest, 83 260 Fawcett, R.: extreme rockclimber, 83227-31 Fedden, H.R.R.: 'Pindos range: Timfi massif', 78 25 'Peru: Cordillera Vileabamba 1971',7883 obit. 83268 Ferber, Peggy: her book (editor): Mountaineering - the Freedom of the Hills, 86 260 Ferenski, J.: (with K. Glasek) 'Victory and Tragedy on Broad Peak', 82 129 Ferro, Pizzi del: by N faces of pillars, 75 143 Fex-Scerscen, Fuorcla: crossed, 78 139 Fiala, I.: his book: Makalu 1976, 84263 Fiction: in mountaineering literature, art. 85 121 Field, E.S.: death, 75285 Fiero, Cerro: asc., 75225 Films: Matterhorn, North Face, 82265 Morte d'un Guide, 82 265 Finch, G.I.: death, 76291 obit. & port., 77287; 78283 Finlaison, J.: early Alpinist, 8713 Finsteraarhorn: winter asc., 89 129 Finzi, N.S.: obit., note on, 74392 Fiorentina, Sezione (C.A.I.): centenary book, 75 313 Firn und Eis der Schweizer Alpen: book on Swiss glaciers, 82 263 First Ascents of the Fifty Highest Mountains: listed, 89 184-6 Fischesser, B.: his book: La Vie de la Montagne, 89246 Fisher, J.: death, 77272 Fishwick, c.: his paintings of the Dolomites, 74 148
22
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Fitzgerald, K.: 'The other side of the hill', 81 175 intro. to 'In Memoriam', 82 265 'Mr Sherlock Holmes as rockclimber and all-round mountaineer', 83 99 'Mountains in the Strand', 84 144 'Whatever happened to mountaineering', 86 35 Fitzroy: 3rd asc. and 1st by SW buttress, 74 131, 274 attempts, 75 234; 79 259 E pillar, ill. 84 116 Fleming, J.: 'The Army Mountaineering Association Himachal Pradesh Expedition 1973', 7921 'Nuptse 1975', 81 107 his book: (with R. Faux) Soldiers on Everest, 83 260 Fleming, R. & L.: their book: Kathmandu Valley, 85252 Fletschhorn: 1st British asc. by N face, 76 199 asc., 7968 Flower, R.: his book: The Story of Ski-ing & other winter sports, 83261 Fluchthorn: ski asc., 75 128 Fontainebleau: climbing area, 85 208 Fontanet, J.e.: his book: La Montagne, 76310 Foot, A.E.: obit. 74395 Fora, Piz: asc., 78 139 Foraker, Mt: 4th asc., 74240 central spur, 1st asc. of S face, 83241 Forbes, Mt: 1st winter asc., 77 251 Fordham, D.: 'Triennial Report 1973-5 Greenland', 81 206 'To the Place of Graves', 89 108 'Greenland 1983', 89 222 (with R. Hoare) 'Failure on Forel', 90 161 'Arctic 1984-5', 91 213 Forster, R.P.: obit. 79281 Foster, J.: 'An 18th century Swiss Journey', 86 57 Fourche, La: story, 90 127 Fowler, M.: 'Games in a private world', 87 67 Fowler, Mick: 'Bojohagar', 9077 Fraenkel, P.: his book: Overland, 82261
74-92
France: climbing rocks in NW, 78117 rock-climbing in, 8775-8, 135-7 guides to non-mountain climbing sites, 88 242, 245 Franco, J.A.: death, 77272 obit. 78281 Franconian Jura: climbing in, 83 139 Franczuk, J.: death, 7724 Frank, D.: his book: Traumland Nepal, 82264 Fraser, e.: his books: L'Enigma Delle Valanghe, 76311 A valanche and Snow Safety, 84260 Fraser, S.: 'A Himalayan Pass in winter - Tashi Lapcha La', 8696 'The exploration of the Antarctic Peninsula', 8997 'Puna de Atacama, Chile', 90 177 'Mountains of the Snow Leopard', 9165 Frass, H.: his book: Dolomites Mountains of Magic, 83264 Frattero Zorn (Pechus Glacier): 1st asc., 74 217 Frazier, e.: his book: (with D. Secreast) Adventuring in the Andes, 91252 Free-climbing: ethics of, art. 83 144 Freeman, G.: 'Ski-mountaineering in the Eastern Alps', 85 176 French Alpine Club: centenary, 79271 Freshfield, D.W.: Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 168 Frey, W.: his book: Zwischen Munjan und Bashgal Pt./I, 74380 'Climbing in the Swabian Alps in SW Germany', 80 211 Friends: rock climbing device, 85 235 Friga, Mt: 1st asc. of W face, 83 246 ill. 83 244-5 Frostbite: treatment of, 74 347; 76 70 information on, 87 234 Friindenhorn : note re NW ridge, 75 142 asc., 79203 Fiihrerbiicher: in the Alpine Club Library, 76 287
GENERAL
Fujii, M.: 'Kanjut Sar West Face', 88 179 Fuorikante: struck by lightning in the Badile, 90 145 Furchetta: by N face (SollederWiessner route), 76202 Furka Tunnel: opened, 87 235 Furse, C.: his book: Elephant Island, 87 255 Fyffe, A.: 'From Zero to Astronomy', 80 185 his book: (with A. Nisbet) Climbers Guide to the Cairngorms, 91 260 GAETA (Italy): sea cliff climbing, 84 139 Gaetani, L.: 'Expedition to the Millpo Group (Peru)', 81 63 Gajewski, J.W.: 'Poland', 90245 Galenstock: 1st asc. (1884), art. 8758 Gallas, F.E.: his book: Land Search and Rescue, 89 252 Ganesh II: climbed, 9073 Ganga Puma: by Sanctuary W ridge, 77249 Gangchentak, Bhutan: ill. 83 189 Gangotri: asc. of Pt. 19,690ft., 74228 2nd & 3rd ascs. of Gangotri III, 75 194 1st asc. of un-named peak, 75 195 views on, art. with photos, 91 57 Gaping Gill: 80 110-8 Garagai: natural rock tunnel in Provence, 80 192 Garhwal: notes & new climbs: 74228 83238 78240 84229 82238 85222 climbing in, art. 82 168 travels in (art. 'In the steps of Shipton'), 84 154 expedition to, art. 90 100 Alpine Club meet 1986, 9285 see also Special Districts p. 72. Garmo Peak: recovery of note left in 1962, 75 162 Garobbio, A.: his book (editor): Il Grande Libro delle Montagne, 82261 Garrod, Marjorie: obit. 87262 Gasherbrum I: SW ridge, 1st asc., 83 237
INDEX
23
Gasherbrum II: summit reached by Chilean expedition 1979, 85153,231 art. 89 16 Gasherbrum III: Scottish expedition to, 1985, art. with photos, 91 41 Gasherbrum V: 1st asc. by Japanese expedition 1978, 85 222 Gasherbrum Group: 1st ascs. listed, 89 184-5 Gasparini, L.: (with F. Della Beffa) 'Grigna', 83 106 Gattlen, A.: his book: (with others) Das Matterhorn im Bild, 85 253 Gaulis, L.: his book: (with R. Creux) Swiss hotel pioneers, 84 259 Gaurishankar: 1st asc. of main summit, 85 223; 86 39 1st asc. of S summit, 86 46 Gavamie, Cirque de: climbing in, art. 81 55 ski-ing, 86 76 Geddes, M.G.: obit. 91286 Gele de Durand, Mt: by N face, 74176 Geniskaya: by new route on N face, 7839 Geology: new findings in, 8043; 83251 Geophysical terms: glossary of, 80 62 George, H.B.: Editor of Alpine Journal, 79166-7 George, D.: his book: In the Deserts of this Earth, 85 255 Geothermal energy: 84 248 Gerlachovsky (Tatra): asc., 74 98 Ghochkar Sar: 2nd asc., 74 216 Ghul Lasht Zorn: asc. of Speak, 78 183 E peak by S ridge, 78 183 Ghustung North: 4th asc., 75 22 Gibson, J.: 'An introduction to Mountains',91179 Gifford, N.: his book: Expeditions & Exploration, 89240 Gigantopithecus: 80 104 Gilbert, L.: 'Peter Botte's Mountain', 78 161 'Before Everest', 81 74 Gilbert, R.: 'Schoolboys on Kolahoi', 83 174 his books: Memorable Munros, 83 263; 89 252
24
INDEX
TO VOLUMES 74-92
Gilbert, R.: Young Explorers, 86 258 Mountaineering for All, 88 250 (with K. Wilson) compilers of book: Classic Walks, 88234 Gilgit: a summer in, art. with map, 82158; 8364 problems with porters, 82 162-4 Gill, M.: his book: Mountain Midsummer, 75 304 Gillette, N.: his book: (with J. Reynolds) Everest Grand Circle, 92269 Gillman, P.: his book: Fitness on Foot, 85 254 Gizycki, P. von: 'The Munich Karakoram expedition 1970', 76186 (with K. Schreckenback) 'Dhaulagiri III', 80 198 Glaciers: advance & retreat of Alpine, 7975 study of Cordilleran, 79 272 movement of, art. 82 65 an early view of, 86 65-8 variations & volcanic eruptions, 87228 see also Science Notes Glasek, K.: (with J. Ferenski) 'Victory & Tragedy on Broad Peak', 82 129 Gleckstein hut: 86 118-9 'Gliding and mountains': art. 7991 Glockner Gross: 1st & 2nd ski descents of Pallavicini Couloir, 74349; 7532 winter asc. in 1875, 80231 history of & ascs., art. with photos, 82 189 Gluschaint, Piz: an octogenarian asc. of, art. 83 178 Gobbi, T.: death, 75285 obit. & port., 76 226 Golash Zorn: 1st asc., 74 216 Geill: 1st ski descent of whole of E face, 75 33 Goodfellow, B.R.: obit. & port. 78 285 art. on with photos, 82 199 Goodwin, B.: his book: Life among the Pathans, 85 253 Goodwin, Col. E.R.: his reminiscences available, 75 186 Gore, J.: 'A Calling', 9243 Gore-Tex: assessment of, 84245
Gouter hut: best route to, 76 192 Graham, Bob, round: Lake District fell running record, 81 41 Gran Paradiso: history, 82 133-5 asc. & traverse, 82 137-8 Grand Canyon: 87 122-6 Grant, Lt.Col. R.H.: obit. 87263 Gray, D.: poems, 7435, 123; 75282; 9086; 92 84 'The Himalayan Ethic', 76 156 'The future of British climbing in the 1970's', 78 89 'Some psychological aspects of advanced rock climbing', 82 88 'Climbing and competition', 83112 'Competition Climbing', 91 198 his book: Rope Boy, 76299 Greece: guidebook to mountains, 88 244 climbing in, art. 92 136 guidebook notes, 92 250 Green, W.S.: his book: High Alps of New Zealand, 82 264 Greene, R.: his book: Moments of Being, 80290 obit. 88280 Greenland: notes & climbs: 74276 79260 75237 80271 76249 89222 77254 asc. of Majorteqe, 80203 Triennial Report 1973-5, 81206 climbing in, art. 89 104 climing in E, art. 90 161 expedition to Milne Island, art. 92189 M.E.F. notes, 92 238 Greenwood, A.: 'Round Annapurna - the Climbing Party', 87 193 'AC Garhwal Meet, Sept-Oct 1986', 9285 Greenwood, B.: 'Calgary Climber', 75 101 Greenwood, H.D.: obit. 86263 Greig, A.: his books: Summit Fever and Kingdoms of Experience Everest the Unclimbed Ridge, 92262 Greig, J.: 'Silvanus Thompson Alpine painter', 81 116 Greitbauer, K.: his book: Das Ganze der Alpinen Idee, 81 266 Grepon, Aig. de: 1st asc. in 1881, 86214
GENERAL INDEX
Grey-Wilson, c.: 'A Botanical Expedition to the Wakhan Corridor', 8897 Griffin, A.H.: his book: Adventuring in Lakeland, 89 246 Griffin, L.: 'Wakhan 1977', 84 36 'Events and trends in the Alps', 84 211; 88 185 'The High Atlas', 88 206 'Alpine Guidebook Notes', 88217 'The Traverse of Kangde Shar', 8940 'Twenty four hours in Trevelez', 89116 'Alpine Guidebook Notes', 89230 (with J. Brailsford) 'Ten Dauphine Ice Climbs', 87 180 'The Sosbun Glacier Region', 9149 'The Sierra Nevada de Merida', 9220 compiler: 'Guidebook Notes', 91231; 92 244 Griffiths, B.W.J.: 'Epicures on the Lauper route', 77 139 Griffon, P.: his book: Randonnees Pedestres dans Ie Luberon, 90 263 Grigna: description of, 76 169 art. on Italian climbing, 83 106 Grindley, E.: his book: Winter Climbs - Ben Nevis and Glencoe, 87257 Grivola: asc. of N ridge, 81 198 decapitated, 86 245 Grossen, H.: his book: L'Oberland Bernois, 89250 Grosshorn: 1st British asc. by N face direct, 76 198 Grossman, R.: obit. 81269 Groughs: description of, 80 72 Guardian, El: asc.;78 81 Guha, Mrs S.: death, 76224 Guichon, Francoise: her book: Montagne Photographs 1845-1914, 90 278 Guide Books: a publisher's comments, 74347 comment about Italian guidebooks, 76 203 review of, 92 275 see list on pp. 75-81 Guides Books (Fiihrerbiicher): in archives of Alpine Club, 7876-7 Gumachi: summit reached, 86 130 Gumbaz-e-Safed: by NW face, 75172
25
Gunnbjorns Fjeld: 2nd asc., 77 255 Gurja Himal: 1st asc., 75 17, 196 2nd asc., 78 242 Gurkha Parbat: 1st asc., 7925,27 Gurung, H.: his books: Annapurna to Dhaulagiri, 75310 Vignettes of Nepal, 86254 Gwynne, H.A.: 'Mountaineering in Winter; some expeditions in the Lake District', 84 177 Gyatso, S.: death, 74395 HABELER, P.: his book: EverestImpossible Victory, 85 250 Hagen, T.: his book: Report on the Geological Survey of Nepal, 75300 Haggsta: climbs on, 77 187 Hagshu Kishtwar Himalayan Expedition 1983: 89 189 Haig, I.: 'A Journey through Zanskar', 88139 'A Winter Journey through East Nepal', 91 103 obit. 92306 Hall, B.: 'British 1980 Expedition to Baltoro Kangri', 86 198 'Nepal 1983', 89 197 'Nepal 1984', 90 216 'Nepal 1985', 91 203 'Nepal 1986', 92203 Hall, D.O.W.: death, 78264,281 Hall, V.: his book: A Scrapbook of Snowdonia, 88 238 Hankinson, A.: 'The Keswick brothers', 7955 his books: Camera on the Crags, 81230 The Mountain Men. An early history of rock climbing in North Wales, 83264 Hannibal: comment on his route in the Alps, 82 257 Hannigan, c.: 'Winter on Annapurna IV', 88 177 Hanuman Tibba: ascs., 75 193; 76225 Hanwell, J.D.: 'Eighty years of British caving', 80 111 Hara, M.: (with M. Asami) 'Makalu - the first ascent by the SE ridge', 76 35 Haramukh: asc., 75 186 Haranboi Zorn: 1st asc., 74 187
26
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Harber, M.; 'The South West Ridge of Huascaran Sur', 88 157 obit. 91 285; 92 281 Harding, J.G.R.: 'Antipodean Ventures I. Western Australia', 7928 'Antipodean Ventures II. The Snowy Mountains', 81 100 'Antipodean Ventures III. Mt Cook', 82 55 'Mountains of Paradise', 82 133 'Cirques and Caftons of the Pyrenees', 86 71 his book: (editor with others) Avalanche, 87 258 'Olympian Triad', 92 236 Hardy, L.; 'The British-Indian Police Himalayan Expedition 1986', 92 79 Harford, D.: 'Oberland Climbs in the 1880's', 86 115 Hargreaves, A.J.: 'Women on the Rocks', 88 128 'Small Faces, Big Dreams', 89 126 Harper, A.; his book; Walking Guide to the Tour of Mont Blanc, 85253 Harper, F.: 'First ascent of Ali Ratni Tibba 1969', 75 9 Harries, J.: 'Optical phenomena for Mountaineers', 77 39 Harris, S.L.; his book;'Fire and Ice - The Cascade Volcanoes, 87250 Harriss, Barbara: 'The Theodulpass: a history', 75 87 'The Monte Moro Pass and the Col d'Herens', 76 127 'Travel and Trade in the Pennine Alps', 77 175 Hart, J.L.J.: obit. 92314 Hart-Davis, D.: his novel: The Heights of Rimring, 87 258 Hartley, H.K.: obit. & port., 92311 Hartley, N.: his book: The Viking Process, 83 262 Hartog, J.M.: obit. 92301 Harvard, A.: his book: (with T. Thompson) Mountains of Storms, 82262 Haskett Smith, W.P.: 'The Napes Pinnacle', 81 53 'Cragwork in Cumberland', 82 42 Hasse, D.: 'Climbing in the Elbsandsteingebirge (East Germany)', 83140
74-92
Hastenrath, S.: his book: The Glaciers of Equatorial East Africa, 91 254 Haston, D.: his books: In High Places, 78 272 The Eiger, 81 264 novel: Calculated Risk, 85257 (with D. Scott) 'South Face of Mt McKinley 1976', 82 173 a tribute, 83 132 Hauck, W.: death, 79256 Hauser, G.: his book: (with M. Klotz) Die Hiitten des Deutschen Alpenvereins, 75316 Haute Route: on ski, art. 87 20 Hauteroche: crag near Paris, 86 157 Hawksley, J.C.: 'Guide book on the shelf', 77 160 'A note on the mountains of Sinai', 80145 Hayden, D.E.: his book: Wordsworth's Walking Tour of 1790,90264 Hayes, Mt: 1st asc. of SW face, 83242 Hazard, J. de V.: death, 74350 Heath, C.M.: 'The Colombian Andes - Nevado del Huila Pico la Cresta', 88 161 Heckmair, A.: 'Main German & Austrian Climbs since 1930', 7447 his books: My Life as a Mountaineer, 80289 Bergsteigen fiir Anfanger und Fortgeschrittene, 82262 Hederatus: his book: Cambridge Night-climbing, 76308 Helburn, Margaret: obit. & port., 86 265 Heller, M.: his book (editor): The Illustrated Encyclopaedia of Ice Skating, 85255 Helmets: British Standard for climbers, 74 319 difficulty of hearing with a climbing, 75 274 Hemming, G.: obit. & port., 75342 Hensler's Passage: major breakthrough in caving, 80 115 Heppenstall, A.; 'Outcrop climbing from Rome', 77 188 'In Terra de Romagne', 78 121
GENERAL
Hepper, c.: 'Stamps,-covers and cachets from Mount Everest', 8453 'Stamps, covers and cachets from Mount Everest Part II', 85 110 Hepplewhite, W.: obit. 78289 Herbert, H.R.: obit. 88258 Herbert, W.E.: obit. 82266 Herens, Col d': history, 76 130 Hetman, K.: 'Sandstone rocks in Czechoslovakia', 78 116 Herrligkoffer, Prof. Dr.: 'The East Pillar of Nanga Parbat', 89 21 Hervis Peak: 1st asc., 79 17 Hewitt, N.: 'The first ascent of Dibibokri Pyramid, Kulu 1978', 85115 Hex River Mtns: ascs. in, 75 74 Hidden Valley, the: expedition to, 79 189 Hielo Patagonico del Norte: first N-S crossing, 79 143 High altitude: a study of the effects of, 83 158 High-level route: variation on, 76 200 Higuchi, H.: 'The first ascent of Yalung Kang', 8017 Hillary, E.: his books: Nothing Venture, Nothing Win, 84 262 From the Ocean to the Sky, 85 252 (with P. Hillary) Two Generations' 90276 Hillary, P.: his books: A Sunny Day in the Himalayas, 88247 (with G. Dingle) First across the Roof of the World, 89240 Hillman, P.: 'La Grande Dixence', 81 78 'Big Science in the Pyrenees', 84201 'The Colorado Plateau', 87 121 Hilton-Jones, B.: obit. 76 329 Himachal Pradesh: Indo-Japanese Ladies expedition 1968, 74 226 AMA expedition to, 1973, 79 21 summary of ascs. by AMA, 79 26 Himal Chuli: ascs. of NE Peak, 76229 1st asc. listed, 89 185 Himalaya: seen from Apollo 7, 75 65 rules governing expeditions, 74230-3; 75 199 definition of peak for records, 75280
INDEX
27
Himalaya: the expedition ethic, 76 156 winds of change in, art. 78 57 new climbs in Indian, 80264 and power politics, 80 285-6 small expeditions in, art. 84 166 winter climbing in, 89 207 Indian, historic appraisal, art. with photos, 89 208 index gazetteer of place names, mountains etc., 90 274 area notes, Nepal 1985, 91203 M.E.F. notes: 88 213; 89 189; 90 247; 91 228; 92 240 Alpine Club Garhwal meet 1986, 9285 see also Special Districts pp. 69-74 Himalayan Club: golden jubilee, 83255 Hinchliff Memorial: 84253 Hindu Kush: notes, new climbs & expeditions: 74 195 80263 75165 81239 76210 82237 77 245 83 236-7 78238 84224 79254 85221 maps, 74 196; 77 170 British expedition to Central, 1971, 77 170 youth in the, 78266 winter in the, 79 11 Alpine style, 79 111 Spanish expedition, 79 199 Shkawr and Koh e Nadir Si'ih, traverse of & new route, 82211; ill. 82 210, 212 Anglo-Polish expedition, 84 137 Hindu Raj: ascs. in, 76218 climbs in the Thui range, 82 115; ill. 82 117 Hinings, R.: 'South African Days', 87 109 Hiunchuli: 1st asc., 77 249 Hjortsberg, W.: his book: Alp, 80292 Hoare, R.D.: 'Majorteqe (Peak BOOm) 1974', 80203 'Karakoram inflation', 83208 Hoare, Rick: 'Blubber and Boats', 89 104 Hoare, Rupert: (with D. Fordham) 'Failure on Forel', 90 161
28
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Hobbs, P.V.: his book: Ice Physics, 82261 Hockenhull, H.K.: obit. 86266 Hodgkin, R.A: poem, 75 70 his book: Reconnaissance on an Educational Frontier, 76310 'Mountains and Education', 86 201 Hoeman, G.: death, 77 297 Hoeman, J.V.: obit. 75332 Hogan, J.M.: his book: Impelled into Experiences: the Story of the Outward Bound Schools, 74372 Hoggar: new routes in, 76 207; 87216 correction re Garet-el-Djenoun, 77 243 descriptive art. 79 103; 83 43 notes, 79227 Holland, G.S.: Map of Mt Everest Region (Scale 1:100,000),82261 Holloway, J.T.: obit. 83269 Hopkins, D.: 'Kusum Kanguru, a Lightweight Expedition', 90 105 Hopkirk, P.: his book: Trespassers on the Roof of the World, 89248 Hornbein, T.F.: his book: Everest - the West Ridge, 86 256 Horniblow, P.J.: 'In the steps of Shipton', 84 154 Houston, C.S.: 'Long-lasting effects of high altitude climbing. Fact or fancy?', 83 158 his books: (with R.Bates) K2 - the Savage Mountain, 85 252 Going High (the story of man & altitude), 87 252 (editor) High Altitude Physiology Study - Collected Papers, 87 255 Going Higher, 90 266 Houston, 0.: death, 75 344 Howard, T.: his book: Walks and Climbs in Romsdal Norway, 76315 'The Mountains of Wadi Rum', 91109 Howell, I.: 'Return to the Alps', 76 105 'After Everest: de-acclimatisation climbs in East Africa', 77 80 Howick of Glendale, Lord: obit. 79281 Howser, North: by SW face, 76240 Hoyle, F.: 'On men and mountains', 74 23 his book: Ice, 88 245
74-92
Huagaruncho: 2nd asc. & traverse, 76 243 Huallanca, Cordillera: expedition, 74 253 Huandoy: asc., 82 167 Huandoy Sor: attempts by S face, 74250; 79 139 ill. 74251; 79 140 1st asc. by S face, 83243 Huascanln: 1st asc. by W arete, 75 131 by E face direttissima, 79 39 by SW ridge, 88 160 Huayhuash, Cordillera: ascs. by NZ expedition, 74 255 Huber, F.: 'Dhaulagiri 2',77 168 Hudson, J.: death, 75 343 Huila, Nevado del: attempt, 75 210 asc., 76241 height questioned, 82 51 Humble, B.H.: his book: The Cuillins of Skye, 92267 Hunt, AS.: 'Climb High Down Under', 91 133 Hunt, J.: 'Mountaineering and Risk', 86 3 'Round Annapurna - Hamish Nicol's Group', 87 195 'Protection of the Himalayan Environment' - a paper read to the U.I.A.A Commission, 8857 (with D. Gray) 'The 50th Anniversary Celebration of the Union Internationale des Associations d' Alpinisme', 8855 his books: Life is Meeting, 85247 My favourite Mountaineering Stories, 85 252 Hunter, Mt: attempt, 74244 1st asc. of N face, 83241 Hunter, R.: his book: Walking in France, 88242 Huntford, R.: his book: Scott and Amundsen, 86256 Hunza: problems for travellers, 82 158 Husbands, A.: 'Pico Ruivo Interlude', 92 163 Hut statistics: from Switzerland, 83 256 ICE AGES: in the British Isles. 86240
GENERAL
Ice-axes: weakness of wooden shafts, 74332-8
newall-metal, 76 274 failures, 85 237 Ice-climbing: new techniques & equipment, 77 75 in N America, history of, 88246 guide to waterfall ice climbs in Canadian Rockies, 88244 Iceland: volcanic activity, 85239 ski-touring, 86 121 snow & ice climbing, 86 123 M.E.F. note, 92 239 Ice-pitons: date of first use, 74 324; 75 31 Ikerasagssuag Fjord: climbing opportunities, 89 106 Illampu: 1st asc. by S ridge, 75 222 by E face, accident, 78 204 Illimani: 1st asc.by N ridge, 75222 Illingworth, R.N.: his book: Expedition Medicine, 90274 Inada, S.: 'A month on Trisul', 85 193 Indar Kila: 1st asc., 75 193 India: an historic appraisal of the Indian Himalaya, 89 208 ill. 89 between 208 & 209 Triennial report 1972-74, 80 239 mountaineering in: 1983-84, 90 226 1985,91206 1986, 92208
Indo-Tibet Border Police: 80239-41 Indonesia: mountaineering in, 81 35; map, 81 36, 37 Indrasan: 2nd asc., 1st by W ridge, art. 7734 3rd asc., 2nd by W ridge, 7738 Japanese asc., 78240 1st & 2nd ascs. by E ridge, 79 21, 27 Infanti, de, S.: his book: Daile Ferrate al 6° Grado, 84263 Ingolfsfjeld: 1st asc., 77 255 attempt by S face, 79260 asc. of SW outlier of, 79 260 International Directory of Mountaineering Clubs and Organizations: 85253
Intervisibility: explanation of, 77 172 extreme examples of, 79275; 80284-5
Iran: 4000 metre peaks in Southern, art. 84 187 women's lib in reverse, 87 233
INDEX
29
Ireland: notes, 74 304; 80275 mountaineering in, art. 85 162 guidebook to rock-climbing in, 91262
Irghil M'Goun, Morocco: mountaineering on, art. 843 Irvine, A.c.: his diaries published, 85 249 Irving, F.G.: 'Memories of Arolla and Fafleralp', 86 188 Irving, R.L.G.: obit. & port., 75333 Ishak, H.: 'Mountaineering in Indonesia', 81 35 Isherwood, R.J.: 'Direttissima on the Piz Badile', 74 1 'The Dugundugoo', 78 188 'Lamjung Himal', 80 37 'Kanjiroba', 83 37 'Buni Zorn', 85 147 Ishinca, Nevado: asc., 7441 Ishmurg Valley: expedition to, 75 177 Ishpel Dome (Pechus glacier): asc., 74217 Istor-o-Nal: 2nd & 1st women's asc., 74 196 1st ascs., 75 166 amendment of earlier reports, 75168
by new direct route on S face, 77245
Italian climbing: between the wars, 77 149 Italy: mountaineering in central, art. 78121
major mountain groups, 78 122 Ives, J.D.: his book: (editor with R.G. Barry) Arctic and Alpine Environments, 82262 JACKSON, J.A.: 'Sherpas & Skis', 91 101 'Meconopsis', 91 160 Jaeger, N.: obit. & port., 87264 Jagatsukh: asc., 7922,27 Jager, F.: death on Manaslu, 7920 James, R.: his book: Rock climbing in Wales, 76316 Jannu: 1st asc. of N face, 82 241 asc. in 1978, 85 77; ills. 85 78, 80 1st asc. listed, 89 185 Japan: mountaineering in, 79 128; 81 59 mountains of, map, 79 130-1 a social visit, 87 231
INDEX
30
TO VOLUMES
Japanese Journal of Mountain Medicine, 88 243 Japanese Railway Workers Karakoram Expedition: 'A first ascent of Pruppoo-Brukh (c.7000m)', 84118 Jardine, M.: 'An Electrifying Experience', 92117 Jarvis, E.C.L.: death, 78 264 obit. 79282 Jatunhuma I: 1st asc. of W face, 89 188 Jean Bernard Cave, Haute Savoie: deepest in world, 87 233 Jeannette, Mt: 1st asc., 74 214 Jenkinson, B.: death, 79256 Jeong-Tai, K.: 'Mountains & Mountaineering in South Korea', 8355 Jerome, J.: his book: On Mountains - thinking about terrain, 85 251 Jeudwine, W.R.H.: obit. 90281 Jiazi: attempt, 87 117 Jirishanca: 1st asc. by W face, 75 8 ill. 75 2, 5 by SE wall, 79258 Jogin I: 1st & 2nd ascs., 76 225 Jogin III: 2nd & 3rd ascs., 76225 Johchi, University A.c., members of: 'Patagonian Ice Cap 197172',79237 John, B.S.: his book: The Ice Age past and present, 83262 Johnson, A.: 'Indrasan West ridge Expedition 1971', 77 34 Johnson, B.: his book: (with O. Skjerren) Lyngsalpene, 90263 Jones, Barbara: 'Tharkot, an expedition to the Garhwal', 90 100 Jones, c.: 'Yerupaja, the Amazon face: the British-American expedition', 74 15 'Fitzroy 1968', 74 131 'The Salathe Wall', 75 25 his book: Climbing in N America, 82 260; 85 252 Jones, D.: his book: Rock Climbing in Britain, 90 272 Jones, J.H. Emlyn: as President of Alpine Club, Valedictory Address, 889
Jones, M.: his book: Canoeing down Everest, 85251 Jones, O.G.: his death on Dent Blanche 1899, 87 16-17
74-92
Jones, R.B.: obit. & port., 91 283 Jones, T.: his book: (with G. Milburn) Welsh Rock, 92257 Jorasses, Grandes: 1st asc. by N wall in 1935, 74 50 1st solo asc. of Walker spur, 74175 Pte. Croz: 1st British asc. by N face, 75 138 Pte. Helene: 1st asc. by N face, 77 61, ill. 77 62 Journals: review of 1971, 77 283 South American Mountain, 86 250 Jouty, S.: 'The history of altitude', 86 90 Jugoslavia: guidebook to traverse of Siovenian Mts., 88 245 history of climbing in, art. with photos, 92 182 Julian Alps: visit to, & description of, 82 95, ill. Triglav, 82 94 Jumars: accident, & safety problems with, 74307 Jiingfraujoch: Palais de Cristal on, 84252 Junction Peak (Dhaula Himal): asc., 78241 Jura: description of, & climbs in, 78146 Jurak, J.: 'Mountains & rocks in Czechoslovakia', 8273 'The Palava Rocks', 82 143 K2: attempt, 82 237 Polish expedition to, in 1976, art. 838 2nd asc., 83 237 asc. by American expedition in 1978, art. 84 52 British expedition abandoned 1978, 84225 climbed by R. Messner, 85 221 filming on N face of, 89 18 1st asc. listed, 89 184 book review, 89 247 ill. 82 129; 83 10; 89 between 16 & 17 K6: 1st asc., 76 149 Kackar: attempt, 86 165 Kaghan: expedition to, 78 185, 240 Kailas Parbat: asc., 74 226 Kakhari: asc., 74 188 Kalanka: attempt, 81 74 Kamet: 3rd asc., 79 254; 80 242 1st asc. listed, 89 185
GENERAL
Kanai, H.: his book: Index Gazetteer of the Himalaya, 90 274 Kangbachen: attempt, 79 255 climbed, 80 36 geology of Massif, 8030-31; map, 80 28; ill. 80 33, 35 Kangchenjunga: 1st asc. of W peak, 79 255 heights of local mountains, 79 256 2nd asc., 83 240 Polish expedition 1978, art. 85 43 1st asc. of S summit, 85 48 1st asc. of central summit, 85 48 British expedition 1979, art. 8549 main summit ascended by new route, 85 57, 224 Spanish expedition 1978, art. 86177 1st asc. listed, 89 184 ill. 85 45; 86 181 Kangchungtse (Makalu II): 1st asc. listed, 89 186 Kangde Hiunchuli: 2nd asc., 78 241 Kangde Shar: traverse of, art. 89 40 Kanjiroba Himal: expedition to, 75 114 1st asc. of highest summit, 76 227 1st asc. in, 77 248 2nd asc. of highest summit, 79 255 1st asc. of un-named peak, 79 255 asc. of highest summit, 82240; 83 42; ill. 83 39, map, 83 38 Kanjut Sar: climbed, 88 180 1st asc. listed, 89 185 Kapadia, H.: 'The Eastern Karakoram', 91 33 'India 1985', 91 206 'India 1986', 92 208 Karabiner: its evolution in Alpine History, 74320 Karakol Lakes: 86 12 Karakoram: notes & new climbs: 74225 84225 75185 85221 76219 86224 77246 87241 79254 88192 80263 89212 81239 90222 82237 91208 83237 92210 expedition to NW, 1970, 76 163 Polish expedition 1975, 82 129 British Ogre expedition 1977, 833 1st asc. of Ogre, 83 7
INDEX
31
Karakoram: accident, 83 7 heights questioned, 83 11 costs of travel in, 83 208 highway opened, 84252 British expedition to Baltoro Kangri 1980, art. 86 198 International Project, 86 240 British West Karakoram expedition 1981, 87 132 attempt on Thaime Chish, 87 133-5 West of the Baltoro, art. 88 194 maps, 89 76; 90 65, 66, 68 ill. 90 between 64 & 65 history of climbing in Eastern, art. 9133 excursions & climbs from the K. highway, art. 91 46 Alpine Club meet to, 1985, art. 9153 M.E.F. notes, 88 216; 90 249; 91 229; 92 242 Alpine Club symposium, 92317 1st traverse of Chogolisa, art. 9274 see also Special Districts pp. 69-74 Karatash Peak: climbed, 86 16 Karposhte-Yakhi: asc., 76216 ski asc. from W, 77 111 Kashmir: notes & new climbs: 74225 83238 75186 84225 76219 86225 77247 87222 78240 89189 82238 a walk in, art. 76 222 Keay, J.: his books: When Men and Mountains Meet and The Gilgit Game, 85254 Keenlyside, F.: 'The Heart of the Matter', 78 168 'To Silver Turn'd', 84 157 his book: Peaks and Pioneers, 81232 Keighly, J.H.: (with G. Steele) 'The functional and design requirements of clothing 1', 86 138 'The properties and performance of Mountain Rescue Bags', 88153 Kekus, N.: 'Kalanka, Alpine Style', 88 135 'Annual Leave - Ganesh II South Face', 9071 Kellas, A.: 'Rokapi 1974', 80 219
32
INDEX
TO VOLUMES 74-92
Kelly, H. M.: obit. 86 263 Kelsey, M.R.: his book: Guide to the World's Mountains, 91254 Kemp, C.: 'Triennial Report 1971-3. Africa', 79 219 'Summers in and around the Swiss Pre-alps', 84 92 Kemsley. Freda: obit. 84268 Kenai Range: ascs. in, 74240 Kennedy, Mt (Yukon): by N face, 74 242 Kenya, Mt: notes & new climbs: 74182 82235 75149 83236 76208 84223 77244 85220 78235 86223 80260 87218 81236 Triennial report 1971-73, 79225 1st asc. of Diamond Couloir, 7783-5 1st winter asc. of S ridge, 77 244 definition of Grand Traverse of, 85220 1st complete asc. by Diamond Couloir, 79 225 Cambridge expedition to, 86 242 'Through the Ice Window to Nelion', art. 91 116 M.E.F. note, 92 243 Kerr, Faye: obit. 88283 Kersten Glacier: asc. of Kilimanjaro by, 82 171-3 Kesch, Piz: asc., 78 135 Keswick brothers: art. 79 55 note on the Abrahams, 80 284 Khandut Valley: ascs. from, 75 177 Khanna, yc.: his book: Saser Kangri, 87 255 Kharkhyra Peaks, Mongolia: ref. to & map, 86 104-5 Khergiani, M.: death, 75 344 port. 75345 Khinyang Chhish: 1st asc., 77 21; 89 185 ill. 77 25 Kholi: asc. of Pt. 19,879ft., 74229 Khumbu Himal: map of, 74 235 Khwaja Muhammad Group: ascs. in, 75 178 Kilimanjaro: ascs., 74 182; 79225 notes, 84 223; 85 221 asc. by blind boys, 74 182 Mawenzi: 1st asc. by middle
Kilimanjaro: buttress of E face, 75 150 complete S-N traverse, 76 138 by E face, 76 209 W-E traverse of Kibo & Mawenzi, 7782 1st asc. of N icefield, 78 166 Kibo: new routes on, 78236 by Kersten glacier, 82 171-3 glacier recession on, art. 87 54 Kimball, Mt: 5th attempt on, 74 243 Kimbrey, J.: 'Joint Services expedition to Brabant Island', 91139 Kinabalu, Mt: big wall rock climbing possibilities, 89 190 Kinder Scout: marathon walks on, 8071-82 King, J.: 'Avalanche on Ben Nevis', 86146 King, T.: his book: In the Shadow of the Giants, 88250 King, W.: 'New Zealand 1984-5', 91225 'New Zealand 1985-6', 92 236 Kingman, H.S.: obit. 74392 Kirstein, W.: 'Sixty years off-piste', 75 124 'Piz Badile for the over-seventies' 7748 'Once again, Engadine and Bregaglia', 78 133 'Three times lucky', 79 65 'One of the geriatric eccentrics', 81 125 'Piz Balzetto, Bregaglia', 82197 'Too much snow on Piz Gliischaint', 83178 'Albigna Valley - 1978', 84183 'Cacciabella', 85 199 'Crevasse Danger', 86 183 'For how much longer', 87 6 obit. & port., 89 269 Kishmi Khan: 1st asc. by SSW buttress, 75 174 Kishtwar: expedition to, art. with photos & map, 75 186 British women's expedition to, 1970, 76223 1971 expedition, art. with photos, 77164 exploration, art. incl. two new peaks climbed, 83 206 notes & new climbs, 85 223 British expedition 1979, art. with
GENERAL
Kishtwar: map, 86181 asc. of Kishtwar-Shivling, art. with photos, 89 34 traverse of Kishtwar-Himalaya with asc. of Peak 6240m, art. 8935; maps, 8936, 38-9 Klotz, M.: his book: (with G. Hauser) Die Hutten der Deutschen Alpenvereins, 75 316 Knowles, D.: obit. 80304 Koblmiiller, E.: 'The ascent of K6', 76 149 'Huascaran, E face direttissima', 7939
Kodama, S.: 'Rakaposhi from the North', 86185
'Bogdo Ola Group Survey', 88 70 Kogan, Claude: climbing career, 83 82-5 Koh-e-James: 2nd asc., 74215 Koh-i-Andaval: asc., 74212 Koh-i- Bandaka: asc. & accident, 74 196 attempts, 76 214 ascs., 79254; 84 139; ill. 84 138 Koh-i-Bandaka Zeraghan: 1st asc., 79 254 Koh-i-Hevad: 2nd asc., 74213 Koh-i-Jashin: asc., 74213 Koh-i-Kesnikhan: asc., 76215 Koh-i-Khaiik: by N face, 79 111 Koh-i-Laksh: 1st asc., 74216 Koh-i-Mina: now known as Kohe Dusti, 75 179 Koh-i-Mondi: by N face, 79112 Koh-i-Murchech: 1st asc. by W ridge, 76 213 Koh-i-Myiani: 2nd asc., 74213 Koh-i-Ogaki: asc., 74 195 Koh-i-Stara: asc., 74226 Koh-i-Tundy Shagai Sha: 2nd asc., 74 195 Kohe Mandaras: asc." 84 138; ill. 84 136 Kohe Skhawr: new routes, art. 84 172 Kohistan: expeditions, with map, 74 187 Kohli, Capt. M.S.: his books: The Himalayas. Playgrounds of the Gods, 89241; 91 257 Trek the Himalayas, 91257
INDEX
33
Kolahoi: ascs., 74226; 83175 schoolboys expedition to, art. 83174
Kommunizma, Pik: see Communism Peak Komprej, Irena: 'Aconcagua South Face', 89 157 Kongen: 1st asc. by E face direct, 74 150 Kongur, Mt: expedition to, art. with photos & map, 867 1st asc., 87 224 historical background, 88 65 1st asc. listed, 89 185 Korea, South: mountaineering in, art. 8355; map, 8355 expeditions overseas, 83 63 Kotgaz-Chhutidum Glacier: 1st asc. of Pt. 5681m, 74 205 Kotgaz glacier: ascs. from & maps, 74 203, 204-5 Koyo Zorn: correct height, 74216 1st asc., 74 217 2nd asc., 75 179 Kramarsic, J.: his books: Bibliography of Colorado Mountain Ascents 1863-1976 Bibliography of Colorado Rock Climbs and lee Climbs 18631976', 90 267 Krawczyk, c.: his book: Mountaineering - A Bibliography of Books in English to 1974, 83264
Kristians glacier: ascs. from, art. with photos & maps, 74 276 Krog, W.: 'Climbing in Rhodesia', 77 86 Kuffner, S.: obit. 83 269 Kulu: notes, 74 226; 84 225 1st asc. of Mukar Beh, 74 58 1st asc. of Ali Ratni Tibba, 75 9, 193
1st asc. of Parvati Peak, 75 56; map 75 54 1st asc. of two rock peaks, Pt. 5711m & Pt. 5692m, 77 38 ascs., 78240-3; 82 85-7 Kumar, Col. N.: his books: Kangchenjunga - First Ascent from the North-East Spur, 85254 Nilakantha, the first ascent, 88 243 Kunde Hospital, Nepal: cases at, 89 80
34
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
Kurczab, J.: 'Shispare climbed', 80 223 'Polish K2 expedition 1976', 838 Kus, A.: 'The Polish Karakoram expedition 1969', 76 181 'The Battle for Khinyang Chhish', 77221 (with J. Nyka) 'Note on the history of Polish Alpinism', 78107 'British Alpinists in the Tatra', 79153 Kusum Kanguru: 1st asc. of NE ridge to E summit, 89 189 expedition, art. with photos & map, 90 105 Kuthi Valley project 1968: 74230 Kuzel, de: death, 76 193 Kvandalstind: 1st asc. by NE face, 74172 LA CHAPELLE, E.R.: his book: The ABC of A valanche Safety, 85250 Labande, F. : his books: 100 Sommets, 83262 Grandes Courses, 87 256 Lachenko, c.: his book: (with others) Escalades en Vallee de ['Anglin, 83234 Ladakh: travelling in, & topography, art. 85 129; maps, 85 131, 135 Ladies Alpine Club: merger with Alpine Club, 81 257; 83 89 Lahul: 1st asc. of Peak 18,977ft., 75 43 Lake District: new climbs, 80275 fell running, art. 81 40 winter mountaineering in (1892 art.), 84 177 The Lake Dis~rict Discovered 1810 -1850, catalogue of exhibition, 89 252 Lalana (Bara Shigri): 1st asc., 76224 Lall, J.S.: his book (editor): The Himalaya, 90 262 Lambley, D.G.: obit. 88279 Lamjung Himal: 1st asc., 8042 ill. 80 38, 40 Lampak Group: ascs. in, 74230; 75 195 Lamtrang Lirung: 1st asc., 84 232 Lancaster, R.: his book: Plant Hunting in Nepal, 87 259
Langar: 2nd asc. of highest summit, 74 203 Langmuir, E.: his books: Mountain Leadership, 75 310 Mountaincraft and leadership, 90275 Languedoc limestone: 80 218 Lapuch, K.: 'Some extreme ski runs', 7531 Latok Peaks: Latok II: attempted, 83 114 ill. 83 119 1st asc., 83 238 Latok I: climbed by new route, 85222 Latok III: 1st asc., 85222 Latok IV: accident on, 86 194 Lauge Koch, Mt: asc., 75 237 Lauterbrunnen Breithorn: in winter, 81 48 Lauterbrunnen Valley: in the 18th century, 8661-3 Lavaredo, The Cima di: Cima Grande: by direttissima & superdirettissima, 74 55 by Saxonweg, 74 179 Cima Ovest: N face, 1st asc. over the roof, 74 56 1st British asc. by Rudolf-Baur route, 75 59, 146 1st asc. (1879), 84 207 Lawrie, R.: obit. & port., 88 260 Le Blond, Mrs Aubrey: climbing career, 81 97 Leahy, E.P.: 'On the Juneau Ice-field', 92 192 Leclerq, B.: his book: La Montagne. Bibliographie Belge, 90 263 Lee, c.: his book: On Edge - the life and climbs of Henry Barber, 91246 Lee, Dorothy: obit. 88256; 89 260 Leeming, P.: 'Salcantay: SW Face', 9227 Lefebure, Molly: her book: Cumberland Heritage, 76309 Legless Climber in Peru: 84 255 Leith, Hon. E.: obit. & port. 88283 Lenin, Peak: international meet in area of, 75 162; 80 89 asc. by new route, 75 163 Leopold III, King of Belgium: obit. 89260 Lepidoptera: of the Northern Andes, ill. art. 89 90 Leppert, Z.: his guidebook: O,l?wen,88 251
GENERAL INDEX
Lesniak, E.: (editor) guide book: Yorkshire Gritstone, 89 255 Lester, J.T.: 'Personality and Everest', 74 101 Levy, H.B.L.: obit. 84268 Lewis, J.E.L.: obit. 87265 Lewis-Lloyd, Emmeline: climbing career, 81 96 Lhakpa Tsering: death, 76 229 Lhotse: 1st attempt on S Wall, 79255 winter attempt, 81 241 Polish expedition 1974, 82 28; ill. 8229, 31, 33 2nd asc., 83 240 1st asc. listed 89 184 attempt on W face, 89 59, 189 Lhotse Shar: 1st asc., 76 232 attempt, 77 249 Lightning: effects of, art. 80 173 literature on, 80174 protection from, 80 180 Ligoncio, Pizzo: 1st British asc. by WNW face direct, 76 107, 202 Lines of sight: longest on surface of earth, 82 257 Linsbauer, A.: death, 75345 Lisney, S.: 'Dental emergencies in the mountains', 8246 Literature, mountaineering: 8115-19,175-9 Litter: in the Alps, 79 272 Littlejohn, P.: his book: (with M. Harber) Pembroke, 87 256 Livesey, P.: extreme rock climber, 83 227-32 his books: French Rock Climbs, 86220 Rock Climbing, 86 257 L1ihirini (Cordillera Real): 1st asc. of S face, 89 188 Lloyd, P.: (with C. Putt) a tribute to H.W. Tilman, 84 132 'Twenty fifth anniversary of first ascent of Mt Everest', 84 250 as President of Alpine Club, Valedictory Address, 853 Lobi, R.: his book: (with H. Merrick) The Alps in Colour, 76 306 Loewy, R.: 'Unveiling of the new Bernard Biner Plague at Zermatt (19 August 1986)', 92 175 Lofoten Islands: ascs. in, 74 169 climbing possibilities, 87 52
35
Logan, H.: his book: The Mt Cook Guidebook, 89255 Logan, Mt: climbed, 81 31 centennial ridge, 1st asc., 83 242 Logan Mts: ascs. in the Southern, with map, ill. art. 74 109 Logistics for expedition leaders: problem, 86 244 solution, 87 233 Long distance walks: Peak District, 8074-9 Longacre, J. K. : 'On foot in Nepal', 84 181 Longevity among climbers: 84 255 Longland, J.: as President of Alpine Club, Valedictory Address, 823 Longstaff, T.: advice quoted, 8652 Lord, D.: 'The Coming Disintegration of Mountaineering', 86 32 Lorry: to Pakistan by, 74 327 Lortscher, F.: 'Mawenzi - a complete traverse from S to N', 76 138 'Kilimanjaro - first ascent of the Northern Ice-field', 78 166 'Twenty years of glacier recession on Kilimanjaro', 87 54 Lost Arrow Chimney: asc., 74 92 Lotschenliicke: crossed on skis, 74 89 Lotus Flower Tower (Logan Mts): by SE face, 74 242 Lovelock, J.: his book: A Caving Manual, 87 258 Lucas, J.P.: obit. 86262 Lucchesi, A.: 'The Calanques', 8521 his book: Escalades a Sugiton. StCyr, 90265 Lucock, P.: 'The Hoggar Mountains 1976-7', 8343 Lukan, K.: his book: The Alps and Alpinism, 74367 Lung damage: and freezing air, 87227 Lunkho group: photos & maps, 74208-11 Lunkho-i-Dosare: 1st asc., 74213 2nd asc., 74 178 Lunkho-i-Hawar: 1st asc. of W & W central peaks, 74213; 75 179 1st asc. of E & E central peaks, 75179 Lunn, Sir A.: 'The Playground of Europe 1871 to 1971',77 1 obit. 80298 his book: The Enchanted Lakes, 83261
36
INDEX
TO VOLUMES 74-92
Lunn, P.: his book: The Guinness Book of Ski-ing, 89 252 Lykeri, Mt: climbed, 83 211 Lynam, J.P.O'F.: 'Mountaineering in Ireland', 85162 his guidebook:'Irish Peaks, 89255 Lyngen Peninsula: mountains of, 8067 Lyon: rock climbing near, 87 136 Lyskamm: the 1877 accident, 82217 M7 (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 75 173 McAndrew, Beatrice M.: obit. 75345 climbing career, 82 108-9 Mac Andrews, S.: death, 79 259 McArtney, J.: obit. & port., 75 346 McClymont, W.G.: death, 76291 McDermott, P.: obit. 75346 Machail: 8935 McInnes, B.: 'Astronomy from Mountains', 89173 McInnes, H.: 'British-Soviet Caucasus Expedition 1970', 76 111 his books: Climb to the Lost World, 80 290 Look Behind the Ranges, 85 256 Scottish Winter Climbs, 89255 International Mountain Rescue Handbook, 90 275 Beyond the Ranges, 90275 Sweep Search, 92270 McIntyre, A.: obit. & port., 88 276 his book: (with D. Scott) The Shishapangma Expedition, 91243 McIver, K.: death, 79 256 McKeith, 'Bugs': obit. 84265 MacKenzie, J.R.: his book: Rock and Ice Climbs in Skye, 88250 McKinley, Mt: 2nd asc. by W rib of S face, 75 206 1st solo & other ascs., 76 239 new route on S face, 82 180-1 ill. 82 174-5 problems of inexperienced climbers, 82 182-3 ref. to in art. 8464-78 ill. 83 opp. 24; 84 68 MacKinnon, T.D.: obit. & port. 87 266 MacLeod, R.: his book: Path of Ghosts, 82262
MacMillan, J.: his poems: Eye to the Hills, 88247 McMorrin, I.: his book: (with C.W.F. Noyce) The World Atlas of Mountaineering, 75298 Macquarie, C.: 'The North Face of Mt Deborah', 83 50 Madeira: asc. of Pico Ruivo, 92 263 Maden, E.: 'Southern Logan Mountains 1968', 74 108 Madri dei Camosci, Torre delle: 1st asc. by NW face, 76 204 Maeder, H.: his book: The Mountains of Switzerland, 75306 Mahli-ka-Parbat: asc., 78 186 Majorteqe: summit reached, 80 207 Makalu: 1st asc. by SE ridge, 7635, 232 3rd asc. & 1st by W ridge, 77 249; 7844
attempts, 7845; 79255 ascs., 82 240 1st ascs., 89 184, 186 ill. 78 53 Maladetta: art. 8984 Malana glacier, South: 1st ascs. in area, 77 248 Malatynski, M.: 'Kangchenjunga South and Central 1978', 85 43 Malawi: climbing in, art. 85 69 Malaysia: new climbs & notes, 83240 Mallory, G.L.: biography, 74365 Malubiting: attempt, 74 218 1st asc. of N peak, 75 185 various expeditions, 76 180-9 1st asc. of W (highest) peak, 77 247; 7854; ill. 78 54 Mammals: of E African Mts, art. 79 179 ill. 79 181-3, 186 Man and the mountain environment: art. 74133 Mana Parbat (Gangotri): asc., 76225 Manang: map of Chulu peaks, 90 98 Manaslu: 2nd asc. & 1st by W wall, 77 26; ill. 77 27; map, 7728 3rd asc. & 1st by S face, 78 241; 7915 accident on, 78241 4th asc., 79 255 Japanese Women's asc., 8098
GENERAL
Manaslu: accident, 80 99 1st asc., 89 184 Mandaras Glacier: 1st asc. of Peak 141 from, 75 174 Manikaren Spires: ascs. in, 7841 description of, 78 43 1st asc. in, 79 254 Manresa Zorn: ascended, 79201, 25· Many Peaks Mt (Australia): ascended, 79 33 Maps: indexed under subject headings and listed under Special Districts at end March, W.: his book: Modern Snow and Ice Techniques, 90 276 (with J. Cunningham) 'New iceclimbing techniques and equipment', 77 75 Marcus, P.: 'Metallized plastic sheeting for use in cold climate survival', 82 126 Marriott, E.H.: obit. & port. 91 286; 92 282 Marriott, M.: his book: Mountains and Hills of Britain, 88246 Marsh, J.: his book: Climbing in Southern Ontario, 87260 Marsh, T.: his book: The Summits of Snowdonia, 90 261 Marshall, J.: 'Dougal Haston - a tribute', 83 132 Martel, E.A.: doyen of European caving, 80 111 Martin, S.: 'Everest - Pre-monsoon', 90 113 Martinelli, M.: his book: (with R.I. Perla) Avalanche Handbook, 85251 Masherbrum: in list of first ascs., 89 185 Mason, Lt. Co!. K.: obit. 82271 Matas, J.: death, 77246 Matsuda, T.: death on Yalung Kang, 8026-7 Matsukata, S.: obit. 79 282 Matterhorn: N face, attempt, 7467 by N face, 75 141; 92 167 winter attempt by W face, 78 8 queues on, 80286 1st guideless asc. (1876), 81225 North Face film, 82265 accident on, 83 234 image of, art. 89113 Maudit, Mt: by SE face, variation to Kagami route, 75 138
INDEX
37
Mauritius: climbing in, 78 161 Mawenzi: see Kilimanjaro Mayo, F.e.: obit. 83270 Mazeaud, P.: his book: Naked before the Mountain, 80 253 Meade, e.: obit. 81 269 Mear, R.: 'Kalanka 1974', 8169 Meconopsis: 91 160 Medical: problems of high altitude, art. 78 153; 83 158 symposium, papers read, 82 257 research on Mt Kongur, art. 8765 lung damage & freezing air, 87 227 aspects of small expeditions, 87237 sherpas & sickness, 89 80 acute mountain sickness, art. 81217; 8968 notes, 90 257 'Does the lung pump oxygen?', art. 91 171 see also entries under Oedema Medicine: books: Medicine for mountaineering, 75 311 Japanese Journal of Mountain Medicine, 88243 Mountain Data Centre information, 91 263 Medlycott, T.A.H.: death, 76 291; 77296 obit. 78289 Mehrbani: summit reached, 83 69 ill. 83 68 Mehta, S.S.: 'Triennial Report 1972-74 Indian Himalaya', 80239 Meije, the: 1st asc. (1877), 82216 Meikle, A.H.: obit. 90 282 Melzer, B.: death, 76 189 Menthosa: reconnaissance, 75 41 attempt, 75 43 1st asc., 76 225 other ascs., 79 22, 26 summit reached by new route, 85155 Merle d'Aubigne, R.: his book: Secourisme en Montagne, 75312 Merrick, H.: his books: (with R. Lobi) The Alps in Colour 76306 Companion to the Alps, 80 252 Merrick, Mary H.: obit. 84 269 Messner, G.: death, 76 221 Messner, R.: his books: The Seventh Grade, 80 289 Mountain People of the World, 82264
38
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Messner, R.: The Challenge, 84 258 The Big Walls, 85251 Everest, Expedition to the Ultimate, 85 255 K2 Mountain of Mountains, 87259 Solo Nanga Parbat, 87 260 subject of art. by O. Oelz, 92 100 Metcalfe, Sir R.I.: obit. 84269 Meteorology: notes, 80 281 see Science notes Metric conversions: difficulties of, 82 259 Meyers, G.: (compiler) his book: Yosemite Climber, 85257 Miangul Sar: 1st, 2nd & 3rd ascs., 74 188 Midgley, J.e.: obit. 90286 Midi d'Ossau, Pic du: description of, 80 132-3 Milburn, G.: 'Events & Trends 1978-81 Rock climbing in Britain', 87 175 his books: Llanberis Pass, 87257 Stanage Millstone, 89253 Derwent Gritstone, 91 255 Helyg, 92261 (with T. Jones) Welsh Rock, 92257 Miles, G.e.: obit. 82272 Mill, D.N.: obit. 87267 Millar, T.G.: his book: Long Distance Paths of England and Wales, 83262 Milledge, J.S.: 'Acute Mountain Sickness', 89 68 'Does the lung pump oxygen?', 91 171 Miller, K.J.: 'Traverse of the Staunings Alps', 81 143 his book: Continents in Collision, 88235 Mills, A.: 'Walking and climbing in Botswana', 84 38 'Additional notes on Namibia', 85 197 Milne, M.: his book: The Book of Modern Mountaineering, 74369 Milner, e.D.: 'Basil Goodfellow mountain photographer', 82 199 'Shots from the backwoods', 84 78 'Samivel - an appreciation', 8559 'Sydney Spencer - mountain photographer', 86 132
74-92
Milner, e.D.: his book: The Photoguide to Mountains, 83259 Milsom, Mrs M.G.: obit. 91268 Minapin (Diran): 1st asc., 74 217; 75 185 attempt, 76 219 Minapta Valley: 74 253 Minivielle, P.: his book: A la Decouverte de la Sierra de Guarra, 80291 Mir Samir: by new routes, 76 218; 77245 1st asc. of SW summit, 79 254 Mitchell, R.L.: obit. 88257 Miyar Nullah: King's School, Ely expedition to, 85 154; map, 85 155 summary of peaks ascended, 85157 Mjelva Crag: 1st ascs. of central diedre & N edge, 74 172 Modi Peak: 2nd asc., 76 229 Moffat, Gwen: her books: Hard Option, 81 264 Over the Sea to Death, 82 262 Hard Road West, 87 254 Die like a Dog, 89 247 Grizzly Trail, 90275 Mojon Rojo: 2nd known asc., 74 273 Molnar, P.: 'Ulugh Muztagh', 92104 Manch: NE ridge, 1st asc. (1877), 82 215 climb on, 1st Alpine season, 8730 Mongejura: 1st asc. of W diedre, 74 154, 171 Mongolia: review of mountains, art. 86 104; map, 86 104-5 Mont, e.: 'Montserrat', 79210 'Languedoc Limestone', 80218 The Caroux', 81 212 'Mountain landscape - erosion landforms', 83198 'Outcrops in Vaud', 84141 'Some more lists of mountains', 84197 'Fontainebleau', 85 208 'More rocks in central France', 87135 'Freyr', 88 134 Monteath, e.: Triennial Report 1969-71Australasia', 77 219 Montfort, J .M.: 'Spanish expedition Hindu Kush 1973', 79 199
GENERAL
Montmirail, Dentelles de: climbs on, 79207 Montserrat: climbs in the Massif, 79210 Monzino, G.: his book: La Spedizione ltaliana All'Everest 1973, 82261 Moore, T.: (with K. Andrasko) 'Shining mountains, nameless valleys: Alaska and the Yukon', Pt.I 8119; PUI 8323; PUll 84 64 'Sangay Survived - the first time', 8628 his book: Mount McKinley: the Pioneer Climbs, 74375 Moores, P.: 'Five Miles High without oxygen', 89 59 Moran, M.: 'Views on the Gangotri', 91 57 his book: The Munros in Winter, 92273 Moravetz, B.: his book (editor): The Big Book of Mountaineering, 88247 Moravia: climbing areas, 8277 Mordecai, D.: his book: The Himalaya (an illus. summary), 75 317 Morgan, G.: 'China's Highest Mountain', 88 65 Morin, Micheline: obit. 78 294 Morin, Nea: climbing career, 82 114; 8379-81 obit. & port., 92 290 Moro Pass, Mte: history of, 76 127 visited, 79 69 Morocco: expedition to High Atlas, 78236 art. with photos, 'The Ridge of Dreams', 92 150 guidebook notes, 92 250 guidebook, 92 274 Morris, J.: obit. & port., 87268 Morse, R.G.: his books: The Mountains of Canada, 84 260 The Naked Mountain, 89 249 'Morte d'un Guide: film, 82265 Mortimer, M.: 'The North Face of Monte Agner', 74 36 Motorbikes: & mountaineering, 82248 Moulam, T.: his book: Dartmoor, 83 247
INDEX
39
Mould, P.: 'Garhwal Himalaya - the Bhillangana valley', 82 168 'Mountaineering in Bhutan', 90 21 'Dear Dad', 90 140 Mountain(s): use of a, to find the mass of the earth, 78 96 building & plate tectonics, notes, 80279 films, 80 167 gorilla, compared to Yeti, 80 104 geological definition, 80 56; 83 198 heights, list of principal mountains in world, 81 75 artists & paintings, art. 85 33 paintings exhibited at Alpine Club, 85243 in early history, 86 90 clothing, 86 138, 237 Mountain and cave rescue: handbook, 91 258 Mountain, R.W.: obit. 87261 Mountaineering: as an Olympic Sport, 80 90 and war, 84 256 Mountaineering Journals: reviewed, 74383; 75318; 76317; 78277 available at Alpine Club, 7927; 80292 Mountaineers, USA (publishers): book: Medicine for Mountaineering, 75311 Mountaineers and Scientists: distinction between, 86 247 Mourti, Pointe de: by new routes on N & S summits, 74 176 Mroz, A.: 'Winter 1971-72', 788 death, 78 8 (f.n.) Muhi Zorn: 1st asc., 75 169 Mukar Beh: 1st asc., 74 58, 227 Mulhacen, El: Spain's highest mountain, 89 119 Mulkila: asc., 76 224 attempt, 78 180 Muller, F.: his book: (with others) Firn und Eis der Schweizer Alpen, 82263 Munns, D.J.: obit. 79282 Munos Gamero Peninsula: visited, 80 1, 3 Munoz-Tebar, R.A.R.: his book: Nieves y Riscos Meridenos, 87253
TO VOLUMES 74-92 Nanga Parbat: traverse, 76 219 4th asc. & 1st of SE & Fore Peaks, 77 247 6th asc. by new route on S side, 82238 account of 1978 Czech expedition, 88244 asc. by E pillar, art. 89 21 map, 76221; 8922 ill. 89 between 24 & 25 Nangeroni, G.: his book: (with R. Cassin) Lhotse 75, 83263 Napes Needle: art. 81 53; ill. 81 54 Napier, J.: his book: Big Foot, 87258 Naranjo de Bulnes: 86175 Natal: events & trends 1974-76, 82231 Navarette, R.: his book (with J Anhalzer) Par los Andes del Ecuador 90 273 Navy Mts (Ellesmere Island): 79174 Naylor, J.: Lake District runner, 81 40, 43-4 Neal, K.: 'Fuorikante', 90 145 Neate, W.R.: his book: Mountaineering and its Literature 85249 Nelson's Mts: 1. Thomas Douglas, 781 NAGRA TAU: attempt by N face, 2. Goodwin Purcell, 79 34 76112 Nepal: regulations governing Nairz, W.: 'Manaslu 1972',7915 mountaineering expeditions, Nakaseko N.: 'Japanese Women's 74 230; 80 264; 83 226; 84 229 Expedition - Manaslu 1974', 80 94 notes and new climbs: Nally, B.: 'Suddenly all hell broke 1969, 75 196 1978, 84 231 loose', 74 67 1970, 76227 1979, 85 223 Namibia: climbing in, 84 113; 85 197 1971, 77 248 1980, 86225 Nampa: attempt, 76 227; 77 126 1972, 78241 1981, 87222 1st asc., 78 241 1973, 79255 1982, 88 199 Nanda Bhanar: attempt, 75 196 1974, 80264 1983, 89 197 Nanda Devi: attempt, 76 227 1975, 81 241 1984, 90 216 ill. & ref. to, 80 158 1976, 82 239 1985, 91 203 climbed by N ridge, 82 239 1977, 83239 1986, 92203 traverse from Nanda Devi E, events & trends 1970-6, 83218 82238 running in, art. 84 181 spy devices on, 84 253 thoughts on climbing, art. 88 201 Nanda Khat: attempt, 76 227 guidelines & notes for Nanda Pal: 1st asc., 79 255 expeditions & travellers, Nanga Parbat: 89200-6 attempt by Rupal face, 74225 winter journey in Eastern, art. 3rd asc., 1st by Rupal face, 1st 91 103
40
INDEX
Munro's Tables of the 3000-foot Mountains in Scotland: 1969 edition, 75 317 1981 edition, 88 246 SMC Guidebook, 92 256 Munros in Winter, book by M. Moran, 92273 Munsey, D.T.F.: obit. 86268 Muongia, La: ski asc., 75 129 Murarata: 1st asc. by SW ridge, 75 221 Murphy, B.: 'AC Karakoram Meet', 91 53 Murphy, Dervla: her book: Where the Indus is Young, 84 262 Murray, Edith A.: obit. 92 303 Murray, W.H.: 'Present Moments', 86 47 his books: The Scottish Highlands, 83263 Mountaineering in Scotland, 85252 Undiscovered Scotland, 85252 Mustagh Ata: ref. to in art. 86 9 ill. 86 11 asc. on ski, art. 88 29 ill. 88 between 32 & 33 successful expeditions to, 89 195, 196 electrifying experience, art. with photos, 92 117 Mustagh Tower: climbed, 90 76
GENERAL
Nepal: guide to trekking in, 91 259 asc. of Mera, art. 9289 Nevada, Sierra (Spain): ski-touring in, 74 179 Nevado Huascaran Sur: traverse by SW ridge, 88 159-60 ill. 88 between 160 & 161 New Guinea: expedition to Carstensz Massif, 78 188 M.E.F. note, 92 243 New Zealand: mountaineering developments in, art. 7471 notes: 74237 81243 75203 82241 76238 84233 77225 85225 78243 86229 79256 91225 80267 92236 plate tectonics in, 85 239 climbing in, art. 91 133 Newby, E.: his book: Great Ascents - a narrative history of mountaineering, 83 259 Ngga Poloc: asc., 78 192 Nicholls, C.R.: obit. 92307 Nichols, K.: his book: Traprock. Connecticut Rock Climbs, 88 249 Nicol, D.: 'Kinabalu - Northern Borneo', 90 187 Nicol, H.G.: 'Paldor', 9178 Niger: ascs. in, 77 243 Niligata Zorn: 1st asc., 74 203 Nisbet, A.: 'Winter Climbing on the Peigne, Scottish Style', 89134 his book: (with A. Fyffe) 'Climbers' Guide to the Cairngorms, 91 260 Nixon, J.: 'British West Karakoram Expedition 1981', 87 132 'The British Andean Climbing Expedition 1986', 92 67 Nogare, R.D.: obit. 84 265; 85261 Noghor Zorn I & II: 1st ascs., 74 204 Nohbaisnom Zorn: 1st asc., 74 200 Norande, S.: his book: (with Samivel) La Grande Ronde autour du Mont Blanc, 87 248 Nordeifel: climbs in the, 86 153 Nordic Ski-ing: developments in equipment, 84245 Norte, Cerro: 1st asc., 75234
INDEX
41
North America: notes: 74240 82242 75206 83241 76239 84 234 77250 85226 78247 86229 79257 88207 80268 90229 81243 triennial report 1969-71, 77229 climbing trends 1972-74, 80238 rock climbing, art. 90 153 ill. 90 between 152-3, following 160 M.E.F. notes, 92 238 North Pole: reached solo, 84 253 North Wales: new climbs, 80274 Norway: climbing in Romsdal, art. 74 150 note, 74 171 Lofoten islands, 74 169 ski traverse of Haute Route of central, 75 136 new climbs 1972, 78 233 rock climbing in, Northern, art. 87246 Noshaq: ascs., 75172,173; 76215; 78 184; 82 28; 84 139 1st winter asc., 79 11, 24 Nowill, S.: 'Turkey 1980 - Torasan, Kackar and mountain rescue', 86159 Noyce, C.W.F.: his book: (with I. McMorrin) The World Atlas of Mountaineering, 75298 Nun Kun: ascs., 78 240 descent of Nun on skis, 83238 Nunn, P.: 'A hundred days in the Himalaya 1977. Pt.I Latok II', 83114 'A hundred days in the Himalaya 1977. Pt.II Baleful Barnaj', 8487 'The Karakoram 1982', 88 192 'Karakoram 1983', 89212 'Karakoram 1985', 91 208 'Karakoram 1986', 92210 Nuptse: British Nepalese Army Expedition to, 81 107 attempt, 81 107, 241 1st asc. of NW ridge, 83 240 climbed, 85 223 Nuts: protection devices, 84 244 Nyka, J.: (with A. Kus) 'Note on the history of Polish Alpinism', 78 107
42
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Nylon garments: waterproof outer, 74326 OBERALPSTOCK: asc. on skis, 7486 Oberland, Bernese: British ascs. in, 1971, 77240; 1972,78232 climbs in the 1880's, art. 86 115 Oberreintalturm: by Gonda diedre, 74 179 climbing in the area of, art. 91 122 O'Brien, Miriam: see Underhill, M. Observatories: in the mountains, art. 89 173 O'Connell, K.: 'The Way to Chulu', 9097 obit. 90289 O'Connor, W.: 'Last Virgin in the Khumbu', 88 21 Odell, Mrs G.M.: obit. 83270 O'Donovan, R.: 'The South Face of Mount Dan Beard (3127m) Alaska', 80 63 Oedema: field study, 81 217 art. 85 168 pulmonary & cerebral, 8968 Oelz, 0.: 'Reinhold Messner: the Phenomenon', 92 100 Ogi, F.: obit. 86263 Ogre (Karakoram): attempt, 77 247 1st asc., 83 3; ill. 83 117 Okasawa, S.: his book: Crags of the Swiss Bernese Alps, 83 236 Olan L': 1st asc. of middle summit by NW face direct, 76 194 Olech, K.: 'The first ascent of Kangbachen', 80 29 One ht:ndred years ago: 74340 83211 75278 84204 76175 85211 77215 86212 78206 87 158 79213 8880 80231 8963 81220 90121 82 213 91 192 92198 One-man expeditions: art. 89 168 Orienteering: getting fit for the Alps, 74345 Orolin, M.: his book: Strme Cesty k Himalajam, 87 260 Oropolitics: 89 74 Ossa, Mt (Tasmania): 86 18
74-92
6sterreichischer Alpenklub: centenary, 83 254 Ostrava, Cerro (Patagonia): 1st asc., 75 236 Otten, P.F.S.: obit. 74395 Ovchinnikov, A.: 'The first ascent of the S face of Peak Communism, 1968' 7425 Owens, Major G.: obit. 81270 Owir I: see Ausher Oxford English Dictionary: on clubs, 86 247 Oyarzun, G.: 'The Chilean Karakoram expedition 1979', 85 151 PADME HUM PEAK: 85 136 Paglia Orba: by E face, 74 181 Paiju: climbed, 82 237 Pain de Sucre: by SE ridge direct, 76 193 Paine, Cordillera del: 1st ascs. of Cerro Blanco & Principal Cuernos, 74276 attempt, ascs. & prospects, 75 234-6 Central Tower, attempt by E face, 78199 asc. by E face, 805-15 Mummer, the, 1st asc., 84 117 Pakistan Alpine Club: founded, 79 272 Pala di San Martino: 1st asc. (1878), 83 213 Palanganayoc Range: 74 270 Palava rocks: art. 82 143 Paldor: trek to & asc. of, art. 91 78 Pallavicini Couloir: account of, 82 193-5 Palmer, J.: his book: (with A. Burgess) Everest, the Ultimate Challenge' 90 267 Palmer Land, Antarctica: 89 87 Palmowska, Krystyna: 'Broad Peak', 89 11 Palii, Piz: asc., 75 129 by W pillar of N face, 76 105, 200 by E pillar, 79 65 Pamiagdluk Island: 80 203 Pamirs: summary of major peaks, 78 177 new climbs & notes, 83237 topography & climbing background, art. 85 83 see also Special Districts p. 74
GENERAL INDEX
Panch Chuli: attempt, 76227 1st asc., 79 254 Papsura: 2nd asc., 78 240 climbed, 83 151; ill. 83 150, 151 Paptula: asc., 7841 Papua, New Guinea: 89 190 Parachuting: from mountains, 74349; 75 280; 76 99; 87 233 Paradiso range: description, 82 133 ill. Gran Paradiso, 82 135, 139 Paragot, R.: (with others) 'The French expedition to Makalu West Ridge 1971', 7844 his book: (with L. Berardini) Vingt Ans de Cordee, 80 290 Parbati Group: 1st & 2nd ascs. of highest peak, 74226; 75 53, 194 ill. 75 56, 57; map, 75 54 Parbati South, attempted, 79 115 climbed; 79 124; ill. 79 116-7, 119, 122, 123, 125, 126; map, 79120 Pardoe, E.: obit. 76330 Parker, J.W.: his book: Scrambles in Skye, 89253 Parmentier, M.: his book: (with M. Berruex) Les Grands Raids a Ski, 90274 Parque Nacional los Nevados, Colombia: 82 54 Pasteur, F.M.: obit. 86269 Pasteur, H.W.: obit. 91269 Pasteur, M.: obit. 87261 Pasu Peak: 89 186 Patagonia: asc. of SW buttress of FitzRoy, 74 131 notes & new climbs 1968, 74273 notes & new climbs 1969-70, 75225 Southern ice-cap: 1st crossing of central part, 79 237 map, 79 239; ill. 79 242-3 new climbs 1973-74, 80 270 history & prospects, 81 194 and Tierra del Fuego: events & trends 1974-76, 82226 new climbs 1978, 84241 E ridge of San Lorenzo, art. 9248 Cordillera Darwin, art. 92 54 M.E.F. notes, 92 239 Patel, N.: death, 76226 Paterson, Grizel M.S.: obit. 90 288
43
Patey, T.: death, 75 285 obit. & port. 76331 his book: One Man's Mountains, 77278 Patrasi Himal: 1st asc. of Pt. 5967m, 77 248 Pause, W.: his books: 1m Extremen Fels, 76311 (with J. Winkler) 100 Sealate Estreme, 85253 Payne, R.: 'Three excursions in the Peruvian Cordilleras', 92 37 Peacocke, T.A.H.: 'The Circuit of Andorra', 83 160 Peak 29 (Dakura): attempt, 75 199 possible 1st ascs., 76229; 85223; 89185 Peak 141 (Mandaras glacier): 1st asc., 75 174 Peak 18,977 ft. (Lahul): 1st asc., 75 43 Peak 20,684 ft. (Chaturangi glacier): 1st asc., 75 195 Peak District: walking in, art. 80 71; map, 80 70 Peaker, G.F.: obit. &' port. 89264 Pearl, Susan Warren: obit. 89268 Pearse, R.O.: 'The Natal Drakensberg', 78 27 his book: Barrier of Spears, 80 254 Peascod, W.: his book: Journey after Dawn, 91 248 Peck, E.: 'Mt Everest Foundation Notes 1980-81', 87 238 'Round Annapurna - the Trekking Party', 87 186 'Mt Everest Foundation Notes 1981-82',88212 'Mt Everest Foundation Notes 1982-83', 89 188 'Mt Everest Foundation Notes 1983-84', 90 247 'An October Trek in Bhutan', 9194 'Mt Everest Foundation Notes 1984-85', 91 227 'Mt Everest Foundation Notes 1985-86', 92 238 Pedgley, D.: his book: Mountain Weather, 86258 Pedriza del Manzanares, La: art. 82 145 Pegish Valley: 1st ascs. from, 75 177
44
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Pegish Zorn I & II: 1st ascs., 74 203-4 Peigne, Aig. du: couloir dangerous in descent, 74 173 asc. of N ridge, art. 82 186 Peigne, Col du: winter asc., art. 89 134 ill. 89 following 144 Peilstein: climbs on, 79208 Peissel, M.: his book: The Great Himalayan Passage, 81 264 Pembroke: geology & accident hazards, 90 148 Pennine Alps: travel & trade in, art. 77 175 British ascs. in 1971, 77 241 British ascs. in 1972, 78231 Penning, A.: his guide: Wyndcliffe, 89255 Pennisi, F. & L.: their book: L'Arrampicata Sportiva, 90262 Pepper, L.R.: obit. & port. 88 256 obit. 89259 Perdu, Mt: 86 77 Perla, R.I.: his book: (with M. Martinelli) Avalanche handbook, 85251 Perrin, J.: his books: (editor) Mirrors in the Cliffs, 90260 The Life of J.M. Edwards, 92253 On and Off the Rocks, 92 265 Perry, R.: his book: Mountain Wildlife, 87259 Personality tests on climbers: 74 101 Peru: notes & new climbs: 74247 85229 75210 87224 80269 89226 84239 triennial report 1971-73, 79229 events & trends 1974-76, 82220 climbs in Cordillera Apolobamba, art. 91135 Andes guidebook, 91 252-3 Three excursions in the Cordilleras art. 9237 M.E.F. notes, 91 228 Peskett, N.: obit. 92286 Peter Botte Mt: 1st asc., 78 161 Peterka, H.: 'Peilstein - a well known Viennese training mountain', 79 208
74-92
Peters, E.: his book (editor): Mountaineering, the Freedom of the Hills, 88 247 Peters, I.: 'Beyond Patagonia', 92 54 Pettifer, M.: obit. 83 271 Pettigiani, G.: his book (with G. Agnolotti) "Cordigliera tra cielo e ghiaccio" 86 255 Peuterey, Aig. Noire de: by S ridge, 75 138 2nd asc. of W face by Boccalatte route, 76 193 key to start of S ridge, 76 193 1st asc. (1877), 82 216 Peuterey, Aig. Blanche de: 1st British asc. by N face, 75 138 Phabrang: reconnaissance & attempt on, 7541-7 1st asc., 78 240 Phenomena, optical: for mountaineers, art. 77 39 Phipps, Mt: climbed 82 56 Phola Gangchhen: 1st asc., 90299 Photography: 'Tairraz family of Chamonix -four generations of mountain photographers', ill. art. 80 161 'Basil Goodfellow - mountain photographer', art. 82 199 the Tempest Anderson collection at the Yorkshire museum, 85258 from the Alpine Club Archives, 85192 early mountain, art. 86 132 by Vittorio Sella, 88 following 224 Vittorio Sella, catalogue of his photographs, 89 250 Mountains and Mountaineering 1883-1983, an exhibition of photographs by Alpine Club members, 89278 book: Montagne - a collection of mountain photographs, 90 278 Phu Dorje: death, 75 341 Phukpoche glacier: ascs. of unnamed summits, 76 224 Phunangma: ascs., 76 224 Phuparash Peaks: photo, 74223 Physiology: new developments in, 81 254; 82252; 83 158, 251 Picos de Europa: climbs, 86175; 87254 history, 86 172
GENERAL
Pierre, B.: his books: Le Petit Sherpa aux yeux bleus, 75 312 Victoire sur les Andes, 82 262 Ils ont conquis l'Himalaya, 85257 Phuti et l'homme des Neiges, 87258 Pigeon Sisters: climbing career, 81 94 Pigott, AS.: obit. 85262 Pilier d'Angle, Grand: Polish asc. by new route on S face, 75 95, 137 Pilkington, J.: his book: Into Thin Air, 92272 Pillar Rock: 82 44-6; ill. 8243, 45 Pilley, Dorothy: climbing career, 82 110-11 see also Richards, Dorothea Pillwax Couloir: 82 195 Pindos range: traverse of, 78 25 Pines, A: obit. 87 269 Piotrowski, T.: 'Trollryggen North Face in Winter', 81 172 Pisco: climbed, 82 165 Pithoragahr: regional notes & new climbs, 85 223 Piuquenes area (Andes): ascs. in, 75 223 Planchon, Cerro: 1st asc., 75 236 Plateriyayoc Group: Bangor expedition to, 74 263 Playgrounds, climbers': 76 169; 77 183; 78 116; 79207 Pleydell, Susan: her novel: Brighouse Hotel, 85 251 Pogacnikov Hut, Julian Alps: 8295, 98 Poincenot, Aig.: 2nd asc., 74274 Pt. 19,690 ft. (Gangotri): asc., 74228 Pt. 19,879 ft. (SSE of Kholi): asc., 74229 Pt. 21,390 ft. (E of Deoban): 2nd, 3rd & 4th ascs., 74 228, 229 Pt. 23,080 ft. (W of Tirsuli): attempt, 74 229 Pt. 5681 m. (Kotgaz-Chhutidum): 1st asc., 74 205 Pokorny, G.: 'Fiction in Mountaineering Literature', 85121 his book: (with others) The International Directory of Mountaineering Clubs and Organizations, 85 253
INDEX
45
Poland: history of alpinism in, art. 78 107 training rocks in, 81 213 mountain rescue in, 90 245 Polar regions: 1971 ascs. in, 77 254 triennial report 1970-72, 78213 new climbs: 81250 85231 82244 86235 89220 83246 84242 Polish climbers: personality of, art. 79 87 Pollitt, A: his books: N Wales. New Climbs, 89253 N Wales Limestone 1983, 90263 Pollution in the Alps: art. 81 160 Pontic Alps (Turkey): expedition to Kackar Karron group, 75 153 Porongorups (Australia): ascs. in, 79 32 Porte P.: his book: (with Z. Arbez) Vos Premiers Pas en ski de Fond, 82263 Porter, Doris S.: obit. 86269 Porter, H.E.L.: obit. 79283 Porters, Himalayan: regulations for hiring, 90 208 Postcards, mountain: 84 110 Potter, A.: obit. 81 270 Potter, S.: 'The art of not rock climbing', 84 107 Poucher, W.A: his books: The Lake District, 88 256 The Highlands of Scotland; The Alps, 89251 The Yorkshire Dales and the Peak District, 90 264 Pousset Chalets: 82 138-40 Powell, P.: his book: Men Aspiring, 74 373 Powers, D.F. de Y.: death, 77272 Pra See, Aig. de: 1st asc. by E face, 75 139 Prabhu, R.S.: death, 76227 Pravda, Peak: by a new route, 74 29 Pre-Alps of Switzerland: art. 84 92 Preston, L.J.G.: 'Memories of a first season', 87 30 'A Long Day on the Schreckhorn', 88170 Pret-Roose, Count M. de: obit. & port. 86 270 Price, L.W.: his book: Mountains and Man, 87254
46
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
Price, T.: 'Short of the Folding Stuff', 91 183 Prisojnik: 82 99 Prosser, J.: 'Parbati South, 1972', 79 115 Prunes, J.: 'The Spanish expedition towards Central Kangchenjunga 1978' 86 177 Pruppoo-Brukh: 1st asc., 84118 Prusiking: new method, 84 244 Psychological behaviour at altitude: art. 80244 Pumasillo group: with map & photographs, 74 256 Australian expedition to, 75 212 Pumori: 2nd asc., 78 242 ascs., 81 241 Purace Group, Colombia: 82 51 Purcell Range: description of & climbs in, 79 34 Puskas, A.: his book: (with I. Urbanovic) Nanga Parbat 8125m., 82264 Putha Hiunchuli: 2nd & 3rd ascs., 78241 attempt, 79 255 Putnam, W.L.: 'Nelson's Mountains. 1. Thomas Douglas', 78 1 'Nelson's Mountains. 2. Goodwin Purcell', 79 34 his book: The Great Glacier and its house, 88 248 Putt, c.: (with P. Lloyd) a tribute to H.W. Tilman (1898-1978), 84 132 Pyatt, E.C.: Editor of Alpine Journal 1971-82 'Chalk climbing in France', 76 173 'Intervisibility', 77 172 'Mountain landscape - the Auvergne' 77 190 'Bicentenary 1972', 78 96 'North-Western France', 78117 (with M. Brandt) 'Mountain landscape - the Jura', 78 146 (with J. Russell) 'Mountain landscape - the Vosges', 79 149 'The Dentelles de Montmirail', 79207 'Burgundy - the Cote d'Or', 80 213 'The mapping of mountain terrain by side-looking airborne radar', 80226 'Notes 1974 Equipment and Technique', 80 277
Pyatt, E.C.: 'Some pioneers of coasteering' , 83 191 'Mountains - the lighter side', 84107 (with T. Connor) compilers 'Science Notes', 84 246; 85 238 'The Matterhorn Image', 89 113 'Climb an Eponymous Mountain', 91146 his books: A Climber in the West Country, 74 377 Climbing and Walking in SouthEast England, 76307 The Guinness Book of Mountains and Mountaineering Facts and Feats, 86251 The National Physical Laboratory - a History, 89 247 The Passage of the Alps, 91 244 obit. 91287 Pyrenees: Western National Park, art. 80 129; map, 80 138 climbing history, art. 8421 ski-tour in, 8671 glacier incident, 87 28 travels in, arts. 88 145; 89 84; 90 166 high level route guidebook, 88244 art. 'Packe of the Pyrenees', 92156 QAZI DEH: Austrian 1st ascs. in, 75 169 American expedition to, 75 173 Quala Panja Valley: ascs. by French expedition from, with map, 74215 Quimsa Cruz, Cordillera: ascs. by Japanese expedition to, with map, 74271 German expedition to, 75 173 Quitaraju: 1st asc. by S ridge, 75 212 Qungur Massif: climbing history, 75202 RADAR mapping: 80226 Radcliffe, P.: his book: Land of Mountains - Hiking and Climbing in New Zealand, 87257 Rahozon Zorn: 1st asc., 75 169 Railways: alpine, 77 129; 84 122 Rainier, Mt: ill. 82 66 Rainoldi, L.: his books : Antrona, Bognanco, Sempione, 84263 Alpe Veglia, 86257
GENERAL
Rakaposhi: climbed, 85 222; 86 188; 89 185 N ridge route, diagram, 86 186 Rakhe Myani I & II: 1st ascs., 76215 Ramchukor: asc., 7922,27 Ramond de Carbonnieres, L.-F.: life & writings of, art. 86 147 Ranitz, de, Dr C.J.A.: obit. 89263 Ranrapalca: asc., 7441 Ras Dashan: 1st asc. by NW pillar, 75 149 Rasac: 1st asc. of S face, 83 243 Rasica, Pta: asc., 75 48 Raura, Cordillera: Italian expedition to, 74 255 ascs. in, 75 212 Rawlinson, Sir A.K.: President of Alpine Club, obit. 91 1 Reader's Digest books: Les Alpes, 76 306 Guide des Plantes Sauvages, 76311 Real, Cordillera: expeditions to, 75221; 78201 1972 expedition to, 78 201 list of ascs., 78 205 art. with photos, 90 172 Rebiffe, Monique: 'Hauteroche', 86 157 'Climbs in Champagne: Vertus', 88133 Rebuffat, G.: his books: Glace, Neige et Roc, 76 305 The Mont Blanc Massif. The 100 finest routes, 81 228 Les Horizons Gagnes, 81265 Gli Orizzonti Conquistati, 83 262 Calanques, Ste Baume, Ste Victoire, 86 259 Chamonix Mont Blanc 1900, 87250 Le Massif des Ecrins, 89 250 Cervin, 89 251 (with others) a collection of 15 books of Belles Courses etc., 90 268 obit. & port. 91 281 Rees, LB.: his book: Mynyddoedd, 82263 Rees, Lucy: her book: (with A. Harris) Take it to the limit, 87254 Renner, G.: his book: Biwak auf dem Dach der Welt, 87 260
INDEX
47
Rescue equipment: advances in, in Britain, 75 267 Resort building: in the Alps, 77 274; 79 274 Revolution Peak: 8585-7 Rey, A.: death, 75 347; obit. 76339 Reynolds, Jan: his book: (with N. Gillette) Everest Grand Circle, 92269 Reynolds, K.: 'Because its there and all that', 83 17 'A progress in Pyreneisme', 8421 'The life and writings of Ramond', 86147 'That sinking feeling', 87 27 'Across the High Pyrenees', 88 145 'Not the Accursed Mountain', 8984 'A Very Proper Enthusiasm', 90166 his book: Mountains of the Pyrenees, 89242 'Packe of the Pyrenees', 92 156 Rhodesia: climbing in, 77 86-9; 78235; 79223; 80260 map, 7789 Rice, N.R.: 'A guide to the archives of the Alpine Club', 78 71 death, 79279 Richard, G.: 'The Valleys of the Creuse and the Anglin', 81 217 'The Rocks at Surgy (Nievre, France)', 83143 Richards, Dorothea: obit. & port. 92 308 see also Pilley, Dorothy Richards, LA.: 'Mountains and Mountaineering as Symbols', 82235 obit. 85263 poems: 'Soldanella's Song', 88 64 'Finhaut', 88 152 Richards, R.: 'International Meet to Transalai Pamir', 80 89 Richards, Ronnie: (with P. Boardman) 'British Everest expedition SW face 1975', 81 3 Richardson, Dorothy: her book: The Quest of Simon Richardson, a Biography, 92 269 Richardson, S.: 'Andes Adventure', 90 184 'Hunter's S Ridge - Alpine Style', 9210
48
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Ridgeway, R.: his book: The Last Step, 87 252 Ridley, N.M.: his book: Expedition to the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta of Colombia, 81 265 Rieffel, R.: his book: Nepal Namaste, 89 250 Ripley, B.: death, 74224 obit. 74393 Rishi Gorge: 8652 Risks in mountaineering: 86 4, 210 Rittman, A & L: their book: Volcanoes, 83262 Rivetti, Count G.A.: obit. 84265 Road building: in the Alps, 77 273 Robbins, D.W.: obit. 92312 Roberts, D.: his book: The Mountain of my Fear, 75308 Roberts, David: obit. 80 302 Roberts, E.: 'The Grosslockner, its climbs and pioneers', 82 189 obit. 85265 his books: Welzenbach's Climbs, 86254
High Level Route, 90265 Roberts, M.: his book: Selected Poems and Prose, 86 252 Robertson, D.: his book: George Mallory, 74 365 Robertson, E.: obit. 81 271 Robinson, B.D.: his book: (with D. Harmon) Columbia Icefield - a Solitude of Ice, 87 257 Robinson, M.: 'The Profit of Impurism - the Shawangunk scene', 8681 Robinson, Sir R.: obit. 81 271 Robson, Mt: 2nd asc. by N face, 75 208 Robson, P.: his book: Mountains of Kenya, 75 316 Roc Noir: 1st asc., 75 197 Rocca Sbarua: climbs near Turin, 86 152 Roccheta Alta: ascs., 75 146 Roche Melon: storm on the, 80 173 Rochefort, Mt de: 1st asc. by SW face, 74 174 Rock climbers: motor aptitude of, 75282 Rock climbing: in France, art. 87 75 in Britain, art. 87 175 Rockies: notes & new climbs, 75 101, 208; 78247; 80236-7; 82243
74-92
Rodda, R.: 'Mountains and Climbs in Tasmania', 86 17 Roer, H.H.: obit. 92296 Roger, G.: obit. & port. 89274 Rogers, B.: death, 75 346 Rogers, N.A.J.: 'Climbs in the Allievi Cirque, Bregaglia', 7548 Rogerson, F.: 'In quest of the Ultimate', 81 40 Rodwell, R.W.: obit. 88275 Rolleston, Mt: climbed, ill. 82 64 Rome: outcrop climbing from, 77188
Romero, R.A.: his book: Nievesy Riscos Meridenos, 83246 Romsdal: historical notes, 81 174 Rondoy: W face, 1st asc., 83243 Rope, mountaineering: tests & life span of, 74315, 316; 75 274; 78 62; 82 156; 8443, 245 Roper, S.: his books: (editor with A. Steck & ors.) Ascent - the Mountaineering Experience in Word and Image, 82262
(with A. Steck) Fifty classic climbs of North America, 85257
(editor with A. Steck) Ascent, 90272 Rosa, Mte: ski descent of Marinelli couloir, 75 35 the Marinelli accident (1881), 86218
Rosser, M.: 'Gwent Andean Expedition 1983', 89 161 Rosso, Cima di: 1st asc. by N pillar, 75 145 Rotenfels: rock-climbing, 87 139 Roth, A.: his book: Eiger, Wall of Death, 88250 Rother, R.: death, 75 347 Rothorn, Zinal: 1st winter asc. by E face, 78 232 Rouge de Peuterey, Mt: by new route on S face, 74 173 Rouge de Rochefort, Aig.: 1st asc. by S wall & SE an~te, 74173 Rouse, A.: 'Jannu', 85 77 'Changing Values', 90 116 obit. 92304 Rowe, I.: 'The North face of Les Courtes', 78 23
GENERAL
Rowe, J.: his book: The Ice Experience, 88246 Rowell, G.: his books: (editor) The Vertical World of Yosemite, 84260 In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods, 85249 Many people come looking, looking' 86 259 Mountains of the Middle Kingdom, 90258
Royal Observatory, Edinburgh: 89 173 Rozes, Pilastro di: by S face direct, 75 146 Rozman, K.: 'The British, Kugy and W Slovenia', 92 182 Rubens, D.: 'The Scottish Gasherbrum III Expedition', 9141
Rucksack Club: 80 75-82 Ruiz-Tolima Group, Colombia: 8249
Rumbold, T.A.: death, 78264 Russell, c.A.: 'One hundred years ago', 76175 77215 78206 79213 80231 81220 82213 83211
85211 86212 87158 8880 8963
90 121
91 192 92198
84 204 Russell, Prof. I.c.: his explorations in Alaska, 81 24 Russell, J.M.: 'The National Park of the Western Pyrenees', 80129 (with E. Pyatt) 'Mountain Landscape - the Vosges', 79 149 Russell, John: his book: (with A. Walton) Turner in Switzerland, 83 260 Russia: notes, 74 184; 75 159 Ruwenzori: new routes in, 77244 ill. art. 82 12 Mt Speke traverse, 82 14 Stanley Massif: Pte Albert, 82 15 Pte Margherita, 82 14 Pte Elizabeth, 82 15 Moebius Glacier, 82 16 Pte Alexandra & glacier, 82 17 Mt Baker traverse, 82 20 ill. colour supplement, 82 between 16 & 17
INDEX
49
Ryan, T.: his guide: (Ireland) New Climbs 1982, 89254 Ry]?at, P.: his book: Celenka Matky Zeme, 87260 Ryn, Z.: 'Remarks on the personality of Polish Climbers', 7987
'Mental disturbances at high altitudes', 80 244 SAFETY: margins of, 74 159 Sahara: book on mountains of, 92271
St Elias, Mt: 5th asc., 74241 attempt by E ridge & asc., 77 250 climbs 1972-4, 80236 climbing possibilities, ill. & map, 81 19-27 Saint-Exupery, Aguja: 1st asc., 74 273 St Helens, Mt: effects of 1980 eruption, 86246 St Julien, the Rocher: art. 82 144 Sajama: ascs., 76 248 Salbitschijen: complete traverse of W ridge, 76 200 Sa1cantay: 1st asc. by N face, 74 262 by new route on S ridge, 74262 height, 76 244 Sale, R.: 'Climbing - the wrong route', 85 158 Sales, H.: 'Transcending in Devon and Cornwall', 79 145 Sales, M.: 'Greenland: The Experience', 92 189 Saleve, Mt: 80 214 Salter, J.: his book: Solo Faces, 86 256 Samivel: French mountain artist, cartoonist & writer: ill. art. 85 59 his books: Hommes, Cimes et Dieux, 80293
Cimes et Merveilles, 81 265 L' Opera de Pies, 86 256 (with S. Norande) La Grande Ronde autour du Mont Blanc, 87248
Samivel des Cimes, book of mountain ills., 91 253 San Lorenzo: possible 3rd asc., 78 252
INDEX
50
TO VOLUMES
San Roman, G.: his book: Guia de Excursionismo para Ie Cordillera de Santiago, 83246 San Valentin, Mt: 2nd asc., 75225 attempt, 79 44 Sanderson, Rosemary E.: obit. 85266
Sandstone towers: of the American SW desert, 84 10 ill. 8410-19 Sangay: 1st asc., 86 31 Sanseverino, J.: 'The Inexhaustible Alps', 89 121 Sansom, G.S.: his book: Climbing at Wasdale before the First World War 88 237 Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de: expedition to, 7878 Santa Valley (Peru): earthquake disaster in, 76 241 Santander, Pico: asc., 89 78 Santorini: volcanic eruption, 85 238 Saraghrar: 1st asc. of Speak, 74 202 2nd asc. of central peak, 74 203 ill. 74 202 attempted, 83 210 Sarakyaguqi Peak: climbed, 86 14 Sark: climbing possibilities, 83 197-8 Saser Kangri I: attempt, 76 224 1st asc., 79 254; 80 239 Sass Maor: by E face, 74 179 1st asc. (1875), 80 232-4 Sasso d'Italia, Gran: 78 124 map, 78125 Sat Dag: ascs. in, 75 157 Satellite mapping: 84 248 Satellite pictures of mountains: 83 28-36; 86 238, 242 Satopanth: attempt, 74 228 Saunders, A.V.: 'British Conway's Ogre Expedition 1980', 86 191 'The British Caucasus Expedition 1986', 92 129 Saussois: climbing in, 77 183 Sauvy, Anne: 'La Fourche', 90 127 her book: Les Flammes de Pierre, 88238
Savenc, F.: 'The South Face of Dhaulagiri', 88 181 Sayan Mts: meet in, 75 164 Sayle, M.: 'Everest - a Reporter's View'. 77 116
74-92
Saysse-Tobiczyka, K.: . his book (editor): W Skakach I Lodah Swiata. HimalajeKarakorum, 84261 Scandinavia: practice crags in, 78 119 ski-ing in, 83 91-7 Scerscen, Piz: 1st asc. (1877), 82 219 Schaller, G.: his book: Stones of Silence, 87 257; 88 250 Schindlbacher, H.: 'Malubiting snow peak above desert valleys', 78 53 Schipper, R.: 'The unconquered South face of Huandoy', 79 139 Schlick, A.: death, 7920 Schneider, J.: 'Climbing in the Black Forest', 84 142 'Siidpfalz (South Palatinate)', 85209
'Nordeifel', 86 153 'Rotenfels', 87 139 'The Bruchhauser Steine', 88 130 Schreckenback, K.: (with P. von Gizycki) 'Dhaulagiri III', 80 198 Schreckhorn: an ascent, 88 172 Schreebeli, W.: his book: (with F. Rothlisberger) 8000 Jahre Walliser Gletschergeschichte, 85 253 Schulman, M.: his book: (with others) Fontainebleau escalades et randonnees, 89 245 Schwabe, U.: 'Noshaq on skis', 77110
Schwartz, G.T.: obit. 90281 Schwartz, K.: 'Advance and retreat of Alpine Glaciers', 79 75 Science notes (cover such subjects as climatology, glaciology, biology, physiology, geology, zoology etc.) 77269 78259 79268 80279 81253 82251
83250 84246 85238 86238 87227 88221
Scotland: notes, 74 288 new climbs, 80 275 winter climbs 1981-83, art. 89216 winter climbs 1985-86, art. 92 229 Scott, A.J.: obit. 87 261
GENERAL INDEX
Scott, D.: 'A big leaning wall - Cima Dvest in Photos', 75 59 'Mount Asgard', 7885 'Changabang', 80 155 (with D. Haston) 'The South Face of Mt McKinley 1976', 82173 'Dougal Haston - a tribute', 83 132 (with M. English) 'The AngloIndian Gangotri Sanctuary expedition', 87 3 'Multi Peak - Alpine Style', 9088 'Excursions & Climbs from the Karakoram Highway', 91 46 his books: Big Wall Climbing, 80250 (with A. McIntyre) The Shishapangma Expedition, 91243 Scott, M.: 'The North by North-West route on Du Toits Peak', 77 94 'The Sword and others', 78 195 'Toverkop (Witch's Head)', 7999 'At the eleventh hour', 805 'The Cedarbergen', 81 128 'Events and Trends 1974-76 South Africa', 82 227 'A Mountaineer's History of Table Mountain', 83 120 'Baffin Island adventure', 83 153 'Modern hard climbing in South Africa', 85 182 'The South African Cordillera Blanca Expedition 1982', 88 173 'South African Rock Climbing', 88203 'Africa 1983 - South African Rock Climbing', 89 228 'South Africa 1985', 91 223 'South Africa 1986', 92 233 Scott, R.: 'British Central Hindu Kush Expedition 1971', 77 170 Scroggie, S.: collected poems: Give me the Hills, 90267 Scull, R.: death, 78 204 Sea stacks: 79 47 Sea-cliff climbing: in Cornwall, art. 87 67 generally, art. 83 191 Searle, M.: 'Langtang Lirung South Face 1980', 88 106 Secor, J.: his book: Mexico's Volcanoes, 87258 Secord, C.H.: obit. 86271
51
Secreast, D.: his book: (with C. Frazier) Adventuring in the Andes, 91252 Sefton, Mt: 1st asc. by E face direct, 77 226 Seigneur, Y.: his book: A la Conquete de ['Impossible, 85253 Seligman, G.: death, 79279 Selkirks: ascs. in, 74 242; 76 239 generally, art. 78 1 Sella Pass: crossed, 78 140 Sella, V.: his book: Dal Caucaso al Himalaya, 88225 catalogue of his photographs, 89250 Semyen: ref. to new map of High, 74 182 Sentiers de Grande Randonnee, les: guide books, 78 268 Sentilo, Pico: 1st asc. by W face, 75 211 Sentinel, the (NW Karakoram): asc., 76 167 Seoul: climbing near, 83 55 Sesiajoch: crossings of, 82 256 Setnesfjell: by new routes on SE face, 76 191 Shachiokun Zorn: 1st asc., 74 216 Shadbolt, L.G.: obit. 79274; 80 302-3 Shahgologh Zorn: 1st asc., 74 216 Shai-i-Anjuman: 1st asc., 74 195 Shakhaur: 1st asc. by N buttress, 75 175 Shani Snow Dome: attempt, 76 165 Sharp, P.: 'Some Swiss mountain railways', 77 129 'Tunnels through the Alps', 84 122 Shawangunk (E coast of USA): climbs, 86 81 Shchurovsky, Pik: by N face, centenary climb, 76 114 Sheldon, J.H.: obit. 78290 Shepherd, E.: 'The Calanques', 77185 'Montagne Sainte-Victoire', 80 189 'A first impression of Biokova', 81203 Sheridan, G.: 'Across Zagros on skis', 83 102 'Some 4000 metre peaks of Southern Iran', 84 187 'A Winter Journey through the Western Himalaya', 87 167
52
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Sheridan, G.: 'Yukon - a Winter Excursion', 91120 Sheridan, J.M.G.: 'Winter Climbing in Lyngen', 8067
Sherlock Holmes, mountaineer: 8399
Sherman, P.: 'Huascanin: the W AfI~te 1969', 75 131 Sherpas: and ski-ing, art. 91 101 Shiga I and II: ascs., 78 240 Shimbun, A: (compiler) book: The Magnificence of the Himalaya, 84261
Shingeik Zorn II and III: 1st ascs., 75 172 Shipton, E.E.: his book: That Untravelled World, 75 294 'Mount Burney', 80 1 obit. 83271 his Six Mountain Travel Books, 91245
Shipton: in the steps of, art. (in the Garhwal), 84 154 Shirakawa, Y.: his books: Alps, 76106 Himalayas, 82264; 85253 Shisha Pangma: account of German expedition to, 1980, 88244 Shispare: summit reached, 80 224 Shivling: climbed, 80 240; 87 4 Sia Kangri: climbed, 80 152 ill., 80 150 Siachen: expedition to, 1985, art. 91 19 Sikkim: area notes, 82241 new climbs & notes, 83 240 Silvretta Pass: crossed, 74 84 Sinai: mountains of, 77 160; 80 145 Siran I: 1st asc., 78 187 Siran II: asc., 78 186 Sircar, J.: his book: The Himalayan Handbook, 81 265; 85 254 'Oropolitics', 8974 Sisne: attempt & accident on, 83 78 Ski-ing: from Austria to France, 7483 extreme ski descents, 74 349; 75 31, 33, 38; 76 192; 85 218 early, in Scotland, 76 279 British Alpine traverse 1972, 78 13 resorts in the Alps, 78 267 mountaineering, 75 124; 8391, 102; 85 176; 8720; 88 33,92; 90 193
74-92
Ski-ing: in the Western Himalaya, 87 167 in Kashmir, 87 222 in China, 88 29 and Sherpas, 91 101 Slatter, Enid M.: 'Mont Blanc Bi-centenary', 91 150 Sleeman, C.M.: death, 77 296 obit. 78290 Sleeping-bags: paper, 76278 Sleeping-pad: new waterproof, 74323
Slovakia: climbing areas, 82 79 Smith, C.D. & G.A: their book: The Armchair Mountaineer, 74 376 Smith, F.E.: obit. 88259 Smith, R.: 'Mountaineering in Iceland - a personal appraisal', 86119
his book (editor): The Winding Trail, 87 254 Smith, W.P. Haskett: his book: Climbing in the British Isles, 92264
Smythe, A.: 'Excursions to Bara Bangahal and Lahul', 78 179 Smythe, F.S.: books on, 81 180; 91 249 Smythe, Nona: 'Francis Sydney Smythe: mountain photographer (1900-49)', 81 180 Snailham, R.: his book: Sangay survived, 85251 Snellgrove, D.: his book: Himalayan Pilgrimage, 89239 Snoswell, D.M.: 'The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta', 78 78 Snow-caves: in New Zealand, 74 79 Snow-crystals: note on, 79274 Snowdonia: despoilment of, 78 268 SOderberg, E.A Bo: 'Mountaineering in Sweden', 77 54 'Haggsta', 77 187 Solar energy: giant furnace in the Pyrenees, 84 201 Solari, Mary Elizabeth: obit. 92298 Solimana, Nevado: history & 1st asc. of highest summit, 76 244 Somervell, T.R.: obit. 81272 Sondheimer, E.: 'Local knowledge is important: How not to cross from Rhum to Skye', 88 77 Editor of Alpine Journal, 91 298; 929
GENERAL INDEX
Sondre Trolltind: 2nd asc. of Hoibakk's chimney', 76 191 Sonnier, G.: his book: La Montagne et ['Homme, 76309 Soray (Humantay): new route by S ridge, 74262 Sosbun Glacier: explorations, 91 49 map, 91 50 South America: notes & new climbs: 81245 88208 83243 89224 85228 90237 86231 91218 87224 92226 M.E.F. note, 92 239 South Atrak Zorn: correct name of, 75 169 South Greenland: new climbs, 80271 South Parbati Range: expedition to & ascs., 79 121 South Pembroke: rock climbing hazards, 90 148 ill. 90 144-5 South West Africa: events & trends 1974-76, 82232 South West England: new climbs, 80 273 Soviet mountaineering: 80 89 Space science: recent developments, 83 252 Spain: area notes & new climbs, 74 179; 87 216 Spitzmeilen: asc., 74 84 Spring, I.: his book: (with H. Edwards) 100 Hikes in the Alps, 85252 Stamps: covers & cachets from Nepal Himalaya, art. 85 110 Starkey, G.: obit. 80 301 Staunings Alps: art. 81 143 Steck, A.: his book: (with S. Roper) Ascent, 86260 Steel, D.: death, 78204 Steele, Mt: by SE ridge, 74 242 Steele, P.: 'Pierre Vergez', 81 55 his books: Two and two halves to Bhutan, 76 307 Medical Care for Mountain Climbers, 82263 Stefan, W.: 'ChitraI1971', 78 183 'Kaghan 1972', 78 185 'Sia Kangri (7422m) 1974 Diary', 80151 'Huandoy - Chopicalqui', 82 165
53
Stelbox, D.: his book: (with C. Torrans) Rock Climbing in Ireland, 91 261 Step-cutting: early, 76 280; 80 277 Stephen, L.: centenary tribute to, 77 1 Editor of Alpine Journal, 79 167 Steuri, E.: mountain guide, death, 77 297 Steven, c.R.: his books: The Central Highlands, 74381 The Story of the Scottish Hills 81267 Stighorn: 1st asc. by SW buttress, 74 172 Stirling Range (W Australia): climbs in, 79 30 Stobart, R.E.: obit. 85 267 Stocken, C.M.: his book: Andalusian flowers and Countryside, 74 378 Stor Skagast0lstind: centenary climb, 82233; 83 109-11 Strand magazine: mountains in, 84144 Strath, Sir W.: obit. 81 274 Stretchers: motorised, 74 312 comparison of mountain rescue, 74314 Strutt, E.L.: his rescue of Austrian Emperor, 74343 Stubaierspitze: 1st asc., 79 17 Stubbs, P.: 'Science Notes': 1975 81 253; 1976 82 25; 1977 83250 Stuck, H.: his book: The Ascent of Denali, 84 257 Sturm, G.: his book: Erfolg am Kantsch, 82264; 84261 Styles, S.: his books: Backpacking, a comprehensive guide Backpacking in Alps and Pyrenees, 82260 Sucai Zorn: asc., 74 203 Siidpfalz: climbing area, 85 209 Summers, G.: obit. 78292 Summerton, Capt. R.: obit. 81 270 Sun Kosi river: jet-boat expedition to, 74 233 Sunday Peak (Carstensz): 1st & solo asc. by N face, 78 193 Sundt, E.: obit. 79 285 Surgy: climbs at, 83 143 Sutton, J.: 'Medical problems of high altitude', 78 153 Swabian Alps: 80 211
54
INDEX
TO VOLUMES 74-92
Swargarohini: 1st asc., 80 197 map, 80195 Swat Kohistan: ascs. in, 76218 Swat-Chitral watershed: account of travel in, 82 161 Swaziland: events & trends 1974-76, 82232 Sweden: mountaineering in, 77 54 map, 77 55 Swift, H.: his book: The Trekkers guide to the Himalaya and Karakoram 88246 Swindin, Barbara: 'Perpetual second', 85 102 Swiss Alpine Club: book: Nos Carte5 Nationales, a history of mapmaking in Switzerland, 8S 254 Swiss National Tourist Office: book: Sights and Scenes of Switzerland, 85253 Switzerland: notes, 74 176-9 1971 British ascs. in central, 77 241 in the 18th century, art. 8657 Sword, the (Patagonia): 1st asc., 78 196 TABLE MOUNTAIN: history of, 83 120-7; 85 182-9 ill. 83 120 Tafelberg: 81 129 Tafonato, Capo: traversed, 74 180 Tah Ratum: 1st asc., 83 237 Tairono, Pico: asc., 7882 Tairraz, G. (fils): 'The Tairraz family of Chamonix', 80 161 Takahashi, A.: 'Manaslu West Wall 1971', 77 26 Takushi, Y.: his book: Gurja Hima11969, 76 310 Talbot, 1.0.: his book: Central Switzerland, 75 315 Talefre, Aig. de: 1st asc., 84 207 Tambillos, Nevado: Indian remains on, 76 248 Tan Hill Inn: 80 79 Tangley, Lord: obit. 79286 Tanner, Col. C.H.B.: Victorian surveyor-artist, art. 83 12 Tapes: breaking strain of, 80 278 Tararua, Cerro: asc., 75 225 Tiischhorn-Dom traverse: 85 106-7 Tasermiut fjord: 74 284 Tashi Lapcha La: crossed, 86 99
Tasker, 1.: 'Techniques and equipment for winter ice', 81 48 'Small expeditions', 8221 'Kangchenjunga North Ridge 1979', 8549 his books: Everest the Cruel Way, 87259 Savage Arena, 88230 loss of, 88 263 obit. & port. 88 270 Tasman, Mt: ascs., 74 237 ill. 8262 Tasmania: mountains, 86 17 sea cliffs, 86 27 map, 8618 Tasuit Tower: ill. 83 152 attempted, 83 153-8 Tatra: visit to the Slovak High, 74 95 British alpinists in the, 79 153; 80286 ill. art. 81 121 description of, 82 81 ill. 82 81-2, 233 notes on traverse of main ridge, 82233 Taurus Mts: notes, 7S 151 description of, 76 119 Taweche: 1st & 2nd ascs. of Basa's Gully, 77 11 Tayapampa: 2nd asc., 74248 Taylor, C.H.: 'Alpine Thunderstorms', 80 173 obit. 81 274 Taylor, E.E.T.: death, 77 296 obit. 78293 Taylor, 1.L.: obit. 84 265 Taylor, R.: his book: The Breach, 91 246 Techado Negro: 2nd asc., 74 274 Temple, 1.: his book: (with A. Walker) Kirinyaga, 80 291 Temple, P.: his book: Castles in the Air, 89249 Tenerife: 89 174 Tenzing, Dawa: obit. & port. 91 270 Tenzing, Norgay: his book: After Everest, 83 265 obit. 92287 Terijuay group: climbing notes & map, 74 264 ill. 74 268-9 Terrordactyl: note, 76274
GENERAL
Teton, Grand: by N face, 77 157 by Black Ice Couloir, 77 158 Teves, M.C.: obit. 88256 Thamserku: 89 47 W ridge, 89 189 Thank God glacier: 74 282 Tharkot: attempts, 75 195 art. 90 100; map, 90 101 ill. following 90 104 Theobald, E.L.: obit. 90281 Theodulpass: history of, 75 87 Thesiger, W.: his book: Desert, Marsh and Mountain, 87 251 Thexton, P.: obit. & port. 89249 Thompson, A.J.: his book: Ortler Alps, 74 380 Thompson, B.: 'Two new routes in Romsdal: Kongen and Mongejura', 74150 Thompson, C.W.H.: obit. 75338 Thompson, Silvanus: alpine painter, art. 81 116 Thomson, Sir L.: obit. 83 273 Thornhill, P.: 'The Big Triple Tick', 92 165 Thorpe, T.A.: obit. 89258 Three Peaks yacht race: 86 236 Thui I & II: correct hts. of, 74 216; 76216 Thui II: attempt from Shetor glacier, 75179 climbed, 84 58 ill. 8459, 62; map, 8460 Thunderstorms & lightning: behaviour in, 80 174, 183 Tibet: exploration in, 8784-6 table of mountains, 87 97-9 topography, art. 91 84; map, 91 85 asc. of Tibet's highest peak, art. 92104 Tieing-on: standardized method of, for mountain centres, 74338 Tierra del Fuego: expeditions to, 85141 maps, 85 140, 143 Tilman, H.W.: his books: Ice with Everything, 81263 Triumph & Tribulation, 83263 selected writings: Adventures under Sail, 88 236 The Seven Mountain Travel Books, 89 238 a tribute, 84 132
INDEX
55
Tiquimani, Cordillera Real: 1st asc. of W ridge, 83245 Tirich Mir: 4th asc., 75 81, 165 Japanese attempt from N, 75 166 asc. by Spanish expedition, 79199, 254; ill. 79 199, 200 1st asc. listed, 89 186 book: Sette Anni Contra II Tirich, history of mountaineering & exploration in region, 84263 Tirone, A.: his book: (with L. Bersezio) Mont Blanc, 90266 Tobias, M.: his book: (editor with H. Drasdo) The Mountain Spirit, 85255 Tocclaraju, Nevado: asc., 7443 Tofana di Mezzo, Pta Anna: 1st asc. by SW diedre (via Julian), 76202 Tombazi, N.A.: obit. 92296 T0nsberg, H.: obit. 92 302 Torasan: climbed, 86 162 Toro, Colle el: 1st crossing, 75 4 Toro, El: attempt by W face, 76 143 Torrans, C.: his book: (with D. Stelfox) Rock Climbing in Ireland, 91 261 Torre Cerredo: 86 172 Torre, Cerro: cancellation of French 1958 expedition, 74274 Torre di Brenta: 1st asc., 87 162 Torrone Peaks (Bregaglia): 1st ascs., 87 167 Tortolas, Cerro: discovery of Indian remains on, 74 273 Totem Pole, Monument Valley: 8413 Toubkal massif: new ascs., 75 148; 76 204 Tour, Col du: crossed, 7490 Toverkop: history of, 7999 Town, J.: 'Back in the USSR', 86126 'Ararat Revisited', 89 145 'In the Altai', 90 47 Towne, F.: mountain painter, 85 38 Townshend, E.V.: death, 75285 obit. 76336 Trango: attempt, 8145; ill. 81 46 art. 82 184 climbed, 82 184, 237 main tower, 1st asc., 83 237 Trans-Alai Pamir: Polish expedition to, 75 162 new climbs, 80 263
56
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Transcending: in Devon & Cornwall, 79 145 Transvaal: events & trends 1974-76, 82232 Tremonti, M.: 'The first ascent of Parvati Peak, Kulu 1968', 7553 Trevanian: his book: The Eiger Sanction, 80 291 Triglav: ill. 82 94 Triolet, Aig. de: by N face, 74 175 Trisul: ascs., 74229; 76226 1st asc. of S face, 83 238 Japanese expedition to, 85 193 map, 85195 Tritton, N.P.: 'The Ascent of Thui II', 84 58 Trivor: 1st asc. listed, 89 185 Trollope, A.: mention of Alpine Club in his novel Can you Forgive her, 74342 Trollryggen: ascs. of E pillar, 74 172 by Rimmon route, 76 190 by French route, 76 191 winter asc. of N face, 81 172 Trolltind wall: 'Archwall' 1st asc., 78233 Trono Blanco (Patagonia): 1st asc., 75 236 Truuli Peak (Kenai Range): 1st asc., 74243 Tscherner, Dr von: obit. 90289 Tuchal: ski asc., 75 157 Tuckett Hut, Dauphine: re-opening as museum, 92 317 Tufnell, L.: his book: Glacier Hazards, 90265 Tukucha (Tukche): 1st authorised asc., 75 197 asc. of W peak, 76 229 early ascs., 79 191 attempt, 79 194; ill. 79 193 Tullis, Julie: mentioned in art., 89 18 (with K. Diemberger) 'A Sortie on Broad Peak', 90 54 her book: Clouds from Both Sides, 92268 Tunnels, in the Alps: art. 84 122 note, 86247 Tunuyan Valley (Andes): ascs. in, 75 223 Tunzelmann, von, N.: 'Recent New Zealand Developments', 74 71 Tupungato: asc., 74 273
74-92
Turin CA.!.: 'Climbs near Turin Denti di Cumiana', 87 137 Turkey: new climbs, 80 263 accident & rescue in, 86 165 mountaineering in, 92 140-5 Turmelle, R.: 'A mile in the sky', 8734 Turnbull, R.: 'Northern Norway - a personal view', 87 46 Turner, J.M.W.: Alpine painter, ill. arts. 84 31; 8541 Turner, L.: his book: (with J. Ash) The Golden Hordes, 82261 T.V.: climbing films on, 86256 Tyrol: by-ways of South, 74 343 Tyson, Diana: 'Fortunat Enderlin letters to a Client', 90 201 'Climbing in the Swiss Alps 1893', 92176 Tyson, J.: 'Return to Kanjiroba', 75 114 'Exploring Bhutan's North-West', 83183 Tyssen-Gee, R.: obit. 89 271 UCCELLO, PIZZO D': asc., 78 129 Udren Zorn: 1st asc. of Speak, 74200 asc. from W, 77 246 1st asc. of Central peak, 83 237 Uganda: new climbs, 80260 Uhrig, Dr J.: (with Dr P. Dawson) 'Sherpas & Sickness', 89 80 U.LA.A.: meeting of Commission de Material de Securite, 74316 1968 Assembly, 74359 election of new President, 74 360 meeting in Prague, 75290 meet of young alpinists in Belgium, 75 290 notes, 76 297 standard for climbing equipment, 85236 50th Anniversary Celebrations, 8855
book: De Chamonix a Kathmandu (the first 50 years of U.I.A.A.) 88247 Ullman, J.R.: his book: And not to Yield, 76310 Ulugh Muztagh: Tibet's highest peak ascended, 92 104 Underhill, Miriam: climbing career, 82 112-3; 83 81 obit. 82272
GENERAL
Underhill, R.L.M.: obit. 89266 United States: new climbs & notes: 83242; 84235; 85 227; 86 230 University reading parties: 80 285 Unsoeld, Nanda Devi: death, 82239 Unsoeld, W.: obit. 85268 Unsworth, W.: his books: The Book of Rock Climbing, 74 370 North Face, the second conquest of the Alps, 75309 Encyclopaedia of Mountaineering, 81 266; 83 264 Everest, 87245 (editor) Peaks, Passes and Glaciers, 87251 This Climbing Game, 90277 Classic Walks of the World, 91262 Savage Snows. The Story of Mont Blanc, 92 260 Unwin, D.J.: his book: Mountain Weather for Climbers, 84260 Urgunt (Urgend): 2nd asc. by Swiss route, 75 178 Urubamba, Cordillera: Irish expedition to, 74262 ascs. in, 76 244; 77 253 Urus, Nevado: asc., 7443 Ushko Zorn: 1st asc., 74 203 Uzum Brakk (Conway's Ogre): attempt, 86 191 VAILL, E.E.: 'Mountaineering in China', 90 23 Valais: new climbs, 87 212 Valette, L.G.: 'The phenomenon of 14th July on the Cervin', 85 97 Valla, F.: his book: (with J-P Zuanon) Pamir, 82262 Vallepiana, Count U. di: obit. 84270 Valuga: asc., 75 124 Vancouver, Mt: asc. of S peak by SW ridge, 74 242 Vatna J6kull: 1st crossing 1875, 80 234 ski-touring possibilities, 86 122 Vaud: outcrops in, art. 84 141 Venables, Ann: 'Ski-touring at fifty', 88 92 Venables, S.: 'Some climbs in Peru and Bolivia', 88 44
INDEX
57
Venables, S.: 'West of the Baltoro, a Personal Appraisal', 88194 'Kishtwar-Shivling', 89 30 'Finsteraarhorn, a Winter Expedition', 89 129 'India 1983. The Indian Himalaya - An Historic Appraisal', 89 208 'Autumn in Shimshal and Naltar', 9064 (with D. Wilkinson) 'Siachen Expedition 1985', 91 19 his book: Painted Mountains, 92255 Venezuela: triennial report 1971-73, 79228 events & trends 1974-76, 82220 new climbs, 84237 the Sierra Nevada de Merida, art. 92 20 Ventoux, Mt: art. 83128-32 Venus: surface topography, 87229 Verdon Gorge: climbing in, 83234 Veron, G.: his book: Haute Randonm?e Pyrem?enne, 80291 Verte, Aig.: ski descent of Whymper Couloir, 74 349 Veyret, P. & G.: their book: Atlas et Geographie de la France Moderne - Les Alpes Francais, 86 260 Vibrams: origin of, 74 324; 75 274 Viereselgrat: 87 15, 64 Vignemale: 80 135 Vilcabamba, Cordillera de: NZ expedition to Pumasillo area, 74257 ascs. in, 74 260; 76 243; 78 83 Vilcanota, Cordillera de: ascs. in, 75 219; 76 245; 77 253 Villar, R.: 'Everest North Facea Doctor's View', 90 110 Viso, Monte: 1st asc. from NE, 86213 Vogler"R.: his book: Les Etats Unis, 90 277 Volcanic eruptions: forecasting of, 84 247 Vosges: description of & climbs in, 79149 Vychodny Vysoka: traversed, 74 100 WADDINGTON, MT: 1st winter asc., 75 207
58
INDEX
TO VOLUMES 74-92
Wade, H.W.R.: 'A visit to Japan', 81 59 Wadi Rum: mountains in Jordan, art. 91109 Wainwright, A.W.: his book Fell Walking with Wainwright, 90275 Wakhan Gol: 1st ascs. around, 76215 art. & climbing possibilities, 84 36 Wala, J.: 'Routes leading to Pik Kommunizma', 78 173 Wales: notes, 74295; 80274 Welsh Rock, book on history of Welsh rock-climbing, 92257 Wales, Prince of, H.R.H.: his book: The Old man of Lochnagar, 88 243 Walker, J.P.: death, 75285 obit. 76337 Walker, Lucy: climbing career, 81 93-4 Walker Spur: art. 'The Big Triple Tick', 92 165 Walkers' Guidebooks: The Munros, 92256 The High Mountains of Britain and Ireland, 92 256 Walters, B.: his book: Piste Again, 90 264 Waltham, A.C.: his book: The World of Caves, 86259 Walton, A.: his book: (with J. Russell) Turner in Switzerland, 83 260 Wangyal's Peak (Bara Bangahal): 1st asc., 78 180 ascended, 7922, 27 Wannehorn, Gross: asc., 75 128 Ward, E.D.: obit. 88256 Ward, M.: 'Man and the Mountain environment', 74 133 'Frost-bite', 76 70 his books: In this Short Span, 78270 Mountain Medicine, 81231 'Mountain literature - then and now',8115 'Exercise oedema & mountain sickness', 85 168 'The Kongur Massif in Southern Xinjiang', 86 7 'Science on Mount Kongur', 87 65 'The Eastern Himalaya', 90 10 Ward-Drummond, E.: 'Out of the midday sun: the Lost Arrow Chimney', 74 92
Warren, c.: 'A Whymper Pilgrimage', 84 175 'An Alpine Bibliographical Curiosity', 89 141 'The Children's Corner in the AC Library', 91 145 (with P. Bicknell) 'Homage to J.M.W. Turner', 91161 Washington, Mt: climbing history, art. 87 34 Watanabe, H.: death, 76229 Water: drinking, on expeditions, 74326 Waterberg Mts: ascs. in, 75 71 Waterfalls, climbing on frozen: 8360,242 Waterman, J.: his book: Surviving Denali, 90 266 Watson, A.: (with others) his book: The Cairngorms, 74381 Watson, Sir N., Bt: obit. 89272 Watts, N.H.L.: obit. 75339 Weber, K.: death, 79279 obit. & port. 80 303 Webster, E.: 'North American Assortment', 90 153 Wegener, A.: meteorologist, 8043, 62 Weibel, M.: his book: Die Mineralien der Schweiz, 85252 Weissfluh: ski descent, 75 125 Welch, Ann: her book: Accidents happen - Anticipation, Avoidance, Survival, 84 260 Wenck, R.: death, 75347 West Irian (New Guinea): notes, 82241 Western Cape: events & trends 1974-76, 82 227 Westmacott, Sally: 'The Obsessional Journey', 90 193 Westmorland, Lt.Col. H.: obit. 90 291 Wetterhorn: an asc. in 1884, 86 118 an early winter asc., 86 212 Whalley, E.: Canadian Arctic & Alaska, notes: 89221; 91215; 92223 Wheaton, A.: 'Brammah 1978', 84 103 'The British Kishtwar Himalayan expedition 1979', 86 181 Whillans, D.: quoted, 86205 obit. & port. 91 273
GENERAL INDEX
Whillans box: construction & uses of, 74 324; 76 278 Whitehouse, Millicent: obit. 90 285 Whiteley, E.J.: obit. 91281 Whittow, J.: his book: Disasters the Anatomy of Environmental Hazards, 86257 Whymper: his 'crosses in the sky' art. 8597 a pilgrimage, art. 84 175 Whyte, J.S.: 'The Ladder of Life', 86 110 Wiedman, M.: poem 'Ultima Thule Everest', 92 98 Wielicki, K.: 'Broad Peak climbed in one day', 90 61 Wiesbachhorn, Gross: ski descent of NW face, 75 34 Wife Peak (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 75 166 Wilberforce, W.: his diary: Journey to the Lake District from Cambridge 1979, 90 270 Wilberforce Smith, B.: 'Bernina Bummel', 78 139 Wilderness areas: in Britain, 79 274 Wildspitze: ski asc., 75 127 Wilkinson, D.: (with S. Venables) 'Siachen Expedition 1985', 9119 Williams, Cicely: her book: Women on the Rope, 79251 'The Feminine Share in Mountain Adventure', 81 90; 82 103; 8379 obit. 91285
Williams, H.: obit. 77 293 Williams, P.: his book: Snowdonia Rock Climbs, 88 250 Williams, R.: obits. 85 268; 86 271 Willis, Phyllida: 'Ti}e Appalachian Trail Pt. 2', 88 118 Wilmott, A.: death, 78 264, 281 Wilson, Jim: his book: Aorangi: the story of Mount Cook, 74 374 Wilson, John: 'A long Haute Route 1968: from Austria to France on Ski', 7483 his book: (with D. Hope) Wye Valley, 83 248 Wilson, K.: his books: Hard Rock, 80 249 Classic Rock, 84 257 (editor) Games Climbers Play, 85248
(with R. Gilbert) The Big Walks,
59
Wilson, K.: his books: 86 253 (compiler with R. Gilbert) Classic Walks, 88 234 (with D. Alcock & J. Barry) Cold Climbs, 89 244 Wilson, M.H.: obit. 92293 Wilton, A.: his book: William Pars. Journey through the Alps, 85255 Wind chill: 86 139 Wind River Range: 1st ascs., 83 217 Winds: effect in mountains, art. 81 81 Winkler, J.: his book: (with W. Pause) 100 Sealate Estreme, 85 253 Winter, J.: 'A field study of acute mountain sickness', 81217 Winter climbing: in 1971-72, 788 in New Zealand, 78244 Winter Sports statistics: 83 257 Wiren, S.A.: death, 77 272 Wojcik, W.A.: his book: Wierchy The Jubilee Issue, 91 251 Wolf, J.: his book: Reka Jmenem Cervanky (River of Dawn), 82264 Wolfe, J.: his book: (with B. Dominick) A Climbers Guide to Joshua Tree NM, 83242
Women: highest summits climbed by, 75173
Women climbers: arts. 81 90; 82 103; 83 79 Woodgate, Amy: death, 74 396 Wookey Hole: diving in, 83 172 Worthington, W.G.: obit. 88256 Wroe, Marjory: 'With young folks on the Haute Route', 87 20 Wroe, S.: his book: Rock Climbing, 85 255 Wyllie, P.J.: his book: The Way the Earth works - an introduction to the New Global Geology and its Revolutionary Development, 82263
Wyn-Harris, Sir P.: obit. & port. 87 270 Wyss-Dunant, Dr. E.: obit. 89262 YAKUSHI, Y.: 'Gurja Himal: first ascent 1969', 75 17
60
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
Yalung Kang: 1st asc., 8025 new route, 81 242 1973 Kyoto University Expedition, 82264 Yamamoto Ryozo: 'First Ascent of Churen Himal', 77 105 Yamnuska: climbs on, 75 104 Yarigatake: 8161-2 Yeld, G.: Editor of A.J., 80120-7 Yerupaja: 1st asc. of N summit, 7411
main & S summits ascended, 7412, 13 traverse, 74 13, 14 1st asc. & descent by NE face, 7415 1st asc. by a woman, 74 12 climbing history, 74253 1st asc. by E ridge, 75 212 1st asc. by S face, 83 243 Yerupaja Chico: 1st asc. by SW face, 75 212 Yeti: reports, 80 101; 83256; 84254 Yomemoto, T.: death, 76229 Yorkshire: new climbs, 80275 Yosemite: ascs. in, 74 242; 76 239; 78 247; 80237 climbing, arts. 74 92, 125 Yoshizawa, 1.: 'Mountaineering in Japan', 79128 Young, J. & G.W.: 'Norwegian Centenary', 83 109 Yugoslavia: see Jugoslavia Yukon: climbing history, 83 25-8 new climbs, 85 226 a winter excursion, art. with photos, 91 120 Yukon river: descent of, 74 244
74-92
ZAGROS MOUNTAINS: ski-ing in, 83 102 pipeline, 86241 Zanskar: a journey through, art. 88 139 Zapelli, C.: his book: Sulle Montagne degli Incas, 86255 Zawada, A.: his book (with others): Gipfelsturm in Karakorum, 84261 'Noshaq in winter', 79 11 'Winter at 8,250 metres', Polish expedition to Lhotse 1974, 8228 'Mount Everest, the first winter ascent', 89 50 Zermatt: centenary of the English Church, 75 279 development of, 81 262-3 Zhang, R.: his book: Mount Qomolangma - the highest in the world, 89 250 Zocca, Piz: 1st asc. of WSW antecima by ESE ridge, 74 177 art. 75 48-52 Zoology: see Science Notes Zuanon, J.-P.: 'An invitation to Mont Aiguille', 80 83 'The Chartreuse', 82 120 his book: (with F. Valla) Pamir, 82262 Zululand: 87 111-13 Zurcher, A.: obit. & port. 85269
GENERAL INDEX
61
SPECIAL DISTRICTS A list of articles and maps (but not Regional or Area notes) which describe mountain areas and expeditions, explorations or climbs in them. EUROPE 1. British Isles
Sea Stacks. By J.S. Cleare, 7947 Transcending in Devon and Cornwall. By H. Sales, 79 145 Moorland Marathons. By P. Brockbank, 8071 From Zero to Astronomy. By A. Fyffe, 80185 In Quest of the Ultimate. By F. Rogerson, 81 40 The Napes Pinnacle. By W.P. Haskett-Smith, 8153 Cragwork in Cumberland. By W.P. Haskett-Smith, 8242 Mountaineering in Winter. Some expeditions in the Lake District. By H.A. Gwynne, 84 177 Mountaineering in Ireland. By J.P.O'F. Lynam, 85 162 Avalanche on Ben Nevis. By J. King, 86 146 Games in a private world. (Sea cliff climbing in Cornwall) By M. Fowler, 87 67 Loc?1 Knowledge is Important. How not to cross from Rhum to Skye. By E. Sondheimer, 88 77 Cold Climbing in Cymru. By J. Barry, 89165 South Pembroke Hazards. By R. Brown, 90 148 Winter Climbing on Beinn an Dothaidh. By K. Crocket, 91 129 Maps: The Peak and South Pennines, 80 70 2. France Corsica. By T. Connor, 78 144 Mountain landscape - the Jura. By E. Pyatt & M. Brandt, 78 146 Mountain landscape - the Vosges. By E. Pyatt & J. Russell, 79149 An invitation to Mont AiguilIe. By J.-P. Zuanon, 8083 Montagne Saint-Victoire. By E. Shepherd, 80 189 The Chartreuse. By J.-P. Zuanon, 82 120 Mont Ventoux. By M. Craig, 83 128 The Calanques. By A. Lucchesi, 85 21 Corsica mountains. By R.G. Collomb, 87 100 Maps: The Calanques, 85 24-5 Corsica, 87 101 The Cinto Massif, 87 102 3. Scandinavia Two new routes in Romsdal: Kongen and Mongejura. By B. Thompson, 74150 Mountaineering in Sweden. By E.A. Bo Soderberg, 77 54 Winter Climbing in Lyngen. By J.M.G. Sheridan, 8067 Trollryggen North Face in Winter. By T. Piotrowski, 81172 Scandinavian Ski trave'rse. By A. Blackshaw, 8390 Norwegian Centenary. By J. & G. Winthrop Young, 83 109
62
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
Northern Norway - a personal view. By R. Turnbull, 8746 Maps: Scandinavian Ski traverse, 83 90 North Norway, 8746 4. Caucasus British-Soviet Caucasus Expedition. By H. McInnes, 76 111 Back in the USSR. By J. Town, 86 126 The International Mountaineering Camp 1984. By D.J. Broadhead, 92 122 The British Caucasus Expedition 1986. By A.V. Saunders, 92 129 5. Tatras A flying visit to the Slovak High Tatra. By 1. Clough, 74 95 British Alpinists in the Tatra. By A. Kus, 79 153 The Tatra Mountains. By M. Brniak, 81 119 6. Turkey The Taurus Mountains. By H. Elwood, 76 119 Turkey 1980. Torasan, Kackar and Mountain Rescue. By S. Nowill, 86 159 Ararat Revisited. By J. Town, 89 145 Olympian Triad. By J.G.R. Harding, 92 141 Maps: Taurus Mountains, 76 119 7. The Pyrenees and Spain The National Park of the Western Pyrenees. By J.M. Russell, 80 129 Pierre Vergez. By P. Steele, 81 55 A progress in Pyreneisme. By K. Reynolds, 84 21 Cirques and canons of the Pyrenees. By J.G.R. Harding, 86 71 The Picos de Europa. By L.c. Baume, 86 171 Across the High Pyrenees. By K. Reynolds, 88 145 Not the Accursed Mountain. By K. Reynolds, 89 84 Twenty-four hours in Trevelez. By L. Griffin, 89 116 A very Proper Enthusiasm. By K. Reynolds, 90 166 Short of the Folding Stuff. By T. Price, 91 183 Packe of the Pyrenees. By K. Reynolds, 92 156 Maps: The National Park of the Western Pyrenees, 80 138 Sierra Nevada, 89 119 8. Other Districts The 1971 eruption of Mount Etna. By B. Booth, 7766 Pindos Range: Timfi Massif. By R. Fedden, 78 25 In Terra de Romagne. By A. Heppenstall, 78 121 Recent activity on Mount Etna. By B. Booth, 78 137 A first impression of Biokova. By E. Shepherd, 81 203 Mountains and Rocks in Czechoslovakia. By J. Jurak, 8273 The Julian Alps - Kugy's Kingdom. By H. Brown, 82 95 Grigna. By L. Gasparini & F. Della Beffa, 83 106 The Circuit of Andorra. By T.A.H. Peacocke, 83 160 Olympian Triad. By J.G.R. Harding, 92 136 Pic Ruivo Interlude (Madeira). By A. Husbands, 92 163 The British, Kugy and Western Slovenia. By K. Rozman, 92 182
GENERAL INDEX
63
Maps: Italy - major mountain groups, 78 122 Gran Sasso, 78 125 Mount Etna, 78 138 Climbers Playgrounds
- Europe
Grigna. By J. Cleare, 76 169 Chalk Climbing in France. By E. Pyatt, 76 173 Saussois. By C. Davies, 77 183 The Calanques. By E. Shepherd, 77 185 Haggsta. By E.A. Bo Soderberg, 77 187 Outcrop Climbing from Rome. By A. Heppenstall, 77 188 Sandstone rocks in Czechoslovakia. By K. Hetman, 78 116 North-Western France. By E. Pyatt, 78 117 Practice Crags in Scandinavia. By R. Barley, 78 119 The Dentelles de Montmirail. By E. Pyatt, 79 207 Peilstein - A well-known Viennese training mountain. By H. Peterka, 79 208 Montserrat. By C. Mont, 79 210 Climbing in the Swabian Alps in SW Germany. By W. Frey, 80211 Burgundy - The Cote d'Or. By E. Pyatt, 80 213 Climbing on the Saleve. By P. Bossus, 80214 Languedoc Limestone. By C. Mont, 80218 The Caroux. By C. Mont, 81 212 Training grounds of Poland. By M. Brniak, 81 213 Angouleme - The Rocks of Eaux-Claires. By T. Connor, 81215 The Valleys of the Creuse and the Anglin. By G. Richard, 81 217 The Palava Rocks. By J. Jurak, 82 143 The Rocher Saint-Julien. By M. Craig, 82 144 La Pedriza del Manzanares. By M. Redondo de la Puz, 82 145 The Rocks of the Aveyron Gorge. By T. Connor, 82 147 Climbing in the Franconian Jura in South Germany. By R. Buchner, 83 139 Climbing in the Elbsandsteingebirge (East Germany). By D. Hasse, 83140 The rocks at Surgy (Nievre, France). By G. Richard, 83 143 Sea Cliff Climbing at Gaeta. By G. Battimelli, 84 139 Outcrops in Vaud. By C. Mont, 84 141 Climbing in the Black Forest. By J. Schneider, 84 142 Fontainebleau. By C. Mont, 85 208 Sudpfalz (South Palatinate). By J. Schneider, 85209 Climbs near Turin. (1) Rocca Sbarua. By CAI-Turin, 86 152 Nordeifel. By J. Schneider, 86 153 Hauteroche. By M. Rebiffe, 86 157 More rocks in Central France. By C. Mont, 87 135 Climbs near Turin. (2) Denti di Cumiana. By CAI-Turin, 87 137 Rotenfels. By J. Schneider, 87 139 The Bruchhauser Steine. By J. Schneider, 88 130 Climbs in Champagne: Vertus. By M. Rebiffe, 88 133 Freyr. By C. Mont, 88 134 Alps - general
Italian Climbing between the Wars. By R. Cassin, 77 149 A married man's Alpine holiday. By R. Brooke, 81196 Summers in and around the Swiss Prealps. By C. Kemp, 84 92 Perpetual second. By B. Swindin, 85 102 A grand high level route. By D.B. Duffield, 8741
64
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
An Introduction to Mountains. By J. Gibson, 91 179 The Big Triple Tick or Scrambles in the Nordwands. By P. Thornhill, 92 165 Eastern Alps
Climbs in the Allievi Cirque, Bregaglia. By N. Rogers, 7548 Return to the Alps. By 1. Howell, 76 105 Piz Badile for the Over-seventies. By W. Kirstein, 77 48 Once again, Engadine and Bregaglia. By W. Kirstein, 78 133 The Grossglockner: its climbs and pioneers. By E. Roberts, 82 189 Piz Balzetto, Bregaglia. By W. Kirstein, 82 197 Too much snow on Piz Gliischaint. By W. Kirstein, 83 178 Albigna Valley 1978. By W. Kirstein, 84183 Cacciabella. By W. Kirstein, 85 199 The Biancograt. By M. Baldwin, 89 138 Fuorikante. By K. Neal, 90 145 The Oberreintal. By 1. Chrystal, 91 122 Mont Blanc
Brenva ice. By D. Gray, 74 123 New route on the Grand Pilier d'Angle. By E. Chrobak, 7595 Pointe Helene. By E. Chrobak, 77 61 Winter Climbing III the Mont Blanc Massif. By H. Agresti, 77 197 The North face of Les Courtes. By 1. Rowe, 7823 Les Courtes solo. By M. Coleman, 80 141 Grands Charmoz in Winter. By R. Collister, 8165 A Day on the North ridge of the Peigne. By C.V. Beechey, 82 186 Mont Blanc again after 28 years. By C. Beechey, 85 17 Winter Climbing on the Peigne, Scottish Style. By A. Nisbet, 89 134 Pennine Alps
The Theodulpass: a history. By B. Harriss, 7587 The Monte Moro Pass and the Col d'Herens. By B. Harris, 76 127 Travel and Trade in the Pennine Alps. By B. Harriss, 77 175 Memories of Arolla and Fafler Alp. By F.G. Irving, 86 188 The Dent Blanche. By M. Craig, 87 9 Bernese Alps
Suddenly all Hell Broke loose (Eigerwand). By B. Nally, 7467 Specialists on the Eiger. Epicures on the Lauper route. By B.W.J. Griffiths, 77139 Filming on the Nordwand. By L. Dickinson, 77 144 Lauterbrunnen Breithorn - North face. By R. Barton, 79 71 One and a half in the Alps. By D. Challis, 79203 Memories of a first season. By L.J.G. Preston, 8730 First ascent of the Galenstock (1845). By E. Desor, 87 58 A Long Day on the Schreckhorn. By L.J.G. Preston, 88 170 Finsteraarhorn. A Winter Expedition. By S. Venables, 89 129 Dear Dad. (Eigerwand) By P. Mould, 90 140 Maps: Concordiaplatz, Aletschgletscher & Finsteraarhorn, 89 130 Dolomites
The North face of Monte Agner. By M. Mortimer, 7436
GENERAL
INDEX
65
A big leaning wall - Cima Ovest in photos. By D. Scott, 75 59 Western Alps Mountains of paradise. By J.G.R. Harding, 82 133 Ten Dauphine ice climbs. By L. Griffin & J. Brailsford, 87 180 Ski-ing in the Alps A long Haute Route 1968. By J. Wilson, 74 83 Some extreme ski runs. By K. Lapuch, 75 31 Sixty years off-piste: reflections of a ski-mountaineer. By W. Kirstein, 75 124 Ski Descent of Mont Blanc. By D.St.J. Brightman, 77 136 British Alpine Ski Traverse 1972. By P. Cliff, 78 13 Bernina Bummel. By B. Wilberforce Smith, 78 139 Ski-mountaineering in the Eastern Alps. By G. Freeman, 85176 With young folks on the Haute Route. By M. Wroe, 87 20 A Winter Diary 1925-26. By J.A.H. Bell, 8837 Ski touring at Fifty. By A. Venables, 8892 The Obsessional Journey. By S. Westmacott, 90 193 NORTH AMERICA 1. Alaska and Yukon Southern Logan Mountains 1968. By E. Maden, 74 108 The South face of Mount Dan Beard (3127m) Alaska. By R. O'Donovan, 80 63 Shining Mountains, nameless valleys: Alaska and the Yukon. By K. Andrasko & T. Moore, 8119 The South Face of Mount McKinley 1976. By D. Scott & D. Haston, 82 173 Shining Mountains, nameless valleys: Alaska and the Yukon, PUI. By T. Moore & K. Andrasko, 8323 The North Face of Mount Deborah. By C. Macquarie, 8351 Shining Mountains, nameless valleys: Alaska and the Yukon, PUll. By K. Andrasko & T. Moore, 8464 Yukon - A Winter Excursion. By Guy Sheridan, 91 120 Hunter's South Ridge - Alpine Style. By S. Richardson, 92 10 On the Junean Ice-Field. By E.P. Leahy, 92 192 Maps: Alaska and the Yukon, 81 20 Mount Hunter, 92 11 Junean Ice-field, 92 193 2. Canada (except Yukon) Calgary Climber. By B. Greenwood, 75 101 Nelson's Mountains. 1. Thomas Douglas. By W.L. Putnam, 78 1 Nelson's Mountains. 2. Goodwin Purcell. By W.L. Putnam, 79 34 The Chief. By R. Culbert, 80 105 3. Other districts Out of the mid-day sun - the Lost Arrow Chimney. By E. Ward-Drummond, 7492 Vertical Desert: the nose of El Capitan. By M. Burke, 74 125 The Salathe Wall. By C. Jones, 7525 North face of the Grand Teton and Black Ice Couloir. By J. Noble, 77 157 El Gran Trono Blanco. By I. Agresti, 82 99
66
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
Sandstone towers of the American south-west Desert. By E. BjllJrnstad, 84 10 The profit of impurism - the Shawangunk scene. By M. Robinson, 86 81 A mile in the sky. By R. Turnelle, 8734 The Colorado Plateau. By P. Hillman, 87 121 The Appalachian Trail Pt. 1. By P. Willis, 87 197 The Appalachian Trail Pt. 2. By P. Willis, 88 118 North American Assortment. By E. Webster, 90 153 SOUTH AMERICA I. Andes
Yerupaja traverse: the New Zealand expedition. By D. Adcock, 747 The Amazon face of Yerupaja: the British American expedition. By C. Jones, 7415
A Visit to the Ishinca Valley, Cordillera Blanca, 1968. By W. Amstutz, 74 39 The West face of Jirishanca 1969. By R. Cassin, 75 1 Nevado Chopicalqui, South East Ridge. By M. Clarbrough, 75 13 Huascanin: the West arc~te 1969. By P. Sherman, 75 131 El Toro. By J.V. Anthoine, 76 143 Cordillera Carabaya Expedition 1971. By K. Dilworth, 77211 The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. By D.M. Snoswell, 7878 Peru - Cordillera Vileabamba 1971. By R. Fedden, 78 83 Imperial College Cordillera Real Expedition 1972. By P. Bunting, 78201 Huascanin, East face diretissima. By E. Koblmiiller, 7939 The unconquered south face of Huandoy. By R. Schipper, 79 139 Expedition to the Millpo Group (Peru). By L. Gaetani, 81 63 Huandoy Chopicalqui. By W. Stefan, 82 165 The Central Cordillera of Colombia. By E. Echevarria, 82 49 The Cordillera Blanca of Peru as a National Park. By E. Echevarria, 85 200 Sangay survived - the first time. By T. Moore, 8628 Some Climbs in Peru and Bolivia. By S. Venables, 8844 Legends of the High Andes. By E. Echevarria, 88 85 The South-West Ridge of Huascanin Sur. By M. Harber, 88 157 The Colombian Andes, Nevado del Huila-Pico la Cresta. By C.M. Heath, 88161 The South African Cordillera Blanca Expedition 1982. By M. Scott, 88 173 Northern Andean Butterflies - Search and Research. By M. Adams, 8990 Gwent Andean Expedition 1983. By M. Rosser, 89 161 Bolivia's Royal Range. By P. Drummond, 90172 Andes Adventure. By S. Richardson, 90 184 Cordillera Apolobamba - the First Ascent of Palomani Tranca. By J. Curran, 91135
The Sierra Nevada de Merida. By L. Griffin, 92 20 Saleantay: South West Face. By P. Leeming, 9227 Three Excursions in the Peruvian Cordilleras. By R. Payne, 92 37 A Calling. By J. Gore, 9243 Early British Ascents in the Andes (1831-1946). By E. Echevarria, 9261 The British Andean Climbing Expedition 1986. By J. Nixon, 9267 Maps: Colombia, 82 50; 89 96 Huascanin Sur, 88 159 Nevado del Huila - Pico la Cresta, 88 163 Sierra Nevada de Merida, 92 21 Saleantay, Cordillera Vileabamba, 92 28
GENERAL
INDEX
67
2. Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego Fitzroy 1968. By C. Jones, 74 131 The Sword and others. By M. Scott, 78 195 Crossing the Hielo Patagonico del Norte. By Capt. C.H. Agnew, 79 43 Patagonian Ice-Cap 1971-72. By Members of the Johchi University A.C., 79237 Mount Burney. By E. Shipton, 80 1 At the eleventh hour (the first ascent of the longest rock climb in the world). By M. Scott, 80 5 Parque Nacional de los Glaciares, Patagonia. By B. Campbell-Kelly, 81191 Tierra del Fuego 1979. By J. Earle, 85 141 The East Ridge of San Lorenzo, Patagonia. By P. Fatti, 92 48 Beyond Patagonia. By I. Peters, 92 54 Maps: Tierra del Fuego, 85 140 Patagonian Ice Cap, 79239 3. Other (South American) districts The Mummer - Cordillera del Paine, Chile. By D. Cheesmond, 84117 Aconcagua South Face. By I. Komprej, 89 157 Puna de Atacama, Chile. By S. Fraser, 90 177 Maps: Puna de Atacama; OJ os del Salado, 90 178 ANTARCTIC AND ARCTIC, GREENLAND & ICELAND 1. Greenland Majorteqe (Peak BOOm) 1974. By R.D. Hoare, 80203 Traverse of the Staunings Alps. By K.J. Miller, 81143 Blubber and Boats. By R. Hoare, 89 104 Greenland: The Experience. By M. Sales, 92 189 Maps: Parts of Greenland, 89 105, 106 2. Iceland Mountaineering in Iceland - a personal appraisal. By R. Smith, 86 119 Failure on Forel. By D. Fordham & R. Hoare, 90 161 Maps: Iceland, 86 120 3. Arctic Mount Asgard. By D. Scott, 78 85 The Uttermost North. By M. Banks, 79 174 Baffin Island adventure. By M. Scott, 83153 To the Place of Graves. By D. Fordham, 89 108 4. Antarctic Elephant Island. By C.H. Agnew of Lochnaw Yr., 77 204 The Exploration of the Antarctic Peninsula. By S. Fraser, 89 97 Joint Services Expedition to Brabant Island, Antarctica. By J. Kimbrey, 91139 Maps: Elephant Island, 77 207 Antarctic Peninsula, 89 100
68
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
74-92
AFRICA 1. Central and South Some new routes in South Africa 1969. By R. Barley, 75 71 Mawenzi - a complete traverse from South to North. By F. Lortscher, 76 138 After Everest. De-acclimatisation climbs in East Africa. By I. Howell, 77 80 Climbing in Rhodesia. By W. Krog, 7786 The North by North-West route on Du Toits Peak. By M. Scott, 7794 The Natal Drakensberg. By R.O. Pearse, 7827 Kilimanjaro: first ascent of the Northern Ice-field. By F. Lortscher, 78 166 Peter Botte's Mountain. By L. Gilbert, 78 161 Toverkop (Witch's Head). By M. Scott, 79 99 Mammals of the East African Mountains. By R. Bere, 79 179 The Cedarbergen. By M. Scott, 81 128 The Ice Desert of Kilimanjaro. By I. Allan, 82 171 Ruwenzori. By J. Cleare, 82 12 A mountaineers' history of Table Mountain. By M. Scott, 83 120 Walking and climbing in Botswana. By A. Mills, 84 38 Climbing in Namibia. By F. Elliott, 84 113 Climbing in Malawi. By R. Crossley & F. Eastwood, 85 69 Modern hard climbing in South Africa. By M. Scott, 85 182 Twenty years of glacier recession on Kilimanjaro. By F. L6rtscher, 8754 South African days. By R. Hinings, 87 109 Through the Ice Window to Nelion. By R. Allen, 91 116 Maps: Rhodesia, 77 89 Drakensberg, 78 129 Table Mountain & Devil's Peak, 83 122 Southern Malawi, 85 68 The Mulanje Massif (Malawi), 8572 2. North In the heart of the Sahara: the Hoggar. By 1. & H. Agresti, 79 103 The Hoggar Mountains. By P. Lucock, 83 43 About Irghil M'Goun and the Bou Goumez. By H. Brown, 84 3 The Ridge of Dreams. By H. Brown, 92 150 AUSTRALASIA (inc. New Guinea & Indonesia) Recent New Zealand developments. By N. von Tunzelmann, 7471 The Dugundugoo. By R. Isherwood, 78 188 Antipodean Ventures. I. Western Australia. By J.G.R. Harding, 7928 Antipodean Ventures. II. The Snowy Mountains. By J.G.R. Harding, 81100 Mountaineering in Indonesia. By H. Ishak, 81 35 Antipodean Ventures. III. Mt. Cook. By J.G.R. Harding, 82 55 The Snow Mountains of Irian Jaya. By H. Collins, 85 118 Mountains and climbs in Tasmania. By R. Rodda, 86 17 Kinabalu - Northern Borneo. By D. Nicol, 90187 Climb High Down Under. By A.S. Hunt, 91 133 Maps: Indonesia, 81 36-7 New Guinea-West Irian, 82242 Tasmania, 86 18 Mount Kinabalu, 90 188
GENERAL INDEX
69
MIDDLE EAST A note on the mountains of Sinai. By J.e. Hawksley, 80 145 Across Zagros on skis. By G. Sheridan, 83 102 Some 4000 metre peaks of southern Iran. By G. Sheridan, 84 187 The Mountains of Wadi Rum. By A. Howard, 91 109 Maps: Zagros Range of SW Iran, 83 103 Peak of South Iran, 84, 188, 191, 193 Wadi Rum, 91 110 FAR EAST: JAPAN, KOREA, TIBET & CHINA Mountaineering in Japan. By I. Yoshizawa, 79 128 A visit to Japan. By H.W.R. Wade, 81 59 Mountains and Mountaineering in South Korea. By K. Jeong-tai, 83 55 The Kongur Massif in Southern Xinjiang (Sinkiang). By M. Ward, 867 Science on Mont Kongur. By M. Ward, 8765 The Mountains of Tibet and the Tibet/China border. By F. Boothman, 8783 Da Xue Shan, Sichuan, China. By H. Day, 87 117 Ski Mountaineering in China. The Ascent of Mustagh Ata. By J. Cleare, 88 29 China's Highest Mountains. By G. Morgan, 8865 Bogdo Ola Group Survey. By S. Kodama, 8870 Mountaineering in China. By E.E. Vaill, 9023 A Mountain in China. By Dora H. de Beer, 9035 Across Tibet. By M. Ward, 91 84 Ulugh Muztagh: The Highest Peak on the Northern Tibetan Plateau. By P. Molnar, 92 104 An Electrifying Experience (on Muztagh Ata). By M. Jardine, 92 117 Maps: Mountains of Japan, 79 130-1 Kongur, 86 10 Da Xue Shan, 87 118 The Chinese Pamirs, 8830 China, 9026-7 Tibet, 91 85 Northern Tibetan Plateau, 92 105 ASIA 1. Himalaya and Karakoram
(a) 8,OOO-ers The first steps towards Mt Everest. By T.S. Blakeney, 7643 Makalu - the first ascent by the SE ridge. By M. Hara & M. Asami, 7635 Annapurna - North face route. By H. Day, 7689 Annapurna South face. By e. Bonington, 76 19 Everest - A Reporter's View. By M. Sayle, 77 116 Manaslu West Wall 1971. By A. Takahishi, 77 26 Thirteen nations on Mount Everest. By J. Cleare, 779 The French expedition to Makalu West ridge 1971. By R. Paragot & others, 78 44 Manaslu 1972. By W. Nairz, 79 15 The first ascent of Yalung Kang. By H. Higuchi, 80 17 Japanese women's expedition - Manaslu 1974. By N. Nakaseko, 8095
70
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
74-92
British Everest Expedition, South West Face 1975. By P. Boardman & R. Richards, 81 3 Victory and Tragedy on Broad Peak. By K. Glasek & J. Ferenski, 82 129 Polish K2 expedition 1976. By J. Kurczab, 838 1978 American K2 expedition. By H. Adams Carter, 84 52 Kangchenjunga South and Central 1978. By M. Malatynski, 85 43 Kangchenjunga North Ridge 1979. By J. Tasker, 8549 The Chilean Karakoram Expedition 1979 (Gasherbrum II). By G. Oyarzun, 85151 The 1979 Spanish expedition to Dhaulagiri I. By R. Bramona, 85 190 The Spanish Expedition towards Central Kengchenjunga 1978. By J. Prunes, 86177
The South Face of Dhaulagiri. By F. Savenc, 88 181 Broad Peak. By K. Palmowska. 89 11 Under the Spell of K2 and Gasherbrum. By K. Deimberger, The East Pillar of Nanga Parbat. By Prof. Dr. H. Koffer, 89 Mount Everest. The First Winter Ascent. By A. Zawada, 89 Five Miles High Without Oxygen. By P. Moores, 8959 A Sortie on Broad Peak. By K. Diemberger, 90 54 Broad Peak Climbed in One Day. By K. Wielicki, 90 61 Everest North Face - A doctor's view. By R. Villar, 90 110 Everest Pre-Monsoon. By S. Martin, 90 113 A Dangerous Day. By M. Duff, 91 76 Everest NE Ridge - The Seligmann Harris Expedition. By R Maps: Annapurna 1970, 7620 Manaslu, 7919 Nanga Parbat, 76221; 8922
89 16
21 50
Faux, 92 92
(b) Nepal
Gurja Hima!: first ascent, 1969. By Y. Yakushi, 75 17 Return to Kanjiroba. By J. Tyson, 75 114 The first ascent of Kangbachen. By K.W. Olech, 8029 Lamjung Hima!. By R. Isherwood, 80 37 Dhaulagiri 2. By F. Huber, 77 168 First ascent of Churen Hima!. By R Yamamoto, 77 105 Attempt on Nampa 6755m. By J. Allen, 77 126 The Hidden Valley. By R. Collister, 79189 Dhaulagiri III. By K. Schreckenbach & P. von Gizycki, 80 198 Rokapi 1974. By A. Kellas, 80 219 Nuptse 1975. By J. Fleming, 81 107 Kanjiroba 1976. By R. Isherwood, 83 37 Avalanche on Sisne - 1977. By RA.L. Anderson, 8373 On foot in Nepa!. By J.K. Longacre, 84 181 Come on lads - its no worse than the MidiPlan (Gauri Sankar S. Peak). By J. Barry, 8639 A Himalayan pass in winter - Tashi Lapcha La. By S. Fraser, 8696 Soldiers on Api. By C. Agnew of Lochnaw, 86 167 Round Annapurna. AC meet October-November 1981. 87 186 Last Virgin in the Khumbu. By W. O'Connor, 8821 Langtang Lirung South Face 1980. By M. Searle, 88 106 Winter on Annapurna IV. By C. Hannigan, 88 177 The Traverse of Kangde Shar. By L. Griffin, 8940 Riders of the Storm. The West Ridge of Thamserku. By M. Duff, 8947
GENERAL
INDEX
71
Annual leave - Ganesh II South Face. By N. Kekus, 9071 The Way to Chulu. By K. O'Connell, 9097 Kusum Kanguru, a Lightweight Expedition. By D. Hopkins, 90 105 Paldor. By H.G. Nicol, 91 78 Sherpas and Skis. By J.A Jackson, 91 101 A Winter Journey through Eastern Nepal. By I. Haig, 91 103 The Other Side of the Mera. By M. Duff, 92 89 Maps: Gurja Himal, 75 17 West Nepal, 75 115 Kanjiroba Himal, 75 117 Makalu 1970, 76 34 Dhaulagiri Group, 76 228 Kangchenjunga (routes to Yalung Kang), 8029 Kanjiroba Himal, 83 38 Tashi Lapcha La, 8697 Langtan-Ganesh-Jugal, 88 109 Kusum Kanguru, 90 106 Chulu, 9098 Paldor, 91 80 Eastern Nepal, 91 104 (c) Karakoram The ascent of K6. By E. Koblmiiller, 76 149 North West Karakoram. By T. Braham, 76 163 Two expeditions to Malubiting. By A Kus & P. von Grzycki, 76 186 The Battle for Kinyang Chhish. By A Kus, 77 21 Malubiting - snow\?eak above desert valleys. By H. Schindlbacher, 7853 Sia Kangri (7422m) 1974 Diary. By W. Stefan, 80 151 Shispare Climbed. The Polish-German Karakoram expedition 1974. By J. Kurczab, 80223 Trango Tower. By J.V. Anthoine, 8145 A Summer in Gilgit (1975) Pt.1. By R. Collister, 82 158 Trango Conclusion. By J.V. Anthoine, 82 184 The British Ogre Expedition 1977. By J.V. Anthoine, 833 A Summer in Gilgit (1975) Pt.II. By R. Collister, 83 64 A hundred days in the Himalaya 1977. Pt.1. Latok II. By P. Nunn, 83 114 Spanish expedition to Saraghrar 1977. By R. Bramona, 83 210 A first ascent of Pruppoo-Brukh (c.7000m). By Japanese Railway Workers Karakoram Expedition, 84 118 Rakaposhi from the North. By S. Kodama, 86 185 British Conway's Ogre expedition 1980. By AV. Saunders, 86 191 British 1980 expedition to Baltoro Kangri. By B. Hall, 86 198 British West Karakoram expedition 1981. By J. Nixon, 87 132 Kanjut Sar West Face. By M. Fujii, 88 179 Oropolitics. By J. Sircar, 89 74 Autumn in Shimshal and Naltar. By S. Venables, 9064 The Second Ascent of the Mustagh Tower. By M. Duff, 90 74 Bojohagar. By M. Fowler, 90 77 The Siachen Indo-British Expedition 1985. By S. Venables & D. Wilkinson, 91 19 The Eastern Karakoram. By H. Kapadia, 91 33 The Scottish Gasherbrum III Expedition. By D. Rubens, 91 41 Excursions and Climbs from the Karakoram Highway. By D. Scott, 9146 The Sosbun Glacier Region. By L. Griffin, 91 49
INDEX
72
TO VOLUMES
74-92
The Alpine Club Karakoram Meet. August 1985. By B. Murphy, 9153 Walking Conway's Great White Roof - the first traverse of Chogolisa. By A. Fanshawe, 92 74 Maps: K6 1969-70, 76 152 N.W. Karakoram, 76162 Malubiting 1969, 76 180 Gilgit, 82 160; 83 65 Thaime Chish, 87 132 East Karakoram, 8976 West Karakoram, 9065 Malangutti Glacier 1984, 90 66 Naltar Region, 90 68 Siachen, 91 22-3 Gasherbrum Group, 91 43 (d) Garhwal Himalaya
Changabang. By D. Scott, 80 155 First ascent of Swargarohini (6247m). By C. Clarke, 80 195 Kalanka 1974. By R. Mear, 8169 Garhwal Himalaya - the Bhillangana Valley. By P. Mould, 82 168 In the steps of Shipton. By P.J. Horniblow, 84 154 A month on Trisu!. By S. Inada, 85 193 The Anglo-Indian Gangotri Sanctuary expedition. By D. Scott & M. English, 873
A short walk in the Pilgun Gad. By G. Cohen, 8779 Bhagirathi III. By R. Barton, 88 49 Kalanka Alpine Style. By N. Kekus, 88 135 Tharkot, an Expedition to the Garhwal. By B. Jones, 90 100 Views on the Gangotri. By M. Moran, 91 57 The British-Indian Police Himalayan Expedition 1986. By L. Hardy, 92 79 Alpine Club Garhwal Meet. Sept-Oct 1986. By A. Greenwood, 9285 Maps: Trisul, 85 195 Nanda Devi Northern Sanctuary, 88 136 Tharcot, 90 101 Gangotri, 91 58 Gangotri W., 92 80 (e) Punjab (Kulu, Lahul, Spiti, Ladakh, Zanskar, Kashmir)
The first Ascent of Mukar Beh. By J. Ashburner, 74 58 First ascent of Ali Ratni Tibba 1969. By F. Harper, 759 First ascent of Parvati Peak. By M. Tremonti, 75 53 Three peaks in Chamba-LahuI1967. By D.H. Challis, 7539 The Kishtwar Himalaya Expedition 1971. By C. Clarke, 77 164 Indrasan West Ridge Expedition 1971. By A. Johnson, 77 34 Excursions to Bara Bangahal and Lahu!. By A. Smythe, 78 179 Himalayan Sojourn. By G. Clark, 78 38 The Army Mountaineering Association Himachal Pradesh Expedition 1973. By J. Fleming, 7921 Parbati South, 1972. By J. Prosser, 79115 Parbati South, 1973. By R. Collister, 79 121 The North of England Himalayan Expedition 1975. By P. Bean, 8283 Schoolboys on Kolahoi. By R. Gilbert, 83 174
GENERAL
INDEX
73
Kishtwar from the other side. By R. Collister, 83206 East Kulu 1977. By P. Bean, 83 149 A hundred days in the Himalaya 1977. Pt.2. Baleful Barnaj. By P. Nunn, 8487 Brammah 1978. By A. Wheaton, 84 103 The first ascent of Dibibokri Pyramid, Kulu 1978. By N. Hewitt, 85 115 The opening of Ladakh - five years on. By M. Dravers, 85 129 Forty-four and a half in the Himalaya. By D. Challis, 85 154 The British Kishtwar Himalaya expedition 1979. By A. Wheaton, 86 181 A winter journey through the Western Himalaya. By G. Sheridan, 87 167 A journey through Zanskar. By I. Haig, 88 139 Over the Kangla Jot. By M. Baldwin, 88165 Kishtwar-Shivling. By S. Venables, 89 30 A traverse of the Kishtwar Himalaya. By A. Hunt, 89 35 Reflections of a First Trip to the Himalaya. By N. Barrett, 9084 Mountains of the Snow Leopard. By S. Fraser, 91 65 Maps: Approach to Mukar Beh, 74 59 Miyar Nullah, 75 38, 42; 85 155 Parvati Peak, 75 54 Siran Peaks, 78 185 Parbati South, 79 120 Ladakh, 85 131 Kang Yisay area, 85 135 East Kishtwar, 89 36 Kishtwar Region, 89 38-9 Ladakh, 91 66 (f) Hindu Kush
Tirich Mir 1969. By H. Day, 7579 Noshaq on skis. By U. Schwabe, 77 110 British Central Hindu Kush Expedition 1971. By R. Scott, 77 170 Ka~han 1972. By W. Stefan, 78 185 ChltraI1971. By W. Stefan, 78 183 Noshaq in Winter. By A. Zawada, 79 11 Hindu Kush - Alpine style. By P.D. Boardman, 79 111 Spanish expedition Hindu Kush 1973. By J.M. Montfort, 79 199 Skhawr 1975. By M. BaJa, 82 210 Mountains of the Thui Gol. By D. Broadhead, 82 115 Wakhan 1977. By L. Griffin, 84 36 The Ascent of Thui II. By N.P. Tritton, 84 58 Anglo-.Polish Hindu Kush expedition 1977. By M. Brniak, 84 137 Kohe Skhawr. By M. Brniak, 84172 Buni Zorn. By R. Isherwood, 85 147 Maps: Tirich Mir, 7579 Hindu Kush Shkurigal Valley, 77170 The Thui Group, 8460 (g) Bhutan and Sikkim
Exploring Bhutan's North-West. By J. Tyson, 83 182 Jannu. By A. Rouse, 85 77 Mountaineering in Bhutan (1). By Capt. M.S. Kohli, 90 18 Mountaineering in Bhutan (2). By P. Mould, 90 21 The Lama and the Laser. Two Years in Bhutan. By N. Barrett, 91 90
74
INDEX TO VOLUMES 74-92
An October Trek in Bhutan. By E. Peck, 91 94 Maps: N.W. Bhutan, 83183 (h) Asia - General articles· Himalaya and Karakoram The Roof of the World from Apollo 7. By T.S. Blakeney, 7565 The Himalayan Ethic - time for a rethink. By D. Gray, 76 156 The Himalaya - Winds of Change. By T. Braham, 7857 The Eastern Himalaya - An Introduction. By M. Ward, 90 10 Multi Peak - Alpine Style. By D. Scott, 90 88 Maps: The Eastern Himalaya, 90 12-13
2. Pamirs Routes leading to Pik Kommunizma. By J. Wala, 78 173 International Meet to Transalai Pamir. July/August 1974. By R. Richards, 80 89 International Alpine Camp, Pamirs 1978. By M. Brniak, 85 83 A Botanical Expedition to the Wakhan Corridor. By C. Grey-Wilson, 8897 Maps: Peak Communism, 78 173 The Jazgulem glacier, 8554 Wakhan Corridor, 88105 3. Mongolia
The Mountains of Mongolia. By J. Baryla & M. Brniak, 86 103 In the Altai. By J. Town, 9047 Maps: Mountains of Mongolia, 86 104-5, 106 Altai Bielukha, 90 50
GENERAL
INDEX
75
GUIDE BOOKS Guidebooks published between 1969 and 1987 and reviewed or noted in Vols. 74-92 British Isles Rockclimbing in the British Isles 1894-1970. A bibliography of guide books. 77264 Sea Cliff Climbing in Britain. 78 253 The Mountains of England and Wales. 79264 England South Devon Climbers Guide. 77 264 Climbing in Cornwall. 79 264 Great Langdale. 79 264 The Kinder Area (Rock Climbs in the Peak Vol. 7). 80276 The Staffordshire Gritstone Area (Rock Climbs in the Peak Vol. 9). 80276 Scafell Group. 80 276 Lundy Rock Climbs. 80 276 Rock Climbing in the Peak District. 81 251 Rock Climbing in the Lake District. 81 251 Chair Ladder and the South Coast. 81 252 The Western Outcrops. 81252 Rock Climbs in Lancashire and the North West. 81252 Ramblers Cheviot. 82 246 Dartmoor. 83 247 Dorset. 83247 Climbs in the South West. 1. Wye Valley. 2. Cheddar. 83248 Borrowdale. 84 244 Rock Climbs in the Peak - Recent Developments. 84 244 Lake District North. 84244 Recent Developments in the Lake District. 84 244 Helsby and the Wirral. 84 244 South West Climbs. 85 235 Rock Climbs in Lancashire and the North West - Supplement. 85235 Rock Climbs - Isle of Man. 85 235 Froggatt Area. 85 235 Devon Rock Climbs. 85 235 Devon New Climbs 1980. 86236 Lundy Rock Climbs. 86 236 Northern Limestone - Rock Climbs in the Peak Vol. 4. 86236 Great Langdale. 86236 North of England: Eden Valley, North Lakes Limestone etc. 86236 Winter Climbs in the Lake District. 86 236 Buttermere and Eastern Crags. 86236 The Peak and Pennines. 89 254 Rock Climbing in the Peak District. 89 254 Cornwall, West Penwith. 90264 Scafell, Dow and Eskdale. 90274 Derwent Gritstone. 91 256 Yorkshire Limestone. 91263 South Devon and Dartmoor. 92 276
76
INDEX
TO VOLUMES
74-92
Lundy Rock Climbs. 92 276 Winter Climbs in the Lake District. 92 277 Swanage. 92 279 Borrowdale. 92 279 Wales
RockcIimbing in Wales. 76316 Snowdon Range. 79 264 The Three Cliffs. 80 276 Central Wales. 80276 Rock Climbing in Wales. 81251 Cwm Idwal. 81 251 Dolgellau Area - Cader Idris & the Rhinog Range. 81 251 Winter Climbs in North Wales. 81 252 Carneddau. 82245 Clogwyn du'r Arddu. 82 246 Climbs on North Wales Limestone. 82 246 Climbers' Club Guides to Wales - 3. Llanberis Pass. 84244 Gogarth. 84244 Tremadog and the Moelwyns. 85 235 Scrambles in Snowdonia. 86 236 Aran-Cader Idris Climbers Guide Supplement 1980. 86 236 North Wales, New Climbs. 89 253 Tremadog. 89 253 The Summits of Snowdon. 90 261 North Wales Limestone 1983. 90 263 A Cambrian Way. 90 267 The Mountains of Wales. 91 261 Scotland
The Cairngorms. 74 381 The Central Highlands. 74 381 Munro's Tables. 75 317 The Islands of Scotland. 77 264 Climbers Guide to the Cairngorms Area. Vol. V. Creag an Dubh Loch, Glen Clova. 77 264 Scottish Climbs. Vol. 1. South and West. Vol. 2. North East. 77 264 The Southern Uplands. 78 254 Rhum. 79264 The Northern Highlands. 81252 The Island of Skye. 82 246 Sea Cliff Climbs in the Aberdeen Area. 84 244 Climbers Guide to Arran. 8S 234 Climbers Guide to the Cairngorms Area. Vol. IV -V. 85 235 Climbers Guide to Ben Nevis. 85235 Rock Climbs in Glen Nevis - Poldubh and other crags. 85 235 Glencoe and Glen Etive - Rock and Ice Climbs. 86 236 Black Cuillin Ridge - Scrambler's Guide. 86 236; 92 278 Scrambles in Skye. 89 253 The Western Highlands. 89253 Creag Dubh and Craig-A-Barns. 89 254 The Central Highlands. 90 265 Munro's Tables. 90 273 North-East Outcrops of Scotland. 91258
GENERAL INDEX
77
Rock Climbs: Glen Nevis and the Lochaber Outcrops. 91260 Scrambles in Lochaber. 91 260 Climbers Guide to the Cairngorms. 91 260 The Southern Highlands. 92 278 Ireland Wicklow Rock Climbs. 82 246 Antrim Coast Rock Climbs. 82 246 Mountaineering in Ireland. 82 246 Mourne Rock-Climbs. 82 246 Irish Walk Guide. 3 - North West. 85234 New Climbs (in Ireland) 1976, 1977 & 1978. 85 234 Bray Head and Minor Crags around Dublin. 85 235 Malinbeg and Other Sea Cliffs. 85 235 Burren Seac1iff. 85 235 Dalkey Rock Climbs. 86 236 Rock-Climbing in Ireland. 91 262 Alps
Selected Climbs in the Bernese Alps. 74 379 artIer Alps. 74 380 Le Massif des E/crins. Vol. 1. Meije-E/crins. 75313 Graians East. Gran Paradiso Area. 75314 Zermatt and District: Alpine Guide II. 75 314 Central Switzerland: Grimsel-Furka-Susten. 75 315 Die Hutten des Deutschen Alpenvereins. 75316 Bernese Alps West. 76317 Karwendel. 77 242 Bregaglia East. 77 242 Kaisergebirge. 77 242 Mountains of the Alps Vol. I. Western Alps. 77242 Berner Alpen III - Bietschorn-Aletschorn. 78 233 Guide du Massif des E/crins. Tome II. 78 233 La Chaine de Mont Blanc. 1. Mt. Blanc-Trelatete. 79253 Ski-Guide to Austria. 79 254 High Level Route. Chamonix-Zermatt-Saas (Ski-mountaineering). 80258 Mittel Switzerland. Lepontine-Ticino-Adula Alps. 80258 Bregaglia West. 80258 Les Aiguilles Rouses. 80 258 La Chaine du Mont Blanc: Aig. Verte-Triolet-Dolent-Argentiere-Trient. Guide Vallot Vol. 3. 81 235 Pennine Alps East. 81 236 Pennine Alps Central. 81 236 Mont Blanc Gruppe. 81 236 Le Massif des E/crins. 82234 Glockner Region. 82 234 Mont Blanc Range. 82 235 Crags of the Swiss Berne Alps. 83 236 Le Massif des E/crins III - Ailefroide, Pelvoux, Bans and Sirac. 84 221 La Chaine de Mont Blanc I - Mont Blanc and Trelatete. 84 222 Bernese Alps Central - BlUmlisalp, Lauterbrunnen, Jungfrau, Lotschental, Baltscheider-Ober Mittelaletsch. 84 222 Masino, Bregaglia, Disgrazia I. 84 222 Mont Blanc Range Vol. II. Chamonix Aiguilles-Rochefort-Jorasses-Leschaux. 84 222
78
INDEX
TO VOLUMES 74-92
Le Mont Viso - Guide d'Escalades. 85219 Bernese Alps East and Bernese Alps West. 85219 Ski Alpin Vol. 3 - Alpes Valaisannes. 85220 Guide Vallot - La Chaine du Mont Blanc IV. 85220 Ski Alpin III: Alpes Valaisannes. 86220 Val Vigezzo (Itinerari Alpini 28). 86 221 Valmalenco Itinerari. Scetti I: Disgrazia-Vazzeda. II: Bernina-Scalino. 86221 Ski Alpinismo in Adamello e Presanella. 86 221 Mont Blanc Range III: Triolet-VerteDrus-Argentiere -Chardonnet-Trient. 86221 Del Lago Segrino a Canzo: Itinerario Geomorphologico,Geologico e Botanico. 86221 Presanella. 86 221 L'Oberland Bernois. 89 250 Le Massif des E/crins. 89 250 Le Grand Paradis et les Vallees du Lanzo. 89250 Ortles Cevedale. Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio. 90 259 Zermatt area including Saas Fee. 90265 High Level Route. 90 265 Mont Blanc, les grandes traces. 90 266 Belles Courses - series of guidebooks listed. 90 268 Adamello Vol. I. 91 255 Haute Randonnee Alpine. 91257 Bergell, Disgrazia, Engadine De Badile a la Bernina. 91 258 Le Massif Central. 91 258 The Kalkalpen Traverse. 92 275 Tour of the Oisans. 92276 A Topo Guide to the Rock Climbs of the Mont Blanc Area. 92 277 ryIercantour Park, Maritime Alps. 92 277 Ecrins Park, Dauphine Alps. 92 278
France
Escalades a Surgy. 80 259 Escalades Fixin Brochon. 80 259 Escalades dans les Alpes de Provence. 81 235 Escalades dans Ie Massif du Luberon-Falaises de Buoux. 81 235 L'Ecole d'Escalade des Eaux Claires. 81 235 Escalades dans Ie Massif de la Sainte-Baume-Bartagne-Beguines. 82234 Guide de Escalades du Baou de Saint-Jeannet. 82235 Escalades en Vallee de I'Anglin - Rochers de la Guignoterie. 83 234 Guides des Montagnes Corses. 83236 Escalades dans les Alpes de Provence - Verdon, Cadieres, Teillon and Aiglun. 84221 Escalades dans Ie Massif de la Saint Victoire-Les Deux Aiguilles Ie Signal. 84 221 En Chartreuse et Vercors - Escalades et Randonnees. 84222 Escalades dans Ie Massif des Calanques. 84 223 Falaises de la Seine - Les Andelys. 85 220 La montagne et Alpinisme 116. 85 220 French Rock Climbs. 86 220 Randonnees Pedestres dans Ie Luberon. 90 263 Gites et Refuges en France. 90 263 Rock Climbing in France. 90 263
GENERAL
INDEX
79
Escalades a Sugiton, Saint Cyr. 90 265 Randonnees Pedestres dans la Sainte-Baume. 91 257 Randonnees Pedestres dans la Sainte-Victoire. 91259 Escalades dans Ie Massif de la Chartreuse. 92 276 Randonnees Pedestres dans Ie Centre Varois. 92278 Escalades dans Ie Massif des Calanques - en Van. 92278 Escalades dans Ie Massif des Calanques - Les Goudes, Saint-Michel. 92 278 Escalades dans la Chaine de l'Etoile. 92 278 Escalades dans Ie Massif du Vercors. 92278
Switzerland
Ecoles d'Escalades Vaudoises. 82235 Kletterfiihrer Klausen - Urnersee. 85 219
Pyrenees and Spain
Pyrenees East - East of Gavarnie Cirque. 81 235 Pyrenees West - West of Gavarnie Cirque. 81235 Walks & Climbs in the Pyrenees. 84 221 Guide des Pyrenees Basques. Promenades-Ascensions-Escalades. 84222 Pyrenees, Andorra, Cerdagne: A Guide to the Mountains for Walkers and Climbers. 86 220 Randonnees et Ascensions choises dans Ie Parc National des Pyrenees Occidentales et ses Environs. 86 221 Randonnees dans les Pyrenees Ariegeoises. 86 221 Sierra Nevada: Itinerarios de Esqui de Monten. 86 221 Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees. 89254
80
INDEX
TO VOLUMES 74-92
Dolomites
Dolomites West, Dolomites East. 76313 Excursioni in Val d'Ansiei - Le Dolomiti di Amonzo di Cadore. 84222 Alta Via - High Level Walks in the Dolomites. 92 275 Norway
Walks and Climbs in Romsdal. 76315; 84222 Klatref~rer for Norge (Climbing guides to Norway). 80258 Greenland
The Staunings Alps. 78 253 Italy
Rocca Sbarua e Monte Tre Denti. 81 236 Scalate nelle Grigne. 82 235 Alta Via No.7 - delle Prealpi Bellunesi e dell'Alpago. 84222 Valmalenco. 84222 Gran Sasso. Le piu belle ascensioni dal 3 al 7 grado. 92 278 Yugoslavia
Alpes Juliennes. 81 236 Julian Alps. 84 222 Greece
Meteora Felsen - Nordgreichland. 83 234 The Mountains of Greece. A Walker's Guide. 92 276 Greece on Foot. Mountain Treks. Island Trails. 92 277 North America
American Alpine Club Climbers Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia. 78250 White Mountain Guide. 78250 A Climber's Guide to Seneca Rocks, West Virginia. Cascade Climbing Guide: Climbing and High Routes: Columbia River and Stevens Pass. 79 257 Shawangunk Rock Climbs. 79 257 A Tourist Guide to Mount McKinley. 80 268 Climbers Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada - North. 81 244 Alpine Guide to South Western British Columbia. 81244 Rock climbing in Ontario. 81244 Rock Climbs in Yosemite. 81244 Climbing Mount Whitney. 81244 Shades of Blue (Guide to ice-climbing in New England). 83242 A Climbers Guide to Joshua Tree National Monument. 83242 Alpine Guide to Southern British Columbia. 84 236 A Climbers Guide to Devil's Tower National Monument. 84236 Climbers Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia. 84 236 A Climbers Guide to Yamnuska. 84 236 Yosemite Climbs. 84 236 Climbers Guide to Yosemite Valley. 84236 A Climbers Guide to Smith Rocks, Beacon Park and Steins Pillar. 85 228 A Climbing Guide to Colorado's Fourteeners. 85 228
GENERAL INDEX
81
Cascade Alpine Guide - Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass. 85 228 Parios d'Escalade au Quebec. 85 228 Cathedral, Humphreys and Whitehorse: a Rock Climbers Guide. 85 228 Climbers Guide to Devil's Lake. 85 228 Rock - The Climbers Guide to Palisades - Kepler State Park. 85 228 A Climbing and Hiking Guide to the Wind River Mountains. 86 231 Climbers Guide to the Olympic Mountains. 86231 Climbers Guide to the Kankakee River State Park. 86231 Devil's Tower National Monument. A Climbers Guide. 92277 South America
Guia de Excursionismo para la Cordillera de Santiago. 83 246 Nievesy Riscos Meridefios. 83 246 The Southern Cordillera Real. 84 241 Guide to the Peruvian Andes. Part I. Cordillera Blanca and Rosko. 84 242 Practical Guide and Routes of Ascension on Mount Aconcagua. 86 234 Peruvian Trail Guides: Cordillera Blanca North; Cordillera Central; Cordillera Huayhuash. 86 234 The Southern Cordillera Real - Mountaineering and Ski-ing in Bolivia. 86 234 Reise und Trekkingfiihrer fur Bergsteiger. 86 234 Trails of the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash of Peru. 86 234 Backpacking in Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador. 86234 Backpacking and Trekking in Peru and Bolivia. 86 235 Backpacking in Chile and Argentina plus the Falkland Islands. 86 235 Trails of the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash of Peru. 90 266 Die Scheeberge Ecuador. 90 273 Por Los Andes del Ecuador. 90 273 Africa
Mountains of Kenya. 75 316 Guide to the Ruwenzori, the Mountains of the Moon. 78236 Guide Book to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro. 78 237 Guide to the Mulanje Massif. 85 221 Atlas Mountains Morocco. 86 224 Himalaya
Zwischen Munjan und Bashgal (Hindu Kush). 74380 The Himalaya: An Illustrated Summary of the World's Highest Mountain Ranges. 75317 Trek the Himalayas. 91 257 The Himalayas. Playground of the Gods. 91 257 Mount Everest. Massiv Nord. Himalaya - Handbuch Band 1. 92 277
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